If you ever wanted a change from spinning spanners everyday you would make an awesome trade school lecturer. The apprentices would be lucky to have someone with such a wide range of knowledge and real life experience.
Hate to say it brother... but Those that can... Do... those that can't... Teach... Some of the worst techs have become instructors in my experience... and they pass on their talents to others... yikes....
Good explanation. A bonus would have been talks about an ice tank in the air to water intercooler setup to get temps below ambient. Keep up the great work!
Al, super impressed by your statement that the AC evaporator absorbs heat (rather than cooling the air, which is probably what most people would say). Very science-y of you!
Great. My only slight adjustment is the idea of thermal boundary layers. "things make heat, they heat air on surface, air blows over and rips that heated layer off" Sweet goodness, TSF is one of a kind on YT
@The Skid Factory did a good job demonstrating at 8:29 why this one has been sacrificed, it has lost almost all of its sound and tune, so will not align the molecules in the right direction for maximum cooling efficiency, meaning less boost and less power! Always ensure that your coolers are tuned correctly to your vehicle.
totally worth it, check out " Engine Masters" episode on ceramic coating some hooker headers, its in their dyno room, great comparison, factual and very convincing.......keeps heat outa the engine compartment, and improves thermal dynamics...ie: hot air rushes more quickly towards the exit, your exhaust......flow, baby, flow
@@stevenjohann5435 Not just faster to the exit, but to spool your hairdryer.. Also helps when you have a turbo exhaust housing right beside your brake master cylinder like me lol. coated/wrap/turbo beanie/heat shield 😂
Hi Al! A great topic for a Quick Tech would be the evolution of ignition systems from breaker point distributors through CDI igniter systems with magnetic triggers and on to proper engine computers. A lot of shadetree mechanics hate engine computers because they don't understand them & their benefits, such as elimination of distributors and mechanical fuel injection as well as the flexibility gained in fine adjustments with air/fuel mixture, timing adjustments, etc.
Quick tech subject: Engine sensors and what they do with the focus on what ones are good, common, cheap that can be adapted into your modified car for ECU’s Etc Cheers guys 👍
Good video One thing I’ve tried to explain to turbo diesel owners is the difference between intercoolers for petrol turbos and turbo diesels. Petrol turbos (street cars) tend to use bar and plate intercoolers because they are designed to act as a heat sink, due to fact that the turbo is usually on for short periods of time and the absorbed heat can dissipate between periods of boost. Turbo diesels are on boost all the time and the intercooler has to dissipate the heat constantly, so the tube and fin design is the most efficient for turbo diesels (whether top or front mounted) and can be a lot smaller and lighter than a bar and plate intercooler. Many aftermarket dealers promote their bar and plate intercoolers as being better than a tube and fin, but they neglect to note that what they sell are substantially larger units by volume than the tube and fin intercooler they replace. If you had a tube and fin intercooler of the same volume, it would be far more efficient. However, tube and fin intercoolers can’t be made as simply as bar and plate, which come from China in great slabs that are just cut to size; so it’s much easier to produce a bar and plate intercooler than a tube and fin one. I’d be interested to hear your thoughts on this.
Killer break down, this series is a really great addition to the channel! I think that most people believe that there's a WHOLE lot of black magik going on in the various cooling systems of their cars; but, the reality is that, as essentially laid out here, they're ALL just *radiatiators*, every single one of them! Whether liquid-to-air or liquid-to-liquid(remember elementary science class; both liquids and gasses are FLUIDS!), they're still just metal matrixs that allow two separate fluids to exchange heat between one another via a single metallic wall acting as the thermal transfer medium. Once you realize this, all of the voodoo magik goes away and things become much more simple to understand and diagnose. The only addendum that I would add is that, first, heat soak is a very relevant factor in any cooling system(and an explanation of what exactly 'heat soak' means) and, second, in a related minor correction, liquid-to-air intercooling DOES offer the potential of marginally greater cooling performance(lower charge air temps), particularly in an 'endurance' application. While an air-to-air intercooler will heat soak and normalize(while it starts out at ambient temperature, once operated long enough, the temp of the intercooler itself will average out somewhere between the higher temp of the incoming charge air and the lower temp of the outside ambient air, somewhat limiting its cooling/heat transfer ability), this heat soak isn't near as dramatic on a liquid-to-air intercooler because the whole system contains SIGNIFICANTLY greater thermal capacity thanks to the great density of water/coolant. Because you have a pretty large volume of coolant in the reservoir at ambient temperature, only the fraction of that coolant that passing through the intercooler(radiator) at any given time is being heated up by the incoming hot charge air charge, and that coolant then goes through another liquid-to-air heat exchanger(radiator) to offload most of that heat into the outside atmosphere, the entire liquid-to-air intercooling system takes a VERY long time to heat soak in comparison, and when it does finally heat soak(as long as there isn't a cooling bottleneck in the system mind you - it only cools as effectively as its lowest performing component) it normalizes at a much[relatively speaking] lower temperature than the air-to-air system does. This is why the vast majority of modern factory forced induction vehicles use the certainly much more complex liquid-to-air intercooling system while really only budget cars and giant diesel workhorses(and the odd anomaly of course) use air-to-air intercooling from the factory anymore. Don't get me wrong though, I don't mean to rant about this or anything at all, these videos are just a bit of a 'thorough summary' I would probably call it after all; and, explaining why someone/race teams/the factory would choose to use the quite complex, quite expensive liquid-to-air intercooling over air-to-air is certainly enough to confuse people just learning about automotive cooling systems. With that said, part of the reason that I leave these giant comments is in the hopes that someone who may have questions about "why liquid over air" and what not may come across it and learn a little something that they may not have known before - and, for that matter, if anyone has questions about liquid-to-air intercooling, feel free to ask because I do have experience with & knowledge about them(see some of my old uploads for an example of where I've worked if you have a credibility question or anything), I do LOVE to talk about this shit after all!
I sympathise Al. trying to put all your intuitive knowledge into words, while infront of a camera. never the less, you did a wicked job. cheers for the skid factory! you guys are great
I too would like to see a subject on brakes, to show to most people out there that quad pots aren't necessarily better than a bigger rotor with twins etc. Cheers for another well explained video 👍
Extra tip: The more coolers you stack in front of each other, the less efficient they are. International learned this with the Maxxforce13 engine and a rad pack that was about 600mm thick. from front to back it went: -> A/C condenser -> Low temp rad (for the EGR & air to water intercooler) -> Primary air to air intercooler -> radiator/trans cooler -> Secondary air to air intercooler. The small gaps between them all would suck in all sorts of shmutz and it takes a good hour with a pressure washer to get it cleaned out.
Al you should look into being a trade school teacher. So much knowledge you have and explained much better then the teachers I had when I was at trade school
arguably the perfect video.... throughly go through the basics of heat exchangers, the different types and why they are used. what more could you ask for?
It's worth mentioning water/air charge cooling can allow you to get intake temps below ambient air temperature by using ice in the systems header tank, this is mostly used for short term affairs like drag racing.
For over 18 months I've thought of painting "Fool" under the 'I Bought A Jeep' sign at the Aspley dealership. I noticed a couple of days ago though that it has shut down. Even the sign is gone. Good thing too.
Quick Tech subject suggestion: Bolt on EFI systems, ie: FiTech, HolleyEFI, FastEFI, and Msd AtomicEFI. A simple do's and Don'ts and bang for your buck for those like myself that still have Carburettored engines. TIA Boys. Keep up the good work.
Great video i really like your quick tech its great to get some insight from someone with so much experience. I think a good video would be showing a list of parts you commenly adapt and repurpose in your conversions such as the bmw thermo fan switch in your other epoisode its very interesting to see what can be reused form other cars rather than buying aftermarket. Either way keep up the good work this is some of the best automotive content on youtube !
I remember Al showing us some settings on the Haltech software, but a Quick Tech video on setting up a brand new Haltech would be great. I'd like to use a Haltech in a build I'm planning, but coming from the world of carburetors and push rods, it would be nice to see a run through of what's necessary to get your car running to get it on a trailer and over to the tuner. Cheers
Hey James, there a quite a few vids on YT explaining the different methods OEMs use in Variable valve timing... But me thinks...Having our beloved Al explaining it would be much better ;) lol..
Thanks, Al, I’d been struggling with efficiency of my chargecooler, for some reason I’d not made the connection of the importance of making sure *all* the airflow goes through the heat exchanger, despite having the engine fans on permanently. I sense that I’ll be making a shroud in my near future!
Thank you for one more educational video! I do not know if it was already suggested, but can we expect a quick tech on the different ways to feed fuel to the engine (i.e. carburetors, mechanical injection, electronic injection, mpi and direct injection)? All the best, cheers!
Theres is always some little info nugget i take away from you guys. I never considered engine oil/engine coolant heat exchange, was to do with a more even expansion rate! The more you know, cheers boys👍🍺
8:18 the turbo is also a heat echanger, if unintended: the turbine gets red hot from the exhaust gases and this will transfer into the compressor side. this is a bigger factor for the heat than the compression (18 psi isn't even a proper tyre presure(unless offroading), this heat from compression will only become an issue with workshop compressors that go up to 160 PSI.)
G'day Alan well explained, often a hard subject to explain in simple format, so as to not talk above comprehension, of those just starting out on the road to discovery beyond the ignition key and seatbelt, configuration.😉🙂👍👍
With my 2003 S55 AMG supercharged, I believe I'm feeling the affects of heatsoak with the Texas summer starting up. I was thinking of upgrading the heat exchanger for the supercharger, but since its in the engine coolant circuit no matter how efficient of a cooler I have it will still be at engine temp. So I was wondering if it's even worth it. Likely I have to upgrade the engine cooling as well
Loving these videos guys! Love seeing Mr yodas presenting skills come along way from the old mx5 turbo days. Would love to see gearbox episode, explaining the difference between dsg boxes, multi clutch boxes etc. Peace ✌️
Is like to see the advantages or disadvantages of using turbo blankets and also heat wrap on exhaust components if it's worth it or not. Also diff ratios explained in more detail.
Speak more bout intercooler dimentions please mate. OEM intercooler limitations, when to upgrade, and what to take into concideration when upgrading.. Thanks for the vid. Love the channel. 👍
Love how you put things into an easy way for dumb asses like me to understand with out being condescending. Love the channel love the videos. I've been forwarding the links to your merch to my wife to get me but the hint isn't being taken. I guess if you want something done right you should DIY
Easy... depends on the car/engine... but Blow off valves are usually installed to minimize stalling (slowing down) of the compressor/turbine wheels when you let off the throttle... making lag an issue going into the next gear... it bleeds off the volume of air to either atmosphere or recirculate to keep the turbo spinning "freely" instead of hitting a "wall of air".. and slowing down far to much so when you engage the next gear and apply throttle... the spool up time is much less than without a BOV fitted. Of course it certainly depends on if you have an OEM setup of a Massive turbo for Max POWAAARRRR!!! cue the S13.....Hope that helps
You could elaborate on the water to air coolers a bit. They have some advantages. More heat capacity (more BTUs absorbed from the charge air, before "soaking" the cooling components and allowing charge air temps to increase). Also, the coolant can be cooled below ambient temperatures using water ice added to the reservoir, or by utilizing the air conditioning system to refrigerate the coolant.
I'm no expert but why would you need to worry about below ambient temperatures for engines that get to 300c to 500c or so in temp? Unless you live on a planet close to the sun or a volcano I doubt your ambient temps will really matter much. Cooling an engine is more about quickly getting the heat away. A larger radiator or a better arrangement of fans will usually fix air flow etc. I'd love know more. I usually only cool PCs and understand that cars etc are quite different in their needs. The temps are much higher with cars and the amount of liquid you use in the car radiator is also much larger than a PC.
@@skilletpan5674 Engines typically run 80c to 110c, not 300 to 500! It may not seem like much, dropping intake air temps an additional 10-15C, but that does make a significant difference in power output. Not only from the denser air charge, but the ability to run higher boost pressures and more aggressive ignition timing before encountering ignition knock. Knock is a dangerous condition, I'd do some googling if you aren't familiar with it.
Good vid👍🏻 REALLY good vid. After watching this vid folks, try find other similar video that not just describes various, important factors involved but addresses and explains the specific technical aspects of this so you can equip yourself, or begin to, on how to achieve the best system possible for your vehicle, and bank account circumstances and limitations. Good luck with that, if you find one let me know please. This is one of the least understood, and most important, aspects of boosted, small capacity performance engines/cars, along with cold side piping.... This has HUGE effects and implications, maybe not for peak power at WOT on the dyno or drag strip, but on spool time and response. Up there with plenum runner spec and turbine waste gate voodoo magic. So try give eBay a miss for this stuff if you can afford to. The amount of ‘professional’ mechanics that have dismissively countered me on this with “nah; it makes little difference” or “na, wasting your money, you would barely be able to notice the difference” I dont take any workshop seriously that holds this belief.
For a good cooler design have a look at the CAT 992 oil cooler 😊 they definitely had there heads screwed on designing it, would be good to see it miniaturised in one of your projects
Depends - there's just FAR too many variables to even really compare them. There's no way to standardize a volume of water-methanol to a given intercooler size, especially when you get into dynamic flow systems that adjust the amount of water-meth per the amount of air or percentage of throttle. It's like saying "superchargers vs nitrous" - although the end result is essentially the same, the two methods just aren't directly comparable because they function completely and utterly differently. However, in both cases, both options absolutely work, which is why all of these are still relevant today.
You can't do water injection with tap water cause there's too many minerals (like calcium, limestone etc) that would be solidifying in the engine. So you have to buy distilled water, which is expensive and annoying. I'd say it's better to just use a tap water tank to spray on the intercooler so that a smaller one (like a top mount) works more efficiently like a front mount would.
Hey Guys another great explanation from the Al meister as always. Keep up the great work. If you get a chance to do a bit of a tech tip about compression ratios for both n.a and turbo applications that would be great. I'm looking to either build an n.a stroker to go in my E34 525i or turbo or maybe even both?? Either way the compression ratio will need to be changed to suit and I just can't figure it all out....theres a lemon squash in it for you if you can help! 😋
Great video Al. I love your channel you're making good stuff. I would like a video about transmission. Not about how transmission work. Rather about what transmission you use and why you commonly use old automatic transmission instead of new ones like zf 8hp or a Mercedes 728.9 for example. I'm sure there's a good reason why and I would appreciate if you can explain. Thanks
Yeh, I would like to know which supercharger could I use on a straight six. Could I make up a manifold, and use an L67, or maybe more about setting up a supercharger, how many different ways can you do it?
Hes put some out but i would like a better guide to wire specs/brands, creating connectors, what kinds to use, and how to run wires thru door jams and stuff.
The water to air with the water recirculated through an ice slurry (icebox) look like good way to reduce inlet temps, more for drag racing. I heard some talk on dry ice and Co2 fogger systems for reducing the temps, would be great if you could provide some info on these set ups.
Great stuff. I went with a 'chargecooler' on my defender because i dont see the point in spending 700€ on an intercooler thats probably not doing much at the low speeds that are common during offroading. So far i have learned about heatsoak because the radiator i used to cool the chargecooler was too small. Question, can the radiator for a chargecooler be too big or is the concept the cooler the charge air the better? Can u damage the engine in any way (danger to inlet manifold or blowing the welds on the intake) from thermal shock by cooling the charge air too much? Thanks guys!!!
Hi Al, years ago you said the intercooler on Moog's Saab was big. How do you choose the correct size and what bad effects do you get with going to big?
The young fella at Vague Industries uses a water to air heat exchanger for his twin turbo 5.3 Hilux, but in his reservoir he has an A/C evaporator which is still plumbed into the A/C, he says it brings the water temp down so far that he has to use antifreeze in it. Its a clever way of getting it consistently super cold, but the complexity of it is huge, and trying to keep the little scroll compressor reliable wouldn't be easy I'm sure
I always had trouble with those bell cores leaking in the middle of the core and unless they were supplied as a complete unit with their tanks... No bloody warranty. The efficiency of them was also well below that of a smaller garrett core. On the old school td42/1hz style diesel engines, the garrett core would produce about 1-2afr leaner on the same fuel quantity.
Hi there, I'd like to see how to neaten an engine bay. Not go mad like summernats but just what to remove and clean, how to stop things getting covered in oil... (old Holden motors) thanks.
Hey Al i want to ask you for some mechanical advise! I am going to tune my car Seat Leon mk1 but it has a 1.4L engine. So my request is can you give me some details what has to be changed on the engine for it to be able to work properly with a turbo and what is okay? Camshaft and pistons are a mandatory thing but i cannot tell all of the parts. Thanks in advance! Love the show keep it going !
Al, you say the water to air ‘isn’t better’, but you well know the coyoda kits keep the boost air temps down way better than an air to air cooler on the same FA20 blocks at the same 40degree Ipswich afternoons at QR sprints! Sell your product man! 😋 If viewers have an 86, these are premium, well engineered, stock looking low mount kits for boost and as about the third one fitted I can attest on only 6 to 7psi (wastegate pressure) I’ve got 170kW at the wheels and have run this thing for 3 or 4 years on absolutely stock internals including the clutch. (Clutch is now getting a bit iffy finally; bear in mind I was careful not to do many clutch dumps). Power delivery is smooth and beautiful. Daily driven and tracked. Only problems I ever had were popping vacuum lines a couple of times and the mk1 oil scavenge pump giving out (replaced with a much more robust mk2 unit). Best 86 boost kit on the market hands down.
![Forced Induction Differences - THE SKID FACTORY - [ Quick Tech]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/46743QshgI4/mqdefault.jpg)
![Forced Induction Differences - THE SKID FACTORY - [ Quick Tech]](/img/tr.png)
Difficult subject, handled well.
Thanks Al.
+
Excellent comment Ray. Exactly what I was thinking.
Not a difficult subject. Generally.
Difficult would be explaining why brand a vs b vs c are better/worse of the same A2A etc
Fantastic explanations but what we really want to know is can you play it as well as moog
Hahaha. I was hoping the sound would play when Al strummed the fins
ashley richards , takes years of practice.
I think Moog and Marty have already confessed to not being mechanics (especially Moog), but they both have their good sides. Eh?
@@notnowliberty Huh...that wasn't clear before the confession?
Al's would be ac/dc guitar riffs.
These videos are so helpful, maybe one about spark plugs and how to choose the right one after you've modified a car?
Some people do seem to get confused with the terms of the gap and Cool/Hot plugs.
@@wobblysauce yeah exactly! People like me
Its easy to get confused when some wheb plug manufacturers use scales going the opposite way to reference their heat ranges.
@@MRMOPARMAN0426 There all the same but the slight differences trip up.
How about a video on turbo and exhaust Sizing relationship
Or even a demo of your mig/tig skills
If you ever wanted a change from spinning spanners everyday you would make an awesome trade school lecturer. The apprentices would be lucky to have someone with such a wide range of knowledge and real life experience.
Hate to say it brother... but Those that can... Do... those that can't... Teach... Some of the worst techs have become instructors in my experience... and they pass on their talents to others... yikes....
He's already quit spinning spanners to only work on cool cars that are exciting and different, and to make videos while doing it.
Good explanation. A bonus would have been talks about an ice tank in the air to water intercooler setup to get temps below ambient. Keep up the great work!
Al, super impressed by your statement that the AC evaporator absorbs heat (rather than cooling the air, which is probably what most people would say). Very science-y of you!
Great. My only slight adjustment is the idea of thermal boundary layers. "things make heat, they heat air on surface, air blows over and rips that heated layer off" Sweet goodness, TSF is one of a kind on YT
@The Skid Factory did a good job demonstrating at 8:29 why this one has been sacrificed, it has lost almost all of its sound and tune, so will not align the molecules in the right direction for maximum cooling efficiency, meaning less boost and less power!
Always ensure that your coolers are tuned correctly to your vehicle.
Topic i'd love to see covered. Wrapping/coating exhaust parts, worth it?
No. They crack due to the extreme heat cycling with no way to expand at the flange mount. Not worth it for the less than 1% gain at the very most.
totally worth it, check out " Engine Masters" episode on ceramic coating some hooker headers, its in their dyno room, great comparison, factual and very convincing.......keeps heat outa the engine compartment, and improves thermal dynamics...ie: hot air rushes more quickly towards the exit, your exhaust......flow, baby, flow
@@stevenjohann5435 Not just faster to the exit, but to spool your hairdryer..
Also helps when you have a turbo exhaust housing right beside your brake master cylinder like me lol. coated/wrap/turbo beanie/heat shield 😂
Hi Al! A great topic for a Quick Tech would be the evolution of ignition systems from breaker point distributors through CDI igniter systems with magnetic triggers and on to proper engine computers. A lot of shadetree mechanics hate engine computers because they don't understand them & their benefits, such as elimination of distributors and mechanical fuel injection as well as the flexibility gained in fine adjustments with air/fuel mixture, timing adjustments, etc.
Quick tech subject:
Engine sensors and what they do with the focus on what ones are good, common, cheap that can be adapted into your modified car for ECU’s Etc
Cheers guys 👍
Haltech youtube channel did this topic a few weeks ago.
Good video
One thing I’ve tried to explain to turbo diesel owners is the difference between intercoolers for petrol turbos and turbo diesels. Petrol turbos (street cars) tend to use bar and plate intercoolers because they are designed to act as a heat sink, due to fact that the turbo is usually on for short periods of time and the absorbed heat can dissipate between periods of boost.
Turbo diesels are on boost all the time and the intercooler has to dissipate the heat constantly, so the tube and fin design is the most efficient for turbo diesels (whether top or front mounted) and can be a lot smaller and lighter than a bar and plate intercooler. Many aftermarket dealers promote their bar and plate intercoolers as being better than a tube and fin, but they neglect to note that what they sell are substantially larger units by volume than the tube and fin intercooler they replace.
If you had a tube and fin intercooler of the same volume, it would be far more efficient. However, tube and fin intercoolers can’t be made as simply as bar and plate, which come from China in great slabs that are just cut to size; so it’s much easier to produce a bar and plate intercooler than a tube and fin one. I’d be interested to hear your thoughts on this.
My ex was a great heat exchanger, lots of hot air, yet still cold as ice...unfortunately, she really protested being shoved under the hood.
That misogyny sure helps you on your way...
Don’t mind not now liberty, I had one of those two.
@@notnowliberty LOL its a joke. man you must be a real hit at the parties...
@@notnowliberty
You douchebags are everywhere now.
Killer break down, this series is a really great addition to the channel! I think that most people believe that there's a WHOLE lot of black magik going on in the various cooling systems of their cars; but, the reality is that, as essentially laid out here, they're ALL just *radiatiators*, every single one of them! Whether liquid-to-air or liquid-to-liquid(remember elementary science class; both liquids and gasses are FLUIDS!), they're still just metal matrixs that allow two separate fluids to exchange heat between one another via a single metallic wall acting as the thermal transfer medium.
Once you realize this, all of the voodoo magik goes away and things become much more simple to understand and diagnose.
The only addendum that I would add is that, first, heat soak is a very relevant factor in any cooling system(and an explanation of what exactly 'heat soak' means) and, second, in a related minor correction, liquid-to-air intercooling DOES offer the potential of marginally greater cooling performance(lower charge air temps), particularly in an 'endurance' application.
While an air-to-air intercooler will heat soak and normalize(while it starts out at ambient temperature, once operated long enough, the temp of the intercooler itself will average out somewhere between the higher temp of the incoming charge air and the lower temp of the outside ambient air, somewhat limiting its cooling/heat transfer ability), this heat soak isn't near as dramatic on a liquid-to-air intercooler because the whole system contains SIGNIFICANTLY greater thermal capacity thanks to the great density of water/coolant. Because you have a pretty large volume of coolant in the reservoir at ambient temperature, only the fraction of that coolant that passing through the intercooler(radiator) at any given time is being heated up by the incoming hot charge air charge, and that coolant then goes through another liquid-to-air heat exchanger(radiator) to offload most of that heat into the outside atmosphere, the entire liquid-to-air intercooling system takes a VERY long time to heat soak in comparison, and when it does finally heat soak(as long as there isn't a cooling bottleneck in the system mind you - it only cools as effectively as its lowest performing component) it normalizes at a much[relatively speaking] lower temperature than the air-to-air system does.
This is why the vast majority of modern factory forced induction vehicles use the certainly much more complex liquid-to-air intercooling system while really only budget cars and giant diesel workhorses(and the odd anomaly of course) use air-to-air intercooling from the factory anymore.
Don't get me wrong though, I don't mean to rant about this or anything at all, these videos are just a bit of a 'thorough summary' I would probably call it after all; and, explaining why someone/race teams/the factory would choose to use the quite complex, quite expensive liquid-to-air intercooling over air-to-air is certainly enough to confuse people just learning about automotive cooling systems.
With that said, part of the reason that I leave these giant comments is in the hopes that someone who may have questions about "why liquid over air" and what not may come across it and learn a little something that they may not have known before - and, for that matter, if anyone has questions about liquid-to-air intercooling, feel free to ask because I do have experience with & knowledge about them(see some of my old uploads for an example of where I've worked if you have a credibility question or anything), I do LOVE to talk about this shit after all!
I sympathise Al. trying to put all your intuitive knowledge into words, while infront of a camera. never the less, you did a wicked job. cheers for the skid factory! you guys are great
I too would like to see a subject on brakes, to show to most people out there that quad pots aren't necessarily better than a bigger rotor with twins etc.
Cheers for another well explained video 👍
Extra tip: The more coolers you stack in front of each other, the less efficient they are. International learned this with the Maxxforce13 engine and a rad pack that was about 600mm thick. from front to back it went: -> A/C condenser -> Low temp rad (for the EGR & air to water intercooler) -> Primary air to air intercooler -> radiator/trans cooler -> Secondary air to air intercooler. The small gaps between them all would suck in all sorts of shmutz and it takes a good hour with a pressure washer to get it cleaned out.
Al you should look into being a trade school teacher. So much knowledge you have and explained much better then the teachers I had when I was at trade school
Learnt more here in 17 minutes than i did the 24 years i spent holding the torch for me old man.
I would love a custom Air Con install video. Making lines (perhaps using AN?) mounting condensers etc.
arguably the perfect video.... throughly go through the basics of heat exchangers, the different types and why they are used. what more could you ask for?
It's worth mentioning water/air charge cooling can allow you to get intake temps below ambient air temperature by using ice in the systems header tank, this is mostly used for short term affairs like drag racing.
Def worth mentioning though you could do the same with air to air and a co2 or nitrous spray bar
For over 18 months I've thought of painting "Fool" under the 'I Bought A Jeep' sign at the Aspley dealership. I noticed a couple of days ago though that it has shut down. Even the sign is gone. Good thing too.
I always appreciate it when Turbo Yoda speaks the wisdom. Keep up the good work. Thanks
Awesome Al, your a better teacher than you probably realise. Really enjoyed this one.
Quick Tech subject suggestion:
Bolt on EFI systems, ie: FiTech, HolleyEFI, FastEFI, and Msd AtomicEFI. A simple do's and Don'ts and bang for your buck for those like myself that still have Carburettored engines. TIA Boys. Keep up the good work.
You explained this far better than I could. I'll be sure to share this with anybody who asks me.
Great video i really like your quick tech its great to get some insight from someone with so much experience. I think a good video would be showing a list of parts you commenly adapt and repurpose in your conversions such as the bmw thermo fan switch in your other epoisode its very interesting to see what can be reused form other cars rather than buying aftermarket. Either way keep up the good work this is some of the best automotive content on youtube !
Al has explained the insanity that is Project Blinky👍
I have just finished watching all of PB, awesome little car, so over engineering; it's great
Binky, that is.
I remember Al showing us some settings on the Haltech software, but a Quick Tech video on setting up a brand new Haltech would be great. I'd like to use a Haltech in a build I'm planning, but coming from the world of carburetors and push rods, it would be nice to see a run through of what's necessary to get your car running to get it on a trailer and over to the tuner. Cheers
Variable timing or 16 valve would be great subjects for a quick tech
Hey James, there a quite a few vids on YT explaining the different methods OEMs use in Variable valve timing... But me thinks...Having our beloved Al explaining it would be much better ;)
lol..
Tech tip on dry sumps would be good.
This answered a lot of questions I’ve had over the years. Thanks Al and Woody, another great video!
Information delivered in a very easy to understand way.
Snowmobiles have heat exchangers above the track under the tunnel. When the snow kicks up it helps keep the engine from overheating.
Nice! I'd never really given much thought to the construction of heat exchangers.
Good stuff, how about having a go at KNOCK SENSORS? Still a bit ‘voodoo’ to me!
That was a lot more interesting than i thought it was going to be.
How about a video on different types of LSD? I'm enjoying these quick techs!
Thanks, Al, I’d been struggling with efficiency of my chargecooler, for some reason I’d not made the connection of the importance of making sure *all* the airflow goes through the heat exchanger, despite having the engine fans on permanently. I sense that I’ll be making a shroud in my near future!
Thanks again Alan for another QUICK TECH, makes my day , keep them coming
Thank you for one more educational video! I do not know if it was already suggested, but can we expect a quick tech on the different ways to feed fuel to the engine (i.e. carburetors, mechanical injection, electronic injection, mpi and direct injection)? All the best, cheers!
Theres is always some little info nugget i take away from you guys. I never considered engine oil/engine coolant heat exchange, was to do with a more even expansion rate!
The more you know, cheers boys👍🍺
8:18 the turbo is also a heat echanger, if unintended: the turbine gets red hot from the exhaust gases and this will transfer into the compressor side. this is a bigger factor for the heat than the compression (18 psi isn't even a proper tyre presure(unless offroading), this heat from compression will only become an issue with workshop compressors that go up to 160 PSI.)
G'day Alan well explained, often a hard subject to explain in simple format, so as to not talk above comprehension, of those just starting out on the road to discovery beyond the ignition key and seatbelt, configuration.😉🙂👍👍
With my 2003 S55 AMG supercharged, I believe I'm feeling the affects of heatsoak with the Texas summer starting up. I was thinking of upgrading the heat exchanger for the supercharger, but since its in the engine coolant circuit no matter how efficient of a cooler I have it will still be at engine temp. So I was wondering if it's even worth it. Likely I have to upgrade the engine cooling as well
Loving these videos guys! Love seeing Mr yodas presenting skills come along way from the old mx5 turbo days.
Would love to see gearbox episode, explaining the difference between dsg boxes, multi clutch boxes etc.
Peace ✌️
Is like to see the advantages or disadvantages of using turbo blankets and also heat wrap on exhaust components if it's worth it or not. Also diff ratios explained in more detail.
Turbo Yoda !!! How about a topic on selecting the correct Turbo for your application 😜👍🇦🇺
Gemini355 "Bigger is better." - Turbo Yoda.
Cameron Russell yeah mate !!! Big is good but biggest can sometimes mean the engine falls on its face hehe haha lol 😜👍🇦🇺
Not one mention of thermodynamics. Cool to see the inside of the various types.
Thanks Al, really enjoying your Channel. Hope you and Woody keep at it.
Speak more bout intercooler dimentions please mate. OEM intercooler limitations, when to upgrade, and what to take into concideration when upgrading..
Thanks for the vid. Love the channel. 👍
I have a Silvia eBay edition. Any chance of a quick session on compressor mapping. Love your work.
More quick tech please, if you could do one on choosing a water/air intercooler pump I would appreciate it.
Love how you put things into an easy way for dumb asses like me to understand with out being condescending.
Love the channel love the videos. I've been forwarding the links to your merch to my wife to get me but the hint isn't being taken.
I guess if you want something done right you should DIY
Nice one! Still love my beetle though!!
What about having a blow off valve VS not having a blow off valve?
Easy... depends on the car/engine... but Blow off valves are usually installed to minimize stalling (slowing down) of the compressor/turbine wheels when you let off the throttle... making lag an issue going into the next gear... it bleeds off the volume of air to either atmosphere or recirculate to keep the turbo spinning "freely" instead of hitting a "wall of air".. and slowing down far to much so when you engage the next gear and apply throttle... the spool up time is much less than without a BOV fitted. Of course it certainly depends on if you have an OEM setup of a Massive turbo for Max POWAAARRRR!!! cue the S13.....Hope that helps
I was expecting moog to waltz in and pluck one like a harp.
You could elaborate on the water to air coolers a bit. They have some advantages. More heat capacity (more BTUs absorbed from the charge air, before "soaking" the cooling components and allowing charge air temps to increase).
Also, the coolant can be cooled below ambient temperatures using water ice added to the reservoir, or by utilizing the air conditioning system to refrigerate the coolant.
I'm no expert but why would you need to worry about below ambient temperatures for engines that get to 300c to 500c or so in temp? Unless you live on a planet close to the sun or a volcano I doubt your ambient temps will really matter much. Cooling an engine is more about quickly getting the heat away. A larger radiator or a better arrangement of fans will usually fix air flow etc.
I'd love know more. I usually only cool PCs and understand that cars etc are quite different in their needs. The temps are much higher with cars and the amount of liquid you use in the car radiator is also much larger than a PC.
@@skilletpan5674 Engines typically run 80c to 110c, not 300 to 500!
It may not seem like much, dropping intake air temps an additional 10-15C, but that does make a significant difference in power output. Not only from the denser air charge, but the ability to run higher boost pressures and more aggressive ignition timing before encountering ignition knock. Knock is a dangerous condition, I'd do some googling if you aren't familiar with it.
Lovely stuff 👍
Quick tech suggestion:
The break system. What the break booster does and so on. 👍
Sick video, love these segments
Hi Guys, I'm enjoying these tech tips. Can you do one about turbo setups? top mount, bottom mount, remote mount etc....
Good vid👍🏻
REALLY good vid.
After watching this vid folks, try find other similar video that not just describes various, important factors involved but addresses and explains the specific technical aspects of this so you can equip yourself, or begin to, on how to achieve the best system possible for your vehicle, and bank account circumstances and limitations.
Good luck with that, if you find one let me know please.
This is one of the least understood, and most important, aspects of boosted, small capacity performance engines/cars, along with cold side piping....
This has HUGE effects and implications, maybe not for peak power at WOT on the dyno or drag strip, but on spool time and response. Up there with plenum runner spec and turbine waste gate voodoo magic.
So try give eBay a miss for this stuff if you can afford to.
The amount of ‘professional’ mechanics that have dismissively countered me on this with “nah; it makes little difference” or “na, wasting your money, you would barely be able to notice the difference”
I dont take any workshop seriously that holds this belief.
Man.... Combustion etngine and cooling liquid parts... WOW... Great learning... Thanks...
I like that the mrs takes off at mach 10 with no warmup. I've seen it!!
I would like a deeper look into the different types of piston rings (& perhaps pistons) used in car engines.
Great video , would love to hear your opinion on water injection and water spray set ups for inter coolers on street cars .
Awesome video as usual. I was hoping to see something about Laminova cores or heat exchangers.
For a good cooler design have a look at the CAT 992 oil cooler 😊 they definitely had there heads screwed on designing it, would be good to see it miniaturised in one of your projects
Nice mate I am sorting out that stuff now. I'm putting a lsa in my gq patrol Ute. 👌💪
It’s gonna be mad
Intercooler VS Meth injection. Particularly on turbo diesel
Depends - there's just FAR too many variables to even really compare them. There's no way to standardize a volume of water-methanol to a given intercooler size, especially when you get into dynamic flow systems that adjust the amount of water-meth per the amount of air or percentage of throttle.
It's like saying "superchargers vs nitrous" - although the end result is essentially the same, the two methods just aren't directly comparable because they function completely and utterly differently.
However, in both cases, both options absolutely work, which is why all of these are still relevant today.
You can't do water injection with tap water cause there's too many minerals (like calcium, limestone etc) that would be solidifying in the engine. So you have to buy distilled water, which is expensive and annoying. I'd say it's better to just use a tap water tank to spray on the intercooler so that a smaller one (like a top mount) works more efficiently like a front mount would.
The quick tech episodes are brilliant 👌. Learning so much. Thanks fellas!
Hey Guys another great explanation from the Al meister as always. Keep up the great work. If you get a chance to do a bit of a tech tip about compression ratios for both n.a and turbo applications that would be great. I'm looking to either build an n.a stroker to go in my E34 525i or turbo or maybe even both?? Either way the compression ratio will need to be changed to suit and I just can't figure it all out....theres a lemon squash in it for you if you can help! 😋
You should do a video on different engine designs and rotating assemblys. Inline, v8/v6, boxer etc...
Which is better in engine timing design. Timing Belt, Timing Chain, Timing Gear, camless pnumatic tapet valves, or camless electromagnetic tapet valves?
or rotary valve engine? or wankel rotory (valveless)?
Great video . I understood most of it all ready but many people have now gained. Keep it up. You could try explain how an automatic works. 🤔
Great video Al.
I love your channel you're making good stuff. I would like a video about transmission. Not about how transmission work. Rather about what transmission you use and why you commonly use old automatic transmission instead of new ones like zf 8hp or a Mercedes 728.9 for example. I'm sure there's a good reason why and I would appreciate if you can explain. Thanks
Love all the S13 references ( I just brought one).How after market ECU's differ in the way they work from OEM ECU's in next Quick Tech?
Awesome work lad keep it up
Al is the best! Thank you so much! Also Woody! Muchos kudos to you too!
Love the show guys!! Can you please do a "how to rebuild a turbo" video :) and can you repair cracked p-18 rear housings off subarus hahah
Fuel injector types and sizes for different applications would be a good subject
Any tips on how to get the missus to jump into bed and up to mach 10 straight away would be great next video please Alan!
Good explanation. Which intercooler system gives the highest ∆ in temperature?
Yeh, I would like to know which supercharger could I use on a straight six. Could I make up a manifold, and use an L67, or maybe more about setting up a supercharger, how many different ways can you do it?
Maybe not a quick tech subject, but would love to see some videos on wiring cars to Al's standards.
Hes put some out but i would like a better guide to wire specs/brands, creating connectors, what kinds to use, and how to run wires thru door jams and stuff.
The water to air with the water recirculated through an ice slurry (icebox) look like good way to reduce inlet temps, more for drag racing. I heard some talk on dry ice and Co2 fogger systems for reducing the temps, would be great if you could provide some info on these set ups.
Great stuff. I went with a 'chargecooler' on my defender because i dont see the point in spending 700€ on an intercooler thats probably not doing much at the low speeds that are common during offroading. So far i have learned about heatsoak because the radiator i used to cool the chargecooler was too small.
Question, can the radiator for a chargecooler be too big or is the concept the cooler the charge air the better? Can u damage the engine in any way (danger to inlet manifold or blowing the welds on the intake) from thermal shock by cooling the charge air too much?
Thanks guys!!!
Is it possible to use a air con set up to pull heat from an inter cooler instead of water (ie coolant)?
Hi Al, years ago you said the intercooler on Moog's Saab was big. How do you choose the correct size and what bad effects do you get with going to big?
The young fella at Vague Industries uses a water to air heat exchanger for his twin turbo 5.3 Hilux, but in his reservoir he has an A/C evaporator which is still plumbed into the A/C, he says it brings the water temp down so far that he has to use antifreeze in it. Its a clever way of getting it consistently super cold, but the complexity of it is huge, and trying to keep the little scroll compressor reliable wouldn't be easy I'm sure
Quick tech about cam profiles. What are turbo cams and NA cams, can you turbo NA cams?
Do tube and fin style oil coolers still work pretty well without a thermo fan ( using it to keep my engine oil temps under control.
Thank legends
I always had trouble with those bell cores leaking in the middle of the core and unless they were supplied as a complete unit with their tanks... No bloody warranty.
The efficiency of them was also well below that of a smaller garrett core.
On the old school td42/1hz style diesel engines, the garrett core would produce about 1-2afr leaner on the same fuel quantity.
Very well done guys
love your work guys. theoretically, can you modify the existing a\c core to fit inside the indirect cooling unit? does it have enough cooling power?
Hi there, I'd like to see how to neaten an engine bay. Not go mad like summernats but just what to remove and clean, how to stop things getting covered in oil... (old Holden motors) thanks.
Hey Al i want to ask you for some mechanical advise!
I am going to tune my car Seat Leon mk1 but it has a 1.4L engine. So my request is can you give me some details what has to be changed on the engine for it to be able to work properly with a turbo and what is okay? Camshaft and pistons are a mandatory thing but i cannot tell all of the parts. Thanks in advance! Love the show keep it going !
Would like to know an opinion or quick tech on diff pinion angles, how important they are for traction etc
Al, you say the water to air ‘isn’t better’, but you well know the coyoda kits keep the boost air temps down way better than an air to air cooler on the same FA20 blocks at the same 40degree Ipswich afternoons at QR sprints! Sell your product man! 😋
If viewers have an 86, these are premium, well engineered, stock looking low mount kits for boost and as about the third one fitted I can attest on only 6 to 7psi (wastegate pressure) I’ve got 170kW at the wheels and have run this thing for 3 or 4 years on absolutely stock internals including the clutch. (Clutch is now getting a bit iffy finally; bear in mind I was careful not to do many clutch dumps). Power delivery is smooth and beautiful. Daily driven and tracked. Only problems I ever had were popping vacuum lines a couple of times and the mk1 oil scavenge pump giving out (replaced with a much more robust mk2 unit). Best 86 boost kit on the market hands down.