Thanks! I think there's an issue with the breather on my old KT19s. I started it up after refilling the fuel and it blew out the PTO seal and puked oil. I was trying to figure out if there's some kind of retainer on the seal, but your video makes it pretty simple.
Is it the same method for a vertical shaft engine? Can the engine stay on the mower while doing it? I'm seeing other videos where they're taking the engine off to replace the seal.
These are the greatest vids, and you're absolutely brilliant. I watch videos for machinery I don't even have, just to learn all the interesting tips you've got. Thanks as always for posting these.....
Question on a common briggs single. Ontop of the block where the crank protrudes through I noticed like a crank seal pressed in into the top of the block from underneath up. Looks to be a crack in it mm maybe a hairline if you will. That normal for oil to run back down or no? I'm guessing not but figured I'd ask!!!
I have a troybilt tiller and it leaks oil from the transmission part where the tines are connected. It also leaks from the shaft where the wheels are connected. I have changed all the seals 3-4 times and they still leak. I also put the seals in at different depths like you said and still leaks. What else could the leaks be caused by? The oil only leaks where the seals are, no cracks in the transmission case.
I'm replacing a sump seal on my LT1042 Club Cadet . I have the seal in and I can see oil hole it looks okay but do I have the seal in to deep? I figure , as long as I can see the oil hole it will be alright. What is your input? Thanks
Taryl is this procedure the same for a craftsman mower crankshaft oil seal lower one above the pulley. I believe mine is leaking from the seal can I screw it out with having to remove the engine?
great videos...I have a issue I hope you can help me with. I have a Honda GX390 on a generator. I replaced the crankcase shaft oil seal as it was leaking. I installed the new seal flush with the engine case. After running for awhile it started leaking again. I thought the seal needed to be counter sunk a bit so I replaced it again. And after running for a short time it has started leaking again. Im not sure where to go from here. Both times replacing the seal I used steelwool to clean the shaft and it seems smooth with no defects. Any advice would be great! Thanks in advance
Hey taryl. Thank you for you're tips. I just got my mower running because of you're video and walking me through step by step. You saved me a lot of money my friend.
Always clean any area where you are putting RTV with Lacquer thinner or equivalent. RTV does not stick to oily surfaces. I will measure the depth of the seal and seal surround to assure seal is not in too far. Better to skip the Locktight since its made for metal on metal, clean the outer portion of seal and inner portion where seal sits and just use RTV instead of Locktight.
might be better to put the replacement at slightly different depth than where the original was but trying not to bottom it all the way. So as not to wear the crankshaft in the same place as before.
@@davidpowell3347Often for more popular applications you can get a repair sleeve that slide on the crankshaft. But your idea is a good one if you can't. I'd make careful measurements to get it parked right where you want it. It should work, you shouldn't have to move it much.
@@davidpowell3347For most popular applications, you can get a thin sleeve to slip onto the crank or back of the vibration dampener. But your idea is good. Break out the calipers and measure well, park it in a sweet spot. You don't need to move it far.
I have a white outdoor lawn tractor, feels like belts slipping, but it refuses to pull even the slightest of incline in my yard. There is some old oil leakage on drive belt pulley, could it be the drive belt pulley or is it the transmission?
I am attempting to put oil seal in Honda HR215 Lawnmower. Do you have any videos showing how to do this. I took blade, and clutch off, and stumped what to do now. I don't see any videos on you tube. Do you have any? Thanks.
Thank you for the video taryl, I almost made a mistake of driving a seal too far in my kroler command crankshaft. It would not have been good to plug that oil hole!
Hi yaryl i am replacing mine in my 18hp kholer i just have 1 question,do i need to drain out the oil before getting the seal out?your help will be appreciated, by the way thanks for posting this and all of your videos we all learn from them and save a lots of green bucks👍
You shouldn't have to drain the oil out because with the engine not running, there is no oil pressure to cause it to run out. Though it could slightly ooze out a few drops.
Check, clean and or replace the crankcase breather system. Sometimes I use a VERY small amount of aviation sealant on the outside lip of the seal before tapping it into place with the old seal.
If you block the drainage does it cause the engine to overheat because my pressure washer was was hotter than normal and the head was comming from the top of the moter?
I know the ih cub cadet had a belt drive generator that you could buy. It ran off of the mower deck pro, with a shorter belt. Think about how much hp a mower deck takes too power, and there are many generators that take less than that. The main issue would be mounting the generator because that would need some adaptor between the tractor and generator to keep the belt straight, with tension on it. The other option is a rare pto setup, but I don't know if the 420 has that. They might have them in a cat 0 size, but I'm not sure. I know cat 1 has this option available to buy. It's nothing more than just another implement, you just have to connect it correctly and size it properly for your power supply (the tractor)
Wow I was about to split my crankcase to drive that seal out from the inside. Glad I checked Taryl first!!! I’m going to make one of those tools right now
Could using a oil weight 15w50 rather than a recommended 15w30 make a similar Kohler oil seal leak? We have a 20 Hp Kohler Command engine with a horizontal shaft, when we purchased oil the dealer sold us 15w50, that was in the spring and now we have an oil leak at the seal. The dealer realized they had sold us the wrong oil and gave us some 15w30 but said it would be alright to run it with the 15w50. Enjoyed your video.
Hi I have lot off motor oil leaking under motor over 200k miles. But no more oil is leaking when I check in the morning. Do its old oil leaks. What should I do where to start ?
good videos guys keep it coming need your advice, i just finished rebuilding a Robin EH41 generator engine, it hade a bad ring piston/ bad bore so i got it oversized to .50 and replaced all seals and bearings. i can listen to a hissing like sound near the TDC Now its hard to pull start when it stats it runs just fine, surprising before i got it rebuilt it was starting like a breeze. what do you thing might be the problem? thanks
Nice video man. I have a craftsman yt3000 that's been slinging oil from the crankshaft pulley. Pulled the pulley off and there wasn't a oil seal to be found. Idk if it's been worked on. You ever come across that before?
i think I did something wrong on my oil seal replacement (Tecumseh 18hp). First off, it blew the seal out, and when I got the new one in, the rubber is kinda curled in and curled out (about 1/2 and 1/2). Any ideas on how to fix that or pull the seal without having to buy another one? Thanks Taryl. . .
Hey mr taryl I have 18 hp kohler is leaking oil gp from same place a guy replace the seal but still leaking u think he installed wrong he says now he needs to do a closure plate kit on it what u think
william williams I'm sure after doing so many of them, he can tell by sight what right looks like within 1/32 or better. But you can simply measure the thickness of the seal vs. the depth you don't want to go past. Or you can get a seal installer that bottoms out on the outside ensuring correct, uniform depth. You can make a witness mark before you remove them, but then you're betting that the person who installed it before did it right. That's not a risk I like to take. Though once removed, you can measure and tell if the witness mark is good or not.
Hello tarel just wondering if I can add the silicone to the seal on my crankcase for a 205cc scooter high compression motor I just did it twice in less than 2 months and its leaking bad any help I'd appreciate it alot thanks
Great video, watched it quite a few times, and today made my own slide hammer puller from your idea, using, of all things, a telescope balance weight for the hammer. Worked great thank you and pulled those seals out fine. Also love the T shirt and beer cooler my wife got me shipped back to the UK for my birthday. You're a funny and very knowledgeable guy who's helped me loads. Cheers !
Can you make a video on how you remove the PTO pulley that is on the crankshaft to get to that oil seal? I can't get mine off without bending it with a 3 jaw puller. Thanks
Taryl ! I just change the sump seal on a 16 V-Twin Briggs (303777) without removing the engine or anything else but the pulley. How deep should I tap the new seal back in ? It is installed now but, I wonder if I installed it right. Any advice ? I haven't fired up the engine as we speak because I wonder what would happen if the seal cover's the oil passage, if there's any in this case ( I don't recall seeing one). Thanks a million.
If it covers the oil passage it will lock the engine up on that crank bearing. You should only go past the cover about an 1/8 on on inch and you'll be OK
Thanks a million. And now, I have to figure out how to "Bleed" the trans-axle (transmission) from an air lock. The previous owner drove the old 1989 NOMA with low oil in the transmission and each time I engage the hydrostatic trans, it whines. I added some 20W50 oil and just can't get rid of that "whining"....Just like me...Ha ha ha
here ya go buddy, far easier to just watch the video than me type it all. I do this all the time on customers bitching about noise lol. th-cam.com/video/ALsAUUEmUFQ/w-d-xo.html
Hey Taryl, thanks so much for making these videos. Sometimes I watch them just for fun, even when I don't have a problem with a mower. So I use this video to help me replace the main seal on my Cub Cadet lt1024. When I put it all back together mechanically everything went perfectly. But when I tried to start it after that it wouldn't start. The engine wouldn't turn over, it wouldn't crank, it wouldn't fire up. On the instrument panel it has a pressure indicator lit up, and doesn't do anything else. Do these machines need to be reset somehow? I had unplugged the battery and the machine was not plugged into power for a couple of weeks. Is there some sequence that can get the computer out of sync with all the safety mechanisms? It's a mower census low oil pressure, will it refuse to start? How can I reset the brains on this thing? When I took the thing apart to replace the oil seal, it had no electrical problems of any kind. Not even intermittent problems. It operated 100% normally. I can't help but think that after having taking the battery off, and unplugging the engine from the mower, that something is confused in the machine.
My Tecumseh engine has a stepped shaft, I ruined one new seal when installing. I made a sleeve to protect the new seal using plastic from soda bottle, cut a small sheet and wrapped it around the shaft and taped it tight, like a soda straw. Lubed it up and the new seal slides over the plastic and is not damaged by the step on the shaft.
I put lithium on outside and inside of the seal. Reassembled and still leaking. The seal is just a hair beyond flush. So I ordered a new seal ($10) and I'll try again...but with no grease on outside. Any other ideas?
Did he put silicone seal around the inside lip? Doesn't that lip have to ride smooth on that spinning shaft? I guess the silicone will tear away from the shaft when it first spins and not bother the mating surfaces.
+eric laucks William of course is based on a real person. He always pays in cans. Aludamin market fluckuates so he paid on what the market was payin at the time of the video. about .46cent a pound. So...... 100 lbs. $46.00 Theres yur Dinner!
Loctite 262, 271 or 272 (high temperature) thread lock is used to hold the seal in place Permatex 82180 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker applied over the seal
I sanded the shaft until it slipped past the bend. The bend and rust together kept it on. Thanks for the response and I was lucky. The bend was not an elbow bend more long and smooth.
I had to do the same job this morning the inside kept folding out I got a beer can and made it taper like a backwards style ring compressor it works good
Out of curiosity,, is anyone else having issue after the replacement? I replaced the seal and everything went great. Did the camshaft thing and it was not leaking? Drove it around and leaking? Think the spring may have come out.put another one in and leaking from the same place!!! Lightly sanded the lip and put itr on again, still leaking? WTH?? What am I doing wrong?
Taryl...How you suppose to get that round seal "squared" in a round hole? Lol. 😉 I found an old square seal and cut the case so it would fit but now it leaks even worse! Also the red locktite didn't work that good. So i welded the hole and now the engine doesn't turn. Help!!! Lol. You crack me up bro...
All his videos are great, but this is the first one I found I didn't agree with 100% I think the red lock tight was a little much. But with it leaking around the outer diameter of the seal I guess he didn't want to chance it.
Another good video. My front seal (flywheel end) had the same issue. The seal had worked completely out of the case. Way too loose. This must be an issue with these Command engines. I was contemplating gluing the seal in and Taryl showed it to be a good practice. Thanks Taryl!
We use permatex the right stuff and put the right stuff around the seal the seal it and let it dry but very thin coat right around the edge like you're doing there with the loctite learned another trick from old musty that's what he does because one time he got a tractor that the case was worn enough she wouldn't stay up in the hole you can't leaking around it and that's what he did fix it
@Russ Gallagher That's not good enough I guess" Usually they're made in metric dimensions"" I would like to know for sure whether B&S used metric dimension throughout. I 'm asking because on US sales sites I have seen both domestic as well as metric dimensions for this seal, and may be the wrong one was installed in this particular engine, hence the seal came out so easily?
There is a model number and code number on every Briggs engine...google those numbers, it will take you to multiple sites where you look at the diagram of the engine and find the seal number. Most of the sites will list the dimensions for the seal in the details.
I agree to bad his shop is an bit far from Toronto I would have volunteered to work for a few weeks and learn a bunch of stuff that would last me a life time.
love your videos! didnt have to weld new studs on muffkin, thank goodness for PB Blaster penetrating oil! didnt have to fight the seal, it fell out, shrunk from age LOL
I love it when I have an ACTUAL problem, and i find a taryl video on how to fix it
Thanks! I think there's an issue with the breather on my old KT19s. I started it up after refilling the fuel and it blew out the PTO seal and puked oil. I was trying to figure out if there's some kind of retainer on the seal, but your video makes it pretty simple.
It can't be easy to try and make a point and be goofy as heck at the same time. Entertaining.
Is it the same method for a vertical shaft engine? Can the engine stay on the mower while doing it? I'm seeing other videos where they're taking the engine off to replace the seal.
These are the greatest vids, and you're absolutely brilliant. I watch videos for machinery I don't even have, just to learn all the interesting tips you've got. Thanks as always for posting these.....
Your videos crack me up! I watch them all even though presently I don't even have any problems with engines. Taryl...great job! Thanks.
Question on a common briggs single. Ontop of the block where the crank protrudes through I noticed like a crank seal pressed in into the top of the block from underneath up. Looks to be a crack in it mm maybe a hairline if you will. That normal for oil to run back down or no? I'm guessing not but figured I'd ask!!!
I have a troybilt tiller and it leaks oil from the transmission part where the tines are connected. It also leaks from the shaft where the wheels are connected. I have changed all the seals 3-4 times and they still leak. I also put the seals in at different depths like you said and still leaks. What else could the leaks be caused by? The oil only leaks where the seals are, no cracks in the transmission case.
Thanks for the video! I had oil spewing out of my old dixon and thought i was in a lot bigger trouble! Love your videos!
I'm replacing a sump seal on my LT1042 Club Cadet . I have the seal in and I can see oil hole it looks okay but do I have the seal in to deep? I figure , as long as I can see the oil hole it will be alright. What is your input? Thanks
Hello i can ask you how do you call that tool you used to remove the paraffin?
Taryl is this procedure the same for a craftsman mower crankshaft oil seal lower one above the pulley. I believe mine is leaking from the seal can I screw it out with having to remove the engine?
great videos...I have a issue I hope you can help me with. I have a Honda GX390 on a generator. I replaced the crankcase shaft oil seal as it was leaking. I installed the new seal flush with the engine case. After running for awhile it started leaking again. I thought the seal needed to be counter sunk a bit so I replaced it again. And after running for a short time it has started leaking again. Im not sure where to go from here. Both times replacing the seal I used steelwool to clean the shaft and it seems smooth with no defects. Any advice would be great! Thanks in advance
Hey taryl. Thank you for you're tips. I just got my mower running because of you're video and walking me through step by step. You saved me a lot of money my friend.
Always clean any area where you are putting RTV with Lacquer thinner or equivalent. RTV does not stick to oily surfaces. I will measure the depth of the seal and seal surround to assure seal is not in too far. Better to skip the Locktight since its made for metal on metal, clean the outer portion of seal and inner portion where seal sits and just use RTV instead of Locktight.
might be better to put the replacement at slightly different depth than where the original was but trying not to bottom it all the way. So as not to wear the crankshaft in the same place as before.
@@davidpowell3347Often for more popular applications you can get a repair sleeve that slide on the crankshaft. But your idea is a good one if you can't. I'd make careful measurements to get it parked right where you want it. It should work, you shouldn't have to move it much.
@@davidpowell3347For most popular applications, you can get a thin sleeve to slip onto the crank or back of the vibration dampener.
But your idea is good. Break out the calipers and measure well, park it in a sweet spot. You don't need to move it far.
What seal can I use on a predator 708 cc engine?? They don’t make them anymore. Any ideas would be appreciated
Do you happen to know what the torque spec is for that clutch and pulled bolt on the end of the crank?
Love the seal puller. One question, wouldn't the excess Loctite on the back side fill that drain hole at the bottom of seal ?
I'm pretty sure lock-tite is Not a recommended lubricant.
I have a white outdoor lawn tractor, feels like belts slipping, but it refuses to pull even the slightest of incline in my yard. There is some old oil leakage on drive belt pulley, could it be the drive belt pulley or is it the transmission?
I am attempting to put oil seal in Honda HR215 Lawnmower. Do you have any videos showing how to do this. I took blade, and clutch off, and stumped what to do now. I don't see any videos on you tube. Do you have any? Thanks.
my tecumseh 7.5hp snowblower is leaking from where the engine attaches to the snowblower frame itself.. is this fixable ?
Thank you for the video taryl, I almost made a mistake of driving a seal too far in my kroler command crankshaft. It would not have been good to plug that oil hole!
Hi yaryl i am replacing mine in my 18hp kholer i just have 1 question,do i need to drain out the oil before getting the seal out?your help will be appreciated, by the way thanks for posting this and all of your videos we all learn from them and save a lots of green bucks👍
You shouldn't have to drain the oil out because with the engine not running, there is no oil pressure to cause it to run out. Though it could slightly ooze out a few drops.
No
What causes the PTO oil seal on a Vanguard Y-16 to blow out of it's seat (installed location)?
Check, clean and or replace the crankcase breather system. Sometimes I use a VERY small amount of aviation sealant on the outside lip of the seal before tapping it into place with the old seal.
If you block the drainage does it cause the engine to overheat because my pressure washer was was hotter than normal and the head was comming from the top of the moter?
Tayler can a pto generator be ran off the front of a deere 420 garden tractor. Thanks for your great films
I know the ih cub cadet had a belt drive generator that you could buy. It ran off of the mower deck pro, with a shorter belt. Think about how much hp a mower deck takes too power, and there are many generators that take less than that. The main issue would be mounting the generator because that would need some adaptor between the tractor and generator to keep the belt straight, with tension on it. The other option is a rare pto setup, but I don't know if the 420 has that. They might have them in a cat 0 size, but I'm not sure. I know cat 1 has this option available to buy. It's nothing more than just another implement, you just have to connect it correctly and size it properly for your power supply (the tractor)
Wow I was about to split my crankcase to drive that seal out from the inside. Glad I checked Taryl first!!! I’m going to make one of those tools right now
Could using a oil weight 15w50 rather than a recommended 15w30 make a similar Kohler oil seal leak? We have a 20 Hp Kohler Command engine with a horizontal shaft, when we purchased oil the dealer sold us 15w50, that was in the spring and now we have an oil leak at the seal. The dealer realized they had sold us the wrong oil and gave us some 15w30 but said it would be alright to run it with the 15w50. Enjoyed your video.
Can you really use Red Loctite on that seal? Thanks!
lock tite 515
Taryl.. I used permatech to seal valve gasket, but I need to remove as actually head gasket blown, Is there anyway to break a Permatech seal
What kind of Loctite did you use? Went to the store and there are bunch of different types.
Do the same to bottom oil seal on Kohler courage to remove?
Hi I have lot off motor oil leaking under motor over 200k miles. But no more oil is leaking when I check in the morning. Do its old oil leaks. What should I do where to start ?
I did NOT know it was possible to remove a seal with the crankshaft still in.. learn something new every day! Nice seal puller you made there! Cheers!
Have to get that crankshaft nice and clean,smooth metal not rust.
How do you know when to stop tapping the seal in?
good videos guys keep it coming
need your advice, i just finished rebuilding a Robin EH41 generator engine, it hade a bad ring piston/ bad bore so i got it oversized to .50 and replaced all seals and bearings. i can listen to a hissing like sound near the TDC Now its hard to pull start when it stats it runs just fine, surprising before i got it rebuilt it was starting like a breeze. what do you thing might be the problem?
thanks
If the seal has been driven in To far will that cause oil to spray out of the rocker cover
I'm having trouble getting the oil pan off past a bent crankshaft. Any suggestions to make it easier.
Bennie Chadwick possibly cut the shaft off.
I think they ran over something it was bent down by the blade.
Nice video man. I have a craftsman yt3000 that's been slinging oil from the crankshaft pulley. Pulled the pulley off and there wasn't a oil seal to be found. Idk if it's been worked on. You ever come across that before?
i think I did something wrong on my oil seal replacement (Tecumseh 18hp). First off, it blew the seal out, and when I got the new one in, the rubber is kinda curled in and curled out (about 1/2 and 1/2). Any ideas on how to fix that or pull the seal without having to buy another one? Thanks Taryl. . .
Taryl knows his stuff
this is a vintage episode, no seal noises. (so i had to make the sound effects in this one) (seal barks)
Love that intro and the goofy character. Darn fine tip on seal removal too. Thanks Taryl.
Hey mr taryl I have 18 hp kohler is leaking oil gp from same place a guy replace the seal but still leaking u think he installed wrong he says now he needs to do a closure plate kit on it what u think
What engine is that? I cant find anymore videos for that engine
quick question: how would you know for sure that you're not too deep when putting in the new seal? i do not what to be out too far either. thanx.
william williams I'm sure after doing so many of them, he can tell by sight what right looks like within 1/32 or better. But you can simply measure the thickness of the seal vs. the depth you don't want to go past. Or you can get a seal installer that bottoms out on the outside ensuring correct, uniform depth. You can make a witness mark before you remove them, but then you're betting that the person who installed it before did it right. That's not a risk I like to take. Though once removed, you can measure and tell if the witness mark is good or not.
Hello tarel just wondering if I can add the silicone to the seal on my crankcase for a 205cc scooter high compression motor I just did it twice in less than 2 months and its leaking bad any help I'd appreciate it alot thanks
Great video, watched it quite a few times, and today made my own slide hammer puller from your idea, using, of all things, a telescope balance weight for the hammer. Worked great thank you and pulled those seals out fine. Also love the T shirt and beer cooler my wife got me shipped back to the UK for my birthday. You're a funny and very knowledgeable guy who's helped me loads. Cheers !
which threadlocker & silicone
Can you make a video on how you remove the PTO pulley that is on the crankshaft to get to that oil seal? I can't get mine off without bending it with a 3 jaw puller. Thanks
On really stubborn ones you may find it necessary to heat the pulley up and pry it off
Taryl any videos on crank shaft end play
My oil seal blew out because of crank case pressure,after 3 attempts found out the hole behind the seal which you mentioned,was clogged!
Taryl ! I just change the sump seal on a 16 V-Twin Briggs (303777) without removing the engine or anything else but the pulley. How deep should I tap the new seal back in ? It is installed now but, I wonder if I installed it right. Any advice ? I haven't fired up the engine as we speak because I wonder what would happen if the seal cover's the oil passage, if there's any in this case ( I don't recall seeing one). Thanks a million.
If it covers the oil passage it will lock the engine up on that crank bearing. You should only go past the cover about an 1/8 on on inch and you'll be OK
Thanks a million. And now, I have to figure out how to "Bleed" the trans-axle (transmission) from an air lock. The previous owner drove the old 1989 NOMA with low oil in the transmission and each time I engage the hydrostatic trans, it whines. I added some 20W50 oil and just can't get rid of that "whining"....Just like me...Ha ha ha
here ya go buddy, far easier to just watch the video than me type it all. I do this all the time on customers bitching about noise lol.
th-cam.com/video/ALsAUUEmUFQ/w-d-xo.html
Pretty goofy, but very helpful and puts more details in the info than most people. Great job!!
I can't seem to find the exhaust nut torque spec on a Kohler command ch22... any ideas? Thx
Do it by hand, or around 25-30 ft lbs.
Hey Taryl, thanks so much for making these videos. Sometimes I watch them just for fun, even when I don't have a problem with a mower. So I use this video to help me replace the main seal on my Cub Cadet lt1024. When I put it all back together mechanically everything went perfectly. But when I tried to start it after that it wouldn't start. The engine wouldn't turn over, it wouldn't crank, it wouldn't fire up. On the instrument panel it has a pressure indicator lit up, and doesn't do anything else. Do these machines need to be reset somehow? I had unplugged the battery and the machine was not plugged into power for a couple of weeks. Is there some sequence that can get the computer out of sync with all the safety mechanisms? It's a mower census low oil pressure, will it refuse to start? How can I reset the brains on this thing? When I took the thing apart to replace the oil seal, it had no electrical problems of any kind. Not even intermittent problems. It operated 100% normally. I can't help but think that after having taking the battery off, and unplugging the engine from the mower, that something is confused in the machine.
very nice style man, I like your video, However, why you ended wit Silicone man?! It was necessary ?
My Tecumseh engine has a stepped shaft, I ruined one new seal when installing.
I made a sleeve to protect the new seal using plastic from soda bottle, cut a small sheet and wrapped it around the shaft and taped it tight, like a soda straw. Lubed it up and the new seal slides over the plastic and is not damaged by the step on the shaft.
so what happens if you don't use loctite and the surface had oil on it?
I put lithium on outside and inside of the seal. Reassembled and still leaking. The seal is just a hair beyond flush. So I ordered a new seal ($10) and I'll try again...but with no grease on outside. Any other ideas?
Did he put silicone seal around the inside lip? Doesn't that lip have to ride smooth on that spinning shaft? I guess the silicone will tear away from the shaft when it first spins and not bother the mating surfaces.
No he didn't.
I'z just got to know how many cans you make william find for that there repair?
Pissa movie! me and the misses have watched it at least a dozen time.
+eric laucks William of course is based on a real person. He always pays in cans. Aludamin market fluckuates so he paid on what the market was payin at the time of the video. about .46cent a pound. So...... 100 lbs. $46.00 Theres yur Dinner!
Will a bad seal also cause the shaft of my mower to shake? The shaft isn’t bent
No. A bad bearing will.
Loctite 262, 271 or 272 (high temperature) thread lock is used to hold the seal in place
Permatex 82180 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker applied over the seal
I sanded the shaft until it slipped past the bend. The bend and rust together kept it on. Thanks for the response and I was lucky. The bend was not an elbow bend more long and smooth.
theres your dinner! thanks mate.. mick from australia.
I love taryl fixes all channel bless man
Works great! I just tried it and it worked perfectly, much easier than using the old screwdriver method.
I had to do the same job this morning the inside kept folding out I got a beer can and made it taper like a backwards style ring compressor it works good
Out of curiosity,, is anyone else having issue after the replacement? I replaced the seal and everything went great. Did the camshaft thing and it was not leaking? Drove it around and leaking? Think the spring may have come out.put another one in and leaking from the same place!!! Lightly sanded the lip and put itr on again, still leaking? WTH?? What am I doing wrong?
That seal puller is pretty brilliant haha
I love your show I watch all of the episodes
Nice tips on seal removal, really helped me out! Thanks again Taryl Dactyl!
Taryl...How you suppose to get that round seal "squared" in a round hole? Lol. 😉 I found an old square seal and cut the case so it would fit but now it leaks even worse! Also the red locktite didn't work that good. So i welded the hole and now the engine doesn't turn. Help!!! Lol. You crack me up bro...
Thanks Taryl
My Kawasaki FC420V has a ring or something in the opening and the seal doesn't want to go in more than half way
All his videos are great, but this is the first one I found I didn't agree with 100% I think the red lock tight was a little much. But with it leaking around the outer diameter of the seal I guess he didn't want to chance it.
Another good video. My front seal (flywheel end) had the same issue. The seal had worked completely out of the case. Way too loose. This must be an issue with these Command engines. I was contemplating gluing the seal in and Taryl showed it to be a good practice. Thanks Taryl!
Good job! This video helped me out quite a bit. Thanks, man. Thumbs up
No oil on the seal lip first?
Anyone out there know about the Kawasaki fh engines? (fh531v 18 horsepower). Appears to be leaking from the bottom drive shaft.
We use permatex the right stuff and put the right stuff around the seal the seal it and let it dry but very thin coat right around the edge like you're doing there with the loctite learned another trick from old musty that's what he does because one time he got a tractor that the case was worn enough she wouldn't stay up in the hole you can't leaking around it and that's what he did fix it
LOL! very informative and super funny!!!!!
I have a motor briggs stratton platinum engine series 24 hp I need to know the part number of the oil seal
@Russ Gallagher That's not good enough I guess" Usually they're made in metric dimensions"" I would like to know for sure whether B&S used metric dimension throughout. I 'm asking because on US sales sites I have seen both domestic as well as metric dimensions for this seal, and may be the wrong one was installed in this particular engine, hence the seal came out so easily?
There is a model number and code number on every Briggs engine...google those numbers, it will take you to multiple sites where you look at the diagram of the engine and find the seal number. Most of the sites will list the dimensions for the seal in the details.
Thank you.
That was special 😀😀
And there's ur dinner!! LOL! Good job :)
Great info and fine entertainment. Thanks brother
Yup the good ol' Morgan knocker or slide hammer.
I would've used the silicone where he put the lock tite instead. And oiled the inner lip of the seal.
How about wrapping some teflon tape around it before pressing it back in?
How will I know the seal is in far enough but NOT too far?
thnks taryl
OK. I STUMBLED ON THIS GUYU...THIS MADE MY START OF 2017...TOO FUNNY, BUT HELPFUL!
I going to do this soon thanks
Man I never thought of using PVC pipe as a seal driver . Just what I need to use . Thanks
Awesome puller!!
Taryl is a crazy dude man
AWESOME!! I love these videos!! lol..
I agree to bad his shop is an bit far from Toronto I would have volunteered to work for a few weeks and learn a bunch of stuff that would last me a life time.
They got me on pillows now!
love your videos! didnt have to weld new studs on muffkin, thank goodness for PB Blaster penetrating oil! didnt have to fight the seal, it fell out, shrunk from age LOL