I did mine different, I cut off the leaf spring perches grind off the old welds and placed the new perches on the axle loosely and pushed the pinion up to my desired position and then welded the new perches to the axle tubes
Not a stupid question, I'm not quite sure I have seen vehicles come from factory both ways. I think in general you get a bit more stability on the front axle but who knows.
@@JeepSheepTV Exactly correct, SUA (spring under axle) provides more stability than SOA. This provides for a more stable ride and reduces axle wrap in the rear. Convert to SOA and it becomes an off-road beast (at the expense of the on road drivability)
Hello, I saw your video really helpful thanks. I have a problem with my 04 ram is lifted and every I drive into a bump I hear grinding on the front drive shaft or when the truck is loaded what would you recommend on my issue? Thank you again
Good ya warned about not reusing u bolts I’ve run em before too never an issue so far haha hate to see one bust tho and watch the diff fly around and ruin stuff
I did a throttle body spacer and 4.0 throttle body. Just got my injectors and wires. Must have been too much for the ax5 because she let loose. Im ordinary the rebuild kit though. You ever do a manual transmission
Very good point to C-Clamp leafs before disassemble the section!! The cost to redo U-Bolts is cheap insurance. I get them made locally about $40.00 for the entire axle, all hardware included. Takes the shop about 15 minutes to get them done! My local shop also has the shim pieces in 1 degree increments, about $14-17 each. I dealt with rough country on the 3" lift kits, and am Not returning to them for anything!!! Good grief was it dissappointing!
On a ujoint on each end drive shaft,,the pinion and tail shaft need to b parallel to each other,,the way I do it,,I take a digital angle finder on my phone app,,I put it to the pinion and zero it out,,then put it to tail shaft,,gives me what degree shim to use,,then do it visey versy and same number,,this would b with moderate lift,,before you have to turn pinion and go with cv on driveshaft,,
looks steep, you might want to try a double cardan on a shaft that short. i use them on my cj5’s and they are the cats meow if you have degree issues. not a perfect solution but they can help.
Does anyone know if you change your gear ratio on your truck should you change install a torque converter with a different stall speed or does it affect your torque converter at all
Torque converter mod can allow the engine to hook up at higher or lower rpm. Example if you had lumpy cams the engine is terribly inefficient at low, just above idle speeds (rpms) so using a stall speed would allow the engine to run at it's sweet spot then transfer motion
@@JeepSheepTV I do see the jack stand in the early shot. Which given the blocks honestly looks a bit sketchy. The hi lift is inherently unstable so I would delete that and get a better set up where it comes to vehicle support. Nobody wants to clean that mess up when your vehicle falls on you.
Great stuff also is having a double CV joint at the Yoke side, as the yoke might going out of the TC more than usual to extend enough for the rear shaft. Due to increased height/distance from rear axle, stock shaft happen to be a bit short at a certain point and some folks had their yoke sliping out of the tranfer case at full suspension downward ! So adding on a stock shaft a double cv part at a " Custom shaft shop " ( There are great specialists out there and they also do balancing, at the end it's cheaper than buying an official modified part ! ) makes it a bit longer to compensate and it also minimize angle effects ! So at the end more torque from the yoke to rear axle can be transfered with minimal efforts on components.
Yup... someday, I might redo this video. There is a lot I left out due to not having the right tools. Honestly, I didn't think this topic would get as many views as it has.
The front shocks only go on one way and they came from Bilstein with the skinny side down. I copied that on the rear because it looks cool, has better clearance to the axle, and keeps dirt out of the cylinder/shaft seal if you are not using boots.
Most shocks are designed to mount the other way...and they will not work properly because the piston inside of shock is on wrong side of oil...oil goes back and forth but should be on one side sitting still... Most shocks that mount upside down have a resivor... Yours maybe right, just never seen them.
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I did mine different, I cut off the leaf spring perches grind off the old welds and placed the new perches on the axle loosely and pushed the pinion up to my desired position and then welded the new perches to the axle tubes
It's a bit more work but that is arguably the better way to do it.
Stupid question on jeeps, but why don't they put the axles under the leaf's?
Not a stupid question, I'm not quite sure I have seen vehicles come from factory both ways. I think in general you get a bit more stability on the front axle but who knows.
@@JeepSheepTV Exactly correct, SUA (spring under axle) provides more stability than SOA. This provides for a more stable ride and reduces axle wrap in the rear. Convert to SOA and it becomes an off-road beast (at the expense of the on road drivability)
What was the change after you removed the shims? Did that fix the problem or did it get woese?
Feels about the same actually
Hello,
I saw your video really helpful thanks.
I have a problem with my 04 ram is lifted and every I drive into a bump I hear grinding on the front drive shaft or when the truck is loaded what would you recommend on my issue?
Thank you again
Good ya warned about not reusing u bolts I’ve run em before too never an issue so far haha hate to see one bust tho and watch the diff fly around and ruin stuff
I did a throttle body spacer and 4.0 throttle body. Just got my injectors and wires. Must have been too much for the ax5 because she let loose. Im ordinary the rebuild kit though. You ever do a manual transmission
I have not yet worked with the manual transmission.
@@JeepSheepTV it dosent look that bad no place around me will rebuild it so I guess I get to learn how
Very good point to C-Clamp leafs before disassemble the section!!
The cost to redo U-Bolts is cheap insurance. I get them made locally about $40.00 for the entire axle, all hardware included. Takes the shop about 15 minutes to get them done!
My local shop also has the shim pieces in 1 degree increments, about $14-17 each.
I dealt with rough country on the 3" lift kits, and am Not returning to them for anything!!! Good grief was it dissappointing!
What size lift you have? Got a 3.5" and going thru the same thing
I have 1.5" in the springs and 1" in the shackles.
I did a 2.5'' spring and 1'' in shackle lift, having the same issue. What was your ultimate fix?
On a ujoint on each end drive shaft,,the pinion and tail shaft need to b parallel to each other,,the way I do it,,I take a digital angle finder on my phone app,,I put it to the pinion and zero it out,,then put it to tail shaft,,gives me what degree shim to use,,then do it visey versy and same number,,this would b with moderate lift,,before you have to turn pinion and go with cv on driveshaft,,
Geeez it's rusty mate !
Lol, it's actually pretty good for around here
Soo ...Slip Yoke eliminator.
Eventually when the budget allows
you want equalize the angles if under 10 degrees but have rear diff 2 or 3 degrees below to account for axle wrap under load.
looks steep, you might want to try a double cardan on a shaft that short.
i use them on my cj5’s and they are the cats meow if you have degree issues.
not a perfect solution but they can help.
Does anyone know if you change your gear ratio on your truck should you change install a torque converter with a different stall speed or does it affect your torque converter at all
Torque converter mod can allow the engine to hook up at higher or lower rpm. Example if you had lumpy cams the engine is terribly inefficient at low, just above idle speeds (rpms) so using a stall speed would allow the engine to run at it's sweet spot then transfer motion
So the shim between the axle and the spring is lowering the vehicle.
Technically yes, a little bit
It’s all about the angle of the dangle.
yeah that look uncomfortable to my dangle
Drop the transfer case too.
Did this end up fixing your issues?
Just the video I was looking for. Thanks!
Helpful, thanks!
Haha 1:21 dog is like whats down below boss?
What is impect prformance engine
Awesome.
Never get under a vehicle supported by a bumper jack.
I agree, that is why the jack stand is holding the weight of the jeep and the hi-lift jack is there as backup.
@@JeepSheepTV I do see the jack stand in the early shot. Which given the blocks honestly looks a bit sketchy. The hi lift is inherently unstable so I would delete that and get a better set up where it comes to vehicle support. Nobody wants to clean that mess up when your vehicle falls on you.
You can also do a transfer case drop, decreasing the angle.
Great stuff also is having a double CV joint at the Yoke side, as the yoke might going out of the TC more than usual to extend enough for the rear shaft. Due to increased height/distance from rear axle, stock shaft happen to be a bit short at a certain point and some folks had their yoke sliping out of the tranfer case at full suspension downward ! So adding on a stock shaft a double cv part at a " Custom shaft shop " ( There are great specialists out there and they also do balancing, at the end it's cheaper than buying an official modified part ! ) makes it a bit longer to compensate and it also minimize angle effects ! So at the end more torque from the yoke to rear axle can be transfered with minimal efforts on components.
Awesome! Thx
Did this fix your vibrations?
It seemed to drive a little better. My main vibration issue seems to be in the transfer case.
You never measured your angles.
Yup... someday, I might redo this video. There is a lot I left out due to not having the right tools. Honestly, I didn't think this topic would get as many views as it has.
Your shocks are on upside down...
The front shocks only go on one way and they came from Bilstein with the skinny side down. I copied that on the rear because it looks cool, has better clearance to the axle, and keeps dirt out of the cylinder/shaft seal if you are not using boots.
Most shocks are designed to mount the other way...and they will not work properly because the piston inside of shock is on wrong side of oil...oil goes back and forth but should be on one side sitting still...
Most shocks that mount upside down have a resivor...
Yours maybe right, just never seen them.
Like you’re channel but you should NEVER EVER refer to a JEEP as a car.....lol
Lol I agree! It's a habit I need to break. Oddly enough I only ever do it on video. In casual conversation I have no issues.
or a truck
Good stuff, but why the shit is your axle above your leafs… no offence.
That's the way they came from the factory.