@@Halligan142 love staybrite! Unfortunately my current employer is Stuck on brazing. Not to mention they had been brazing without a nitro purge until I got there.
Please make more HVAC videos. I watched every single video of yours. I want to learn more from you. Thank you very much. I really appreciate it. I love the video quality you upload as well. Please do more HVACR videos. Wish you the best
I agree with you 100%. I’ve used silver solder and heard other guys complain that I’m not doing things “right” because of the “low” melting temp and lower tensile strength (10,000 PSI solder vs. 80,000 PSI brazing). Lemme tell ya, if your discharge temp is exceeding 400 degrees Fahrenheit and your high side pressure is above 10,000 PSI you’ve got other things to be worrying about other than solder vs. brazing... good video, thanks!
Hey this is the first video I've watched of yours and it's really awesome seeing what you do in the field. Im two months into my pre apprenticeship program and much of what was going on was clicking for me! Looking forward to watching them all.
Soft solder is the best. I asked the a/c guy across the street working why he didn’t use it. He had never heard of it. He said it’s only for plumbing. I told him they make a special one for a/c but he thought I was an idiot.
You were right. All these old farts giving you grief over stay brite 8. I was amazed how you repaired the leaky coil with sb 8. I'm like hell yeah. Staybrite all the way baby. Killer video. You inspire me dude..
We have the same problem with coils inside laboratory refrigerators leaking in the middle. If you cut the tubing and measure it with a caliper it is half the thickness of the older coils. Everything is made cheaper now. Nice repair, Thanks
R-407c is a mix of R-32, R-125, and R-134a. It's not recommended to charge an R-22 system with it unless you've recovered the R-22 prior to adding it (i.e. no mixing). In this mix, the ratio of R-32 provides the capacity, the R-125 controls the flammability, and R-134a reduces the pressure.
good work, only just getting into refrigeration, chillers and so on, do you need to have nitrogen going through the pipework whilst soldering? with a braze you do to help keep it clean internally? cheers!
That was an easy compressor change out with no acid in the lines. Most of the new residential units have the compressors mounted in the middle of the coil and you need a special tool to lift the old compressor out of the coil and drop the new compressor back in. Back in the 80’s, most of the compressors were more accessible and located on the side of the condensing unit.
Greg, Another day in the life of an HVAC tech. Thanks for the video! I always enjoy these since I had to deal with a lot of the same issues do when I did service in direct mail and quick print. Lots stuff with interlocks and sensors that could really spoil your day trying to trace down a problem. The thing I loved is when a machine operator would bypass a sensor or interlock and then wonder why a drive motor or one of the control boards burned up or a relay's contacts welded together! Thanks again! Don't forget the sunscreen! Have a good one! Dave
Swarf Rat This was a fairly simple unit electrically. Sometimes though there's like 3 miles of wires in there. Best is tracking down a low voltage short through those units.
Great Job! I really like the coil fix, probably saved the customer a bunch of money for a new coil. I am not sure if the old mineral oil could go acidic? Do you know? As far as I know POE oil is an ester which splits into acid and alcohol when adding water?
Philipp Freytag We checked the oil with test strips after removing the old compressor. Mineral is a lot less finicky than POE and doesn't absorb moisture as easily.
#8 all day everyday ... no more baked goods or burnt down houses or cooked insulation ... I've had 410a txvs slammed shut running up too 600 psi never lost a #8 joint
I had a heat pump liquid line that was soft soldered, and the heat from the line caused it to melt and separate from the valve. I had to repair that and the brazing rod would not mix with the solder. So I had to hack the valve to get new copper.
Soft solder is the reason factory joints fail. 15% silver alloy is the only way to go. I also use she paced to absorb any residual while working close to or within vicinity of components. I’m sorry but I disagree with using soft solder when temperatures and pressures get very highNot to mention vibration and other issues. Furthermore as a matter of fact 15% silver Solder is even stronger than copper. I live in the Savannah Georgia area and I’ve been doing HVAC for 25 years. This is just my open yen based on my experience. I like your videos and how clean your work is I just disagree with the solder method. Thank you sir
Definitely would have used Stay Brite :) I use Stay Brite and SB8 routinely and have never had a failure. I will braze under certain circumstances but It has been quite some time since I last bought a pack of Stay Silv 15. I use regular SB for tight fitting joints and SB8 for looser fitups. I have seen suction and discharge valve's on 20+ year old semi-hermetics that had the vibration isolators soldered on with SB and they were still holding up. If a SB joint fails its because the guy who soldered it screwed up. Oh, and I also still use analog gauges. They're like a fork - you pick them up and they work.
I’m thinking about using Stay Brite 8 on a 410a system. This seems to be the latest video you have using it. Do you still use that instead of brazing? Thanks
I would like to know where your micron gauge is? Every manufacturer requires that you pull the system down to 500 microns even Copeland.Was this a burnout? If it was why wasn’t clean up procedures done.Acid scavenger will prevent you to have to replace it again on warranty. Glad to see you replaced the contractor. Using a vacuum to check for leaks is a waste of time and not reliable, plus you could be pulling moisture into the system. One more round of nitrogen into the system would have insured no leaks and act like a sponge to remove any non condensables. Other wise you did a nice job. I have used silv-Foss my whole carrier (27 years) soft solder is not recommended of higher pressure refrigerants. I do use a lower melting point solder on TXV’s. Have fun, be safe.
Can't show and don't intend to show every little detail. As I said in the video it is not a burn out. Compressor is locked rotor and refuses to turn. Oil sample was pulled from existing compressor and tested. I use a vacuum gauge head that fits on my Field piece meter. Again done off camera. I always let the vacuum sit for at least ten minutes before charging. While I'm confident in my connections and I check those you never know if another leak is hiding in a place you're not working at. Unit is still running fine. Changed the condenser fan motor this summer as a matter of fact.
Doing some studying on stay-brite #8 and ran across this video. Very impressive. I was looking at using it for mechanical devices such as TXV's and things you don't want so much heat on. I think it will work perfectly for those things. Ive read about, but never seen a coil repaired like that. Will definitely give it a shot when I see one like that in the future. Question: What kind of leak detecting bubbles are you using? I like that neon green, easy to see. Thanks, great vid. #respect
+Jeremy Fairchild TXV's is where this stuff shines. The leak detector is made by Nu-Calgon and should be available in any supply house. Just be careful. You'll want to wipe it off with a wet rag. It will glow under a black-light so it will give you a false positive if you are using dye in the system to leak check.
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES: Staybrite #8 Solidus 221°C (430°F) Liquidus 279°C (535°F) Deposit color - silver Shear Strength (copper lap joint) - 10,600 PSI Electrical conductivity (%IACS) - 16.4 Density (lbs./cu.in.) - 0.271 SOLDERING PROPERTIES: Stay Brite #8 is a lead free solder engineered to provide a strong, ductile connection on copper, brass, steel, and stainless steel. The silver color is also a good color match to stainless steel. Stay Brite #8 differs from Stay Brite as its higher silver content provides a melting range vs. Stay Brite’s single temperature melting point. The melting range makes it suitable for soldering connections with a wider clearance. Stay Brite #8’s low temperature characteristic promotes capillary flow and less base metal distortion and oxidation. Stay Brite #8 is often selected for residential HVAC tube connections as an alternative to brazing. AVAILABLE FORMS: Standard diameters in spools, strip, and rings
Using solder is not the problem for me. Putting flux (non-condensable) on or in a refrigeration pipe is the main issue for me. Have you ever had issues with pressures?
Look at the cutaways in the video. As long as you're not literally du king the entire pipe in the flux you're fine. Silver solder requires a flux also and isn't "controversial". I've never had an issue with flux getting into a system. Also if you've ever replaced a burnt compressor no matter how many times you flush the system there's way more crap in it than you'd ever get with flux.
FYI, Harris frowns on the use of their stay Brite 8 product in any commercial or compressor application. Stay Brite 8 is a great product, but it has its restrictions. Although, the repair will probably be fine, you need to be aware that there can be liability that results from using it in those applications. I personally love the product and use it strictly for residential use, excluding compressors.
Can you explain why you did soldering? we know the temperature of the discharge is lower than 212F, and it will not melt the soft soldering, but the pressure is high. Can the soft soldering hold the pipe under the high pressure at that point?
+Mark Farris System flush. 407C is only compatible with POE oil. We use it when we change compressors in existing r-22 systems. New compressors have POE oil. There can only be a 5% mix of mineral oil to the POE oil which is why it's impractical to use 407C in a unit that you're not changing the compressor. You'd have to remove the compressor, drain it, perform a flush, reinstall the compressor, put in the POE, check oil. If the unit still has a higher than 5% mixture you'd have to do it again. There are more expensive options for R-22 that will mix with Mineral oil (R-422 series for example). They usually also contain Isobutane which I don't like.
Nice vid. Hey, I am 34 years old, just got my EPA license about 3 months ago and I am applying to HVAC companies. I know alot of the stuff is hands on training. But what are some "must knows" I have to know how to do before starting with an HVAC service technician?
Great video and good work ethic. I'm not a huge fan of Stay Brite myself, but you're certainly doing a good job of convincing. I find R407c to be a pain to work with, mostly because of the double pressure/temp chart and the annoying POE oil, but definitely a more cost efficient solution to R22. Here in Montreal, R22 is close to 430$ a bottle plus deposit. Keep them coming and may I suggest a Go Pro??
+David Maynard Yeah 22 is up there here too. We change over when we do compressor changes. All new 22 compressors have POE anyway. We did an experiment with a non critical A/C unit with the customers consent. He's actually waiting for it to die so he can replace it so we made him a deal. He had a leak. We repaired the leak and to see what would happen we charged with 407C without touching the mineral oil. If you read all the bullitens they'd have you believe the compressor would implode in a day. We did it 3-4 years ago and it's still going strong. Not saying it's right or I would do it, but makes you wonder.
There were still a few ammonia refrigerators around when I was a kid. Now you usually find ammonia absorption refrigerators only in RV’s. Ammonia is a great refrigerant that is friendly to the environment and toxic to humans and animals.
Love your videos and it really hurts to leave a negative sounding comment. But, I need to voice my concern about the coil repair. I don't have any problems with soft solder in joints as it's supported all round and mostly in shear under pressure. I have misgivings with a thin unsupported layer of it covering a hole. While your repair may last the life of the unit through all the heat cycles and vibration, as an owner, I would rest easier if you had supported the patch area by maybe cutting a coupling in half and solder the shells over and around the leak. Take care and keep the bubble juice out of your eyes.
Very good video that's probably why the compressor die because of the leak due to low on gas not enough suction gas coming back to cool the compressor don't now why they don't use duel pressure control on A/c like refrigeration pressure control . l know cost but this might save the compressor from dying
Hi mate. How could they have done without that cooling for five years? And also, did the other compressor stop because of the leak, or was the compressor just broken? How do you know if you had gotten all the moister out of the system, because it had been open for a long, long time. It was a nice and easy find that leak, it most have been a weak point in the pipe, to go top and bottom like that. Strange. Nice job though. Marcel.
Marcel Timmers It's been about 2-3 years since we found the dead compressor. They have 2 other units that split the store in the middle and the back. This is in the front which is just basically a customer waiting area. This is a take-out only place. The other two units have been keeping up untill now. The center unit is old and tired and this year has been hotter than the past 2. I diagnosed the original call as a dead compressor. It had refrigerant in it, but the compressor was locked rotor. Just humming and clicking. I tried replaceing the cap, but still couldn't get it to go. The leak could have possibly caused that from poor oil return. Since I couldn't get it to run I wouldn't be able to determine if it was low on refrigerant or not. Using a Micron gauge you can tell when you've removed any and all moisture from the system. I din't show that on camera.
stay brite flux has its place no doubt,the problem is if used incorrectly it will ooze its way in and contaminate the system blocking an orifice,txv,capillary line ect...,patching a hole on a line such as a condenser with solder will have a tendency to drip inside and can form miniature pellets and will again work its way to a metering device.secondly wheres your micron gauge.
+Denis L I agree it has to be used correctly and I see it used incorrectly all the time. Bottles have a brush for a reason and all you need is a slight skim coat. I did a video where i did a video where I cut a joint apart to see flux infiltration and there was none. I use the micron gauge that attaches to my Fieldpiece meter. Didn't show any video of it connected and it was removed from the line for charging.
If you had taken the rubber feet off the old compressor and moved them over to the new one you wouldn't have had to mess with the pipes, the bolts would hve been the correct length and it would isolate vibration.
Issue: Is Stay-brite-8 approved to use on the refrigerant piping? Product line: All DX units Environment: Data Center Cooling Cause: Resolution: Stay-brite 8 (SB8) is chemically suitable for a copper to stainless joint , however not for our commercial equipment. Its make up is 94% tin 6% silver which makes it a high temperature solder, not a brazing material. A Silver commercial joint is a stronger joint to withstand systems vibrations and does not "flow" like solder. commercial can ribbon into the piping, causing restrictions and other operational issues such as shearing (piping being pushed out of the fitting with commercial still attached to both surfaces) and ultimate decoupling of the joint. Commercial is a solder and our connections need to be brazed. commercial is liquid at 535ºF. Brazing takes place at temperatures above 800ºF. Soldering takes place at temperatures below 800ºF, therefore, using commercial is not brazing. NOTE: If any contractor suggests its use, it is to be denied.
I work almost exclusively on CRAC’s and I agree he should be using braze rod. The flux is a potential contaminate as well. As far as I see it is if you can’t braze why are you in the trade.
@@JohnnyOShmere just because things have been done a certain way doesn't mean its best way. new ways are always being discovered and are improvement over old techniques
Brazing has its benefits... but it has its down points also... Staybright 8 has a bursting point of 10,000 to 14,000 PSI... if done properly it is stronger than dynaflow 15 because it uses less heat and does not change the condition of the copper fitting... the high temp of brazing changes the coppers molecular structure making it weak..... I used Staybright 3% for years...now we braze everything... but now that Harris has come out with the Staybright #8... I am going back to the low temp soldering ... no need to purge with nitrogen...clean, strong joints, less heat and better penetration... If you ever have had to braze in a reversing valve in a GEO you would appreciate this technology.... don't knock it till you tried it...
NIce work !! I am also a HVAC contractor located In Baltimore Maryland and I have had great success finding refrigerant leaks in HVAC systems with a total loss of charge using Nitrogen and a Accutrak Ultrasonic leak detector for about 6 years now. The Accutrak Ultrasonic Leak Detector works great and I use about 300 PSI Nitrogen charge and when you get even 12" of a small leak it sounds like a jet plane in the headset !! You should look into getting one and I have turned on about 25 + fellow HVAC techs who also have great results as well using the Accutrak Ultrasonic Leak Detector !! I satered to use "STAY BRITE" about 30 years ago and my coworkers thought I was crazy. The old flux was in a squirt bottle and was like liquid and if you got it into a cut man you talk about burning lol !! I use to work for a exclusive LENNOX dealer in Baltimore Maryland and LENNOX Industrys engineers are the ones who suggested using "STAY BRITE" on their HVAC equipment on installs to avoid Oxidation from Brazing and of course if you use a low flow Nitrogen Regulator while brazing that should ot be a problem at all. Keep up the great work !! Here is a link to the Accutrack website !! superiorsignal.com/superior-accutrak
Great work, you won't get any crap from me for using staybrite 8. The stuff works great!
Rob HVAC Thanks!
@@Halligan142 love staybrite! Unfortunately my current employer is Stuck on brazing. Not to mention they had been brazing without a nitro purge until I got there.
I’m a true believer in Stay-Brite 8. It’s great stuff.
Very well done. Stay brite 8 was the best choice. Nice work
Nice work! I liked the idea of using a knife to cut the fins, i have just torn them off with pliers in the past.
heavydiesel A new HSS knife blade cut through them real nice.
Love these day in the life hvac vids. Make more if you can
Please make more HVAC videos. I watched every single video of yours. I want to learn more from you.
Thank you very much. I really appreciate it. I love the video quality you upload as well.
Please do more HVACR videos.
Wish you the best
I agree with you 100%. I’ve used silver solder and heard other guys complain that I’m not doing things “right” because of the “low” melting temp and lower tensile strength (10,000 PSI solder vs. 80,000 PSI brazing). Lemme tell ya, if your discharge temp is exceeding 400 degrees Fahrenheit and your high side pressure is above 10,000 PSI you’ve got other things to be worrying about other than solder vs. brazing... good video, thanks!
404 Refrigeration
Thanks for the input !
Hey this is the first video I've watched of yours and it's really awesome seeing what you do in the field. Im two months into my pre apprenticeship program and much of what was going on was clicking for me! Looking forward to watching them all.
Wow. a great way to repair condenser coil leak. Thanks Halligan. You are the man!.
Soft solder is the best. I asked the a/c guy across the street working why he didn’t use it. He had never heard of it. He said it’s only for plumbing. I told him they make a special one for a/c but he thought I was an idiot.
You were right. All these old farts giving you grief over stay brite 8. I was amazed how you repaired the leaky coil with sb 8. I'm like hell yeah. Staybrite all the way baby. Killer video. You inspire me dude..
Most interesting and informative. Great photography and verbal explanation of what your doing and why.
Dan Whiteford THank you!
We have the same problem with coils inside laboratory refrigerators leaking in the middle. If you cut the tubing and measure it with a caliper it is half the thickness of the older coils. Everything is made cheaper now. Nice repair, Thanks
R-407c is a mix of R-32, R-125, and R-134a. It's not recommended to charge an R-22 system with it unless you've recovered the R-22 prior to adding it (i.e. no mixing). In this mix, the ratio of R-32 provides the capacity, the R-125 controls the flammability, and R-134a reduces the pressure.
good work, only just getting into refrigeration, chillers and so on, do you need to have nitrogen going through the pipework whilst soldering?
with a braze you do to help keep it clean internally? cheers!
Great repair on the coil, thanks for sharing.
The pros always make everything look so easy, great stuff.
That was an easy compressor change out with no acid in the lines. Most of the new residential units have the compressors mounted in the middle of the coil and you need a special tool to lift the old compressor out of the coil and drop the new compressor back in. Back in the 80’s, most of the compressors were more accessible and located on the side of the condensing unit.
Greg,
Another day in the life of an HVAC tech. Thanks for the video! I always enjoy these since I had to deal with a lot of the same issues do when I did service in direct mail and quick print. Lots stuff with interlocks and sensors that could really spoil your day trying to trace down a problem. The thing I loved is when a machine operator would bypass a sensor or interlock and then wonder why a drive motor or one of the control boards burned up or a relay's contacts welded together! Thanks again! Don't forget the sunscreen!
Have a good one!
Dave
Swarf Rat This was a fairly simple unit electrically. Sometimes though there's like 3 miles of wires in there. Best is tracking down a low voltage short through those units.
I cannot believe I just watched you put soft solder on those joints!!!
JOSHUA RICKS it’s get his repeats work when it fails within a year. He know what he is doing
@@pelway7561 what bullshit.
stay brite 8 works perfectly fine.
Do you work for yourself? If not, how'd you talk your boss into letting you use soft solder?
I work for a company. He uses it too.
Great Job! I really like the coil fix, probably saved the customer a bunch of money for a new coil. I am not sure if the old mineral oil could go acidic? Do you know? As far as I know POE oil is an ester which splits into acid and alcohol when adding water?
Philipp Freytag We checked the oil with test strips after removing the old compressor. Mineral is a lot less finicky than POE and doesn't absorb moisture as easily.
Good work. Never thought you could make a repair on a condenser.
Love that S-B 8. Good work.
#8 all day everyday ... no more baked goods or burnt down houses or cooked insulation ... I've had 410a txvs slammed shut running up too 600 psi never lost a #8 joint
its not just the heat, its the vibration that makes the stay brite weeker
I had a heat pump liquid line that was soft soldered, and the heat from the line caused it to melt and separate from the valve. I had to repair that and the brazing rod would not mix with the solder. So I had to hack the valve to get new copper.
You can’t mix hard solder with soft there it will never take I learned that the hard way long ago
was there solder joints in that unit from factory?
Soft solder is the reason factory joints fail. 15% silver alloy is the only way to go. I also use she paced to absorb any residual while working close to or within vicinity of components. I’m sorry but I disagree with using soft solder when temperatures and pressures get very highNot to mention vibration and other issues. Furthermore as a matter of fact 15% silver Solder is even stronger than copper. I live in the Savannah Georgia area and I’ve been doing HVAC for 25 years. This is just my open yen based on my experience. I like your videos and how clean your work is I just disagree with the solder method. Thank you sir
Es lo que note , el tipo de soldadura suave (parece de estaño) para el equipo que maneja mas de 250 psi en alta...
Are you using plummers soldering??why wouldnt you use the 5% silver soldering rod fr AC??
Look up Stay-Brite #8
Definitely would have used Stay Brite :) I use Stay Brite and SB8 routinely and have never had a failure. I will braze under certain circumstances but It has been quite some time since I last bought a pack of Stay Silv 15. I use regular SB for tight fitting joints and SB8 for looser fitups. I have seen suction and discharge valve's on 20+ year old semi-hermetics that had the vibration isolators soldered on with SB and they were still holding up. If a SB joint fails its because the guy who soldered it screwed up.
Oh, and I also still use analog gauges. They're like a fork - you pick them up and they work.
I’m thinking about using Stay Brite 8 on a 410a system. This seems to be the latest video you have using it. Do you still use that instead of brazing? Thanks
I would like to know where your micron gauge is? Every manufacturer requires that you pull the system down to 500 microns even Copeland.Was this a burnout? If it was why wasn’t clean up procedures done.Acid scavenger will prevent you to have to replace it again on warranty. Glad to see you replaced the contractor. Using a vacuum to check for leaks is a waste of time and not reliable, plus you could be pulling moisture into the system. One more round of nitrogen into the system would have insured no leaks and act like a sponge to remove any non condensables. Other wise you did a nice job. I have used silv-Foss my whole carrier (27 years) soft solder is not recommended of higher pressure refrigerants. I do use a lower melting point solder on TXV’s. Have fun, be safe.
Can't show and don't intend to show every little detail. As I said in the video it is not a burn out. Compressor is locked rotor and refuses to turn. Oil sample was pulled from existing compressor and tested. I use a vacuum gauge head that fits on my Field piece meter. Again done off camera. I always let the vacuum sit for at least ten minutes before charging. While I'm confident in my connections and I check those you never know if another leak is hiding in a place you're not working at. Unit is still running fine. Changed the condenser fan motor this summer as a matter of fact.
Great video! Is this still holding up? No issues with vibrations?
That was awesome to watch, thanks for the work and for the videoing (a work in itself, too)
I been using SB8 for a while I really like using it on TXV . Your not cooking the valve . Good video
Doing some studying on stay-brite #8 and ran across this video. Very impressive. I was looking at using it for mechanical devices such as TXV's and things you don't want so much heat on. I think it will work perfectly for those things. Ive read about, but never seen a coil repaired like that. Will definitely give it a shot when I see one like that in the future. Question: What kind of leak detecting bubbles are you using? I like that neon green, easy to see. Thanks, great vid. #respect
+Jeremy Fairchild TXV's is where this stuff shines. The leak detector is made by Nu-Calgon and should be available in any supply house. Just be careful. You'll want to wipe it off with a wet rag. It will glow under a black-light so it will give you a false positive if you are using dye in the system to leak check.
As someone who’s thinking about entering this field thank you for posting this.
You do nice work, I have done refrig. work for 30 years.
Ivansgarage Thanks!
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES:
Staybrite #8
Solidus 221°C (430°F)
Liquidus 279°C (535°F)
Deposit color - silver
Shear Strength (copper lap joint) - 10,600 PSI
Electrical conductivity (%IACS) - 16.4
Density (lbs./cu.in.) - 0.271
SOLDERING PROPERTIES:
Stay Brite #8 is a lead free solder engineered to provide a
strong, ductile connection on copper, brass, steel, and stainless
steel. The silver color is also a good color match to stainless
steel. Stay Brite #8 differs from Stay Brite as its higher silver
content provides a melting range vs. Stay Brite’s single
temperature melting point. The melting range makes it suitable
for soldering connections with a wider clearance. Stay Brite #8’s
low temperature characteristic promotes capillary flow and less
base metal distortion and oxidation. Stay Brite #8 is often
selected for residential HVAC tube connections as an alternative
to brazing.
AVAILABLE FORMS:
Standard diameters in spools, strip, and rings
Using solder is not the problem for me. Putting flux (non-condensable) on or in a refrigeration pipe is the main issue for me. Have you ever had issues with pressures?
Look at the cutaways in the video. As long as you're not literally du king the entire pipe in the flux you're fine. Silver solder requires a flux also and isn't "controversial". I've never had an issue with flux getting into a system. Also if you've ever replaced a burnt compressor no matter how many times you flush the system there's way more crap in it than you'd ever get with flux.
FYI, Harris frowns on the use of their stay Brite 8 product in any commercial or compressor application. Stay Brite 8 is a great product, but it has its restrictions.
Although, the repair will probably be fine, you need to be aware that there can be liability that results from using it in those applications.
I personally love the product and use it strictly for residential use, excluding compressors.
Can you explain why you did soldering? we know the temperature of the discharge is lower than 212F, and it will not melt the soft soldering, but the pressure is high. Can the soft soldering hold the pipe under the high pressure at that point?
hau nguyen because he know it’s will fail and it’s repeat business
that soft solder can hold pressure upto 10,000 PSI. so its perfectly safe to use it on discharge line
Nice job! Thanks for sharing.
Dude, thanks so much for your videos, I learn atleast 1 new trick every time.
Nice job and great video ! Thanks for taking the time to make it.
do you have to change schader cores with 407 c or just flush with r11 flush, the phase out is coming and I need to explore options for customers
+Mark Farris System flush. 407C is only compatible with POE oil. We use it when we change compressors in existing r-22 systems. New compressors have POE oil. There can only be a 5% mix of mineral oil to the POE oil which is why it's impractical to use 407C in a unit that you're not changing the compressor. You'd have to remove the compressor, drain it, perform a flush, reinstall the compressor, put in the POE, check oil. If the unit still has a higher than 5% mixture you'd have to do it again. There are more expensive options for R-22 that will mix with Mineral oil (R-422 series for example). They usually also contain Isobutane which I don't like.
Nice vid. Hey, I am 34 years old, just got my EPA license about 3 months ago and I am applying to HVAC companies. I know alot of the stuff is hands on training. But what are some "must knows" I have to know how to do before starting with an HVAC service technician?
Enjoy your videos as usual
Thanks Rod
Great video and good work ethic. I'm not a huge fan of Stay Brite myself, but you're certainly doing a good job of convincing. I find R407c to be a pain to work with, mostly because of the double pressure/temp chart and the annoying POE oil, but definitely a more cost efficient solution to R22. Here in Montreal, R22 is close to 430$ a bottle plus deposit.
Keep them coming and may I suggest a Go Pro??
+David Maynard
Yeah 22 is up there here too. We change over when we do compressor changes. All new 22 compressors have POE anyway. We did an experiment with a non critical A/C unit with the customers consent. He's actually waiting for it to die so he can replace it so we made him a deal. He had a leak. We repaired the leak and to see what would happen we charged with 407C without touching the mineral oil. If you read all the bullitens they'd have you believe the compressor would implode in a day. We did it 3-4 years ago and it's still going strong. Not saying it's right or I would do it, but makes you wonder.
Let me get this right: capillary action makes solder seep in the hole and forms a bubble on the other inside end?
capillary action doesn't form bubble. the surface tension of solder will bridge the hole and keep it flat until the solder solidifies.
I thought you should not use soft solder due to weak mechanical strength but I could be wrong
Nice to see it done right....was just fired for taking the time to do it right. Was the cond fan motor running or was that just a trick of the camera?
Drew F Just the camera. It is a slower moving motor like 800 or 1000 RPM a two blade fan so the shutter speed makes it look funny
Man I miss working on these., Ever work with ammonia refrigeration? - Now that's an experience.
Very fragrant. Crazy to think they used to use it in home refrigerators.
There were still a few ammonia refrigerators around when I was a kid. Now you usually find ammonia absorption refrigerators only in RV’s. Ammonia is a great refrigerant that is friendly to the environment and toxic to humans and animals.
Love your videos and it really hurts to leave a negative sounding comment. But, I need to voice my concern about the coil repair.
I don't have any problems with soft solder in joints as it's supported all round and mostly in shear under pressure. I have misgivings with a thin unsupported layer of it covering a hole.
While your repair may last the life of the unit through all the heat cycles and vibration, as an owner, I would rest easier if you had supported the patch area by maybe cutting a coupling in half and solder the shells over and around the leak.
Take care and keep the bubble juice out of your eyes.
honestly very unnecessary
Thats how any technician would repair a leak in a coil. You dont physically have room to do what youre asking
Talking everything out is a big help!! Much easier to learn>)
Very good video that's probably why the compressor die because of the leak due to low on gas not enough suction gas coming back to cool the compressor don't now why they don't use duel pressure control on A/c like refrigeration pressure control . l know cost but this might save the compressor from dying
Nice job. Is that a mm scale on your phillips? Who makes that screwdriver?
Nicholas CeeA Yes. The phillips is a Wiha and the Flat Head is a Wera. I prefer the Wiha brand.
Is it me or does it seem Copelands new compressors have thinner stub outs? Maybe a nother good reason to use #8.
Excellent camera work.
Hi man. I'm I right, in this video you are using a solder for low-temperature soldering, which uses only for copper water pipes?
www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Products/Alloys/Soldering/Lead-Free-Solders/stay-brite-8.aspx
Hi there. did you have any restrictions in the metering device?
I always try and sweat out compressors before I cut I just think it's easier to do that than. Cut the copper
I always cut out the driers but some of my coworkers love to use the torch.
Hi mate.
How could they have done without that cooling for five years? And also, did the other compressor stop because of the leak, or was the compressor just broken? How do you know if you had gotten all the moister out of the system, because it had been open for a long, long time. It was a nice and easy find that leak, it most have been a weak point in the pipe, to go top and bottom like that. Strange. Nice job though.
Marcel.
Marcel Timmers It's been about 2-3 years since we found the dead compressor. They have 2 other units that split the store in the middle and the back. This is in the front which is just basically a customer waiting area. This is a take-out only place. The other two units have been keeping up untill now. The center unit is old and tired and this year has been hotter than the past 2. I diagnosed the original call as a dead compressor. It had refrigerant in it, but the compressor was locked rotor. Just humming and clicking. I tried replaceing the cap, but still couldn't get it to go. The leak could have possibly caused that from poor oil return. Since I couldn't get it to run I wouldn't be able to determine if it was low on refrigerant or not. Using a Micron gauge you can tell when you've removed any and all moisture from the system. I din't show that on camera.
***** A micron gauge ay I don't think we had one of those, 20 years ago.
Where is your micron gauge????
@@halligan142 what made you choose Hvac as a career?
Because it's a combination of multiple trades
stay brite flux has its place no doubt,the problem is if used incorrectly it will ooze its way in and contaminate the system blocking an orifice,txv,capillary line ect...,patching a hole on a line such as a condenser with solder will have a tendency to drip inside and can form miniature pellets and will again work its way to a metering device.secondly wheres your micron gauge.
+Denis L
I agree it has to be used correctly and I see it used incorrectly all the time. Bottles have a brush for a reason and all you need is a slight skim coat. I did a video where i did a video where I cut a joint apart to see flux infiltration and there was none. I use the micron gauge that attaches to my Fieldpiece meter. Didn't show any video of it connected and it was removed from the line for charging.
cool! no its great stuff but like you said using it correctly is key.
cheers
Good job
What is the solder used?
skrem63
He uses Stay-Brite 8, link in the description about it. :)
chris lell Спасибо !
How do you warranty repairs like this?
Heat paste & wet rags will prevent the wrong things from getting too hot.
Did you run nitrogen thru system while brazing compressor and fixing coil ?
Stay-Brite soft solder was used. This does not require a nitrogen purge and is the reason I use it.
Is there any instance where you braze at all anymore? Can you use the Stay Brite 8 on 410a higher pressure systems? On any HVAC copper tubing?
Great video, thanks for posting...!
How does the solder hold up to vibration?
Haven't had an issue
Awesome! Keep them coming
If you had taken the rubber feet off the old compressor and moved them over to the new one you wouldn't have had to mess with the pipes, the bolts would hve been the correct length and it would isolate vibration.
***** It's not the feet. The new compressor is physically smaller than the old. The old one was about 7" round the new one only about 5"
Fair enough, though using the rubber feet may have helped?
i like the way you show this r done.thank you very much
great video keep them coming
Can you try using hydrogen to fined leaks I her hydrogen can get threw the smallest leaks
+marco “t500” jonker Not unless you want to hear a big boom. Nitrogen and Co2 are the two gasses used for leak checking.
I like that comment it took three years to replace that.
Honestly I'd rather that than them saying go ahead and repair it and then not pay me
Good vid.... I like the HVAC stuff
Nice job 👍
Awesome video.
Your nose is drooling. I have been doing this for 20 years. I'm still not sold on soft solder.
Been doing it for over 19 and haven't had an issue.
We're is the crankcase heater
Doesn't run in the winter. No need for one
Great video, more please
Why the pebbles on the roof?
Samsgarden They protect the rubber roof underneath
Issue:
Is Stay-brite-8 approved to use on the refrigerant piping?
Product line:
All DX units
Environment:
Data Center Cooling
Cause:
Resolution:
Stay-brite 8 (SB8) is chemically suitable for a copper to stainless joint , however not for our commercial equipment. Its make up is 94% tin 6% silver which makes it a high temperature solder, not a brazing material. A Silver commercial joint is a stronger joint to withstand systems vibrations and does not "flow" like solder. commercial can ribbon into the piping, causing restrictions and other operational issues such as shearing (piping being pushed out of the fitting with commercial still attached to both surfaces) and ultimate decoupling of the joint.
Commercial is a solder and our connections need to be brazed. commercial is liquid at 535ºF. Brazing takes place at temperatures above 800ºF. Soldering takes place at temperatures below 800ºF, therefore, using commercial is not brazing.
NOTE: If any contractor suggests its use, it is to be denied.
I work almost exclusively on CRAC’s and I agree he should be using braze rod. The flux is a potential contaminate as well. As far as I see it is if you can’t braze why are you in the trade.
@@JohnnyOShmere just because things have been done a certain way doesn't mean its best way. new ways are always being discovered and are improvement over old techniques
lordjaashin this isn’t one of those times.
thank you very much I will do exactly as you said.
Interesting and informative!
Not too shabby
Well done!
sweeeet job hal!!!!!
You skipped I didn't see you pressure with nitrogen and vaccum
Great Vid!
Idk about using soft solder though
This is an example of some pretty good surgery here
You can cancel one line wich has the leak from the joint by jumper , i always do this , better than braze corrosion area wich may leaks again .
Brazing has its benefits... but it has its down points also...
Staybright 8 has a bursting point of 10,000 to 14,000 PSI... if done
properly it is stronger than dynaflow 15 because it uses less heat and
does not change the condition of the copper fitting... the high temp of
brazing changes the coppers molecular structure making it weak..... I
used Staybright 3% for years...now we braze everything... but now that
Harris has come out with the Staybright #8... I am going back to the low
temp soldering ... no need to purge with nitrogen...clean, strong joints, less heat and better
penetration... If you ever have had to braze in a reversing valve in a GEO you would appreciate this technology....
don't knock it till you tried it...
NIce work !! I am also a HVAC contractor located In Baltimore Maryland and I have had great success finding refrigerant leaks in HVAC systems with a total loss of charge using Nitrogen and a Accutrak Ultrasonic leak detector for about 6 years now. The Accutrak Ultrasonic Leak Detector works great and I use about 300 PSI Nitrogen charge and when you get even 12" of a small leak it sounds like a jet plane in the headset !! You should look into getting one and I have turned on about 25 + fellow HVAC techs who also have great results as well using the Accutrak Ultrasonic Leak Detector !! I satered to use "STAY BRITE" about 30 years ago and my coworkers thought I was crazy. The old flux was in a squirt bottle and was like liquid and if you got it into a cut man you talk about burning lol !! I use to work for a exclusive LENNOX dealer in Baltimore Maryland and LENNOX Industrys engineers are the ones who suggested using "STAY BRITE" on their HVAC equipment on installs to avoid Oxidation from Brazing and of course if you use a low flow Nitrogen Regulator while brazing that should ot be a problem at all. Keep up the great work !! Here is a link to the Accutrack website !! superiorsignal.com/superior-accutrak
hi is it a good idea go buy the text book from goodheart 20th edition
sorry but you use 50% tin and flux?? not whit silver?
Not 50/50. Stay Brite # 8 Look it up.
Ah and the ckesn product is gel