I learned on these meters in high school in the early 90s. We had an educational version with a clear back. When a student would blow one up it would fill up with smoke, and our instructor would laugh at us, then make us open it up and fix it. It took me a long time to get used to using digital meters, because the response time was so much longer on the early ones. With the 260 you could tell by how fast the needle swung if you were in the right range, and it was also nice for checking capacitors.
Just recently found a simpson model multimeter in my long since deceased grandfather's closet. I look forward to fixing and using it to fix my old 80s motorcycle.
Thanks for the clarification on the models :). I used one of these when I was in the U.S.A.F. working on HF radios in Japan and still need to acquire one. Now I know that I need a 6P. I bought a Fluke 77 series II DMM, Weller variable temperature soldering iron and Panduit GS2B cable tie gun after I got out. When you "raise the bar" with high quality tools, it's hard to go back to low quality stuff...
Thank you very much for posting these vids with the analog Simpson meters. You inspired me, and I just received a Model 260 Series 6 today (from that massive auction site). Came w/factory leads, and new batteries. Checked my light meter batteries.....well within range. Next, a microscope light transformer.....ah-ha, I can new see, on the meter, that someone has goofed up while reattaching the voltage adjustment dial. What a relief. A new transformer would cost 2x the meter. Many thx!!
haha i just happen to own a simpson model 260 series 7p cant remember where i got the thing but i had it for a looooong time and it still works like new !! great piece of equipment
Of course I don't use analogs much anymore for troubleshooting/repairs. I have since sold that 6P but still have a 270 Series 2 and a Bach-Simpson 635 which is real handy because it will do AC current. Both of those are on Simpson260DOTcom as guest meters as well. I also like the Japanese built Micronta meters believe it or not. The 22-205 and 22-152 are really good meters. Both 100kOhm per volt. Don't like their Korean stuff, the range doublers etc. Thanks for watching!
The output jack is for measuring AC voltage in the presence of DC voltage. Like signal voltage at the plate of a tube, or audio at the output of a capacitor-coupled amplifier, before the blocking cap.
Mark, I owned over 60 Simpson meters at one time, talking about a Simpson meter junkie..haha (I have a couple featured on Simpson260, and I can tell you that my 2 favorite models are the 260 AFP (Government model), and the Simpson 260-6P, which are identical. I agree with you and am glad to have gotten a mint condition 260-6P. I got it off ebay for about $70.00. I've had 3 160's and had no luck with them, too long to explain. For a quick trend cheap analog I carry a Sunwa YX-360 Great review!
Not too many reasons for this. Bad battery, poor connection to battery somehow (very common). Damaged Rx1 resistor (around 10 to 12 ohms, probably). Poor condition test leads maybe, maybe bad fuse connection. You can remove the battery, short the battery terminals together and use another meter to measure resistance of your test leads through the whole meter circuit. That might give a clue. Thanks for watching! Hope to post something new soon.
Depends on how often you use it. I worry about corrosion also, but I do keep one or two analog multimeters with batteries installed for quick resistance checks and to "pop" the occasional speaker or small motor. Can't do that with a digital multimeter as they are normally limited to 1 milliamp max current on the resistance function. Certainly if you plan to store the meter for over 6 months I would recommend removing the batteries.
Had to research this one. They are described as "6-32" screws, that is size 6, thread count 32. They are 1 and 3/8 inch long with fairly small flat blade drive heads. I'm pretty sure that is what the 6P and the regular bakelite models use. My Bach-Simpson 635 uses the same thread pitch but only 7/8" long.
@kodibass The Simpsons are rugged electrically but will still break with a hard drop. I recommend the 6P because it uses regular test leads.They come up on eBay all the time pretty cheap. Any after the series 2 have varistor protection for the movement and employ fuses also. My advice on avoiding burnout is not to ever leave the meter set to a current or resistance range (especially Rx1). Most analogs have a diode or varistor across the meter coil at least.
The current typically ranges from 0.3~1A when the motors are loaded or Idle, but the startup current spike is is at least 5A but no more than 8A otherwise the Power source Fuse would blow. The PowerSupply to most of the motors is DC unregulated and will exceed 150v when unloaded. A 1K load across it brings it back down to 18v though. While the motors run loaded (1A) the supply drops down to around 13-14v. A New Fluke 87V new is about the same price as most New Simpson 260 models.
On the Series 6 set the switch to 10mA and you see under that there is an A. Connect the test leads from -10A to10A jacks which are in that row of four jacks just below the meter face. DC current only on this model, not AC current. For AC current you would need a 265, a 635, or an AC current adaptor fitted to the 260.
@xyloeye I haven't seen this but I would suggest that if it works correctly on voltage ranges, the Rx1 resistor is probably low in value or the adjustment potentiometer is bad. That resistor is usually around 10 to 15 ohms, about the same as the mid-scale reading on the meter when using Rx1.
I would say it's pretty normal to have to hold the leads tightly together to zero the meter for resistance. More so for this analog model in fact because of the higher test current. Had not thought of that before, but I do think it could be significant. Some leads are better than others also. Cheap Chinese leads often behave erratically when doing continuity tests for example.
Normally to measure one volt or so you would use the 2.5 volt scale and just read somewhere in the middle, or connect the positive lead to the dedicated 1 volt jack and read full scale. Since the meter is 20,000 ohms/volt the total impedance of the meter is only 20,000 ohms using that jack.
I'm sure the Simpson is good and all, but it really depends on what you are doing. Very high current pretty much requires a clamp meter or a dedicated current shunt to put your (probably AC) meter across. The Fluke 87V has a very useful low pass filter designed for motor drive circuits. In combination with the analog bar graph, might be a really good choice. Cheaper than the Simpson, too, I think.
Oh ok now I get it, I see a 1 V below the 2.5V range setting. So then plug positive lead to the +1V and read the 0-10 V black DC mark/range and divide it by 10. That makes sense. (Now I won't look like a newbie if I ever cross an analog meter)
@kodibass Hi. Well, motor coils and condensers are a bit out of my field. Seems like the analog meters would be good for some stuff. The are some "automotive" digital meters being sold these days, a Fluke 88 or similar. Might want to check the features on one of those.
Don't have a 160 and don't really plan to get one any time soon; seems like they always get bid up too high on eBay. More and more just use the analogs for quick checks and trending. Really need to be selling a few, in fact.
WOW, I have never seen or used an analog meter in my physics lab. So by observation it seems that if the knob is switched to 2.5V, you read the DC 250V scale and divide it by 100. So if you want to measure between 0-1.0 V you have switch the knob to the 10V and get the reading from the DC 10V scale and divide it by 10.
There are versions with mirrored scales. The 260-6MP would be the same as yours with the mirror added. The tilt handle helps in this regard - accuracy does not suffer much when used this way. Can't tilt AVO's, not really anyway...
I like the 260-6P because it uses the regular banana plugs and not those ridiculous inverted types used by the 7 and 8 models. The 5P and military AFP-1 models have a similar protection function as the 6P but unfortunately use that 15 volt battery for the RX10,000 range and for the protection relay. The 6P uses a 9 volt battery for that. There is a nice site called simpson260DOTcom for pictures and info.
Perfect, Your vid answered allot of my questions, So for all around basic shop use I should look for a Simpson 260-6p, for around $50-75 with no corrosion in the battery compartments. I know very little about meters, But need one for checking coils/condensers etc. in vintage outboards, and I was told to get a simpson. So this is the one I will look for, Is there any other info/questions I should ask before purchasing ? Great video & thanks!
great video. im a self professed multimeter junkie as well. I use them all the time I did at work testing copper phone lines with the 8455. As you know the 45 volt battery is not sold and if your interested Ive perfected a perfect 45volt pack...ill probably post a clip soon be good...jimmy
I just bought a 260 ,and I have no Idea what I bought ,I always ask for inside picture,this is the one time I.didn't follow my own rules and I will probably pay for it .always ask the seller for inside picture,don't be afraid to ask the seller questions,also.see if the sellers other stuff they sell a lot of times they have no Idea what they are selling which means you might get it very cheap,like.my heath kit vtvm I got a very good deal,and I worked with the seller,but I got lazy on.my Simpson 260 .that's coming ,I was.sick when I bought it ,A good seller will have good reviews ,and will work with anwer your question ,
This is one reason I don't like VTVM's. You can find appropriate probes on eBay from time to time, but they are often in pretty rough shape. See if you can find some antique radio forum and ask the guys there.
I haven't found much on the Simpson 160 handi VOM in terms of reviews and wondered what you think of it in comparison to the 260?. If you have one maybe you can do a review for us sometime. Thanks for all your help by the way.
after getting an ele associates 15 years ago and moving from missouri back to louisiana i sadly lost my 260 series 3 i had in college and realized my dad has 2 apparently one is mine one is his dads . long story short i found one on ebay for 65$ today just because my digi meter wasnt cutting it for caps and diodes in the microwaves . so now now i have a 6p and 3 . guess you cant have too many nothing compares to quality , and yes the 6p has shiny copper and clean bat tray .
First, thank you for all your brand specific repair videos. I really appreciate your sharing your knowledge of common problems with blown channels, etc. On the Simpson 260, is there a pot that will bring back full scale deflection in the RX1 mode (battery is good)? Thanks again.
I do not have allot of experience with Simpson. My other question would be when I go to zero out the needle for a resistance check i hold the leed ends together and though i feel i'm holding the leeds still the needle tends to be "bouncy" I am not saying i cannot get the needle to hold still at all, but it's not an easy task,...is this normal? and I havbe to hold them still between fingers as opposed to just touching the ends together
You can't buy a new 6P. They have the 9 series, like the 9S and 9SP. I notice they went back to a more conventional banana jack on these, not those stupid inverted types like on the 7 and 8 series. These days, a person normally would use a good digital meter for voltage readings, and you don't need a high end analog for trending etc. Any Micronta will do for that. I had one the other day where .2 volts made the difference. Can't resolve that with most analogs.
i have a simpson 260 series 3 and an rca wv-38a i dont understand why they dont work, i checked and the resistors and diodes etc seem fine that i can test.i figured the rotary switchs could be preventing connections so cleaned those. i was given these two thinking i could make them work so i could have an analog meter in addition to my other test gear. it seems to me if i am correct they should work on all but resistance even without batteries so unless the guage itself happens to be busted in both of them i dont get it, i cant seem to find troubleshooting guidance online. do you know any resources?
Mark, when you describe a 12- volt strike on the circuit in the Rx1 range... what are the typical consequences? smoked movement?? I just picked up a Series 7 that was manufactured in 02 and the movement is dead. Also, are you aware of a movement source other than just purchasing a 'Used Meter" for movement replacement. I happened onto a pristine series 7 off craigslist for a song and would like to get it going.
@@mdzacharias Something got the movement in this one, I put a 10K resistor with movement isolated on the + side of the meter and input a variable voltage from zero... no deflection. I've searched the net for a new movement and have found nothing listed. This meter never seen much use if any, literally like new inside/out. Simpson has nothing listed far as new movements to my surprise. Thanks for the speedy reply, any and all feedback is helpful.
Thanks I have a nice micronta digital, And its great for most stuff, but for testing the small vintage coils / condensers the analogs work better for me, I have seen some simpsons series 6's & 7's on ebay but no reset button like yours, does this mean they are not overload protected or able to be reset? had a china analog meter it worked for what I was using it for until it hit the garage cement floor. so I thought I'd buy something a bit more as you said rugged. Any help appreciated.
I have a 260, and I was just wondering if you make a practice of leaving the battery in place while in storage or remove it between use? I remove my battery but not real sure if that is necessary but i do that to avoid corrosion in trhe battery compartment. What do you do?
I don't want to take your title but so far I have 9 260s, a series 1, 2 series 2s, 2 5Ms, a 6XLP, a 7 and a 7P and a series 8. I think I may need professional help.
I'm down to just two Simpsons now, a Bach-Simpson 635 and a 270 series 2. Developed an irrational liking for Japanese built Micronta meters. Mostly made by Kamoden, like the 22-205A, 22-207, 22-150 etc. Don't really like the Korean stuff, the 22-204's and the like. Yuk.
hey mark...love the vids...was a 31b20 in the army...almost made it through 31e20 school at USASESS but got hurt...my question is why won't my 260-6XLPM calibrate on the Rx1 scale? goes to about 1 ohm...but can't get to zero....
Hi, just picked up a 260 6xlp at an auction today for $7.50 Got home and replaced both the D cell and 9 volt square batteries. Seems to test my 12 volt car batteries and house outlets ok. The D battery was corroded and the negative terminal is in rough shape. Can that piece be bought new or do I have to fabricate?
Hey, does anyone know if the Simpson 260-9SP is any good? I am looking to get an analog multimeter to monitor both AC and DC current/voltage jumping on motor circuits where DMM don't quite cut it.
sanjursan I've often thought about picking up a 160 - haven't because I have bunches of analogs that don't get used enough. The 22.5 battery is another reason I hadn't thought of. Thanks for saving me from myself! :-)
very cool vid!! my electronics teacher gave me a Simpson series 7 and I've been wanting a vintage meter for a very long while and I'm very fortunate to have gotten this one from my teacher. and everything works on it but I need some new test leads for it and I'm not sure where I could get any without having to buy them online. any suggestions? thanks.
+Matthew Blalock Probably only on-line unless you can find a Simpson dealer. Probemaster probably has the. Remember they are special inverted banana plug types for the 260-7 and -8.
Yes, Probemaster makes the goofy inverted banana lead sets... got a set for a NOS, in the original box 7M that popped up on Craigs list (for $30.00!) The meter is pristine... but it's leads had been through the war. Like all PM leads, they are stellar; but are buried fairly deep on their site... you have to look.
I have a model 260 series 3 that seems to have a dead display meter. All internal parts are OK. Other than EBAY taking a chance on a parts only meter, is there a replacement display available elsewhere ?
No place I know of. Occasionally you see a "new old stock" meter movement o eBay. Also, you can contact the seller before buying or bidding; some of them are knowledgeable enough to test the meter or otherwise assure you the meter movement is good.
Thanks Mark, I assumed that would be the case. I have contacted Simpson also to see if they have another updated meter movement that would work in the series 3.
I really like the 6 series though. The last ones of the classic bakelite to use ordinary 4mm banana plugs for the test leads. The 7 and 8 series used those ridiculous inverted probes.
Are these meters meant to be used lying on there backs, I am having an issue with mine, lying flat it works just fine but standing straight up it doesn’t do well at all, the needle doesn’t move correctly
Ok, I recently sold a meter and the guy says to me that the meter is in great condition, when on its back it works no problem, tilted it works slightly less effective but standing upright he says the needle gets stuck about 2/3 of the way, I sold the meter never used, but he wants to exchange it saying it doesn’t work correctly, just wondering, I heard you say that these meters work best lying flat, do you know if these meters work with the same efficiency standing straight up, I’m really trying to determine if the meter may be bad or if he is just not using it correctly
@@kingofoblivion1822 The difference between flat and tilted should only be maybe 5% tops. If the difference is as great as you say it sounds like the meter you sold had an undiagnosed mechanical issue with the meter movement. Sorry.
need some help, i have a 260 series 6p it doesn't seam to work. it was given to me. i put new battery in it. i now i'm not doing something right. can you help.it looks like it's in good shape. looks clean. if you can help
You haven't given me much information. Have you tried for example just setting the meter to a 10 volt DC range and measuring a 9 volt battery? Do you have another (working) multimeter to help troubleshoot this one? Have you any experience in electronics?
Mark Zacharias ok I try that the needle move. The needle was all the way over on the left and move to the right. What are some other tests I can run. No I don’t have another meter.
If I understand you correctly - it sounds like the meter basically works. You should watch a few videos on TH-cam about using multimeters and pay particular attention to those with analog type meters. Always start with the highest range and work down, at least until you know what you are doing. Don't attempt ANY current measurements until you understand the principles - it's very easy to blow up the meter when using the current function.
Also the OHMS function should be used with care. On Rx1 or Rx10 ranges, there are resistors inside which can burn if the meter is connected to a voltage source of say 12 volts or more.
James skippinhopper The series 6 is probably my favorite 260 mainly because it uses a 9 volt battery instead of that string of AA's that always seem to get the corroded terminals in the 3 through 5 series. I also like the 270 series through series 4 and the 625 and Bach-Simpson 635 models. I won't own or use those models like the 7 and 8 when have those stupid inverted input jacks. I need to be able to use regular 4mm ended test leads.
Yeah - the Series 3 through 5 (not 5P) used 1 D cell and 4 AA cells. The 5P and AFP-1 (military 5P) used a D cell and a 15 volt battery, the 6 through 8 uses a D cell and a 9 volt.You can read up on most all of them at Simpson260.com.
Why didn't you measure resistors on the Simpson and compare its accuracy to your Fluke?? Are you afraid to reveal how lousy the Simpson's accuracy is compared to your Fluke?? Fraidy cat!
Ha! You're not wrong, but in fact analog mutimeters aren't so good on the resistance function anyway. Doesn't usually really matter though, I mean if you are interested in whether a 10 ohm resistor is OK, does it matter if the meter shows 12 ohms? That resistor is good for all intents and purposes. If one really needs a precise measurement, you need a decent digital meter anyway, Fluke or many other brands.
@@mdzacharias Thanks for your reply. I agree with you. I just happen to have 4 Simpson 26o meters of varying series. My favorite is the series 6P whichh seems to be everyone's favorite. A close second would be the 6XL which is also have and it is the most accurate of the 4 meters. I love analog meters and use them as well as digital meters. Each has their role to play in the ongoing fun of circuit analysis and design.
I learned on these meters in high school in the early 90s. We had an educational version with a clear back. When a student would blow one up it would fill up with smoke, and our instructor would laugh at us, then make us open it up and fix it. It took me a long time to get used to using digital meters, because the response time was so much longer on the early ones. With the 260 you could tell by how fast the needle swung if you were in the right range, and it was also nice for checking capacitors.
Just recently found a simpson model multimeter in my long since deceased grandfather's closet. I look forward to fixing and using it to fix my old 80s motorcycle.
Very impressive collection my friend. Love the classics
Thanks for the clarification on the models :). I used one of these when I was in the U.S.A.F. working on HF radios in Japan and still need to acquire one. Now I know that I need a 6P. I bought a Fluke 77 series II DMM, Weller variable temperature soldering iron and Panduit GS2B cable tie gun after I got out. When you "raise the bar" with high quality tools, it's hard to go back to low quality stuff...
Nice video. I'm working inn the garage today and came across my Simpson. I used to work on telephone pbx in the field and loved using this meter.
Thank you very much for posting these vids with the analog Simpson meters. You inspired me, and I just received a Model 260 Series 6 today (from that massive auction site). Came w/factory leads, and new batteries. Checked my light meter batteries.....well within range. Next, a microscope light transformer.....ah-ha, I can new see, on the meter, that someone has goofed up while reattaching the voltage adjustment dial. What a relief. A new transformer would cost 2x the meter. Many thx!!
haha i just happen to own a simpson model 260 series 7p cant remember where i got the thing but i had it for a looooong time and it still works like new !! great piece of equipment
Of course I don't use analogs much anymore for troubleshooting/repairs. I have since sold that 6P but still have a 270 Series 2 and a Bach-Simpson 635 which is real handy because it will do AC current. Both of those are on Simpson260DOTcom as guest meters as well. I also like the Japanese built Micronta meters believe it or not. The 22-205 and 22-152 are really good meters. Both 100kOhm per volt. Don't like their Korean stuff, the range doublers etc. Thanks for watching!
The output jack is for measuring AC voltage in the presence of DC voltage. Like signal voltage at the plate of a tube, or audio at the output of a capacitor-coupled amplifier, before the blocking cap.
Mark, I owned over 60 Simpson meters at one time, talking about a Simpson meter junkie..haha (I have a couple featured on Simpson260, and I can tell you that my 2 favorite models are the 260 AFP (Government model), and the Simpson 260-6P, which are identical. I agree with you and am glad to have gotten a mint condition 260-6P. I got it off ebay for about $70.00. I've had 3 160's and had no luck with them, too long to explain. For a quick trend cheap analog I carry a Sunwa YX-360 Great review!
Not too many reasons for this. Bad battery, poor connection to battery somehow (very common). Damaged Rx1 resistor (around 10 to 12 ohms, probably). Poor condition test leads maybe, maybe bad fuse connection. You can remove the battery, short the battery terminals together and use another meter to measure resistance of your test leads through the whole meter circuit. That might give a clue. Thanks for watching! Hope to post something new soon.
Depends on how often you use it. I worry about corrosion also, but I do keep one or two analog multimeters with batteries installed for quick resistance checks and to "pop" the occasional speaker or small motor. Can't do that with a digital multimeter as they are normally limited to 1 milliamp max current on the resistance function. Certainly if you plan to store the meter for over 6 months I would recommend removing the batteries.
Had to research this one. They are described as "6-32" screws, that is size 6, thread count 32. They are 1 and 3/8 inch long with fairly small flat blade drive heads. I'm pretty sure that is what the 6P and the regular bakelite models use. My Bach-Simpson 635 uses the same thread pitch but only 7/8" long.
@kodibass The Simpsons are rugged electrically but will still break with a hard drop. I recommend the 6P because it uses regular test leads.They come up on eBay all the time pretty cheap. Any after the series 2 have varistor protection for the movement and employ fuses also. My advice on avoiding burnout is not to ever leave the meter set to a current or resistance range (especially Rx1). Most analogs have a diode or varistor across the meter coil at least.
The current typically ranges from 0.3~1A when the motors are loaded or Idle, but the startup current spike is is at least 5A but no more than 8A otherwise the Power source Fuse would blow. The PowerSupply to most of the motors is DC unregulated and will exceed 150v when unloaded. A 1K load across it brings it back down to 18v though. While the motors run loaded (1A) the supply drops down to around 13-14v.
A New Fluke 87V new is about the same price as most New Simpson 260 models.
On the Series 6 set the switch to 10mA and you see under that there is an A. Connect the test leads from -10A to10A jacks which are in that row of four jacks just below the meter face. DC current only on this model, not AC current. For AC current you would need a 265, a 635, or an AC current adaptor fitted to the 260.
@xyloeye I haven't seen this but I would suggest that if it works correctly on voltage ranges, the Rx1 resistor is probably low in value or the adjustment potentiometer is bad.
That resistor is usually around 10 to 15 ohms, about the same as the mid-scale reading on the meter when using Rx1.
I would say it's pretty normal to have to hold the leads tightly together to zero the meter for resistance. More so for this analog model in fact because of the higher test current. Had not thought of that before, but I do think it could be significant. Some leads are better than others also. Cheap Chinese leads often behave erratically when doing continuity tests for example.
I have a few 260's and I love them. You can't beat them
Normally to measure one volt or so you would use the 2.5 volt scale and just read somewhere in the middle, or connect the positive lead to the dedicated 1 volt jack and read full scale. Since the meter is 20,000 ohms/volt the total impedance of the meter is only 20,000 ohms using that jack.
I'm sure the Simpson is good and all, but it really depends on what you are doing. Very high current pretty much requires a clamp meter or a dedicated current shunt to put your (probably AC) meter across. The Fluke 87V has a very useful low pass filter designed for motor drive circuits. In combination with the analog bar graph, might be a really good choice. Cheaper than the Simpson, too, I think.
Very nice collection of Simpson meters.
Oh ok now I get it, I see a 1 V below the 2.5V range setting. So then plug positive lead to the +1V and read the 0-10 V black DC mark/range and divide it by 10. That makes sense. (Now I won't look like a newbie if I ever cross an analog meter)
@kodibass Hi. Well, motor coils and condensers are a bit out of my field. Seems like the analog meters would be good for some stuff. The are some "automotive" digital meters being sold these days, a Fluke 88 or similar. Might want to check the features on one of those.
Don't have a 160 and don't really plan to get one any time soon; seems like they always get bid up too high on eBay. More and more just use the analogs for quick checks and trending. Really need to be selling a few, in fact.
That was just a little Micronta DC supply. It's been faithful enough, but of course the comparison is to a Fluke 87 V.
WOW, I have never seen or used an analog meter in my physics lab. So by observation it seems that if the knob is switched to 2.5V, you read the DC 250V scale and divide it by 100. So if you want to measure between 0-1.0 V you have switch the knob to the 10V and get the reading from the DC 10V scale and divide it by 10.
There are versions with mirrored scales. The 260-6MP would be the same as yours with the mirror added.
The tilt handle helps in this regard - accuracy does not suffer much when used this way. Can't tilt AVO's, not really anyway...
I like the 260-6P because it uses the regular banana plugs and not those ridiculous inverted types used by the 7 and 8 models. The 5P and military AFP-1 models have a similar protection function as the 6P but unfortunately use that 15 volt battery for the RX10,000 range and for the protection relay. The 6P uses a 9 volt battery for that. There is a nice site called simpson260DOTcom for pictures and info.
I have a old vintage Simpson 303 that used the old amphenol connectors. Have a hard time finding probes
Just bought this model here in the UK, in mint condition. I love the AVO's but this is a smaller alternative. Strange no parallax mirror?
Perfect, Your vid answered allot of my questions, So for all around basic shop use I should look for a Simpson 260-6p, for around $50-75 with no corrosion in the battery compartments. I know very little about meters, But need one for checking coils/condensers etc. in vintage outboards, and I was told to get a simpson. So this is the one I will look for, Is there any other info/questions I should ask before purchasing ? Great video & thanks!
great video. im a self professed multimeter junkie as well. I use them all the time I did at work testing copper phone lines with the 8455. As you know the 45 volt battery is not sold and if your interested Ive perfected a perfect 45volt pack...ill probably post a clip soon be good...jimmy
I just bought a 260 ,and I have no Idea what I bought ,I always ask for inside picture,this is the one time I.didn't follow my own rules and I will probably pay for it .always ask the seller for inside picture,don't be afraid to ask the seller questions,also.see if the sellers other stuff they sell a lot of times they have no Idea what they are selling which means you might get it very cheap,like.my heath kit vtvm I got a very good deal,and I worked with the seller,but I got lazy on.my Simpson 260 .that's coming ,I was.sick when I bought it ,A good seller will have good reviews ,and will work with anwer your question ,
@kingfish4488 It should work correctly with any vom having a 5000 ohms per volt AC sensitivity. Accuracy might be less with other models.
This is one reason I don't like VTVM's. You can find appropriate probes on eBay from time to time, but they are often in pretty rough shape. See if you can find some antique radio forum and ask the guys there.
I haven't found much on the Simpson 160 handi VOM in terms of reviews and wondered what you think of it in comparison to the 260?. If you have one maybe you can do a review for us sometime. Thanks for all your help by the way.
after getting an ele associates 15 years ago and moving from missouri back to louisiana i sadly lost my 260 series 3 i had in college and realized my dad has 2 apparently one is mine one is his dads . long story short i found one on ebay for 65$ today just because my digi meter wasnt cutting it for caps and diodes in the microwaves . so now now i have a 6p and 3 . guess you cant have too many nothing compares to quality , and yes the 6p has shiny copper and clean bat tray .
Hi mark I have a series 8 keeps draining 9volt battery any idea what to check?
Great collection!
First, thank you for all your brand specific repair videos. I really appreciate your sharing your knowledge of common problems with blown channels, etc. On the Simpson 260, is there a pot that will bring back full scale deflection in the RX1 mode (battery is good)? Thanks again.
I do not have allot of experience with Simpson. My other question would be when I go to zero out the needle for a resistance check i hold the leed ends together and though i feel i'm holding the leeds still the needle tends to be "bouncy" I am not saying i cannot get the needle to hold still at all, but it's not an easy task,...is this normal? and I havbe to hold them still between fingers as opposed to just touching the ends together
You can't buy a new 6P. They have the 9 series, like the 9S and 9SP. I notice they went back to a more conventional banana jack on these, not those stupid inverted types like on the 7 and 8 series. These days, a person normally would use a good digital meter for voltage readings, and you don't need a high end analog for trending etc. Any Micronta will do for that. I had one the other day where .2 volts made the difference. Can't resolve that with most analogs.
@xyloeye My brain. CHECK THE D CELL BATTERY AND THE BATTERY CONTACTS !
i have a simpson 260 series 3 and an rca wv-38a i dont understand why they dont work, i checked and the resistors and diodes etc seem fine that i can test.i figured the rotary switchs could be preventing connections so cleaned those. i was given these two thinking i could make them work so i could have an analog meter in addition to my other test gear. it seems to me if i am correct they should work on all but resistance even without batteries so unless the guage itself happens to be busted in both of them i dont get it, i cant seem to find troubleshooting guidance online. do you know any resources?
Mark, when you describe a 12- volt strike on the circuit in the Rx1 range... what are the typical consequences? smoked movement?? I just picked up a Series 7 that was manufactured in 02 and the movement is dead. Also, are you aware of a movement source other than just purchasing a 'Used Meter" for movement replacement. I happened onto a pristine series 7 off craigslist for a song and would like to get it going.
Usually just the Rx1 resistor smokes. If it's now open circuit, the needle will peg on any resistor when using that range.
@@mdzacharias Something got the movement in this one, I put a 10K resistor with movement isolated on the + side of the meter and input a variable voltage from zero... no deflection. I've searched the net for a new movement and have found nothing listed. This meter never seen much use if any, literally like new inside/out. Simpson has nothing listed far as new movements to my surprise. Thanks for the speedy reply, any and all feedback is helpful.
Thanks I have a nice micronta digital, And its great for most stuff, but for testing the small vintage coils / condensers the analogs work better for me, I have seen some simpsons series 6's & 7's on ebay but no reset button like yours, does this mean they are not overload protected or able to be reset? had a china analog meter it worked for what I was using it for until it hit the garage cement floor. so I thought I'd buy something a bit more as you said rugged. Any help appreciated.
I have a 260, and I was just wondering if you make a practice of leaving the battery in place while in storage or remove it between use? I remove my battery but not real sure if that is necessary but i do that to avoid corrosion in trhe battery compartment. What do you do?
Thanks, Mark. I'll look at those.
Ken
I don't want to take your title but so far I have 9 260s, a series 1, 2 series 2s, 2 5Ms, a 6XLP, a 7 and a 7P and a series 8. I think I may need professional help.
I'm down to just two Simpsons now, a Bach-Simpson 635 and a 270 series 2. Developed an irrational liking for Japanese built Micronta meters. Mostly made by Kamoden, like the 22-205A, 22-207, 22-150 etc. Don't really like the Korean stuff, the 22-204's and the like. Yuk.
Thanks for the review! What power supply did you use to run the voltage checks?
hey mark...love the vids...was a 31b20 in the army...almost made it through 31e20 school at USASESS but got hurt...my question is why won't my 260-6XLPM calibrate on the Rx1 scale? goes to about 1 ohm...but can't get to zero....
Can you explain what the 350 volt out put socket is for on my 260p
Hi, just picked up a 260 6xlp at an auction today for $7.50 Got home and replaced both the D cell and 9 volt square batteries. Seems to test my 12 volt car batteries and house outlets ok. The D battery was corroded and the negative terminal is in rough shape. Can that piece be bought new or do I have to fabricate?
I recently acquired a 6P and found the case screws were missing. What would be the appropriate screws? Thanks, Lee
Hey, does anyone know if the Simpson 260-9SP is any good? I am looking to get an analog multimeter to monitor both AC and DC current/voltage jumping on motor circuits where DMM don't quite cut it.
Love my 160m, but it does need a 22.5v cell which will cost me about $25.
sanjursan I've often thought about picking up a 160 - haven't because I have bunches of analogs that don't get used enough. The 22.5 battery is another reason I hadn't thought of. Thanks for saving me from myself! :-)
Jean Jubinville - I am finding nothing on the Bach-Simpson 955. Sorry.
Hello, I have a Simpson 260 series 8, I'm looking at a used Simpson amp-clamp Model 150-2 will this work with my meter. Thanks
very cool vid!! my electronics teacher gave me a Simpson series 7 and I've been wanting a vintage meter for a very long while and I'm very fortunate to have gotten this one from my teacher. and everything works on it but I need some new test leads for it and I'm not sure where I could get any without having to buy them online. any suggestions? thanks.
+Matthew Blalock Probably only on-line unless you can find a Simpson dealer. Probemaster probably has the. Remember they are special inverted banana plug types for the 260-7 and -8.
Yes, Probemaster makes the goofy inverted banana lead sets... got a set for a NOS, in the original box 7M that popped up on Craigs list (for $30.00!) The meter is pristine... but it's leads had been through the war. Like all PM leads, they are stellar; but are buried fairly deep on their site... you have to look.
I have a model 260 series 3 that seems to have a dead display meter. All internal parts are OK. Other than EBAY taking a chance on a parts only meter, is there a replacement display available elsewhere ?
No place I know of. Occasionally you see a "new old stock" meter movement o eBay. Also, you can contact the seller before buying or bidding; some of them are knowledgeable enough to test the meter or otherwise assure you the meter movement is good.
Thanks Mark, I assumed that would be the case. I have contacted Simpson also to see if they have another updated meter movement that would work in the series 3.
What year did the 260 series 6 come out. I have one that my dad gave me.
Don't know really, maybe 1975 0r so. A good resource is www.simpson260.com/
Thanks. I looked there but didn't see a date. Mine is just a series 6.
I really like the 6 series though. The last ones of the classic bakelite to use ordinary 4mm banana plugs for the test leads. The 7 and 8 series used those ridiculous inverted probes.
My vintage Fender Telecasters have bakelite pick guards. Bakelite is cool.
Are these meters meant to be used lying on there backs, I am having an issue with mine, lying flat it works just fine but standing straight up it doesn’t do well at all, the needle doesn’t move correctly
Most analog meters do best on their backs. With a Simpson it shouldn't be so bad when tilted, at least the taut-band models. (meter movement)
Ok, I recently sold a meter and the guy says to me that the meter is in great condition, when on its back it works no problem, tilted it works slightly less effective but standing upright he says the needle gets stuck about 2/3 of the way, I sold the meter never used, but he wants to exchange it saying it doesn’t work correctly, just wondering, I heard you say that these meters work best lying flat, do you know if these meters work with the same efficiency standing straight up, I’m really trying to determine if the meter may be bad or if he is just not using it correctly
@@kingofoblivion1822 The difference between flat and tilted should only be maybe 5% tops. If the difference is as great as you say it sounds like the meter you sold had an undiagnosed mechanical issue with the meter movement. Sorry.
Thanks for your input, it helped me make a decision,
Thanks for your input, it helped me make a decision,
Ok Thanks
need some help, i have a 260 series 6p it doesn't seam to work. it was given to me. i put new battery in it. i now i'm not doing something right. can you help.it looks like it's in good shape. looks clean. if you can help
You haven't given me much information. Have you tried for example just setting the meter to a 10 volt DC range and measuring a 9 volt battery? Do you have another (working) multimeter to help troubleshoot this one? Have you any experience in electronics?
Mark Zacharias ok I try that the needle move. The needle was all the way over on the left and move to the right. What are some other tests I can run. No I don’t have another meter.
If I understand you correctly - it sounds like the meter basically works. You should watch a few videos on TH-cam about using multimeters and pay particular attention to those with analog type meters. Always start with the highest range and work down, at least until you know what you are doing. Don't attempt ANY current measurements until you understand the principles - it's very easy to blow up the meter when using the current function.
Also the OHMS function should be used with care. On Rx1 or Rx10 ranges, there are resistors inside which can burn if the meter is connected to a voltage source of say 12 volts or more.
I like the series 6
James skippinhopper The series 6 is probably my favorite 260 mainly because it uses a 9 volt battery instead of that string of AA's that always seem to get the corroded terminals in the 3 through 5 series. I also like the 270 series through series 4 and the 625 and Bach-Simpson 635 models. I won't own or use those models like the 7 and 8 when have those stupid inverted input jacks. I need to be able to use regular 4mm ended test leads.
can I use this as a megger tester
No, not suitable for that kind of wok. A megger has to also generate a high voltage.
the 260 that I have has 1 D cell and 6 AA
Yeah - the Series 3 through 5 (not 5P) used 1 D cell and 4 AA cells. The 5P and AFP-1 (military 5P) used a D cell and a 15 volt battery, the 6 through 8 uses a D cell and a 9 volt.You can read up on most all of them at Simpson260.com.
Contact Simpson Electric
P.O. Box 99
520 Simpson Avenue
Lac du Flambeau, WI 54538-0099
Phone: (715) 588-3311
Fax: (715) 588-3326
Maybe they can help.
I accept Paypal :-)
Why didn't you measure resistors on the Simpson and compare its accuracy to your Fluke?? Are you afraid to reveal how lousy the Simpson's accuracy is compared to your Fluke?? Fraidy cat!
Ha! You're not wrong, but in fact analog mutimeters aren't so good on the resistance function anyway. Doesn't usually really matter though, I mean if you are interested in whether a 10 ohm resistor is OK, does it matter if the meter shows 12 ohms? That resistor is good for all intents and purposes. If one really needs a precise measurement, you need a decent digital meter anyway, Fluke or many other brands.
@@mdzacharias Thanks for your reply. I agree with you. I just happen to have 4 Simpson 26o meters of varying series. My favorite is the series 6P whichh seems to be everyone's favorite. A close second would be the 6XL which is also have and it is the most accurate of the 4 meters. I love analog meters and use them as well as digital meters. Each has their role to play in the ongoing fun of circuit analysis and design.
@@sliderulelover Yeah, the 6P was really great. My Bach-Simpson 635 is really my favorite. Even does AC current up to 12 amps.