When removing hub at 6:30 you can remove the hub bolts but leave one of the rear bolts in (back it all the way out but don't remove it) then take a socket on the head of the bolt, get back in the truck, crank it up and turn the steering wheel all the way toward the direction of the side of the truck that you are working on and it will pop right off without any beating on it with a hammer. basically with the bolt backed all the way out, there's not enough clearance for the bolt head and socket so when you turn the steering wheel all the way in that direction the bolt head hits the C arm and the power steering does all the work for you. it works every time no matter how rusted and stuck the hub may be, it's no match for the power steering hydraulics.
@@thestartofus8120 Worked as promised! Popped right off!! Well, cracked it loose and then it came off. I did have to jam it against the lower swing arm with an extension but the idea is a good one!!!
This is one of the best How To videos I have ever seen. I haven't worked on my own vehicals in 20 years, but being new to Jeeps I know I got to learn again. Had an Axle seal in my Rubicon start leaking yesterday and was dreading taking it to a mechanic. Now I'm gonna do it myself. Thanks
Great video Matt. It'd be worth mentioning the torque needed on those bolts though. Axle Hub nut: 175 ft. lbs. Unit Hub to knuckle (3 bolts): 75 ft. lbs. Brake Caliper bolts: 30 ft. lbs Love your videos- currently replacing my passenger power window regulator with your help. Thanks for keeping the legendary Cherokee alive!
I am so doing this next weekend. Replacing my 2 piece shaft with a CAD delete thanks to your videos. And knowing which tools to have before disassembly saves me guessing around my toolbox and having 6 sockets that I'm not using laying all around my workspace.
it should be a dana 30. There were 2 options, If it looks like mine its a u-joint axle shaft and if not then it has a CV joint axle shaft. Not sure whats causing your vibe but usually the driveshaft ujoints when bad will vibrate when coasting but not during acceleration.
did you open up the brake fluid reservoir to relieve the pressure? If thats not it then I would assume you have a caliper thats sticking (it wont open as far as it should.) Or there could be a slim chance your brakepads are too thick but Ive never seen that happen.
Hi Matt, I was browsing for Videos of Changing differential of a jeep, and found urs. Very beautiful video, filled with technical stuff, all the while shows professionalism! Thanks a ton.
did this only happen after you mounted the wheels? did you check to make sure the hubs were just like the ones you took off? Does it only happen in reverse or forward too? Might want to check the brakes too.
I dont really know anything about grand cherokees but assuming they are both the same axles(dana30) I would assume you could interchange one from any other dana 30 of similar year. Maybe someone else will chime in who knows more than I do. But you should also be able to find the answer online by doing some searching.
Thanks for this video, on my cherokee it's a 13 MM intead of 1/2 , just replaced the u joint front right , and will replace the hub bearing housing today, I was so happy to see that I didnt have the C clamp in my axles and also replaced the rear axel and up graded the leaf springs. Thank you for your videos, great way to save money. Jeep Cherokee Limited ..
Great job man , I'm a mechanic and I couldn't have done any better . I'm rebuilding a dana 30 right now out of a jeep for a solid axle swap in a s10 blazer , this is my first axle rebuild and probably the last . What a pain in the a** .
8:07 Isn't there supposed to be a seal on the shaft and what does that seal do? I noticed your old one was loose and the whole shaft was dry when you pulled it out.
Just replaced my two front u joints after watching this video. FYI for a jeep TJ the 3 12point bolts that hold the hub is 13mm not 1/2. Awesome video thanks
Because he had recently taken it apart. Thanks for this video! I just bought a 2000 Wrangler and it needs new front u joints. This video will be a great help tomorrow morning.
So glad I watched this video. I had to replace the axle u-joints. When you gave a list of the tools you'll need it was very great. It took me longer beause I had to loosen bolt, drink beer, loosen another bolt, drink beer etc. Other than that awesome video. Your channel is the goto for me if I need help.
Hi Matt. Great video. Thanks. One question: While in Washington State I had my 2007 Jeep Wrangler JK's front diff cover replaced. The guy doing this simple task didn't see the small fill level plug and accidentally over-filled the diff. As a result there was major seal blow-out on the front passenger side. Both seals were then replaced. Now back in Texas and not even a thousand miles later I have a leak on the front passenger seal AGAIN. What would you think is the reason for this leak in such a short time span? Bent axle? Incorrect install? Crummy seal? Vent tube clogged up? Thanks.
Good review and DIY. I would have mentioned if the hub and axle bolts/nut needed to be torqued to a spec or just tightened. As a person with OCD, I'd have cleaned the rotor surface of oil and the hub bolts rust then put a very thin coat of anti-seize on before threading them back on. For some reason there is a thought the axle nut spec is 100 ft lbs before setting the cotter pin. Good review, thanks.
Great instructional video man. Very nice job putting the camera right where it needs to be as far as zoom and as far as location and angle to show to to get it done. Love how you edited BFH! Great job!!! Very informative!!!
Sounds about right, the two door wrangler has less towability than the 4 door and the 3:21 gearing even less. But it has a lot to do with the short wheelbase more than anything. Pulling a guy out of the mud is not really towing, I'd use a winch first if anyone has one but if not, use a snatch strap with no metal hooks and give a tug, preferably out the way he came in.
wont be hard to find but most likely will be expensive. you'll need one out of a rubicon. will be an easy bolt on swap. just make sure the gears are the same.
I have a 2001 jeep cherokee stock front axle. How can I tell if I have C clips? Great vid, I am replacing my ball joints and your videos are helping greatly. Thanks!
Really helpful. I know this is an old video, yet I do have a question. If I am replacing the axles on a 92 YJ (passenger disconnect axles), do I need to remove the diff cover? Also, do I need to remove the intermediate shaft if I am not replacing it and only the outer one?
Just swapped out both front shafts for the first time and your video was very helpful. Thanks. Also, checked out your video on installing the u-joints. Also helpful, although I wasted one new joint by not aligning the caps just right in the press.....once there in they don't want to come out :). Heading for the rear shafts next. Any tricks with the rear, or is it as straight forward as the fronts.
You need to go out and buy 2 of those magnets on sticks... the real powerful ones. If that wont pull it out then you'll need to pull the diff cover and the carrier. It might be twisted and wedged in there.
Exellent how to video! I have to replace my front axle shaft ujoints on my 06 wrangler x. It has a dana 30 front axle....do i have the c clip style or do i have you pull the diff cover off?
I'm doing the passenger u-joint on my 1991 jeep MJ, and I was wondering if the axle shaft is in two parts, do I need to remove my axle cover to get to the c-clip or should I be able to just pull it out then put it back in and not even worry about the c-clip?
Silly me, you answered that in the video! Thank you for producing these videos I really appreciate the time you put into these videos. Heck, I may even pick me up some muffler bearings!
No outer seal for the inner axle or cover? Seems like the axle housing is going to fill up with debris? Didn't the old axle have a cover for that reason?
Dude you are bleeping awesome.. I have a 90yj and I want to upgrade to a superior axle kit and have been to intimidated to tear it all down to learn the ins n outs your bleeping video is so damn straight forward I'm gonna try this dude...thanks brother hope 2c u on the trail
I notice the new axle does not go in all the way leaving a gap for dirt or dust to enter the axle housing. Is this ok? Please answer soon, tomorrow I will be removing my old axle (passenger side).
hey I have a 1988 jeep cherokee limited 2 door I need to do my ball joints i seen you did that in your other video I want to know if I have that C clip in my diff before I start my project.
great video man , have a question , if this axles are bad , do they make any noise ? like a bearing noise , cause I have replaced the front rotors & pads along with tha bearing hubs and I can still hear the noise , it happens when it reaches 35 miles per hour . any ideas ? I will defenetly appreciate any help thanks man
Looks like you have good taste with your axle upgrade, looks just like mine. I am getting ready to do a ram set up and was told to clearance the steering motion to match the steering box, then set the stops to match the swing of the steering box. How ever noticed the ears of the axle yoke of the inner shaft hitting the valley of the outer shaft yoke enough that it moves the wheel 1-2* while wheeling this alone could break the u-joint or axle ear. Is this something you check when setting up your steering?
ok, i found a magnet, and it didnt do nuthin but pull the shards out. any way you could upload a video on the carrier? never done any axle work except axle shafts. or r there any helpful videos that you kno of on here?
Great video! But I think you should specify the size of the bolts: The twelve point 1/2" socket is a 13MM Twelve Point 1/2" socket. They're like $5 dollars at nearly any parts place.
i have a 96 Cherokee and i need to replace the u joint on the passenger side, is it difficult to remove the axle shaft on that side? And when i place it back do i have to do anything special to get it back in so that it will connect to the second part of the shaft?
I shoved a hunk of steel pipe into my axle tube with my wet-dry vacuum hooked up to it. The steel tube was heavy enough to gouge the dirt off the inside of the axle tube. Then the vacuum could suck it out. There was enough dirt in my axle tube to start a lawn. Then since I didn't want my new pretty axle splines to pick up any dirt left in there, I got a hunk of that plastic foam packing material and put the tip of the axle onto it and slid it down inside the axle tube. I had a hunk of tie wire hooked to the foam so I could yank it out.. That way the splines are off the bottom of the axle tube and better aligned with the seal so the axle can be shoved through the seal without injuring it.. There was a plastic part on his old axle which clips onto the axle shaft to help keep trash from getting to the seals . DANA 30 inner slinger. Or use these pimp parts... www.4wheelparts.com/ProdDetail.aspx?partNo=ALY11102 www.ebay.com/itm/Dana-30-Axle-Shaft-Inner-Slinger-for-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-Wrangler-YJ-Grand-Cherokee-/281871625516 To be honest I did not know either of these products existed till today but found them since I'm resurrecting my new 1998 ZJ Dana 30. . In my old one 1994 it seemed like the CV joint boots sort of sealed the axle tube. So please correct me if I'm wrong. I thought if I wanted to get fancy, I could have used crush seals in the axle tubes but I think they are used on an aftermarket application.
I dont remember anything like that but if you go to my channel, then type in the search field what you are looking for, that usually brings it right up.
@aunit11 - I went with alloyusa and spicer joints. they have worked out great so far, I broke something the other day but haven't torn it apart yet to see what...
wondering if you know: Just got a 93 YJ, 2 times now put tranny in N slowing down to stop at intersection. I don't downshift - just put in N and brake to stop. Steering still straight or possibly just starting the turn Left - suddenly the driver side started jumping/bouncing up and down like something went out of round. Can't say for sure front or rear but I'm leaning towards front of Jeep.....Some guys think it's my manual Posi-LOK, but I'm leaning towards U-Joints. Your thoughts? Great video - thanks for making it available.
rgee bee its the Ujoints locking up the key to this is the fact that you put it in neutral so your wheels are putting the drive and stress on them rather than both momentum and drive supplying pressure on both sides of the yoke. The same symptom makes many people think the quadra-trac unit is shot (actually the viscous clutch in it) when it is the front unis at the wheels binding.
Scott Schoemann Scott thanks for reply. I thought posi-lok, ujoints, but what I discovered sent chills down my spine. I jacked up driver side front wheel and watched u-joints as I turned steering and rotated tires. Nothing. Then I reached over and pushed/pulled on u-bolts that shackle the leaf springs to the front axle. Bingo. Both on the driver side were LOOSE! Wow. Well I knew this was a project jeep by previous owner (young rich kid), but he didn't tell me there was still work to do on it. So I removed bolts all around the suspension (one at a time of course), wire brushed and lubed the threads and tightened them all. Problem GONE. On to other things. Biggest problem now is Jeep (straight 6 4.0 L) runs great today and tomorrow I can't drive because it skips so badly. Suspect MAP sensor, but not sure. The other thing is after it warms up it seems not to have sufficient power to accelerate normally....like the ignition isn't advancing or perhaps have a vacuum leak....thanks again for bouncing back.....
rgee bee man you are lucky those ubolts didn't shear. Their strength is only there when they are tight. After you check your map sensor, check your PCM (power train control module) or equivalent, not sure what they used for the ignition system in the 93 but it can be anything from corroded connectors on down the line causing this issue, and being a 93 I will go out on a limb and tell you that you will find more than one vacuum leak, the question is just how bad.
Ok good thats what I want to hear I have already replaced the shafts on the rear end. I baught alloy usa cromply they wernt to bad. I just wanted to make sure i am going about this the right way.
I have an '89 Cherokee Laredo with the 242 transfer case, that means my D30 axle should have a high pinion one piece longside shaft right? Also, should I swap out the D30 and D35 if I plan to go 4.5 lift with 33s?
I'm not sure how the 4 wheel drive works in my 89 YJ. I understand that the split shaft is activated with the vacuum on the fork to move the coupling over to the outer shaft. So really there is one drive wheel up front and one drive wheel in the rear. If I replace the split shaft with a single shaft, how does my 4 wheel drive work?
why did u have diff cover off? do "c" clips need to be removed?.and what was that about the pass side axle.I have 95 jeep grand 4x4..thanks for the help
Thanks for posting this vid. I was wondering if this can be done without draining the diff fluid? Say I was to break a shaft on the trail, can I just pop in a new axle or will there be some fluid loss?
Great video man! I just replaced my wheel hubs and reinstalled the front axles on my 88 cherokee. I did it just the way you showed but when I mounted the wheels and tightened them down they would not spin, they locked up. When I put the jeep back on the ground and put it in reverse it wouldn't move without really having to give it some gas. Any idea what I did wrong? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
Usually it would be given that you need a front axle with gearing matching your rear one, transmission and transfer case, drive shafts, and the shift linkage and shifter not including any little things i missed. It is a bolt in swap if your are set on doing it though
@army2000ng it does go all the way in, it just doesn't have a plastic guard like the factory shaft. not a big deal but may cause problems over time with dirt building up on the inside against the inner seal. if you want you can buy and install an xj axle tube seal... do a search on google. most of them are red
Trick I used today I saw on another video was to use a small socket extension in between the ujoint on the axle shaft and the axle housing and turn the steering wheel and it'll pop the axle shafts right out. Mine were stuck on but it was easy using that trick!
Dude, every time I search how to remove anything Jeep on Google.... you pop up. Basically you hold a monopoly on this kind of stuff. Keep em coming.
Would love to see a nice tj build on here. But then again if it's jeep.. I watch
When removing hub at 6:30 you can remove the hub bolts but leave one of the rear bolts in (back it all the way out but don't remove it) then take a socket on the head of the bolt, get back in the truck, crank it up and turn the steering wheel all the way toward the direction of the side of the truck that you are working on and it will pop right off without any beating on it with a hammer. basically with the bolt backed all the way out, there's not enough clearance for the bolt head and socket so when you turn the steering wheel all the way in that direction the bolt head hits the C arm and the power steering does all the work for you. it works every time no matter how rusted and stuck the hub may be, it's no match for the power steering hydraulics.
I've come online cuz my hub is just not coming off... even after a beating. So, now I'm heading out to try this!!! Thanks!
@@Revnahead957 did it work ???
@@thestartofus8120 Worked as promised! Popped right off!! Well, cracked it loose and then it came off. I did have to jam it against the lower swing arm with an extension but the idea is a good one!!!
This is one of the best How To videos I have ever seen. I haven't worked on my own vehicals in 20 years, but being new to Jeeps I know I got to learn again. Had an Axle seal in my Rubicon start leaking yesterday and was dreading taking it to a mechanic. Now I'm gonna do it myself. Thanks
I would suggest putting the old dost cover back on or getting aftermarket tube covers.
i was thinking the same thing!!!
Great video Matt. It'd be worth mentioning the torque needed on those bolts though.
Axle Hub nut: 175 ft. lbs.
Unit Hub to knuckle (3 bolts): 75 ft. lbs.
Brake Caliper bolts: 30 ft. lbs
Love your videos- currently replacing my passenger power window regulator with your help. Thanks for keeping the legendary Cherokee alive!
I am so doing this next weekend. Replacing my 2 piece shaft with a CAD delete thanks to your videos. And knowing which tools to have before disassembly saves me guessing around my toolbox and having 6 sockets that I'm not using laying all around my workspace.
if you'd like me to make a 90 minute video I can
it should be a dana 30. There were 2 options, If it looks like mine its a u-joint axle shaft and if not then it has a CV joint axle shaft. Not sure whats causing your vibe but usually the driveshaft ujoints when bad will vibrate when coasting but not during acceleration.
did you open up the brake fluid reservoir to relieve the pressure? If thats not it then I would assume you have a caliper thats sticking (it wont open as far as it should.) Or there could be a slim chance your brakepads are too thick but Ive never seen that happen.
need more info... are you talking about a front or rear axle? and what is the axle you are trying to replace? is your 91 coil or leaf sprung?
Hi Matt, I was browsing for Videos of Changing differential of a jeep, and found urs. Very beautiful video, filled with technical stuff, all the while shows professionalism! Thanks a ton.
After checking them, it's definitely the U-Joint. Your videos for the U-Joint definitely helped me out!
Ya I try to keep it simple, glad I could help, thanks for watching and subscribing!
did this only happen after you mounted the wheels? did you check to make sure the hubs were just like the ones you took off? Does it only happen in reverse or forward too? Might want to check the brakes too.
I dont really know anything about grand cherokees but assuming they are both the same axles(dana30) I would assume you could interchange one from any other dana 30 of similar year. Maybe someone else will chime in who knows more than I do. But you should also be able to find the answer online by doing some searching.
Thanks for this video, on my cherokee it's a 13 MM intead of 1/2 , just replaced the u joint front right , and will replace the hub bearing housing today, I was so happy to see that I didnt have the C clamp in my axles and also replaced the rear axel and up graded the leaf springs. Thank you for your videos, great way to save money. Jeep Cherokee Limited ..
Thanks from Russ in New Zealand. Nice Simple straight forward and helpful vid with good camera and lighting and sound. Many Thanks !!!
Great job man , I'm a mechanic and I couldn't have done any better . I'm rebuilding a dana 30 right now out of a jeep for a solid axle swap in a s10 blazer , this is my first axle rebuild and probably the last . What a pain in the a** .
The rear just unbolt and pull out. if you have a c-clip axle that is a bit more difficult and you have to get inside the diff to take the c-clips off.
8:07 Isn't there supposed to be a seal on the shaft and what does that seal do? I noticed your old one was loose and the whole shaft was dry when you pulled it out.
They didn't come with outer seals, only inners. Outer seals are aftermarket.
if you have any play after cranking the large nut down then you need to replace it.
glad I could help, thanks for watching and subscribing!
hey do you reckon you could make a vid on how to replace the rear wheel bearing, or just some instructions on how to do it?
make sure to take a big breaker bar. a lot of times the JY ones are a little rusty!
Just replaced my two front u joints after watching this video. FYI for a jeep TJ the 3 12point bolts that hold the hub is 13mm not 1/2. Awesome video thanks
Chris Clark a 1/2 inch 12 point will work if you are careful but the proper size that fits is the 13mm.
Because he had recently taken it apart. Thanks for this video! I just bought a 2000 Wrangler and it needs new front u joints. This video will be a great help tomorrow morning.
So glad I watched this video. I had to replace the axle u-joints. When you gave a list of the tools you'll need it was very great. It took me longer beause I had to loosen bolt, drink beer, loosen another bolt, drink beer etc. Other than that awesome video. Your channel is the goto for me if I need help.
Hi Matt. Great video. Thanks. One question: While in Washington State I had my 2007 Jeep Wrangler JK's front diff cover replaced. The guy doing this simple task didn't see the small fill level plug and accidentally over-filled the diff. As a result there was major seal blow-out on the front passenger side. Both seals were then replaced. Now back in Texas and not even a thousand miles later I have a leak on the front passenger seal AGAIN. What would you think is the reason for this leak in such a short time span? Bent axle? Incorrect install? Crummy seal? Vent tube clogged up? Thanks.
Good review and DIY. I would have mentioned if the hub and axle bolts/nut needed to be torqued to a spec or just tightened. As a person with OCD, I'd have cleaned the rotor surface of oil and the hub bolts rust then put a very thin coat of anti-seize on before threading them back on. For some reason there is a thought the axle nut spec is 100 ft lbs before setting the cotter pin. Good review, thanks.
Great instructional video man. Very nice job putting the camera right where it needs to be as far as zoom and as far as location and angle to show to to get it done. Love how you edited BFH! Great job!!! Very informative!!!
I think this is the 2nd video of yours that has really helped me. Thanks a ton!
Sounds about right, the two door wrangler has less towability than the 4 door and the 3:21 gearing even less. But it has a lot to do with the short wheelbase more than anything. Pulling a guy out of the mud is not really towing, I'd use a winch first if anyone has one but if not, use a snatch strap with no metal hooks and give a tug, preferably out the way he came in.
the d35 is a rear axle and quite a bit different, although still very similar to a rear d44. maybe I can make a video for that one day as well.
wont be hard to find but most likely will be expensive. you'll need one out of a rubicon. will be an easy bolt on swap. just make sure the gears are the same.
I have a 2001 jeep cherokee stock front axle. How can I tell if I have C clips? Great vid, I am replacing my ball joints and your videos are helping greatly. Thanks!
yes, I believe so. Ive never seen one break though so just make sure to use a good quality 1/2" drive.
when people ask how I ddid stuff to my Jeep I just say I have a guy ..yes matt your my guy lol
glad to be your guy!!
did you get it... I have a vid of me removing my carrier but its not really a complete vid.
Is the process the same on a 2006 Rubicon Dana 44? Great video!
Does one need to remove something in the pumpkin before being able to pull the axle shaft out?
Really helpful. I know this is an old video, yet I do have a question. If I am replacing the axles on a 92 YJ (passenger disconnect axles), do I need to remove the diff cover? Also, do I need to remove the intermediate shaft if I am not replacing it and only the outer one?
what dirt? its as clean as a whistle
Just swapped out both front shafts for the first time and your video was very helpful. Thanks. Also, checked out your video on installing the u-joints. Also helpful, although I wasted one new joint by not aligning the caps just right in the press.....once there in they don't want to come out :). Heading for the rear shafts next. Any tricks with the rear, or is it as straight forward as the fronts.
You ROCK Matt ! Excellent advice and thorough explanation, as always. Definitely the Go To Guy to see how to do it. Stay Safe and well.
You need to go out and buy 2 of those magnets on sticks... the real powerful ones. If that wont pull it out then you'll need to pull the diff cover and the carrier. It might be twisted and wedged in there.
Hey Matt,
I think you forgot the spring ring between axle shaft nut and the cotter pin crown :)
Cheers,
Patrick
do you mean axleshaft? the front should not be a c-clip as far as I know. As for the rear I'm not sure.
Do you have a video of the passenger side? I need help in the removal of my Dana 30 passenger axle shaft.
Exellent how to video! I have to replace my front axle shaft ujoints on my 06 wrangler x. It has a dana 30 front axle....do i have the c clip style or do i have you pull the diff cover off?
if you have a c-clip the axle wont pull out... im sure there are other ways to tell but im not sure.
Good info Matt, just curios why you don't reassemble with never seize ???
Help front passenger CV axle is stuck on my 99 jeep grand cherokee limited. Drivers side came out no problem. Hopefully you are on.
I'm doing the passenger u-joint on my 1991 jeep MJ, and I was wondering if the axle shaft is in two parts, do I need to remove my axle cover to get to the c-clip or should I be able to just pull it out then put it back in and not even worry about the c-clip?
Silly me, you answered that in the video! Thank you for producing these videos I really appreciate the time you put into these videos. Heck, I may even pick me up some muffler bearings!
Do you have to pull off the diff cover to remove and replace the axle?
Hey man thanks for share!
Let me ask you something, How can we finish the brake pads noise? When on a graved road make terrible noise
Mine is a 91 and I have solid shafts both side in my front axle does that mean it’s been swapped?
ya I guess, I use the two interchangeably on ll my projects. never seems to hurt anything.
No outer seal for the inner axle or cover? Seems like the axle housing is going to fill up with debris? Didn't the old axle have a cover for that reason?
Will a Dana 44 bolt right into a 91 wrangler, or will there need to be a lot of "Expert" work done? Thanks...enjoyed your video!
Dude you are bleeping awesome.. I have a 90yj and I want to upgrade to a superior axle kit and have been to intimidated to tear it all down to learn the ins n outs your bleeping video is so damn straight forward I'm gonna try this dude...thanks brother hope 2c u on the trail
No dust shield for the axle tube on the new axle shaft ?
@jetskidude100 make sure all the bolts are out, then use a small sledge on the backside of the hub to beat it out. alternate sides when hitting
I notice the new axle does not go in all the way leaving a gap for dirt or dust to enter the axle housing. Is this ok? Please answer soon, tomorrow I will be removing my old axle (passenger side).
hey I have a 1988 jeep cherokee limited 2 door I need to do my ball joints i seen you did that in your other video I want to know if I have that C clip in my diff before I start my project.
great video man , have a question , if this axles are bad , do they make any noise ? like a bearing noise , cause I have replaced the front rotors & pads along with tha bearing hubs and I can still hear the noise , it happens when it reaches 35 miles per hour . any ideas ?
I will defenetly appreciate any help thanks man
Hey Buddy!! Thanks for all the help. My 94 is almost ready. How do you feel about the dust shields? Do I need em? Thanks Guys!!
Looks like you have good taste with your axle upgrade, looks just like mine. I am getting ready to do a ram set up and was told to clearance the steering motion to match the steering box, then set the stops to match the swing of the steering box. How ever noticed the ears of the axle yoke of the inner shaft hitting the valley of the outer shaft yoke enough that it moves the wheel 1-2* while wheeling this alone could break the u-joint or axle ear. Is this something you check when setting up your steering?
ok, i found a magnet, and it didnt do nuthin but pull the shards out. any way you could upload a video on the carrier? never done any axle work except axle shafts. or r there any helpful videos that you kno of on here?
no prob, thanks for watching!
Great video! But I think you should specify the size of the bolts:
The twelve point 1/2" socket is a 13MM Twelve Point 1/2" socket. They're like $5 dollars at nearly any parts place.
i have a 96 Cherokee and i need to replace the u joint on the passenger side, is it difficult to remove the axle shaft on that side? And when i place it back do i have to do anything special to get it back in so that it will connect to the second part of the shaft?
hi i have a 1993 4x4 gran cherokee limited my question is when installing the passanger axle does it have to match like the driver axle u joints
The CAD (axle disconnect) was dropped for the Cherokee (XJ) models after 1991
I shoved a hunk of steel pipe into my axle tube with my wet-dry vacuum hooked up to it. The steel tube was heavy enough to gouge the dirt off the inside of the axle tube. Then the vacuum could suck it out. There was enough dirt in my axle tube to start a lawn. Then since I didn't want my new pretty axle splines to pick up any dirt left in there, I got a hunk of that plastic foam packing material and put the tip of the axle onto it and slid it down inside the axle tube. I had a hunk of tie wire hooked to the foam so I could yank it out.. That way the splines are off the bottom of the axle tube and better aligned with the seal so the axle can be shoved through the seal without injuring it.. There was a plastic part on his old axle which clips onto the axle shaft to help keep trash from getting to the seals . DANA 30 inner slinger. Or use these pimp parts...
www.4wheelparts.com/ProdDetail.aspx?partNo=ALY11102
www.ebay.com/itm/Dana-30-Axle-Shaft-Inner-Slinger-for-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-Wrangler-YJ-Grand-Cherokee-/281871625516
To be honest I did not know either of these products existed till today but found them since I'm resurrecting my new 1998 ZJ Dana 30. . In my old one 1994 it seemed like the CV joint boots sort of sealed the axle tube. So please correct me if I'm wrong. I thought if I wanted to get fancy, I could have used crush seals in the axle tubes but I think they are used on an aftermarket application.
I dont remember anything like that but if you go to my channel, then type in the search field what you are looking for, that usually brings it right up.
I'm working on a 94 ZJ and have taken the bolts off of the hub but it doesn't move at all any suggestions on how to get it out?
If one has the brake dust covers on, do you have to put that back on or can you leave off.. thank you
@aunit11 - I went with alloyusa and spicer joints. they have worked out great so far, I broke something the other day but haven't torn it apart yet to see what...
Hey man, just wanted to thank ya for the video. Just got done doin my U -Joints, and this video surely educated me on how to do so. Keep up the vids !
12 pnt are ok if nut is clean and or loose. recommend 6pnt for breaking torqued and or rusty nuts an bolts.
I believe the bolts he used it on are 12 pt so a 6 pt socket won't work.
@@HOWNDOG66 You are 100%
Should probably put that dust cover back on your new axle?
What's that piece called?
@@sidepocketlouie590 its an axle seal (cover)
wondering if you know: Just got a 93 YJ, 2 times now put tranny in N slowing down to stop at intersection. I don't downshift - just put in N and brake to stop. Steering still straight or possibly just starting the turn Left - suddenly the driver side started jumping/bouncing up and down like something went out of round. Can't say for sure front or rear but I'm leaning towards front of Jeep.....Some guys think it's my manual Posi-LOK, but I'm leaning towards U-Joints. Your thoughts? Great video - thanks for making it available.
rgee bee not sure, u-joints would just click... check out my video on diagnosing u-joints.
rgee bee its the Ujoints locking up the key to this is the fact that you put it in neutral so your wheels are putting the drive and stress on them rather than both momentum and drive supplying pressure on both sides of the yoke. The same symptom makes many people think the quadra-trac unit is shot (actually the viscous clutch in it) when it is the front unis at the wheels binding.
***** death wobble happens at speed
Scott Schoemann Scott thanks for reply. I thought posi-lok, ujoints, but what I discovered sent chills down my spine. I jacked up driver side front wheel and watched u-joints as I turned steering and rotated tires. Nothing. Then I reached over and pushed/pulled on u-bolts that shackle the leaf springs to the front axle. Bingo. Both on the driver side were LOOSE! Wow. Well I knew this was a project jeep by previous owner (young rich kid), but he didn't tell me there was still work to do on it. So I removed bolts all around the suspension (one at a time of course), wire brushed and lubed the threads and tightened them all. Problem GONE. On to other things. Biggest problem now is Jeep (straight 6 4.0 L) runs great today and tomorrow I can't drive because it skips so badly. Suspect MAP sensor, but not sure. The other thing is after it warms up it seems not to have sufficient power to accelerate normally....like the ignition isn't advancing or perhaps have a vacuum leak....thanks again for bouncing back.....
rgee bee man you are lucky those ubolts didn't shear. Their strength is only there when they are tight. After you check your map sensor, check your PCM (power train control module) or equivalent, not sure what they used for the ignition system in the 93 but it can be anything from corroded connectors on down the line causing this issue, and being a 93 I will go out on a limb and tell you that you will find more than one vacuum leak, the question is just how bad.
Thx Matt. Ya I meant axleshaft. Sorry was hosting a headache and was late. I love your videos. Keep up the awesome work.
Is there a reason you did not put on the outer black cap with the new Axle, great video
It broke
Hi, I have a 1993 grand Cherokee limited, can you tell me if my front diff. is a dana 30
You make that look easy! I doubt my front end of my 1998 xj has ever been taken apart...
Ok good thats what I want to hear I have already replaced the shafts on the rear end. I baught alloy usa cromply they wernt to bad. I just wanted to make sure i am going about this the right way.
Do you have a video on how to change ring and pinion gear?
Oh okay I am doing mine here soon just wanted an idea on it
By the way nice vids
I have an '89 Cherokee Laredo with the 242 transfer case, that means my D30 axle should have a high pinion one piece longside shaft right?
Also, should I swap out the D30 and D35 if I plan to go 4.5 lift with 33s?
I'm not sure how the 4 wheel drive works in my 89 YJ. I understand that the split shaft is activated with the vacuum on the fork to move the coupling over to the outer shaft. So really there is one drive wheel up front and one drive wheel in the rear. If I replace the split shaft with a single shaft, how does my 4 wheel drive work?
why did u have diff cover off? do "c" clips need to be removed?.and what was that about the pass side axle.I have 95 jeep grand 4x4..thanks for the help
how can you tell since I never show the top of the spring in the video??
Thanks for posting this vid. I was wondering if this can be done without draining the diff fluid? Say I was to break a shaft on the trail, can I just pop in a new axle or will there be some fluid loss?
Great video man! I just replaced my wheel hubs and reinstalled the front axles on my 88 cherokee. I did it just the way you showed but when I mounted the wheels and tightened them down they would not spin, they locked up. When I put the jeep back on the ground and put it in reverse it wouldn't move without really having to give it some gas. Any idea what I did wrong? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
Is that the German Torque wrench used for the axle nut?? The Goudentight???
Do you have a 2wd to 4wd conversion video? I'm really curious on the whole process and would love to do that to my XJ
Usually it would be given that you need a front axle with gearing matching your rear one, transmission and transfer case, drive shafts, and the shift linkage and shifter not including any little things i missed. It is a bolt in swap if your are set on doing it though
Will a Dana 44 axel fit rite in or would I have to get a whole new front end ?
Can you use a puller to remove the hub, or a slide hammer?
@army2000ng it does go all the way in, it just doesn't have a plastic guard like the factory shaft. not a big deal but may cause problems over time with dirt building up on the inside against the inner seal. if you want you can buy and install an xj axle tube seal... do a search on google. most of them are red
Trick I used today I saw on another video was to use a small socket extension in between the ujoint on the axle shaft and the axle housing and turn the steering wheel and it'll pop the axle shafts right out. Mine were stuck on but it was easy using that trick!