Journeyman electrician here. I work for a company that specializes in whole-house GENERAC generator installs. I've literally done this install at a customer's home. What I did was I installed a wire way under the two transfer switches. I took the generator cable from the generator to the wire way, and took the splices I made in the wire way up to E1 and E2 terminals of the two transfer switches. For me it's a cleaner install because the 4/0 aluminum or 2/0 copper service conductors take up a lot of space in the transfer switch. So the wire way just helps me keep the transfer switches from being overcrowded with conductors. I as stated by a previous post, I've never read or talked to any GENERAC representative who said those lugs were rated to have two conductors terminated in them. I would much rather use Polaris taps. I do like the GENERAC tray cable that has both the control wires with the power conductors grouped together. I like that it's direct burial, and we can purchase the cable in either aluminum or copper.
@@larryduwa9955 A 400 amp service rated transfer switch from generac cost over $3,000. I can get 2 - 200 amp ATS's for $1600. It's just cheaper to go that route. And I'm sure it would be much easier to get ahold of 200 amp ATS's than 400 amp ones. I've installed 100s of GENERAC whole home generators and have not once seen a 400 amp ATS. I suspect that the space inside a 400 amp ATS would have to be sufficient enough to fit 4-2/0 (rated at 350 amps in parallel) conductors or 2- 500 kcmil conductors (rated at 385 amp) for the service conductors. Just things to think about during installation
@@wfrencher80 William -- I like the idea of using a wire way under the transfer switches and my idea is to mount the transfer switches to the right and left of the 320A Meter Base and running the majority of the wires in the type 2 wire-way (the 3 panels will be mounted side-by-side on the exterior of my garage). I just have one question, with using the (2) 200A Generac Transfer Switches -- would a Generac certified installer/dealer install this type of configuration -- or would this combination not be something they would install and warranty?
@@retiredperson4054 Hey, sorry about the delayed reply, it's the busy season for us, so I don't have a lot of free time. Generac does have requirements for where they want their generator installed, but how you install the generator and transfer switch is based on the NEC code and what your inspector in your area will pass. So installing two transfer switches on the left and right side of the meter with a wireway under the three panels sounds fine. From the meter you'll take one set of service conductors to one transfer switch and another set to the other ATS. You'll run feeders from the generator to your wireway, then splice those feeders in the wireway, and run your spliced feeders from the wireway to both ATS's. That's how I would do it. And this is all code compliant.
as a Generac trained tech, I can say those contactor lugs were not rated for 2 wires originally and if they changed something recently it would state that in the manual or on the lug. Best to install some insulated wire bugs to make the branch for generator load wires. Also, while working on the signal wires, disconnect the molded plug (white connector) at each module to prevent accidental powering of contactor solenoids too early in the game. Those load-shed modules must be used with central AC units, and they can be wired directly in series with the 24 volt AC contactor circuit. (at the air handler or outside unit) The modules have a preset time delay (3 minutes) after a power failure to eliminate multiple hard start attempts under high head pressure. They are marked "unit 1, 2, 3, 4" and each has another delay (spaced apart) so things don't restart all at once while the rest of the house is coming on-line. Best to wire all the AC units on the same module or you will have two AC units starting at the same time. The nice thing about the load-shed system is it's smart enough to watch the gen load (via frequency) and if the load is too great, it will shut down the last load for 5 minutes, then try again. It will do that 3 times then wait 20 minutes for another attempt. The idea is to allow another heavy appliance (water heater or well pump?) to finish a cycle. That load-shed is only rated for pilot duty, so any heavy loads like a pump or water heater must also have a relay system to tie into the module. Generac sells relay kits rated for these things, if necessary. Oh, Generac just upped their game to 26kw on the air-cooled sets. I don't think any of the other major players has an air-cooled that large.
I’ve done several of these. The schematic only shows connecting the white and red low voltage wires to the second switch for transfer. Learned the hard way. The black ground wire must be present to the second switch for automatic transfer. Generac didn’t suggest this through tech support. Great job coach.
Hey code coach, please explain to me how can you back up (2) 200 amp panels with a 100 amp generator? Are you using alot of SMM and load shedding? The nec says the generator has to be capable of carrying the full calculated load applied 702.4(B)(2)a. Thanks for any help in understanding.
Ok so I have a question. This is my meter and panel setup up exactly. They are all outside. The one difference is my meter is a 200 amp service that splits both right and left into two force point of disconnects that are mounted outside each that have 150 amp breaker in it and go down into two panels in my basement. The total service that the meter will allow us 200 and amp however either panel can max pull 150 per side on startup loads if need be. I was under the impression this made me a 300 amp service but my electrician told me no it’s a 200 amp service. I’ve been trying to figure out how to use one ATS since it’s rated for 200 A. My service is only 200 A but my configuration is that split panel set up you have. In that scenario is there a way for me to do the wiring exactly and use those tried and true 600 amp split black things you had mentioned to come out of the transfer switch and then go to the two panels rather than installing two full panels.
Great video! I think that would give me an answer to my problem, l have all the communication wires on both transfer switches, instead to connect only the black,white and blue wire between transfer #1 and transfer #2, l think thats the reason why fuses n1 on both transfer switches are blowing out.
Will both 200 amp transfer switches be the same identical part number? I have 400 service and I need to order the two transfer switches. I’ll be connecting to a 26kw kohler generator. Thx
If the neutrals and grounds come from the first transfer switch, which has neutral and ground bonded, shouldn't the second switch not have that those bonded as two points of neutral and ground bonded causes issues? Shouldn't it ONLY be bonded in the first panel?
Do you have a video showing how you would incorporate a 400 amp disconnect when there is a disconnect combo with (2) 200 amp disconnects? Does this require two separate 200 amp transfer switches?
If a lug is suitable for two conductors is is clearly marked on the lug......one indication is if the lug is oblong it will be rated for two conductors. Normally 200 amp load centers will not be supplied with 2 conductor rated lugs as only one conductor will accommodate 200 amp residential load center panels. Panelboards rated 225 amp 3 phase, and larger are common for two conductor terminal lugs.
Another one,i have two 1.5 ton and two 3.5 ton ac with 4 furnaces, dryer,fridge,stove,light,and more on two 200A panel can put all things on 24kw generator with 2 transfer switch and one generator as your teaching?24kw can hande it all my stuff? Thanks again
Question I know the lugs are probably not rated for a double tap but is it okay if I add a surge protector onto the load side lugs double tap it with the panel load wires on the lug. What’s the correct way to install a surge protector in a generac ATS
In the case of a 320 meter base with parallel lugs (2 200a panels) is there any nec rule against putting one panel through a 200a t switch and leave the other 200a panel fed straight from 320 meter base?
Grate video, I have question.my meterbase is 400A from hydro side and I have two 200A panel can I use 400A transfer switch for both?and I want to buy two 22kw generator one for each panel 400A transfer switch can handle it both generator at the same time? Thanks
Recently GENERAC released a 26kw air cooled generator. I've installed one at a customer's residence recently. You can only go so big with air cooled generators though, so the bigger generators are typically oil-cooled and they're usually built for commercial use. Ive installed 24 kw generators on homes that have 2-200 amp panels, which is essentially a 400 amp service. When the power goes out at your home, typically you want the essential appliances working. These are usually water heaters, washer and dryers, furnace, AC, fridge, lights, and receptacle outlets. Sometimes some of these appliances aren't even electric powered, but are actually gas powered appliances. 22-26kw generators are generally capable of running these appliances, plus the lights and receptacles. I've taken an amperage reading of these homes that have larger services, and generally these homes aren't producing more than 50 amps on average.
Journeyman electrician here. I work for a company that specializes in whole-house GENERAC generator installs. I've literally done this install at a customer's home. What I did was I installed a wire way under the two transfer switches. I took the generator cable from the generator to the wire way, and took the splices I made in the wire way up to E1 and E2 terminals of the two transfer switches. For me it's a cleaner install because the 4/0 aluminum or 2/0 copper service conductors take up a lot of space in the transfer switch. So the wire way just helps me keep the transfer switches from being overcrowded with conductors. I as stated by a previous post, I've never read or talked to any GENERAC representative who said those lugs were rated to have two conductors terminated in them. I would much rather use Polaris taps.
I do like the GENERAC tray cable that has both the control wires with the power conductors grouped together. I like that it's direct burial, and we can purchase the cable in either aluminum or copper.
If it’s a 400 amp transfer switch splice the load wires instead of the incoming to feed both 200 amp panels with one switch
@@larryduwa9955 A 400 amp service rated transfer switch from generac cost over $3,000. I can get 2 - 200 amp ATS's for $1600. It's just cheaper to go that route. And I'm sure it would be much easier to get ahold of 200 amp ATS's than 400 amp ones. I've installed 100s of GENERAC whole home generators and have not once seen a 400 amp ATS. I suspect that the space inside a 400 amp ATS would have to be sufficient enough to fit 4-2/0 (rated at 350 amps in parallel) conductors or 2- 500 kcmil conductors (rated at 385 amp) for the service conductors. Just things to think about during installation
@@wfrencher80 William -- I like the idea of using a wire way under the transfer switches and my idea is to mount the transfer switches to the right and left of the 320A Meter Base and running the majority of the wires in the type 2 wire-way (the 3 panels will be mounted side-by-side on the exterior of my garage). I just have one question, with using the (2) 200A Generac Transfer Switches -- would a Generac certified installer/dealer install this type of configuration -- or would this combination not be something they would install and warranty?
@@retiredperson4054 Hey, sorry about the delayed reply, it's the busy season for us, so I don't have a lot of free time. Generac does have requirements for where they want their generator installed, but how you install the generator and transfer switch is based on the NEC code and what your inspector in your area will pass. So installing two transfer switches on the left and right side of the meter with a wireway under the three panels sounds fine. From the meter you'll take one set of service conductors to one transfer switch and another set to the other ATS. You'll run feeders from the generator to your wireway, then splice those feeders in the wireway, and run your spliced feeders from the wireway to both ATS's. That's how I would do it. And this is all code compliant.
Apprentice 😊well done
as a Generac trained tech, I can say those contactor lugs were not rated for 2 wires originally and if they changed something recently it would state that in the manual or on the lug. Best to install some insulated wire bugs to make the branch for generator load wires. Also, while working on the signal wires, disconnect the molded plug (white connector) at each module to prevent accidental powering of contactor solenoids too early in the game. Those load-shed modules must be used with central AC units, and they can be wired directly in series with the 24 volt AC contactor circuit. (at the air handler or outside unit) The modules have a preset time delay (3 minutes) after a power failure to eliminate multiple hard start attempts under high head pressure. They are marked "unit 1, 2, 3, 4" and each has another delay (spaced apart) so things don't restart all at once while the rest of the house is coming on-line. Best to wire all the AC units on the same module or you will have two AC units starting at the same time. The nice thing about the load-shed system is it's smart enough to watch the gen load (via frequency) and if the load is too great, it will shut down the last load for 5 minutes, then try again. It will do that 3 times then wait 20 minutes for another attempt. The idea is to allow another heavy appliance (water heater or well pump?) to finish a cycle. That load-shed is only rated for pilot duty, so any heavy loads like a pump or water heater must also have a relay system to tie into the module. Generac sells relay kits rated for these things, if necessary. Oh, Generac just upped their game to 26kw on the air-cooled sets. I don't think any of the other major players has an air-cooled that large.
Thank you for sharing!
These are the comments I love to see. Thanks
I’ve done several of these. The schematic only shows connecting the white and red low voltage wires to the second switch for transfer. Learned the hard way. The black ground wire must be present to the second switch for automatic transfer. Generac didn’t suggest this through tech support. Great job coach.
Hey code coach, please explain to me how can you back up (2) 200 amp panels with a 100 amp generator? Are you using alot of SMM and load shedding? The nec says the generator has to be capable of carrying the full calculated load applied 702.4(B)(2)a.
Thanks for any help in understanding.
Great video. Thank you so much. I have been trying to understand this setup for months. This was very clear. You explain things very well.
Lets Go!! Thank you so very much for your feedback!
Ok so I have a question. This is my meter and panel setup up exactly. They are all outside. The one difference is my meter is a 200 amp service that splits both right and left into two force point of disconnects that are mounted outside each that have 150 amp breaker in it and go down into two panels in my basement. The total service that the meter will allow us 200 and amp however either panel can max pull 150 per side on startup loads if need be. I was under the impression this made me a 300 amp service but my electrician told me no it’s a 200 amp service. I’ve been trying to figure out how to use one ATS since it’s rated for 200 A. My service is only 200 A but my configuration is that split panel set up you have. In that scenario is there a way for me to do the wiring exactly and use those tried and true 600 amp split black things you had mentioned to come out of the transfer switch and then go to the two panels rather than installing two full panels.
Hi from Southern California
Thanks coach ✌️👌
Great video! I think that would give me an answer to my problem, l have all the communication wires on both transfer switches, instead to connect only the black,white and blue wire between transfer #1 and transfer #2, l think thats the reason why fuses n1 on both transfer switches are blowing out.
Will both 200 amp transfer switches be the same identical part number? I have 400 service and I need to order the two transfer switches. I’ll be connecting to a 26kw kohler generator. Thx
Best video yet great examples
If the neutrals and grounds come from the first transfer switch, which has neutral and ground bonded, shouldn't the second switch not have that those bonded as two points of neutral and ground bonded causes issues? Shouldn't it ONLY be bonded in the first panel?
What about one panel, one generator and also solar together?
Awesome lesson
Thanks
You bet Eric!
Thank you for this great material and explained very well.
did you ever make that video with the Meter Main Disconnect combo?
Not yet
Thank you, I'll be installing one soon..
Do you have a video showing how you would incorporate a 400 amp disconnect when there is a disconnect combo with (2) 200 amp disconnects? Does this require two separate 200 amp transfer switches?
Thank You Coach It was Really Helpful
What is the maximum distance between Generator to the meter base or transformer Switch ?
If a lug is suitable for two conductors is is clearly marked on the lug......one indication is if the lug is oblong it will be rated for two conductors. Normally 200 amp load centers will not be supplied with 2 conductor rated lugs as only one conductor will accommodate 200 amp residential load center panels. Panelboards rated 225 amp 3 phase, and larger are common for two conductor terminal lugs.
Another one,i have two 1.5 ton and two 3.5 ton ac with 4 furnaces, dryer,fridge,stove,light,and more on two 200A panel can put all things on 24kw generator with 2 transfer switch and one generator as your teaching?24kw can hande it all my stuff?
Thanks again
Do I need separate ground rods for each transfer switch?
Question I know the lugs are probably not rated for a double tap but is it okay if I add a surge protector onto the load side lugs double tap it with the panel load wires on the lug.
What’s the correct way to install a surge protector in a generac ATS
EXCELLENT INFO Thanks Bruh !!!!!!!!!!!
Let's get to it!
In the case of a 320 meter base with parallel lugs (2 200a panels) is there any nec rule against putting one panel through a 200a t switch and leave the other 200a panel fed straight from 320 meter base?
Very good explanation...
Glad you liked it
Grate video, I have question.my meterbase is 400A from hydro side and I have two 200A panel can I use 400A transfer switch for both?and I want to buy two 22kw generator one for each panel 400A transfer switch can handle it both generator at the same time?
Thanks
What size all in one wire for the new lp 26 kw Generac
Just have to go off the amperage
Pretty sure i did this with (1) 400a transfer switch, no?
Also mis-use or changing lugs is not allowed per generac and voids the warranty on the transfer switch
Thank you!
Great work and information.
Thank you, brother. Glad to be of service!
22 kw is the biggest one ive installed. Do they make a larger generator that would be more suitable for a 400 amp service?
Recently GENERAC released a 26kw air cooled generator. I've installed one at a customer's residence recently. You can only go so big with air cooled generators though, so the bigger generators are typically oil-cooled and they're usually built for commercial use. Ive installed 24 kw generators on homes that have 2-200 amp panels, which is essentially a 400 amp service. When the power goes out at your home, typically you want the essential appliances working. These are usually water heaters, washer and dryers, furnace, AC, fridge, lights, and receptacle outlets. Sometimes some of these appliances aren't even electric powered, but are actually gas powered appliances. 22-26kw generators are generally capable of running these appliances, plus the lights and receptacles. I've taken an amperage reading of these homes that have larger services, and generally these homes aren't producing more than 50 amps on average.
Thanks
Why bond if house is already grounded it is ok with just house ground before what changed so much I couldn't just ground normal
Because the house is not he first disconnect point anymore
Why not just one 400A transfer switch?
Why wouldn't you just use a single 400A ATS instead of 2x200A ATS's?
👍👍
Amazing
Yes, you are!!! 🔥🔥🔥
Why use 2 200Amp Transfer Switches? Generac makes a 400Amp transfer switch.
Correct, they are very expensive and I am not sure you can get them right now, but
I have not tried.