Little did I know that seven years later I would need this tutorial on making lead screws. Not sure why I haven't received updated videos from you but thank you for the investment in others future.
Really enjoying some of your techniques and work around for guys like me with a manual lathe and mill. Helping me think outside the box to solve problems. Thanks Dale.
Funny thing is I just fabricated a screw the same way ...and just ran across your video. welded and turned the end to developed the shoulder for the bearing ...Also used a bearing bronze nut inserted in the end to take up the wear in the cast iron nut ...very tight and smooth ...thanks for what you do
Nice work! I prefer soldering, but loctite on a tighter fit would be just as good without having to heat. But you knew that already, of course. While turning acme threads is fun..........this was the best solution for a number of reasons. Thanks for the video!
Thanks Dale, I have a very very, did I say very old lath where the cross slide screws are worn so I have been looking for a method to replace them, looking forward the how you do the nut as that really is the part that is worn on my old lathe
I know that I'm a lurker by some standards. But 30 years in Electronics and many of the things I fixed had electro-mechanical systems. I don't know if you would be interested or want to help but this is on par with the lead screw video. I'm a disabled veteran and I have started a Woodworking shop in my garage. I purchased 3 pieces of equipment from a man several years ago. A DeWalt miter saw, works. A Craftsman table saw, was dropped on the motor side. I was able to get the pivot pins backed out of the motor support. Complete disassembled, removed rust, motor and arbor bearings, alignment, link belt and it runs perfect. Just saying where I'm at in the process. Alas the Craftsman planer-jointer is a different story. On the infeed table side there's a lead screw that raises and lowers the table. The cam is broken into 5 pieces of aluminum. My Son is a welder and he couldn't fix it. Just melted. It's also the FIRST piece to be snatched up on EBAY. 1) Are you or someone else willing to help me? 2) Can it be made out of steel? It has a center screw hole, a cone shaped hole and a straight hole. If someone made 10 of them they could make some money on EBAY. The first thing to break and is unavailable.
The first shop I worked in bad 2 of those Howa brand lathes. They're the most comfortable lathes I've ever used. Everything is at a easy to reach area and smooth as glass.
Hi Dale, greeting from Charlotte, N.C. I made a lead-screw similar to yours for my 1980 Kent surface grinder except mine was 10 TPI ACME left hand threads. I chose to machine it complete from mild steel with slightly oversize pitch diameter to compensate for wear in the bronze nut, which I didn't replace. Keep 'em coming, I'm still learning.
Good job! An example of a job that is not at all complicated but VERY critical. Since the sleeve actually serves no mechanical purpose other than a spacer, I would have just turned the shaft a half thousandth oversize and pressed it on. Still, it never hurts to know how to solder.
Dale great idea. May I suggest another possible way. Cut the lead screw material maybe one thousandth over the diameter of the material that is going to be used to make the shoulder. If you can get some "dry ice" (or just small bucket of water & ice & a small amount of salt added, to increase coldness, or if you have access to some liquid nitrogen) Put your lead screw in the ice bucket for approximate 5 - 10 minutes, then very quickly remove lead screw from the ice solution, and hand push the shoulder material onto the lead screw, when it (the lead screw) reaches room temperature, it will expand back to give a great very tight fit. I would guess that if you had access to liquid nitrogen, you would be able get 3 {three thousandth's} maybe as much as 5 (five thousandth's) difference in diameter. When I worked at a major airplane manufacture here in the Pacific Northwest, Washington state, they did this to some of the rivets on the wings, and when they (the rivets) reached room temperature, it sounded like a guy swinging a 40 lb's sludge hammer against the wing. The first time I heard that noise, I ducked down to the ground, and lying there looking / waiting for something to fall. Heard about five more and was able to figure out what was going on. Plus the guy with the big silver mitts (to protect from the liquid nitrogen) was a dead give away.
That was positively the video I needed see. I am POSITIVE that I need to make a new lead screw/nut for my cross slide. I am POSITIVE, I did not want to turn Acme threads until I fixed the cross slide. I am POSITIVE, I will be using your technique to make what I need. In all seriousness, I hope I can "Build Something That Cool" for my lathe. Great video.
Great idea, much easier than cutting the thread yourself. If that unthreaded section isn't needed you could have shouldered the bearing directly to the turned down thread. I would always have been taught to use a silver/hard solder but a soft/lead solder in this application is perfect, good call.
Good insight into smart engineering solutions. My concern is about how strong is the bond between the hollow sleeve and the rod on which it was fitted?
Interesting -- what was the nut made from? I've pulled screws off machines that were not bad, but the nut was TRASHED. The screw in that case was steel, the nut was bearing bronze.
I like your style. You focus on one point at a time but, don't belabor your points. You get in, say your piece and then cut the lecture. Clean. Very clean.
I would have made a press fit instead of the soldering but I guess it's another way of doing it. Would love to know what it takes to break the solder in a hydraulic press against other methods like Super glue and other methods mentioned in the comments. Great videos BTW.
Actually, this was kinda helpful. I've got some drive motors for an car seat adjustment system that have trapezoidal screw shafts. I need to use them in a robotics project, and I had thought about soldering on a shoulder for a bearing, but I wasn't sure how practical that might be. This gives me a little more confidence.
Cool, as always there is a lathe in our shop with enough slop that I won't even try to chase thread's with it. Thanks for the tip and I'll be looking for the nut video.
While I did watch this to find out how to make a lead screw from scratch I found it instructive all the same. Sometimes you just don't need to reinvent the wheel. I do have a question regarding the solder. It looked to be regular plumbing solder-was it?
I am working converting my small milling machine to CNC . I just bought lead screws.. if I watched this video before I should Have done it myself.. may be next time. Thanks for the video
Great video. When you said solder I thought you were going to brake or hard solder but then I realized that the collar wasn't under severe torque, just supporting the bearings and collars.
Great video Dale. Thanks for sharing. I noticed you use a few different types of carbide inserts to turn that part. I would love for a video explaining the different types, and where to use those different types of Carbide tools.
Nice video. Need to do the same on my 1954 Cincinnati lathe. Would be nice to know the type of solder and temp you were seeking. Also, notice the soft jaws, probably copper pipe? Subscribed!
Enjoyed watching this video Dale. I'm like you, not much of a super glue kinda guy, more of a solder guy too. I liked how you then turned down to match the original, I don't think I would have thought to do it that way. Very clever.
I have used silver solder alone on the lathe to build up a worn shaft then turn back to size. Kinda messy but worked well. Great if you miss your measurement by a thou or two assuming the solder is hard enough for the intended purpose., ie shaft running through a bearing race.
Another way (I used for the cross slide screw on my South Bend) is to simply cut the original at the end of the shoulder, bore it to just under the minor dia of the new threads. Turn down new leadscrew to tight press fit (insert to whatever length you bored) inside the old bored end, and then secure with bearing sleeve retainer. No heat...
Novel way to "fill in" the threads. Thanks for the tip. I was a bit worried when I didn't see any heating of the shaft for the soldering. It seemed to work, though. Sometime I'd like to see a solder joint like that milled away so we could see just how far the solder penetrated without heating the shaft. (Even a tiny bit of penetration should suffice in this application.)
+Peter W. Meek Good Point. I edit out some of the soldering to shorten the video. It took about 4 min to heat it up. Convection heated up the shaft. it was plenty hot for the solder. Thanks for the great comment.
The solder was a good idea, however if you really needed to hold it in place, say due to the stress on the shoulder, I would suggest using JB Weld for the formatting substance.
I agree. I'd have made the collar an interference fit, and sweated it on. If I felt I needed even more security (probably not necessary in this case), I'd have cross drilled a few times, and lock-tite'd in some pins, them turned down the sleeve to finished size. I'm not a bit fan of solder, for torsional loads.
Well I have to say it's depressing to see that there are just as many nit picking squawkers complaining about really not important "issues" here as elsewhere. Gives me some admiration for the folks who post these videos. I think I would get discouraged with the amount of comments that are??? Seems like these people only watch how to videos to tell the poster what they did wrong. Usually in a very derogatory way. I don't know if it was always like this or the current political climate has made people feel like common curtesy is no longer required. Not that this particular video has that many nasty comments but I just watched a few other of Dales videos and some of the comments there were... Good video Dale, gave me another way to skin the cat.
I think it would have been easier to press the sleeve on and pin it, but hey, different strokes. Thanks for the video! I've got some minor repairs to make on an enco 92010 that I stole a few days ago. I'll be watching your vids to get amped up! Keep up the good work!
What do you think of using a dowel pin to hold the sleeve? Good video and I have plumed a house, but never thought of using solder on parts like you did.
I am wondering if you have ever seen a vertical mill adapter to do a similar process of a horizontal lathe? In my head it seems possible, and reason for asking is due to limited floor space. :)
Nice job! Wouldn't an alternative also be to cool the shaft and heat the sleeve in order to get a secure fit? That might work even without glue or solder.
Nice job Dale! To avoid the issue that may arise from heat would not a light press fit and Loctite have been a better option? You are doing good with the Friday tips and should be close if not beyond the point where this has become habitual and thus past the hard part. Congrats!
hmm... at 8:35, the start of the screw is visible, and it has a flat bottom. Does this ramp down to the root? (It looks like it was ground into an impossible corner.)
Dale: I'm curious as to how much slop there was using the new screw and the old nut. Not knowing what class of thread you have, with the new nut/screw combination, just how much play is there? I have a Delta Milwaukee Toolmaker Grinder, unknown age, very worn lead screw. I was able to take up some of the end play out using some teflon washers, but still have about half turn of play in the nut. I'm not sure if it's worth fixing, but without a DRO it is kind of annoying. Jim
Dale . . . I'm a new member to your channel. I don't have a shop right now but will is the future. That's a neat trick you used. It would have taken me some thinking to come up with such a simple and clever idea. Thanks for sharing! If this is just of the kinds of videos you put up, then I am in the right place. As a novice "machinist", I have a lot more to learn. There are a lot of great guys on TH-cam that I have learned from. I know I will learn a lot of tips and tricks of the trade from you. Thanks again. Have a good one! Dave
Very cool. Do you have a recommended supplier for the all-thread? I was shopping stock for my Atlas lathe and saw a pretty huge price variance. I wondered if quality followed price.
+Rick Rose Enco is a good place to find all thread of all types and sizes. Prices are pretty reasonable too. www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=328-2767&PMPXNO=25223462
I checked out the Enco link and was very surprised at the reasonable price. I don't know where I was getting the crazy prices last time I looked, but I was seeing a range from $25 to $100 for a length suitable to replace my carriage drive on my Atlas. Good to know that project won't break the bank. Thanks guys!
Hi Dale, this is great! I need to make a new compound lead screw for my SB Heavy 10 and never thought of using all thread and solder - awesome technique, thanks!
I'm lost. How did you make the purchase? What was the payment method? Did you pick it up or have it shipped? I'm having a hard time achieving the same results making my own threaded rod...purchase. Also who was the target audience?
bluehandsvideo That's cool, I'm going to be there next week. I thought it would be fun to come by your shop and say hi. But my schedule just changed, and Im not going to be able to make the time. Maybe on my next visit to portland.
+Metal Tips and Tricks (Dale Derry) That would be very cool!! It would be great to meet you in person! Everyone says the shop looks a lot more impressive in the vids. lol Definitely keep it in mind for your next trip. :)
positive comments I really enjoy your lessons it would be nice to see you make a foundry and make a part and then machine it .and thanks for making these video's
I would protect your lathe when applying the flux. Especially seeing how you spread it all over the lathe. Flux is acid, A piece of ply under the shaft would protect it, and soak it up and protect it from the flux while soldering. Otherwise a decent vid. Or some aluminum foil.
Little did I know that seven years later I would need this tutorial on making lead screws. Not sure why I haven't received updated videos from you but thank you for the investment in others future.
Really enjoying some of your techniques and work around for guys like me with a manual lathe and mill. Helping me think outside the box to solve problems. Thanks Dale.
Funny thing is I just fabricated a screw the same way ...and just ran across your video. welded and turned the end to developed the shoulder for the bearing ...Also used a bearing bronze nut inserted in the end to take up the wear in the cast iron nut
...very tight and smooth ...thanks for what you do
Nice. Glad to see a 4-jaw chuck being used rather than a 3-jaw that Mr. Atlas has tightened so much that it won't hold the workpiece.
Nice work! I prefer soldering, but loctite on a tighter fit would be just as good without having to heat. But you knew that already, of course. While turning acme threads is fun..........this was the best solution for a number of reasons. Thanks for the video!
I like easy real-world solutions to problems we might encounter with our machines. Great video.
I wasn't looking for this, but this solution will work for my different application. Wow. Great work, thanks for this video.
Thanks. I think I’ll try & repair the lead screw on my WWII South Bend 13” lathe.
Always enjoy your instructions.
Thanks Dale, I have a very very, did I say very old lath where the cross slide screws are worn so I have been looking for a method to replace them, looking forward the how you do the nut as that really is the part that is worn on my old lathe
I loved the idea of soldering sleeve . Great video.
I know that I'm a lurker by some standards. But 30 years in Electronics and many of the things I fixed had electro-mechanical systems.
I don't know if you would be interested or want to help but this is on par with the lead screw video. I'm a disabled veteran and I have started a Woodworking shop in my garage. I purchased 3 pieces of equipment from a man several years ago.
A DeWalt miter saw, works. A Craftsman table saw, was dropped on the motor side. I was able to get the pivot pins backed out of the motor support. Complete disassembled, removed rust, motor and arbor bearings, alignment, link belt and it runs perfect. Just saying where I'm at in the process.
Alas the Craftsman planer-jointer is a different story. On the infeed table side there's a lead screw that raises and lowers the table. The cam is broken into 5 pieces of aluminum. My Son is a welder and he couldn't fix it. Just melted.
It's also the FIRST piece to be snatched up on EBAY.
1) Are you or someone else willing to help me?
2) Can it be made out of steel? It has a center screw hole, a cone shaped hole and a straight hole.
If someone made 10 of them they could make some money on EBAY. The first thing to break and is unavailable.
Dale, well done. Very good idea, actually it will help around our shop, never thought of soldering a sleave on that way.Thank you for sharing this.
+Glenn Felpel
My pleasure
Never thought about such a repair/replacement. Thanks.
The first shop I worked in bad 2 of those Howa brand lathes. They're the most comfortable lathes I've ever used. Everything is at a easy to reach area and smooth as glass.
+Phil Lowman
:-)
Hi Dale, greeting from Charlotte, N.C. I made a lead-screw similar to yours for my 1980 Kent surface grinder except mine was 10 TPI ACME left hand threads. I chose to machine it complete from mild steel with slightly oversize pitch diameter to compensate for wear in the bronze nut, which I didn't replace. Keep 'em coming, I'm still learning.
Good job! An example of a job that is not at all complicated but VERY critical. Since the sleeve actually serves no mechanical purpose other than a spacer, I would have just turned the shaft a half thousandth oversize and pressed it on. Still, it never hurts to know how to solder.
Dale great idea. May I suggest another possible way. Cut the lead screw material maybe one thousandth over the diameter of the material that is going to be used to make the shoulder. If you can get some "dry ice" (or just small bucket of water & ice & a small amount of salt added, to increase coldness, or if you have access to some liquid nitrogen) Put your lead screw in the ice bucket for approximate 5 - 10 minutes, then very quickly remove lead screw from the ice solution, and hand push the shoulder material onto the lead screw, when it (the lead screw) reaches room temperature, it will expand back to give a great very tight fit.
I would guess that if you had access to liquid nitrogen, you would be able get 3 {three thousandth's} maybe as much as 5 (five thousandth's) difference in diameter. When I worked at a major airplane manufacture here in the Pacific Northwest, Washington state, they did this to some of the rivets on the wings, and when they (the rivets) reached room temperature, it sounded like a guy swinging a 40 lb's sludge hammer against the wing. The first time I heard that noise, I ducked down to the ground, and lying there looking / waiting for something to fall. Heard about five more and was able to figure out what was going on. Plus the guy with the big silver mitts (to protect from the liquid nitrogen) was a dead give away.
+Stanwood Dave
great suggestion, and storie. ill have to try that
That was positively the video I needed see. I am POSITIVE that I need to make a new lead screw/nut for my cross slide. I am POSITIVE, I did not want to turn Acme threads until I fixed the cross slide. I am POSITIVE, I will be using your technique to make what I need. In all seriousness, I hope I can "Build Something That Cool" for my lathe. Great video.
Great idea, much easier than cutting the thread yourself.
If that unthreaded section isn't needed you could have shouldered the bearing directly to the turned down thread.
I would always have been taught to use a silver/hard solder but a soft/lead solder in this application is perfect, good call.
Hi jonathan, I like your comment. Remember if you have enough surface soft solder will work as well as silver solder, and it is a lot cheaper :-)
Great fun video, thanks. I have a few lead screw issues and this is as helpful as any when searching for remedies.
I'll keep this one in my bag of tricks. Thanks for sharing.
Good insight into smart engineering solutions. My concern is about how strong is the bond between the hollow sleeve and the rod on which it was fitted?
Frederick Norteye strong enough, its not like theres and great force trying to dislodge it.
very good dale, enjoyed it as usual. I like the solder over the super glue much more.
Sorry this video does not show how to make a lead screw. It does show how to buy one.
Interesting -- what was the nut made from? I've pulled screws off machines that were not bad, but the nut was TRASHED. The screw in that case was steel, the nut was bearing bronze.
I like your style. You focus on one point at a time but, don't belabor your points. You get in, say your piece and then cut the lecture. Clean. Very clean.
I would have made a press fit instead of the soldering but I guess it's another way of doing it. Would love to know what it takes to break the solder in a hydraulic press against other methods like Super glue and other methods mentioned in the comments. Great videos BTW.
Actually, this was kinda helpful. I've got some drive motors for an car seat adjustment system that have trapezoidal screw shafts. I need to use them in a robotics project, and I had thought about soldering on a shoulder for a bearing, but I wasn't sure how practical that might be. This gives me a little more confidence.
Nice work. I was wondering , you said the shoulder does not do anything so why not just make an interference fit. Thanks for the video.
+cerberus
I did it as an exercise for other people to see how to do it.
....love watching work like this, very nice explanations, and projects we all need to do for one machine or another.....,
+Rick L
I makes me happy to know its going to help you out some day.
+Metal Tips and Tricks (Dale Derry) .....ordered some acme thread rod few days ago.......will be helping me out very soon, again thanks.
Cool, as always there is a lathe in our shop with enough slop that I won't even try to chase thread's with it. Thanks for the tip and I'll be looking for the nut video.
While I did watch this to find out how to make a lead screw from scratch I found it instructive all the same. Sometimes you just don't need to reinvent the wheel. I do have a question regarding the solder. It looked to be regular plumbing solder-was it?
Thanks. I have a project need to putting a bearing on a shaft. Thanks for sharing.
I am working converting my small milling machine to CNC . I just bought lead screws.. if I watched this video before I should Have done it myself.. may be next time. Thanks for the video
Great video. When you said solder I thought you were going to brake or hard solder but then I realized that the collar wasn't under severe torque, just supporting the bearings and collars.
Brake not break...
Damn spell check Braze
you would be surprised how much torque that a solder joint will take
ive got a leadscrew to repair and this is the way i,ll do it thanks from uk
Great video Dale. Thanks for sharing. I noticed you use a few different types of carbide inserts to turn that part. I would love for a video explaining the different types, and where to use those different types of Carbide tools.
Nice video. Need to do the same on my 1954 Cincinnati lathe. Would be nice to know the type of solder and temp you were seeking. Also, notice the soft jaws, probably copper pipe? Subscribed!
Great work Dale. Thanks for showing the technique!
+Herb Blair
Im glad you liked it.
Enjoyed watching this video Dale. I'm like you, not much of a super glue kinda guy, more of a solder guy too. I liked how you then turned down to match the original, I don't think I would have thought to do it that way. Very clever.
thanks for your comment
This is a very good video, well done with the "soldering work around". I would never have thought of that. You did great, I learnt something!
great job, experience is seen very clearly
Great video! I found it easy to understand.
I have used silver solder alone on the lathe to build up a worn shaft then turn back to size. Kinda messy but worked well. Great if you miss your measurement by a thou or two assuming the solder is hard enough for the intended purpose., ie shaft running through a bearing race.
Very nice, and most helpful trick for me. Lead screw for my lathe isnt that easy to get over here... Thanks!
From Erling in Oslo, Norway ;)
+Erling Weiseth
Im glad this tip will help you out.
That chuck key is a weapon!
Loctite also works quite well
Good video, pleasure watching.
+SamBell
Thanks
Very cool, I'm going to use to upgrade from belts to lead screws on my 3D printer concept.
Most successful Dale -- look fwd to seeing that nut aspect dealt with.
+ChrisB257
Me too! LOL
Another way (I used for the cross slide screw on my South Bend) is to simply cut the original at the end of the shoulder, bore it to just under the minor dia of the new threads. Turn down new leadscrew to tight press fit (insert to whatever length you bored) inside the old bored end, and then secure with bearing sleeve retainer. No heat...
Novel way to "fill in" the threads. Thanks for the tip.
I was a bit worried when I didn't see any heating of the shaft for the soldering. It seemed to work, though. Sometime I'd like to see a solder joint like that milled away so we could see just how far the solder penetrated without heating the shaft. (Even a tiny bit of penetration should suffice in this application.)
+Peter W. Meek
Good Point. I edit out some of the soldering to shorten the video. It took about 4 min to heat it up. Convection heated up the shaft. it was plenty hot for the solder.
Thanks for the great comment.
The solder was a good idea, however if you really needed to hold it in place, say due to the stress on the shoulder, I would suggest using JB Weld for the formatting substance.
ill give it a try
Its great job plz make video on 2mouth thread
thought soldering was the intelligent choice for this as opposed to some sort of glue or even a press fit,hot or cold...thanks for sharing you work!
thanks fro your comment
clear and straight forward, nice
Thanks
I'm a big fan of having the hole exactly the same size as the rod. Freeze the rod, heat the sleeve and when they come together they're stuck!
+Marsh Wildman
That a good idea.
+Metal Tips and Tricks (Dale Derry)
I'll say!
a container of ice cubes and water at the ready may help speed up the method.
:)
I agree.
I'd have made the collar an interference fit, and sweated it on.
If I felt I needed even more security (probably not necessary in this case), I'd have cross drilled a few times, and lock-tite'd in some pins, them turned down the sleeve to finished size.
I'm not a bit fan of solder, for torsional loads.
BedsitBob x
Absolutely. I wouldn't trust glue or solder.
Great ! Hunger to see how you will make the nut. Will you buy a threaded nut and solder it inside a support?
That video will be out tomorrow
Well I have to say it's depressing to see that there are just as many nit picking squawkers complaining about really not important "issues" here as elsewhere. Gives me some admiration for the folks who post these videos. I think I would get discouraged with the amount of comments that are??? Seems like these people only watch how to videos to tell the poster what they did wrong. Usually in a very derogatory way. I don't know if it was always like this or the current political climate has made people feel like common curtesy is no longer required. Not that this particular video has that many nasty comments but I just watched a few other of Dales videos and some of the comments there were...
Good video Dale, gave me another way to skin the cat.
great work Dale. thanks for sharing
Thanks
I think it would have been easier to press the sleeve on and pin it, but hey, different strokes. Thanks for the video! I've got some minor repairs to make on an enco 92010 that I stole a few days ago. I'll be watching your vids to get amped up! Keep up the good work!
You have great style of communicating and your video work is very well done, this channel is a keeper !!
curious where you sourced the threaded rod you used thanks and great video!
What do you think of using a dowel pin to hold the sleeve?
Good video and I have plumed a house, but never thought of using solder on parts like you did.
Hi Dale- your shop looks great like a laboratory!
+Raymond Stanis
Thank you> Its a lot of fun.
I am wondering if you have ever seen a vertical mill adapter to do a similar process of a horizontal lathe? In my head it seems possible, and reason for asking is due to limited floor space. :)
Garage Hollywood! Fun to watch you
Soldering is great technic.
Nice job! Wouldn't an alternative also be to cool the shaft and heat the sleeve in order to get a secure fit? That might work even without glue or solder.
Nice job Dale! To avoid the issue that may arise from heat would not a light press fit and Loctite have been a better option? You are doing good with the Friday tips and should be close if not beyond the point where this has become habitual and thus past the hard part. Congrats!
hmm... at 8:35, the start of the screw is visible, and it has a flat bottom. Does this ramp down to the root? (It looks like it was ground into an impossible corner.)
Dale:
I'm curious as to how much slop there was using the new screw and the old nut. Not knowing what class of thread you have, with the new nut/screw combination, just how much play is there? I have a Delta Milwaukee Toolmaker Grinder, unknown age, very worn lead screw. I was able to take up some of the end play out using some teflon washers, but still have about half turn of play in the nut. I'm not sure if it's worth fixing, but without a DRO it is kind of annoying.
Jim
Dale . . . I'm a new member to your channel. I don't have a shop right now but will is the future. That's a neat trick you used. It would have taken me some thinking to come up with such a simple and clever idea. Thanks for sharing! If this is just of the kinds of videos you put up, then I am in the right place. As a novice "machinist", I have a lot more to learn. There are a lot of great guys on TH-cam that I have learned from. I know I will learn a lot of tips and tricks of the trade from you. Thanks again.
Have a good one!
Dave
+Swarf Rat
Im Glad you found my Channel. I hope I don't let you down.
Just a hobbyist but might be able to use your idea. Impressive!
How long did you wait after the solder to turn it down? Was there any warping?
Any tips for making multi start lead screws?
Very cool. Do you have a recommended supplier for the all-thread? I was shopping stock for my Atlas lathe and saw a pretty huge price variance. I wondered if quality followed price.
+Rick Rose Enco is a good place to find all thread of all types and sizes. Prices are pretty reasonable too.
www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=328-2767&PMPXNO=25223462
Enco is a good source also Mc Mastercarr
I checked out the Enco link and was very surprised at the reasonable price. I don't know where I was getting the crazy prices last time I looked, but I was seeing a range from $25 to $100 for a length suitable to replace my carriage drive on my Atlas. Good to know that project won't break the bank. Thanks guys!
Just curious why you chose to put on a sleeve since you had to turn it anyway. I figure there's something I'm missing.
Hello Dale, is the flux a special product or it's just cholridric acid as well as I know?
Loved the video as usual Dale! I look forward to your video all week at work
Nice job and good idea, I made the same way my new lead screw for X1 mill ,the difference, I use the anaerobic glue .
Hi Dale, this is great! I need to make a new compound lead screw for my SB Heavy 10 and never thought of using all thread and solder - awesome technique, thanks!
Im glad you liked it. :-)
I'm lost. How did you make the purchase? What was the payment method? Did you pick it up or have it shipped? I'm having a hard time achieving the same results making my own threaded rod...purchase. Also who was the target audience?
you did a great work on that here some +++++++++++++++ positives
Hi Arion thanks for the +++++++ comment :-)
Hi Dale Thanks for the vid - learn a lot from your videos - Thanks again
+Newmachinist
Thanks for watching.
Great work has been done....exemplary
Nice Job you did. You needed something functional and accurate. Good way to do that.
Nice and simple tip. Thank you for sharing. Can you tell us where did you buy the lead screw? Radu
Great work. 0.02mm interference heating and pressing should be good too IMO.
I used to make lead screws for furnaces, o.d 90mm and 115mm, 4m long and 5.5m longer , happy days
I'm new to this, but I've noticed ACME threads seem to have a lot of slop to them, so why use them at all?
Nice job Dale. I need to do this for a small milling machine. Unfortunently my lathe isn't big enough. Just means I need to buy a bigger lathe :-)
Outstanding work as usual!
+DoRite Fabrication
thanks dude
Awesome video Dale!! Thanks!!!
+bluehandsvideo
Thanks dude
Do you live in Portland or area?
+Metal Tips and Tricks (Dale Derry) I'm in Gresham, on the east side of Portland.
bluehandsvideo That's cool, I'm going to be there next week. I thought it would be fun to come by your shop and say hi. But my schedule just changed, and Im not going to be able to make the time. Maybe on my next visit to portland.
+Metal Tips and Tricks (Dale Derry) That would be very cool!! It would be great to meet you in person! Everyone says the shop looks a lot more impressive in the vids. lol Definitely keep it in mind for your next trip. :)
Nice job. Love the video.
Thank you
how to make a lead screw:
step one; buy a lead screw....
Milling is done on a mill, Turning is done on a lathe.
Yes
I never would have thought to solder that sleeve on the shaft on my own.
positive comments I really enjoy your lessons it would be nice to see you make a foundry and make a part and then machine it .and thanks for making these video's
I would protect your lathe when applying the flux. Especially seeing how you spread it all over the lathe. Flux is acid, A piece of ply under the shaft would protect it, and soak it up and protect it from the flux while soldering. Otherwise a decent vid. Or some aluminum foil.
outstanding work
your videos are worthy watching
Thanks Alex
Where did you get the acme rod, and how much did it cost you?