Just a little tip, with the magnetron biner, you’re supposed to put your belay device in the small part not your belay loop, for cross loading purposes. That’s how BD recommends it
Great descriptions of the types. I use the three action lock when I cut trees. I feel safer knowing it’s locked. I still have my old screw lock as backup because I also never those any carabiners away. The magnetic lock black diamond, how does that hold up to fine dirt getting into the lock? That doesn’t effect me as much cutting trees as you when your out on a wall 100’s feet off the ground
Great question about dirt getting into this. Though I have gotten dirt in other carabiners (especially carabiners used for anchors), I've only used this one directly into my harness so I haven't gotten it really dirty and don't have personal experience with the magnent and dirt.
My take on 2-stage vs 3-stage autolockers is that if the rope is running through the carabiner directly like when using an ATC to belay or rappel, I prefer a 3-stage locker, but if it's just holding another piece of gear like a GriGri or microtraxion then 2-stage is fine. Examples: Petzl Sm'D twist-lock (2-stage, red gate) is my go-to for using a GriGri but I use an Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Triple-action FG with the belay loop wire thing for using any ATC-style device.
I once was rappelling on a figure of eight attached to a double action biner. Got my prussik caught up in the figure of eight. After struggling and failing to free myself for about five minutes I noticed the biner had opened, not just unlocked but fully opened. After being that close to plummeting 30 meters down I’ve only used that double action as a chalk bag holder.
I think that happend because the double action carabiner will open if the rope will rub on the gate in a rotational movement. Maybe in this case if wasn't the rope but the figure 8 device which lead to opening of the gate.
For the Grigri, I usually put the grigri loop on the smaller part of my carabiner, not like you, to prevent damaging by scratching were a possible rope would go.
Neither the triple action auto lockers, nor screw lock take 2 hands to open. They can easily be done with one. The triple action you just need your thumb on the gate, your index finger on the top of the biner with the rest on the spine. Simply slide your thumb up the lock, out to twist it, and then it should open easily. As far as brands, I'm really fond of DMM's biners. Everything about then feels just the slightest but nicer. Edelrid, petzl and Mammut are all extremely nice too. BD I don't buy for political reasons, but they're perfectly fine too.
I’m new to this. The first climbing carabiners I bought were Lazzo and bought the auto lock completely unaware. I like those but will be buying Black Diamond in the future. My question is, I saw someone on TH-cam say that auto locking isn’t as safe. I can kinda see that. What is your opinion? Thanks
In the tower industry, autolock is a requirement. I've seen them used for speakers or other lightweight accessories, but for fall protection systems or lightweight rigging, everything is autolock. Sadly, we're not supposed to use any carabiners that are rated in kilonewtons for rigging. Carabiners rated in lbs are newly impossible to find.
That is interesting to know about Kilonewtons vs lbs in the tower industry, thanks for sharing. Kilonewtons are a standard rating for climbing carabiners so I can understand that being difficult to find. Not to mention that lbs doesn't measure the same as Kilonewtons, which also regards force, an important factor for fall protection. Maybe they've figured something out though
Some good info on carabineers. DMM do a good range too including the Ceros which is great for use with a Grigri and a anti-sideloading shape. Edelrid also have some good lockers. Maybe theses brands are not so well known state side ☺️🤘
Just a little tip, with the magnetron biner, you’re supposed to put your belay device in the small part not your belay loop, for cross loading purposes. That’s how BD recommends it
Great descriptions of the types. I use the three action lock when I cut trees. I feel safer knowing it’s locked. I still have my old screw lock as backup because I also never those any carabiners away. The magnetic lock black diamond, how does that hold up to fine dirt getting into the lock? That doesn’t effect me as much cutting trees as you when your out on a wall 100’s feet off the ground
Great question about dirt getting into this. Though I have gotten dirt in other carabiners (especially carabiners used for anchors), I've only used this one directly into my harness so I haven't gotten it really dirty and don't have personal experience with the magnent and dirt.
My take on 2-stage vs 3-stage autolockers is that if the rope is running through the carabiner directly like when using an ATC to belay or rappel, I prefer a 3-stage locker, but if it's just holding another piece of gear like a GriGri or microtraxion then 2-stage is fine. Examples: Petzl Sm'D twist-lock (2-stage, red gate) is my go-to for using a GriGri but I use an Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Triple-action FG with the belay loop wire thing for using any ATC-style device.
Thanks for sharing your take - I think those are great points :)
Very informative. Thanks!
I once was rappelling on a figure of eight attached to a double action biner. Got my prussik caught up in the figure of eight. After struggling and failing to free myself for about five minutes I noticed the biner had opened, not just unlocked but fully opened. After being that close to plummeting 30 meters down I’ve only used that double action as a chalk bag holder.
I think that happend because the double action carabiner will open if the rope will rub on the gate in a rotational movement. Maybe in this case if wasn't the rope but the figure 8 device which lead to opening of the gate.
For the Grigri, I usually put the grigri loop on the smaller part of my carabiner, not like you, to prevent damaging by scratching were a possible rope would go.
Neither the triple action auto lockers, nor screw lock take 2 hands to open. They can easily be done with one. The triple action you just need your thumb on the gate, your index finger on the top of the biner with the rest on the spine. Simply slide your thumb up the lock, out to twist it, and then it should open easily.
As far as brands, I'm really fond of DMM's biners. Everything about then feels just the slightest but nicer. Edelrid, petzl and Mammut are all extremely nice too. BD I don't buy for political reasons, but they're perfectly fine too.
Thanks so much for sharing your insight and taking the time to comment :)
I’m new to this. The first climbing carabiners I bought were Lazzo and bought the auto lock completely unaware. I like those but will be buying Black Diamond in the future.
My question is, I saw someone on TH-cam say that auto locking isn’t as safe. I can kinda see that. What is your opinion?
Thanks
In the tower industry, autolock is a requirement. I've seen them used for speakers or other lightweight accessories, but for fall protection systems or lightweight rigging, everything is autolock. Sadly, we're not supposed to use any carabiners that are rated in kilonewtons for rigging. Carabiners rated in lbs are newly impossible to find.
That is interesting to know about Kilonewtons vs lbs in the tower industry, thanks for sharing. Kilonewtons are a standard rating for climbing carabiners so I can understand that being difficult to find. Not to mention that lbs doesn't measure the same as Kilonewtons, which also regards force, an important factor for fall protection. Maybe they've figured something out though
You have a relaxing voice...thnaks for the nice review
Thanks for your nice comment!
Some good info on carabineers. DMM do a good range too including the Ceros which is great for use with a Grigri and a anti-sideloading shape. Edelrid also have some good lockers. Maybe theses brands are not so well known state side ☺️🤘
Thanks for the recommendations on brands - I think you can still get that gear in the states if you go online so it's worth checking out.
What's the model of the Camp carabiner?