Ripping the ArcadeR Joystick apart and looking at the parts inside.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Retro radionics has released a joystick for home retro computers, based on arcade hardware. In this video we tear the stick down, look at the internals and have a play test. Is this the retro gaming joystick for you?
You can order an ArcadeR joystick from ZX Renew in the UK and Europe - zxrenew.co.uk/... - Please direct sales and other enquiries to them! You can order worldwide from retroradionics...
There is also now a Facebook support group for the product: / 2708500252802400
BIG THANKS to my Patreon Supporters who supported this video. If you would like to help fund future videos, I would be really grateful. Visit / markfixesstuff for more details.
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So glad I bought one of these from RetroRadionics
What are you using it on Douggie?
@@MarkFixesStuff I have yet to use it, but that should change soon..
That joystick design always remainds me of Lotus Turbo Challenge main menu on Amiga. There are Joystick icons on „Controls” menu just like this one.
I can still here the Lotus Turbo Challenge music in my head after all these years.
These look really good. Although it will be another purchase of something I will probably never use, as I have loads of joysticks. Another great video Mark.
Get one for your joystick collection! 🤓
You can't beat a weighty knob, and although it's not for everyone I appreciate a shorter shaft too.
Very nice joystick. However it REALLY needs a fix for C64!
When autofire is engaged it "high jacks" the keyboard. One port an b doesn't work. The other and o doesn't work (and some more buttons both ports). The reason is that the autofire actively pulls fire high. It should however allow it to flow free unless fire is pressed - then actively pulled low. The fix is easy with a diode but really shouldn't be necessary for high quality item like this!
Hey!!!! Sorry for the delay in responding! I am afraid that my Arcader joysticks were destroyed when my house burned last year, so I don't know how much I can help.
I don't remember such an issue for me, but inside the joystick there are some solder pads. I think they are marked "Atari and C64". For the C64 you should bridge the c64 pad to the middle contact. I have to think back a long time for this but I think that is the procedure.
It's a very moddable joystick so some actions are not for end users, but please try that and let me know. I didn't need a diode for c64.
There is also a facebook group and they are very helpful and have some docs in there. If there is a problem, Djordje is in that group and will help you.
@@MarkFixesStuff Sorry to hear about your house.
The solder pads/jumpers don't do anything to the autofire. The reason for some keys on keyboard not to work when autofire is engaged is that the output (pin3) of the NE555 which is used to generate the pulses id directly coupled to pin6 on joystick port. Which means it is forced high which interferes with the C64 input matrix to be scanned properly. The pin6 should be allowed to flow freely unless fire-button is pressed at which is should be pulled low - when fire is not pressed it must not be pulled high. That's where the diode comes in handy. I am in dialogue with him about - by request of some users in a C64 group. To be honest I don't think it leads anywhere. The same story over again. Companies are very reluctant to admit there's an error and they really need to make an updated version. By his request I've tried all those settings I tried earlier when reading the manual - of course nothing changes the keyboard highjacking as no setting changes the active high pulling of the auto fire circuit when engaged.
I originally just wanted to make users of the group aware of it. It is a nice joystick but has a major flaw - so only recommended to people who can solder. Look in the group. For one of the answers I've even drawn the very simple path from output pin3 of NE555 to joystick port pin6. Normally in the old days autofires was an open collector construction. An NE555 is fine - not as said you really need to make sure it only pulls low - high must flow freely - not actively be pulled high.
@@MarkFixesStuff Oh my God, how awful! 😞
Oo-er!
Mine never came with the rubber thingie, must be why the black plastic flops around 🤔
The do on all arcade sticks usually.Only certain colour combos have the rubber tube.
Here's a crazy coincidence. The video I have just finished for next week features a piece of work and although I googled how to say your name I still sound like a fool. I was shocked to see you comment on this weeks video seeing as I was practicing saying your name over and over...
Did I summon you hahahahaha?
I would love this if it wasn't for the fact that I use a Super Famicom controller with my Amiga.
I use a Megadrive pad with the adapters I built in an previous video.
@@MarkFixesStuff I use the Raphnet Super Famicom to Atari adapter. It supports the 2 button Amiga standard in addition to mapping up to a button for platform games that only support 1 button.
HI there, on the site it appears there is a way to connect this to a pc or raspberry via the side using 9pin mini connector? I can't seem to find anything on this though and wonder if you can mmaybe point me in the right direction or possibly a link. Excellent and useful video cheers
Best bet for technical info is the ArcadeR Facebook group Adro
So...much...smut 😂
Does this work for distinct two button 7800 games (Rikki & Vikki, etc)?
I'm afraid I don't have that to test. If you are on facebook, there is a small support group called "ArcadeR" where I'm sure someone can answer on this specific title.
I really need a 7800 multicart...
The joystick that you got in the box with the amstrad cpc 464 must of been the worst joystick in the 80s I reckon 😒
Bloody awful but on a par with that nasty Cheetah pack in joystick that came with the C64.
Look lovely but a bit concerned about the kind of company that threatens refunds will be minus PayPal fee. Surely that breaks every PayPal rule? I'd like one with USB myself but not sure this is my kind of supplier 🥺
Why should they lose money because you changed your mind?
ZX Renew is a reseller. I have no idea about the Paypal thing, so it would be best to ask them directly. I suspect it's in response to some Paypal change rather than threatening buyers.
Actually, just to add to that, I have had a ton of stuff from them over the last couple of years and when an item was faulty they just sent me another one directly with no hassle.
Or you could buy instead directly from Retro Radionics at retroradionics.co.uk/#!/ArcadeR-9-pin-ATARI-standard-Joystick/p/168982750/category=0
@@MarkFixesStuff good to know.. maybe if they dont like PayPal's practices they should just stop taking it then? ;-)
I liked how you could easily pull it off. The knob did strangely glisten as well, must need a bit of a rub.
I have no idea what you mean...
I’m totally innocent of all charges
Giggles
I would not recommend buying. On their order form I noted this was for the C64, they shipped it for Atari. because they used soft screws and over tightened one of them, I could not get the case open to configure property, and had to drill out one of the screws to make use of the device, but now the case does not close properly and I am having to under go the process of either getting them to replace at least the case and screws, or preferred to have them actually read what I ordered, ship the proper unit or issue a full refund
Hi!
A question:
Are the two buttons for the primary fire, or is one for the secondary fire?
I don't know if you say it in the video, I'm Italian and I can't understand everything.
Thank you!
Yes, Primary and Secondary, but you can also make 2x Primary with a small wire hack
@@MarkFixesStuff ok, I got it
They are clone parts? The site says "Joystick mechanics by Sanwa standard with long lasting micro switches". What gives? Deceptive marketing? Don't name drop Sanwa if your parts are not Sanwa!
They are clone parts. I don't make them, just reviewed them. You can contact them directly on their site if you wish to complain!
fnar...
Stupid name tho, hard to search for :P
I think it will become easier over time. I’m going to add a blog post and suck up all the traffic now you’ve mentioned it hahahahahaahah
Perfect timing. I recently received mine having been on pre-order for an awful long time. I just checked and mine has the later revision of the board (i.e. it has the jumper holes next to the Atari/C64 solder points). So I assume all main production have this newer board installed. I've yet to try it out but will very soon - I just had to watch your video first. Great video by the way - very detailed and to the point. Love the comparison against the other types of restrictor plates. To be honest I had no idea it was modable. One thing I'd have liked to have seen is that the selection between Atari and C64 be accessible by a simple sliding switch, perhaps mounted on the side of the joystick. Having to remove screws to change the mode is rather annoying. I wonder how many people will buy two joysticks so one can be left set to Atari and the other to C64???
Mark, one thing I'm not clear on, when in Atari mode is the second fire button active at all? Also, did you test out the autofire?
OK, in BOTH modes the second button will send a pulse down the PotX pin, but will only be recognised if the machine supports secondary fire. So, on a Spectrum for example, the second button won't do anything (Kempston). I raised this with RR and that's why they will start supplying a Y cable to plug both the buttons into the primary fire socket on the board. This will make both buttons FIRE on machines that only support one fire button. RR have ordered the cables in and I believe he will send you one on request as an existing purchaser and include them with future sticks.
Yes, autofire works fine. The switch needs to be outwards for it to be on. I also adjusted the autofire with the small potentiometer on the board and it behaved as you would imagine - it got faster. I don't really like autofire personally but it's certainly functional.
@@MarkFixesStuff Brilliant - thanks for the detailed answer. One reason I asked is that I just tested the joystick on an unsupported console, the sadly undervalued ColecoVision. With the way it's configured at the moment this means that the second fire button doesn't act like a second fire button the CV. The CV makes extensive use of both fire buttons so rather sad that this joystick currently doesn't support that mode. Also discovered that the autofire doesn't work with the CV either - although that may be the default rate that it's set at.
Do you happen to know what changes to the pinout occur when switching between Atari and C64 mode? Would be nice if Retro Radionics provided a little technical PDF for the joystick for the tinkerers out there.
I saw these and they look really good, thanks for the review, also you got through a whole video on joysticks with no innuendo, nice.
sure he did! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
A good review. There are a couple of minor issues - generally arcade sticks would be in 8 way mode, not 4. Pacman etc would be in 4 way mode, not 8 way.
Also, the right hand small button isn't for autofire, it changes the right main button between acting as button 2 and button 3 for systems that support it.
That aside, it's a great review. I've only just received mine so haven't broken it in yet.
I think I might have 4 and 8 way naming the wrong way around in my head. Thanks for steering me straight. Regarding the switches, I was going off a schematic I was given but that does make sense. Thanks again!
The joystick and button's is original sanwa parts?
They are good quality clone parts, not genuine.
The first ArcadeR that I ordered worked for 1 hour and then never worked again. I believe its the cable inside. They were good and refunded me for the trouble, never did get that joystick working again. I did order another one however to see if I can get a working one. I'm still keen to try one out. Fingers crossed!
Nice to see the old style Competition Pro back, especially with suckers and a sturdy shaft.
Mrs giving me such strange looks. Not sure if she wants to watch you play with your big red ball or your solid shaft.
Shiny shaft? I aim to please!
@@MarkFixesStuff shiny, sorry, typo 🤣
10/10 from me! My ArcadeR joystick is now my favourite Amiga joystick. FYI I had to remove that resistor you mention at 09:08 and solder the joints to get the 2nd button working.
Brilliant info! What Amiga model?
@@MarkFixesStuff Amiga 600.
Spit, shafts and knobs all in one video, it's almost too much... Great review mate...
Thanks for the video Mark! just ordered one of these :)
It’s a great stick and for people like us who like to tinker with things it’s really a lot of fun as well.
Bought two of these. Both have included an alternative restricter (?) in the box. Interesting to see a teardown, haven't opened either of mine yet. I think these are the best joysticks I've ever owned.
I think that the ArcadeR was meant to come with a round restrictor, but the mechanisms came fitted with square, so in that case Retro Radionics just put both in the box.
Also availible at ZXRenew. zxrenew.co.uk/*Pre-Order*-ArcadeR-Joystick-p230126529
Cable is available like spare part ? I don't know where to buy it
Thank you mate the joystic looks simplistic and i like it !! i havent played with joystic for years!hope you are well!!
I like how we can see your reflection because your big knob is so shiny
*glossy.
Looks like a great stick mate, just The right amount of knob jokes also 😍👍.
Indeed it is. Love you Dave!
These look nice!
ime confused,, in your video you show alot of them, and you share a link to where i can buy them in europe, but when i come to the page and click buy it says PRE ORDER, are they not avalible yet ,and if not , what is ETA
If that’s the ZX Renew page they might be out of stock. They are very popular. Best option is to drop them an email! Good luck :)
Oh just to confirm they are already on sale for some time.
Nice I almost got one but missed out
They're available right now Si.
I hope you will raffle some of the joysticks off :)
Thanks. It looks so promissing. I wonder how this ArcadeR compares to The Greek Stick?
I have not experienced TGS so I don't really think I can comment haha!
"Retro Radionics sent me a few samples" (Huge 16 unit collection shows)-
Loads!
Wow! I learnt a lot about arcade controls, I didn't know there were different restrictor plates. Nice video Mark.
You can even 3D prob them now! What a time to be alive!
I like how the reflection in the joystick turns you into Greg Davies. ;)
I Googled "big red knob" btw... I'll never quite recover.
More like a Greggs Pasty.
Retroradionics rulez...
The default stick and buttons are bad but the case and turbo fire buttons are nice.
I don't mind the buttons and stick at all. I have changed the restrictor to take the throw length down and used some dry silicone lube spray on the buttons since the video.
The nice thing is that it's really a good and moddable stick.
Look like a good stick. I like the amount of colour variants and motability. Great review as always Mark.
Excellent joystick!! I remember in 1992 when my friend broke one joystick from C64 use wires on fingers... i repair wits screws and some switch for fire.
So it may or may not work on the Amiga?
It will defintiely work but you may or may not need to removed the 270ohm resistor - hence them incorporating a jumper.
@@MarkFixesStuff Ah, thanks Mark.
Where the USB version???
It's only Atari 9 pin standard so far. Just for retro machines. There are USB versions of Competition Pro sticks IIRC?
there's a USB version available for preorder now.
Picked up one of these as it looks like it'll compliment my MiSTer quite nicely. Appreciate the very thorough teardown of this thing! Looks like an easy to justify investment for me.
I plan to buy one of these for C=64 and Amigas. @Mark Fixes Stuff , do you know when changes you spoke about will be implemented? Which version I should ask for?
The new board is made and shipping now. Best to put a note on the order though.
@@MarkFixesStuff Is there any list of changes they made?
I suppose you will do a review?
@@lokz9632 there was a post in the ArcadeR Facebook group. Are you in it?
@@MarkFixesStuff Just joined. Ill take a look. Tnx.
Is it better than the Monster Joystick?
No. They are really different controllers.
Going to order one of these next week hopefully. Looks a great stick for anything that uses Atari Standard
I'm going to wire both the button to circuit one for machines that don't need two fire buttons I think.
@@MarkFixesStuff Yeah C64, Spectrum, Amstrad, Atari ST etc makes better sense given when you hand starts aching shirt a bit and use the second button for some relief. Pity there isn't a way to wire one of the buttons to actually work as the spacebar which is needed on some games like Gryzor to jump or Op Wolf to lob a grenade.
Please do a vid on making both buttons work in the same way if it is a simple fix
@@IainMetcalf Retro Radionics will be providing a little Y cable mate. They've ordered a couple of thousand of them.
excellent looking joystick and the film was good too :-)
Many thanks! and thanks for viewing my OnlyFans!
What is the third unused socket on the PCB for?
It’s a button 3 input I am told.
@@MarkFixesStuff So it's useless for C64 I presume? Thanks.
@@lastburning yes. The standard configuration works great on c64. Not sure what supports button 3!
@@MarkFixesStuff I just got this joystick today and I'm already modding it because I'm particular about my sticks. :D
7:15 Heeey! It's a good old ALPS switch! Or at least a clone one.
Yes! A retro classic in it's own right hahah
Wondering what's happened to these guys - am starting to think its gone from a viable business to a scam. I ordered one that was showing as in stock, being shipped to the US, but six weeks later its still sitting on "processing" (despite the money coming out immediately!) and have yet to get a reply from them.
They are definitely still going. Djordje is a one man band and sometimes things slip through the cracks, and shipping etc has been really hit and miss recently. Are you on Facebook? There is an ArcadeR group that you can get order support from. I’ll point this comment out to them as well and make sure they are aware.
@@MarkFixesStuff Well, ironically and completely out of nowhere it arrived today. No ship notice, no replies, no nothing. But yep, quality bit of kit!
@@ubermick4208 communications could definitely be better.
Anyone using this stich with an Amiga?
For me my right button has no function at all.
Did anyone get the right button to work on an Amiga?
Hey Xterminated. Are you on facebook? Check the group in the description. They can help!
@@MarkFixesStuff Thanks, sorry no facebook, but I might found the solution on forum64. For Amiga I have to bridge R1 to get button 2 working. Thanks for your review. This was very helpful!!!
Ah yes, the resistance can be too high on some Amiga models iirc.
I soldered a bypass to R1 and boom... button 2 & 3 are working.
@@xterminated brilliant. Thanks for letting us know!