@ 6:57 it looks like it is in A/C mode (snowflake symbol) above the set point temp at the top but when he cuts back the light is pulsating orange which should indicate heat mode so I am not sure. Wave 2 manual: cdn.solarpowersupply.eu/files/(EN)%20Manual%20Ecoflow%20wave2-20230419.pdf The only theory I can come up with is the hose is a tight L behind the curtain and it throttles it which could explain the lower Wattage with the hose connected? Heat Pumps do work even in negative degrees Fahrenheit
I kinda agree with you, but I feel like for the price he paid for it himself without it being sent to him/with a sponsor, he probably read the instructions. Nobody would actually do that and play dumb when they're playing with $2000 basically. But then again we're talking about Tyler here...
This video is pretty much proof that Tyler's "dummy act" is just that...an act. If he can spit out heat exchange numbers like that, I guarantee you he can pronounce zucchini, merlot, chardonnay and filet mignon.
I am glad someone finally tested it without the intake hose on video. Just as I thought, it heats better without it at cold temps. It also helps to insulate those hoses. That is a lot for an AC and I would not be willing to pay that for it. I would save a bunch and just get a window unit.
The website does list the lowest operating temperature as 41°F. Which is still useful in certain places (Where I live it only gets to freezing a few times a year but is 40s-50s most of the time), but definitely not in harsher climates. There are cold weather heat pumps that can operate well under freezing temperatures but idk what they do to make them capable of that.
Thumbs up for being honest I almost instantly click off a video if they are sponsored by the company. You know how many videos review eco flow products that are bought out from them vs not paid reviews is crazy! Keep up the great work!!!!
Tyler, I love you bro but sometimes I think you mess up on your experiments.. 😅 I’m relatively certain that the hoses are for the AC function side of things. Why would you pull in 20 degree air from outside to heat and warm the indoors?
They are for the AC yes. A traditional heat pump uses refrigerant to move BTUs in or out of spaces. You can literally make your own version of this thing by getting a 150 dollar window unit and just flipping it around in the window lol. Or a portable unit; duct tape some cheap insulated tubing to the intake and the supply air side and leave the vent tube for the hot side off.
Yeah since when does a heater need to be hooked up outside. Keep it in the room and all heat is in the room. He is sending heat outside lol. The hoses only need to be connected outside when you are trying to cool the room like every other AC.
@@nevernever2002 Sure you could flip a window unit around if you want all the humidity from outside to be dripped all over your floor. AC units not only remove heat but they remove water from the air.
The reason for it using less energy with the rear inatke out the window, is down to the lower temperatures decreasing the suction pressure of the compressor which means it requires less power to "compress". As soon as the inatke is room temperature, the pressures starts to increase, it becomes harder to compress and will increase power consumption👍
I came to the comments hoping I wasn't the only one that understands HVAC! You have slightly restored my faith in humanity. To be honest I was sad to see Tyler obviously researched BTU but didn't do the same for heat pumps and was so confident in the limited understanding he had. I'm not bad mouthing him, I understand we and he can't be experts on everything. I still love the channel and will continue to watch but I was genuinely excited for this video and sadly let down by he's presentation.
That's exactly what I was going to say in addition to the higher discharge pressure with a warmer inlet air temperature. AC units behave the same way drawing more power as either the inside or the outside air temperature increases for the same reason. Inverter driven systems are a little different because they may run the compressor at less than full speed in heat mode when the outside temperature is higher and then run the compressor faster as the outside temperature drops to maintain (or at least try to maintain) the setpoint.
Well, inverter systems are more benefical energy wise as well. While being able to maintain a tighter differential, they dont have to kick in and out on full power all the time. They'll just hum away using next to no power. I did find the companys heat output calculations strange though, but thinking about it a little more. In the video, the heat energy thats being added to the room is also being used as the inlet air to boil off refrigerant, and then exhaust outside. So i guess the figures would match up in perfect conditions🤔
Literally was about to put a comment along the lines of "heat pumps are more efficient" when you went right on and acknowledged it yourself lol... dammit Tyler, with your Jalapenos and electric hammers and whatnots
Heatpumps draw heat energy from the environment and this process uses energy not the conversion of electrical energy to heat. So its actually quite realistic to get about 3 times the energy you put in out in heat, because all the pump does is "concentrate" the heat in a smaller volume of air so to speak. To manage that however the thing needed to draw that heat out of the outside air and put it into some air inside and afterwards geting the air back out again. That means you need 2! hoses to the outside, intake and outtake not just one. You either let the thing draw heat from the inside or blew the cooled air to put outside right back in. For having next to zero effect...
Im working on a build for a plug in heater furnace box. It has a heat exchanger built in and a filter you can change. The heater runs on a thermostat plug and the fresh air fans run 24/7. Brings in fresh air, exchanges it across the exit air and is heated before being fan forced and directed to the floor. I hope to make a prototype soon and begin testing. 👍 I also have a cool idea I’m way too busy to even look at where you take a small iron stove and make it so you can burn multiple fuels. Attachments to burn propane, diesel, oil, wood, pellets etc. all you gotta do is let it cool down and change the attached pieces.
I have this and I already had an anker solix power bank with solar panels. Just letting everyone know the solix panels do charge the eco flow as well and it works fine with the anker products. You don’t have to buy the eco flow products to go with it
I love that you didn’t accept a free unit. Ecoflow literally sends free product to everyone… good job keeping it real!! They would be drooling at the mouth to send you free stuff…
Straight from the first page of the manual: Ambient Temperature for Operation: 41F - 122F... Tell me you didn't read the manual without telling me you didn't read the manual
The other thing about the dual hoses for A/C is, the intake will just be sucking the exhaust air... not "cool" outside air because the 2 hoses are right next to each other in the window. Maybe if you use 2 different windows it will work.
Duh ! IT'S A HEAT PUMP. The instructions say not use the exterior heat exchanger air inlet if below 40 deg F. Efficiency drops to the point it is nearly non-functional. Just use interior air to supply the heat exchanger and only connect the exhaust hose outside. Just have to address the negative air pressure with some other conditioned air source. Then it will work fine (within its design limitations).......
I think everyone here is watching technology connections, auto shenanigans, tylertube, post 10 etc... this is the web we caught ourselves in on youtube 😂
Never use outside air . Only plus to this is it’s not sticking out when stealth camping . But not sure its worth $1000 more than a inverter window unit
They tested that thing in all kinds of temps. The best it got for 1 sec out of all that testing time is probably the numbers they used, but then they doubled it arbitrarily. I was thinking about one of these. I'm so glad I saw this 1st!
The reason why it can get more BTUs than the capacity of the battery is because it is most likely a heat pump. They can get up to 5x the efficiency of a regular resistive heater because it is just transferring the existing energy in the environment instead of adding additional energy. Edit: Probably the reason why the heater didn't work in the first part was because it wasn't vented. If it is a heat pump it will blow hot air out the front and cold air out the back creating an environment that is the same as what you started with. If you can vent the waste air to the outside you would get better results.
I have a heat pump bc I am in the south in the states but it's been down to 28 a few nights the past two winters and not once did my furnace run stage 1 and 2 which is heat pump with heat strips. Heat pumps run a lot better these days than older heat pumps.
For heating, I get the impression this product is more for camping trips in November, not for 20 degree winter days. If it gets a little chilly at night, this can bring it up to comfortable. But not for winter time
The heat pump in your garage has an electric back up, and that is what’s putting out 120 degrees. Heat pumps alone will only put out about 80 degrees as long as the outside temp is above 32 degrees. 5 years HVAC experience for anyone wondering plus 2 years trade school.
I bought a refurbished one and never had a problem and way cheaper. Got mine off there Ebay store. On the display it will tell you the temperature of the air comes out also. Max is fan speed that is to fast for heat.
i think you're supposed to have a small camp fire outside and use the ducts to pull in that heated air... if you have ppl that spent $1200 for this then they'll believe that line to justify that they didn't get scammed...
So...he didn't read the directions. NO heating system is going to be able to heat 20 degree air to 70 degrees in one go. The whole point is recirculating the air. So every pass through the machine, it is heating slightly warmer air. Air conditioners do the same thing. They RECIRCULATE the air. They don't take the 90 degree outside air and magically cool it through the freon coils in one pass.
Eh...actually, most heat pumps and air conditioners can. My central system heat pump is almost 20 years old and has a 28-33F degree temperature drop across the inside coil in cooling, 35-40F rise in temperature in heating mode. I can vouch for 20F as the coldest we ever had here was 24F, but at 24F it was able to maintain 72F inside.
I would agree with you, however you said heating system… a 400,000 btu propane furnace can absolutely heat a 4000 sq foot shop to “un-livable” in no time lol
That’s not how it works. It’s physics and pressure. Air, however hot, can be compressed enough to lower the kinetic energy and slow the air molecules, cooking the air. All air conditioning systems like this operate on these fundamental principles, and which is why they have Freon and compression systems
I thought I heard you say this is a heat pump, is that right? If so, heat pumps heat very slowly. It takes time to get a room up to temp and the heat you feel from the unit feels cool, but they can heat a room. In a heat pump heated home, the amount of air flow makes a huge difference in the temperature change. When Mine was installed, they told me to open all the air vents, because the more air flow you have, the better it can heat your space.
Unless a heat pump is specifically rated for winter use, it's at most going to be good for a cool spring night. As soon as the temperature outside dips below 32 F, their efficiency plummets. I have one rated for 0 F, but it starts struggling well above that. It's still enough to heat my room, but I can tell that it couldn't handle much more. It probably doesn't help that my room isn't that well insulated either. Also yeah, a COP of 3 is pretty standard. A heat pump that draws 500W and has a COP of 3, should be putting out about 1500W of heat. It's not creating energy out of nothing, it's moving the energy from the outside air into the room.
Google "are heat pumps good in cold weather". Heats pumps are MORE efficient at heating when it's cold. That's because they require cold when transferring heat. Mostpeople get this confused because they think you can't get cold from heat and heat from cold, but that's exactly what heat pumps do. This thing isn't a heat pump, there's no external condenser unit, it's doing the condensing right where it's trying to heat/cool. It's just a bad space heater and a portable A/C.
Just turned the heat in mine on. 66° room air it’s blowing out 100.8° air. It’s not really cold out. But when it was in the mid 30’s outside its was still able to put out atleast 20° delta in temp difference. I believe ecoflow uses a not so low number for outside temp before it’s not as efficient. But it definitely worked when it got in the 30’s. The AC part in the upper 80’s an humid as hell. Depending just like the delta on heat. The fan speed. On low it’s about a 20° degree delta. Speed two it’s like 16-17 speed 3 is like 15-16 and turbo is like 14-15° difference. These things are made for off grid/power out and to be able to run off of battery banks aside from the attachable one. A not be a huge energy draw. I forget the square footage they claim but these things are for tent sized areas. Not home sized rooms and big duel rear axle rv’s ect. So it it don’t work for someone. They don’t know how to work with its limitations and maybe do different things to capitalize on its ability.
Hey mate cooling/heating capacity in aircon/refrig is measured differently. You need input capacity kW. It's a totally different calculation. Love the channel bro
@@NoZenithwell if the tube is pulling in air colder than 40F from outside then the heater won’t work. So he needs to only use one tube (exhaust) and allow the machine to use the 50F degree air already in the room then it would heat the room up
@thepatternforms859 I don't know if that's got what this guy was talking about or not. But running it with no tubes would be doing almost nothing because it would be dumping All the cold air right back in the room too. I've seen people misunderstanding the unit because the advertising isn't all that clear and they don't have the mindset to understand this isn't a resistive space heater.
@fluffehgamer4712 I don't care if it can file my taxes for me. If I'm buying it for its main purpose of heating and cooling than it better be good at that.
This thing is awesome in a small space like tent or vehicle. I found that it is recycling the air sucked through the front. So at initial heating/cooling of your space if you feed it cold/hot air it will will help it get your space to your temp way faster, then you can stop feeding the air and it will do fine maintaining the space temp.
The measurement of BTUs is mote applicable to how much energy is transferred from the intake air to the output air. If you are taking 20deg air and heating it to 60deg that is a considerable heat input. Tyler is being overly simplistic. Not reading the manual to find out the operating parameters of the device is also dodgy in my opinion... At least he tried it with the more logical approach of using one hose to exhaust the cold air. At least you would be able to sit in front of the unit in your camper and feel warmer... These are not really "space heaters". They are small portable units to make small spaces more comfortable. We are thinking about buying one, but understand its limitations. The advantage for us is that ONE device will do 2 things, which is a space and cost saving. We have a slide on camper shell that goes on a tray top 4WD.
Why would it need cold air from outside if it is heating up the air from inside? Sounds like you are just supposed to keep the hose inside so that it can keep circulating inside air.
But if your using it in a tent or a small building that is not insulated you would get the same results as he did with the tubes out the window so iam glade he did it that way even though you would get more heat from not useing the tubes
@@raycenewswanger4974If it is a proper heat pump, yes it is. That's how they work, they move energy around (heat = energy) look up heat pumps real ones. Technology connections makes a great video on how they work. If it is however just a resistive heater it's probably trash, but Tyler isn't exactly known for his experimental rigor there is a room size and insulation ratio that will simply prevent a heat pump of this size from doing it's job. And there is a temperature outside where it will simply not be possible for it to extract latent heat from the air outside. (Just before freezing is basically when they fall off a cliff and he clearly states it is below freezing outside)
Heat pumps lose efficiency once outside temps fall below 40 degrees F down to 25 degrees F. Below 25 degrees F, they become ineffective as there is not enough residual heat in the air for it to pull, hence why when installing a heat pump, the tech will install an auxiliary heater indoors in order to heat the space once temps become too low. There is an actual thermal switch in the external heat pump that will switch the unit over to aux heat once temps fall below the threshold. Auxiliary Heat will turn on automatically when heat can no longer efficiently transfer heat from the outside air to the heat pump.
Heat pumps don't create any heat. They move heat found in the environment, thermal energy already there. They expend energy moving the heat. I am curious as to the volume of the room and insulation rating. That would be useful information
It's only rated down to 41*, that's why it didn't work when the temp was 20*. Your heat pump in your garage heats at that 20* because it also has a heating element in it which the wave 2 doesn't have. This is more a fair weather heat/ac device. Think, you want to just warm up or cool down a room that may have bad airflow from your normal HVAC system or just to warm up or cool down a tent. It's not an end all be all device even though they sort of claim it is.
Not defending the product but you don't need ventilation to the outside for an electric space heater. I believe using the heating option without ventilation to the outside would work way better. With a.c. you need the ventilation to transfer the heat out of the house.
its getting hotter each passing yr....& when pwr is dwn from weather...alot of old ppl dealing w/the humidty....which could turn out 2b dangerous for em....& ppl dont have the money to blow on stuff that dont wrk....when they rlly need something like this but greed gets n the way of making something that could of been a great product....ur vid is a must...cuz....stuff like this is a necessity now....but it needs to rlly wrk...
Heat pumps are limited by the pumped fluids' ability to evaporate/condense. If the ambient air is below the evaporation temperature of the fluid then the heat cycle will be unable to operate and you will just be pumping liquid at low pressures which is bad for a compressor pump. I bet the reason that the power level goes up is because as the evaporator warms up above the vaporization point of the fluid it quickly turns to gas increasing the pressure which in turn increases the pumping resistance that the unit sees.
I would try running it on ac mode with the pipes running from the front out the window because the heat that comes of the back gets toasty give it a shot we use our portable air conditioning units to help heat our kitchen in the winter
Look at the way your central air system works pulls air Though the return in the house blowes air out the supply in the house. Cycles the same air. So what your doing venting both ways is pulling in cold air blowing out your warm air.
Bro you do understand that it's basically an air conditioner that works in Reverse right the only way for it to properly work it's for you to keep the inside air and keep recirculating that and as far as bringing it up to 70° or 68° at 500 w that's one third of what a space heater would use which is excellent not to mention you were trying to eat a room bigger than it was capable of and it still did it
Heat pumps start losing efficiency at 35 degrees. Exponentially under that. Your heat pump in your garage should have resistive heating elements as well. Its probably using 1 or all of them to supplement during cold weather outside
I think it pulls in air through one hose; sucks the heat out of it and concentrates it to exchange with the air flow going through it in your room, and spits out that now-cooler outside air through the other outside hose. The cold outside air doesn't get into the room (principally). With so many hoses it does get a bit confusing. :) The theory is good - but this particular unit is hyped-up a bit from the looks of it and isn't the most efficient type and isn't rated for the outside temperature tested. I'd love to have a 500W similarly dimensioned device with those hose attachments that was rated for those temperatures and that could run continuously, and was good for A/C up to at least 104. I'm not sure they're available anywhere. :( My interest in this was piqued by those additional hose attachments ... for a moment I was fooled into thinking this might be a contender. :)
nb: for more extreme temperatures and such small amounts of power as 500W, I suppose seeing uninsulated hoses are a red flag lol. With large deltas between temperatures, then all that surface area presented by long hoses sitting between the big temperature difference is going to introduce some considerable efficiency loss. Those hoses effectively become something of a heat exchanger. You can buy similar hoses but with insulated cladding that will surely make some significant positive difference to the efficiency under those circumstances.
That's not exactly how Heat pumps work. Heat pumps have reversing valves that change the direction of refrigerant compared to a regular AC system. Think of a Heat pump turning the inside AC coil into the outdoor coil and vice versa, depending on the heating/cooling load. So, the exhaust tube Tyler was using was blowing cold air outside.
Question...Since this is electric, why not remove the exhaust hose? Would that not also help with the heat and then put it on when you turn it to the A/C?
Regarding the heatpump, older units worked good only down to about 37 degrees. Although this is a new unit, it's probably operating at the same efficiency. Point being, it's a cheap unit with horrible efficiency. Newer heat pumps can go down to 20 degrees with little efficiency loss. And if you want to get really fancy, some inverter drive units can utilize heat pump mode into sub 0 temps!
19:07 - With air source heat pumps this phenomenon is called COP degradation. This occurs when the temperature difference between outdoors and indoors decreases it becomes harder for the heat pump to extract heat from the outside air. To compensate for this the unit has to work harder, increasing the energy input to maintain the same heating capacity. I am not implying this particular AC/heat pump is efficient or perfect. The input power increase as the heat source temperature rises is normal for any air source heat pump.
Thanks for the great video! I think from your video, it'll struggle to heat a room, however if you attach the exhaust tube inside your sleeping bag or duvet it's going to be rather warm? So really this is a personal heater / cooler?
Loved the skepticism, actually felt like the most well thought out deduction I've heard tyler say in a long time of watching. The beauty of heatpumps is they aren't creating the heat, they are just moving it. This results in something like 300% efficiency in regards to heat produced. Which funny enough matches that 1/3rd the power comment. The problem is the colder it is, the harder it is to find heat, this is what causes most heat pumps to take efficiency nose dives in sub freezing temps. This is why most will have a resistive strip heater as a backup, this is usually where the expensive part comes, but now some of the more efficient heatpumps can get usable heat out of -11F temps.
A heat pump requires heat and cold transfer in two different locations (usually inside and outside of the house) you can't have it in the same room, even if you vent it off. Heat pumps are MORE efficient in cold weather because of the necessary heat transfer. Standard heating units and A/C are less efficient in cold weather, not heat pumps, yes they are very similar, but not the same. If it were a real heat pump, it should have done very well in that weather. The issue is, it's not a heat pump, it's a space heater, and a space heater can only procude 3.413 BTUs per watt.
@@DoctorKnox they factually don’t perform better when it’s cold. Lower the temp harder it is to get heat, harder the system needs to work to get less return. Results in more defrosts and more backup heat. The baby portable unit is a heat pump.
I don't understand the 2 tube thing. So one pulls from outside, and the other exhausts hot air. Wouldn't it be better to pull in the air from inside the house/room that is going to be probably 10-20 degrees cooler than the outside air?
It’s a heat pump. They’re all basically useless at heating when the outside air goes below freezing. The fact that it’s even putting out 60° air without an auxiliary coil (which is what your home unit you referenced is doing) is pretty remarkable.
This is not true at all. Many units can function All the way down to 17°F without struggling. They just become less efficient at those cold temperatures because they have to go through a Defrost cycle
Mine keeps making a loud squeal when turned on. Sounds like a belt slipping. Haven't been able to find any information about it, or any manuals showing how to open it up to find out what is squealing. Any ideas?
You know I’m glad there are TH-camrs like Tyler. How can anyone trust REVIEWS on any products? And he takes it deeper by showing truth and the actual failures of these companies. It’s truly disgusting how they get away with junk. Thank You Tyler!
The math is easy. Heat pumps don't create the heat like a space heater does. They move it from one place to another. Some can move upwards of 2.5 times as much energy (in the form of heat) as they take to operate. So basically, for ever watt they consume they can move 2.5 watts of heat.
Heat pumps will really only run and “work “ down to about 36 outside and this is on full size residential high efficient systems. So 20 out side is way to cold
This is just my opinion. I feel how it is set up is the correct way but it is too cold outside. This unit basically puts the outdoor and indoor unit together if you compare it to a regular heat pump that has half the unit outside and the other inside on your wall or part of your furnace. The hoses venting outside are keeping what would be the outdoor part of the unit outside. If you disconnect the intake you will just be throwing your heated air back outdoors through the exhaust and creating negative pressure. Now your unit will be pulling cooler air from under the door, around windows, etc.. and be throwing your heated air out. Myself I wouldn't disconnect the intake hose and would set it up just like in the video and like it shows in the instructions. JMO
Now that it's getting warmer can you test the ac side of this unit that's is what I am interested in I never thought it would be much of a heater in the first place that was just a waste of time on ecoflow to ad it to drive up the cost but I want to know how does it cool
There wasn't a big difference in the heating there. You went from 54 up to 65 for an 11 degree change. Then with the space heater you went from 59 up to 72 which was only a 13 degree change. I know if you only look at the max temp number it seems like a big difference but you were really only testing how much change they could make in a 1 hour period and that was actually fairly close. If you wanted to look at max numbers then let them each run for several hours to see just how hot they can make the room.
I think it is more intended for environments that dont get below like 50, thats not a comfortable temperature to sleep at for some people so they would appreciate being able to get like 72 out of 50 degree ambient, Its not really intended for environments like ours that actually get cold
Thumbs up if Tyler didn't read the instructions....again.
Of course he didn't. He did or did not do something and it's running improperly.
Yeah probably
i believe on heat your not supposed to use the tubes out the window but I could be wrong
@ 6:57 it looks like it is in A/C mode (snowflake symbol) above the set point temp at the top but when he cuts back the light is pulsating orange which should indicate heat mode so I am not sure.
Wave 2 manual: cdn.solarpowersupply.eu/files/(EN)%20Manual%20Ecoflow%20wave2-20230419.pdf
The only theory I can come up with is the hose is a tight L behind the curtain and it throttles it which could explain the lower Wattage with the hose connected? Heat Pumps do work even in negative degrees Fahrenheit
I kinda agree with you, but I feel like for the price he paid for it himself without it being sent to him/with a sponsor, he probably read the instructions. Nobody would actually do that and play dumb when they're playing with $2000 basically.
But then again we're talking about Tyler here...
700 for the battery is ridiculous.
I agree
But try $80,000 to replace the batteries on a 4 year old EV
Yes but it is a full battery station not just a battery pack for the ac unit
@@richardparmenter188🙄🥱
Depends how big the battery is 🤦🏻♂️😂😂😂
Please say you're going to return this so you can have that money to spend on more random things you've found on Amazon.
If only you knew his profit from having 2 channels lol.. he could burn this and get more pleasure than deal with returning it
@@AverageReviewsYTfr. He’s gonna make way more off this video than what the thing costs.
@@RookzNah 300k views is about $1000
@@danthemathman1768have you not considered brand/ad deals, like has done with manscaped and the food delivery services in the past?
He'll just write it off as a business expense
I paid $350 for my Frigidaire portable AC and it’s 14000 btu. It’s amazing in the summer in Las Vegas
Can you tell me more info on your unit?
This video is pretty much proof that Tyler's "dummy act" is just that...an act. If he can spit out heat exchange numbers like that, I guarantee you he can pronounce zucchini, merlot, chardonnay and filet mignon.
Keep telling yourself that😂
its supposed to be a joke, you're not supposed to believe it, we all love a good troll
We been known this, he does it since people comment about it which boosts his videos further into the algorithm. Big brain 200 iq move
Came here to say that
oh and that a juicer is for food
I am glad someone finally tested it without the intake hose on video. Just as I thought, it heats better without it at cold temps. It also helps to insulate those hoses. That is a lot for an AC and I would not be willing to pay that for it. I would save a bunch and just get a window unit.
The website does list the lowest operating temperature as 41°F. Which is still useful in certain places (Where I live it only gets to freezing a few times a year but is 40s-50s most of the time), but definitely not in harsher climates. There are cold weather heat pumps that can operate well under freezing temperatures but idk what they do to make them capable of that.
Very glad you clarified about not sponsored etc. I had flashbacks for a moment and nearly clicked away.. 😂
Better to pull a vacuum when it's that cold because it can keep reheating the already warmer air until it gets very hot
Thumbs up for being honest I almost instantly click off a video if they are sponsored by the company. You know how many videos review eco flow products that are bought out from them vs not paid reviews is crazy! Keep up the great work!!!!
Tyler, I love you bro but sometimes I think you mess up on your experiments.. 😅
I’m relatively certain that the hoses are for the AC function side of things. Why would you pull in 20 degree air from outside to heat and warm the indoors?
They are for the AC yes. A traditional heat pump uses refrigerant to move BTUs in or out of spaces. You can literally make your own version of this thing by getting a 150 dollar window unit and just flipping it around in the window lol. Or a portable unit; duct tape some cheap insulated tubing to the intake and the supply air side and leave the vent tube for the hot side off.
@nevernever2002 you mean for 47 years and I could have just done this.
Yeah since when does a heater need to be hooked up outside. Keep it in the room and all heat is in the room. He is sending heat outside lol. The hoses only need to be connected outside when you are trying to cool the room like every other AC.
@@nevernever2002 Sure you could flip a window unit around if you want all the humidity from outside to be dripped all over your floor. AC units not only remove heat but they remove water from the air.
500watts is 1706 watts. Period. There's no way to get more BTUs out of electric heat. It just isn't possible.
Thanks for (financially) taking one for the team once again.❤
Thank you for taking one for the team! I hope this video goes out to a lot of people so they don't waste their money.
The reason for it using less energy with the rear inatke out the window, is down to the lower temperatures decreasing the suction pressure of the compressor which means it requires less power to "compress". As soon as the inatke is room temperature, the pressures starts to increase, it becomes harder to compress and will increase power consumption👍
I came to the comments hoping I wasn't the only one that understands HVAC! You have slightly restored my faith in humanity. To be honest I was sad to see Tyler obviously researched BTU but didn't do the same for heat pumps and was so confident in the limited understanding he had. I'm not bad mouthing him, I understand we and he can't be experts on everything. I still love the channel and will continue to watch but I was genuinely excited for this video and sadly let down by he's presentation.
That's exactly what I was going to say in addition to the higher discharge pressure with a warmer inlet air temperature. AC units behave the same way drawing more power as either the inside or the outside air temperature increases for the same reason.
Inverter driven systems are a little different because they may run the compressor at less than full speed in heat mode when the outside temperature is higher and then run the compressor faster as the outside temperature drops to maintain (or at least try to maintain) the setpoint.
I hope he sees our comments and either edits the video or makes another addressing theses things.
@@eyebrows4 yes very true, although i did have to search up what a btu even was. I'm british as well🤣...
Well, inverter systems are more benefical energy wise as well. While being able to maintain a tighter differential, they dont have to kick in and out on full power all the time. They'll just hum away using next to no power.
I did find the companys heat output calculations strange though, but thinking about it a little more. In the video, the heat energy thats being added to the room is also being used as the inlet air to boil off refrigerant, and then exhaust outside. So i guess the figures would match up in perfect conditions🤔
For heating purpose and the unit is inside, it is recommended to use only the exhaust pipe going outside.
Literally was about to put a comment along the lines of "heat pumps are more efficient" when you went right on and acknowledged it yourself lol... dammit Tyler, with your Jalapenos and electric hammers and whatnots
And his kwazadillas... seriously, Tyler...
I even wrote the whole thing out and then pressed play and he said it... smh
Heatpumps draw heat energy from the environment and this process uses energy not the conversion of electrical energy to heat. So its actually quite realistic to get about 3 times the energy you put in out in heat, because all the pump does is "concentrate" the heat in a smaller volume of air so to speak.
To manage that however the thing needed to draw that heat out of the outside air and put it into some air inside and afterwards geting the air back out again. That means you need 2! hoses to the outside, intake and outtake not just one. You either let the thing draw heat from the inside or blew the cooled air to put outside right back in. For having next to zero effect...
Sorry but what?
@@thepatternforms859 How heatpumps work. Do you need it with pictures?
Im working on a build for a plug in heater furnace box. It has a heat exchanger built in and a filter you can change. The heater runs on a thermostat plug and the fresh air fans run 24/7. Brings in fresh air, exchanges it across the exit air and is heated before being fan forced and directed to the floor. I hope to make a prototype soon and begin testing. 👍 I also have a cool idea I’m way too busy to even look at where you take a small iron stove and make it so you can burn multiple fuels. Attachments to burn propane, diesel, oil, wood, pellets etc. all you gotta do is let it cool down and change the attached pieces.
I have this and I already had an anker solix power bank with solar panels. Just letting everyone know the solix panels do charge the eco flow as well and it works fine with the anker products. You don’t have to buy the eco flow products to go with it
I love that you didn’t accept a free unit. Ecoflow literally sends free product to everyone… good job keeping it real!! They would be drooling at the mouth to send you free stuff…
Straight from the first page of the manual: Ambient Temperature for Operation: 41F - 122F... Tell me you didn't read the manual without telling me you didn't read the manual
I watch every damn video, love em all brother, you have some amazing content
Omg I heard heat pumps and had Technology Connections flashbacks😅
Same 😂
He also hated portable AC units so this is a twofer
The other thing about the dual hoses for A/C is, the intake will just be sucking the exhaust air... not "cool" outside air because the 2 hoses are right next to each other in the window. Maybe if you use 2 different windows it will work.
My intake host is right at outside temperature, so I don't think they cross contaminate that much.
You would think that just every once in a while you would read the directions.
Duh ! IT'S A HEAT PUMP. The instructions say not use the exterior heat exchanger air inlet if below 40 deg F. Efficiency drops to the point it is nearly non-functional. Just use interior air to supply the heat exchanger and only connect the exhaust hose outside. Just have to address the negative air pressure with some other conditioned air source. Then it will work fine (within its design limitations).......
I have a feeling he watches technology connections.
I think everyone here is watching technology connections, auto shenanigans, tylertube, post 10 etc... this is the web we caught ourselves in on youtube 😂
Really though.
Lol thinking the same thing
@@mason6300out of the people you listed here I only watch Tyler tube and technology connections. Never heard of the other two
You dissing TC?
Never use outside air . Only plus to this is it’s not sticking out when stealth camping . But not sure its worth $1000 more than a inverter window unit
Disconnect both hoses for heat, the hose directs the heat outside during ac use?
No. You must connect at a minimum the exhaust hose. Both hoses for best performance
They tested that thing in all kinds of temps. The best it got for 1 sec out of all that testing time is probably the numbers they used, but then they doubled it arbitrarily. I was thinking about one of these. I'm so glad I saw this 1st!
The reason why it can get more BTUs than the capacity of the battery is because it is most likely a heat pump. They can get up to 5x the efficiency of a regular resistive heater because it is just transferring the existing energy in the environment instead of adding additional energy. Edit: Probably the reason why the heater didn't work in the first part was because it wasn't vented. If it is a heat pump it will blow hot air out the front and cold air out the back creating an environment that is the same as what you started with. If you can vent the waste air to the outside you would get better results.
You draw in air from the room and vent the exhaust
I have a heat pump bc I am in the south in the states but it's been down to 28 a few nights the past two winters and not once did my furnace run stage 1 and 2 which is heat pump with heat strips. Heat pumps run a lot better these days than older heat pumps.
For heating, I get the impression this product is more for camping trips in November, not for 20 degree winter days. If it gets a little chilly at night, this can bring it up to comfortable. But not for winter time
It must be at least 40 degrees for the unit to function as a heater but they fail to mention that.
It's on page 3 of the manual and the bottom of the page when you go to buy it. It's not hidden in any way.
The heat pump in your garage has an electric back up, and that is what’s putting out 120 degrees. Heat pumps alone will only put out about 80 degrees as long as the outside temp is above 32 degrees. 5 years HVAC experience for anyone wondering plus 2 years trade school.
no heat strips, its a 3 ton mini split
I bought a refurbished one and never had a problem and way cheaper.
Got mine off there Ebay store.
On the display it will tell you the temperature of the air comes out also.
Max is fan speed that is to fast for heat.
Never had a problem either with refurb ecoflow anything. They usually have sales going on.
Same here. Only issue I have is I wish the unit would be less noisy especially in heating mode
i think you're supposed to have a small camp fire outside and use the ducts to pull in that heated air... if you have ppl that spent $1200 for this then they'll believe that line to justify that they didn't get scammed...
So...he didn't read the directions. NO heating system is going to be able to heat 20 degree air to 70 degrees in one go. The whole point is recirculating the air. So every pass through the machine, it is heating slightly warmer air. Air conditioners do the same thing. They RECIRCULATE the air. They don't take the 90 degree outside air and magically cool it through the freon coils in one pass.
The air that's circulating outside is separate from the inside air.
Eh...actually, most heat pumps and air conditioners can. My central system heat pump is almost 20 years old and has a 28-33F degree temperature drop across the inside coil in cooling, 35-40F rise in temperature in heating mode. I can vouch for 20F as the coldest we ever had here was 24F, but at 24F it was able to maintain 72F inside.
I would agree with you, however you said heating system… a 400,000 btu propane furnace can absolutely heat a 4000 sq foot shop to “un-livable” in no time lol
That’s not how it works. It’s physics and pressure. Air, however hot, can be compressed enough to lower the kinetic energy and slow the air molecules, cooking the air. All air conditioning systems like this operate on these fundamental principles, and which is why they have Freon and compression systems
We are thank full for you Tyler for protecting us from over priced JUNK! Thank You!
I thought I heard you say this is a heat pump, is that right?
If so, heat pumps heat very slowly. It takes time to get a room up to temp and the heat
you feel from the unit feels cool, but they can heat a room.
In a heat pump heated home, the amount of air flow makes a huge difference in the temperature
change.
When Mine was installed, they told me to open all the air vents, because the more air flow you
have, the better it can heat your space.
Unless a heat pump is specifically rated for winter use, it's at most going to be good for a cool spring night. As soon as the temperature outside dips below 32 F, their efficiency plummets. I have one rated for 0 F, but it starts struggling well above that. It's still enough to heat my room, but I can tell that it couldn't handle much more. It probably doesn't help that my room isn't that well insulated either.
Also yeah, a COP of 3 is pretty standard. A heat pump that draws 500W and has a COP of 3, should be putting out about 1500W of heat. It's not creating energy out of nothing, it's moving the energy from the outside air into the room.
Google "are heat pumps good in cold weather". Heats pumps are MORE efficient at heating when it's cold. That's because they require cold when transferring heat. Mostpeople get this confused because they think you can't get cold from heat and heat from cold, but that's exactly what heat pumps do. This thing isn't a heat pump, there's no external condenser unit, it's doing the condensing right where it's trying to heat/cool. It's just a bad space heater and a portable A/C.
It don’t get cold here. But it works fine in the 30’s here
Not Tyler coming out with some pure BTU-watt knowledge.
Just turned the heat in mine on. 66° room air it’s blowing out 100.8° air. It’s not really cold out.
But when it was in the mid 30’s outside its was still able to put out atleast 20° delta in temp difference.
I believe ecoflow uses a not so low number for outside temp before it’s not as efficient. But it definitely worked when it got in the 30’s.
The AC part in the upper 80’s an humid as hell. Depending just like the delta on heat. The fan speed. On low it’s about a 20° degree delta. Speed two it’s like 16-17 speed 3 is like 15-16 and turbo is like 14-15° difference.
These things are made for off grid/power out and to be able to run off of battery banks aside from the attachable one. A not be a huge energy draw.
I forget the square footage they claim but these things are for tent sized areas. Not home sized rooms and big duel rear axle rv’s ect.
So it it don’t work for someone. They don’t know how to work with its limitations and maybe do different things to capitalize on its ability.
Hey mate cooling/heating capacity in aircon/refrig is measured differently. You need input capacity kW. It's a totally different calculation.
Love the channel bro
You didnt try to run it without the tubes. Only thing you missed. I bet it works better. Do a video no.2
That's not how this works
@@NoZenithwell if the tube is pulling in air colder than 40F from outside then the heater won’t work. So he needs to only use one tube (exhaust) and allow the machine to use the 50F degree air already in the room then it would heat the room up
@thepatternforms859 I don't know if that's got what this guy was talking about or not. But running it with no tubes would be doing almost nothing because it would be dumping All the cold air right back in the room too. I've seen people misunderstanding the unit because the advertising isn't all that clear and they don't have the mindset to understand this isn't a resistive space heater.
5,100 BTU for $1,200 is insane....
Ok but the fact it does all the things he mentioned is why
@@fluffehgamer4712They’re saying it’s over priced. $1,200 is not justifiable for a 5,100 BTU heater.
@fluffehgamer4712 I don't care if it can file my taxes for me. If I'm buying it for its main purpose of heating and cooling than it better be good at that.
10 times the cost of a 5,000 BTU window shaker. A 10,000 BTU inverter portable AC at Costco is $350.
This thing is awesome in a small space like tent or vehicle. I found that it is recycling the air sucked through the front. So at initial heating/cooling of your space if you feed it cold/hot air it will will help it get your space to your temp way faster, then you can stop feeding the air and it will do fine maintaining the space temp.
Did you watch the video? It failed to heat the room. After 1 hour it was 1 degree cooler
The measurement of BTUs is mote applicable to how much energy is transferred from the intake air to the output air. If you are taking 20deg air and heating it to 60deg that is a considerable heat input. Tyler is being overly simplistic. Not reading the manual to find out the operating parameters of the device is also dodgy in my opinion...
At least he tried it with the more logical approach of using one hose to exhaust the cold air. At least you would be able to sit in front of the unit in your camper and feel warmer... These are not really "space heaters". They are small portable units to make small spaces more comfortable.
We are thinking about buying one, but understand its limitations. The advantage for us is that ONE device will do 2 things, which is a space and cost saving. We have a slide on camper shell that goes on a tray top 4WD.
Can almost guarantee USER ERROR
I just picked up the ac, extra battery and alternator charger for 1399. 1299 for just the unit is insane.
This is main channel material
Why would it need cold air from outside if it is heating up the air from inside? Sounds like you are just supposed to keep the hose inside so that it can keep circulating inside air.
But if your using it in a tent or a small building that is not insulated you would get the same results as he did with the tubes out the window so iam glade he did it that way even though you would get more heat from not useing the tubes
In heat mode, the exhaust is cold air. He's sending the cold exhaust outside.
@@kalin666no it’s not
@@raycenewswanger4974If it is a proper heat pump, yes it is. That's how they work, they move energy around (heat = energy) look up heat pumps real ones. Technology connections makes a great video on how they work.
If it is however just a resistive heater it's probably trash, but Tyler isn't exactly known for his experimental rigor there is a room size and insulation ratio that will simply prevent a heat pump of this size from doing it's job. And there is a temperature outside where it will simply not be possible for it to extract latent heat from the air outside. (Just before freezing is basically when they fall off a cliff and he clearly states it is below freezing outside)
@@kalin666who told you that?? Did you just make that up?
Heat pumps lose efficiency once outside temps fall below 40 degrees F down to 25 degrees F. Below 25 degrees F, they become ineffective as there is not enough residual heat in the air for it to pull, hence why when installing a heat pump, the tech will install an auxiliary heater indoors in order to heat the space once temps become too low. There is an actual thermal switch in the external heat pump that will switch the unit over to aux heat once temps fall below the threshold. Auxiliary Heat will turn on automatically when heat can no longer efficiently transfer heat from the outside air to the heat pump.
Heat pumps don't create any heat. They move heat found in the environment, thermal energy already there. They expend energy moving the heat. I am curious as to the volume of the room and insulation rating. That would be useful information
It's only rated down to 41*, that's why it didn't work when the temp was 20*. Your heat pump in your garage heats at that 20* because it also has a heating element in it which the wave 2 doesn't have. This is more a fair weather heat/ac device. Think, you want to just warm up or cool down a room that may have bad airflow from your normal HVAC system or just to warm up or cool down a tent. It's not an end all be all device even though they sort of claim it is.
Tyler you need to watch technology connections talk about the refrigeration cycle!
Not defending the product but you don't need ventilation to the outside for an electric space heater. I believe using the heating option without ventilation to the outside would work way better. With a.c. you need the ventilation to transfer the heat out of the house.
learn how heat pumps work
its getting hotter each passing yr....& when pwr is dwn from weather...alot of old ppl dealing w/the humidty....which could turn out 2b dangerous for em....& ppl dont have the money to blow on stuff that dont wrk....when they rlly need something like this but greed gets n the way of making something that could of been a great product....ur vid is a must...cuz....stuff like this is a necessity now....but it needs to rlly wrk...
You’d think for 1200 bucks they could put a decent modern display on it
Heat pumps are limited by the pumped fluids' ability to evaporate/condense. If the ambient air is below the evaporation temperature of the fluid then the heat cycle will be unable to operate and you will just be pumping liquid at low pressures which is bad for a compressor pump.
I bet the reason that the power level goes up is because as the evaporator warms up above the vaporization point of the fluid it quickly turns to gas increasing the pressure which in turn increases the pumping resistance that the unit sees.
I would try running it on ac mode with the pipes running from the front out the window because the heat that comes of the back gets toasty give it a shot we use our portable air conditioning units to help heat our kitchen in the winter
Look at the way your central air system works pulls air Though the return in the house blowes air out the supply in the house. Cycles the same air. So what your doing venting both ways is pulling in cold air blowing out your warm air.
Bro you do understand that it's basically an air conditioner that works in Reverse right the only way for it to properly work it's for you to keep the inside air and keep recirculating that and as far as bringing it up to 70° or 68° at 500 w that's one third of what a space heater would use which is excellent not to mention you were trying to eat a room bigger than it was capable of and it still did it
Heat pumps start losing efficiency at 35 degrees. Exponentially under that. Your heat pump in your garage should have resistive heating elements as well. Its probably using 1 or all of them to supplement during cold weather outside
How is a heater suppose to work if you have two hoses outside and one pulls in air as you say that defeats the purpose of heating
I think it pulls in air through one hose; sucks the heat out of it and concentrates it to exchange with the air flow going through it in your room, and spits out that now-cooler outside air through the other outside hose. The cold outside air doesn't get into the room (principally).
With so many hoses it does get a bit confusing. :)
The theory is good - but this particular unit is hyped-up a bit from the looks of it and isn't the most efficient type and isn't rated for the outside temperature tested.
I'd love to have a 500W similarly dimensioned device with those hose attachments that was rated for those temperatures and that could run continuously, and was good for A/C up to at least 104. I'm not sure they're available anywhere. :(
My interest in this was piqued by those additional hose attachments ... for a moment I was fooled into thinking this might be a contender. :)
nb: for more extreme temperatures and such small amounts of power as 500W, I suppose seeing uninsulated hoses are a red flag lol. With large deltas between temperatures, then all that surface area presented by long hoses sitting between the big temperature difference is going to introduce some considerable efficiency loss. Those hoses effectively become something of a heat exchanger. You can buy similar hoses but with insulated cladding that will surely make some significant positive difference to the efficiency under those circumstances.
Your reviews are always the most honest lol
Maybe you could try it in a tent? I feel like that is a more appropriate use case?
Why do you have the AC tube on for heat mode. You don't need to vent out hot air if you're trying to hear.
That's not exactly how Heat pumps work.
Heat pumps have reversing valves that change the direction of refrigerant compared to a regular AC system.
Think of a Heat pump turning the inside AC coil into the outdoor coil and vice versa, depending on the heating/cooling load.
So, the exhaust tube Tyler was using was blowing cold air outside.
When it’s in heat mode, it’s reversed. The tube going to the outside would be exhausting colder air after heat has been taken out of it
Question...Since this is electric, why not remove the exhaust hose? Would that not also help with the heat and then put it on when you turn it to the A/C?
Sometimes idek what tyler is talking about, I just be watching and learning😂
Regarding the heatpump, older units worked good only down to about 37 degrees. Although this is a new unit, it's probably operating at the same efficiency. Point being, it's a cheap unit with horrible efficiency. Newer heat pumps can go down to 20 degrees with little efficiency loss. And if you want to get really fancy, some inverter drive units can utilize heat pump mode into sub 0 temps!
19:07 - With air source heat pumps this phenomenon is called COP degradation. This occurs when the temperature difference between outdoors and indoors decreases it becomes harder for the heat pump to extract heat from the outside air. To compensate for this the unit has to work harder, increasing the energy input to maintain the same heating capacity.
I am not implying this particular AC/heat pump is efficient or perfect. The input power increase as the heat source temperature rises is normal for any air source heat pump.
I am taking a thermodynamics class right now and I am tempted to run the numbers...
Please do :)
There are plenty of portable A/C's that have intake and exhaust hoses too
Thanks for the great video! I think from your video, it'll struggle to heat a room, however if you attach the exhaust tube inside your sleeping bag or duvet it's going to be rather warm? So really this is a personal heater / cooler?
Did you not test the AC part?
Loved the skepticism, actually felt like the most well thought out deduction I've heard tyler say in a long time of watching.
The beauty of heatpumps is they aren't creating the heat, they are just moving it. This results in something like 300% efficiency in regards to heat produced. Which funny enough matches that 1/3rd the power comment.
The problem is the colder it is, the harder it is to find heat, this is what causes most heat pumps to take efficiency nose dives in sub freezing temps. This is why most will have a resistive strip heater as a backup, this is usually where the expensive part comes, but now some of the more efficient heatpumps can get usable heat out of -11F temps.
A heat pump requires heat and cold transfer in two different locations (usually inside and outside of the house) you can't have it in the same room, even if you vent it off. Heat pumps are MORE efficient in cold weather because of the necessary heat transfer. Standard heating units and A/C are less efficient in cold weather, not heat pumps, yes they are very similar, but not the same. If it were a real heat pump, it should have done very well in that weather. The issue is, it's not a heat pump, it's a space heater, and a space heater can only procude 3.413 BTUs per watt.
@@DoctorKnox they factually don’t perform better when it’s cold. Lower the temp harder it is to get heat, harder the system needs to work to get less return. Results in more defrosts and more backup heat. The baby portable unit is a heat pump.
I don't understand the 2 tube thing. So one pulls from outside, and the other exhausts hot air. Wouldn't it be better to pull in the air from inside the house/room that is going to be probably 10-20 degrees cooler than the outside air?
I’d love to see you do a video on Freeman/Numax tools. I work for a company that sells them but I haven’t really heard good things😂
It’s a heat pump. They’re all basically useless at heating when the outside air goes below freezing. The fact that it’s even putting out 60° air without an auxiliary coil (which is what your home unit you referenced is doing) is pretty remarkable.
This is not true at all. Many units can function All the way down to 17°F without struggling. They just become less efficient at those cold temperatures because they have to go through a Defrost cycle
The most efficient thing to do is just to put out a sweater and some warm socks and call it a day.😊
Mine keeps making a loud squeal when turned on. Sounds like a belt slipping. Haven't been able to find any information about it, or any manuals showing how to open it up to find out what is squealing. Any ideas?
You know I’m glad there are TH-camrs like Tyler. How can anyone trust REVIEWS on any products? And he takes it deeper by showing truth and the actual failures of these companies. It’s truly disgusting how they get away with junk.
Thank You Tyler!
The math is easy. Heat pumps don't create the heat like a space heater does. They move it from one place to another. Some can move upwards of 2.5 times as much energy (in the form of heat) as they take to operate. So basically, for ever watt they consume they can move 2.5 watts of heat.
I've heard of people using this for tents and like small trailers for camping.
I'm sure someone else has said it, but there ARE 2-tube "portable AC units" though they are uncommon
Heat pumps will really only run and “work “ down to about 36 outside and this is on full size residential high efficient systems. So 20 out side is way to cold
This is just my opinion.
I feel how it is set up is the correct way but it is too cold outside.
This unit basically puts the outdoor and indoor unit together if you compare it to a regular heat pump that has half the unit outside and the other inside on your wall or part of your furnace. The hoses venting outside are keeping what would be the outdoor part of the unit outside. If you disconnect the intake you will just be throwing your heated air back outdoors through the exhaust and creating negative pressure. Now your unit will be pulling cooler air from under the door, around windows, etc.. and be throwing your heated air out. Myself I wouldn't disconnect the intake hose and would set it up just like in the video and like it shows in the instructions. JMO
2:33 He said hes just not buying it, but he bought it. It's sitting right there on the table.
No really 😂 I have eyes
Keep it up man
Now that it's getting warmer can you test the ac side of this unit that's is what I am interested in I never thought it would be much of a heater in the first place that was just a waste of time on ecoflow to ad it to drive up the cost but I want to know how does it cool
There wasn't a big difference in the heating there. You went from 54 up to 65 for an 11 degree change. Then with the space heater you went from 59 up to 72 which was only a 13 degree change. I know if you only look at the max temp number it seems like a big difference but you were really only testing how much change they could make in a 1 hour period and that was actually fairly close. If you wanted to look at max numbers then let them each run for several hours to see just how hot they can make the room.
you should do another survival challenge video, super cool stuff! keep it up man!
I think it is more intended for environments that dont get below like 50, thats not a comfortable temperature to sleep at for some people so they would appreciate being able to get like 72 out of 50 degree ambient, Its not really intended for environments like ours that actually get cold
Most math I've eeeeeever seen him do 😂
Just when I was starting to think he was a bit special.
"I can't really see what I'm touching." That's what she said. 😅Eco Flow means it's economical for them to pump money out of suckers.
Appreciate the honesty but i think its designed for small rooms and vans
Please make your video possible to save to lists. I would really like to go back to this one later.
Mine worked fine for about 2 months and now it will not charge from a/c. They have a grate warranty on paper but so far in use it dose not work well.
I mean, do you think you’re better off going with some type of propane? Heater for the cabin or do you think I should go with something like this?
Keep up the good work! Love your videos