Thanks to you, I just finished a Super 2 early metal body saw. I used your excellent videos to take it on and had great success. New oil and gas lines, duck bills, piston ring, crankshaft seals and a full rebuild of the HDC carb. Purrs like a kitten now and oils the chain properly without bar oil getting into the crankcase. I really appreciate your careful instructions and explanations. Thank you!!
I have been away for a while. Currently working on 4 neglected Homelite chainsaws in an attempt to clear my accumulated projects. You the man....thanks for the detailed vids.
Thanks for your insight. I had overlooked the check valve as the cause of not being able to get the saw to perform evenly. I rebuilt an HDC-65 today. The parts kit (Walbro) had more than one metering arm spring. The kit instructions list four springs of different colors: COPPER (98-189), BLUE (98-270), GREEN (98-275) and BLACK (98-266). They are of different lengths and wire gauge. The old spring was copper-colored and the HDC-65 calls for a black spring. The carb had been rebuilt more than once. This made me look at the circuit plate gasket and ... it was also wrong. This explained the wet, black spark plug. And so, I am reminded: when rebuilding a carb on an old machine, always keep in mind that it may have been rebuilt with the wrong parts.
Outstanding video. Great insight🎉Those rubber valves are now $10 to $15 about as much as a new carb. Maybe trying to fab them out of metering diaphragm rubber or acetate with a homemade circular punch tool or metal tubing to get the perfect circular shape. Thats the best option. Otherwise its a new carb. More manufactured obsolescence
excellent ! I have destroyed my check valve during the disassembly, the old promac 10-10 had exactly the trouble described for hygh speed regime. Now I know that the problem was certainly this small disk. the repairing kit is not easy to find in europe and need to be purshised in USA. Means more than 20 euros, more expensive than a gold disk...well because the seat is removable, thanks to your explanation, I would never guess it was posible, probably I'll try to make a valve with a piece of membrane, and check if I have a leak with your method. A great thank to Leon for sharing his knowledge. And a big pray for the re-birth of my 42 years old chainsaw, make it work again is a real challenge !
I think you might be right, although, and I know this is hard to believe, Taryl gets into the weeds pretty good when he's not fooling around. Was that a run-on sentence? Lemmy no. Oh, let's not forget Steve's. But those guys are general. This site is carbs. Point taken.
I just sucseded to fix the checkvalve widh a pice of the old pump diafragm . 6 mm hole punch gave "that little piece of rubber " . Worked well after straight cut 0,5 mm away from diameter on opposit sides. Had to take out brass to get it in.
I know this is an older video but it is still a very good tutorial. If a metering needle leaks, first check the seat (magnifier and light are helpful), and try lapping/polishing the needle to the seat to clean it up nicely. If a bit a carburetor cleaner is not enough to remove any imperfections, try a tiny spot of toothpaste - it has just enough fine abrasive to work. Finally, try wetting the needle and seat with a bit of fuel mix. Sometimes that's all it takes to achieve a good seal.
Leon, I’m a few hours north of you on the I-5, in Salem, and I picked up an old craftsman chainsaw the other day at an estate sale for $5. The carb is the last hurdle, as the compression and spark are good. Your videos are a huge help
*Thanks for the awesome vid. I was finally able to get my 4 stihl 015 saws running after watching this. Turns out I had the wrong circuit plate gasket in all 4 units, I was using the Z one and the plates on all of them have 2 holes so they all kept flooding and running super rich. Put the other gasket in and now I can tune them all the way up to 12,500 RPM and they rip.*
Really appreciate this video Leon... I learned alot about proper use of a pressure testers and was able to get my old Husqvarna 140S running like new thanks to you and all the info packed in this video. My next project, tripple Mikuni carb rebuilds on a Yamaha Waverunner. Very similar design and testing techniques as used here. Best Regards, Sam.
I just started rebuilding carbs, found a tillotson that leaked on a brand new needle out of the kit. I stretched the spring but it still leaked. I removed the needle and sprayed carb cleaner in there several times. That did the trick. I suspect that the seat can get just a tiny speck of varnish or stuck debris and that will not allow the needle to seat. Seeing this Walbro compared to a tillotson....I'd go with the tillotson every time, much simpler and I think better designed. Thanks for your superb teaching videos!
I’ve said it before and will say it again, “You’ve got a GREAT voice!” Very easy to listen to and keeps our attention. Greatly needed instructional video. Thank you.
I have found that soaking carb gaskets in some mixed fuel prior to installation helps seal things up. I have had a few dry ones drive me crazy but as soon as I did that, they sealed up fine. Great video btw.
I am going to replace the check valves on my HDC's as well. I rebuilt the carbs but I think they need the valves done as well. Also when trying to remove the seat I don't know if you have tried it but with the retainer ring and screen out try turning in a 4mm machine screw by hand and pull it out.
Some of the rebuild kits I’ve used have a small hole in the levering dimple for the metering needle .. a small wire in that holds the spring in perfect alignment for assembly
Great video I learned some things. I have an old Homelite XL-1. I found a carb kit at NAPA for it. Cleaned it all up and put it together. My kit came with the snap ring for that check valve but I didn't pull that apart. Anyway I don't think my needle valve is sealing enough. I will try stretching the spring and i'll try a spray bottle to check for leaks. Good time. I used to have a shop years ago but worked mainly on quads,bikes and sleds. I was a Jonsered dealer for a couple years but I didn't work on many saws and didn't have much experience with them or the carbs. Saw repairs were not profitable just because of the price of labour vs cost of a new saw so I got out of it and stuck to bikes/sleds/quads. Anyway now i'm just into fixing the old chainsaws just to save an old saw type thing. It's good to learn some stuff from you about these and makes it much more enjoyable. My saw fired right up but once warm started acting up and it's rich. I'll pop it off in the AM and see if I need that check valve. In my kit there was a black rubber tiny nipple I guess is best way I could describe it. Is that my check valve? I'll research that. Anyway going to subscribe glad you made this video it really helps.
Also when testing that seat pressure the lubrication from the fuel/oil helps that needle valve to seal so what I do is squirt a bit of wd40 on the needle then test it. With the fuel it's a more accurate test of how the needle will seal under operating conditions.
Leon's Chainsaw Parts & Repair So I tried a washer on that screw because my carb was leaking like crazy. Worked 100%! Now zero leaks but need crank seals I believe. Checked out your web site for the first time. Wow it's awesome! I have some reading to do for sure. Love the history part of it all and the website is laid out well.
Excellent video. How do you calibrate the spring on Walbro Carburators in order to regulate fuel flow ie 11 PSI verses 17-19 PSI. Not enough PSI RPM's drop off- to much PSI the RPM's increase.
Great job. Good info, shown and explained well. I'm wondering if you have videos on zama carbs, specifically with regard to check valves under the diaphragm.
the ck valve is mostly a hi ck in that only the hi. jet @ idle only affects the fuel/ air in metering chamber as at idle there is vac. on idle jet but pressure (14.7) on hi jet at idle unless hi ck vlve . works and stops incoming air at idle to raise diaph. stopping fuel flo. and filling metering area w air to do starveout at idle. units w purge bulb indicate excess air in bulb and die out @ idle but ok at hi speed as little pressure/ none on hi jet @ hi speed . defective hi ck vlve. prevents normal purge bulb creating vac . to tank , choke only sys. pulls fuel the same but purge bulbs are more affected .
Thanks for your very helpful video, but I am at an impasse. I need a check valve assembly for my Stihl 015 Walbro carburetor, but I cannot find one on ebay or from any other source. Do you have any recommendations about where to find the valve, brass retaining ring, etc.?
Hi Leon, I just rebuilt one of these, and now the engine will start, but floods out shortly thereafter. Watching you video, I may have a bad needle or the bar is too high and needs to be bent. I will also check with a pressure pump to see if there is a function issue. Am I on the right track?
The easy way you can do that is run a screwdriver on top of the carburetor back-and-forth to see if it’s level with the bottom of the screwdriver Like a level that’s how I adjust them
Very nice hands on video, I have always cleaned them put in the kit and hoped for the best can one use their mity vac on the pump side or do I need one of those carb pump setups like you have ,I got one that is slow to start but runs fantastic and restarts with one pull hot ck valve ?like 8 to 10 pulls cold
a mity vac is good and can ck the hi ck valve / hi circuit for free flow, just be very sure carb. is empty of all gas as it also locks up the pump instantly on vac use w gas , plus the mity vac uses a seal on the shaft that wears and reduces pump pressure use.
Thank you for the helpful video. Now I am compelled to mention that this man sounds exactly like Dan Connor (Jon Goodman) from the television sitcom Roseanne. And I am almost positive he was a carburetor man also!
How can I charge to rebuild carburetor because they're so cheap now I hear some of them sell for $20 and some I think are less so I mean if she could chuck $50 to rebuild it I think they would be great but I don't know if customers would pay that?
Hey ! I s that rubber seal almost the same in Tillotson carburators ? I mean the rubber in the check valve ? I suspect they ofthen ar beeing wearn off worn off into peaces. But how th install and replace it on a Tillotson for Jonsereds Raket 60 ? Tillotson HS 21 C. or L 45 ?
Excellent video. Do all 2 cycle carbs have the check valve? Most people stick the welding cleaner pins into all of the holes to clean them out - I guess we might be killing some check valves!?!?
only 2 cycle carbs need it due to metering chamber design. if not working u have idle / prime problems. best to never use pins/wires , just very low pressure air w no carb cleaner to swell rubber/ soft material.
Walbro carbs still does have a lot of the parts left yet for all the Homelite carbs still out there. But I can't tell if the check valve is included in the K10-HDC carb kit from Walbro.
Are you the neighbour from tool time Tim and al I think. The man who only showed his hat and half of his face over his side of the fence , you don`t half sound like him,lol
I have successfully revitalized rubber tipped float needles with a product called ReGrip Rubber Revitalizer. I'm about to test ReGrip on a Walbro HDC carb diaphragm. I bought the cheap Chinese kit on ebay and the metal button on the new diaphragm is too high, so I am attempting to renew the old diaphragm.
@@fishnriver , i only use a very fine tooth file as the dremel heats the material around the pin and can leak. measure the old pin and duplicate. height is relative to gasket thickness and metering lever adjustment.
Leon, a very useful video. Would you know what size circle the actual flexible check valve is? I was wondering if it would be possible to make some using a spare carb diaphragm (the tan coloured pump material) using a hole punch, and if that type of material is the right stuff? I have got plenty of that type of spares in the carb box. Thanks, Steve
@@Raydarnsky Thanks for the reply. From the House of Homelite website I subsequently found out that the valve material is 0.205" diameter - just over 5mm.
don't think a soft flexible material will work as pulses even @ idle is 3k per min. idle to mid range = more freq. w the time and effort plus results it's best to get correct one and be done, but u can check a fully assembled carb w a vac/pressure pump to see if hi circuit is open and hi ck is working ok. if interested on procedure inquire .
Leon you ever use one of those ultrasonic cleaners? I'm thinking of getting a mid range one. I see guys dump the whole carb in there and it usually comes out pretty good. You have any experience with them?
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair I here you. I have about 1 sq foot of working space, 20 sq feet of tools and disassembled chainsaws. Need an ultrasonic parts cleaner and a soda blaster. Can never have enough toys
I have one but never use it on 2 cycle carbs - too many small /delicate parts to damage/ loose , plus down time involved . unless very corroded /rare carb. best to get new if available.
cant quite remember what saw it was but all this is sure rings a bell may have been the big mac i sold not real sure could have been my homelite ..over all my carb was in decent shape other then the rotten diaphragms
I need that EXACT pick, please tell me you know where you can get it? Any time I've had to take that snap ring out of an HD carburetor I half the time booger the crap out of it. Great video btw Leon. Finally getting back to a couple XLs I wanted to fix up for a while, hopefully they won't make me want to swear a lot.
Thanks for all the detailed information. I just purchased all the parts needed to rebuild my old XL from your website. Could you tell me what pressure I should get to before the needle pops?
I know it is a training video but in the real world the time you spent on the carb to put a kit in it and put it on the equipment to find out it will not work it is easier to put a new carb on
So quick question, I noticed the Needle valve was all metal which means more than likely it has a replaceable rubber seat like some of the other Walbro carburetors. Also how important do you find the Popoff pressure is and do you shoot for 15 to 18 PSI?
Everybody can change diaphragm and gaskets. Going deep down to change the check valve takes knowledge and guts. Great job Leon!!
Thanks to you, I just finished a Super 2 early metal body saw. I used your excellent videos to take it on and had great success. New oil and gas lines, duck bills, piston ring, crankshaft seals and a full rebuild of the HDC carb. Purrs like a kitten now and oils the chain properly without bar oil getting into the crankcase. I really appreciate your careful instructions and explanations. Thank you!!
I have been away for a while. Currently working on 4 neglected Homelite chainsaws in an attempt to clear my accumulated projects. You the man....thanks for the detailed vids.
I wish I watched your video before I spent $50 on a Mityvac.I like your pressure gauge setup. 👍🏼
the pressure is great but u need vac guage to check fully assembled carb. for def. hi ck vlve.
Thanks for your insight. I had overlooked the check valve as the cause of not being able to get the saw to perform evenly.
I rebuilt an HDC-65 today. The parts kit (Walbro) had more than one metering arm spring.
The kit instructions list four springs of different colors: COPPER (98-189), BLUE (98-270), GREEN (98-275) and BLACK (98-266).
They are of different lengths and wire gauge.
The old spring was copper-colored and the HDC-65 calls for a black spring. The carb had been rebuilt more than once.
This made me look at the circuit plate gasket and ... it was also wrong. This explained the wet, black spark plug.
And so, I am reminded: when rebuilding a carb on an old machine, always keep in mind that it may have been rebuilt with the wrong parts.
Outstanding video. Great insight🎉Those rubber valves are now $10 to $15 about as much as a new carb. Maybe trying to fab them out of metering diaphragm rubber or acetate with a homemade circular punch tool or metal tubing to get the perfect circular shape. Thats the best option. Otherwise its a new carb.
More manufactured obsolescence
It’s highway robbery now plus shipping charges 😢😢😢
excellent ! I have destroyed my check valve during the disassembly, the old promac 10-10 had exactly the trouble described for hygh speed regime. Now I know that the problem was certainly this small disk. the repairing kit is not easy to find in europe and need to be purshised in USA. Means more than 20 euros, more expensive than a gold disk...well because the seat is removable, thanks to your explanation, I would never guess it was posible, probably I'll try to make a valve with a piece of membrane, and check if I have a leak with your method. A great thank to Leon for sharing his knowledge. And a big pray for the re-birth of my 42 years old chainsaw, make it work again is a real challenge !
If your searching this is by far the best video so far, I prefer more information than most though
I think you might be right, although, and I know this is hard to believe, Taryl gets into the weeds pretty good when he's not fooling around. Was that a run-on sentence? Lemmy no. Oh, let's not forget Steve's. But those guys are general. This site is carbs. Point taken.
You are very knowledgeable and skilled 😊
i second that!!!
You’re knowledge is priceless. Thank you so much for sharing with us. You have helped me learn and make these old saws run again 👍🏻
I just sucseded to fix the checkvalve widh a pice of the old pump diafragm .
6 mm hole punch gave "that little piece of rubber " .
Worked well after straight cut 0,5 mm away from diameter on opposit sides.
Had to take out brass to get it in.
Thanks for the. Size .not going to order a peice of rubber confetti from China that's for shur .Hahaha.
I know this is an older video but it is still a very good tutorial. If a metering needle leaks, first check the seat (magnifier and light are helpful), and try lapping/polishing the needle to the seat to clean it up nicely. If a bit a carburetor cleaner is not enough to remove any imperfections, try a tiny spot of toothpaste - it has just enough fine abrasive to work. Finally, try wetting the needle and seat with a bit of fuel mix. Sometimes that's all it takes to achieve a good seal.
Leon, I’m a few hours north of you on the I-5, in Salem, and I picked up an old craftsman chainsaw the other day at an estate sale for $5. The carb is the last hurdle, as the compression and spark are good. Your videos are a huge help
*Thanks for the awesome vid. I was finally able to get my 4 stihl 015 saws running after watching this. Turns out I had the wrong circuit plate gasket in all 4 units, I was using the Z one and the plates on all of them have 2 holes so they all kept flooding and running super rich. Put the other gasket in and now I can tune them all the way up to 12,500 RPM and they rip.*
Really appreciate this video Leon... I learned alot about proper use of a pressure testers and was able to get my old Husqvarna 140S running like new thanks to you and all the info packed in this video. My next project, tripple Mikuni carb rebuilds on a Yamaha Waverunner. Very similar design and testing techniques as used here. Best Regards, Sam.
I just started rebuilding carbs, found a tillotson that leaked on a brand new needle out of the kit. I stretched the spring but it still leaked. I removed the needle and sprayed carb cleaner in there several times. That did the trick. I suspect that the seat can get just a tiny speck of varnish or stuck debris and that will not allow the needle to seat. Seeing this Walbro compared to a tillotson....I'd go with the tillotson every time, much simpler and I think better designed. Thanks for your superb teaching videos!
Great video on the check valve and the needle sealing! Thank you!
I tell people ethanol and time is a killer of all good things. Always good to record things like this:) Good information.
About to rebuild a Walbro hdb check valve, very informative thank you!
Great job , lots of valuable information, thanks for posting!
I’ve said it before and will say it again, “You’ve got a GREAT voice!” Very easy to listen to and keeps our attention. Greatly needed instructional video. Thank you.
I have found that soaking carb gaskets in some mixed fuel prior to installation helps seal things up. I have had a few dry ones drive me crazy but as soon as I did that, they sealed up fine. Great video btw.
Thanks for the tip. I have never done that before, but it makes sense to me. Trying it now.
I am going to replace the check valves on my HDC's as well. I rebuilt the carbs but I think they need the valves done as well. Also when trying to remove the seat I don't know if you have tried it but with the retainer ring and screen out try turning in a 4mm machine screw by hand and pull it out.
My Xl 2 has a Zama Carb But this video was still helpful thanks.
Thanks for a great video, I have learned something today
Many thanks
Some of the rebuild kits I’ve used have a small hole in the levering dimple for the metering needle .. a small wire in that holds the spring in perfect alignment for assembly
Thanks for sharing the info !
Great video I learned some things.
I have an old Homelite XL-1.
I found a carb kit at NAPA for it. Cleaned it all up and put it together. My kit came with the snap ring for that check valve but I didn't pull that apart.
Anyway I don't think my needle valve is sealing enough. I will try stretching the spring and i'll try a spray bottle to check for leaks. Good time.
I used to have a shop years ago but worked mainly on quads,bikes and sleds. I was a Jonsered dealer for a couple years but I didn't work on many saws and didn't have much experience with them or the carbs.
Saw repairs were not profitable just because of the price of labour vs cost of a new saw so I got out of it and stuck to bikes/sleds/quads.
Anyway now i'm just into fixing the old chainsaws just to save an old saw type thing.
It's good to learn some stuff from you about these and makes it much more enjoyable.
My saw fired right up but once warm started acting up and it's rich. I'll pop it off in the AM and see if I need that check valve. In my kit there was a black rubber tiny nipple I guess is best way I could describe it. Is that my check valve?
I'll research that.
Anyway going to subscribe glad you made this video it really helps.
Also when testing that seat pressure the lubrication from the fuel/oil helps that needle valve to seal so what I do is squirt a bit of wd40 on the needle then test it. With the fuel it's a more accurate test of how the needle will seal under operating conditions.
@@Indeewoods Good point!
Leon's Chainsaw Parts & Repair
So I tried a washer on that screw because my carb was leaking like crazy. Worked 100%! Now zero leaks but need crank seals I believe.
Checked out your web site for the first time. Wow it's awesome! I have some reading to do for sure. Love the history part of it all and the website is laid out well.
I put a Homelite XL2 together today with a Walbro that I know had a bad check valve, it ran fine anyway!
Good video to learn how to chage a seatvalve
great video very helpfull
Thank you for your help
Thank you!
Hardest part is looking up the parts and getting correct parts 😊
Good Job.. with your vid easy to do the same.👍
Thanks for the video
Where can you get the pressure tester
Good place to buy fuel line in bulk
Excellent video. How do you calibrate the spring on Walbro Carburators in order to regulate fuel flow ie 11 PSI verses 17-19 PSI. Not enough PSI RPM's drop off- to much PSI the RPM's increase.
Great job. Good info, shown and explained well. I'm wondering if you have videos on zama carbs, specifically with regard to check valves under the diaphragm.
the ck valve is mostly a hi ck in that only the hi. jet @ idle only affects the fuel/ air in metering chamber as at idle there is vac. on idle jet but pressure (14.7) on hi jet at idle unless hi ck vlve . works and stops incoming air at idle to raise diaph. stopping fuel flo. and filling metering area w air to do starveout at idle. units w purge bulb indicate excess air in bulb and die out @ idle but ok at hi speed as little pressure/ none on hi jet @ hi speed . defective hi ck vlve. prevents normal purge bulb creating vac . to tank , choke only sys. pulls fuel the same but purge bulbs are more affected .
Thank you!!!
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Lololo you sound like me fighting that dang little spring and my 72 year old fingers
Thanks for your very helpful video, but I am at an impasse. I need a check valve assembly for my Stihl 015 Walbro carburetor, but I cannot find one on ebay or from any other source. Do you have any recommendations about where to find the valve, brass retaining ring, etc.?
Was havin' trouble with a magnetic screwdriver today. Just gave it a few raps on something hard to show those molequools who's boss.
Hi Leon, I just rebuilt one of these, and now the engine will start, but floods out shortly thereafter. Watching you video, I may have a bad needle or the bar is too high and needs to be bent. I will also check with a pressure pump to see if there is a function issue. Am I on the right track?
The easy way you can do that is run a screwdriver on top of the carburetor back-and-forth to see if it’s level with the bottom of the screwdriver Like a level that’s how I adjust them
I got a plastic piece that came off my chainsaw efco 5600 by the carburetor somewhere and don't know we're it goes
Very nice hands on video, I have always cleaned them put in the kit and hoped for the best can one use their mity vac on the pump side or do I need one of those carb pump setups like you have ,I got one that is slow to start but runs fantastic and restarts with one pull hot ck valve ?like 8 to 10 pulls cold
The Mity vac on the pump side works just fine. A slow starter usually indicates a slightly stiff diaphragm or partially plugged fuel filter.
a mity vac is good and can ck the hi ck valve / hi circuit for free flow, just be very sure carb. is empty of all gas as it also locks up the pump instantly on vac use w gas , plus the mity vac uses a seal on the shaft that wears and reduces pump pressure use.
Thanks for the video. Dd you replace the snap ring on top off the check valve?
It was pre assembles screen and clip in the brass ! Just had to bash it in the hole .Hahaha
Thank you for the helpful video. Now I am compelled to mention that this man sounds exactly like Dan Connor (Jon Goodman) from the television sitcom Roseanne. And I am almost positive he was a carburetor man also!
How can I charge to rebuild carburetor because they're so cheap now I hear some of them sell for $20 and some I think are less so I mean if she could chuck $50 to rebuild it I think they would be great but I don't know if customers would pay that?
Hey ! I s that rubber seal almost the same in Tillotson carburators ? I mean the rubber in the check valve ? I suspect they ofthen ar beeing wearn off worn off into peaces. But how th install and replace it on a Tillotson for Jonsereds Raket 60 ? Tillotson HS 21 C. or L 45 ?
What's up with the HDC 69 carburetor that has no high-speed adjustment only the low side and idle?
The kit doesn't have the o-rings for the adjustment needles either
Excellent video. Do all 2 cycle carbs have the check valve? Most people stick the welding cleaner pins into all of the holes to clean them out - I guess we might be killing some check valves!?!?
only 2 cycle carbs need it due to metering chamber design. if not working u have idle / prime problems. best to never use pins/wires , just very low pressure air w no carb cleaner to swell rubber/ soft material.
Walbro carbs still does have a lot of the parts left yet for all the Homelite carbs still out there. But I can't tell if the check valve is included in the K10-HDC carb kit from Walbro.
No it isn't, but it sure as hell should be!
Are you the neighbour from tool time Tim and al I think.
The man who only showed his hat and half of his face over his side of the fence ,
you don`t half sound like him,lol
I have successfully revitalized rubber tipped float needles with a product called ReGrip Rubber Revitalizer. I'm about to test ReGrip on a Walbro HDC carb diaphragm. I bought the cheap Chinese kit on ebay and the metal button on the new diaphragm is too high, so I am attempting to renew the old diaphragm.
Try useing a dremel tool or similar tool to grind down the button to match the old one.
@@fishnriver , i only use a very fine tooth file as the dremel heats the material around the pin and can leak. measure the old pin and duplicate. height is relative to gasket thickness and metering lever adjustment.
Leon, a very useful video. Would you know what size circle the actual flexible check valve is? I was wondering if it would be possible to make some using a spare carb diaphragm (the tan coloured pump material) using a hole punch, and if that type of material is the right stuff? I have got plenty of that type of spares in the carb box. Thanks, Steve
I'm wondering the same. I wonder if a paper hole punch would make the right size, or if you could make a custom size punch to make them
Try a leather punch, some have multiple size punches and one might fit. I ordered a new check valve, I'll measure it when it get here.
@@Raydarnsky Thanks for the reply. From the House of Homelite website I subsequently found out that the valve material is 0.205" diameter - just over 5mm.
don't think a soft flexible material will work as pulses even @ idle is 3k per min. idle to mid range = more freq. w the time and effort plus results it's best to get correct one and be done, but u can check a fully assembled carb w a vac/pressure pump to see if hi circuit is open and hi ck is working ok. if interested on procedure inquire .
Leon you ever use one of those ultrasonic cleaners? I'm thinking of getting a mid range one. I see guys dump the whole carb in there and it usually comes out pretty good. You have any experience with them?
I don't have any experience, but have heard very good things about them. One is on my wish list, but I need some more space before I get one!
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair I here you. I have about 1 sq foot of working space, 20 sq feet of tools and disassembled chainsaws. Need an ultrasonic parts cleaner and a soda blaster. Can never have enough toys
I have one but never use it on 2 cycle carbs - too many small /delicate parts to damage/ loose , plus down time involved . unless very corroded /rare carb. best to get new if available.
I need that valve ...any chance you have the part #????
Do you have the part number by chance Thanks
Hi
Can`t you just get rubber gasket material that is petrol resistant and centre punch your own welch plug rubber circular part
cant quite remember what saw it was but all this is sure rings a bell may have been the big mac i sold not real sure could have been my homelite ..over all my carb was in decent shape other then the rotten diaphragms
great info on that hdc!
I have a broken metering lever on my hdc for my super ez.
can you sell me one?
I need that EXACT pick, please tell me you know where you can get it? Any time I've had to take that snap ring out of an HD carburetor I half the time booger the crap out of it. Great video btw Leon. Finally getting back to a couple XLs I wanted to fix up for a while, hopefully they won't make me want to swear a lot.
its a dentist tool, check Ebay etc. there are a lot of useful styles
Dampen your gasket with a little motor oil … helps them seal
Wild guess. Oregon accent? Just a guess.
How to demagnetized a screwdriver - heat it red hot with a torch and let it cool off.
PICK UP CARB WHEN PUTTING IN NEEDLE
Great video! Is that a handmade pressure tester? If so do you have a parts list or where I might find parts to make this.
I've been looking all over for something like one of these and can't find one!
@@alwade24 Home made. Looks like a pump from a blood pressure testing cuff.
Thanks for all the detailed information. I just purchased all the parts needed to rebuild my old XL from your website. Could you tell me what pressure I should get to before the needle pops?
Pop off and reset values are in this video from Walbro: th-cam.com/video/cDaOcNrS6BM/w-d-xo.html
My size 16 ring finger and such dont like this tiny stuff
Les mains sont devant la caméra,on ne voit rien ?
YOU COULD AT LEAST TURN THE SHOPING BAG AROUND AND START CLEAN SO WE CAN SEE ,
I know it is a training video but in the real world the time you spent on the carb to put a kit in it and put it on the equipment to find out it will not work it is easier to put a new carb on
I'm afraid not. You won't find a new carb for a saw this old. And if you do what I do in the video, it will work.
So quick question, I noticed the Needle valve was all metal which means more than likely it has a replaceable rubber seat like some of the other Walbro carburetors. Also how important do you find the Popoff pressure is and do you shoot for 15 to 18 PSI?
Where can I purchase that tester mate?