Just did this yesterday in my 2001 Silverado 5.3, thought it was a good idea to change the seal since I was already in there due to transmission replacement. My engine was dry but at 110k miles I know it was just a matter of time, my heart sank when I removed the plate and saw there were no dowel pins to align the plate so I knew this was going to be dicey. The factory seal was still holding up well but my instincts told me to just replace it, so the new felpro kit bs40640 went in there. I put a small bead of rtv black silicone at the corners and outer lip of the oil pan where there is no sealing material from the pan gasket for insurance, I didn't know how crucial this simple seal replacement was designed to be but I think I did ok. I installed the seal on to the plate and when putting it back I allowed the seal to center it self onto the crank by not putting any pressure on it while inserting the bolts. The bottom bolts where last as to be torqued down as I knew this bad design was going to pull down on the cover and misaligned the cover and seal, the rtv I put in there should compensate for anything the factory seal (not covered with rtv) can't seal. I still need to finish the transmission install but did a little research to see what was the deal with gm's crappy rear main seal design.
great vid great tool, best bang for your buck, but I seen you look back down because you realized you put it in backwards. The rear seal states which side is out. I'm gonna buy the tool I may never use it wish I had it like today but one day when I die my kids kid will get old Papas tools (grandfather). Thanks!!!!
So did you install the seal facing the correct way. I thought the lip goes in facing the engine? In this video it appears that the lip is facing away from the engine. Which way is the correct way?
PTFE type seals go in DRY. Some have the lip facing IN and some have it facing OUT, depending on the design of the seal. The new Dormans and Fel-pros have the lip facing out. I know this seems all wrong to us old guys, but it is correct. With these type, no inner sleeve is necessary to keep the lip out till it is installed. Again this is dependent on the design of the particular seal you are installing. It can be opposite of the factory seal that is removed, or it can be the same way. If in doubt, check the seal manufacturers website, but don't worry, sometimes they DO face outward.
Zo6LS7427 If you have a ridge worn in your crank from the seal, install it opposite so the seal doesnt ride the worn out area. I once filled the crank ridge in with JB weld and a razor blade, sanded it and it still runs around town to this day. Lol
For my 6 L Vortex engine (LQ4) the factory manual says to use J41479 installation tool, which includes a tapered cone (attached to crankshaft) to ease the seal onto the crankshaft. In the video, no tapered cone is used. Can I omit the tapered cone when using the Alignit tool?
Hello, i have a question. From what i understand, instead of having to buy the alignment tool and a new seal and have to do all that you just showed, i could just purchase (from dealership) the seal kit which is the seal already pre-factory installed onto the plate, kit also comes with new gasket and bolts, wouldn't that be a better way to go ? the seal would already be pressed into the plate and all one would have to do is install and bolt down? Why would one way be better (if at all) then other? Would you still need to align if the seal was already pressed onto the plate before installing????? Seems to me (and i could be very wrong)that if having the kit (seal pressed onto plate) all i would need to do is slide in on to the crank then bolt down. Thanks for your experience/insight on matter. Thank you.
If you buy the dorman the seal is already in the cover the tool is stupid for people who buy the full kit, removing the seal can damage it now if you just buy the seal this tool is worth its weight in gold.
This tool looks like it would work very well but why would you not make a new video and install the rear main the right way. This video has 70k views and is misleading to the people who are trying to install a rear main seal correctly. 1. You put it in backwards. 2. You didn't even break clean off the rear of the crankshaft.
No one has been mislead. I believe that if someone is capable of rebuilding their engine or pulling their trans to do a rear main seal they are smart enough to put the seal in correctly. Also, as I said above the seal was installed correctly. Why would I brake clean the crank? Do you think a little clean oil is going to hurt the seal? Haven't had one leak yet. Thanks Christian
Hi all. I see some here say that I installed the seal backwards, that is not true, I put the seal in the correct way, not backwards. Thanks everyone for watching and all your comments. Christian
Everybody here is talking about the alignment tool and nobody is addressing the real problem, im a ASE CERTIFY MASTER TECHNICIAN, and hands down this is a BAD sealing design by GMC this is a complete failure by there engineers to build such a poorly design powerplant! POOR DESIGN PERIOD! get it together guys meaning GM, FORD, CHRSYLER.Stop letting european and asian manufactureer out engineer and design you guys in the automotive industry!
I really like your alignment tools and they make assembly a snap. Thanks for an affordable set of tools. You guys ROCK...
Just did this yesterday in my 2001 Silverado 5.3, thought it was a good idea to change the seal since I was already in there due to transmission replacement.
My engine was dry but at 110k miles I know it was just a matter of time, my heart sank when I removed the plate and saw there were no dowel pins to align the plate so I knew this was going to be dicey. The factory seal was still holding up well but my instincts told me to just replace it, so the new felpro kit bs40640 went in there. I put a small bead of rtv black silicone at the corners and outer lip of the oil pan where there is no sealing material from the pan gasket for insurance, I didn't know how crucial this simple seal replacement was designed to be but I think I did ok. I installed the seal on to the plate and when putting it back I allowed the seal to center it self onto the crank by not putting any pressure on it while inserting the bolts. The bottom bolts where last as to be torqued down as I knew this bad design was going to pull down on the cover and misaligned the cover and seal, the rtv I put in there should compensate for anything the factory seal (not covered with rtv) can't seal. I still need to finish the transmission install but did a little research to see what was the deal with gm's crappy rear main seal design.
just a dumb question...are you putting any silicone between the oil pan and the rear main seal plate ...just wondering...thanks in adavance
Just bought a kit. Can’t wait to use it. Got many ls builds. Thanks a bunch!
Haha I like the "Interior only" on the bit driver.
great vid great tool, best bang for your buck, but I seen you look back down because you realized you put it in backwards. The rear seal states which side is out. I'm gonna buy the tool I may never use it wish I had it like today but one day when I die my kids kid will get old Papas tools (grandfather). Thanks!!!!
I just bought that tool from your website. Hopefully it goes as smooth as this video install.
Buddyrebel how did it go?
@@joshuaelmer1664 I'm 3 years late but it went well. I'm actually doing the install this weekend again. Still have the tool, it is amazing.
Where can I find the alignment timing tool?
I'm a little confused. if the cover is pulled down tight to the pan, what is the tool actually doing.
You dont even need an alignment tool. Press the seal into the rear cover, then install the cover with the seal in it.
Serves a crucial role: allowing boomers to feel smug and superior for knowing the “only correct” way to do this job.
So did you install the seal facing the correct way. I thought the lip goes in facing the engine? In this video it appears that the lip is facing away from the engine. Which way is the correct way?
PTFE type seals go in DRY. Some have the lip facing IN and some have it facing OUT, depending on the design of the seal. The new Dormans and Fel-pros have the lip facing out. I know this seems all wrong to us old guys, but it is correct. With these type, no inner sleeve is necessary to keep the lip out till it is installed. Again this is dependent on the design of the particular seal you are installing. It can be opposite of the factory seal that is removed, or it can be the same way. If in doubt, check the seal manufacturers website, but don't worry, sometimes they DO face outward.
Zo6LS7427 If you have a ridge worn in your crank from the seal, install it opposite so the seal doesnt ride the worn out area. I once filled the crank ridge in with JB weld and a razor blade, sanded it and it still runs around town to this day. Lol
I notice you put the seal one way and then turned the other side is this that right way or not advise please thanks and were do I buy the tool
For my 6 L Vortex engine (LQ4) the factory manual says to use J41479 installation tool, which includes a tapered cone (attached to crankshaft) to ease the seal onto the crankshaft. In the video, no tapered cone is used. Can I omit the tapered cone when using the Alignit tool?
Pan should be installed after the engine end covers.
Proper sequencing for success.
I already have your rear main seal tool... is that the same tool?
GM helms manual for ls1 says do not lube inner diameter of rear main seal. Is this not counter to what that manual states?
Hello, i have a question.
From what i understand, instead of having to buy the alignment tool and a new seal and have to do all that you just showed, i could just purchase (from dealership) the seal kit which is the seal already pre-factory installed onto the plate, kit also comes with new gasket and bolts, wouldn't that be a better way to go ? the seal would already be pressed into the plate and all one would have to do is install and bolt down? Why would one way be better (if at all) then other? Would you still need to align if the seal was already pressed onto the plate before installing????? Seems to me (and i could be very wrong)that if having the kit (seal pressed onto plate) all i would need to do is slide in on to the crank then bolt down.
Thanks for your experience/insight on matter.
Thank you.
The alignment tool is for the cover plate, not the rubber seal that goes into the plate.
Where do I get one of those and will it work for an LS4?
Mine works a treat. Great product.
I notice some are saying to install dry. Did you lube the seal and crank or install dry?
Never install a seal try u could damage it, a little lube help it slide in and seal!
Interior only!
how much does this tool cost?
Looks like he still has the original oil bypass barbell installed , I thought they sold that part hmmmm
If you buy the dorman the seal is already in the cover the tool is stupid for people who buy the full kit, removing the seal can damage it now if you just buy the seal this tool is worth its weight in gold.
Does it really work? Anybody purchase & used it, want to know if it's worth it. Anybody?
This tool looks like it would work very well but why would you not make a new video and install the rear main the right way. This video has 70k views and is misleading to the people who are trying to install a rear main seal correctly. 1. You put it in backwards. 2. You didn't even break clean off the rear of the crankshaft.
No one has been mislead. I believe that if someone is capable of rebuilding their engine or pulling their trans to do a rear main seal they are smart enough to put the seal in correctly. Also, as I said above the seal was installed correctly. Why would I brake clean the crank? Do you think a little clean oil is going to hurt the seal? Haven't had one leak yet.
Thanks
Christian
crashnburnxvx I prefer the way it was installed because if you flip it around, you would be hammering on the surface that is meant for alignment
great video thank you
good work maan !!
Yes
👍😎
haha. he said first thing i need to do, is lube up my tool.
Hi all.
I see some here say that I installed the seal backwards, that is not true, I put the seal in the correct way, not backwards.
Thanks everyone for watching and all your comments.
Christian
Everybody here is talking about the alignment tool and nobody is addressing the real problem, im a ASE CERTIFY MASTER TECHNICIAN, and hands down this is a BAD sealing design by GMC this is a complete failure by there engineers to build such a poorly design powerplant! POOR DESIGN PERIOD! get it together guys meaning GM, FORD, CHRSYLER.Stop letting european and asian manufactureer out engineer and design you guys in the automotive industry!
I agree ! Why did they Not Pinned these covers to engine block for the front and rear seals?
@@Mfil Exactly all they need to do is dowel the covers to the engine block, which would perfectly align the seal! End of story!