Classic Atari Joystick to USB Adapter
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- I'm attempting to build my own joystick adapter to be able to use my classic Atari style DB9 connector joysticks on modern USB hardware and emulators. // Get your first PCBs free - PCBs at PCBWay www.pcbway.com/ (Sponsor)
Atari joysticks standard and pinouts on Wikipedia: en.wikipedia.o...
Vice C64 (and more) emulator: vice-emu.source...
The USB PCB I used is available here (affiliate links):
US: amzn.to/36Cvu6h
UK: amzn.to/2Fyjgjp
DE: amzn.to/2FAvmbD
The case I used for the build is a Superbat LE-BOX-0033 (affiliate links):
US: amzn.to/36CtU4l
UK: amzn.to/36yCMrQ
Dr A of the Backoffice Show made a much more advanced "Ultimate Joystick Interface" board a while back that adds analog inputs and is fully scriptable, recommended if you want to make a fancier adapter: backofficeshow...
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Music: "Fride" & "Skråblikk" by Focus 10 / user-993847645
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Equipment and tools I use are listed here: kit.co/janbeta (some links are affiliate links)
If you find this video helpful and/or entertaining please like, share, subscribe and/or consider a donation!
TWITTER: / thejanbeta
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Thanks!
#JanBeta #Joystick #Adapter #USB #PCBWay
Nice to see the old DB9 joysticks being kept alive. Back in the 90s I designed an interface for using Atari Style DB9 joysticks on the PC, that was before USB existed and the PC compatible joysticks were pretty much all analog sticks using the DB15 connector often found on sound cards. Those were good for flight sims etc, but useless for action games, so being able to use some of the older DB9 Atari style joysticks on the PC was really great.
For mounting the board, a trick i have used in other places is to screw some plastic 5mm hex standoffs to the board, put a dab of superglue on the bottom of the standoffs, then put it in the case where you want it and hold it down for 20 seconds. You then get perfectly placed screw holes for your board.
Yes, that would be a great solution. I will definitely do more tinkering with this thing, might add some proper mounting. :)
I could watch your videos for hours! Always dissapointed when the video ends.. Thanks
Oh, thanks! :D
I built the same thing to connector about a year ago now to connect my NeoGeo AES stick to the MiSTer FPGA. I laughed as I did the same with the grounds. Great vid as always
Nice! Thank you. :)
Hi Jan, you could have just removed the crimp pins in the connectors and swapped them over rather than un-soldering and turning the sockets around. There is a little tab on the back that just needs pushing with some tweezers or small screwdriver to release the pins. Great video as usual.
Yes, that makes sense. I wanted to keep the wires short so they would fit into the case better. :)
Much to complicated. You can simply tear the plastic part of the pins on the PCB, rotate it and press it on again (this is the common way to change orientation with 4-pin JST male headers on 3-d printer controllers after changing from A4988 to tmc driver modules).
i know it is kinda off topic but do anybody know of a good website to stream new movies online?
@Jakob Finn Flixportal xD
@Izaiah Yahir Thanks, I went there and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :) I appreciate it!
That's got to be the best filing/cutting/hole making job I've ever seen you do Jan. You've taken it to a new level. Fantastic job!
Haha, thanks! Tried to do a bit of a neater job this time. It's quite easy because these cases are made of rather soft plastic.
OMG Jan! Haven't even watched a second of the video yet and I'm SO happy both for the length and for the content! This new year, new rules, new algorithm triple threat has killed my feed! THANK YOU!
Haha, thanks. Hope you like the video. :)
Just needs a blinking LED on the top and it'll look like "The Internet" from The IT Crowd :)
Haha, I might add one. :D
Wow, that 'busy music' is amazing! Thanks, great video, Jan!
Nice work! When I got my C64 Mini, I hated the feel of the crappy joystick it came with. So, I modified it with a DB9 port wired directly to the circuit board in the joystick contact lines. Now I can use original C64/Atari joysticks with it, and probably with Vice on the PC if it’s a standard USB joystick interface, and also it doubles as an extension cord so I can sit farther back from the TV. (Of course, my preference is always original C64 hardware!)
Nice and proper solution. Old joysticks feels best.
Admirer of classical electronics Especially the old vectrex controlers.
I was doing the same adapter as you on my own (connecting a DB9 to a Zero Delay USB Game Control Board but then realized the "common ground" of the fire buttons and direction is not ground at all. It is really +5V and it is hardwired to the +5V of the USB connector. That's why in the directional connector it says VDD and not GND. This means you soldered the common +5V to the GND pin 8 of the Atari connector. and the same +5V to the VCC pin 7 too. This has no consequences in a simple joystick without autofire because it is just switches inside and the pin 7 is not connected. So for the joystick it is the same if the switches are shorting to a +5V signal or to GND and the joystick will work. It also doesn't affect to joysticks with a false autofire where the autofire switch all that does is keep closed the fire signal as if the player has the finger on the fire button all the time. But the real autofire joysticks such as the famous Quickshot II use an active circuit with a 555 timer to simulate rapid presses of the fire button only when the player actually keeps pressed the fire button and this ones use the pin 7 and expect to have +5V there and 0V at pin 8. Since you have +5V in both pins (they are in fact in short circuit), I am surprised the 555 chip or the board didn't blow up. Also, when you reversed the 3 fire connectors with the wires already soldered to the DB9 connector, I think you just linked all three buttons together so no matter what fire button you press, you are going to press all three of them. It works fine in the C64 emulator because it only uses one fire button (and also, most old school joysticks had all the fire buttons internally connected anyway).
Thanks for the explanation. I have just ordered one of these to use with a Quickshot II. Would I need to wire the fire button differently than shown?
@@NeilDeWheelyou can isolate the pin 7 and the joystick will work but autofire won't work. I'm sure there must be a way to connect autofire so it can work, but this is beyond my electronics knowledge. Maybe somebody can throw some light on this problem. I did my adaptor and isolated pin 7 to avoid any damage. The directions and fire are just switches so they don't care what is Vcc and what is GND. They will work the same.
Jan, thank you for the link, very kind sir. I have quite a few 2600 controllers I have been converting myself, the main problem I am finding is the internal structures have broken and do not press the switch domes anymore. I tried a few 3D printed replacements but they were pretty lame. I will be trying to make a few in reinforced resins and see how that goes!
There are some nice reproduction replacements available for the circuit board in the 2600 controllers if you have a broken board or worn out contact pads that use metal button surface mount tact switches, but ya if the plastic stick parts that make contact are cracked you're pretty much out of luck unless you can find some NOS service parts replacements.
There's a gentleman that goes by commodore4ever here on youtube that is working on replacing both the circuit board and internal structure of the Atari joysticks... here's a video on it: th-cam.com/video/qqNt0sSXw3g/w-d-xo.html
Yes, the Atari joysticks are getting brittle inside these days I think. Saw a lot of broken ones recently but mysteriously they seemed really sturdy back in the day. Nice work on your adapter board, btw, it was literally one of the first things that I got pointed to by commenters. :D
I built the same thing ages ago for my Spectrum emulator. Those boards are realy good.
I would guess you only needed one of the ground cables (connected together on the pcb already)
Yes, that's correct. I wanted to make sure that there is a ground connection no matter which fire buttons you connect. But I could have just connected one common ground (maybe on the 5V connector).
I think it was one more misstake of Commodore to not put at least a cheap two-button Joystick in the Amiga's package, because that lead to nearly all people buying single-button Joysticks like the CompetitionPro and prevented the game developers from making more games with multiple button support, which would have been a crucial improvement for games like Streetfighter II - although the Amiga was capable of that.
Regarding the adapter: It isn't so obvious that the USB controller used in such an adapter is really fast enough or humans not to detect the lag. You remember that horrible USB-Competition-Pro, that terrified retro gamers about ten years, ago? ;)
Nice to know that I am not the only one who reads the directions, only after it doesn't work the way I Know it should be put together!
Perfect video topic... just what I needed.... please more of this greatness
Thank you so much! :D
A nice project, indeed, and quite economical. I never even considered this for my Mini. And sadly, I still don't own a TAC-2, for shame. 🤦♂️
Just make sure you never connect it to MSX or a Sega Master System if you don't want to short VCC to GND :)
Actually the Master system pads are ok, Mega drive/Genesis ones are not though
A switch can be added to the box to work in MSX or original Atari mode. Just be sure the box is in the correct mode before connecting the joystick!
BTW, What happened if you connected a Quickshot II to a MSX computer?
Nice and straight forward. I wasn't aware that this is available as some sort of a kit already.
Yes, very easy solution and it works reasonably well. Was quite surprised to find these kits, too. :)
I've done this, but never thought to make a video about it. Good job!
Thank you! :D
Amazing, this is exactly what I've been looking for. Going to attempt to make one this week!
I'm here for the famous "Jan was here" moment :))) cheers.! Nice work.
I like your laptop stickers.
OH common JAN WHY ? 27:20 you just push pins and take cable out of connector and switch places between them , you don't de-solder whole receiving connector x3
Yeah, didn't think of that at that moment.
It's a little easier if you buy a 9-pin joystick extension cable and then cut it in half rather than soldering and mounting a D9 sub connector. Also makes the joystick cable effectively longer.
to be honest i think it is better to have the print so big it makes it easier for every to see keep up the great content
Thanks! :)
@@JanBeta no problem jan
that custom ic blob on the bottom of the pcb (specifically where they had that made for something that won't sell millions of units) is somewhat more interesting than a converter to 'usb'. lol.
Yeah, would be VERY interesting to know what that thing is.
@@JanBeta if they could have custom chips made cheap enough for such low sales numbers to put them on such a product and still run a profit. that same factory can also make some 6526 and sids and such for us lol.
been digging around a bit but normally '6502 complexity rate' 40 pin dips start at some 50000 dollars engineering costs and then a few cents each for the first 10000 pieces. ;) i don't think they paid -that- just to sell a few 1000 of these things.
could be some off the shelve microcontroller or fpga core but then why isn't it in a normal package... gotta store bare chip dies in nitrogen you know. don't think they shipped them that way.
(but actually we should simply buy a whole cmos production line and simply start producing the -entire- 65cxx 74hct and all those old ram chips on sos cmos ourselves. probably better than to keep looking for other fabs to make that stuff for us (as they all try to rip you off on what is essentially just glass and plastic and metal ;) but if these guys did it cheaply enough to put acustom chip on -that- product it could be an interesting middle step. (not quite in line with the military/space rated quality standards we demand but good enough to service the retrofitting/repair/prototyping market for a while until we get something better ;)
Atari joysticks are pull-low when activated. The PIA chip datelines are set high initially. The Zero-delay USB encoder is the opposite, or pull-high activated (Not common Gnd but common Vcc). A switch does not care but Vcc to Gnd shorts do. Be careful about pin 5 and 9 as joysticks/pads have various usage and work differently. I found this out when adding a power connector to run led buttons; hen, it's not common ground.
At 25:00 mins it is NOT common ground. It was staring in everyone's face, the wire colour coding , and board markings, all indicate common power +5v. We have all been brainwashed into thinking everything is common ground, like automotive wiring. Oops, NO, NO, NO! Wonderful Chinese engineering.
I used an Atmel micro-controller, atmega32u4 5v. They work in the same way as an ATARI console, pull-low activated.
Woah, okay, that makes sense. Will have to reinvestigate. Thanks for pointing this out!
Just discovered this for myself now that I've finally got to wiring it up. Came to watch the video again and read the comments. Ultimately I guess I'll have to feed the +5v to the common pin and I'm going to miss out on the auto-fire function of my old sticks.
A nice mod to consider is putting a usb hub in the box with a usb memory stick for extra games
Bravo Jan Beta. Sehr gut!!!!
Ich sehe deine videos und immer sage zu mier na er ist super!!!.
Sinclair did their own "Version" that wasn't compatible with the standard... Cos they thought they could sell terrible proprietary joysticks, which were weak and broke like twigs
I built the same thing a couple of years ago but with my build I put monetary switches on the Case cover for all of the buttons. At one point I added two more ports for NES, SNES and PC. I wonder where that box went.
I definitely need to put more buttons on the outside, too. Tried using it with RetroPie and it's pretty useless for most stuff unless you get the extra buttons. :D
Just tested the 'Retronic Design Universal D-SUB9 Joystick adapter to USB' on the C64mini and it didn't work.
Update: I have updated the firmware of the C64mini to v1.6.1, Tac-2 now works! :D
I was going to say: they added support for a many more USB devices in the meantime. Glad you got it working! :)
I used your link to get those strippers! I kept seeing them in your videos and meant to get some like that. Great video.
Oh, thank you! I like them a lot, been using them for a long time. :D
Hi Jan, Love your videos! FYI, there is a common confusion around the plug sizes for VGA and the joystick connector. DE is the little one, DB is the larger size used for parallel. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D-subminiature#/media/File:DSubminiatures.svg
Hey Jan. NIce to meet you.
what about using the paddles aswell?
I didn't understand the part you explain it.
I'd like to use atari joysticks with on button and the paddles. (the classics)
Can you instruct me?
thanks and congratulations for the video
I've done exactly as you show using the same encoder, same wiring (but no button 2, just button 1) with all the ground connections for all buttons and directions (I had to use the 4 sockets: AU, AD, AL, AR for joystick) connected together in one bunch and soldered the grounds as one connection to pin 8 (ground). I get buttons registering but the joystick movements also just show buttons being pressed - no joystick movement being shown in Windows. What have I done wrong please, Jan? It must be something simple. I have done this twice now and I still can't figure it out. I'm no technician or electrician, so apologies if you think it is a silly question, but your help with this would be very much appreciated. It has to do with the common ground, I think.
I'm a bit late to the party, but one big catch with this particular cheapie joystick board is it's not common ground, it's common +5V. It detects a press when an input is shorted to the red USB VDD (5V) line. Which means, for a common-ground joystick, you end up having to connect 5V to the ground pin on the connector to get it to work. Which means sticks with active electronics in them won't work.
The CPC joystick (your Competition PRO has this mode), has second FIRE button on the same line as Atari Joysticks have 5V, but that is not a big problem. 5V is used only to power Auto-Fire circuitry and it doesn't need much power, so you can power this pin via the 4k7 pull-up resistor, and in the same time use it as input. Regular pins have 10k pull-ups, but 4k7 should be no problem, and it should be enough to power auto-fire on most joysticks. You can go even lower, as low as 1k, should still be ok.
Oh, I don't think my competition pro has a CPC mode? At least I wasn't aware of that. It has autofire and "slow-mo" buttons, I think only some of the newer ones have secondary fire buttons. But it makes sense for CPC joysticks of course. :)
@@JanBeta You're right, there were 6 different versions of this joystick. I never really liked it, so dodn't use it much. Both my favorite QuickJoys (Supercharger and TopStar) were Atari/CPC switchable.
Jan sei eccezzionale,eccezzionale!,non ho parole,sei un genio.ciao.
Great job! And good idea for my project. Thx!
I could use something like this to refurbish a DDR metal dance mat I modded back in the early 2000s to run off the guts of a USB gamepad. That solution was a bit flaky and messy.
Maybe I could just revisit it too and strengthen all of the connections and cut off any unnecessary PCB.
Just what I needed to know; because if this works with the C64 Mini, it should work with my 'Maxi' and I can use all the empty space in the left hand end, put it all internally with a discrete row of small push buttons for the menus. Thank you. :)
Yes, the Maxi should be compatible with the Mini joystick so I suppose it will work fine. :)
Funny, I was thinking about doing the opposite. Those old VCS controllers are just so frustrating. I'd rather build a controller using arcade parts and connect a DB9 to it. ;-)
I'm mostly using the adapter with my TAC-2 and Competition Pro, love those. I agree about the original Atari sticks. ;)
This is a great idea😁
Thanks for the great video🤘
Thank you! :D
hey Jan. why did you not do the double joystick version and check if that works on theC64 mini/maxi after the last update, because i want to put that in the maxi on the correct spot. and connect it to one of the remaining internal onboard usb ports. and replace the side usb ports to the back and then with the right side up because all ports are upside down in the mini and maxi.
hmmm ps. why did you not just slide the pins out the connector with the use of a small needle. to switch the arround. lol
I have done my own Atari Joystick to USB converter using Arduino Micro PRO (ATmega 32U4). It can work with digital (Atari) joysticks, as well as with Analog PC (Gameport) joysticks.
Nice, I will look into that at some point, too. :)
I always felt it was shame that we could have had a analog 5 button joystick with just the Atari connector.
Awesome job, as always, my nerd brother! Danke
für ein tolles Video :)
Thank you Michael!
Klasse Idee., ich möchte mir so etwas auch "tinkern" und habe daher gleich mehrere Sets bestellt (falls ein Retro-begeisterter Kollege auch Spaß daran bekommen sollte, doppelt hält im Zweifel eh besser ;) ). Das Flachbandkabel ist da aber leider in keinem Angebot abgebildet, nur das USB-Kabel natürlich und die vielen 2-.Pol Stecker. Mal sehen, ob das trotzdem dabei ist, sonst wird eben selbst gebastelt ;)
Oh, darauf habe ich gar nicht geachtet. Ich glaube aber, dass das Flachbandkabel in meinem Angebot auch nicht abgebildet war. Funtkioniert aber ja auch mit den anderen Steckern. Auf dem Board ist sind auch einzelne Anschlüsse für die Richtungskontakte.
Rule #1 of connecting unknown circuits: Red is black and plus is minus. Nice project.
Of course! :D
Always good to have options these days especially since some of the old connectors are goin' away or are long unused. Love to see you do these DIY type of thin's but then that's what it's all about in a way. As I was watchin' past the test with the emulator where you had lag, there is the usual emulation lag but could it be laggin' because of the extra step of converting all the signals through the adapter then to the computer or is the lag still negligible even with that?
Love the stickers on the laptop by the way.
I think most of the lag is introduced by emulation. The USB conversion really is pretty fast (as advertised). It worked really well on TheC64 Mini so I think my VICE version is just a bit slow. :D
Hi Jan, interesting to see, I've also been toying with the best way of using some DB9 joysticks with my TheC64 and Raspberry Pi. Does that board take as long to be recognised when connected to the Pi?
You focus on lag and emulation during testing. But the only question should be if your setup is as fast as the usb stick that comes with the c64 mini (or any other compatible usb stick for that manner). Is it? Great video btw :)
Yes, it's definitely as fast, feels to be reacting quicker even, because of the long throw the original mini joystick has.
beware that some of the USB joystick adapters out there are comming with the (red and black) cables mounted wrong in the plug, ground (black) and plus (red) are switched around...
that costed me a little time to figure out in my last project, because i also made a common ground and the damn thing wouldnt work....
Dohhh.....26:00......
Yes, figured that out by trial and error myself. :D
very nice Jan!
Thank you sir! :)
Hi Jan. Don't you have TheC64 Maxi?. I would be very nice to implement this board you are using inside of it and having a DB9 connector on it.
Super - vielen danke!
Gern geschehen! :)
Nice job, Very creative .
I wonder, How did you decide that the black wires are the ground ?
I have similar wires and the colors are blue and white
How can I discover which of the colors is the ground ?
Hi Jan, thanks for this 👍. I’ve watched it a few times over but not being experienced with electronics I find it a little hard to follow/see exactly what wire is going where (including the couple of amendments you made towards the end). Is there any chance you could draw a simple diagram of which parts of the board lead to which wire so that I could attempt this project? At least that way if my black/red wires are supplied backwards it won’t matter 😃 (I’m building it for my full size Thec64)
I wonder if anyone has done a neat little open USB to DB9 adapter yet. Should be quite simple. I might have a go at that if noone did yet!
there are some floating around... here's one on eBay: www.ebay.com/itm/Great-Amiga-Atari-XE-XL-ST-C64-C128-Mouse-Gamepad-Joystick-USB-adapter-TOM-Rev2/233458621327
Yes, TOM2 is great. I use one permanently hooked up to my A1200 with an optical mouse. :)
you could put a 3 select switch to switch from c 64 to other systems
Yes, good idea. :)
Hi! Ist es vielleicht auch möglich, einen Adapter von USB auf 9 Pin zu basteln? Die Preise für originale Competition Pro sind ja retromäßig abgehoben... Wenn man jetzt einen günstigeren mit USB Stecker nutzen könnte, wäre schon praktisch.
Hi! Is it possible to maybe build an adapter from USB to 9 Pin? Prices for genuine competition pro have been skyrocketing with the retro trend... If you would be able to use a cheap one with USB plug, that would come in handy.
Thanks for this video. It's on my todo list to do the reverse of this, because I'm not a fan of the old joysticks and mice... would love to use modern controllers and mice on retro computers. Especially ball mice (like the atari ST mouse) and old school atari joysticks were the worst. :)
Yes, makes sense. I'm using a Tom2 adapter and an optical mouse on my Amiga that makes life a lot easier. :)
@@JanBeta Yup, I looked at the Tom2 and Jerry adapters but rather find something I can build myself. There is both the HID2AMI and the SmallyMouse2 that have gerber files out there, but both use SMD components which are beyond my soldering skills (worse than DIN connectors..hah!). If anyone out there knows of ones that use standard components, that would be ideal.
Great, thx!
I have looked many times to try and find what the chip is used with these zero delay and also the super cheap usb snes controllers you can buy for a few pounds/euro. It would be great to have access to them so they could be used in many projects, but htey are all just encased in the black blob.
Even if you could find them you wouldn't want to try to work with them yourself. COB (Chip on board), whats normally under those epoxy blobs means you would only get a bare die with no package and you'd have to try to glue it to your pcb and connect the die wires directly to the circuit board yourself. Not fun. Definitely not suited to the home hobbyist. If you're curious and do want to look these kind of parts up though they will normally be listed as "Package type: DIE".
metallux.ch/hybridcircuit/chip-on-board-cob/
@@JeremyLevi i was looking for a normal chip version, something I can work with, I know I can't do anything with these.
Yeah, that would be VERY interesting to know. I suppose you can use a microcontroller for the job but obviously an inexpensive chip solution would be very handy. Nobody knows what the chip is unfortunately, as far as I'm aware.
Great video, realy enjoyed it :D
Thank you! :D
Interesting - thanks for the video!
Did you know that you can achieve similar results using an arduino such as the pro micro (£5 UKP), and the joystick code that comes with the IDE (no programming skill required). This might be useful if you need something that will fit inside the joystick itself.
I actually built my own a couple years ago with a pro micro. An advantage is that with the pro micro, you can get two joysticks connected through the same USB port. If I remember correctly, though, I did have to do a little bit of coding for this, but it was not a lot or difficult.
Moin.
Do you know if SEGA used the same pin layout on the 9pin connectors of the MasterSystem and MegaDrive?
Because I still have an original 3 button controller at home as well as the MegaDrive Mini.
In case of the Commodore 64 I have equipped myself an original C64 with a Keyrah v2h in favor of its semi-dead mainboard which should do about as well as your adapter on the THE C64, I suppose.
Yes, the Keyrah supposedly is great. The SEGA Master System controllers have a slightly different pinout I think, the Mega Drive one uses some sort of multiplexing for the extra buttons so it's not trivial (look at the Wikipedia link I posted in the description).
I prefer the Epyx and the Tac-2 joysticks.
Gonna try something similar with my arcade supergun ;)
Yay! :D
You connected many wires to the ground pin of the db9 connector. Why? All ‘switches’ share a common ground on the pcb so just one wire would be enough. Could have saved you a lot of work! So only the white wires were needed one for each switch just one wire (red/black that was kind of confusing) does the pcb expect a high or a low signal?
One more thing, this encoder has terrible delay, try the slightly more expensive xin-mo controller next time it is so much better.
If you want, I can send you one as a donation to the channel.
I wanted to keep it a bit modular, so you could disconnect all the switches except for one and it would still have ground. But you are right, I could have just connected one ground (eg on the 5V plug) and spared me some soldering. The perceived delay is not that bad really but I'd definitely want to try that xin-mon one you are talking about if you'd send me one. :) Please shoot me an email at thejanbeta(at)gmail(dot)com.
On the old joysticks, would it work to add a new button and wire it to the joystick 'up', so you could hit the button to jump? (And still be able to use joystick up if you wanted to.)
Absolutely, just connect one wire to ground and one to the "up" contact. You can also rewire an already existing second button of course. :)
Kennst du / jemand eine Quelle, wo man solche Adapter (passend für TheC64 Maxi/Mini) fix und fertig kaufen kann? Basteln ist nicht meins, und Löten oder Elektro noch viel weniger. Bin auf der Suche, da der TheC64 Joystick nichts taugt (uns ist ein Stick gebrochen, da die Schraube die Kräfte nicht ausgehalten hatte, die beim verkrampften Pit Stop 2 spielen auftraten). Speedlink hat zwar einen Competition Pro, der ist aber nicht für Linkshänder geeignet und kann am C64 Maxi auch nicht konfiguriert werden (Feuertasten 1 und 2 sind anders als beim Original Competion Pro nicht identisch - der verbesserte Joystick vom C64 Maxi ist zwar für Linkshänder geeignet, ansonsten aber wie erlebt nichts wert, da die Schraube die Schwachstelle darstellt). Bin für jeden Tipp dankbar!
Jan, I hope you don't mind me saying, but please stop using the term "ground" when talking about negative connection. In this video you refer to the negative connection as ground and in other videos you refer to earth / ground as ground. There is a very distinct difference and for the novice it could be very confusing and also dangerous. I still love watching all you videos and always look forward to your next upload.
Does anyone know an option to do it the other way round? Connecting an USB-Controller to an Atari-style input socket?
@Jan Beta How do you choose your music and avoid TH-cam copyright strikes? It has always plagued me in the past.
I have the luxury of being provided with the music by Focus 10 for free. :)
You should of just used a "D15-USB Adaptor" that are out there, or at least a D15 Male to Zero Delay Encoder
It works for you, that's all that count's
[img]www.netnest.com.au/Content/Images/VM3052CABLE.jpg[/img] here is a pic of one
www.netnest.com.au/Content/Images/VM3052CABLE.jpg
Zero Delay Encoder come with the Red 5v Out Plug, you just have the wrong one
Oh, okay, I'll have a look for the other one. Thanks for the heads up!
Nice video Jan, as I'm sure you know there are always more than one way to get an outcome you might be interested in what Jarno Lehtinen (mcgurk) did for a similar outcome using a 32U4 based board (e.g. a pro micro) and a couple of DB9 adapters directly mounted on it with a small number of wires - the megadrive page has some good physical examples of how small a footprint you can make it without even needing a PCB or protoboard - github.com/mcgurk/Arduino-USB-HID-RetroJoystickAdapter/tree/master/megadrive however he does describe many other classic control variants in that project repo
Nice one, thanks for the link. Definitely going to tinker with a microcontroller for the job, too, at some point. :D
about Atari, do you know a trick to ad an non Atari hard disk? steel using my 1040 STE special for music with Cubase 1.2 as MIDI sequencer...
I think you could get something like the SATAndisk which can use SD cards as a harddisk replacement on the Atari. That's probably the most reasonable thing to do if you want to use it for everyday MIDI stuff. :)
"Stop telling women to smile" Right on Jan 👍
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@@JanBeta Is this a thing is Germany too? I though it was exclusively American (BTW, I'm from Italy and we naturally smile to each other so it wouldn't make any sense here to "tell someone to smile").
Great video. Thank you. I have a zero delay board lying around. I'll give this a go. Does joystick autofire work?
Oh, forgot to test that again. I just did, and it doesn't work for some reason. Will have to investigate again.
@@JanBeta I've been having that problem. Also trying to make an adapter for the Hyperkin Ranger 2600 controller. I'm convinced there's a ADC in there, but I can't get it to power (probably same power issue as autofire circuit).
Cool, you have the same drill I have! 😛 😁
Lol, my favorite all around tool. ;)
Could make up a bunch of adapters and sell them for 20-30 Euros each! Make much $$ on this idea!
Floppies next to speaker, be careful :-)
Is 5.15V normal for USB, or even within spec? Every USB port I have measured have had within about 1% of 5V, how shitty is the regulator in that macbook?
Oh, that's perfectly okay, USB specification is +/- 10% I think. Most chargers etc. provide similar extra voltage.
So I looked it up and the tolerance is 4.75V to 5.5v so seems to be ok. Might be that I have only tested with really good regulators?
1977 ftw
What is the switch for?
I have such conventer in usb enclosing 10 times smaller than that why so big pcb? ;)husak.pl/images/usbjoy.jpg
I'd considered going this route, but I went a different way for my MiSTER project, using a cheap ATMega32U4, a male 9 pin jack, and a SPDT switch from the directions here (works with Atari-based joysticks, and MegaDrive controllers too): github.com/MickGyver/Mega-Drive-Controller-To-USB-Adapter
This is most likely how I'll mod my 1UpArcade Galaga machine to use a Pi for other games though.
Very nice! I definitely want to try to use a Microcontroller for this sometime. Thanks for the link! :)
@@JanBeta there are several similar designs using this same atmega device, but this is supposed to be a lower lag design. I haven't thoroughly tested it against other methods, but it definitely does work. If you're using old sticks with a mister box, there's a zero lag alternative, I believe they call it a SNAC adapter. Let's you use OEM controllers directly with the cores that support them with a special port on the io shield. I plan on doing those eventually, but the adapter I linked above works for about 90% of what I use the mister for.
Will this work with modern games?
Yes, with some that support digital controls. Most modern games only support controllers with analog sticks these days though I think. Works great with emulators and things like that though.
I would use an ATMEGA32u4 .
@@Okurka. I already did, and for me on a quick ebay search it is about 7 times cheaper.
@@Okurka. search on ebay for arduino atmega32u4, it is already in a board, it already has a boot loader. i made a simple code(not fully optimized), i have a video showcasing it
@@Okurka. In my ebay search the price is R$ 76.85 for the already made joystick board, here i found for R$14 on ebay too.
Now i noticed that it is the 2 pack of the generic usb joystick board, its not 7 times cheaper but it is still waaaaaaay cheaper to get the atmega32u4
@@Okurka. well we must have different ebays then, because even if he paid 4.5 euro, the BRL to EUR is 4.5 so Jan paid equivalent of the R$20,47,and the arduino is R$14, with that difference i can still buy the cables and connectors , but that's just me, i like to code, and do stuff on my own.
@@Okurka.
And can you send me the link of this really cheap seller, because the only one that i can find is selling for 18.88 US dollars, and the 32u4 is selling for 3.3 US dollars, now lets open the calculator, 18.88 divided by 3.33, equais 5,72, lets make 5, so it is five times more expensive.
BTW, can you make hardware macros and turbo mode with the generic usb controller?
Dr A from The Back Office Show has made a universal joystick adapter. I'm not sure if you'd like to link it or not but it's a full on solution to what you're asking.
Oh, completely forgot about that thing, that sure is a lot fancier than the cheapo board I used! I'll put a link in the description. Thanks! :D
👍
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Great minds think alike -- I finished a *wireless* solution to the same problem yesterday. ;)
See github.com/hugovangalen/RetroUSBJoystick
As the Arduino can expose more than 1 joystick to the USB host, I've planned on adding support for 2 joysticks at a time.
Oh, nice one! Thanks for the link. Great work!
@@JanBeta Care to tell me the USB vendor- and product ID for the board you are using? (I'm having issues getting things working on my TheC64. I tried spoofing a few different controllers to no avail. Obviously your combination works, so I wonder if I can get things working spoofing those.) Thanks in advance!
“quop quop quop quop quop quop*
_every quop is a joystick appearing at the beginning of the video_
Haha, yeah, love that sound effect. :D
Please consider using words other than dieeeeess and dieeee.
Fight the Cistem, huh? Didn't take you for a trans activist.
Let's just say I don't believe in binary oppositions. ;)
@@JanBeta well I believe there is a wide spectrum between these "oppositions" but nothing beyond them.
I am definitely very wary about stuff that demeans cis people. They can't help it, they are born that way.
Those usb controllers suck I’ve been through like 3
Did they just break after some time or what happened?
Jan Beta I just used them how intended and they broke after a few weeks