The explanation of the fall factor calculation is right also the information that for normal sport climbing falls the number of standard-falls is not relevant. But neither are ropes tested in a factor 2 fall nor do they just "loose their dynamic behaviour". The number printed on the packaging is simply the minimal amount of standard-falls the guaranty you the rope will suffer before it breaks. The UIAA-standard doesnt define the dynamic rope test, thats defined in EN 892 in its recent form, just look it up again. Nevertheless thank you for making this video and help people to understand how there material works!
Thank you for your thoughtful comments! Love the thoughtful conversation. You are correct, UIAA 101 is the globally recognized standard used to evaluate dynamic ropes, but it references EN892 for all of the test procedures and requirements. You are also correct that in the UIAA rope testing they are looking at breaking as the end point (but loss of elasticity is ultimately one factor contributing to the breaking point.) In "real life" there is evidence of loss of dynamic elongation in four types of scenarios (1) immediately after falls, (2) when the rope is wet, (3) UV radiation exposure and (4) loss of elasticity over use (belay devices/rappelling/rope over edges). (1) In the first scenario, ropes are suggested to rest after falls - or use the other end of the rope. Black Diamond did an experiment on this they showed that progressive drops increased impact forces. The increased forces (i.e. loss of elasticity) were even present after 24-hours of rest. www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-qc-lab-do-ropes-need-to-rest-between-falls/ (2) Ropes lose elasticity when wet. According to Sterling Ropes: "Nylon fiber is affected by the absorption of water. Nylon is hydrophilic meaning it will absorb water. The overall strength and stretch can be greatly affected by moisture in the fiber. Whenever possible try and keep your ropes away from water and as dry as possible. Our in-house testing shows that loss of strength in wet ropes may be as high as 70% in nylon ropes without DryCore™ but only 40% in ropes with DryCore™. A 11mm Drycore™ rope that holds 11 falls dry, holds 7 falls wet. That same rope without DryCore™ may hold only 3 falls when wet. In general the data shows that the loss of strength through the presence of water in nylon ropes is significant. The good news is that nylon’s original strength and elongation returns when the rope dries." www.treestuff.com/content/pdf/techmanual.pdf (3) UV radiation - Edelrid state "Prolonged exposure to the sun will cause a rope to lose elasticity and become stiff. This is why climbing ropes should not be exposed to the sun unnecessarily. It is particularly bad to dry your rope in full sunshine after it has got wet in the rain or after washing." www.edelrid.de/en/knowledge-base/sports/dangers-for-climbing-ropes.php (4)The UIAA published an article in 2000 about the loss of elasticity of ropes over time with ongoing use from things like rappelling, the rope going over rock edges, and falling on the rope. According to this article ropes can shorten by as much as 10% over time and it has a graph showing loss of elasticity as a function of use over time. A quote from this article says "The decrease in energy absorption capacity depends on the meters of use." theuiaa.org/documents/safety/About_Ageing_of_Climbing_Ropes.pdftheuiaa.org/documents/safety/About_Ageing_of_Climbing_Ropes.pdf
This of the only video thats explains me what means Rope Factor Falls 7)
Good video!
Thank you! I appreciate you watching and sharing your comment!
The explanation of the fall factor calculation is right also the information that for normal sport climbing falls the number of standard-falls is not relevant.
But neither are ropes tested in a factor 2 fall nor do they just "loose their dynamic behaviour". The number printed on the packaging is simply the minimal amount of standard-falls the guaranty you the rope will suffer before it breaks. The UIAA-standard doesnt define the dynamic rope test, thats defined in EN 892 in its recent form, just look it up again.
Nevertheless thank you for making this video and help people to understand how there material works!
Thank you for your thoughtful comments! Love the thoughtful conversation. You are correct, UIAA 101 is the globally recognized standard used to evaluate dynamic ropes, but it references EN892 for all of the test procedures and requirements.
You are also correct that in the UIAA rope testing they are looking at breaking as the end point (but loss of elasticity is ultimately one factor contributing to the breaking point.) In "real life" there is evidence of loss of dynamic elongation in four types of scenarios (1) immediately after falls, (2) when the rope is wet, (3) UV radiation exposure and (4) loss of elasticity over use (belay devices/rappelling/rope over edges).
(1) In the first scenario, ropes are suggested to rest after falls - or use the other end of the rope. Black Diamond did an experiment on this they showed that progressive drops increased impact forces. The increased forces (i.e. loss of elasticity) were even present after 24-hours of rest. www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-qc-lab-do-ropes-need-to-rest-between-falls/
(2) Ropes lose elasticity when wet. According to Sterling Ropes: "Nylon fiber is affected by the absorption of water. Nylon is hydrophilic meaning it will absorb water. The overall strength and stretch can be greatly affected by moisture in the fiber. Whenever possible try and keep your ropes away from water and as dry as possible. Our in-house testing shows that loss of strength in wet ropes may be as high as 70% in nylon ropes without DryCore™ but only 40% in ropes with DryCore™. A 11mm Drycore™ rope that holds 11 falls dry, holds 7 falls wet. That same rope without DryCore™ may hold only 3 falls when wet. In general the data shows that the loss of strength through the presence of water in nylon ropes is significant. The good news is that nylon’s original strength and elongation returns when the rope dries." www.treestuff.com/content/pdf/techmanual.pdf
(3) UV radiation - Edelrid state "Prolonged exposure to the sun will cause a rope to lose elasticity and become stiff. This is why climbing ropes should not be exposed to the sun unnecessarily. It is particularly bad to dry your rope in full sunshine after it has got wet in the rain or after washing." www.edelrid.de/en/knowledge-base/sports/dangers-for-climbing-ropes.php
(4)The UIAA published an article in 2000 about the loss of elasticity of ropes over time with ongoing use from things like rappelling, the rope going over rock edges, and falling on the rope. According to this article ropes can shorten by as much as 10% over time and it has a graph showing loss of elasticity as a function of use over time. A quote from this article says "The decrease in energy absorption capacity depends on the meters of use." theuiaa.org/documents/safety/About_Ageing_of_Climbing_Ropes.pdftheuiaa.org/documents/safety/About_Ageing_of_Climbing_Ropes.pdf