Ender 3000 - Print Dangerously and 32X Faster!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this video I upgrade my Ender 3 V2 by installing a Supervolcano Nozzle.
This is an expensive machine - running this thing for 24 hrs straight would cost $200 in filament.
Discord Channel:
/ discord
Items from this build (Mostly affiliate links):
Ender 3 V2: amzn.to/3nu9DaV
Super Volcano Nozzle: amzn.to/3vLjEEq
Dragon Hotend: usa.banggood.com/custlink/Dvm...
Giant Blower Fan: amzn.to/2ZB3fXq
Duramic Matte PLA filament: amzn.to/3CkjTsG
Haldis BMG Clone extruder, All metal gears: amzn.to/2ZwhyN2
Klemco Mount: amzn.to/3vMZCcE
Squash Ball Feet: amzn.to/3pGxwi8
Lerdge K Motherboard (I do not recommend this item, mine has failed in a dangerous state):
READFIRST/shop.lerdge.com/blogs/motherb...
Introduction: (0:00)
Hotend: (0:15)
Wiring: (1:07)
Print Montage: (1:55)
Print Speed: (3:35)
List of Upgrades: (3:53)
Conclusion: (4:13) - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
When the hotend+direct drive is worth more than the rest of the printer 😂
Holy cow, this looks like concrete printing!
That's what I thought!
However, I just did a video review last week on a machine that could literally print concrete. th-cam.com/video/ybUdVSQsNKQ/w-d-xo.html
Maybe I should try loading it up with some grout...
I once tried a 0.8 nozzle and that already seemed really big. This is just crazy :D
I tried 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, and 1.0mm on a volcano hotend on a stock machine. 0.6mm is ideal for a mostly stock setup.
To get the most of 0.8mm and up, you really need a copper heater block, copper nozzle, 60 watt heater cartridge, and dual gear direct drive extruder.
For some reason I like your style. Keep doing your thing
Brilliant stuff, that's a crazy quick print
Thank you, this build has been 3 months in the making. I'm just glad it's finally working!
Never seen anything like this, pretty cool combo!
That crash I had would have broken a normal heat break so I'm glad I had the dragon. It still got damaged from the force of the impact. I replaced a couple m2 screws with m3 screws and it's much tougher now.
This dude really knows his way around a hot end. Those initial layers looked more like frosting than filament. I bet he could melt a whole spool in a couple hours! A house fire doesn't even do that!
About 2.5 Hrs per kilo at max speed. The SuperVolcano makes sure it has time to cook, so it comes out nice and tender. Then you have to follow it up by using large 1.5x1.0mm extrusion.
Bed leveling becomes a thing of the past, because even if your bed is elevated 0.2mm too high on one side, it will just gloss over it like everything is fine.
Did someone say fire hose? Great idea for my next hotend build!!
www.firehosedirect.com/1-1-2-nh-nst-brass-hose-nozzle?feed=Froogle&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_8OPBhDtARIsAKQu0gY3L96aVsh3ZAFHKW5WTVwr06HqMxKrMYTz-XY-3KCNj8WLP2lFZr0aAi_qEALw_wcB
@@NathanBuildsRobots Getting Tender on the Ender bro!
ROFLMAO 😂 Best comment this year lol
This does it, I have to get another ender 3. My first one I converted to dual extruder, now I want to build a fast one 😄
Upgrade one extruder and leave the other one normal, then call it Biggy Smalls 😀
Very cool I may use some of these parts in my ender 3 v2
If you wanted to be super cheap about it you might be able to put this on a stock ender 3. I would prefer to at least switch to an all-metal heatbreak first.
I think it could all be done for maybe $70.
$25 supervolcano nozzle
$30 heater blocks and cartridges
$15 all metal heatbreak
But then an extruder upgrade is needed. I ran the stock extruder on here at first and it could not keep up with the hotend, so add another $15 a dual gear direct drive extruder. Now I am running into limits on the maximum speed of the stepper motor at 90 mm3/s. I fried a stepper driver trying to go faster. It really did not like that.
awesome work!
Thank you Tiago. I've got some more good stuff in the works: printing with carbon fiber and ceramics.
Switch to a CHT nozzle the go up to 1.8mm and run a 60watt heater
I would like to but it is $40 after shipping to get one and sizes above 1mm are out of stock. Hoping to try one soon though.
If your in the US check out tiny machines 3d. They should have some in stock soon.
@@aj54126789 thanks for the tip, $4 shipping is much better, as soon as they are back in stock!
This is wild
Holy cheese balls Batman
Wiring the heaters in series would actually cut the total power in half at the same voltage, due to the resistance of the circuit doubling. You would need to wire them in parallel to double the total heating power. That is probably not a great idea on a board that is not designed to deliver that much power however.
That would be true if he was putting two 24V heaters in series on a 24V system but he is using 12V heaters on 24V. In series they each see 12V. As long as the supply can provide sufficient power the voltage won't droop and both of the 12V heaters will produce their rated output. The 12V heaters have one quarter the resistance of the 24V ones rated at the same wattage.
A single 40W 24V heater is 14.4 Ohms and draws 1.667A at 24V. A single 40W 12V heater is 3.6 Ohms and draws 3.333A at 12V. So two 12V heaters in series is a 7.2 Ohm load or exactly half the resistance of the 24V heater. Half the resistance at a given voltage will result in double the current, and double the current at a given voltage will result in double the power of the circuit. So if the supply can sustain 24V at double the power it will be running at 3.333A. 24*3.333=80W
Feel free to check my math with Watt's law, Ohm's law, and the voltage divider formula.
@@angryknome94 I missed the part where he mentioned they were 12v heaters. That makes sense.
This one resolved itself. Thanks angrygnome!
Are you running Klipper? Also I would suggest Dual Z stepper motors that way there you can take some of the sag from the X axis out.
Dual Z would definitely help on this machine. I am not running klipper, just stock firmware. Just set the Slicer settings to extrude massive lines.
@nathanbuildsrobots can you install that same hotend on a sunlu t3? Do u know if is possible?
Yes, but this upgrade is a lot of work. I would recommend upgrading to a direct drive extruder and getting a CHT nozzle to get comparable flow rates with a much easier upgrade experience.
If you want to print faster, try using the volcano cht nozzle from bondtech
They were going to send me some but haven't yet 😞
So, let's say I have a cake decorating idea. Those freeway lane-sized first outlines look so out of this world...
Tronxy is supposed to be coming out with a reasonably priced clay paste printer that could be repurposed for the bakery.
It makes bed leveling a lot easier, since i can be 0.5mm high or low and still get bed adhesion.
I have the same wish!
The shit we find xD
But i mean it did produce decent results after proper tweaking, props on that Nathan
Meanwhile me using a LGX+Dragon +CHT 1.8 while i wait for Rapido UHF to arrive
That sounds like a speeeeedy build. Does that nozzle that print at a larger diameter than the filament, or are you using 3mm?
You are going to love the Rapido. Just keep in mind that, at least on the model I got, the thermistor is only rated for 280C. So you will have to stick to the Dragon with an appropriate thermistor for crazy exotic filaments.
@Nathan Builds Robots using 1.75mm on 1.8mm nozzle , don't ask how it works. It almost looks like it only warms it up and comes out ready to feed into the extruder again. Saw a Nero (i think) testing the CHT 1.8mm and got one for giggles.
I should stay in the usual range (PLA, PETG, TPU and maybe some nylon. Mostly under 300°C
I very rarely print nylons etc unless i need proper mechanical prints.
Just wondered if it would allow me to push even further than the Dragon that way i have an excuse to try a new hotend instead of boring same one.
I should get the UHF version since i have a few v6 and volcano quality nozzles and i can test around for different applications.
Btw the design of the Rapido kinda makes me wanna test non-planar 3d printing with it
@@Killerjack007 I might try non-planar printing. With a pointy enough nozzle on the Rapido you can probably get 45-50 degrees of non-planar angle all directions. Do you know of any good, easy to use non-planar slicers out there? Would love to see support for that in Prusaslicer or Cura.
I believe with the UHF it is just a metal spacer that you can buy separately, so you can always get the standard version and upgrade later.
www.3djake.com/phaetus/rapido-uhf-upgrade-kit
I should try out the UHF extension on a normal Ender 3 to see if you can upgrade to volcano without having to change the heater block.
@@NathanBuildsRobots @Nathan Builds Robots haven't looked much into the non-planar side of printing but i think there's a specific slicer for it or something like that.
And Yeh UHF is basically a spacer, but for the price diference i'll grab the UHF which has more stuff for like 10€ more in EU . Buying from 3dprima since ive used them before.
I mean if the heat transfer is "decent" it should but its not optimal.
I saw a supervolcano nozzle in a dragon hotend if not mistaken running dual heatblocks , similar to urs* xD
Is it pretty ? Nope but it kinda worked.
I can look up the link if u want to the monstruosity.
And pointy nozzles for non-planar ive seen them but i never got one as i didnt have a use to test them.
I mean from cutting nozzles, heatbreaks etc , in the the basic is "just" to melt plastic with proper tools alot of custom one of a kind can be achieved
@@Killerjack007 Lol, I read this before you edited to add "similar to urs* xD", I thought you may have been suffering from amnesia
Do you recommend the Haldis extruder? My all metal extruder started to slip and I'm looking to upgrade to dual gear extruder.
Yeah, mine is working great. It pushed the filament through even when the heater cartridges couldn't keep up and the plastic wasn't all the way melted. I just bought another left/right pair to make a dual extruder hotend.
The only thing with these cheap brands is quilt control can be lacking. I'd buy it on Amazon so if you have any issues getting it to work you can return it in 30 days.
It is waaay better than the red ones that looks more or less like the stock extruder. I have that kind on another machine and it's garbage by comparison.
@@NathanBuildsRobots hey I just got the haldis extruder and I’m getting a clicking sound do you happen to know what’s wrong with it? My retraction is 6 mm and retraction speed is 25 mm/s
@@jorgewastaken mine makes a soft clicking noise when extruding but it's pretty quiet overall.
In my short videos you can hear it, the kind of clicky sound. It's quieter than the part cooling fan but not completely silent. The 2nd one I'm now using is quieter.
th-cam.com/users/shorts9ep5iWGR2jg?feature=share
All metal gear trains (especially cheap ones) tend to make some noise, which is normal. If it is significantly louder than what's in my short videos I would try contacting support. Through Amazon you can always return or try getting a new copy.
I would consider it defective if it's louder than my first copy, if you can Amazon and say it's defective they might refund you or send a new copy without having to send the original back.
“Oh my gosh” 😂😂😂 pmsl
I felt that one in my bones. It's already got a ton of leverage from sticking down so far and it just smashed into it. Thought it was going to break!
Any update??
Time to build a voron
Why in series and not in parallel? In series you are cutting the voltage to each in half
It depends on what cartridges you are using. In this case I was using 12v heater cartridges at first, so I wanted to cut the 24v in half.
If you have 24v cartridges then you are right you want them in parallel.
Series connection does not make 80w. Parallel it does near 80w
2 12v in series makes 80w or 2 24v in parallel makes 80w. I just happened to have a bunch of 12v spare around but it would make more sense to do this mod by just getting 1 additional 24v 40w heater cartridge
@Nathan Builds Robots Have you seen this CNC kitchen video? th-cam.com/video/RrIzzSfuSMs/w-d-xo.html . He increase melting speed piercing the nozzle with copper wires. He does it on a volcano nozzle, but still it wasn't made on the Super Volcano. Also seems you have space in the middle for another heater block (or for a longer one) .
Yeah I have seen that one, super cool idea. I would like to try it on a supervolcano.
I filled a follow up to this where I tested max flow rates. The extruder was the limiting factor. This stupid Lerdge board I was using can't drive the steppers over 80 mm³/s so that was about as far a I could take it. I would like to retry with a Klipper machine, because it is supposed to unlock higher step rates.
I ran into some interesting issues with CHT nozzles at very high flow rate, I should revisit this supervolcano has the same issues.
nathan, its been 2 years. you have had alot of time. me and my ender 3 v1 neo challenge you to a speed race. I have been printing since august 1st of this year. that is when i got my ender 3 neo. Its name is DERF.... i thought maybe that would encourage you... (fr though i did some crazy stuff to my ender 3 in the past couple months.. ive learned SO much... theres not alot of videos on fast enders lol)
If you haven't already you should try taking it a lot faster. The rate in this video is nearly achievable with stock hotend and just an 0.4 mm CHT nozzle (see my video).
I could not drive the motor any faster due to skipped steps. I burned a Stepper driver out this way.
I was using a large mainboard, which was a POS.
I have tried CHT, great product.
Are you running Klipper?
No Klipper, this printers mantra is "low speed high flow!"
Sweeeeet
Can you do all this on the ender 3 pro?
Yes, the build process would be identical.
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks, really considering it. Can you still do smaller nozzles and layer size with this setup?
@@Nodeagent I just did a video on the phaetus rapido. I you want a setup that will allow you to easily change nozzles I'd definitely reccomend it over the supervolcano.
This supervolcano takes forever to change nozzles.
the gap in your heaters is basically a giant heat break and makes your first heater completely useless.
Copper is surprisingly conductive. Given the length, material, and thickness of the tube connecting the heaters, It is 50x more conductive than a high quality stainless steel heatbreak.
But more importantly, unlike a heatbreak the top and bottom are both heated, so it's more of a heat bridge than a heat break.
@@NathanBuildsRobots copper is also good at losing heat to the air, and your print head moves around a lot. Even if it is hot on both ends you're wasting a lot of energy. I think you could just just cut the nozzle shorter to have less gap and it would increase performance a lot.
80 watt out of two 40w in series, lol.. Someone doesn't know ohm's law. Parallel would be needed.
Well actually…..… they were 12v heater cartridges. Running on 24v
@@NathanBuildsRobots Ahh, well that adds up. Didn't know anyone actually used or owned anything 12 volt in the 3D printer world.
I mashed the like button, but did not smash it. Is that okay?
I will forgive it this time, but you should really try smashing it next time - it tastes much better.
"Garlic Smashed Potatoes Recipe - How to Make Smashed Potatoes" www.delish.com/cooking/recipe-ideas/recipes/a49007/garlic-smashed-potatoes-recipe/
you scare me
Boo! 👻
Oh...my... noooo....whyyyy
I need to post the follow up video for this thing. I made prints that look like a spaghetti monster, are still functional and shaped correctly.
Purgen'
Switch to Klipper, and HF version of the dragon... This looks super ugly and slow AF..... What speed are theese, you called super fast?
speed measured in volumetric flow rate
@@NathanBuildsRobots you measure max possible speed with volumetric flow rate. I see you Are using marlin arent you?
@@Wendrym yes, Marlin, it's what's for dinner.