Willys Jeep hub removal and brake drum swedge cutter
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video I am beginning to tear down the front and rear axles. I will show you the proper way to remove the rear hub. I will also show you how to separate the hub and drum without causing any damage to either. You will see how to properly use a swedge cutter and why it is important.
Brian, it is so rare to have an intelligent, practical, gifted mechanic willing to share‼️ I commend you praying hope you are blessed with your endeavor, and this fantastic craftsmanship is passed on
I have been looking for over a month on how my 68 Wagoneer brake drums are constructed. Now I understand. Thank you before I caused serious damage.
Sir, you are a true craftsman. A pleasure watching and learning from you.
Jim
Thanks for watching Jim.
Thanks for the video! Now I'm no expert on willys but turned wrenches for 30 years.. anyhow. Had to replace all 4 brake drums on a 47.. all I used was a 20 ton hydraulic press and large socket to easily push out the wheel studs.. then pressed them securely back in place. Worked great and didn't need to annular cut the hub around the stud.
John, I did the same thing I did not see that swaging my studs seem tight I use Loctite in addition to the spline
We were into the front hub on my '47 cj today, just inspecting and adjusting, but now I understand much better what is involved in going deeper. Thanks again for your excellent videos.
Glad you are learning from and enjoying my videos...... that is the whole reason I am making them, to help those restoring their vehicles correctly. Let me know if there is anything you would like to see in the future.
metalshaper sure thank you again for your videos and your knowledge and most especially your time. I was wondering if one didn't want to invest in special tool for removing the studs on the brake drum could you just throw them out with a slightly smaller drill bit or would that be a waste of time?
Thanks for this. Now I understand what has to happen to properly replace my 46-48 Ford rear Drums on my Model A. Now I can properly tell the shop what I need done.
Thanks for watching. It is very easy to ruin hubs so if you are taking your items to a shop be sure they understand the swedge has to be removed before pressing studs out.
All of your videos are so helpful I learn a lot from them.
God Bless you for all your content! Enjoy it and have learned so much. Keep up the good work!!
But, I sure wish your camera would work worth a heck! Many shots are pretty blurry. Not complaining and I do see that this video is 5 years old.
Keep sending content!!
Things I didn’t know I didn’t know. Thanks for the education
I've always used hammer to the studs, after 40 years of not damaging a drum it finally happened. yes I also used a press, but it finally happened and that'e how I learned about the swedge cutter. also can use other grinding tools. My Hat Off to You for this video. i Like, OLE!
Glad you made it for 40 years with no trouble, but it does happen eventually. Thanks for watching, Brian
June, 2020 - '64 Scout 80 owner here. Dana 27's front and rear. Thank you for posting these videos! Everything I needed to know about rebuilding / upgrading my axels I have found via your videos...
Glad you found the videos helpful, many more out there on restoration topics if you need any more info. Brian
I liked your video it helped me out I have a 1946 Willy jeep
Thanks for watching, glad my video helped on your project
Oh boy, here we go again. I don't have those hub puller tools you have and I wish I had. Busy pulling my backend out for refurb as I type.
Thanks again Brian, your videos are the very best there are on the older Jeeps and keep me wanting to do more to mine.
Take your time and don't break anything taking it apart. If you own a early jeep then a hub puller should be part of your tool kit, as it is needed for brake work and more. Try to get a hub puller and make or buy a axle shaft puller. If you need anything let me know.
I am now the proud owner of a drum puller.
If it wasn't for this tool I'd hate to think of what my flanges would look like now.
:-)
Fantastic Mike, there are certain tools you will need as a jeep owner and this one is close to the top of the list. glad you got one and good luck with your projects.
Hi Brian, found a crack in the rear axle spindle hub assembly where the key is inserted and it runs down about an inch in the axle collar. I am now looking to replace my rear hubs and I need some help getting good reliable parts. Any ideas where I can get good spares for my CJ5 1962 that will ship to South Africa?
I have read to beware of Omix-Ada and Crown replacements, but I know of no other available.
I spent a while looking for the details you mentioned of Peter Debella in one of your other posts and I found the website, so many videos to go through, so thanks again.
It really impresses me when I see your home made tools at work! You're 1 in a million very handy guy!
Thanks for another good comment, glad you are taking the time to watch my channel.
great video on showing stuff getting ready to start working on 55 willy
Thanks for the comment, sure is good to know that people are enjoying the videos and tips I am showing. Good luck on your 55
Really glad I whatched this before ripping into my 47 , thank you sir
Again, great stuff. I didn't know about the most important part to pushing those out.
Thanks for the comment. Most people are unaware of cutting out the swedge, that is why there are so many junk hubs out there. keep watching for more tips on future videos.
Very informative. Just bought my own willys and this information was brilliant / thank you I wished you lived near me I would be your best friend. John
Glad you enjoyed it
Huge help. Thank you. I won't destroy the other side now. 😊
Glad it helped!
Jeez mate thanks very well put together now I understand hammers not the only
Tool in the box
Thanks saved me from wrecking some 1965 Dodge A100 front hubs
thanks for the comment. Good to know that my videos have saved another set of hubs.
i just did my 68 Slant Six, Dart. used the hammer method. one survived other flared. so i ended with a all-in-one piece drum, the other is two piece. the hub assembly is on the spindle, drum just slides over it. works fine. besides that's how newer cars with drums had their setup.
Thank you for having this out there.
I am working on a 1946 CJ2a so this is a lot of help thank you .
Good video. I'm working on an old Scout now. Same set-up.
Your a gifted mechanic, thank you for sharing. Please make more video's...It helps when you can see what others are doing when working thru your own restoration.
Mark
Thanks for watching and glad you liked the video. I have a bunch more out there and many more coming so hang around and keep watching.
Brian
Terima kasih degan peneragan ini
Jadi saya faham megenali jeep us malantery ini
Fantastic information. Unfortunately I beat my studs out before seeing this. I hope I’m OK.
That jig is brilliant !
This video is a wealth of information.
thanks for watching.
video info is straight and true.
Hi Brian, thanks for this informative video! I have learned really a lot from the videos! You mentioned that you have a conical tool that you use to make the swege again. I am not sure if you have a video on it? If not I would really like to see how you do it. I need to do a complete brake job on my jeep and would like to do it correctly the first time. The 11" upgrade kits seem to be very difficult to find now days and my jeep seems to be fitted with a bit of a mismatch of various parts. So the best option for me is to go back to the standard 9" brakes again. Kind regards Pieter
Learned alot Thank you
Sir, have you ever considered making some of these special tools and making them available for sale? Id buy.....
That's great if you have all that neat equipment...however since I am not reusing the studs I cut them off flush with a cutting blade on a grinder. Drill a pilot hole dead center of each stud,then drill a 3/8 inch hole about a 1/4 inch deep to weaken the swedge and then with the drum on a good sturdy , FLAT work table I punch out the studs with a hammer and drift . Works every time.
You just saved my hubs! Didn’t know about the Swede studs.
Glad my video was able to save another set of hubs. I always see people ruin them so I am glad you found my video. thanks for watching.
Brian
Sure glad my 61 CJ5 has the 9" drums they have 3 set screws that hold the drum on so i don't have to deal with this. Found this video when looking for recommendations on what type of puller to used to pull the rear hubs off so i can install the rear brake shoes
hope you found the video useful on how to remove the rear hub. Nice to have the drum on the outside, easy to remove.
Man this is a great video very helpful thank you
glad you enjoyed it and found it helpful. keep watching for more tips on restoration work.
So now will you measure the drums and determine if you can machine them...? These hubs look like they will clean up nice on the lathe....!! Keep up the good work!!
Drums need to be turned when attached to the hub. These drums were in good shape with plenty of material to turn to size. I separated them because we are upgrading this vehicle to the 11" self adjusting brake system. If I was going to keep it stock I would have just mounted the hub and drum in the brake lathe and turned it round and smooth.
Excellent!!!!!!!!
Hello Brian. Thanks for the video, I’ve been following your channel as I rebuild my 3a. I’m finally to the axles and brakes. I’m having trouble though, I have the same hub puller you’re using and for the life of me can’t get them to budge. I’m afraid to break something at this point. Have you ran into a hub that just wouldn’t go? Or is there some extra trick that I should look into? Thanks for any info you can provide, and keep up the awesome content, you’ve saved me a lot of money in watching how to do it correctly first!
they can be extremely hard to remove. Keep tightening it with a hammer and when you have it as tight as possible hit the end of the pressure screw with a large hammer and it should come jumping right off the axleshaft. Don't be afraid to hit that dogbone with a large hammer, 5 pounds or more to tighten it. It takes a lot of pressure to remove these hubs.
What do you suggest if you don’t have the handy press that you have??
What if I just need to replace a stud? It looks like cutting that material off ruins the hub
Thank you. Great video!
Brian... Thank you!!
Great stuff man! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Very well displayed and excellent workmanship. Is the jig you made available? I have no lathe or milling machine. Great job on the video. Thank you.
Hi Brian, I have a new set of studs and drums for my cj2a. I measured the splined area on the studs and that is 0.626 and on the drum hole it's 0.590. Is that normal size, almost looks like the stud hole on the drum really needs to expand allot. I am just scared it will crack the cast-iron drum when I press it through. I beleive you need to press the studs through the drum and hub at the same time which makes sense. Hope you can assist. I see the quality of the drums on this video is for sure better than the new ones on the market!!
there needs to be a press fit and the splines will cut their way thru when you press them thru.
@metalshaperJeep thanks Brian. I was not concentrating when I did the 1st one, so I pressed the stud through the drum only and not through the drum and the hub at the same time. I managed to crack the drum around the stud area on the drum. Stupid of me!! Even though I had enough support under the drum it still damaged it. Hopefully someone can read this and learn from my mistake
All great videos !
Can you even buy new drums which fit on the back face of the hub? I've tried everywhere, but all I can get now seems to be the ones which fit over the front, and are basically squeezed between the wheel and the hub by the wheel nuts.They rely heavily for location on a tight fit of the studs through the holes. They're O.K. I suppose, but the new studs have to be a bit longer to compensate for the thickness of the drum face. Plus,they do not look as original.
Trying to find the size/link for that cutter?
Great video. Thankyou
hi brian hate to sound uneducated but is this style set up better than others ? and is that a semi or full floater ? ty
Semi floating, you can see there is no where to bolt the axle to the hub as a full floater would have.
Thank you for a Great tutorial !
Glad it was helpful!
One other thing, once you use the "cutter" and removed the "pressed riveting" of the stud, isn't the hole bigger than you started with ? Or is there enough metal left in the wall thickness of the hub plate to hold the new stud WITHOUT "pressing" it in and expanding the new lug bolt shoulder like the old one was ? Can you show a video with the new studs installed ?
Love your work! i god a badly rusted one im fixin to tow and sheared 4 out of 5 lugnuts with the studs flush with the drum. is it possable to unbolt the while thing from the back and beat it off from the axle side? i know its not the right way but i stuck, i need to get this up on a trailer not far from my home in virginia.
How would you do it if you didn’t have the tool to remove the drum?
some guys use a hole saw to cut the swedge. Others cut off the stud completely and then cut the swedge with an end mill of the proper diameter.
Can you do a 68 D100 front drum and and hub. Where is your shop.
I have everything for the project and no way to do it.
I am in Connecticut but work on projects from all over the world. You can drop off or ship in anything that you need help with. Contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net
Brian
Ok, so the new lug studs are not "pressed in" like the old ones ? If properly removed as you show in your vid, are the holes tight enough for the stud without pressing the new ones in and expanding the shoulder of the stud ? You make no mention of this I don't believe. Great video, THNKS
on the willys jeeps, does the big shoe go to the front, or the rear of the vehicle on these drums?
I would like to see the front hub taken off from scratch, do you have a video of it, I have to replace brake cylinder, thanks, I am learning a lot, great, Thank you
Where to buy this puller Link
Where can I purchase a sledge cutter and the tool to reswedge the bolt.? No one in my area knows the proper way to do this job. Thanks
Goodson tools is the best place to get the swedge cutter and swedge tool. goodson.com you may have to call them to get it, last time I checked I couldn't find it on the website.
Brian
I assume when installing a new drum, new studs need to be used? Do they need to be swedged, or riveted in? What is the procedure, or what type of tool is used for that? Thanks!
I am installing a new brake kit and will show you that on a future video. I will be installing new studs and a new drum. If I was installing a new, original drum then the studs would have to be swedged again with a swedging tool. The new drum I am installing is going over the drum on the outside like a normal modern drum so it does not need to be swedged. I will try to show the tool for swedging in a future video so you can see it. It is a piece of steel that fits over the stud and has a tapered area at the bottom. When placed in a press the tool is forced down expanding the stud into the hub.
Fantastic!
I love the videos! Do you have a video of pressing the hubs back into new drums? I have a simple small ten ton press and I’m having trouble pressing the new studs in and keeping everything square. Any suggestions? 1946 cj2a. Thank you.
File the studs slightly on the grooves
hi I need help with removing the key its stuk inside on the brake drum of my old jeep please eny thing would help
If no millin machine was in the house would a block of wood, an a router work to make the jig ? seems to me it would.
I think it would work fine. I would keep the end grain up, on the side you will be pressing against. Maybe add some metal bands around to make sure it stays together when pressing studs out. There is quite a bit of force on the jig when pressing out the studs.
metalshaper great video, thanks I am working on that right now
Thanks for the comment and your continued support of my channel. Hopefully the videos will help in your restoration.
Perron maestro.
I'm a complete amateur, but do you have to remove the hub in order to have the drum cut for new brakes?
No, leave the hub and drum together when you take it to get it machined.
@@metalshaperJeep Thank you very much. about 15 years ago my wife bought me a 43 Willys as long as I left her alone (good deal), but didn't buy me a mechanic lol
Have you ever tried using your impact on the hub puller, instead of the dog bone and hammer?
yes I have used the impact on the pressure screw. the dog bone and hammer work best .
@@metalshaperJeep Thank you.
I have a 49 Pickup with the Timken rear end looks like your are showing. We have the puller that you show and have stripped the threads on it. Any suggestions? This thing seems to be frozen on. Any suggestions about heat or freezing?
Apply PB Penetrant for 3 days first, and rap drum a little with hammer
0:33 - Could someone write me the size of the nut? I can't understand it in the video. Thanks!
I here it as 1-7/16"
Do you or anyone else know what the purpose of this "swedge" design was in the first place ?
The stud is swedged to keep the hub and drum together. This swedge technique is used on vehicles that have the drum behind the hub.
Now I know why there's the remains of brake drums on the back of my hubs, they appear to have been cut off with a torch
Question for you,
Im working on a similar set up, with tapered axles and pressed hubs, on the rear of my 1955 Dodge.
Im wanting to turn the rear drums to clean them up.
Finding a centering cone that is small enough to fit in the outboard, smaller side of the hub may be an issue for me.
Have you turned your drums with the hubs still on the drums or do the hubs have to be removed? I can’t imagine the size is much different than what Im looking at.
I see nothing about turning the rear drums on old Mopars on the web.
Yes, you can turn them with the hub still installed, a very common way to do it. On my brake lathe I have very small centering cones and can turn them without any trouble.
@@metalshaperJeep Thats good to know!
I’m using the smallest cone available on ours, I believe.
It just barely catches on the chamfer from the cone and the chamfer on the drum. Just barely, but doesn’t fit into the drum.
I guess, either your cone is smaller or the hub ID is larger on the jeep.
I’ll probably have to cut our cones chamfer to steeper angle, this will sharpen it up, hopefully allowing to catch a bit more into the hub.
Thanks,
Kerry
@@metalshaperJeep The ID on the out board side of my hubs mic up at 1.080, with the 1” arbor that doesn’t leave much room.
The smallest cone I have is the 3902.
Are you using one of those 11/16 arbors?
@@kerryyeroyan8212 I have cones with my brake lathe that start at the same diameter as the shaft and taper out from there. So anything larger than 1.000" can be held with no problem. You can probably find them or just make them on a lathe easy enough.
would the same method apply if the axle has lockers ?
yes, the teardown is basically the same. Depending on what type of locker you have it may be inside the carrier or it may be the entire carrier itself. No matter what type of locker you have the steps are the same, remove hubs, axles, and then ring and pinion.
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge , i was successfully able to remove them with no problem , once again thank you and have blessed day
Glad you were able to remove the parts with no trouble. Keep watching for future videos, and if there is anything else you would like to see just send me a comment.
Just answered my own questions "metalshapper" by reading the subsequent comments ! So you DO need to "swedge" the new lug studs in (?)
The process is to cut the swedge, press out the old studs, and then proceed
with your repair, whatever it may be. New drum, new hub, new studs, etc......
If you are using an original drum which is behind the hub, then press in new studs and then swedge them. I didn't show that because I was using a drum on the outside and studs don't need to be swedged in that application. When cutting the swedge you are just taking a little bit of material away, so the hub will be plenty thick for new studs. When swedging new studs buy or make a tool to use in a press. Just large enough to go over stud, and tapered at the bottom. Back up the stud and press the shoulder of the stud to expand it into the hub. Any other questions just let me know.
Brian
awesome
glad you are enjoying the videos. Keep watching for more.
6
I think you need glasses, there was a lot of out of focus shots.
My rear hub is really stuck, the cheap $25 hub pullers don't work. Will have to order a OTC one and see if it works :)
Mayor Fuglycool
the cheap ones rarely work on the rear hubs. Get a good OTC, snap on, etc.. unit and it will last forever and work every time.
Ordered a used OTC, thanks, you are a great help ! My M38 is still coming along, got so much to work on still. Need to replace rear brake pads, and the bearings sound really really bad back there. Gonna take out the chunk while I'm at it, see if bubba is in there somewhere :P
Mayor Fuglycool
Trying to get that hub off now. . . It's really stuck on there. OTC tool gets really difficult to hammer.
Mayor Fuglycool
tighten it as tight as you can then take a large hammer and smack the end of the screw. You have to shock it so use a 3 to 5 pound hammer. Give it a good hit and the hub should jump loose.
On the rear driver's side, when it popped the hammer screw arm flew. Had the castle nut on there. Other side just popped off and somehow shot driver side axle with bearing out. Passenger side axle and bearing were loose enough to pull out by hand.
Mayor Fuglycool