Replace CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER - Clutch hydraulic lines PART 2 - BMW Motorrad R1150R
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ต.ค. 2024
- Replace clutch hydraulic lines - [PART 2]
#BMWR1150R #CLUTCH #SLAVECYLINDER #HYDRAULICLINE #BLEEDLINE
As in the previous episodes, I do service for my BMW R1150 motorcycle
Diagnosis & maintenance BMW Motorrad R1150R 2003 engine R28
Let's continue with the previous episode!
Remove the clutch slave cylinder
Remove the master cylinder clutch hydraulic line from the slave cylinder
New vent pipe with bleeder nipple, paper seal and banjo bolt seals
Remove the old paper seal and clean a little clutch slave cylinder
The bearing of clutch slave cylinder seems to be in pretty good condition!
Checking a little innards from clutch slave cylinder
The seal appears to be in good condition on the upper sides
Remove return spring
Remove the broken vent pipe from the clutch slave cylinder
And the pieces back in place on the clutch slave cylinder
Install Banjo bolt seals in place
Place bearing grease around the bearing and in the bearing cavity
Place paper gasget
Clean the clutch slave cylinder housing
Take your own time putting the line in place and yes it will go in place!
It's ready! Then all the parts back in place!
Clutch fluids into the system and pump air out of the system
RESULT:
Pressure is created on the clutch line and clutch handle, but it is lost when the clutch is not in use.
Definitely worth replacing a new clutch slave cylinder while you're there! As well as the line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder!
Either there is air in the system or the clutch slave cylinder seal does not hold ...
Anyway, I want to replace those parts with new ones.
Let's take the job again and replace the new clutch slave cylinder and the clutch line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder
Let’s continue with the next episode! Stay tuned!
--
Watch this video!
If you liked this video, press the LIKE BUTTON, SUBSCRIBE channel, leave COMMENTS and SHARE content! By doing so, you will be able to support this TH-cam-channel!
Thank you! I appreciate it! 👍
Watch my previous videos on TH-cam related to the maintenance and diagnose of BMW R1150R with engine R28!
See the whole series from here:
• BMW Motorrad R1150R - ...
--
My purpose is to encourage people to do things themselves!
Plus, this is a nice hobby for myself and at the same time I have the opportunity to save a lot of money by doing all the maintenance myself!
I’m not a professional with cars or motorcycles, I just want to learn how to do things myself.
If you do this service yourself, always check the correct instructions in the official service manuals. This is just my way of doing it!
Jani Voutilainen
You can follow me also in:
INSTAGRAM: / voutilainen. .
FACEBOOK: / jani.voutila. .
TH-cam: / janivoutila. .
Thanks for Music:
Epic Cinematic Gaming Cyberpunk | RESET by Alex-Productions | / @alexproductionsnocopy...
Music promoted by www.free-stock...
Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported License
creativecommon...
and
Untitled Song Thing by PYC Music | / pycmusic
Music promoted by www.free-stock...
Attribution-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported (CC BY-ND 3.0)
creativecommon...
![[Full Episode] The Restaurant War Thailand ศึกพ่อค้าซ่าแม่ค้าแซ่บ Episode 4 | 13 ต.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/h8N9tY46P-M/mqdefault.jpg)
Nicely done; I appreciate your efforts in posting this video and not editing out the overheated line in part 1! It's possible replace the slave without removing the cross brace; I've done it twice - it's fiddly and hard on the knuckles but doable with some long ball-head hex wrenches and patience. One thing I'd mention which you covered with the first slave cylinder: most new replacement clutch slaves have only a small dab of bearing grease. Get a tube of SuperGrease or similar and pack more grease in there before installing. Also remove and inspect the slave unit every couple of years and re-grease if necessary, it'll greatly extend the life of the bearing which is generally the cause of failure. Safe travels!
Forgot to mention that I replaced that grub screw for the clutch bleeder line with a Speed Bleeder; makes changing out the fluid much easier for one person to do. I change the DOT4 in the clutch and brakes every year - cheap insurance to keep everything working well!
Glad to see others keeping these oilheads running.
23 12 2 330 135 SHAFT SEAL - 25X40X6 , ciao hai un video dove hai sostituito questo O-ring ? Grazie e complimenti x i video 💪
Merci beaucoup pour ta vidéo un grand merci à toi continue de nous régaler avec tes vidéo ✌🏽
Hey Jani. I have a VERY slow clutch fluid (DOT4) leak on my 2003 K1200GT. One drop evert couple of hours. What are the part numbers for the clutch slave cylinder SEALS for the rebuild? I thought that my DOT4 leak was coming from the hydraulic line crush washers that I gently disturbed when replacing my broken/cracked/deteriorated gear shift indicator switch. So I replaced the crush washers and I still have a very gentle drip.
Hello. I had the same symptoms as yours. It was necessary to replace the gearbox shaft cooperating with the clutch disc. The splines are broken. Great movies. Greetings from Poland.
I appreciate the video and the highlights on the bolts you were removing. I wish you would use commentary instead of generic music though. Also I have a question. I have read from different sources that the original factory bleeder was used to quickly fill the clutch slave cylinder with brake fluid and to replace that with a speedy bleeder. What made you decide to put the original OEM factory bleeder back on?
Thanks!
I put the original in place when I didn’t have a decent speed bleeder. That which I actually use in that video is just a cheap basic bleeder. Better speed bleeders cost more.
Thanks for this! Just what I needed! By the way, is that a crack in the housing around the bolt hole at 1:36? Eek.
Yep I thought I saw that as well.
Excellent job !!!!
I hear a wistle on my R 1150 RT .The wistle stops when I press the cluch.Do you think it could be a damaged bearing in the clutch cylinder ?
I think it should be replaced, because slave cylinder wall is not smooth but has scratches inside if I see it right. Good videos from you for us to watch.. thanks..
What are the part numbers for the replacement seals?
That's a very helpful video , i didn't have a clue about how to bleed the clutch , thank you for taking the time to show the whole assembly , very interesting , will be saving it for reference .I just wanted to know if i have to purchase the bleed nipple for this process before i attempt to open the system ?. Mine is a 2005 bike but i dont think its ever been done .
Thanks! 👍
There is also a speed bleeder that can be used. You should get one. Personally, I only used a cheap "Bleeder" that fits in place:
You may want to read this:
advrider.com/f/threads/pictorial-04-r1150gs-hydraulic-clutch-flush.491635/
@@JaniVoutilainen Thank you very much for the Link , there's a lot of information to go through . It does look unfortunately that i will be having to replace the throw out bearing as mine is rattling , it goes away when the clutch is pulled in , so looks a little more involved than a simple bleed . Ive purchased a cheep bleeder like yours and will be doing this shortly but i think there will be an ongoing story which i'm not looking forward to getting involved with . Stay safe .
How often should this be done?
Still prefer a profanity laden Chris Harris video. This is a great production with the steps clearly outlined, but had to mute the music. Great effort otherwise!
Fuck that!
Where's the push rod?