Making a Vise Stop Part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ส.ค. 2024
- Here's the first of two videos on making a simple vise stop for the milling machine. This is aimed toward novice machinists, but it is a handy tool for anyone with a milling machine and is a great machining exercise for any level.
Link to the print: drive.google.com/open?id=10Hs...
Conventional and Climb Milling: • Quick Machining Tip #9...
Thank you so much for taking the time to record, edit and post this great tutorial.
All machinists can benefit from making their own tools, but it helps immensely to have teachers like yourself who are willing to share the steps necessary for making the tools.
Cheers
I’m in a fundamentals of machining course. This is one of our projects. Sometimes the teacher is too busy to lay out instructions this clearly to us. This will help me get an A on this milling project. It is explained in an easy to understand format and is detailed. You have my gratitude!
Happy to help. Let me know if you have any questions.
I really like your videos. I am a beginner never owned a milling machine, just a harbor freight drill press and a cross vise for home hobbyist. I now own a mini mill and I want to learn the basics to get started. I like how you explain as you go all the simple things needed to know as you go. Sometimes I listen and think what about this when your cutting or what about that , then all of a sudden your answering or explaining it. So thanks and keep the videos coming.
Thanks for watching! Is that a Saxophone in your profile pic?
For a new machinist I learned a lot. Great lesson. Thanks for thinking of us new guys.
No problem. Thanks for watching!
+ Lots of good info and always something to learn. I look forward to your videos. Thanks.
I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
Stuart, thank you. Really appreciate the drawings and the reamer tips. Well, ok, I liked the whole thing. :)
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Sir pls pls put a video about boring bar techniques with easy removal of lots of material
Stuart, I've always been told to make sure that you have equal pressure on either side of the vise. @1:44 in, we see that you have your part on the right hand side of the vise so you can side mill it, but I don't see any packing or vise jack on the left hand side. I've done this in the past myself. Just how critical is this? Can you damage the vise? Will it cause problems with accuracy?
You know, I'd love to hear some input on this from someone who works at Kurt or one of the other vise companies, but in practice, I don't see any issues doing it this way. Logically speaking, if there was an issue with the jaw skewing to the side, the part would only be held on the corners toward the center of the vise. If that were the case, you'd see damage on your parts in that area where they are crushed by the jaws. You would also see a tendency for the part to lift off the parallels as it pivots on that small area of contact and I just don't see that. The movable jaw of the vise has a very long contact area (8.5" on the D688 here at work) and a fine fit to combat the potential to move in that direction, just like it has features that keep the jaw from lifting. I think in most cases, you would damage the part long before you would damage the vise. Great question! Thanks for watching!
I did a quick search and found a manual for a Kurt vise.
www.kurtworkholding.com/downloads/pdf/D675%20VISE_MANUAL%20English.pdf
Take a look at Page 6. The strange thing is, they don't say WHY.
BTW, Good Videos! May add this into a class for my Maker Space students.
Please feel free to add any of my videos to your class. I've taken a hour or so to write the great American novel in response to the Kurt manual. Here's a quote from that manual:
"To properly clamp a part in your Kurt vise you should place the part in the center of the jaws resting on the ways of the vise. Clamping only on one side or above the movable and stationary jaws can result in jaw lift or loss of accuracy."
The problem with this statement is that, in the real world, it just isn't conducive to machining a part when it is in the middle of the vise and not on parallels. There are very few parts that I have made in the past that could be practically made in that orientation. We need to be able to side mill parts. We need to be able to drill through them without damaging the vise. Quite a lot of parts are significantly thinner than the height of a set of vise jaws, so if we need to face them, they need to be on parallels, not the ways of the vise. Perhaps they mean that clamping a part in that position delivers the strongest clamping force to the part, but to say that otherwise the part is not properly clamped flies in the face of the huge number of parts made every day by people who are paying no attention to that statement and making their parts with no problem whatsoever.
Here's another quote:
"If one-sided clamping is necessary you MUST use a dummy part on the other side. When using parallels or step jaws you must select a size that keeps the bottom of the clamped part at or below the top of the movable and stationary jaws."
I have used dummy parts made from the same size stock in circumstances where the part is exceptionally short, but honestly, I can probably count the number of times I've done that without taking my socks off. Regarding the second half of that quote, I think Kurt might mean the actual cast iron portion of the jaw since they later talk about jaw plates, which I take to mean the hard jaws that do the clamping. Besides, how are you going to clamp something that is at or ABOVE the jaws. Unless my concept of workholding is flawed, that just isn't possible. Anyway, this is another circumstance where the necessities of the job take precedence over what the manual says. If it needs to be done to complete the job, then it needs to be done. That's my two cents. Please... discuss.