SIMPLE Homemade Metal Melting Furnace (Foundry) for metal casting - by VOGMAN
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ม.ค. 2016
- A simple homemade Metal Foundry for casting metals at Home! Melt soda cans, recycle metal and cast in aluminium in your backyard. Use it as a mini forge...
Here I make a stable, high temperature home metal foundry to work alongside my waste oil burner, for melting and recycling various metals for other projects. Using dedicated dense, castable Refractory mix that’s capable of withstanding temperatures up to 1700 degrees Celcius (3092 Fahrenheit). This home metal foundry makes use of recycled materials, is easy to build, very affordable, is strong and stable and can easily be customised to suit your needs.
Most home made foundry designs use 50/50 sand and plaster of paris, but this mix is just too weak. It crumbles and disintegrates too easily and I got fed up of repairing mine. This dense refractory isn’t exactly concrete, but it’s MUCH harder than this 50/50 mix and should stand up to years of use, especially if supported in a firm containing frame as I’ve done here.
Once complete, the foundry is very heavy and not easily moved, so I mounted mine on castors for easy movement.
This build is inspired by Grant Thompson (King of Random) and Myfordboy. These are mentioned in this video and I would recommend viewing their tutorials. My thanks to them for their sterling work.
See my web page on this subject here:
www.vegoilguy.co.uk/metal_fou...
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#metalcasting
#vegoilguy
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You have put this video together very well! Things I like include:
1. Thumbnail of finished product.
2. Concise instruction for each step of the process.
3. Video to match each step of your process.
4. The "why" to do things a certain way, to prevent others from making your mistakes.
5. Your voice-over matched the steps!
Great and awesome work!
You're very kind 😁
WOW!! I see me watching this hundreds of times before finishing my build...THANK YOU!!
One of the best and most professional homemade foundries I have seen to date. Brilliant!
+Edgar Whyte
That's very kind. Thanks.
In preparation for making my own foundry I’ve watched at least 200 videos. Sir you have done so well here! Firstly your voice is awesome and you are concise without any ramblings. This is the best Instructional video yet I will definitely make sure all my friends see this thank you so much.!
Thanks for Sharing, you showed like you been doing these experience and understanding how this works.
It's amazing how good some of you forge builders are and you are one of the good ones
It's an easy project really. Just add water : )
I'm glad you mentioned who you looked after
I like the simplicity of you design. Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
It actually saved me some $ building my own. Thanks for the tips and guide to building it. 🙌
Hi Geoff Just came across your metal foundry video now. excellent video, factual, down to earth simple explanation on the design philosophy and build. really enjoyed this, thank you so much for sharing your great skills. Thanks & greetings from Ireland.
I'm only half way through watching this and it's easily the best video I've watched on this subject. Planning to build my own very soon and have watched plenty of other videos, this video is going to be my primary guidance. Many thanks!
That's very kind. Just remember the one thing missing from this video is external insulation - but I cover that in other videos 😁
Okay great will do, thanks again ;)
Thanks for making this video helped me out a lot ! :)
I haven't seen that foundry at work,but it's a whole lot more sturdy,than most. I need to put one of my own together. Thanks for the video!
Hi Jim. Trust me, it's fabulous. It must be coming up to a couple of years old now and it's still just as good as the day it was cast. I did make the mistake of not insulating the base and the whole thing needs a good insulation wrap. Look out for my Plaster Insulation video. With that included, it's been an excellent, sturdy but cheap foundry : )
I like this build better than all the rest I've seen. Actually pretty simple and to the point. I built one but mixed my own with cement perlite and silica sand. it was messy and time consuming. After about a couple of dozen lights it became too brittle and started falling apart. I'm going to try your build see how that comes out. Thanks.
Joe
San Diego, CA USA
Cool video. Alot of improvements that I was looking for. You sir earned yourself a lifetime subscriber.
Hi Javier. Thanks very much. I appreciate it : )
Thanks great tutorial I had no issue with the volume clear as every other video
Many thanks Lawrence
Part of the reason your food tin gave you trouble coming out of the lid were the ribs stamped in its' side, coupled with the refractory expanding as it cured, locked it right in place for you.
Will it work for metals?
Great video thank you. Brilliant instructions!
Glad you enjoyed it! 😁
Love grant Thomson. Sorry to hear of his passing
Whoever it is that took over his channel sent it straight to the gutter. Sure, it still gets views. But the content is garbage and not NEARLY on the same level as grant.
Grant: how to make metal foundry
New people: how many gummy worms does it take to clog a toilet, or some shit
Well explained
very nice build. i have learned alot from this video that will help me for my foundry build.
I'm pleased to hear that. Thanks.
Very interesting. Yeah. I have built a charcoal foundry, but I think a gas foundry is the way forward for me.
great vid, this is going to help me lot for making my first foundry. You got my thumbs up for sure, thankyou
Glad to help Bob : )
Brilliant video thanks for posting
Thanks for a great video will be most useful,I like the sub titles as they make sure the message is clear.Well done that man!!
+allen gentz
Many thanks.
Being hearing impaired I really appreciate when a person actually types the CC instead of letting the computer do it! Thank you
That is a great furnace 👍🏻
Very good, 8 have been looking for this video for awhile.
Glad I could help : )
I have a friend that gives me water heaters. Im going to make a foundry out of one using your instrutions. Anybody could follow them. Great video. You just got a new subscriber. Happy new year to you and your family.
Very well presented!!!!!
Thanks Robin : )
Nicely done!
Nice work, I just may well copy it, as is a convenient Chippy at the top of my road. Possibility of cooking oil cans and used oil in the same place.
As an addition, just looked through your other projects, I like some of them to have a go at. I have subbed.
That's great news Mark. Welcome aboard.
You're sounding British (?) so I'll paste an answer below I've just sent to another casting newbie : )
It's a great hobby and amazingly useful. Sure here you see me casting knives and coins, but there are far more "real" applications like brackets, gears, even art, but these can make boring videos. However, casting can allow you to make stuff engineering companies normally produce.
If you've never tried casting at all, make a "plaster" foundry. If you look up King Of Random Mini Metal Foundry you'll see how easily Grant makes a foundry using plaster of Paris. That's a bit pricey in large quantities here in the UK, so try Bonding (plaster) and sharp (concrete) sand for a really cheap UK mix.
Three recommendations for you:
1) Make a temporary foundry like King of Random but using the recipe I've mentioned above and in no.3 video (below)
2) If you're sure it's for you, buy castable refractory and make your own as I do here - th-cam.com/video/n42t3M1fOyY/w-d-xo.html - just one tip, we all make our first foundry too small, so get an idea of the crucible size you want before you build. Treat my video as a demo, not a bible... make things to suit YOU.
3) The refractory needs exterior insulation and this can be done very cheaply with a plaster and sand mix as seen here -
th-cam.com/video/T1Mxg4EVh98/w-d-xo.html (you can also build a cheap, temporary plaster foundry with the mix mentioned - see point 1).
In the videos / descriptions you should find links and products you'll find a large DIY stores (Wickes, Homebase, etc, as well as smaller building suppliers).
Any questions, etc, drop me a line : )
A leaf blower is great for making a huge flamethrower. I setup a burn barrell for the kids. I used a 44 gallon drum in half.i drilled 50mm holes around 100mm up from the bottom. I did harden my machete but a lot of firewood behind my property. Old trees on the ground.
For the folks in the states specifically the Midwest, Menards sells a 25lb bucket of refractory cement and it’s just enough to do the king of random way with a 2 inch bottom.
Just did mine. Curing it currently. Can’t wait! Thanks for the vid vegoilguy
Thanks for sharing that helpful tip : )
How's it holding up?
I got 2 buckets of the Menards refractory cement... just need to get my furnace built
Well done
Awesome tutorial! Subbed and liked. 🙂👍👍👍❤
I was so excited when I finished my foundry based on Grant's model. Unfortunately it did crumble but I had a great time building it, and I made a decent ingot with it. I'm going to be giving your design a shot and I'm excited.
Hi, did you try it? How did it go?
Great video
great vid!!
Fantastic job
Many thanks : )
This is great! I have found my instruction manual for my furnace build. :-)
Cheers...
Glad to help Gary : )
Very nice job!
Many thanks : )
Thank you by the video!
Thanks
Best I've seen
Thanks Mike
Great video, and really useful to have some details of a UK supplier. Thanks.
Many thanks : )
Nice job!
Thanks Tom : )
I wish I had your tools and skills haha, I need to make a furnace or buy one ahha
Thank you for this. This is one of the best looking diy's i've seen. I love that you reinforced the drum with the other two seams.
Glad it was helpful!
I liked the build and I'm sure I'll t
Have to build one now, good job, but I had a lot of trouble hearing you
A ducting crimper will easily shrink the edge of the bottom barrel so the top will easily slide over it. Big box hardware stores have them cheap.
Excellent suggestion Robert. Thanks!
This is the most helpful foundry tutorial I have found yet, I have been looking for ideas on the subject for months now. I tried The King Of Randoms design but it fell apart and was to small. I have some good ideas now and intend to try again soon.The fuel has been the hardest part to come up with. I now have a useful plan thank you for taking the time to put together an informative and useful video on the subject.
Thanks. Good luck with your build : )
nice build
+Widget Lover
Many thanks
Hope people use steel rivets :-)
Although even if they were aluminium I guess they won't get hot enough to melt, being that they are outside the refractory. Great Video by the way! I've watched this and some of your other videos a few times over the past several years. I had some injuries and wasn't able to do much for two years, but I'm really looking at beginning a foundry build soon. Been saving up aluminium for 5 or 6 years now (bags of cans, cast aluminum scrap, and etc) have a good amount that I can recycle. Thanks for your Vids!
Thank you for sharing. This is one of the best tutorials I’ve seen How much refractory cement did you use? It looked to be (2) fifty pound bags. If I make one a bit on the larger side what would be the drawbacks?
I'd say your guess was a good one : )
And larger? Not really. But remember bigger areas will heat slower and require more heat to do so. I'd recommend making it as small as you can get away with and insulate well.
just rewatched Goeff, great vid thank you. I wanted to see how you mixed up the refractory (it looks like we have a similar brand). I'm hoping to put refractory in my foundry today... at last! Horray! cheers o/ #edit... Coco is very cute!
Castree Kilns was where I got mine. I think I mentioned it in the video. And yes, just add water and stir : )
And Cocoa is a pleasure to have around. Whoever said, "It's a dog's life" meaning things are a struggle clearly didn't meet my pampered pooch who gets spoiled rotten by everyone.
haha dogs are the best :) ahh yes! same place i got mine, total bargain!
Hi is fire brick same substance as Hebel block? It cuts with a handsaw. It feels like a really coarse pumice stone? In Australia I can't find fire bricks? Unless I order a pallet! Lol. Cheers from Australia just subbed.nice work love it! 🙂👍👍👍
I made a whole I hid under the crucible riser block so that if my crucible ever fails all the metal will drain out the bottom of my refractory and hopefully saving it from a bottom full of molten metal
Nice build, where did you purchase the crucible? I'm still using a steel crucible and not sure how long it will last.
Although my plan is to build a small foundry, your detail works well for me. Especially the detailed information on the refractory mix. I want something that will last beyond one or two melts. Nice job!
By the way is it best to buy or make a crucible ?
Thanks for your kind words Tom.
I would recommend you think carefully about insulation before you build - that's the only fault with this build. The foundry itself is still in excellent shape (no crumbling walls, etc).
I'm revisiting the issue of insulation right now so do look out for a new video in a few weeks.
As for crucible, it depends on what you have to hand, what your heat source is and what you're looking to melt. Steel works fine with gas / oil / electrics but tends to get eaten by charcoal / coal... at least that's my experience.
Personally I tend to buy to crucibles. They're generally cheap enough on eBay and long lasting too.
Hope this helps.
Best wishes,
Geoff
To increase the temperature you could add an oxygen port and oxygen tank and regulator
Thanks for the instructions, very neat. What's the thickness of the walls? Also, have you considered putting some kind of high temperature insulation between the barrel and the refractory mix?
+Piotr Sarnacki
Hi Piotr, thanks for the kind comments.
The walls are approx 50mm (2 inch).
And insulation? Yes, that's a must. I hoped to get away with it but no. I do have a video on the subject underway.
Best wishes,
Geoff
Do you have the full detentions for this? I mainly want to know how big does the inside cavity need to be (I guess the size of the paint can), and how thick are the walls? Looks like a bit over 2 inches.
i gotta say its great to have a consistant speed naration and quality things for the average guy..im just starting out building my own foundry and belt grinder (bench sander) with a electric drill as the motor as i have a limited space on my outdoor topstory balcony..gonna be funny when i start slamming 1 smaller shedge hammer in2 a bigger1..itl be a manuaul run bupushing down with a counter weight till i can save enough from knife and sword making to upgrade and use my smaller1 as a smelting foundry
As long as it makes you happy, it's worth it : )
I love it. How to use now?
Thank you for all the tips, now i understand why my furnace walls crumbled (using Grant's 50/50 formula)
Thanks.
Grant's is an excellent design, but it's not really suitable for regular use.
Best wishes,
Geoff
Hello Veg... love your videos... absolutely amazed, me and my dad where think of also going to make grant's design, however we also found floors in his plane...
I was just wondering what size crucible you were using, because we were having troubles finding the right size.. thank you very much
Definitely subscribing!!!
Hi Tristan, Thanks for the kind comments.
I don't consider myself an expert foundry worker... I just enjoy dabbling, so I try to keep costs down where I can. I got my crucibles on eBay. These are the guys I used...
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Graphite-furnace-casting-foundry-crucible-melting-tool-1-2-4-6-8-10-12-14-16-kg-/111639076142?var=&hash=item19fe351d2e
I'm pretty sure my largest is a 6kg crucible which I believe holds a little over a litre. That's more than big enough for my projects and it fitted nicely into the foundry (you see it in the video). I tend to do most of my work with a very tired looking 2kg (you can see that on the Copper Melt video).
If you're new to foundry work, don't spend too much too soon. You can spend thousands and if you're doing top notch work like myfordboy it's probably worth it (I imagine he charges a nice penny for those engines he builds). Me I just make brackets, cogs and anything else that takes my fancy.
Hope this helps.
Best wishes,
Geoff
Add steel wool for added strength
I have to say, this didn't really work for me. The structure held, sure, but the face still crumbled and with each use, the situation gets worse. BUT it is an improvement of P of P alone and is still a face and very cheap solution, ideal for those trying the hobby for the first time.
Subbed, belled, and thumbed!
It's great, I would have saved my time, and just got a sturdy new steel can though. Castors had me a little concerned, but you have used lockable ones.
The weight and the lockable castors do the trick nicely. Plus it saves my back whenever I want to much it : )
I do not know anything about making a furnace but I am very interested in the video and would like to make an attempt at making one myself.I do have some experience of working with making items in mass concrete and I suggest coating the plastic can in oil and then rolling several layers of aluminium foil around it.This should make it easier to remove even BEFORE the the cast has fully hardened.Similarly for the tin used in the "chimney".Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for your suggestion.
You're right, the foil would have made things easier : )
We live and learn.
Best wishes
Geoff
liked and subscribed mate, bank's got me along with a lot of others who were almost making, you know how the US financial system works, if you don't know the right people you get fucked, I lost over 6 million that I invested and reinvested, building homes in the summer, teaching the rest of the year.....painful loss, I don't have any of anything that I used to have laying about in me shop but they made me take a tiny house in a shitty neighborhood....my son's buying up everything he can so he can smelt, precious metals and cupel out the bismuth or lead but he likes to do this stuff, which is nice for him cause he's broken but he can work maybe a week or 2. a month prospecting so now it's winter up north he figures it's time to do the warmer parts of the process.... thanks mate
I still left a like but was very disappointed not to see some footage of it working at the end.
Watch a few more videos. It shows up now and then 😁
Great video! did you mix any pearlight in with your refractory mix? or would it need it
Hi Joe. Thanks for your comments. I only added what was in the mix. There's lots of recipes out there and mine is unlikely to be the best, especially as this was only my second ever attempt. But we all live and learn : )
Best wishes
Geoff
Is it worth adding perlite to the refractory cement?
Hello. That was a very nice job. do you have an idea hos heavy it is compared to a foundry made with bricks and KoWoll? thanks.
I can't give you numbers as I don't know them, but from lightest to heaviest... wool, firebrick, refractory mix : )
Are you on Alloy Avenue?
Great video. I'm a chronic recycler/reuser myself, and i truly enjoyed your project. When it comes to refractory cement, there's no better option. My current furnace is a mix of perlite, sand, bentonite & mortar. It's okay for solid fuels, but now that I'm using propane, a rebuild is coming soon.
Sybscribed.
Hi Frank,
I'm not on Alloy Avenue but I have heard good things about it. A few of my subscribers have talked about in the past. I'm no casting expert - just a happy amateur who likes to play. Hopefully in a few weeks I'll have a lost foam casting video to share with you... this follows on from the wooden sprockets video.
Thanks for subscribing. Remember I'm always open to video requests and will try to help where I can - but I think with Alloy Avenue you're already in good hands : )
Best wishes
Geoff
What is the size /capacity of your crucible, please?
What type of concrete did you use again? The video is awesome by the way! Could I use a Grant Thompson design with that type of concrete? Do you think it would work many times before needing replacement?
Hi Armaan,
Thanks for the kind comments.
I used a Refractory product that is designed especially for this purpose and you can see where and what I purchased here - www.castreekilns.co.uk/dense-castable-1700c-25kg-bag-869-p.asp
This material is designed the withstand high temperatures and remain stable for long periods so in theory in shouldn't need replacing for a good length of time.
I don't think you could apply Grants technique of plunging a small bucket into a big bucket to displace the central content. That works with plaster as it goes off in seconds. The Refractory goes off in hours so you'd be waiting a long time plus I believe it's recommended that you don't add too much water to the product... add as little as possible to make it workable is the approach I understand.
I hope this helps.
Best wishes,
Geoff
QUESTION ? COULD YOU HAVE PUT A (LIGHT COAT) OF OLIVE OIL OR COOKING OIL ROUND THAT THIN METAL ring AND the plastic container ring, may have helped getting them out easier, would it hurt the mold wall? That did come out very nice, good idea on the wheels, you should make Like atleast 10 & sell them❤
im looking at using propane for my furnace fuel. do you think there is an ideal air gap between outside edge of crucible and inside edge of furnace for flame to vortex?
thanks
Hi Dan. Thanks for your question.
I think there may well be the perfect spacing and shape to encourage the vortex effect you're describing. Unfortunately I don't think it could be easily figured out without the sort of technology your average guy has.
Still, it's nice to try...
If you have any luck, let me know : )
Best wishes,
Geoff
Sodium silicate instead of water. Vacuum bubble extraction. Using paper for liner's & leaving the handle part's of the lid ROUND:-P
can I melt all sorts of metals in this? please help me with the refractories which I can use to melt all types of metal.
I have a couple of questions for my maiden voyage. what kind of container are you actually melting the aluminum in or any metal for that matter. I have a fire extinguisher and an old small propane cylinder. both can be used for any project and just have to cut the tops off. thanks for your help
Hi Kate. I use a crucible purchased from eBay. They vary in price and as I'm not a professional I went for the cheaper end and these have served me fine.
Steel containers are commonly used (especially by newbies - I know I did) and will serve you fine. You might keep them forever (some do). It can be dependent on your fuel. Gas and Oil are more forgiving, but charcoal etc tends to 'eat' at the steel container. This happens anyway, regardless of the fuel (the steel starts to flake) but can happen in a single occasion if the foundry is too hot. That happened to my my first time.
The trick is not to expect too much at first. Just try it, see what happens and remember that every time it gets easier and more manageable - but never safer! Always be careful and stay safe : )
I think you are professor of making excellent, classic tutorial videos. The subtitles are very good idea for those who have problems with understanding of oral narration - this way it is sure even they do not miss any important information.
As you shown, you had problems by removing of burner although you wrapped it in cling foil. Next time try to wrap it in double side silconized baking paper. You should use at least two but better if three layers, wich are independent from each other. Silcone gives actually some lubrication between layers and makes easier to remove the tuyere pattern. This is just an idea, I have not tryed, but I suppose it works.
Hi Nomadpek. Thanks for the kind comments and the excellent suggestion.
I recently insulated the foundry and had the same problem... luckily this time I wrapped the burner with the metal from an ordinary soda can. It worked brilliantly.
Take care and all the best.
Geoff
Hi Geoff. What do you recommend as wall thickness of foundry without insulation? At bottom it is 50 mm in video, but at sides it seems to be more, even 100 mm?
Hi Nomadpek. If you're going to use proper refractory, be guided by the manufacturers. They know best : )
Personally I had 50mm all around... it might look thicker on the walls, but it's just an optical illusion.
Some refractorys can be applied thinner than this, that's why it's best to ask, but if in doubt, 50mm PLUS insulation is a reasonable guide.
Best wishes,
Geoff
Hi i am just getting into blacksmithing and i was wanting to start casting steel for knifes and a couple if other things . I just got a ton of ceramic molds from a friend in wich i can custom cut my molds or use the already existing ones. I was wondering what type of crucibke i need as well as anything else i should know about the casting of steel?
Knives tend to be forged from steel, rather than cast. Crucibles to handle those kind of temperatures tend to be extremely expensive. Those that you see cast are usually made from aluminium, so they are replicas only. That sort of crucible can easily be found on eBay, Amazon, etc.
Im super late to the party here but i find it very difficult to get my hands on a can/drum like you used here. Are there any good alternatives for a foundry this size. I saw a few ideas with propane/gas cylinders.
Hi Alex. You don't really need the drum. It's basically a mould. You could use plastic sheeting and achieve the same ends. The refractory forms like concrete so it becomes a solid shape, allowing you to remove the plastic once it's set.
Aside from water, why didn't you use sodium silicate? A few months back, I made a refractory for a friend much similar to your concept, but without knowing your video existed. By the way, I subscribed because you have a practical sense of thinking, I admire that. I'll be coming back here for references and such. Keep pushing forward.
Hi Jomar.
I never claim to be an expert my friend, I just like showing my personal experiments and experiences. I hope in doing so I might help a few folks out along the way (even if it's telling them what NOT to do). There's so much about the foundry process I simply don't know and, in truth, you're sodium silicate tip is one of them, so thanks for sharing. As and when I improve, I will share.
Thanks for getting in touch - and for subscribing : )
Geoff
Hello everybody, what kind of crucible you recommend to smelt iron or steel? Thanks in advance
How long has this foundry lasted.
Great job sir! I am considering making one of these foundries or an electrical one, do you have any idea how much propane gas it is needed to melt say 1kg of aluminum?
Thanks for the kind words. This is a nice easy build and well worth the moderate investment in refractory.
As for how much gas, there's just too many variables... how much gas the torch is consuming, how much heat it's giving out, the insulating qualities of the foundry (very important that - see my video on the subject before you build -th-cam.com/video/T1Mxg4EVh98/w-d-xo.html ), the ambient temperature, the purity of the aluminium, etc, etc.
In short it becomes a "how long is a piece of string" type question.
I think gas is a good way to go as it's very controllable. If you can get hold of used (waste) veg oil, this is typically free and can make a very effective free, environmentally friendly heat source.(I made a really simple one of these here - th-cam.com/video/vQzuNOBOPOs/w-d-xo.html). I tend to use both gas and oil, raising the foundry to an ideal temperature fairly quickly with gas then switching to free oil for the duration. This keeps the costs down nicely.
Sorry I can't be more specific. I hope the above helps a little.
Good luck and play safe : )
Geoff
Thank you so much Geoff. I will check the links you sent me.
Really good I'm going to do the same, if lcould add you need too increase your recording 😀 volume
small suggestion for an easier removal of the paint can:before u place it inside the furnace,place around the paint can around the external side some pizza box paper or something similar and fix it on the can with something like insulating tape or similar.
place the can with pizza box around well fixed to the can inside the furnace and start pouring the refractory cement .
day after u will have a slightly easier life on pulling out the can from foundry.
Thanks Ludo. Always good to have input.
There's more than one way to do just about anything and it's by sharing these ideas we get the method that's best for us : )
great effort. i'm just about to turns
Many thanks : )
Hiya fella, told you that you have got me interested in this stuff! Quick question mate. I don't have an oil drum like this (could prob get one without too much effort though I guess), what I do have is one of the small calor gas tanks, the same type used for home heaters etc. Would this be any good do you think? The valve was removed some 12 months ago and it has been filled with water many times, so gas and vapour wouldn't be an issue by now (although I will fill it with water again). So what's your view buddy yes? No? Let me know what you think. Cheers fella.
Good man! Another casting buddy. Just what we need.
Okay... my advice... try it first. Look up King Of Random Mini Metal Foundry and build that. It's amazingly easy and cheap... and it falls apart after about three uses, but it will tell you whether it's for YOU. If it hooks you, build a better foundry.
Next, IF you're convinced, decide what sort of things you're going to cast. Why? Because everybody builds their first foundry too small and it's so annoying : )
And that's the answer to your question about the container... it really doesn't matter what you use. You could use cardboard - honestly. The refractory is where the strength is.
But if you can only fit a tiny crucible in your foundry, you won't be able to cast much.
A big foundry can cope with a small crucible, but not the other way around.
But like I say, try it first. And any more questions, don't hesitate to ask : )
VegOilGuy
Thanks for the reply and the info fella. I have seen King of Random and I know the foundry that you mean.... The one he made in the bucket. Yes, good advise my friend about try it first and I will do just that. I live in Birmingham and I know That you don't live too far away. Maybe a coffee sometime if you could manage to spare the time fella. Thanks again for the info and I'll stay in touch either way mate.
There you go. I always had you you down as an American. You just seem to slot in timewise with a number of my US subscriber buddies. Well plaster of Paris here in the UK is a bit expensive in those quantities, so head over to Wickes etc and buy a bag of Bonding (plastering) and Sharp Sand. You'll have enough to make two there. Have a look at this video... th-cam.com/video/T1Mxg4EVh98/w-d-xo.html ... and build along the same lines.
This might confuse you a bit as this is an Insulating video, but it you mix up plaster as I did here and pour it around a good size pattern, like a like paint tin, it will make a nice plaster foundry. It won't last long, but it WILL work.
After that, if you're enjoying it, make the refractory foundry in a similar way and then add plaster to the OUTSIDE of that as an insulation (mine is still going strong).
rest in peace King of Random
Where to buy the repractory and the molting jar like to try as a hubby
hi. can you see any reason not to have a steel sleeve between the fire coals and the sand plaster mix insulation . im thinking a large fire extinguisher surrounded by insulation inside a mettle drum with a smaller heavy cruicable inside all of that .
Hi Calvin,
I'll be honest, I really don't know. I suppose the steel will expand and encourage the plaster to crack, but plaster will do that anyway. If the steel isn't thick, the heat will eat through it quite quickly (and extinguisher should last a while). Also if you're looking to melt steel, you don't really want a steel lining in your foundry : )
In truth my friend, this is all about experimenting and finding the best way for you. We've all go different budgets and resources, so as long as you play safely why not give it a try and see how it goes?
Personally I would encourage you to go down the refractory route - that's why I made this video - but there are insulation issues. In truth I've just rebuilt the lid of my foundry with 50% plaster (for good insulation) then a 50% covering of refractory (for excellent heat handling). I've yet to test it but I'm hopeful.
All the best.
Geoff
Thank you for your video Sir Jeff.
I'm young & learning, I have a question if it's ok, Can I use clay three holed bricks to forge metals or is it a bad idea ????
No Paul, never use ordinary clay bricks. Even at moderate temperatures like a garden fire, these can shatter, splinter and explode (a tiny bit - but spitting off very hot fragments). You need proper high temperature bricks, like those I used in my electric furnace build - th-cam.com/video/XypmI38IKAw/w-d-xo.html
@@vogman Respectfully, fire brick mortar & Grade 28 fire bricks, Question, where do I get this Sir ? Do they sale it at a home Depot or Lowe's ? Or online ? I travel & have cash but can try to use a card if I need to....???? & Thank you kindly for your help ! Videos Sir.
Respectfully@@vogman question, I did research, will this silica fire brick / rutland fire brick up to 2700 degrees Fahrenheit for using to make a forge safety reasons I ask ? I checked out the video & I can not find any store near me with name 28 grade brick, I hope I'm understanding & have got the right resources, your the only one who has went out of there way to help me, thank you very much Sir for helping .
Respectfully, / Sincerely.
Signed :
This young man.
Paul~
it says taking temperatures at 1700 which is the melting temperature of brass will this melt brass without an issue and what are the risks of going above that temperature
Hi Nathan. I would imagine you'd be looking at cracking... The point behind refractory, when compared to plaster kilns, is that it stay stable and whole. If you push the temperature too high I would guess it would crack and destabilise, but I'm no expert. Thankfully you can get refractory that haqndles much higher temperatures if that interests you.
Hope this helps.
Nathan Saier - you've got a units mix-up here. Brass melts at 1700f/925c. The refractory was good up to 3092f/1700c
Out of curiosity, are you wishing in hindsight that you had built the burner inlet more tangent to the edge of the bore so the flame follows the wall and swirls? Just out of curiosity. The first furnace I built had a burner inlet in about the same spot as yours. It was not and issue when I used my 3/4" reil propane burner, because the burner tube was oversized and I was able to aim the burner along the wall. But recently, I built a forced air propane burner, and it is the same size as the inlet, now the flame blasts one spot on the crucible and you can tell as plain as day that the crucible glows brighter in that one spot.
You're absolutely right. This was only my second foundry built and I planned and aimed to have the heat circulate around the walls. I don't think the video quite does it justice because it DOES do this, but I will admit it could be better. I think we all built better in hindsight : )
I mainly dabble with aluminium and so far I've been very pleased with the results I've been getting.
For a small, cheap, easy set up, I really have got no complaints. If I venture further into casting, I might change things a little... We'll have to see.
Thanks for your comments.
Geoff
What diameter should the foundry be? I can get a 20liter oil drum. It's 42cm in height with a 32cm diameter. Would this be too narrow for a foundry?
The simple answer is - it's up to you.
It's about the crucible really... you want to have enough room to get the crucible in and out, but not so much room that you're losing heat, so as small as you can get away with is often best. And how big a crucible do you need? Well that depends on what you're doing. If it's making jewellery, then tiny. If it's engine parts, probably large.
I hope this makes it clearer : )
can we use cement ( green - grey colour ) with small rocks instead please replay
+Taimoor Rbeaat
A lot of people use cement to make a home foundry. I previously used plaster. This time I wanted the proper stuff and this refractory is easy to work with and a good price. But don't be put off. If you search for a Cement Foundry I'm sure you'll find a few videos out there.
Best wishes,
Geoff
Good evening sir I have a question, after the oven was built, how long must I let it dry to use it, thank you from Venezuela.
Hi José. The refractory I used requires a minimum of 24 hours to dry, but I think it's best to leave it a few days in a warm dry place until it turns a pale grey colour.
Then light a small fire in it - using just a little wood and paper. Feed this fire slowly for an hour then let it burn out.
The next day light a fire with charcoal which should burn a little hotter. Again feed this for an hour and let it burn out.
This should be all that's necessary : )
The above process worked great for me. My foundry is still crack-free, stable, strong and working well.
I hope this helps.
Geoff
Muchas gracias por la información...
I just used sand for the bottom 2 inches (the flat base). It's cheaper. And easier to clean up the mess if a crucible breaks
Smart thinking : )