Nice work ! I have been doing one piece 1/4"x1/16" wood bindings with the ends behind the neck, no seam in the rear. I figured out a cool way to jig the binding. Trace the entire guitar pattern on a piece of ply or mdf. Drill a hole to start your jigsaw where the neck mortise is. Then cut the entire guitar profile out with a jigsaw using a slightly thicker blade then the binding. Then i soak the binding in water for a while depending on the wood. Maple only needs about a 1/2 hr. IPE needs 3 days lol. Then fire up your heat gun, mark the center of your binding, center it on the tail pin and get it started in the crack. Start stuffing the binding in the crack and work it all the way arpund with a heat gun, use a short piece of binding to gently tap it into the kerf slot. Use a flat head screwdriver to shift the opening of the gap as you go. With a piece of 1/2" ply you can stack both the top and bottom bindings right in on top of each other. Then let it sit for a couple days. It works really well !
So, are you happy with your tower build? It looked like it was working just fine. What clear material did you use for template and did you show a build on that. Looking forward to the neck!
I'm happy with the tower. I'm making a few small changes but nothing major. For the template, I just used some clear Acrylic. I showed it in the video where I made the original guitar mold. I'm looking forward to the neck as well.
Just finishing the binding on guitar #3, like you I love hand tools and have used a pair of "gramil" tools from LMI to cut the channels. More ticklish in some ways but definitely less pucker factor. I bought 2 gramils for ease of use, leave one set up for the width of the channel and the other for the depth;)
P.S., I'm using figured wood for the bindings so I don't pinch the pieces between plane blade and dowel the way Eric does, just index them against the upright and use finger pressure alone.
The binding tower is cool, but if you aren't doing many acoustic guitars, is it worth it? I simply 3D printed an alternate router base with a slight angle to compensate for the angle of the top/bottom relative to the sides of the guitar, and then cut the rabbets as I would for any piece of wood. It worked wonderfully on the acoustic that I built a few years ago. Just curious of your opinion as I'm about to start a second acoustic and am open to change.
Looking great Jeff! What size was the purfling and was it one piece or two? I’m trying to do some purfling out of Bubinga and it wants to break at the waist - was the padauk easy to bend? Did you just use a butt joint at the tail and neck?
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Thanks for taking us along for the ride Jeff!! It's an interesting process... I'll stick to pimpin' out cheap electrics... Blessings!!
Nice work ! I have been doing one piece 1/4"x1/16" wood bindings with the ends behind the neck, no seam in the rear. I figured out a cool way to jig the binding. Trace the entire guitar pattern on a piece of ply or mdf. Drill a hole to start your jigsaw where the neck mortise is. Then cut the entire guitar profile out with a jigsaw using a slightly thicker blade then the binding. Then i soak the binding in water for a while depending on the wood. Maple only needs about a 1/2 hr. IPE needs 3 days lol.
Then fire up your heat gun, mark the center of your binding, center it on the tail pin and get it started in the crack. Start stuffing the binding in the crack and work it all the way arpund with a heat gun, use a short piece of binding to gently tap it into the kerf slot. Use a flat head screwdriver to shift the opening of the gap as you go.
With a piece of 1/2" ply you can stack both the top and bottom bindings right in on top of each other.
Then let it sit for a couple days. It works really well !
Very nice. Thank you for sharing this process with us.
Thank You!
Very interesting. I build cigar box guitars, but NOTHING like this. Well done!
Thanks, CBG's are great. I've made several of those. This project is the most involved project I've tackled so far. Its getting there though.
Nice work man!
Thanks Dude! I'm not super happy with the thin area but I suppose thats part of the learning process.
So, are you happy with your tower build? It looked like it was working just fine.
What clear material did you use for template and did you show a build on that.
Looking forward to the neck!
I'm happy with the tower. I'm making a few small changes but nothing major. For the template, I just used some clear Acrylic. I showed it in the video where I made the original guitar mold. I'm looking forward to the neck as well.
Power tools may not be my thing, but the binding tower looks really well designed. Well done!
Thank You! I have a few changes to make yet but I'm super happy with how it works.
Just finishing the binding on guitar #3, like you I love hand tools and have used a pair of "gramil" tools from LMI to cut the channels. More ticklish in some ways but definitely less pucker factor. I bought 2 gramils for ease of use, leave one set up for the width of the channel and the other for the depth;)
@@johngriswold2213 That's genius! I should have ordered two!
P.S., I'm using figured wood for the bindings so I don't pinch the pieces between plane blade and dowel the way Eric does, just index them against the upright and use finger pressure alone.
Watching this makes me hungry for Tostitos corn chips!!
Mmmm, Tostitos with Salsa.
The binding tower is cool, but if you aren't doing many acoustic guitars, is it worth it? I simply 3D printed an alternate router base with a slight angle to compensate for the angle of the top/bottom relative to the sides of the guitar, and then cut the rabbets as I would for any piece of wood. It worked wonderfully on the acoustic that I built a few years ago. Just curious of your opinion as I'm about to start a second acoustic and am open to change.
Looking great Jeff! What size was the purfling and was it one piece or two? I’m trying to do some purfling out of Bubinga and it wants to break at the waist - was the padauk easy to bend? Did you just use a butt joint at the tail and neck?
Good ok ok