Great job... mine turned out awesome with the walkmaker stamp. Just stamp as you screed! Easy and cheap lol😅! Wish I could ad the pictures i took as I was doing it!
Just use a walkmaker to put your stamp in lightly as you screed so you can still reach it! Mine turned out great! I tried to ad a picture but I can't! I did 3 stamped pads the 2 outside ones first then the middle one a few days later they all look good! Do this before you water it obviously
I love how all of y'all are like, "...you should wear a mask but it's breezy so just stand up wind..." Meanwhile, I'm out with my p100 military grade protective mask because I'm afraid it'll set my nose on fire 😏
@@kanaka250 ya sure you did why dont you save the bullshit for your kids, it has to be mixed and mixed for a long time or it will never reach the mixes full Mpa it is impossible so before you open that sucker again try google and learn cos right now your just a fool speaking about shit you have no clue about
How long do you think this will last because I get other people on TH-cam? I don't know if they are cement installers or what but they keep on saying that Is dry pour that's no good. Or I don't know what do you think
If you do it incorrectly it won’t last. Some people put too much water on it too quickly. I’ve seen people that have dry poured slabs that have been there 30 years they say. I find that the nay sayers are all concrete guys that only know one way to do it. I think the environment has a lot to do with it too. I live in the south and don’t get the freezes like northerners get. All concrete is porous so it will absorb water in the winter time it freezes and that’s what breaks the concrete.
I live in California so it's? Hot. So I just wanted to make sure after that 1st crust from mistin. Is it going to absorb through that crust when I do the second and third and fourth water in
if you dont mix it it will NEVER reach its full strength dry pour will gain you about %25 of what it could be if you had done it right m this method is for the contractors who cut corners and cheap out on everything
@@maxf1542 how about every engineer on the planet , google and the bag has instructions as well and if that is not enough 40 years on the job do it for you ?
@@maxf1542 all cementitious products will harden if exposed to moisture but without mixing and air entrainment it is impossible for it to reach strength
Dry pour is sufficient for most things you're gonna do in a typical yard. Can you drive a tank over it? No. Will you ever need to drive a tank over it? Probably not. If you reinforce it with fiberglass rebar and do the same depth you can probably put the same weight on it. It would probably also take it a couple of days to moisten and then soak it properly. There are people who know how. Everybody can't afford to "do it right" and where close enough will do it's better than mud.
@@frostycools1315 non-air-entrained concrete has a significantly better compressive strength than air-entrained concrete at all values of water-cement ratio. Concrete loses 5% compressive strength for every 1% by volume of air entrainment. The purpose of air entrainment is to improve workability of wet concrete mix and to prevent freeze- thaw damage, improving durability primarily during long-term curing and wet environment installation. ASTM testing per C173 or C231 is essential for any concrete specifying air entrainment admixtures per C260-06. Air entrainment is a technique used for pre-cast highway and parking structures which will be exposed to freezing temperatures with heavy use of salt-based de-icing solutions. For DIY residential concrete pad installations, air entrainment is irrelevant. The pre-cast industry uses a method called Dry Cast Concrete where zero slump "dry" mixtures are loaded into molds and then steam cured. This is a controlled method that produces castings with certain significant advantages, but it is not analogous to the TH-cam dry pour methodology. IMO the lack of process specs and standardized engineering testing characterization limits applications to non-code installations.
Great job... mine turned out awesome with the walkmaker stamp. Just stamp as you screed! Easy and cheap lol😅!
Wish I could ad the pictures i took as I was doing it!
Awesome job... looks super smooth!
Give us an update when you take your forms off & get everything all set-up...
That fence looks good in the background. Trying to work on mine now
The one on the back wall is nice. The two sides are rough. All the fences belong to the neighbors so I have no control over them.
No no no no no...! We aleady know how to water the damn thing. How did you stamp it?
I did a tiktok. Maybe I’ll copy it over here.
It’s uploading right now
Just use a walkmaker to put your stamp in lightly as you screed so you can still reach it! Mine turned out great! I tried to ad a picture but I can't! I did 3 stamped pads the 2 outside ones first then the middle one a few days later they all look good!
Do this before you water it obviously
I love how all of y'all are like, "...you should wear a mask but it's breezy so just stand up wind..." Meanwhile, I'm out with my p100 military grade protective mask because I'm afraid it'll set my nose on fire 😏
your concrete is pro job. You should turn phone sideways for better video.
Yeah. I made them in TikTok and just crossed them over here.
not even close to pro level , a pro would mix it knowing it cant reach full mpa this way
@@frostycools1315 I have seen so many pro who mix it and use all equipment. Now the cement by pro is full of crack. LOL
@@kanaka250 ya sure you did why dont you save the bullshit for your kids, it has to be mixed and mixed for a long time or it will never reach the mixes full Mpa it is impossible so before you open that sucker again try google and learn cos right now your just a fool speaking about shit you have no clue about
@@kanaka250 say something else i can laugh at
How long do you think this will last because I get other people on TH-cam? I don't know if they are cement installers or what but they keep on saying that Is dry pour that's no good. Or I don't know what do you think
If you do it incorrectly it won’t last. Some people put too much water on it too quickly. I’ve seen people that have dry poured slabs that have been there 30 years they say. I find that the nay sayers are all concrete guys that only know one way to do it. I think the environment has a lot to do with it too. I live in the south and don’t get the freezes like northerners get. All concrete is porous so it will absorb water in the winter time it freezes and that’s what breaks the concrete.
I live in California so it's? Hot. So I just wanted to make sure after that 1st crust from mistin. Is it going to absorb through that crust when I do the second and third and fourth water in
@@digitalmixer try a small pad with 1 bag and see how it goes
When do you stamp/ stencil
I’ve seen people do it carefully before the first misting
if you dont mix it it will NEVER reach its full strength dry pour will gain you about %25 of what it could be if you had done it right m this method is for the contractors who cut corners and cheap out on everything
Source: opinion? Or trying it and it failing.
@@maxf1542 how about every engineer on the planet , google and the bag has instructions as well and if that is not enough 40 years on the job do it for you ?
@@maxf1542 all cementitious products will harden if exposed to moisture but without mixing and air entrainment it is impossible for it to reach strength
Dry pour is sufficient for most things you're gonna do in a typical yard. Can you drive a tank over it? No. Will you ever need to drive a tank over it? Probably not. If you reinforce it with fiberglass rebar and do the same depth you can probably put the same weight on it. It would probably also take it a couple of days to moisten and then soak it properly. There are people who know how. Everybody can't afford to "do it right" and where close enough will do it's better than mud.
@@frostycools1315 non-air-entrained concrete has a significantly better compressive strength than air-entrained concrete at all values of water-cement ratio. Concrete loses 5% compressive strength for every 1% by volume of air entrainment. The purpose of air entrainment is to improve workability of wet concrete mix and to prevent freeze- thaw damage, improving durability primarily during long-term curing and wet environment installation. ASTM testing per C173 or C231 is essential for any concrete specifying air entrainment admixtures per C260-06.
Air entrainment is a technique used for pre-cast highway and parking structures which will be exposed to freezing temperatures with heavy use of salt-based de-icing solutions. For DIY residential concrete pad installations, air entrainment is irrelevant.
The pre-cast industry uses a method called Dry Cast Concrete where zero slump "dry" mixtures are loaded into molds and then steam cured. This is a controlled method that produces castings with certain significant advantages, but it is not analogous to the TH-cam dry pour methodology. IMO the lack of process specs and standardized engineering testing characterization limits applications to non-code installations.