As far as I know, the bearing and bushing are the same across all Genesis coupes. Many people who race will just fill the stock one with urethane. The downside to that is if your stock one is sagging then it wont be good to fill it. Bearing replacement is simple though.
This is awesome my genny is actually down since I have to replace both flex couplers would like to wait longer till I install to see about also replacing the bearing brace part too
Thanks! I've been getting more interest on this part. I'm planning to prioritize my updates to it and see if it's realistic to make. The prototype was $$$ to get made.
Nice my brotha but huge favor I know they make a one piece aluminum driveshaft but I wonder if you can also make aluminum driveshaft coupler/ flex coupler replacement oem rubber coupler at least the rear one scene it takes most of the load this will be my second time replacing it lol
Any update on how it feels and drives? I would think the center support bearing needs to be able to flex a little bit in every direction due to chassis twisting and drivetrain components shifting a tiny bit. Either way, I am super interested in this, I may replace the roller bearing itself in about 2 weeks and was considering packing some 3M window weld urethane around the rubber part to stiffen it up. Thoughts?
I can't tell any additional NVH. But I have megan motor and trans mounts, 4 diff mounts, and my subframe mounts. They're all designed to retain a small amount of flex because it is a street car. I'm not sure if a stock car would get more NVH. I will test one with the updates I've made.
@@Weekend_Garage I’d love to have this upgrade option! Would it be feasible to remove the rubber mount from the bearing without damaging it if I wanted to replace the roller bearing and then add urethane to stiffen the rubber?
Removing it to fill with urethane would be feasible. I'm just not a big fan of this method. It has to be very clean and you should punch holes because in the event urethane delaminates from the rubberyou don't want to have it stuck and rattling around on the driveshaft. Also since it is directly mounted to the chassis it will transmit more NVH depending on the durometer you choose.
Thanks for the replies, if you dont mind me asking, I have a few more questions. In the absence of an aftermarket alternative like yours, or replacing the entire thing, my best option is to add some urethane to the rubber mount. I have almost 300k miles on it which is why I can imagine it is probably well worn and the bearing needs to be replaced as well. Punching holes through the rubber so the urethane stays attached is a good idea, thanks for mentioning. Looking at how you had the 3-arm jaw pulled to remove the OEM bearing from the sleeve, you already had the rubber mount removed...how would you suggest to go about removing the bearing from the sleeve without cutting the rubber off of it? And reinstalling the same way? Is this easily possible at home or would I need a shop to do it? @@Weekend_Garage
It's working well, but I've taken a step back from selling the parts that I make. At least for a while. If I find a partner that is willing to stock or sell parts on their website, then I may re-visit it.
Unfortunately they don't make replacement carrier bearings for the 3.8l so thank you for opening my mind as far as alternative options
As far as I know, the bearing and bushing are the same across all Genesis coupes. Many people who race will just fill the stock one with urethane. The downside to that is if your stock one is sagging then it wont be good to fill it. Bearing replacement is simple though.
😊 I need one please 🙏
If everything tests well on it, I will make more!
@Weekend_Garage make alot more because we all want one haha!
@weekend_garage what’s the update
This is awesome my genny is actually down since I have to replace both flex couplers would like to wait longer till I install to see about also replacing the bearing brace part too
Thanks! I've been getting more interest on this part. I'm planning to prioritize my updates to it and see if it's realistic to make. The prototype was $$$ to get made.
Nice my brotha but huge favor I know they make a one piece aluminum driveshaft but I wonder if you can also make aluminum driveshaft coupler/ flex coupler replacement oem rubber coupler at least the rear one scene it takes most of the load this will be my second time replacing it lol
And I have a bk 2.0t automatic
Over the winter I may put together a brief video on the couplers because it seems to be an often misunderstood part.
Ok awesome my brotha please keep sharing your knowledge much appreciated
can you make polyurethane bushings for our oem control arms front and rear?
That is on my list of things to make. However the rear LCA doesn't have a bushing, but all the other rear linkages do.
Any update on how it feels and drives?
I would think the center support bearing needs to be able to flex a little bit in every direction due to chassis twisting and drivetrain components shifting a tiny bit. Either way, I am super interested in this, I may replace the roller bearing itself in about 2 weeks and was considering packing some 3M window weld urethane around the rubber part to stiffen it up. Thoughts?
I can't tell any additional NVH. But I have megan motor and trans mounts, 4 diff mounts, and my subframe mounts. They're all designed to retain a small amount of flex because it is a street car. I'm not sure if a stock car would get more NVH. I will test one with the updates I've made.
@@Weekend_Garage I’d love to have this upgrade option! Would it be feasible to remove the rubber mount from the bearing without damaging it if I wanted to replace the roller bearing and then add urethane to stiffen the rubber?
Removing it to fill with urethane would be feasible. I'm just not a big fan of this method. It has to be very clean and you should punch holes because in the event urethane delaminates from the rubberyou don't want to have it stuck and rattling around on the driveshaft. Also since it is directly mounted to the chassis it will transmit more NVH depending on the durometer you choose.
Thanks for the replies, if you dont mind me asking, I have a few more questions.
In the absence of an aftermarket alternative like yours, or replacing the entire thing, my best option is to add some urethane to the rubber mount. I have almost 300k miles on it which is why I can imagine it is probably well worn and the bearing needs to be replaced as well. Punching holes through the rubber so the urethane stays attached is a good idea, thanks for mentioning.
Looking at how you had the 3-arm jaw pulled to remove the OEM bearing from the sleeve, you already had the rubber mount removed...how would you suggest to go about removing the bearing from the sleeve without cutting the rubber off of it? And reinstalling the same way? Is this easily possible at home or would I need a shop to do it? @@Weekend_Garage
hey any updates for driveshaft support i would like to purchase thanks in advance
Thank for your interest and apologies for my delayed response. I've taken a step back from selling any of the parts that I've designed.
Hey wassup brotha any news with the bushing kit?
It's working well, but I've taken a step back from selling the parts that I make. At least for a while.
If I find a partner that is willing to stock or sell parts on their website, then I may re-visit it.
Fuck yea bro , going to take orders ?
Thanks, I appreciate the enthusiasm. I need to make a couple refinements and do more testing. If there's enough interest I will make more!