Have a 2015 FJR and needed to replace the rear tire. Nice video, sure helped. Just a hint, spent many years as a motorcycle mechanic. Instead of your foot to keep the tire at a close height, use pieces of 1x4 under the tire, off and then back on. That way you don't have your foot under the tire . Hope that helps. Peace out.
Glad I could help. The FJR is the bike which stopped me from changing so many tires and doing more videos. I had one guy with an FJR and he would never replace tires as a set. It takes an hour to do both tires on an FJR. I got 50.00 to do both. Everyone else here is getting 100.00 per wheel. This one azz would come to me once a month for a tire. It was taking me one hour to do one tire and only 25.00. Also the front is much more difficult with the back wheel on. Have you ever put an FJR on the center stand with a block of wood under it? Lesson learned. PEOPLE! Now I charge people 100.00 and I will only replace the set at the same time. Besides, the bike rides so much better with matching tires. It only takes one guy to ruin a good thing for others. I was changing tires to help riders. Not for money. Now I am back to only doing it for my close riding friends. No more word of mouth referrals.
Great video man, thank you. I'm torn between getting a used Concours 14 and a gen III FJR. The FJR maintenance and cruise control by themselves almost make it a slam dunk decision. Tanks again sir.
Thanks for posting this video--- I just replaced the brake pads on my 2016 FJR, and I saw that there was a small gap on the axle between the outer side of the rear brake rotor and the inner side of swingarm--- where the big washer sits. I see from your video that this is normal, which assures me that this is the normal way it should look. Your video really helped me to confirm that I did it right
Mike did not mention that that there is a tab on the brake caliper that must fit into a slot on the ABS sensor for the ABS sensor to be positioned properly. There are also alignment marks at about the 10 o'clock position on the caliper and sensor.
This is one of those bikes that it is always best to change both tires at the same time. The best way to justify it, is that the bike just feels better to ride with two new tires. It handles the way Yamaha meant it to handle with new tires front and rear. The FJR is the reason, I will no longer only change one tire one a bike. Too many FJR owners were coming here wanting a rear and then a month later wanting the front done. Now I charge the same amount if I do one tire or both.
This is a very good video. Simple, straightforward and concise. One comment if I may. You might consider noting the Torque Values for each of the bolts or nuts you loosen or remove/replace. One of the items to check off prior to May, 2021. Planning a 4 Corners (of the US. Key West, FL, San Ysidro, CA, Blaine, WA, Madawasaka, ME), including the Geographic Center of the US (Lebanon, KS). During that time we should also hit 4 Corners Monument (NM, AZ, UT, CO). Riding partner (one of my best bud's from HS (long, long time ago and also another Veteran) also wants to revisit Devils Tower, Mt. Rushmore, as well as a few other spots along the 15'ish K total trip mileage. I am planning to 'Darkside' it during this trip as we'll likely be on the slab for a lot (most) of this trip. I have already purchased a 2nd rear wheel assembly and am currently tearing it down for a total and complete cleaning, relubrication. Planning to add barkbuster (handguards) as well as heated grips. My FJR (2nd one) is a base A model '06 and did not come with heated grips. The 1st one had more bells and whistles but someone made me an offer I could not refuse so I sold it to them. Wanted another for a couple years before this one popped up on the radar at a price I could not refuse. Again, enjoyed your video. BTW... Upstate SC resident here, get up your way fairly often.
I get that comment a lot. I can't add torque specs. I won't add torques specs. Yes, I know the specs are almost the same for every FJR, but there is always that one troll who will bash me for having a wrong spec. Watchers are always welcome to add the torque specs, but I just cannot do it. For all of the thousands of people I help, it always hurts when that one guy trashes me. Thanks for watching.
@@RideWNC Since I don't do videos I had not considered that. I see your point. Someone would/will obviously complain.... sort of like those that would complain if you gave them a wheelbarrow full of $100 bills... they'd be complaining because they were'nt new/crisp/banded bills. Safe ridiing!!
+John Casteel I try not to give out Torque Specs... Some bikes change from year to year. I like to get people more involved with reading the manual. Sometimes folks find there is a whole bunch of useful information in that little book which never gets opened or removed from under the seat.
Very good vid. That was a lot of work getting the wheel out. Not sure if I can ever do it on my own. But good to know that it is doable if ever I get into a situation with no alternatives.
Call it what you will... We call it dangerous. It is fine and dandy until you lose control and hit a minivan and kill the three children in the back seat. But at least you saved 20.00 dollars. That's important.
Not a bad idea to put the axle through to align and hold wheel in place while you align the spindle. You will need to remove it to add the abs and caliber later but the spindle is the tuff part.
Thanks for the info..I am stuck. I hear a right rear rattle from the back when the brake is applied .. very noticeable. Sounds like a 10 bike coasting...Mechanic just changed my rear pads.. and same problem
Your rotor could be a little warped. A quick eBay search found a few of them used for under 30.00. I would try that first. I have a computer balancer with a guide arm. It allows me to touch the arm to the wheel or rotor and tell if they are out of shape. I might add, over the years I have bought a few used rear rotors without any issues. Be cautious about buying front rotors.
Great video! Looks pretty simple, with the right tools. Any Torque spec for the axle nut? Also, assuming the wheels were taken somewhere to get the tires replaced?
I don't give torque specs in my videos. These are very easy to find with Google. The tires are taken to the tire machine in the next room then computer balanced.
Either of those would ruin the handling of this bike. A larger rear tire would be pinched in the wheel, it will give you less contact patch on the road surface and make the bike twitchy at highway speeds.
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Have a 2015 FJR and needed to replace the rear tire. Nice video, sure helped. Just a hint, spent many years as a motorcycle mechanic. Instead of your foot to keep the tire at a close height, use pieces of 1x4 under the tire, off and then back on. That way you don't have your foot under the tire . Hope that helps. Peace out.
I am on my 2nd set of tires and back here again! Thanks Mike! Ride safe🤟
Glad I could help. The FJR is the bike which stopped me from changing so many tires and doing more videos. I had one guy with an FJR and he would never replace tires as a set. It takes an hour to do both tires on an FJR. I got 50.00 to do both. Everyone else here is getting 100.00 per wheel. This one azz would come to me once a month for a tire. It was taking me one hour to do one tire and only 25.00. Also the front is much more difficult with the back wheel on. Have you ever put an FJR on the center stand with a block of wood under it? Lesson learned. PEOPLE! Now I charge people 100.00 and I will only replace the set at the same time. Besides, the bike rides so much better with matching tires. It only takes one guy to ruin a good thing for others. I was changing tires to help riders. Not for money. Now I am back to only doing it for my close riding friends. No more word of mouth referrals.
Great video man, thank you. I'm torn between getting a used Concours 14 and a gen III FJR. The FJR maintenance and cruise control by themselves almost make it a slam dunk decision. Tanks again sir.
FJR is much better than the Concours 14A. Look at the 2014-2015 Honda VFR800 DLX.
Thanks for posting this video--- I just replaced the brake pads on my 2016 FJR, and I saw that there was a small gap on the axle between the outer side of the rear brake rotor and the inner side of swingarm--- where the big washer sits. I see from your video that this is normal, which assures me that this is the normal way it should look. Your video really helped me to confirm that I did it right
I like that, “
if your using a hammer this job probably isn’t for you” 😂😂😂
Perfect no nonsense video thanks for making my wheel change effortless.
Mike did not mention that that there is a tab on the brake caliper that must fit into a slot on the ABS sensor for the ABS sensor to be positioned properly.
There are also alignment marks at about the 10 o'clock position on the caliper and sensor.
+John Casteel
Yep... You are right. I am going to fire that guy!
Good video. Going to change my tire tomorrow. The rear wheel is definitely easier than the front, lol. Thanks for making this video.
This is one of those bikes that it is always best to change both tires at the same time. The best way to justify it, is that the bike just feels better to ride with two new tires. It handles the way Yamaha meant it to handle with new tires front and rear. The FJR is the reason, I will no longer only change one tire one a bike. Too many FJR owners were coming here wanting a rear and then a month later wanting the front done. Now I charge the same amount if I do one tire or both.
Just picked a used FJR this helps me BIG TIME !! good video thanks.
again thank you! Ive done my own Harley work and this seems so different, in a good way.
Thank you for taking the time to share this video. I am going to do the same on my FJR and found this video very helpful.
Many thanks!
This is a very good video. Simple, straightforward and concise. One comment if I may. You might consider noting the Torque Values for each of the bolts or nuts you loosen or remove/replace. One of the items to check off prior to May, 2021. Planning a 4 Corners (of the US. Key West, FL, San Ysidro, CA, Blaine, WA, Madawasaka, ME), including the Geographic Center of the US (Lebanon, KS). During that time we should also hit 4 Corners Monument (NM, AZ, UT, CO). Riding partner (one of my best bud's from HS (long, long time ago and also another Veteran) also wants to revisit Devils Tower, Mt. Rushmore, as well as a few other spots along the 15'ish K total trip mileage. I am planning to 'Darkside' it during this trip as we'll likely be on the slab for a lot (most) of this trip. I have already purchased a 2nd rear wheel assembly and am currently tearing it down for a total and complete cleaning, relubrication. Planning to add barkbuster (handguards) as well as heated grips. My FJR (2nd one) is a base A model '06 and did not come with heated grips. The 1st one had more bells and whistles but someone made me an offer I could not refuse so I sold it to them. Wanted another for a couple years before this one popped up on the radar at a price I could not refuse. Again, enjoyed your video. BTW... Upstate SC resident here, get up your way fairly often.
I get that comment a lot. I can't add torque specs. I won't add torques specs. Yes, I know the specs are almost the same for every FJR, but there is always that one troll who will bash me for having a wrong spec. Watchers are always welcome to add the torque specs, but I just cannot do it. For all of the thousands of people I help, it always hurts when that one guy trashes me. Thanks for watching.
@@RideWNC Since I don't do videos I had not considered that. I see your point. Someone would/will obviously complain.... sort of like those that would complain if you gave them a wheelbarrow full of $100 bills... they'd be complaining because they were'nt new/crisp/banded bills. Safe ridiing!!
Thanks, 1st new set of tires for mine.
Thank you for the video. Made my job easy.
Thanks Mike for making the video, much needed information!
Thanks very much for making this video! I am getting ready to perform a rear tire removal on my FJR and this was of great help!!!
+Troy Teyema
Torque the axle nut in two stages. 75 Ft Lbs then whatever your manual says.
+MikeE RideWNC
90 ft-lbs. if you are using a torque wrench.
+John Casteel
I try not to give out Torque Specs... Some bikes change from year to year.
I like to get people more involved with reading the manual. Sometimes folks find there is a whole bunch of useful information in that little book which never gets opened or removed from under the seat.
Nice job. Thank you. Helped me a lot.
Nice! Thanks for the video.. just bought a 2010 fjr
Taking a break here to make sure I lay a comment and hit the like button. Thank you for providing this information and video.
Very good vid. That was a lot of work getting the wheel out. Not sure if I can ever do it on my own. But good to know that it is doable if ever I get into a situation with no alternatives.
Just what i needed to see🙏👍👍👍thank you sir
Great video!
Helpful demo. Thanks!
THANK YOU
Nice Job..Thx.
Thank you. Going to try this. In the morning. Putting car tire 205 on rear. It's called Darksiding.
Call it what you will... We call it dangerous.
It is fine and dandy until you lose control and hit a minivan and kill the three children in the back seat.
But at least you saved 20.00 dollars. That's important.
Not a bad idea to put the axle through to align and hold wheel in place while you align the spindle. You will need to remove it to add the abs and caliber later but the spindle is the tuff part.
Thanks
Very helpful, thank's a lot!
Nice and informative video, thanks :-)
Great video! Thanks.
Thanks for the clip. Big help
Thanks for the info..I am stuck. I hear a right rear rattle from the back when the brake is applied .. very noticeable. Sounds like a 10 bike coasting...Mechanic just changed my rear pads.. and same problem
Your rotor could be a little warped. A quick eBay search found a few of them used for under 30.00. I would try that first. I have a computer balancer with a guide arm. It allows me to touch the arm to the wheel or rotor and tell if they are out of shape. I might add, over the years I have bought a few used rear rotors without any issues. Be cautious about buying front rotors.
Thanks..I will check that. I have only 25 thousand kilometers on the bike. I will let you know.
Well, was the rotor warped? Or was it something else?
Great video! Looks pretty simple, with the right tools. Any Torque spec for the axle nut? Also, assuming the wheels were taken somewhere to get the tires replaced?
I don't give torque specs in my videos. These are very easy to find with Google. The tires are taken to the tire machine in the next room then computer balanced.
Excellent!
thanks, ill do this week :)
Appreciate the vid!
Good informational video. Can I go up in size on the rear tire of the FJR. Can I change the degree rake on the FJR? Thank you in advance.
Either of those would ruin the handling of this bike. A larger rear tire would be pinched in the wheel, it will give you less contact patch on the road surface and make the bike twitchy at highway speeds.
@@RideWNC wow! Thank you for that advice. I'll save those kind of changes for a Suzuki boulevard m90 then. Lol
List of required tools?
Thnx,wanna buy a fjr ,now riding a Kymco 300 cc, is more work tot change my rearwheel on it than this bike
Thnx for sharing
Excellent video !!!...do you have the torque spec for the axel nut ?
I don't usually give that info in videos. Specs could be different from year to year... 75FtLb then 90FtLb
No torque spec on 27mm nut?
I don't give torque specs in any of my videos. It is easy enough to Google your year and model to get the accurate torque specs for your bike.
torque specs maybe.
Torque specs can be found in your owners manual or your shop manual, not in my videos.
Bitte in deutscher Sprache
9945 Georgiana Harbors
Nice vid, thank you!