All good thanks for video.. Suggestion.. don't grease the rollers, Dirt and grime sticks to rollers which creates the flat spots.. Bearings should be greased from factory
use an angle grinder to grind the head off while its on the van, that way you dont have to remove main bracket and use loctite blue on the thread, mine came undone after a few months. By the way, nice series of videos!
Great helpful videos for us vivaro owners. Little suggestion though is the audio is a bit hard to hear your voice at some points. Keep up the great work
Mate---That drilling process- but no- really - Argggh! I've had it happen to me so many times when trying to remove a bolt or stud before. Glad it's not just me.
I have a 16 year old trafic mk2. The rollers are pretty good on it, I alternate spraying them periodically with wd40 and spray grease. I use the wd40 first and the use the doors for a few days and then hit the rollers eith the grease. Prevention is better than the cure but I am noticing some play in the most used door now. Not bad though for its age. I'll probably replace that one next year. Thanks for the video.
A 16 year old trafic is very good going so what's the mileage and has anything gone wrong? I love mine and was worried about buying one, but i love it. Btw my replacement roller is holding up well 🖒
@@fiveminuteman I can't tell you the fault history of the van. I've had it since late 2015. The turbo blew in a right royal fashion after I'd had it 4 months but we saved the engine. Having said that it suffers from power loss issues under load but it does start first turn of the key every time. I imagine that when the engine raced that it suffered piston ring wear and internal seals wear. I might be putting another engine in it next year, should solve that problem eh. I did have multiple warning lights alternating on the dash last winter and we found that a 24 pin multi plug in the engine bay fuse box was very sensitive. Just a wiggle was setting off random dash lights & the engine revved up & down on its own. We solved it by cutting the wires & crimping spade connectors individually. A nuisance but it worked. These vans are very well built with good solid chassi & panels, the door catches & other body hardware are pretty damn good too. I think that the over complicated French electrics (renault) are what can let these vans down. Great while it's running but a Pita if it goes wrong. Overall I would not buy another but since I'm stuck with mine I make the best of it. A nice drive, comfortable & smooth.
@@railinly610 wow that's a history and a half. Must admit the electrics do let it down and not sure mine still has the origional turbo, gearbox or engine lol. Mine has 158k on it now so fingers crossed for a few more years.
@@fiveminuteman I'd say that if you have a good one and you keep servicing it there's no reason why it won't keep going a lot longer. Mine had a gearbox change at 157k (fitted by a previous owner) and the mileage is still stuck on that reading because the gearbox they fitted was from a later model and didn't have the drive sensor. My van would have done in excess of 200k , maybe even a lot more, I'll just never know.
@@railinly610 amazingly i chose it over a VW T5. The T5's down here in devon are a ridiculous price. In the end i needed a bigger space inside as i converted it to a day van. The T5 was just a tad too small for what i wanted.
When the slide door is out of square, i don't think is the bottom roller fault. I think that the bottom bracket is out of square. So I solve it by adding two washers at the back of the bracket (between the bracket and the door) top nut. Easy.
Did that as well, without reading anything. It just made sense! Glad to see others found the same solution. Also, I don't understand why he greased the rollers as they are rubber covered and need to spin in the slide...
Most common issue that I found is that the top (roof slider) bracket is gettning loose or screw of middle rail is getting loose which makes very difficult to shot the door closed. If You wanna to change the roller please drill from underneitht because it is riveted from the bottom. If you drill away bottom part of shaft which is hammered then you will be able to extract shaft from the bracket without troubles.
I have to put pressure on the middle of my door at the back on the black plastic to get it to close, can be a pain sometimes, anyone any idea what the problem is please!?
Good video mate. Problem is that replacement rollers are not very good quality and doesn't last long .Original part's are so expensive and you can't buy these rollers on the own, you have to buy them with that arm.
my renault traffic sliding door locks,but there is still some movement in it as it keeps moving back by about a quarter inch when im driving along which sets the door light on....any ideas?
@@fiveminuteman really 😯 the one I bought off Ebay hasn't lasted that long lol, also found that the bolt supplied didnt fit properly, I had to drill the hole out to a bigger size to fit the circle side of the nut if that makes sense?
I watched this video to get my slider back on. nice job but!... you Doug yourself a hole. you don't have to go that length to do it. it took me ten minutes just grind the top nut down, hammer the pin out, NO NEED FOR A DRILL! doors still on, and then nut and bolt the new part onto it. works like a charm, no need for all that tlc.
Oh those Britney Spears designs of 2000s......so its non dismantable - you have to cut if off :D Ugh, will need to do that since my roller is not a roller - but an oval at this point, so door constantly falls out of the rail.
Dont use grease on the rollers, it makes them slip rather than, er, roll, wearing them out far quicker. You can get complete assemblies which are far better quality. With the outer trim, turn all those clips 90° and remove them, then put them back on the plastic trim, then simply offer it up to the door and push it back on.
All good thanks for video..
Suggestion.. don't grease the rollers, Dirt and grime sticks to rollers which creates the flat spots..
Bearings should be greased from factory
use an angle grinder to grind the head off while its on the van, that way you dont have to remove main bracket and use loctite blue on the thread, mine came undone after a few months. By the way, nice series of videos!
Jason Mills thanks Jason and always nice to have some feedback. I better go and check the bolt now ☺👍
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 very helpful.
God bless you.
Thank you 🙏
No problem 👍👍
good vid thanks, grind the old bolt off the side you drilled then use punch and hammer to get out, much easier
Thanks for making this, saved me a lot of trouble.
Great helpful videos for us vivaro owners. Little suggestion though is the audio is a bit hard to hear your voice at some points. Keep up the great work
Mate---That drilling process- but no- really - Argggh! I've had it happen to me so many times when trying to remove a bolt or stud before.
Glad it's not just me.
I have just been following along, is there space for the bottom roller wobble with the arm to the door in between? Thanks!
I have a 16 year old trafic mk2. The rollers are pretty good on it, I alternate spraying them periodically with wd40 and spray grease. I use the wd40 first and the use the doors for a few days and then hit the rollers eith the grease. Prevention is better than the cure but I am noticing some play in the most used door now. Not bad though for its age. I'll probably replace that one next year. Thanks for the video.
A 16 year old trafic is very good going so what's the mileage and has anything gone wrong? I love mine and was worried about buying one, but i love it. Btw my replacement roller is holding up well 🖒
@@fiveminuteman I can't tell you the fault history of the van. I've had it since late 2015. The turbo blew in a right royal fashion after I'd had it 4 months but we saved the engine. Having said that it suffers from power loss issues under load but it does start first turn of the key every time. I imagine that when the engine raced that it suffered piston ring wear and internal seals wear. I might be putting another engine in it next year, should solve that problem eh.
I did have multiple warning lights alternating on the dash last winter and we found that a 24 pin multi plug in the engine bay fuse box was very sensitive. Just a wiggle was setting off random dash lights & the engine revved up & down on its own. We solved it by cutting the wires & crimping spade connectors individually. A nuisance but it worked.
These vans are very well built with good solid chassi & panels, the door catches & other body hardware are pretty damn good too. I think that the over complicated French electrics (renault) are what can let these vans down. Great while it's running but a Pita if it goes wrong. Overall I would not buy another but since I'm stuck with mine I make the best of it. A nice drive, comfortable & smooth.
@@railinly610 wow that's a history and a half. Must admit the electrics do let it down and not sure mine still has the origional turbo, gearbox or engine lol. Mine has 158k on it now so fingers crossed for a few more years.
@@fiveminuteman I'd say that if you have a good one and you keep servicing it there's no reason why it won't keep going a lot longer. Mine had a gearbox change at 157k (fitted by a previous owner) and the mileage is still stuck on that reading because the gearbox they fitted was from a later model and didn't have the drive sensor. My van would have done in excess of 200k , maybe even a lot more, I'll just never know.
@@railinly610 amazingly i chose it over a VW T5. The T5's down here in devon are a ridiculous price. In the end i needed a bigger space inside as i converted it to a day van. The T5 was just a tad too small for what i wanted.
When the slide door is out of square, i don't think is the bottom roller fault. I think that the bottom bracket is out of square. So I solve it by adding two washers at the back of the bracket (between the bracket and the door) top nut.
Easy.
Did that as well, without reading anything. It just made sense! Glad to see others found the same solution.
Also, I don't understand why he greased the rollers as they are rubber covered and need to spin in the slide...
Thanks :)
Thanks mate great vid, I will have ago at mine this week 👌🏽
Thanks man..
Most common issue that I found is that the top (roof slider) bracket is gettning loose or screw of middle rail is getting loose which makes very difficult to shot the door closed. If You wanna to change the roller please drill from underneitht because it is riveted from the bottom. If you drill away bottom part of shaft which is hammered then you will be able to extract shaft from the bracket without troubles.
Thanks my main man .
No probs my friend
Great
I have to put pressure on the middle of my door at the back on the black plastic to get it to close, can be a pain sometimes, anyone any idea what the problem is please!?
Good video mate. Problem is that replacement rollers are not very good quality and doesn't last long .Original part's are so expensive and you can't buy these rollers on the own, you have to buy them with that arm.
Mine seem to still be going well. Always a gamble with ebay parts
my renault traffic sliding door locks,but there is still some movement in it as it keeps moving back by about a quarter inch when im driving along which sets the door light on....any ideas?
Try adjusting it where i did in this vid. Mine does what yours is doing.
Ok will do.so I just loosen the 3bolts on bracket,and move bracke back?
I've got a sliding door with a gap after been driven top roller has moment if press on door when open what do you suggest new top roller?
Try adjusting first before that
@@fiveminuteman Where's is it I need to adjust? Bottom one? It shuts lovely stationary when driven seems to open a little. Thanks for reply.
Is this roller an Ebay special or direct from renault/Vauxhall? I'm having major issues with my door sticking out about 10-15mm on this corner 🤯
Its an ebay one and still going strong.
@@fiveminuteman really 😯 the one I bought off Ebay hasn't lasted that long lol, also found that the bolt supplied didnt fit properly, I had to drill the hole out to a bigger size to fit the circle side of the nut if that makes sense?
@@MrShaunys1210 to be honest i thought mine wouldn't last. I'll check mine tomorrow to make sure its ok.
I watched this video to get my slider back on. nice job but!... you Doug yourself a hole. you don't have to go that length to do it. it took me ten minutes just grind the top nut down, hammer the pin out, NO NEED FOR A DRILL! doors still on, and then nut and bolt the new part onto it. works like a charm, no need for all that tlc.
Drilling and filming was time consuming and I didnt have a grinder so was the only option.
@@fiveminuteman aww thats fair enough. cheers for the video though mate I'm not good with repairs I just found my own way. peace x
Oh those Britney Spears designs of 2000s......so its non dismantable - you have to cut if off :D
Ugh, will need to do that since my roller is not a roller - but an oval at this point, so door constantly falls out of the rail.
Lol👍😎
Did u have to adjust this up and down after fitting.....please
Door did need a bit of adjustment after as central locking contacts didnt connect
And where did I adjust it from.....
Use thread lock on the 14mm nut.
Quicker hand grinder
Love a quick grind
Dont use grease on the rollers, it makes them slip rather than, er, roll, wearing them out far quicker.
You can get complete assemblies which are far better quality.
With the outer trim, turn all those clips 90° and remove them, then put them back on the plastic trim, then simply offer it up to the door and push it back on.
Cool
Tu mets pas la grise et après la poussière 👍
No problemo👍
don´t grease these rollers they will wearout faster caused by collecting a sh*t ton of dirt..
A
and sand for extra grinding😀
Don't grease the rollers...!!!!
They are designed to work dry.
OmG!😂