Whitney Boland on Ozone at the Gunks. 2015/12/12

[@louismpalumbo1972]

I learn a lot about climbing every time I watch this video. Thank you for posting. (I was pissed when you fell! )
That was a fight.

[@Decepticon123]

Dammit! 😢

[@Yarrownew9759]

Truly and amazing effort! Also, holy cow, what an aesthetic line! I’m not sure I’ll ever be to the point of climbing something like that, but I’d love to visit the Gunks someday.

[@louismpalumbo1972]

WOOOOOOOWWW ! Good for you man . . . INSPIRATION ! Thank you.

[@mattdhurley]

that was insane, and so awesome

[@bonefishboards]

I aided Twilight Zone in the winter, like 30 years ago. There was one shitty fixed pin on the traverse. Looks like a lot more gear now. I might have to go back and do it again :)

[@okzsub949]

The Gunks only sport line!

[@ronnance]

Heck yeah, Whitney! We miss seeing you crushing in Chatty. Nice work!

[@ronnance]

Btw-I’m sharing this vid with my climbing team as a model for milking rests & thoroughly shaking out before entering pumpy cruxes.

[@Samson518]

Amazing

[@civedm]

Once you fell, wwere you lowered or did you hop your way back up?

[@dustinko2439]

It looks like very difficult.
Can you let me know degree about this route?

[@jwplotz]

what a fascistic looking route and effort! Edit out the 7 minutes of shaking out, and you have a really cool video!

[@everythingviral972]

And what good did the shaking out do her? See my comment above for my feelings on shaking out on overhangs, if you care that is of course.

[@Mike_Sigety]

is she a super human or is that a typical climb for a AA climber? amazing either way

[@gtluke]

she's super human. It's one of the hardest traditional/natural climbs in the world. I believe only 4 people have ever completed it ever.

[@johns3106]

@luke kelly Can you really call it a trad climb when every piece of pro is pre-placed?

[@everythingviral972]

@@johns3106 No. It is a sport climb.

[@everythingviral972]

@@gtluke It's a sport climb.

[@johns3106]

@EverythingViral Well...it's really some kind of mutant hybrid....you're still working with the pro the rock "allows" you to use, rather than popping in bolts at convenient intervals.

[@everythingviral972]

What's with all the pre-placed gear? Pre-placed gear reduces a climb to a sport route. This is a cool sport route.

[@mrmott44]

All climbs are sport climbs unless you’re on a military or rescue mission.

[@mynillywita9milli]

@@mrmott44 what about trad dingus

[@Lukemarcoon13]

she was just working the route at this point in time

[@everythingviral972]

I've never been a big proponent of trying to shake out on overhangs, it's simply my opinion that it is a waste of energy. Unless I can take ALL of my weight off of my feet, I just blast through the moves as fast as possible, almost running up the route.
Just ask yourself if the position you're trying to rest in, is a position that costs you energy. Even though it's easier, if you were to hypothetically start off in said position, and stayed there indefinitely, wouldn't you eventually fall off? If the answer is yes, then you are just burning more energy, better to just blast through the beta. It's just what has worked for me.
I've noticed a lot of people like to climb really slowly, and I don't see the value in it. I mean, maybe it looks cool, but it only stands to reason that the less time you are on each hold, the less energy you expend. There is a great video of Ondra that has a little message at the beginning of the video telling you that the footage you are about to see has not been sped up. He does what I advocate; he flied through the route until he can find a kneebar, he doesn't climb in slow motion so he can look strong.
Climb fast.

[@CtHtThomas]

All elite climbers shake out on steep jugs, Ondra included. They can indeed rest there effectively indefinitely, probably for over an hour. You cannot jog for 4 hours in a row but a jog still might be good recovery after a short sprint.
Ondra also has quotes about climbing efficiently, according to whatever "efficient" means for that particular climber. For lots of people, slow and static is efficient (using optimal energy moving between holds at the cost of a bit more energy staying on the holds).

[@ieatno0bs]

Lol spotted the gumby that thinks he knows more about climbing hard than someone that's climbing a fucking 14a. Can't escape from these guys, they just see a girl climber and have some sort of superiority complex even though the girl is clearly way outta their league

[@Yarrownew9759]

Cool story bro. We were all so interested in hearing your opinion on the matter.

[@everythingviral972]

@@Yarrownew9759 Just trying to help you weaklings.

[@ryannelling2990]

That's cool man please let us know when you post the video of your attempt on this route so we can see how that works