Like your videos and how you do your work. When cleaning oily parts I stopped using cleaners. I just wipe, scrape the heavy muck and I heat all my parts with a weed burner torch. Heat your parts until they start to smoke (don't breath it) then take the heat away until it stops smoking and then reheat over and over until no more smoke. Wire brush the carbon off and your ready for paint. Easy peasy and no chemicals. No warpage if you evenly heat the parts. Removes old paint as well. hope to see more great videos.
Haha, I did the same thing of my old ford truck. Hammer and screwdriver to spin it out on the 4wd hub on the front. Nice to clean and paint the backing plates up!
For some reason it’s one of my favorite jobs, not sure what they are going to look like when you take the hubs off. Which is usually pretty bad . Then cleaning them up is pretty gratifying.Hope all is well with you guys
With the lug studs, there is a crimp ( swedge )on the perimeter where they meet the drum that must be cut before pressing or you will ruin the drum or hub
Thanks for the video. Working on my '43 Willys MB and was wanting a video of full break disassembly. I don't have the know howy dad does to just do it from experience
I ran into the same shape nuts on my Bantam trailer (same hubs as the CJ2A) and I expect to find more of the same when I get into the front brakes on my CJ2A soon.
Hey Roy, I think last week I told you a wrong ! I think I told you short shoes to the front, long shoes to the rear ! My Bad, sorry. Just as the front axle brakes do more stopping, so goes the shoes on each axle. So your longer shoe should be to the front. I see one of your other watchers has already mentioned checking your king pins while you have the hub assembly apart. Be Safe, Well and Warm
Hey C.B. No need to be sorry. Your input is always appreciated. I got some conflicting information. But the majority came to your conclusion. I am going to check everything I can while I’m in that area.
@@ra5gto Roy is correct on these models the large shoe is in the front. Most other Bendix systems are opposite, I believe the difference is due to self adjusting or eccentrics adjustment. I made the same mistake with my 55 CJ5 until I picked up a 63 service manual.
I've watched you doing brakes on this and your FJ. Was wondering if you were missing the Swedge. That's why I suggested you look at MetalShaper's videos. th-cam.com/video/mi_FrxpeSi0/w-d-xo.html
Like your videos and how you do your work. When cleaning oily parts I stopped using cleaners. I just wipe, scrape the heavy muck and I heat all my parts with a weed burner torch. Heat your parts until they start to smoke (don't breath it) then take the heat away until it stops smoking and then reheat over and over until no more smoke. Wire brush the carbon off and your ready for paint. Easy peasy and no chemicals. No warpage if you evenly heat the parts. Removes old paint as well. hope to see more great videos.
Great advice Thank you being a plumber I deal with a lot of chemicals. I’m always looking for ways to avoid them .
Haha, I did the same thing of my old ford truck. Hammer and screwdriver to spin it out on the 4wd hub on the front. Nice to clean and paint the backing plates up!
For some reason it’s one of my favorite jobs, not sure what they are going to look like when you take the hubs off. Which is usually pretty bad . Then cleaning them up is pretty gratifying.Hope all is well with you guys
Gracias por el vídeo, lo hiciste muy bien, excelente trabajo.
Gracias por estar aqui
With the lug studs, there is a crimp ( swedge )on the perimeter where they meet the drum that must be cut before pressing or you will ruin the drum or hub
Thanks for the heads up, ill removed the crimp,before I try to remove the studs
Thanks for the video. Working on my '43 Willys MB and was wanting a video of full break disassembly. I don't have the know howy dad does to just do it from experience
Thanks for being here, good luck on your 43 MB hope this video helped or was at least entertaining
I ran into the same shape nuts on my Bantam trailer (same hubs as the CJ2A) and I expect to find more of the same when I get into the front brakes on my CJ2A soon.
I ran into the same nuts on my Fc.They are in the same shape.I didn’t change them but now that I know better I’m going to change them.
Hey Roy,
I think last week I told you a wrong !
I think I told you short shoes to the front, long shoes to the rear !
My Bad, sorry.
Just as the front axle brakes do more stopping, so goes the shoes on each axle.
So your longer shoe should be to the front.
I see one of your other watchers has already mentioned checking your king pins while you have the hub assembly apart.
Be Safe, Well and Warm
Hey C.B. No need to be sorry. Your input is always appreciated. I got some conflicting information. But the majority came to your conclusion. I am going to check everything I can while I’m in that area.
I don't know where i got mixed up- thought that the longer shoe went to the rear. Good information, thanks
Just double-checked, the longer surfaced shoe does face the rear. Do your own research and verify.
@@ra5gto Roy is correct on these models the large shoe is in the front. Most other Bendix systems are opposite, I believe the difference is due to self adjusting or eccentrics adjustment. I made the same mistake with my 55 CJ5 until I picked up a 63 service manual.
@@OldCarGarageUSA thank you for explaining this, I am new to the Jeep world
Thankyou for your input I really appreciate it. I’m new also to the Jeep world.
Thanks for being here, and sharing your knowledge
That far in you just might as well upgrade to 11” brakes
True
こんにちは、日本から拝見しています、ブレーキライニングの向きですが短い方が前方に付くのではないでしょうか？、取り付け方が逆になるのではいかと思いました。
Sorry I didn’t respond, I think you are correct. But I’m getting conflicting info
I've watched you doing brakes on this and your FJ. Was wondering if you were missing the Swedge. That's why I suggested you look at MetalShaper's videos.
th-cam.com/video/mi_FrxpeSi0/w-d-xo.html
Yes thanks for that. He’s got a great channel. He has awesome tools. Thanks for the information