You have put this video together very well! Things I like include: 1. Thumbnail of finished product. 2. Concise instruction for each step of the process. 3. Video to match each step of your process. 4. The "why" to do things a certain way, to prevent others from making your mistakes. 5. Your voice-over matched the steps! Great and awesome work!
In preparation for making my own foundry I’ve watched at least 200 videos. Sir you have done so well here! Firstly your voice is awesome and you are concise without any ramblings. This is the best Instructional video yet I will definitely make sure all my friends see this thank you so much.!
I'm only half way through watching this and it's easily the best video I've watched on this subject. Planning to build my own very soon and have watched plenty of other videos, this video is going to be my primary guidance. Many thanks!
For the folks in the states specifically the Midwest, Menards sells a 25lb bucket of refractory cement and it’s just enough to do the king of random way with a 2 inch bottom. Just did mine. Curing it currently. Can’t wait! Thanks for the vid vegoilguy
A leaf blower is great for making a huge flamethrower. I setup a burn barrell for the kids. I used a 44 gallon drum in half.i drilled 50mm holes around 100mm up from the bottom. I did harden my machete but a lot of firewood behind my property. Old trees on the ground.
I like this build better than all the rest I've seen. Actually pretty simple and to the point. I built one but mixed my own with cement perlite and silica sand. it was messy and time consuming. After about a couple of dozen lights it became too brittle and started falling apart. I'm going to try your build see how that comes out. Thanks. Joe San Diego, CA USA
Hi Jim. Trust me, it's fabulous. It must be coming up to a couple of years old now and it's still just as good as the day it was cast. I did make the mistake of not insulating the base and the whole thing needs a good insulation wrap. Look out for my Plaster Insulation video. With that included, it's been an excellent, sturdy but cheap foundry : )
I have a friend that gives me water heaters. Im going to make a foundry out of one using your instrutions. Anybody could follow them. Great video. You just got a new subscriber. Happy new year to you and your family.
Nice work, I just may well copy it, as is a convenient Chippy at the top of my road. Possibility of cooking oil cans and used oil in the same place. As an addition, just looked through your other projects, I like some of them to have a go at. I have subbed.
That's great news Mark. Welcome aboard. You're sounding British (?) so I'll paste an answer below I've just sent to another casting newbie : ) It's a great hobby and amazingly useful. Sure here you see me casting knives and coins, but there are far more "real" applications like brackets, gears, even art, but these can make boring videos. However, casting can allow you to make stuff engineering companies normally produce. If you've never tried casting at all, make a "plaster" foundry. If you look up King Of Random Mini Metal Foundry you'll see how easily Grant makes a foundry using plaster of Paris. That's a bit pricey in large quantities here in the UK, so try Bonding (plaster) and sharp (concrete) sand for a really cheap UK mix. Three recommendations for you: 1) Make a temporary foundry like King of Random but using the recipe I've mentioned above and in no.3 video (below) 2) If you're sure it's for you, buy castable refractory and make your own as I do here - th-cam.com/video/n42t3M1fOyY/w-d-xo.html - just one tip, we all make our first foundry too small, so get an idea of the crucible size you want before you build. Treat my video as a demo, not a bible... make things to suit YOU. 3) The refractory needs exterior insulation and this can be done very cheaply with a plaster and sand mix as seen here - th-cam.com/video/T1Mxg4EVh98/w-d-xo.html (you can also build a cheap, temporary plaster foundry with the mix mentioned - see point 1). In the videos / descriptions you should find links and products you'll find a large DIY stores (Wickes, Homebase, etc, as well as smaller building suppliers). Any questions, etc, drop me a line : )
I was so excited when I finished my foundry based on Grant's model. Unfortunately it did crumble but I had a great time building it, and I made a decent ingot with it. I'm going to be giving your design a shot and I'm excited.
Part of the reason your food tin gave you trouble coming out of the lid were the ribs stamped in its' side, coupled with the refractory expanding as it cured, locked it right in place for you.
Hi Geoff Just came across your metal foundry video now. excellent video, factual, down to earth simple explanation on the design philosophy and build. really enjoyed this, thank you so much for sharing your great skills. Thanks & greetings from Ireland.
I do not know anything about making a furnace but I am very interested in the video and would like to make an attempt at making one myself.I do have some experience of working with making items in mass concrete and I suggest coating the plastic can in oil and then rolling several layers of aluminium foil around it.This should make it easier to remove even BEFORE the the cast has fully hardened.Similarly for the tin used in the "chimney".Thanks for sharing.
Hi i am just getting into blacksmithing and i was wanting to start casting steel for knifes and a couple if other things . I just got a ton of ceramic molds from a friend in wich i can custom cut my molds or use the already existing ones. I was wondering what type of crucibke i need as well as anything else i should know about the casting of steel?
Knives tend to be forged from steel, rather than cast. Crucibles to handle those kind of temperatures tend to be extremely expensive. Those that you see cast are usually made from aluminium, so they are replicas only. That sort of crucible can easily be found on eBay, Amazon, etc.
This is the most helpful foundry tutorial I have found yet, I have been looking for ideas on the subject for months now. I tried The King Of Randoms design but it fell apart and was to small. I have some good ideas now and intend to try again soon.The fuel has been the hardest part to come up with. I now have a useful plan thank you for taking the time to put together an informative and useful video on the subject.
Thank you for your video Sir Jeff. I'm young & learning, I have a question if it's ok, Can I use clay three holed bricks to forge metals or is it a bad idea ????
No Paul, never use ordinary clay bricks. Even at moderate temperatures like a garden fire, these can shatter, splinter and explode (a tiny bit - but spitting off very hot fragments). You need proper high temperature bricks, like those I used in my electric furnace build - th-cam.com/video/XypmI38IKAw/w-d-xo.html
@@vogman Respectfully, fire brick mortar & Grade 28 fire bricks, Question, where do I get this Sir ? Do they sale it at a home Depot or Lowe's ? Or online ? I travel & have cash but can try to use a card if I need to....???? & Thank you kindly for your help ! Videos Sir.
Respectfully@@vogman question, I did research, will this silica fire brick / rutland fire brick up to 2700 degrees Fahrenheit for using to make a forge safety reasons I ask ? I checked out the video & I can not find any store near me with name 28 grade brick, I hope I'm understanding & have got the right resources, your the only one who has went out of there way to help me, thank you very much Sir for helping . Respectfully, / Sincerely. Signed : This young man. Paul~
I think you are professor of making excellent, classic tutorial videos. The subtitles are very good idea for those who have problems with understanding of oral narration - this way it is sure even they do not miss any important information. As you shown, you had problems by removing of burner although you wrapped it in cling foil. Next time try to wrap it in double side silconized baking paper. You should use at least two but better if three layers, wich are independent from each other. Silcone gives actually some lubrication between layers and makes easier to remove the tuyere pattern. This is just an idea, I have not tryed, but I suppose it works.
Hi Nomadpek. Thanks for the kind comments and the excellent suggestion. I recently insulated the foundry and had the same problem... luckily this time I wrapped the burner with the metal from an ordinary soda can. It worked brilliantly. Take care and all the best. Geoff
Hi Geoff. What do you recommend as wall thickness of foundry without insulation? At bottom it is 50 mm in video, but at sides it seems to be more, even 100 mm?
Hi Nomadpek. If you're going to use proper refractory, be guided by the manufacturers. They know best : ) Personally I had 50mm all around... it might look thicker on the walls, but it's just an optical illusion. Some refractorys can be applied thinner than this, that's why it's best to ask, but if in doubt, 50mm PLUS insulation is a reasonable guide. Best wishes, Geoff
Out of curiosity, are you wishing in hindsight that you had built the burner inlet more tangent to the edge of the bore so the flame follows the wall and swirls? Just out of curiosity. The first furnace I built had a burner inlet in about the same spot as yours. It was not and issue when I used my 3/4" reil propane burner, because the burner tube was oversized and I was able to aim the burner along the wall. But recently, I built a forced air propane burner, and it is the same size as the inlet, now the flame blasts one spot on the crucible and you can tell as plain as day that the crucible glows brighter in that one spot.
You're absolutely right. This was only my second foundry built and I planned and aimed to have the heat circulate around the walls. I don't think the video quite does it justice because it DOES do this, but I will admit it could be better. I think we all built better in hindsight : ) I mainly dabble with aluminium and so far I've been very pleased with the results I've been getting. For a small, cheap, easy set up, I really have got no complaints. If I venture further into casting, I might change things a little... We'll have to see. Thanks for your comments. Geoff
Whoever it is that took over his channel sent it straight to the gutter. Sure, it still gets views. But the content is garbage and not NEARLY on the same level as grant. Grant: how to make metal foundry New people: how many gummy worms does it take to clog a toilet, or some shit
Hi is fire brick same substance as Hebel block? It cuts with a handsaw. It feels like a really coarse pumice stone? In Australia I can't find fire bricks? Unless I order a pallet! Lol. Cheers from Australia just subbed.nice work love it! 🙂👍👍👍
I think 50/50 sand and plaster is used because it's more porous than refractory cement which can explode due to high pressure caused by expanding gases. what refractroy material did you use? is it porous enough to prevent explosion?
I used professionally manufactured refractory... so there's no risk of explosion. Mine has been going strong for a couple of years now and is just as good as the day I made it. Plus it can happily take up to 1700C : )
I have a couple of questions for my maiden voyage. what kind of container are you actually melting the aluminum in or any metal for that matter. I have a fire extinguisher and an old small propane cylinder. both can be used for any project and just have to cut the tops off. thanks for your help
Hi Kate. I use a crucible purchased from eBay. They vary in price and as I'm not a professional I went for the cheaper end and these have served me fine. Steel containers are commonly used (especially by newbies - I know I did) and will serve you fine. You might keep them forever (some do). It can be dependent on your fuel. Gas and Oil are more forgiving, but charcoal etc tends to 'eat' at the steel container. This happens anyway, regardless of the fuel (the steel starts to flake) but can happen in a single occasion if the foundry is too hot. That happened to my my first time. The trick is not to expect too much at first. Just try it, see what happens and remember that every time it gets easier and more manageable - but never safer! Always be careful and stay safe : )
Do you have the full detentions for this? I mainly want to know how big does the inside cavity need to be (I guess the size of the paint can), and how thick are the walls? Looks like a bit over 2 inches.
Hope people use steel rivets :-) Although even if they were aluminium I guess they won't get hot enough to melt, being that they are outside the refractory. Great Video by the way! I've watched this and some of your other videos a few times over the past several years. I had some injuries and wasn't able to do much for two years, but I'm really looking at beginning a foundry build soon. Been saving up aluminium for 5 or 6 years now (bags of cans, cast aluminum scrap, and etc) have a good amount that I can recycle. Thanks for your Vids!
hi. can you see any reason not to have a steel sleeve between the fire coals and the sand plaster mix insulation . im thinking a large fire extinguisher surrounded by insulation inside a mettle drum with a smaller heavy cruicable inside all of that .
Hi Calvin, I'll be honest, I really don't know. I suppose the steel will expand and encourage the plaster to crack, but plaster will do that anyway. If the steel isn't thick, the heat will eat through it quite quickly (and extinguisher should last a while). Also if you're looking to melt steel, you don't really want a steel lining in your foundry : ) In truth my friend, this is all about experimenting and finding the best way for you. We've all go different budgets and resources, so as long as you play safely why not give it a try and see how it goes? Personally I would encourage you to go down the refractory route - that's why I made this video - but there are insulation issues. In truth I've just rebuilt the lid of my foundry with 50% plaster (for good insulation) then a 50% covering of refractory (for excellent heat handling). I've yet to test it but I'm hopeful. All the best. Geoff
Thanks for your question. To be honest I'm not really sure but I personally don't think so. Plaster has excellent heat resistant qualities, it's quick to work and fairly cheap, hence plenty of Plaster foundrys out there. BUT it has a short life and one-fire seems to make everything fragile. I can't see how perlite would overcome this fragility, but who know? Maybe you could experiment? I'll be honest, I toyed with conducting lots of experiments with various components to make a quality foundry material, but I'm not really that patient and I think frequent failures would make me lose interest. That's why I went with an established product - proper refractory. But don't let me put YOU off from experimenting... who knows what you might discover ; ) Best of luck. Geoff
just rewatched Goeff, great vid thank you. I wanted to see how you mixed up the refractory (it looks like we have a similar brand). I'm hoping to put refractory in my foundry today... at last! Horray! cheers o/ #edit... Coco is very cute!
Castree Kilns was where I got mine. I think I mentioned it in the video. And yes, just add water and stir : ) And Cocoa is a pleasure to have around. Whoever said, "It's a dog's life" meaning things are a struggle clearly didn't meet my pampered pooch who gets spoiled rotten by everyone.
Hello Veg... love your videos... absolutely amazed, me and my dad where think of also going to make grant's design, however we also found floors in his plane... I was just wondering what size crucible you were using, because we were having troubles finding the right size.. thank you very much Definitely subscribing!!!
Hi Tristan, Thanks for the kind comments. I don't consider myself an expert foundry worker... I just enjoy dabbling, so I try to keep costs down where I can. I got my crucibles on eBay. These are the guys I used... www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Graphite-furnace-casting-foundry-crucible-melting-tool-1-2-4-6-8-10-12-14-16-kg-/111639076142?var=&hash=item19fe351d2e I'm pretty sure my largest is a 6kg crucible which I believe holds a little over a litre. That's more than big enough for my projects and it fitted nicely into the foundry (you see it in the video). I tend to do most of my work with a very tired looking 2kg (you can see that on the Copper Melt video). If you're new to foundry work, don't spend too much too soon. You can spend thousands and if you're doing top notch work like myfordboy it's probably worth it (I imagine he charges a nice penny for those engines he builds). Me I just make brackets, cogs and anything else that takes my fancy. Hope this helps. Best wishes, Geoff
I have to say, this didn't really work for me. The structure held, sure, but the face still crumbled and with each use, the situation gets worse. BUT it is an improvement of P of P alone and is still a face and very cheap solution, ideal for those trying the hobby for the first time.
Aside from water, why didn't you use sodium silicate? A few months back, I made a refractory for a friend much similar to your concept, but without knowing your video existed. By the way, I subscribed because you have a practical sense of thinking, I admire that. I'll be coming back here for references and such. Keep pushing forward.
Hi Jomar. I never claim to be an expert my friend, I just like showing my personal experiments and experiences. I hope in doing so I might help a few folks out along the way (even if it's telling them what NOT to do). There's so much about the foundry process I simply don't know and, in truth, you're sodium silicate tip is one of them, so thanks for sharing. As and when I improve, I will share. Thanks for getting in touch - and for subscribing : ) Geoff
You say in the video that you can recycle used motor oil. Is there any smell to it when burned and is it safe for the environment to burn it? Also, how many melts do you reckon this could handle? I want to start stockpiling copper as a side hustle.
Personally I've never used waste motor oil. I can't imagine it burning very cleanly or without odour. I can't imagine it's environmentally friendly to do as it is a fossil fuel. But some folks do it... I prefer waste veg oil which ticks all the boxes : ) As for how long, my foundry is over two years old and still going strong.
@@vogman Thank you for the speedy reply. It sounds like a durable foundry material. The used veg oil is a bit scarce for me but the motor oil not so much. I guess I'll start saving the chip pan oil. Does it leave a residue on the foundry walls compared to propane?
@@vogman Thank you for the information. Metal stockpiling is one of many things I'm exploring as side money along my full time job. Saving for a house, retirement, death.
@@vogman will charcoal not block air flow anyway? I am thinking about making grate and putting air intake below it. my foundry looks like a big metal box, my crucible has the same shape just smaller. I can weld some strip iron to corners to make it more square, but I don't know if that will help. I think the airflow is the most crucial part to achieve high temperatures, but I don't know where to position it.
im looking at using propane for my furnace fuel. do you think there is an ideal air gap between outside edge of crucible and inside edge of furnace for flame to vortex? thanks
Hi Dan. Thanks for your question. I think there may well be the perfect spacing and shape to encourage the vortex effect you're describing. Unfortunately I don't think it could be easily figured out without the sort of technology your average guy has. Still, it's nice to try... If you have any luck, let me know : ) Best wishes, Geoff
The simple answer is - it's up to you. It's about the crucible really... you want to have enough room to get the crucible in and out, but not so much room that you're losing heat, so as small as you can get away with is often best. And how big a crucible do you need? Well that depends on what you're doing. If it's making jewellery, then tiny. If it's engine parts, probably large. I hope this makes it clearer : )
Hi Leonidas. I don't like ceramic wool as it's a health hazard. If you read up on the material you'll find it gives off very nasty fibres that can cause permanent health issues. Nasty stuff. However, if it's correctly coated with something, like refractory cement (such as the Devil-Forge foundry I've reviewed), then it's safe to use and makes a very nice, well insulated foundry : )
Thanks for the instructions, very neat. What's the thickness of the walls? Also, have you considered putting some kind of high temperature insulation between the barrel and the refractory mix?
+Piotr Sarnacki Hi Piotr, thanks for the kind comments. The walls are approx 50mm (2 inch). And insulation? Yes, that's a must. I hoped to get away with it but no. I do have a video on the subject underway. Best wishes, Geoff
may be missing it, but I've read down a fair way and I'm not finding it.. so what's the rate of consumption (liter per hour) on your burner? and what temperatures do you get? (max, and average operation)
Both are good questions and both, I'm afraid, I have no answer to. I have no thermometer capable of measuring the temperature but the refractory is capable of withstanding 1700 degrees Celsius, more than I need. Personally I've only melted Aluminium and Copper within it using my veg oil burner, if that helps. The burner consumption... I pour a few inches of WVO into my feed bucket, then take out a few inches later on when I'm done. There's obviously going to be a drop, but I've never noticed much difference, so at the very least I can say it's not a thirsty process. Sorry I can't be more scientific for you. Best wishes Geoff
actually 'not a thirsty process' is scientific enough for the consumption portion of my question. it does seem like a pretty efficient burn, and I'd probably not go through a liter or two at a time, and that'd be for long long days of melting. as for the temperatures, do you reckon, with a good insulative refractory, your burner (especially the improved design) could hit a temperature suitable for melting down iron? I'm planning on doing some experimentation on my own, and was just wondering if you thought it'd get anywhere close to start with, or do you think it'd need some tinkering to get up to those kind of eyebrow searing temps? I mean probably the fastest way to raise the temp would be to really up the airflow, unless I wanted to bother with trying to pipe oxygen in. (would rather not mess with that if I can help it) if I wind up changing/modifying your burner in a more efficient way, I'll let you know, as well as any pitfalls I wind up coming across.
I'll be as honest as I can be... I really don't know. The "plaster" insulation I've added to my Foundry is still fairly new but I've been amazed by it. I'm still only melting Aluminium at the moment but the crucible cradle which I made from steel is glowing bright red these days... it's getting pretty hot in there. Experimentation really is the key. I think with good insulation there's the potential for Iron, but it will be challenging for you I think. If you're like me, you'll enjoy that challenge (that's why guys like us do this sort of thing after all). My oil burner is a cheap way in, so you can spend your money on refractory and insulation from the beginning, giving lots of potential. If the oil burner doesn't pay off, you might want to try a compressor powered oil burner for more power, though these can be thirsty. Gas is also great for hitting the high temperatures. Hope this helps. Enjoy your experimenting : )
i gotta say its great to have a consistant speed naration and quality things for the average guy..im just starting out building my own foundry and belt grinder (bench sander) with a electric drill as the motor as i have a limited space on my outdoor topstory balcony..gonna be funny when i start slamming 1 smaller shedge hammer in2 a bigger1..itl be a manuaul run bupushing down with a counter weight till i can save enough from knife and sword making to upgrade and use my smaller1 as a smelting foundry
Thanks for your question. It's not something I've ever done but I can't imagine it working too well. The main insulating factor of light-weight insulations like these is the air they trap. I would imagine refractory would squash the air out, making the insulation thin and worthless. I found a simple plaster / sand mix added to the outside of the foundry made a VERY effective insulation. Hope this helps : )
What type of concrete did you use again? The video is awesome by the way! Could I use a Grant Thompson design with that type of concrete? Do you think it would work many times before needing replacement?
Hi Armaan, Thanks for the kind comments. I used a Refractory product that is designed especially for this purpose and you can see where and what I purchased here - www.castreekilns.co.uk/dense-castable-1700c-25kg-bag-869-p.asp This material is designed the withstand high temperatures and remain stable for long periods so in theory in shouldn't need replacing for a good length of time. I don't think you could apply Grants technique of plunging a small bucket into a big bucket to displace the central content. That works with plaster as it goes off in seconds. The Refractory goes off in hours so you'd be waiting a long time plus I believe it's recommended that you don't add too much water to the product... add as little as possible to make it workable is the approach I understand. I hope this helps. Best wishes, Geoff
Not this one... it's more like 4 or 5 hundred with this one : ) The type you're talking about are plaster furnaces, made famous by the King Of Random. These are cheap and easy to build, but they fall apart almost immediately. The type I build here is made from Refractory, which is a cement product capable of remaining stable at very high temperatures. Mine is still going strong : )
@@vogman That's very amazing result, but can it melt steel? (1310 Celsius degrees / 2400 Fahrenheit degrees) I'm just looking for something that I can melt some steel waste. My English isn't enough advanced to understand at same time that u're speaking, but I'm still working on it. And great thanks for response and greetings from Poland :D
No problem Lucas. I'm not clever enough to speak any other language : ) Yes, this is refractory cement that can take temperatures of 1700 C. This is where I bought it in this country... www.castreekilns.co.uk/dense-castable-1700c-25kg-bag-869-p.asp I'm sure you can get something closer to home. There are different types to choose. I hope this helps you : D
Hi José. The refractory I used requires a minimum of 24 hours to dry, but I think it's best to leave it a few days in a warm dry place until it turns a pale grey colour. Then light a small fire in it - using just a little wood and paper. Feed this fire slowly for an hour then let it burn out. The next day light a fire with charcoal which should burn a little hotter. Again feed this for an hour and let it burn out. This should be all that's necessary : ) The above process worked great for me. My foundry is still crack-free, stable, strong and working well. I hope this helps. Geoff
it says taking temperatures at 1700 which is the melting temperature of brass will this melt brass without an issue and what are the risks of going above that temperature
Hi Nathan. I would imagine you'd be looking at cracking... The point behind refractory, when compared to plaster kilns, is that it stay stable and whole. If you push the temperature too high I would guess it would crack and destabilise, but I'm no expert. Thankfully you can get refractory that haqndles much higher temperatures if that interests you. Hope this helps.
QUESTION ? COULD YOU HAVE PUT A (LIGHT COAT) OF OLIVE OIL OR COOKING OIL ROUND THAT THIN METAL ring AND the plastic container ring, may have helped getting them out easier, would it hurt the mold wall? That did come out very nice, good idea on the wheels, you should make Like atleast 10 & sell them❤
I liked your video. I've seen someone else who used refractory cement to make his. He laments the lack of insulating value. Perhaps some insulating aggregate would help alleviate this problem. For the short term, the current smelter could be wrapped in something like fiberglass.
Hi Ron. Thanks for your comments. The job of the refractory is to withstand high temperatures without falling apart and it does this very well. My concern with mixing other materials into the refractory is that it might weaken the mix and cause it to crack and fail. Of course there are more expensive refractories that offer higher insulating values. I got round the problem by adding very cheap but highly effective plaster outside of my refractory as you can see in this video - th-cam.com/video/T1Mxg4EVh98/w-d-xo.html The plaster does still crack but remains fairly stable as it's on the outside of the heat. It's been a good while now since I added this insulation to my foundry and I've no regrets at all. It works brilliantly. Hope this helps : ) Geoff
I went on to see your 2 layer solution, and I like that too. It's good that it's working well for you. Where did you get your crucible from, and do they offer other sizes?
Hi Ron. I got my crucible cheaply on eBay. I think it was an A4 size (that's a crucible size - not the paper size). It wasn't by any specific supplier so yes there's plenty of size and price options. If you're new to metal melting, I'd recommend cheap to start with... if the hobby is something you enjoy then later on you can buy more expensive makes. I still consider myself an amateur and cheap works well for me : ) Hope this helps.
VegOilGuy I very much appreciate our willingness to answer questions judgement free. Thank-you for that. It also is a big plus that you gave pretty complete and well spoken presentations. I like viewing your vids significantly better than most.
VegOilGuy have you seen any of the videos that TAOW has made? Interesting stuff with a DIY electric foundry. He's also welded up some mild steel crucibles, one is quite large. However, he seems to have a larger budget.
+Taimoor Rbeaat A lot of people use cement to make a home foundry. I previously used plaster. This time I wanted the proper stuff and this refractory is easy to work with and a good price. But don't be put off. If you search for a Cement Foundry I'm sure you'll find a few videos out there. Best wishes, Geoff
excellent. I'm going to build one. How many KGs of refractory did you use? Many of the suppliers seem to sell 25KG bags. Is that enough, or would I need 2 for a furnace that size?
+Luke Albanese Hi Luke. If you're a UK man, I recommend the supplier I used, castree... www.castreekilns.co.uk/dense-castable-1700c-25kg-bag-869-p.asp Brilliant service. Ordered one day and received the next. Great price. They're based in Wales and I'm in the Midlands, but that made no difference to the service. Just as fast. Yes they're 25 kg bags and for my build I probably used 1.75 bags worth. I've got a little left over and I'm toying with an idea for that. The refractory is a delight to work with. Just add water (as little as you can get away with) and mix very well. It goes off overnight which means you have time to work it rather than having to rush as folks do with the Plaster type foundries. Hope this helps ; ) Geoff
Although my plan is to build a small foundry, your detail works well for me. Especially the detailed information on the refractory mix. I want something that will last beyond one or two melts. Nice job! By the way is it best to buy or make a crucible ?
Thanks for your kind words Tom. I would recommend you think carefully about insulation before you build - that's the only fault with this build. The foundry itself is still in excellent shape (no crumbling walls, etc). I'm revisiting the issue of insulation right now so do look out for a new video in a few weeks. As for crucible, it depends on what you have to hand, what your heat source is and what you're looking to melt. Steel works fine with gas / oil / electrics but tends to get eaten by charcoal / coal... at least that's my experience. Personally I tend to buy to crucibles. They're generally cheap enough on eBay and long lasting too. Hope this helps. Best wishes, Geoff
Are you on Alloy Avenue? Great video. I'm a chronic recycler/reuser myself, and i truly enjoyed your project. When it comes to refractory cement, there's no better option. My current furnace is a mix of perlite, sand, bentonite & mortar. It's okay for solid fuels, but now that I'm using propane, a rebuild is coming soon. Sybscribed.
Hi Frank, I'm not on Alloy Avenue but I have heard good things about it. A few of my subscribers have talked about in the past. I'm no casting expert - just a happy amateur who likes to play. Hopefully in a few weeks I'll have a lost foam casting video to share with you... this follows on from the wooden sprockets video. Thanks for subscribing. Remember I'm always open to video requests and will try to help where I can - but I think with Alloy Avenue you're already in good hands : ) Best wishes Geoff
hello! I have found your video to be, just what I have been looking for; I have plans on melting some steel, and I needed to maintain a working temp. of around 2900f I watched your video, and I've read your answers in the comments. I know steel starts to boil when the temp hit about 31 to 3200f I was wondering how long do you think your foundry would last or may I ask how many firings would you guess at a working temp of 2900f plus ??? by the way great videos. maybe a 3'' wall will help?
Hi Walter. Thanks for your comments. As long as you ensure that the refractory you use is for higher temperatures, I can't see any reason why it shouldn't last a good long time. I'm afraid I can't guess as how long - but a plaster foundry tends to fall apart on five or six firings, whereas my current foundry has been fired 20 to 30 times and still looks brand new to me. The reason is simple - refractory IS the specifically made for this purpose : ) You will need to look into good insulation get melt steel. All the best Geoff
If you're asking if it can melt cans, the yes, no problem at all. If you're asking if you can cast metal from this, again yes. I have melted copper in this furnace. It works very well 😁
I recently found a big pool filter canister. It seems to be made of aluminum (non-magnetic). Can I use this for the body of my foundry or do I need to find steel? I can't find those oil cans anywhere... Thanks
small suggestion for an easier removal of the paint can:before u place it inside the furnace,place around the paint can around the external side some pizza box paper or something similar and fix it on the can with something like insulating tape or similar. place the can with pizza box around well fixed to the can inside the furnace and start pouring the refractory cement . day after u will have a slightly easier life on pulling out the can from foundry.
Thanks Ludo. Always good to have input. There's more than one way to do just about anything and it's by sharing these ideas we get the method that's best for us : )
I don't think I'd swallow any of it or breath in the dust, but the same goes for any building material (for example, cement). I think as long as you're sensible, you'll have no problems. Hope this helps.
If I did you'd hate it... very boring. It's just a matter of adding a little water, mix a bit, add more water, mix a bit, water, etc. If you put in too touch water you'll ruin the mix so little at a time is the way. Take it steady, be a little patient and you can't go wrong ; ) All the best Geoff
It's great, I would have saved my time, and just got a sturdy new steel can though. Castors had me a little concerned, but you have used lockable ones.
if you watched a little more of grant's channel he explains that the mini metal foundry is more desired to be and easier, in another video he shows how to make some improvements and another completely different design for a more professional foundry
just kinda seemed like toy were bagging on him a little hard considering he made it clear that you could have used better materials if you were willing to spend more money
Hi Brandon. Thanks for your comments. Please don't think I'm being harsh on Grant. That's NOT my intention. I'm a big fan. It was he that inspired me to get into casting in the first place with his metal foundry, which I think I do say in the video. I think I describe Grant's video as a masterpiece and ideal for folks who want to try home foundry work... it's been a while since I watched my own video if I'm honest : ) My video is aimed at people who have tried Grant's approach, liked it, fancy doing something a little more permanent, but still don't have a massive budget to spend (I know I haven't). In another video I go on to insulate the foundry and again mention Grant's mix as an affordable and practical solution. I always strive to give credit where it's due, and Grant is worthy of a lot of praise. Thanks again for the feedback. Geoff PS. I haven't seen Grant's professional foundry... I'll have to look out for it : )
Great job sir! I am considering making one of these foundries or an electrical one, do you have any idea how much propane gas it is needed to melt say 1kg of aluminum?
Thanks for the kind words. This is a nice easy build and well worth the moderate investment in refractory. As for how much gas, there's just too many variables... how much gas the torch is consuming, how much heat it's giving out, the insulating qualities of the foundry (very important that - see my video on the subject before you build -th-cam.com/video/T1Mxg4EVh98/w-d-xo.html ), the ambient temperature, the purity of the aluminium, etc, etc. In short it becomes a "how long is a piece of string" type question. I think gas is a good way to go as it's very controllable. If you can get hold of used (waste) veg oil, this is typically free and can make a very effective free, environmentally friendly heat source.(I made a really simple one of these here - th-cam.com/video/vQzuNOBOPOs/w-d-xo.html). I tend to use both gas and oil, raising the foundry to an ideal temperature fairly quickly with gas then switching to free oil for the duration. This keeps the costs down nicely. Sorry I can't be more specific. I hope the above helps a little. Good luck and play safe : ) Geoff
I plan on making one of these, in a similar fashion with the old man. My biggest concern is safety, primarily regarding molten metal and whatnot. (Not all Yank's are fool hardy) but with the oil fuel system, is there any chance the flame itself could backup into the system, causing some sort of detonation/explosion? Especially if someone were to make the mistake of shutting the airflow first? I'm fairly ignorant in these subjects, only having 8-9 hours of a TH-cam education. I just don't want to walk into this blind, I'm sure you understand. Gloves, long tongs, maybe an apron, good boots, a form of fire extinguisher (bucket of sand). Am I missing anything? Also, it could be the angle of which I saw your video, but it looked as if it was perpendicular to the foundry itself, couldn't that be a potential hazard if your base (I don't know the technical term, but the part that actually holds the molten metal) had some sort of failure, to which molten metal could seep out from the oil burn pipe? (Leaving a decent scare and/or a bloody mess in its' wake?) Or is the depth of your base in your foundry sufficient to contain any molten metal? Sorry for the long comment, but it seems to me you definitely are experienced, and educated in all this. And I'll trust your judgement. Cheers mate, from the Central US!
Hi Ryan. Thanks for your questions. I commend your approach. Why take a risk with your health? Especially for the sake of what is often very little money... you're spot on! Firstly I use veg oil in my burner - th-cam.com/video/vQzuNOBOPOs/w-d-xo.html Veg oil is possibly the safest fuel in my opinion. Initially setting up a burner like mine can be fiddly, but once you've got the air and oil balance just right, it's great. As the oil needs a very high temperature to combust, it's difficult to light it outside of the foundry. So if the oil 'backed-up' as you say, it would just make a mess, not a fire : ) Secondly the burner itself enters the foundry at a slightly downward angle (so flow heads INTO the foundry) and is roughly a inch or so above the inner floor. So should the crucible fail, the metal would be contained inside. Personally I feel the most dangerous part of the process is removing the red-hot crucible from the foundry and then pouring the molten metal. I designed a basic cradle to improve the safety aspect - th-cam.com/video/zLfAmrKebew/w-d-xo.html - but steel inside a foundry has a short life span so be warned if you want to do something similar. If you're trying the hobby, I'd recommend beginning with charcoal. Ordinary bags of barbecue fuel will do. A hole in the foundry wall, a long steel pipe and a hairdryer will have you see white-hot coals... it's surprising. This really is the quickest, easiest and cheapest way into the hobby. It gives you a feel for things, boosts your confidence and helps you learn what's expected of you. I'm a big research fan myself, but nothing beats real, practical, hands-on experience. With charcoal or veg oil (even old motor oil) you should be safe from the risk of explosion... leaving you just searing heat to worry about ; ) Hope this helps. Best of luck.
You have put this video together very well! Things I like include:
1. Thumbnail of finished product.
2. Concise instruction for each step of the process.
3. Video to match each step of your process.
4. The "why" to do things a certain way, to prevent others from making your mistakes.
5. Your voice-over matched the steps!
Great and awesome work!
You're very kind 😁
WOW!! I see me watching this hundreds of times before finishing my build...THANK YOU!!
In preparation for making my own foundry I’ve watched at least 200 videos. Sir you have done so well here! Firstly your voice is awesome and you are concise without any ramblings. This is the best Instructional video yet I will definitely make sure all my friends see this thank you so much.!
One of the best and most professional homemade foundries I have seen to date. Brilliant!
+Edgar Whyte
That's very kind. Thanks.
It's amazing how good some of you forge builders are and you are one of the good ones
It's an easy project really. Just add water : )
I like the simplicity of you design. Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
I'm glad you mentioned who you looked after
I'm only half way through watching this and it's easily the best video I've watched on this subject. Planning to build my own very soon and have watched plenty of other videos, this video is going to be my primary guidance. Many thanks!
That's very kind. Just remember the one thing missing from this video is external insulation - but I cover that in other videos 😁
Okay great will do, thanks again ;)
For the folks in the states specifically the Midwest, Menards sells a 25lb bucket of refractory cement and it’s just enough to do the king of random way with a 2 inch bottom.
Just did mine. Curing it currently. Can’t wait! Thanks for the vid vegoilguy
Thanks for sharing that helpful tip : )
How's it holding up?
I got 2 buckets of the Menards refractory cement... just need to get my furnace built
A leaf blower is great for making a huge flamethrower. I setup a burn barrell for the kids. I used a 44 gallon drum in half.i drilled 50mm holes around 100mm up from the bottom. I did harden my machete but a lot of firewood behind my property. Old trees on the ground.
I like this build better than all the rest I've seen. Actually pretty simple and to the point. I built one but mixed my own with cement perlite and silica sand. it was messy and time consuming. After about a couple of dozen lights it became too brittle and started falling apart. I'm going to try your build see how that comes out. Thanks.
Joe
San Diego, CA USA
I haven't seen that foundry at work,but it's a whole lot more sturdy,than most. I need to put one of my own together. Thanks for the video!
Hi Jim. Trust me, it's fabulous. It must be coming up to a couple of years old now and it's still just as good as the day it was cast. I did make the mistake of not insulating the base and the whole thing needs a good insulation wrap. Look out for my Plaster Insulation video. With that included, it's been an excellent, sturdy but cheap foundry : )
I have a friend that gives me water heaters. Im going to make a foundry out of one using your instrutions. Anybody could follow them. Great video. You just got a new subscriber. Happy new year to you and your family.
Thanks great tutorial I had no issue with the volume clear as every other video
Many thanks Lawrence
Nice work, I just may well copy it, as is a convenient Chippy at the top of my road. Possibility of cooking oil cans and used oil in the same place.
As an addition, just looked through your other projects, I like some of them to have a go at. I have subbed.
That's great news Mark. Welcome aboard.
You're sounding British (?) so I'll paste an answer below I've just sent to another casting newbie : )
It's a great hobby and amazingly useful. Sure here you see me casting knives and coins, but there are far more "real" applications like brackets, gears, even art, but these can make boring videos. However, casting can allow you to make stuff engineering companies normally produce.
If you've never tried casting at all, make a "plaster" foundry. If you look up King Of Random Mini Metal Foundry you'll see how easily Grant makes a foundry using plaster of Paris. That's a bit pricey in large quantities here in the UK, so try Bonding (plaster) and sharp (concrete) sand for a really cheap UK mix.
Three recommendations for you:
1) Make a temporary foundry like King of Random but using the recipe I've mentioned above and in no.3 video (below)
2) If you're sure it's for you, buy castable refractory and make your own as I do here - th-cam.com/video/n42t3M1fOyY/w-d-xo.html - just one tip, we all make our first foundry too small, so get an idea of the crucible size you want before you build. Treat my video as a demo, not a bible... make things to suit YOU.
3) The refractory needs exterior insulation and this can be done very cheaply with a plaster and sand mix as seen here -
th-cam.com/video/T1Mxg4EVh98/w-d-xo.html (you can also build a cheap, temporary plaster foundry with the mix mentioned - see point 1).
In the videos / descriptions you should find links and products you'll find a large DIY stores (Wickes, Homebase, etc, as well as smaller building suppliers).
Any questions, etc, drop me a line : )
I was so excited when I finished my foundry based on Grant's model. Unfortunately it did crumble but I had a great time building it, and I made a decent ingot with it. I'm going to be giving your design a shot and I'm excited.
Hi, did you try it? How did it go?
Part of the reason your food tin gave you trouble coming out of the lid were the ribs stamped in its' side, coupled with the refractory expanding as it cured, locked it right in place for you.
Will it work for metals?
Best I've seen
Thanks Mike
Is it worth adding perlite to the refractory cement?
Hi Geoff Just came across your metal foundry video now. excellent video, factual, down to earth simple explanation on the design philosophy and build. really enjoyed this, thank you so much for sharing your great skills. Thanks & greetings from Ireland.
I do not know anything about making a furnace but I am very interested in the video and would like to make an attempt at making one myself.I do have some experience of working with making items in mass concrete and I suggest coating the plastic can in oil and then rolling several layers of aluminium foil around it.This should make it easier to remove even BEFORE the the cast has fully hardened.Similarly for the tin used in the "chimney".Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for your suggestion.
You're right, the foil would have made things easier : )
We live and learn.
Best wishes
Geoff
Hi i am just getting into blacksmithing and i was wanting to start casting steel for knifes and a couple if other things . I just got a ton of ceramic molds from a friend in wich i can custom cut my molds or use the already existing ones. I was wondering what type of crucibke i need as well as anything else i should know about the casting of steel?
Knives tend to be forged from steel, rather than cast. Crucibles to handle those kind of temperatures tend to be extremely expensive. Those that you see cast are usually made from aluminium, so they are replicas only. That sort of crucible can easily be found on eBay, Amazon, etc.
Very interesting. Yeah. I have built a charcoal foundry, but I think a gas foundry is the way forward for me.
This is the most helpful foundry tutorial I have found yet, I have been looking for ideas on the subject for months now. I tried The King Of Randoms design but it fell apart and was to small. I have some good ideas now and intend to try again soon.The fuel has been the hardest part to come up with. I now have a useful plan thank you for taking the time to put together an informative and useful video on the subject.
Thanks. Good luck with your build : )
Very nice job!
Many thanks : )
Brilliant video thanks for posting
Thanks for Sharing, you showed like you been doing these experience and understanding how this works.
Fantastic job
Many thanks : )
Thank you for your video Sir Jeff.
I'm young & learning, I have a question if it's ok, Can I use clay three holed bricks to forge metals or is it a bad idea ????
No Paul, never use ordinary clay bricks. Even at moderate temperatures like a garden fire, these can shatter, splinter and explode (a tiny bit - but spitting off very hot fragments). You need proper high temperature bricks, like those I used in my electric furnace build - th-cam.com/video/XypmI38IKAw/w-d-xo.html
@@vogman Respectfully, fire brick mortar & Grade 28 fire bricks, Question, where do I get this Sir ? Do they sale it at a home Depot or Lowe's ? Or online ? I travel & have cash but can try to use a card if I need to....???? & Thank you kindly for your help ! Videos Sir.
Respectfully@@vogman question, I did research, will this silica fire brick / rutland fire brick up to 2700 degrees Fahrenheit for using to make a forge safety reasons I ask ? I checked out the video & I can not find any store near me with name 28 grade brick, I hope I'm understanding & have got the right resources, your the only one who has went out of there way to help me, thank you very much Sir for helping .
Respectfully, / Sincerely.
Signed :
This young man.
Paul~
I think you are professor of making excellent, classic tutorial videos. The subtitles are very good idea for those who have problems with understanding of oral narration - this way it is sure even they do not miss any important information.
As you shown, you had problems by removing of burner although you wrapped it in cling foil. Next time try to wrap it in double side silconized baking paper. You should use at least two but better if three layers, wich are independent from each other. Silcone gives actually some lubrication between layers and makes easier to remove the tuyere pattern. This is just an idea, I have not tryed, but I suppose it works.
Hi Nomadpek. Thanks for the kind comments and the excellent suggestion.
I recently insulated the foundry and had the same problem... luckily this time I wrapped the burner with the metal from an ordinary soda can. It worked brilliantly.
Take care and all the best.
Geoff
Hi Geoff. What do you recommend as wall thickness of foundry without insulation? At bottom it is 50 mm in video, but at sides it seems to be more, even 100 mm?
Hi Nomadpek. If you're going to use proper refractory, be guided by the manufacturers. They know best : )
Personally I had 50mm all around... it might look thicker on the walls, but it's just an optical illusion.
Some refractorys can be applied thinner than this, that's why it's best to ask, but if in doubt, 50mm PLUS insulation is a reasonable guide.
Best wishes,
Geoff
Hello everybody, what kind of crucible you recommend to smelt iron or steel? Thanks in advance
I love it. How to use now?
very nice build. i have learned alot from this video that will help me for my foundry build.
I'm pleased to hear that. Thanks.
It actually saved me some $ building my own. Thanks for the tips and guide to building it. 🙌
Thanks for a great video will be most useful,I like the sub titles as they make sure the message is clear.Well done that man!!
+allen gentz
Many thanks.
Being hearing impaired I really appreciate when a person actually types the CC instead of letting the computer do it! Thank you
How long has this foundry lasted.
Out of curiosity, are you wishing in hindsight that you had built the burner inlet more tangent to the edge of the bore so the flame follows the wall and swirls? Just out of curiosity. The first furnace I built had a burner inlet in about the same spot as yours. It was not and issue when I used my 3/4" reil propane burner, because the burner tube was oversized and I was able to aim the burner along the wall. But recently, I built a forced air propane burner, and it is the same size as the inlet, now the flame blasts one spot on the crucible and you can tell as plain as day that the crucible glows brighter in that one spot.
You're absolutely right. This was only my second foundry built and I planned and aimed to have the heat circulate around the walls. I don't think the video quite does it justice because it DOES do this, but I will admit it could be better. I think we all built better in hindsight : )
I mainly dabble with aluminium and so far I've been very pleased with the results I've been getting.
For a small, cheap, easy set up, I really have got no complaints. If I venture further into casting, I might change things a little... We'll have to see.
Thanks for your comments.
Geoff
Thank you for this. This is one of the best looking diy's i've seen. I love that you reinforced the drum with the other two seams.
Glad it was helpful!
Love grant Thomson. Sorry to hear of his passing
Whoever it is that took over his channel sent it straight to the gutter. Sure, it still gets views. But the content is garbage and not NEARLY on the same level as grant.
Grant: how to make metal foundry
New people: how many gummy worms does it take to clog a toilet, or some shit
Well explained
A ducting crimper will easily shrink the edge of the bottom barrel so the top will easily slide over it. Big box hardware stores have them cheap.
Excellent suggestion Robert. Thanks!
can I melt all sorts of metals in this? please help me with the refractories which I can use to melt all types of metal.
Hi is fire brick same substance as Hebel block? It cuts with a handsaw. It feels like a really coarse pumice stone? In Australia I can't find fire bricks? Unless I order a pallet! Lol. Cheers from Australia just subbed.nice work love it! 🙂👍👍👍
Cool video. Alot of improvements that I was looking for. You sir earned yourself a lifetime subscriber.
Hi Javier. Thanks very much. I appreciate it : )
Great video thank you. Brilliant instructions!
Glad you enjoyed it! 😁
I think 50/50 sand and plaster is used because it's more porous than refractory cement which can explode due to high pressure caused by expanding gases. what refractroy material did you use? is it porous enough to prevent explosion?
I used professionally manufactured refractory... so there's no risk of explosion. Mine has been going strong for a couple of years now and is just as good as the day I made it. Plus it can happily take up to 1700C : )
Very well presented!!!!!
Thanks Robin : )
I have a couple of questions for my maiden voyage. what kind of container are you actually melting the aluminum in or any metal for that matter. I have a fire extinguisher and an old small propane cylinder. both can be used for any project and just have to cut the tops off. thanks for your help
Hi Kate. I use a crucible purchased from eBay. They vary in price and as I'm not a professional I went for the cheaper end and these have served me fine.
Steel containers are commonly used (especially by newbies - I know I did) and will serve you fine. You might keep them forever (some do). It can be dependent on your fuel. Gas and Oil are more forgiving, but charcoal etc tends to 'eat' at the steel container. This happens anyway, regardless of the fuel (the steel starts to flake) but can happen in a single occasion if the foundry is too hot. That happened to my my first time.
The trick is not to expect too much at first. Just try it, see what happens and remember that every time it gets easier and more manageable - but never safer! Always be careful and stay safe : )
That is a great furnace 👍🏻
Awesome tutorial! Subbed and liked. 🙂👍👍👍❤
Do you have the full detentions for this? I mainly want to know how big does the inside cavity need to be (I guess the size of the paint can), and how thick are the walls? Looks like a bit over 2 inches.
Hope people use steel rivets :-)
Although even if they were aluminium I guess they won't get hot enough to melt, being that they are outside the refractory. Great Video by the way! I've watched this and some of your other videos a few times over the past several years. I had some injuries and wasn't able to do much for two years, but I'm really looking at beginning a foundry build soon. Been saving up aluminium for 5 or 6 years now (bags of cans, cast aluminum scrap, and etc) have a good amount that I can recycle. Thanks for your Vids!
Great video
hi. can you see any reason not to have a steel sleeve between the fire coals and the sand plaster mix insulation . im thinking a large fire extinguisher surrounded by insulation inside a mettle drum with a smaller heavy cruicable inside all of that .
Hi Calvin,
I'll be honest, I really don't know. I suppose the steel will expand and encourage the plaster to crack, but plaster will do that anyway. If the steel isn't thick, the heat will eat through it quite quickly (and extinguisher should last a while). Also if you're looking to melt steel, you don't really want a steel lining in your foundry : )
In truth my friend, this is all about experimenting and finding the best way for you. We've all go different budgets and resources, so as long as you play safely why not give it a try and see how it goes?
Personally I would encourage you to go down the refractory route - that's why I made this video - but there are insulation issues. In truth I've just rebuilt the lid of my foundry with 50% plaster (for good insulation) then a 50% covering of refractory (for excellent heat handling). I've yet to test it but I'm hopeful.
All the best.
Geoff
Where to buy the repractory and the molting jar like to try as a hubby
would adding perlite as refractory to the 50/50 plaster and sand mix help or hold together longer.?
Thanks for your question.
To be honest I'm not really sure but I personally don't think so. Plaster has excellent heat resistant qualities, it's quick to work and fairly cheap, hence plenty of Plaster foundrys out there. BUT it has a short life and one-fire seems to make everything fragile. I can't see how perlite would overcome this fragility, but who know? Maybe you could experiment?
I'll be honest, I toyed with conducting lots of experiments with various components to make a quality foundry material, but I'm not really that patient and I think frequent failures would make me lose interest. That's why I went with an established product - proper refractory. But don't let me put YOU off from experimenting... who knows what you might discover ; )
Best of luck.
Geoff
theres a video somewhere in these side videos where the guy use PoP, sand, perlite and refactory cement for his mix. I believe it came out good.
Well done
Hello. That was a very nice job. do you have an idea hos heavy it is compared to a foundry made with bricks and KoWoll? thanks.
I can't give you numbers as I don't know them, but from lightest to heaviest... wool, firebrick, refractory mix : )
just rewatched Goeff, great vid thank you. I wanted to see how you mixed up the refractory (it looks like we have a similar brand). I'm hoping to put refractory in my foundry today... at last! Horray! cheers o/ #edit... Coco is very cute!
Castree Kilns was where I got mine. I think I mentioned it in the video. And yes, just add water and stir : )
And Cocoa is a pleasure to have around. Whoever said, "It's a dog's life" meaning things are a struggle clearly didn't meet my pampered pooch who gets spoiled rotten by everyone.
haha dogs are the best :) ahh yes! same place i got mine, total bargain!
Thank you for all the tips, now i understand why my furnace walls crumbled (using Grant's 50/50 formula)
Thanks.
Grant's is an excellent design, but it's not really suitable for regular use.
Best wishes,
Geoff
Hello Veg... love your videos... absolutely amazed, me and my dad where think of also going to make grant's design, however we also found floors in his plane...
I was just wondering what size crucible you were using, because we were having troubles finding the right size.. thank you very much
Definitely subscribing!!!
Hi Tristan, Thanks for the kind comments.
I don't consider myself an expert foundry worker... I just enjoy dabbling, so I try to keep costs down where I can. I got my crucibles on eBay. These are the guys I used...
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Graphite-furnace-casting-foundry-crucible-melting-tool-1-2-4-6-8-10-12-14-16-kg-/111639076142?var=&hash=item19fe351d2e
I'm pretty sure my largest is a 6kg crucible which I believe holds a little over a litre. That's more than big enough for my projects and it fitted nicely into the foundry (you see it in the video). I tend to do most of my work with a very tired looking 2kg (you can see that on the Copper Melt video).
If you're new to foundry work, don't spend too much too soon. You can spend thousands and if you're doing top notch work like myfordboy it's probably worth it (I imagine he charges a nice penny for those engines he builds). Me I just make brackets, cogs and anything else that takes my fancy.
Hope this helps.
Best wishes,
Geoff
Add steel wool for added strength
I have to say, this didn't really work for me. The structure held, sure, but the face still crumbled and with each use, the situation gets worse. BUT it is an improvement of P of P alone and is still a face and very cheap solution, ideal for those trying the hobby for the first time.
Aside from water, why didn't you use sodium silicate? A few months back, I made a refractory for a friend much similar to your concept, but without knowing your video existed. By the way, I subscribed because you have a practical sense of thinking, I admire that. I'll be coming back here for references and such. Keep pushing forward.
Hi Jomar.
I never claim to be an expert my friend, I just like showing my personal experiments and experiences. I hope in doing so I might help a few folks out along the way (even if it's telling them what NOT to do). There's so much about the foundry process I simply don't know and, in truth, you're sodium silicate tip is one of them, so thanks for sharing. As and when I improve, I will share.
Thanks for getting in touch - and for subscribing : )
Geoff
You say in the video that you can recycle used motor oil. Is there any smell to it when burned and is it safe for the environment to burn it? Also, how many melts do you reckon this could handle? I want to start stockpiling copper as a side hustle.
Personally I've never used waste motor oil. I can't imagine it burning very cleanly or without odour. I can't imagine it's environmentally friendly to do as it is a fossil fuel. But some folks do it... I prefer waste veg oil which ticks all the boxes : )
As for how long, my foundry is over two years old and still going strong.
@@vogman Thank you for the speedy reply. It sounds like a durable foundry material. The used veg oil is a bit scarce for me but the motor oil not so much. I guess I'll start saving the chip pan oil. Does it leave a residue on the foundry walls compared to propane?
None at all. It burns VERY cleanly at high temperatures : )
@@vogman Thank you for the information. Metal stockpiling is one of many things I'm exploring as side money along my full time job. Saving for a house, retirement, death.
where should I position air intake when I am making big square shaped foundry 100x50cm where I will be using charcoal as fuel?
If you can round of the corners slightly, this will help you achieve a circular air flow around the crucible 😁
@@vogman will charcoal not block air flow anyway? I am thinking about making grate and putting air intake below it. my foundry looks like a big metal box, my crucible has the same shape just smaller. I can weld some strip iron to corners to make it more square, but I don't know if that will help. I think the airflow is the most crucial part to achieve high temperatures, but I don't know where to position it.
im looking at using propane for my furnace fuel. do you think there is an ideal air gap between outside edge of crucible and inside edge of furnace for flame to vortex?
thanks
Hi Dan. Thanks for your question.
I think there may well be the perfect spacing and shape to encourage the vortex effect you're describing. Unfortunately I don't think it could be easily figured out without the sort of technology your average guy has.
Still, it's nice to try...
If you have any luck, let me know : )
Best wishes,
Geoff
I love your video's. Just one thing though. What is that thing that is in your foundry (at 20:23-20:26) called?
You mean the crucible? Yes, that's the bit where the metals melt 😁👍👍👍
Nice build, where did you purchase the crucible? I'm still using a steel crucible and not sure how long it will last.
Very good, 8 have been looking for this video for awhile.
Glad I could help : )
What is the size /capacity of your crucible, please?
What diameter should the foundry be? I can get a 20liter oil drum. It's 42cm in height with a 32cm diameter. Would this be too narrow for a foundry?
The simple answer is - it's up to you.
It's about the crucible really... you want to have enough room to get the crucible in and out, but not so much room that you're losing heat, so as small as you can get away with is often best. And how big a crucible do you need? Well that depends on what you're doing. If it's making jewellery, then tiny. If it's engine parts, probably large.
I hope this makes it clearer : )
Great video, and really useful to have some details of a UK supplier. Thanks.
Many thanks : )
Why you not using kawool for the foundry isulation is more cheper and more isulanting than refratory concrete.
Hi Leonidas. I don't like ceramic wool as it's a health hazard. If you read up on the material you'll find it gives off very nasty fibres that can cause permanent health issues. Nasty stuff. However, if it's correctly coated with something, like refractory cement (such as the Devil-Forge foundry I've reviewed), then it's safe to use and makes a very nice, well insulated foundry
: )
Thanks for the instructions, very neat. What's the thickness of the walls? Also, have you considered putting some kind of high temperature insulation between the barrel and the refractory mix?
+Piotr Sarnacki
Hi Piotr, thanks for the kind comments.
The walls are approx 50mm (2 inch).
And insulation? Yes, that's a must. I hoped to get away with it but no. I do have a video on the subject underway.
Best wishes,
Geoff
may be missing it, but I've read down a fair way and I'm not finding it.. so
what's the rate of consumption (liter per hour) on your burner? and what temperatures do you get? (max, and average operation)
Both are good questions and both, I'm afraid, I have no answer to.
I have no thermometer capable of measuring the temperature but the refractory is capable of withstanding 1700 degrees Celsius, more than I need. Personally I've only melted Aluminium and Copper within it using my veg oil burner, if that helps.
The burner consumption... I pour a few inches of WVO into my feed bucket, then take out a few inches later on when I'm done. There's obviously going to be a drop, but I've never noticed much difference, so at the very least I can say it's not a thirsty process.
Sorry I can't be more scientific for you.
Best wishes
Geoff
actually 'not a thirsty process' is scientific enough for the consumption portion of my question. it does seem like a pretty efficient burn, and I'd probably not go through a liter or two at a time, and that'd be for long long days of melting.
as for the temperatures, do you reckon, with a good insulative refractory, your burner (especially the improved design) could hit a temperature suitable for melting down iron? I'm planning on doing some experimentation on my own, and was just wondering if you thought it'd get anywhere close to start with, or do you think it'd need some tinkering to get up to those kind of eyebrow searing temps?
I mean probably the fastest way to raise the temp would be to really up the airflow, unless I wanted to bother with trying to pipe oxygen in. (would rather not mess with that if I can help it)
if I wind up changing/modifying your burner in a more efficient way, I'll let you know, as well as any pitfalls I wind up coming across.
I'll be as honest as I can be... I really don't know.
The "plaster" insulation I've added to my Foundry is still fairly new but I've been amazed by it. I'm still only melting Aluminium at the moment but the crucible cradle which I made from steel is glowing bright red these days... it's getting pretty hot in there.
Experimentation really is the key. I think with good insulation there's the potential for Iron, but it will be challenging for you I think. If you're like me, you'll enjoy that challenge (that's why guys like us do this sort of thing after all).
My oil burner is a cheap way in, so you can spend your money on refractory and insulation from the beginning, giving lots of potential. If the oil burner doesn't pay off, you might want to try a compressor powered oil burner for more power, though these can be thirsty. Gas is also great for hitting the high temperatures.
Hope this helps. Enjoy your experimenting : )
i gotta say its great to have a consistant speed naration and quality things for the average guy..im just starting out building my own foundry and belt grinder (bench sander) with a electric drill as the motor as i have a limited space on my outdoor topstory balcony..gonna be funny when i start slamming 1 smaller shedge hammer in2 a bigger1..itl be a manuaul run bupushing down with a counter weight till i can save enough from knife and sword making to upgrade and use my smaller1 as a smelting foundry
As long as it makes you happy, it's worth it : )
I've got a question for some experienced people. Will a ceramic wool blanket covered in refractory still help?
Thanks for your question.
It's not something I've ever done but I can't imagine it working too well. The main insulating factor of light-weight insulations like these is the air they trap. I would imagine refractory would squash the air out, making the insulation thin and worthless.
I found a simple plaster / sand mix added to the outside of the foundry made a VERY effective insulation.
Hope this helps : )
VegOilGuy Ok I appreciate the response so I'll probably use your technique would you give me the name of the brand of refractory cement you used?
I'm not sure of a brand name... but I bought from Castreekilns.co.uk - you'll see various refractories there. You just add water : )
VegOilGuy ok thanks
What type of concrete did you use again? The video is awesome by the way! Could I use a Grant Thompson design with that type of concrete? Do you think it would work many times before needing replacement?
Hi Armaan,
Thanks for the kind comments.
I used a Refractory product that is designed especially for this purpose and you can see where and what I purchased here - www.castreekilns.co.uk/dense-castable-1700c-25kg-bag-869-p.asp
This material is designed the withstand high temperatures and remain stable for long periods so in theory in shouldn't need replacing for a good length of time.
I don't think you could apply Grants technique of plunging a small bucket into a big bucket to displace the central content. That works with plaster as it goes off in seconds. The Refractory goes off in hours so you'd be waiting a long time plus I believe it's recommended that you don't add too much water to the product... add as little as possible to make it workable is the approach I understand.
I hope this helps.
Best wishes,
Geoff
How many times can I use that furnace? I heard about 4-5 times, and then we have to "destroy" and build new one.
Not this one... it's more like 4 or 5 hundred with this one : )
The type you're talking about are plaster furnaces, made famous by the King Of Random. These are cheap and easy to build, but they fall apart almost immediately.
The type I build here is made from Refractory, which is a cement product capable of remaining stable at very high temperatures. Mine is still going strong : )
@@vogman That's very amazing result, but can it melt steel? (1310 Celsius degrees / 2400 Fahrenheit degrees)
I'm just looking for something that I can melt some steel waste. My English isn't enough advanced to understand at same time that u're speaking, but I'm still working on it.
And great thanks for response and greetings from Poland :D
No problem Lucas. I'm not clever enough to speak any other language : )
Yes, this is refractory cement that can take temperatures of 1700 C. This is where I bought it in this country...
www.castreekilns.co.uk/dense-castable-1700c-25kg-bag-869-p.asp
I'm sure you can get something closer to home. There are different types to choose.
I hope this helps you : D
@@vogman ❤️ Thanks for response
Good evening sir I have a question, after the oven was built, how long must I let it dry to use it, thank you from Venezuela.
Hi José. The refractory I used requires a minimum of 24 hours to dry, but I think it's best to leave it a few days in a warm dry place until it turns a pale grey colour.
Then light a small fire in it - using just a little wood and paper. Feed this fire slowly for an hour then let it burn out.
The next day light a fire with charcoal which should burn a little hotter. Again feed this for an hour and let it burn out.
This should be all that's necessary : )
The above process worked great for me. My foundry is still crack-free, stable, strong and working well.
I hope this helps.
Geoff
Muchas gracias por la información...
it says taking temperatures at 1700 which is the melting temperature of brass will this melt brass without an issue and what are the risks of going above that temperature
Hi Nathan. I would imagine you'd be looking at cracking... The point behind refractory, when compared to plaster kilns, is that it stay stable and whole. If you push the temperature too high I would guess it would crack and destabilise, but I'm no expert. Thankfully you can get refractory that haqndles much higher temperatures if that interests you.
Hope this helps.
Nathan Saier - you've got a units mix-up here. Brass melts at 1700f/925c. The refractory was good up to 3092f/1700c
What’s the refractory made off, here in Australia I can’t find any ? Tks
Sorry buddy I really don't know.
QUESTION ? COULD YOU HAVE PUT A (LIGHT COAT) OF OLIVE OIL OR COOKING OIL ROUND THAT THIN METAL ring AND the plastic container ring, may have helped getting them out easier, would it hurt the mold wall? That did come out very nice, good idea on the wheels, you should make Like atleast 10 & sell them❤
I liked your video. I've seen someone else who used refractory cement to make his. He laments the lack of insulating value. Perhaps some insulating aggregate would help alleviate this problem. For the short term, the current smelter could be wrapped in something like fiberglass.
Hi Ron. Thanks for your comments.
The job of the refractory is to withstand high temperatures without falling apart and it does this very well. My concern with mixing other materials into the refractory is that it might weaken the mix and cause it to crack and fail.
Of course there are more expensive refractories that offer higher insulating values.
I got round the problem by adding very cheap but highly effective plaster outside of my refractory as you can see in this video - th-cam.com/video/T1Mxg4EVh98/w-d-xo.html
The plaster does still crack but remains fairly stable as it's on the outside of the heat. It's been a good while now since I added this insulation to my foundry and I've no regrets at all. It works brilliantly.
Hope this helps : )
Geoff
I went on to see your 2 layer solution, and I like that too. It's good that it's working well for you. Where did you get your crucible from, and do they offer other sizes?
Hi Ron. I got my crucible cheaply on eBay. I think it was an A4 size (that's a crucible size - not the paper size). It wasn't by any specific supplier so yes there's plenty of size and price options. If you're new to metal melting, I'd recommend cheap to start with... if the hobby is something you enjoy then later on you can buy more expensive makes. I still consider myself an amateur and cheap works well for me : )
Hope this helps.
VegOilGuy I very much appreciate our willingness to answer questions judgement free. Thank-you for that. It also is a big plus that you gave pretty complete and well spoken presentations. I like viewing your vids significantly better than most.
VegOilGuy have you seen any of the videos that TAOW has made? Interesting stuff with a DIY electric foundry. He's also welded up some mild steel crucibles, one is quite large. However, he seems to have a larger budget.
can we use cement ( green - grey colour ) with small rocks instead please replay
+Taimoor Rbeaat
A lot of people use cement to make a home foundry. I previously used plaster. This time I wanted the proper stuff and this refractory is easy to work with and a good price. But don't be put off. If you search for a Cement Foundry I'm sure you'll find a few videos out there.
Best wishes,
Geoff
excellent. I'm going to build one. How many KGs of refractory did you use? Many of the suppliers seem to sell 25KG bags. Is that enough, or would I need 2 for a furnace that size?
+Luke Albanese
Hi Luke. If you're a UK man, I recommend the supplier I used, castree... www.castreekilns.co.uk/dense-castable-1700c-25kg-bag-869-p.asp
Brilliant service. Ordered one day and received the next. Great price. They're based in Wales and I'm in the Midlands, but that made no difference to the service. Just as fast.
Yes they're 25 kg bags and for my build I probably used 1.75 bags worth. I've got a little left over and I'm toying with an idea for that.
The refractory is a delight to work with. Just add water (as little as you can get away with) and mix very well. It goes off overnight which means you have time to work it rather than having to rush as folks do with the Plaster type foundries.
Hope this helps ; )
Geoff
Nice job!
Thanks Tom : )
Thanks for making this video helped me out a lot ! :)
Although my plan is to build a small foundry, your detail works well for me. Especially the detailed information on the refractory mix. I want something that will last beyond one or two melts. Nice job!
By the way is it best to buy or make a crucible ?
Thanks for your kind words Tom.
I would recommend you think carefully about insulation before you build - that's the only fault with this build. The foundry itself is still in excellent shape (no crumbling walls, etc).
I'm revisiting the issue of insulation right now so do look out for a new video in a few weeks.
As for crucible, it depends on what you have to hand, what your heat source is and what you're looking to melt. Steel works fine with gas / oil / electrics but tends to get eaten by charcoal / coal... at least that's my experience.
Personally I tend to buy to crucibles. They're generally cheap enough on eBay and long lasting too.
Hope this helps.
Best wishes,
Geoff
Are you on Alloy Avenue?
Great video. I'm a chronic recycler/reuser myself, and i truly enjoyed your project. When it comes to refractory cement, there's no better option. My current furnace is a mix of perlite, sand, bentonite & mortar. It's okay for solid fuels, but now that I'm using propane, a rebuild is coming soon.
Sybscribed.
Hi Frank,
I'm not on Alloy Avenue but I have heard good things about it. A few of my subscribers have talked about in the past. I'm no casting expert - just a happy amateur who likes to play. Hopefully in a few weeks I'll have a lost foam casting video to share with you... this follows on from the wooden sprockets video.
Thanks for subscribing. Remember I'm always open to video requests and will try to help where I can - but I think with Alloy Avenue you're already in good hands : )
Best wishes
Geoff
nice build
+Widget Lover
Many thanks
Is this still operational after this many years?
Absolutely 😁
hello! I have found your video to be, just what I have been looking for; I have plans on melting some steel, and I needed to maintain a working temp. of around 2900f I watched your video, and I've read your answers in the comments. I know steel starts to boil when the temp hit about 31 to 3200f I was wondering how long do you think your foundry would last or may I ask how many firings would you guess at a working temp of 2900f plus ??? by the way great videos. maybe a 3'' wall will help?
Hi Walter. Thanks for your comments.
As long as you ensure that the refractory you use is for higher temperatures, I can't see any reason why it shouldn't last a good long time. I'm afraid I can't guess as how long - but a plaster foundry tends to fall apart on five or six firings, whereas my current foundry has been fired 20 to 30 times and still looks brand new to me. The reason is simple - refractory IS the specifically made for this purpose : )
You will need to look into good insulation get melt steel.
All the best
Geoff
I would like too thank you for your videos and your feed back, and I look forward to more of your videos. to you and yours may god always bless!
That's very kind Walter. I wish you equal (if not greater) happiness : )
Can you melt cast in this ?
Kind regards
If you're asking if it can melt cans, the yes, no problem at all. If you're asking if you can cast metal from this, again yes. I have melted copper in this furnace. It works very well 😁
@@vogman I was referring to can it melt cast iron metal,
Sorry for not being so clear,
Thank you 😊
To increase the temperature you could add an oxygen port and oxygen tank and regulator
I recently found a big pool filter canister. It seems to be made of aluminum (non-magnetic). Can I use this for the body of my foundry or do I need to find steel? I can't find those oil cans anywhere... Thanks
I don't see why not. It's very unlikely the refractory would ever get hot enough to melt the aluminium : )
@@vogman awesome! Thanks!! (Also thanks for your amazing channel! I love all your posts!)
That's very kind. Thanks : )
small suggestion for an easier removal of the paint can:before u place it inside the furnace,place around the paint can around the external side some pizza box paper or something similar and fix it on the can with something like insulating tape or similar.
place the can with pizza box around well fixed to the can inside the furnace and start pouring the refractory cement .
day after u will have a slightly easier life on pulling out the can from foundry.
Thanks Ludo. Always good to have input.
There's more than one way to do just about anything and it's by sharing these ideas we get the method that's best for us : )
Thank you!! Is the dense castable 1700 c refractory mix dangerous?
And can you make a video that focuses mixing it ? Unless there are one already
I don't think I'd swallow any of it or breath in the dust, but the same goes for any building material (for example, cement).
I think as long as you're sensible, you'll have no problems.
Hope this helps.
If I did you'd hate it... very boring. It's just a matter of adding a little water, mix a bit, add more water, mix a bit, water, etc. If you put in too touch water you'll ruin the mix so little at a time is the way. Take it steady, be a little patient and you can't go wrong ; )
All the best
Geoff
It's great, I would have saved my time, and just got a sturdy new steel can though. Castors had me a little concerned, but you have used lockable ones.
The weight and the lockable castors do the trick nicely. Plus it saves my back whenever I want to much it : )
if you watched a little more of grant's channel he explains that the mini metal foundry is more desired to be and easier, in another video he shows how to make some improvements and another completely different design for a more professional foundry
just kinda seemed like toy were bagging on him a little hard considering he made it clear that you could have used better materials if you were willing to spend more money
Hi Brandon. Thanks for your comments.
Please don't think I'm being harsh on Grant. That's NOT my intention. I'm a big fan. It was he that inspired me to get into casting in the first place with his metal foundry, which I think I do say in the video. I think I describe Grant's video as a masterpiece and ideal for folks who want to try home foundry work... it's been a while since I watched my own video if I'm honest : )
My video is aimed at people who have tried Grant's approach, liked it, fancy doing something a little more permanent, but still don't have a massive budget to spend (I know I haven't). In another video I go on to insulate the foundry and again mention Grant's mix as an affordable and practical solution. I always strive to give credit where it's due, and Grant is worthy of a lot of praise.
Thanks again for the feedback.
Geoff
PS. I haven't seen Grant's professional foundry... I'll have to look out for it : )
How hot does it get without the installation that you added in a later video
I was able to melt aluminium, but on a cold day it took much longer to get to temperature... insulation is better : )
Great job sir! I am considering making one of these foundries or an electrical one, do you have any idea how much propane gas it is needed to melt say 1kg of aluminum?
Thanks for the kind words. This is a nice easy build and well worth the moderate investment in refractory.
As for how much gas, there's just too many variables... how much gas the torch is consuming, how much heat it's giving out, the insulating qualities of the foundry (very important that - see my video on the subject before you build -th-cam.com/video/T1Mxg4EVh98/w-d-xo.html ), the ambient temperature, the purity of the aluminium, etc, etc.
In short it becomes a "how long is a piece of string" type question.
I think gas is a good way to go as it's very controllable. If you can get hold of used (waste) veg oil, this is typically free and can make a very effective free, environmentally friendly heat source.(I made a really simple one of these here - th-cam.com/video/vQzuNOBOPOs/w-d-xo.html). I tend to use both gas and oil, raising the foundry to an ideal temperature fairly quickly with gas then switching to free oil for the duration. This keeps the costs down nicely.
Sorry I can't be more specific. I hope the above helps a little.
Good luck and play safe : )
Geoff
Thank you so much Geoff. I will check the links you sent me.
I plan on making one of these, in a similar fashion with the old man. My biggest concern is safety, primarily regarding molten metal and whatnot. (Not all Yank's are fool hardy) but with the oil fuel system, is there any chance the flame itself could backup into the system, causing some sort of detonation/explosion? Especially if someone were to make the mistake of shutting the airflow first? I'm fairly ignorant in these subjects, only having 8-9 hours of a TH-cam education. I just don't want to walk into this blind, I'm sure you understand.
Gloves, long tongs, maybe an apron, good boots, a form of fire extinguisher (bucket of sand). Am I missing anything?
Also, it could be the angle of which I saw your video, but it looked as if it was perpendicular to the foundry itself, couldn't that be a potential hazard if your base (I don't know the technical term, but the part that actually holds the molten metal) had some sort of failure, to which molten metal could seep out from the oil burn pipe? (Leaving a decent scare and/or a bloody mess in its' wake?) Or is the depth of your base in your foundry sufficient to contain any molten metal?
Sorry for the long comment, but it seems to me you definitely are experienced, and educated in all this. And I'll trust your judgement.
Cheers mate, from the Central US!
I looked up the term I was missing earlier, with the crucible having a potential accident
Hi Ryan. Thanks for your questions. I commend your approach.
Why take a risk with your health? Especially for the sake of what is often very little money... you're spot on!
Firstly I use veg oil in my burner - th-cam.com/video/vQzuNOBOPOs/w-d-xo.html
Veg oil is possibly the safest fuel in my opinion. Initially setting up a burner like mine can be fiddly, but once you've got the air and oil balance just right, it's great. As the oil needs a very high temperature to combust, it's difficult to light it outside of the foundry. So if the oil 'backed-up' as you say, it would just make a mess, not a fire : )
Secondly the burner itself enters the foundry at a slightly downward angle (so flow heads INTO the foundry) and is roughly a inch or so above the inner floor. So should the crucible fail, the metal would be contained inside.
Personally I feel the most dangerous part of the process is removing the red-hot crucible from the foundry and then pouring the molten metal. I designed a basic cradle to improve the safety aspect - th-cam.com/video/zLfAmrKebew/w-d-xo.html - but steel inside a foundry has a short life span so be warned if you want to do something similar.
If you're trying the hobby, I'd recommend beginning with charcoal. Ordinary bags of barbecue fuel will do. A hole in the foundry wall, a long steel pipe and a hairdryer will have you see white-hot coals... it's surprising. This really is the quickest, easiest and cheapest way into the hobby. It gives you a feel for things, boosts your confidence and helps you learn what's expected of you. I'm a big research fan myself, but nothing beats real, practical, hands-on experience.
With charcoal or veg oil (even old motor oil) you should be safe from the risk of explosion... leaving you just searing heat to worry about ; )
Hope this helps. Best of luck.