Thanks so much for posting this video. My lightly used 18 mo toaster had this exact problem and Dualit couldn’t offer any help when I phoned them up. Found your vid after a quick google search. I didn’t have anything to test the current but took a gamble and ordered the replacement piece given it was only a couple of pounds on eBay. Took me ten mins and was my first electrical repair! Works as new!
Perfect. Easy to follow and fix. Thank you. 3 quid and 20mins of my time instead of £65 and another appliance in landfill. Sterling work in the fight against built in obsolescence. Thank you, sir.
Perfect. Exactly what went wrong with our barely used Dualit toaster. Tecnhical support at Dualit said nothing of this probable issue and just before i was about to bin it thought to have one last look and this video hit the nail on the head. Dualit should make this part easier to change like a fuse and very naughty of them to hide it and make it hard, even though i hazard 1000s of toasters go to landfill over this protection.
So pleased to have found your easy to follow instructions. I did everything as per your video and now my toaster works again. My heart felt thanks to you. Louise (marmalade on toast fan)
The 4 slice version does not have the thermal fuse as shown in the two slice version in this video , but does indeed use thermisters which are the little black beads cable tied to the input wire of the element, having spent time swapping over the thermister from the working side, to the non working side in my case the right side, and proved that the thermisters were ok, which measure out at around 110K, and had numbering of 104, and are available on ebay, and you know, or can measure the resistance you require, in my case after checking different parts of the toaster i started measuring the resistance of the various heating elements and on one i didnt get continuity, so had a closer look with the multimeter at where the termination connect to the element wire and got no continuity over a very short distance and then voila i saw the break, so thats why that side of the toaster is not working. The resistance of the individual elements is aroung 15 to 16 ohms or around 32 if you have to in series.
Thank you so much for posting this video. I have managed to fix my Dualit Lite following your steps. I had trouble sourcing the correct, thermal override (15 or 16A are rare and I wanted to replace the existing 15A with the same. 10A are far easier to source but I wasn’t sure about switching to 10A). The correct clips, like the ones you used, were also tricky to find, but again eBay to the rescue! But all is well. Toaster is working. Cost me less than a tenner to fix, many thanks 😊
Haven’t tried it yet but I have a feeling this is my issue as well. Model name Dualit DPP2 sold in Sweden but looks like the same model. Really appreciate the work and effort to make these videos that help people repair and save an otherwise perfectly good toaster from ending up in landfill.
You sir are an absolute genius! I have the very same toaster and it suddenly packed-up and stopped working last week, so I decided to come on TH-cam in hope of finding a tutorial/guidance on what the issue was. Lo and behold I stumbled across your video, ordered the parts from eBay and fixed my toaster! AND it’s cost me less than £5 - I’m well and truly chuffed!!! Thank you very much for taking the time to film and upload this video! It’s true what they say, not all heroes wear capes😁
Many thanks for this video. I have a very similar toaster which has damage to the plastic case, which I needed to remove to repair. Your instructions helped me to see how to remove the casing without further damaging it.
Thanks for making this video. I have a similar toaster, but for four slices, each pair with its own lever. One pair has failed in a very similar looking way, and this fix makes sense. I'll give this a go!
I have a 4-slice version of the Dualit Lite, and one of the sets of slots has stopped working (won't stay down no light on when pushed down). Bought some thermal fuses & crimps, opened it up & can't find thermal fuses anywhere inside. Anyone know where they are in the 4-slice toaster? I assumed there's be one per set of slots.
@@goomason I don't think it has the same thermal fuses. I've got the same problem, although it is sometimes intermittent. I suspect that the 4 slice toaster uses thermistors instead of fuses. If you look at the front left (prob same on right), you'll see a small black disk cable tied to a red wire. This looks like a thermistor. I bent mine back a little to see the writing and the toaster appears to be working again. So you could try bending it carefully away from the toaster to see if it fixes your issue. I have photos if you need them.
@@deskeane2901 Thanks. I'd actually given up on it, taken it to the recycling centre & treated myself to a proper, fully repairable classic Dualit toaster. Hopefully others who have a similar issue will find your tip useful though!
@@goomason I have the 4 slice DPP4 model. The thermal-fuse is per pair of slices. It lives on each of the two small circuit boards that hold the electro magnet. the fuse is labelled "TF1" mine seems to test ok with a multi-meter.. I'm suspecting the capacitor on the same board, i'm going to replace this first.
Just for future reference for anyone else having Problems with Dualit lite toasters, Firstly, the two slot and the four slot are entirely different toasters, apart from design similarities on the outside! as you can tell from some of the conversations on here. Not sure about long slot, have not yet seen one. Four slot appears to have an inherent problem where, typically the left side fails to hold down but the elements still work if the lever is held down. I have manged to fix these (but not always!) problem is in the electronics inside the cover (i.e. the board attached to the cover, not the board with the electromagnet on). Also note lh and rh side are actually different, so don't plug r/h control into lh side (or vice versa) to test - if you look at the sequence of wire in the coinnecting cable you can see that they're not in the same order. HTH
Just perfect, for the price of a thermal fuse and two crimps my trusty toaster is fixed. A well explained and illustrated video. Very easy to do thanks to your simple instructions and sourcing on the dreaded Ebay was easy. You are a top banana...👍🍌👍
Hi, great video and thank you for uploading it. I have the exact same toaster, with the exact same issue, so it was a nice surprise to stumble across this tutorial. Perfectly clear and easy to follow.
@@smokinggoldfish Update. I fixed the toaster using your brilliant advice, but my wife, in the meantime, convinced John Lewis (who supplied the toaster), to replace it. So, we then had two toasters. I sold the repaired one and kept the new one. 14 months on and the new one has failed at the exact same point. Obviously I've repaired it, but this model clearly has a very obvious point of failure. Thanks again. I've now saved two units using your advise.
great instructive video thank you, obtained 10amp thermal cut out (not 15amp as original) installed pdq BUT, still not holding down. if i hold down manually, it heats up. I've put a 'testing screwdriver' both side of 'cut-out' and it shows power either side so circuit complete. I notice a 'hold down' tab/hook, which is obviously intended to hold the 'arm' in the down position and presumably release at the appropriate moment, this is not holding things in place, could this be the issue...? Thank you for your time.
@@dfar2303 thank you for your input, I feel strongly this is the problem but like you I'm at difficulty sourcing the appropriate spare component - so not wanting to contribute an otherwise perfect unit to the landfill/disposable society. Thank you for your help.
Thank you, the tricky part is removing the screws from the base, they are one of those cheap ones that desintegra when trying to unscrew them... 😅😅 Thanks again.
Could you share a link to where you bought that spare part, pls? I did source one on eBay but it didn’t come with the crimped style ends and unfortunately I don’t have a soldering iron to fix it .
Hi Miles, the part worked fine on mine. The plug has a 13 A fuse in it so you certainly don't need a 15 A rated part. And from the few thousand views of this video I have never had a comment that the 10 A part is inadequate in any way. Ray
Great video. Have same problem but tested the thermal fuse on my Dualit 2-Slot Long Lite Toaster and it is fine. I did find another fuse with a clear glass window soldered onto the circuit board behind the control dial. On checking, this one has blown but doesn't appear to be easily replaced. Does anyone have experience of replacing this or know why it may have blown?
I'm sorry. I am confused about the resistance across the device. If my meter does not meaure anything across the device, that is the meter does not move, does that mean the device has failed?
Hi Michael. It depends what your meter is measuring. If it is set to measuring resistance then a low number, say 1 ohm shows that the element is OK. A very high number like 5 Mohms shows that it has failed, i.e. gone open circuit. Does that help?
Thank you for the speedy reply. The meter doesn't budge at all, no measurement. So that means it hasn't failed? A bit disappointing In which case what might the problem be, as it is not staying down. It happened a couple of weeks after purchase when a member of the household who doesn't read instructions tried to thaw some bread by placing it on top of the toaster and pressing it down.
Great video. I have a DLT4Pa - the longer 4 slice version of this toaster and it won't latch down. The thermal fuse you changed is fine. In fact the toaster elements heat up if the "lever" is held down, so the electromagnetic latch isn't working. Any ideas?
Going out on a limb here - Do you happen to know where the thermal fuse for this 4 slice toaster is?! I can't find it anywhere on the wires in the toaster!?
@@rob6890 its hidden under the white heat-proof sleeve and joins the brown wire to the blue wire. its retained by the metal clip to the side & revealed at 1'34" just by his right hand.
@@geoffandanncooper234 Hi Geoff - Many thanks for getting back to me. Unfortunately I’ve discovered that I have an ever so slightly different model of toaster that has a circuit board with the fuse soldered on - which annoyingly seems to be just fine. Nothing else is replaceable so unsure what’s broken. Thank you anyway though!
@@rob6890 same as mine. Dualit cheapo toasters are not made to be repairable. They are manufactured in China at the cheapest possible price to last the warranty period. So you need to buy another pretty soon! Such a waste of resources and peoples time! They will not publish the circuit diagrams of their electronics. The Dualit Classic has most parts replaceable, has no "electronics" to fail and are much more sturdy to start with - hence their use by hotels and cafés by professionals! "Buy Cheap, Pay Twice" is so true these days.
Just come across your excellent video in my search for solution to my Dualit problem. I have a DLT4pa which is the 4 slice version of yours. This toaster was purchased only two years ago and has worked perfectly until last week. The problem is that the element takes ages to get red and when it does, it's not that bright. 2 slices of bread have always toasted perfectly when set to 5 but now has to be set on 7+ to get the same result. It's almost as though the element is not getting full voltage. I've spoken to Dualit and they say this model cannot be repaired, which is very disappointing. If you've any clue as to what the fix would be, I'd love to hear from you. Thanks. Stuart
Hi Stuart, thanks for your kind words. Unfortunately I'm a bit stumped about your problem. I do have one of the much older mechanical toasters and have had to replace one of the elements in that, but if all the elements in your toaster are equally below par it doesn't sound as though that is the problem. A long shot - is the adjusting knob in the right position on its spindle? Hope you sort it out - and if you do put the answer on TH-cam for those other unfortunate Dualit Lite customers!
Sadly my 4 slice version of the Lite toaster is different so I'm permanently left with 1 side not working. There is a little black blob with 2 wires sticking out which I guess has the same thermal fuse function but no markings on it and I can't find anything like it on ebay. Tempted to just join the two wires directly although I suppose I could try the same type as in your video.
I have the 4 slice DPP4 model. The thermal-fuse is per pair of slices. It lives on each of the two small circuit boards that hold the electro magnet. the fuse is labelled "TF1"
@@Ca51lez No I checked the thermal fuse with a tester and it was a closed circuit just like the one that was working. Also the black blob device's circuit was closed. Maybe the transformer. Still on 2 slices :(
Really helpful video but I'm not sure I have your skills. I have had two Dualit lite toasters fail and I bet this was the problem as I like toast and crumpets well done which is probably making the machine overheat. If the next one fails I may dare give your repair a try!
You need a thermal cut-off fuse, rating 10A, with cut-off temperature of 184 C. The part is shown in the video, but the Ebay seller may have changed the way his page looks. Hope this helps, if not feel free to contact me again, Ray.
Thanks so much for posting this video. My lightly used 18 mo toaster had this exact problem and Dualit couldn’t offer any help when I phoned them up. Found your vid after a quick google search. I didn’t have anything to test the current but took a gamble and ordered the replacement piece given it was only a couple of pounds on eBay. Took me ten mins and was my first electrical repair! Works as new!
Great to hear!
Perfect. Easy to follow and fix. Thank you. 3 quid and 20mins of my time instead of £65 and another appliance in landfill. Sterling work in the fight against built in obsolescence. Thank you, sir.
Good to hear that it worked out well. I've had thousands of hits for this video - it must be a very common problem!
Perfect. Exactly what went wrong with our barely used Dualit toaster. Tecnhical support at Dualit said nothing of this probable issue and just before i was about to bin it thought to have one last look and this video hit the nail on the head. Dualit should make this part easier to change like a fuse and very naughty of them to hide it and make it hard, even though i hazard 1000s of toasters go to landfill over this protection.
So pleased to have found your easy to follow instructions. I did everything as per your video and now my toaster works again. My heart felt thanks to you. Louise (marmalade on toast fan)
Thanks Louise, happy to have helped!
The 4 slice version does not have the thermal fuse as shown in the two slice version in this video , but does indeed use thermisters which are the little black beads cable tied to the input wire of the element, having spent time swapping over the thermister from the working side, to the non working side in my case the right side, and proved that the thermisters were ok, which measure out at around 110K, and had numbering of 104, and are available on ebay, and you know, or can measure the resistance you require, in my case after checking different parts of the toaster i started measuring the resistance of the various heating elements and on one i didnt get continuity, so had a closer look with the multimeter at where the termination connect to the element wire and got no continuity over a very short distance and then voila i saw the break, so thats why that side of the toaster is not working. The resistance of the individual elements is aroung 15 to 16 ohms or around 32 if you have to in series.
Thanks for this extra information Mark.
Wish I had read this before buying the parts and dismantling my 4 slice toaster. Thank you for sharing though this was super super helpful
Thank you so much for posting this video. I have managed to fix my Dualit Lite following your steps.
I had trouble sourcing the correct, thermal override (15 or 16A are rare and I wanted to replace the existing 15A with the same. 10A are far easier to source but I wasn’t sure about switching to 10A). The correct clips, like the ones you used, were also tricky to find, but again eBay to the rescue! But all is well. Toaster is working. Cost me less than a tenner to fix, many thanks 😊
Glad it helped
Haven’t tried it yet but I have a feeling this is my issue as well. Model name Dualit DPP2 sold in Sweden but looks like the same model. Really appreciate the work and effort to make these videos that help people repair and save an otherwise perfectly good toaster from ending up in landfill.
Hope it fixes your problem Johan.
You sir are an absolute genius!
I have the very same toaster and it suddenly packed-up and stopped working last week, so I decided to come on TH-cam in hope of finding a tutorial/guidance on what the issue was. Lo and behold I stumbled across your video, ordered the parts from eBay and fixed my toaster! AND it’s cost me less than £5 - I’m well and truly chuffed!!!
Thank you very much for taking the time to film and upload this video! It’s true what they say, not all heroes wear capes😁
Thanks Sarah, I'm happy to help out. Enjoy your toast!
Many thanks for this video. I have a very similar toaster which has damage to the plastic case, which I needed to remove to repair. Your instructions helped me to see how to remove the casing without further damaging it.
Glad it helped!
Fantastic! Had to finally buy a multimeter, but now have spares and crimps or this fix, which worked perfectly :) Thank you
Great to hear!
Thanks for making this video. I have a similar toaster, but for four slices, each pair with its own lever. One pair has failed in a very similar looking way, and this fix makes sense. I'll give this a go!
Good luck Simon!
I have a 4-slice version of the Dualit Lite, and one of the sets of slots has stopped working (won't stay down no light on when pushed down). Bought some thermal fuses & crimps, opened it up & can't find thermal fuses anywhere inside. Anyone know where they are in the 4-slice toaster? I assumed there's be one per set of slots.
@@goomason I don't think it has the same thermal fuses. I've got the same problem, although it is sometimes intermittent. I suspect that the 4 slice toaster uses thermistors instead of fuses. If you look at the front left (prob same on right), you'll see a small black disk cable tied to a red wire. This looks like a thermistor. I bent mine back a little to see the writing and the toaster appears to be working again. So you could try bending it carefully away from the toaster to see if it fixes your issue. I have photos if you need them.
@@deskeane2901 Thanks. I'd actually given up on it, taken it to the recycling centre & treated myself to a proper, fully repairable classic Dualit toaster. Hopefully others who have a similar issue will find your tip useful though!
@@goomason I have the 4 slice DPP4 model. The thermal-fuse is per pair of slices. It lives on each of the two small circuit boards that hold the electro magnet. the fuse is labelled "TF1" mine seems to test ok with a multi-meter.. I'm suspecting the capacitor on the same board, i'm going to replace this first.
Just for future reference for anyone else having Problems with Dualit lite toasters, Firstly, the two slot and the four slot are entirely different toasters, apart from design similarities on the outside!
as you can tell from some of the conversations on here. Not sure about long slot, have not yet seen one.
Four slot appears to have an inherent problem where, typically the left side fails to hold down but the elements still work if the lever is held down. I have manged to fix these (but not always!) problem is in the electronics inside the cover (i.e. the board attached to the cover, not the board with the electromagnet on). Also note lh and rh side are actually different, so don't plug r/h control into lh side (or vice versa) to test - if you look at the sequence of wire in the coinnecting cable you can see that they're not in the same order.
HTH
Thanks for the extra info Brian
@@smokinggoldfish no problem.:-)
Just perfect, for the price of a thermal fuse and two crimps my trusty toaster is fixed. A well explained and illustrated video. Very easy to do thanks to your simple instructions and sourcing on the dreaded Ebay was easy. You are a top banana...👍🍌👍
Thanks Martin!
Hi, great video and thank you for uploading it. I have the exact same toaster, with the exact same issue, so it was a nice surprise to stumble across this tutorial. Perfectly clear and easy to follow.
Glad it was of assistance, hope it worked out for you.
@@smokinggoldfish Update. I fixed the toaster using your brilliant advice, but my wife, in the meantime, convinced John Lewis (who supplied the toaster), to replace it. So, we then had two toasters. I sold the repaired one and kept the new one.
14 months on and the new one has failed at the exact same point. Obviously I've repaired it, but this model clearly has a very obvious point of failure.
Thanks again. I've now saved two units using your advise.
great instructive video thank you, obtained 10amp thermal cut out (not 15amp as original) installed pdq BUT, still not holding down. if i hold down manually, it heats up. I've put a 'testing screwdriver' both side of 'cut-out' and it shows power either side so circuit complete. I notice a 'hold down' tab/hook, which is obviously intended to hold the 'arm' in the down position and presumably release at the appropriate moment, this is not holding things in place, could this be the issue...? Thank you for your time.
Sounds like you have another fault Frank. Sorry but I have not come across this one. Ray
thank you very much for your speedy reply, shame we couldn't resolve the problem.
@@dfar2303 thank you for your input, I feel strongly this is the problem but like you I'm at difficulty sourcing the appropriate spare component - so not wanting to contribute an otherwise perfect unit to the landfill/disposable society. Thank you for your help.
Thank you, the tricky part is removing the screws from the base, they are one of those cheap ones that desintegra when trying to unscrew them... 😅😅 Thanks again.
Happy that it worked for you.
Excellent repair description, thank you
Glad it helped.
Could you share a link to where you bought that spare part, pls? I did source one on eBay but it didn’t come with the crimped style ends and unfortunately I don’t have a soldering iron to fix it .
Hi Miles, this Ebay source offers the crimping bits needed:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173772995290
Ray
Fanatic, thank you Ray! The unit you suggest is for 10amp, does that matter? The one from the toaster is 15amp. Many thanks.
Hi Miles, the part worked fine on mine. The plug has a 13 A fuse in it so you certainly don't need a 15 A rated part. And from the few thousand views of this video I have never had a comment that the 10 A part is inadequate in any way. Ray
@@smokinggoldfish brilliant, thank you for letting me know. I’m determined not to chuck this toaster in the bin!
Great video. Have same problem but tested the thermal fuse on my Dualit 2-Slot Long Lite Toaster and it is fine. I did find another fuse with a clear glass window soldered onto the circuit board behind the control dial. On checking, this one has blown but doesn't appear to be easily replaced. Does anyone have experience of replacing this or know why it may have blown?
Hi James, sorry but I can't help you on this one. Ray
The seller on eBay is out of stock of the 184°C part - would a 185°C part work instead?
Hi there, I'm sure the 185 part would work fine. It's just to detect too high a temperature, and there's hardly any difference between the two. Ray
I'm sorry. I am confused about the resistance across the device. If my meter does not meaure anything across the device, that is the meter does not move, does that mean the device has failed?
Hi Michael. It depends what your meter is measuring. If it is set to measuring resistance then a low number, say 1 ohm shows that the element is OK. A very high number like 5 Mohms shows that it has failed, i.e. gone open circuit. Does that help?
Thank you for the speedy reply. The meter doesn't budge at all, no measurement. So that means it hasn't failed? A bit disappointing In which case what might the problem be, as it is not staying down. It happened a couple of weeks after purchase when a member of the household who doesn't read instructions tried to thaw some bread by placing it on top of the toaster and pressing it down.
Great video. I have a DLT4Pa - the longer 4 slice version of this toaster and it won't latch down. The thermal fuse you changed is fine. In fact the toaster elements heat up if the "lever" is held down, so the electromagnetic latch isn't working. Any ideas?
Hi there, it must be another part that has failed. Sorry but I can't really help you Geoff.
Going out on a limb here - Do you happen to know where the thermal fuse for this 4 slice toaster is?! I can't find it anywhere on the wires in the toaster!?
@@rob6890 its hidden under the white heat-proof sleeve and joins the brown wire to the blue wire. its retained by the metal clip to the side & revealed at 1'34" just by his right hand.
@@geoffandanncooper234 Hi Geoff - Many thanks for getting back to me. Unfortunately I’ve discovered that I have an ever so slightly different model of toaster that has a circuit board with the fuse soldered on - which annoyingly seems to be just fine. Nothing else is replaceable so unsure what’s broken. Thank you anyway though!
@@rob6890 same as mine. Dualit cheapo toasters are not made to be repairable. They are manufactured in China at the cheapest possible price to last the warranty period. So you need to buy another pretty soon! Such a waste of resources and peoples time! They will not publish the circuit diagrams of their electronics. The Dualit Classic has most parts replaceable, has no "electronics" to fail and are much more sturdy to start with - hence their use by hotels and cafés by professionals! "Buy Cheap, Pay Twice" is so true these days.
Just come across your excellent video in my search for solution to my Dualit problem. I have a DLT4pa which is the 4 slice version of yours. This toaster was purchased only two years ago and has worked perfectly until last week. The problem is that the element takes ages to get red and when it does, it's not that bright. 2 slices of bread have always toasted perfectly when set to 5 but now has to be set on 7+ to get the same result. It's almost as though the element is not getting full voltage. I've spoken to Dualit and they say this model cannot be repaired, which is very disappointing. If you've any clue as to what the fix would be, I'd love to hear from you. Thanks. Stuart
Hi Stuart, thanks for your kind words. Unfortunately I'm a bit stumped about your problem. I do have one of the much older mechanical toasters and have had to replace one of the elements in that, but if all the elements in your toaster are equally below par it doesn't sound as though that is the problem. A long shot - is the adjusting knob in the right position on its spindle? Hope you sort it out - and if you do put the answer on TH-cam for those other unfortunate Dualit Lite customers!
Hi where do you get the exact part and what are it's specifications?
Hi itay, you should find the part on Ebay, as shown in the video.
Sadly my 4 slice version of the Lite toaster is different so I'm permanently left with 1 side not working. There is a little black blob with 2 wires sticking out which I guess has the same thermal fuse function but no markings on it and I can't find anything like it on ebay. Tempted to just join the two wires directly although I suppose I could try the same type as in your video.
Have you checked if this black blob device is open circuit Dave?
I have the 4 slice DPP4 model. The thermal-fuse is per pair of slices. It lives on each of the two small circuit boards that hold the electro magnet. the fuse is labelled "TF1"
@@kevinstroud3344 are you able to get a replacement for the fuse and replace it?
Did you manage to fix it as I have the same issue with one I was given?
@@Ca51lez No I checked the thermal fuse with a tester and it was a closed circuit just like the one that was working. Also the black blob device's circuit was closed. Maybe the transformer. Still on 2 slices :(
So glad i looked this up before going to the recycling depot.
But i still feel my negative reviews of this product are justified.
Awesome video. Worked a treat!
Really helpful video but I'm not sure I have your skills. I have had two Dualit lite toasters fail and I bet this was the problem as I like toast and crumpets well done which is probably making the machine overheat. If the next one fails I may dare give your repair a try!
Hope it stays working, but if it does fail why not have a go? Good Luck!
I have the very same problem but screws that hold body onto toaster have unusual head and I can’t get them out
Hi Hugh, what do the heads look like? Ray
Was exactly this... Thanks. Replaced for £2
Glad it helped
Thank you! Worked a treat! 😊
You're welcome!
Whats the name of the sparepart, what to search for (:
You need a thermal cut-off fuse, rating 10A, with cut-off temperature of 184 C.
The part is shown in the video, but the Ebay seller may have changed the way his page looks. Hope this helps, if not feel free to contact me again, Ray.
Excellent! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
why do Dualit make a toaster you can't repair? not very enviro friendly is it. there's enough crap in this world that is use once and throw away.
Yes it's a pity. But legislation is coming, at least for larger appliances. Meanwhile we have to do our best to fix things!
Great but a lamp would help
my dualit (this model) quit working after 4 months - DONT WASTE YOUR MONEY
and thank you for this solution