Got to say the quality of the content in terms of teaching the details has massively increased since you are working solo. Great channel and comments section for the details👍
I feel I said this before.😂at your expansion joint get the splash course team to make it run inline with the house side of the cavity wall, prevents issues at gable
The polystyrene isn't just for expansion, it's to prevent a cold bridge. Your dpc's should also be continuous between plots ie you should have ran it down the step and onto the lower section.
For years now we have put a tray on the first course of blocks also filling the cavity with insulation below dpc no compo droppins in the cavity below dpc Makes it harder , dont know who makes the rules ,martin bricklayer of 40 years , just retired thank fuck ,hard times ahead for pricework bricklayers now ,private sector housing will dry up back to being abused by the big housebuilders , good luck to you all **
@@patrickevans4682 yes mate I got taught that way so why change it see so many people trying to wedge pieces of brick and snap bits of mortar and wedge them 🙄
it is supposed to slide in and out of the sleeve, its called a slip tie and if the wall expands the tie moves with it instead of cracking. What he failed to mention was that when building in your tie you should keep the tie back 10mm from the end of sleeve to allow for movement the other way
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Got to say the quality of the content in terms of teaching the details has massively increased since you are working solo.
Great channel and comments section for the details👍
Tha kyou sir
I'm really enjoying these vids in the past month Changy. I've learned loads.
Can't take ya seriously with that hat on 😂😂😂😂😂
Very nice soldiers Changy !!!
The damp course should travel down the movement joint vertically, behind the expansion foam, to the lower level DPC on a step band course!! Tony
Yeah that makes sense, I guess some inspectors mat ask for that as there is below DPC brickwork abutting against above DPC brickwork.
These videos are full of great information. Keep up the good work. 👍
Excelente trabajo 👊 💯 🧱💪👌🏻
Good teaching there Changy.
Keep 'er lit Bro!
Love your videos, a suggestion, if a stepped terrace put expansion in line with lower plot internal blkwrk, prevents issues at gables
Beautiful work
I feel I said this before.😂at your expansion joint get the splash course team to make it run inline with the house side of the cavity wall, prevents issues at gable
You should pull the whole elevation through, and not at the expansion. Asking for trouble
I normally do if you watched how o did the last one, the opposite side needs filling in its a big hole
Great stuff pal,keep it up🇦🇺
The polystyrene isn't just for expansion, it's to prevent a cold bridge. Your dpc's should also be continuous between plots ie you should have ran it down the step and onto the lower section.
True dat
Changys the man 🧱🧱🧱
Great tips sir👍
What causes the white colouring I see on see on some brickwork on modern homes recently built?
For years now we have put a tray on the first course of blocks also filling the cavity with insulation below dpc no compo droppins in the cavity below dpc
Makes it harder , dont know who makes the rules ,martin bricklayer of 40 years , just retired thank fuck ,hard times ahead for pricework bricklayers now ,private sector housing will dry up back to being abused by the big housebuilders , good luck to you all **
Tidy 👍
Lovely leg Shots 😂👊🏻
Been doing that for ages in Oxford sometimes we forget
See what’s going on there, but where’s the wall insulation? It’s 2022!
They will blow it in when the house is roofed in
and yet insulation should start 150mm below dpc???
Usta gerekliyse geleyim
Really rough concrete floor there mate
Why you not put profile on the end of the wall ? Is there something in the way that end?
debonding ties or wall ties every block course?
Does anyone else use two lines when doing a soldier course?
no but over a long lintel i will prop a length of lath underneath and mark the gauge, helps them from tipping
Yes I do and put a lat underneath every length of soldier .
@@matthewingham7806 that’s how it’s supposed to be done.
@@patrickevans4682 yes mate I got taught that way so why change it see so many people trying to wedge pieces of brick and snap bits of mortar and wedge them 🙄
Yea me 👍
good bricky
usual for block return at threshold
Been pulled for the exact same thing a few months ago
No ya didn’t
Why was that wall 5mm out over such a small height?
You young apprentice bricklayers hope your watching and learning 😉
how's that bonding tie fixed, if its sliding in-and-out of the bonding sleeve?
De-bonding sleeve
it is supposed to slide in and out of the sleeve, its called a slip tie and if the wall expands the tie moves with it instead of cracking. What he failed to mention was that when building in your tie you should keep the tie back 10mm from the end of sleeve to allow for movement the other way
@@larry6518 - Thank you Larry, I wondered the same thing as the OP.
I see no insulation in side the cavity wall?
Blown in
if your not paying your lad a bag of sand week. I will be disappointed.
Don't you have to put clips on your window formers?
Experienced bricklayers make this shit look easy 8:15
What's the make and size of your trowel please ?
Tyzak and its around 8.5 inch now
he's erect😁😁
Nice work. I personally like to boat level every soldier. Makes a big difference 👍
trays over vents are too long. leaving a flat section for mortar build up.
It gets turned up and the trays are cleaned out after every lift, we leave the internal block out behind
You sound like a Stokie!? Nice tip mate
I am
Willy
Duvarı 20 MT bgiık
🤡 chancer 😆
Yuck