Aluminum expands ~50% more than iron/steel when heated, it also contracts more as it cools down. Now, if you try to cast an aluminum part around a steel rod to have a hole in it... good luck with removing the rod )
Hi, before casting your aluminum, (or other), plan a mechanical system to vibrate the mold as you sink, as for vibrated concrete, the vibrations will strongly tamp your metal and prevent the formation of internal bubbles and other crevices. Good luck
Damn I never thought of combining the two processes, but if your metal is hot enough and you pour carefully I don't think that it is required. Make for a good experiment.
Not sure if it was done but preheating the mold might be a good idea aswell not only to stop it from causing uneven cooling but to remove possible moisture buildup causing an explosion and spraying molten aluminum out the top of the tube
For a tube that long you really need to preheat the mold. You can see where the first bit of the pour began to cool and solidify as it ran down to the bottom of the tube, and you can see that the bottom of the pour cooled much too quickly.
hiya BB, was noticing that you were looking at the inner weld seam on the square tube you used to cast the aluminum ingot. there is a way to remove that seam so you wont have that grove in your ingots... go look at fireball tool ... the guy there has a video on how to make a tool to remove that inner seam. its a handy dandy tool for sure =)
Very cool. After watching many of these diy casting videos makes me wonder about internal casting anomalies creating weak points in the structure. I still hope to try this some day.
Very cool idea. I just made some more arms for my homemade 2x72 and I also use tubing and had to add some weld around the arm to make it secure. This would have been a decent idea... though my forge isn't setup for casting this much aluminum. Good tip for the future. PS - I was surprised as well it came out so easily. Did you add anything on the inside first?
@@anotherguy9402 Sure you can, but then you’re wasting about 22% of your material to turn square stock down to a round of the same size. Even if the aluminum is free, the fuel to melt it isn’t, so a 22% material waste is a 22% waste of fuel. Not to mention the wasted time on the lathe.
@@sharmageddon2171 a 1x1 square obviously has an area of 1. A circle of a diameter of 1 is pi • r^2 which in this case works out to 0.78.... That makes figuring out the percentage easy as you’ve set 1 as 100 percent, and anything below the decimal automatically becomes the percentage. So a round bar of the same diameter has a surface area on the end of 78% of the square, or 22% less. As the length is irrelevant to this you don’t have to worry about the third dimension for these calculations at all.
Pro tip: Make sure to stock a good amount of square tubing all from the same batch if you’re gonna do something like this for this purpose. Sometimes the welds are in different places and thus new stock of the same dimension may not fit, without further modification.
Well that was a pleasant surprise. I did not expect the bar to release as easily as it appears it did. I would love to see you cast a shorter bar with the mold preheated to about 100-150 C. That way if it sticks it should be easier to melt out a short bar. Now I am really bummed that I don’t have a legitimate shop with some machine tools. Guess I will have to make do with my garage, a claw hammer and a hand drill...😕 And thank you for the tutorial on something that I had wondered about, your proof of concept was enlightening.
Might have come out easier and had less imperfections if you had smoked the inside of the mold with "lampblack" from a candle or acetylene flame before casting.
I wonder if it would be easier to get out of the tubing if you had a bolt sticking through the bottom plate that you ground off. That way you could probably pull the aluminum out when you knock the bottom plate off, and then unscrew it??
i just tried this with 1 1/2 inch dia. 3/16 wall tubing for some bar stock. It will not come out. have myself a solid bar now, looks like going to have to cut the pipe off the outside. tried a hand torch to heat it up, while loaded on a 20 ton shop press and no luck, I think i bent my shop press though... Did you coat your tube with anything, was it oil hardened first?? wax??
These long bars seem to come out pretty well, only a bit "lost" to shrink defect at the top. Have you tried making short, wide shapes (e.g. a 25mm thick 150mm dia disk) open faced into a steel mould? Just wondering how much would be usable.
I was wondering if you could do that with extruded steel.....now I know. Thank you for sharing your experiment it saved me time and materials. I will give this a try once my furnace is up and running. Thanks again....I thoroughly enjoy your channel you make some really cool things
Always preheat your form! this is a metal casting rule. If you don't not only steam bubbles can form in your casting and cause imprefection it can also splash and explode molten metal around. You never know if the mold is moist or has small ammounts of water on it even if it sits in a dry environment.
I think if you also heat the pipe a little before you bump it out it may compress the bilot enough so that when it cools you have an easier time wacking it out
Nice work. That shot of you cutting the bar on your band saw made me nervous. Thumbs were too close to the blade path for me. Maybe use a hardwood piece as support behind the piece being cut. To allow for hands further away from the blade path.
Hello, do you ever try including a red heated rebar just before casting aluminum? a 1/2' rebar centered in the tubing will give an extra strenght to the aluminum bar with only a little extra weight, and if you give a decent pre-heating to this rebar, (red hot) it will help a smoother casting by giving extra heat to melted aluminum, Try it ;-) --- Thanks for this vid ! Axelle.
Looks GREAT bud - NICELY _DONE_ !
All the BEST -
Chuck .
As a Dutch person, you had me at "free"
As an disabled person and on welfare, he had me too at "free". ;)
I’m Dutch and disabled. Proof that water seeks its own level.
He had me to I’m fricken poor
I'm not poor but this is definitely something I want to try out. Aluminium stock is crazy expensive here, but I can get tubes and profiles for free
I'm just a cheap MF. You had me at free too.
Now that came out of the form easiliy. Wasn't expecting that.
Yeah, I was wondering that myself.
Aluminum expands ~50% more than iron/steel when heated, it also contracts more as it cools down.
Now, if you try to cast an aluminum part around a steel rod to have a hole in it... good luck with removing the rod )
M. Mitchell Marmel shrinkage
you can cast it around a sand core, there are recipes for that purpose
it shrinks as it cools. falls right out.
Hi, before casting your aluminum, (or other), plan a mechanical system to vibrate the mold as you sink, as for vibrated concrete, the vibrations will strongly tamp your metal and prevent the formation of internal bubbles and other crevices. Good luck
Exlent idea
Damn I never thought of combining the two processes, but if your metal is hot enough and you pour carefully I don't think that it is required. Make for a good experiment.
Reciprocating saw without a blade, clamp the pipe to a bench and use the saw to rattle the bench
great idea, but i defenetly dont want a vibrating mold, when im pouring hot metal
Not sure if it was done but preheating the mold might be a good idea aswell not only to stop it from causing uneven cooling but to remove possible moisture buildup causing an explosion and spraying molten aluminum out the top of the tube
Happy I saw this video. I am going to be making round stock for coins. Been considering different ideas. I am going to try some black pipe.
Very cool idea!
For a tube that long you really need to preheat the mold. You can see where the first bit of the pour began to cool and solidify as it ran down to the bottom of the tube, and you can see that the bottom of the pour cooled much too quickly.
This is a very clever way to make a sliding tool arm! Brilliant!
Spectacular welds, I love your humor in showing it like that :D
I have been working a lot on the bench grinder this week. Video about that coming soon... Next week!
May I have your old belt grinder?
Black Beard Projects, Спасибо тебе!
Can't wait to see the build! Keep up the great content 👍
Looking forward to it!
Black Beard Projects how many KG of aluminium was that you poured In the steel tube? Love ya work 👌
I think that was a good idea that is what I call thinking outside the box
Excellent 👍👍👍. Thanks for sharing. Who needs to buy aluminum for projects? Melt scrap aluminum. COOL
hiya BB, was noticing that you were looking at the inner weld seam on the square tube you used to cast the aluminum ingot. there is a way to remove that seam so you wont have that grove in your ingots... go look at fireball tool ... the guy there has a video on how to make a tool to remove that inner seam. its a handy dandy tool for sure =)
I would like to recommend that you clean the inside of the mold and preheat it in order to get a more sound casting.
That is indeed a good idea for stock bar for a lathe
So simple idéal ! I never imagine it would be so easy to get the bar out of the tube...Thanks for tutorial
Awesome idea, thanks for sharing 👍👍👍
Thanks bro,so innovative
Nice idea 💡 👌
Pro tip: heat the metal tube 1st before pouring. You can tell the difference by looking at the results
Thanks for a great video!
What a cool idea.. bro... great job.
Very cool.
After watching many of these diy casting videos makes me wonder about internal casting anomalies creating weak points in the structure.
I still hope to try this some day.
Is it possible to cast t and v slotted Profile using ready made as reference?
After seeing how expensive that kind of aluminum is for the thickness I need I’m definitely wanting to do this
Very good👌💯🤔
Beautifull idea !
Very cool idea. I just made some more arms for my homemade 2x72 and I also use tubing and had to add some weld around the arm to make it secure. This would have been a decent idea... though my forge isn't setup for casting this much aluminum. Good tip for the future. PS - I was surprised as well it came out so easily. Did you add anything on the inside first?
What degassing material was used?
Brilliant idea. Thank you for your video :)
Whoa! Solid as a bell.
Very nicely done
Hey man, actually better than i expected. Good stuff!
thats one very fine idea!!
So much experience and you can see good
Great idea
Love your videos, you’ve gotten me into restoring tools I find at flea markets😂 Keep it up!👍
James W hope you follow Scout Crafter on you tube.
"That's what she said"...👍
Hello from France to you Italian friend and can't wait to see more of your project in the future ^_^
Why are you racist?
would be even more useful when cast in a round tube as a lathe stock. Nice idea!
I thought exactly the same thing.. however for what he needs to do with it is actually perfect..
I didn't know that you can't put a square bar in a lathe.....
@@anotherguy9402 Sure you can, but then you’re wasting about 22% of your material to turn square stock down to a round of the same size.
Even if the aluminum is free, the fuel to melt it isn’t, so a 22% material waste is a 22% waste of fuel. Not to mention the wasted time on the lathe.
@@Nevir202 how did u come up with the 22% figure? Math used to be my forte about a decade ago but I've lost touch and would love to know
@@sharmageddon2171 a 1x1 square obviously has an area of 1.
A circle of a diameter of 1 is pi • r^2 which in this case works out to 0.78....
That makes figuring out the percentage easy as you’ve set 1 as 100 percent, and anything below the decimal automatically becomes the percentage.
So a round bar of the same diameter has a surface area on the end of 78% of the square, or 22% less.
As the length is irrelevant to this you don’t have to worry about the third dimension for these calculations at all.
That's awesome. It seems like a good idea to make a inner weld bead removing tool for the 2 inch square tubing.
Or just buy seamless tubing lol
What a great idea! I did not think you would have been able to drive the aluminum mold from the square tubing
Great idea thanks for sharing I am going to be busy for a while now 😃
What a great idea!
Great proof of concept test!!!
Excellent.
Can’t wait for the new belt grinder!!!
High
Looks like the bars came out great! Cool stuff man, can't wait to see the new grinder project!
Pro tip:
Make sure to stock a good amount of square tubing all from the same batch if you’re gonna do something like this for this purpose.
Sometimes the welds are in different places and thus new stock of the same dimension may not fit, without further modification.
very good.
Great video and idea, thank you!
nice clip. What did you put in the liquid aluminium to clean out?
Well that was a pleasant surprise. I did not expect the bar to release as easily as it appears it did. I would love to see you cast a shorter bar with the mold preheated to about 100-150 C. That way if it sticks it should be easier to melt out a short bar. Now I am really bummed that I don’t have a legitimate shop with some machine tools. Guess I will have to make do with my garage, a claw hammer and a hand drill...😕 And thank you for the tutorial on something that I had wondered about, your proof of concept was enlightening.
Might have come out easier and had less imperfections if you had smoked the inside of the mold with "lampblack" from a candle or acetylene flame before casting.
my favorite part was watching you beat it out
Thank you for sharing, good work for what you have available, wishing you success for the rest of the project at hand, have a nice day.
I wonder if it would be easier to get out of the tubing if you had a bolt sticking through the bottom plate that you ground off.
That way you could probably pull the aluminum out when you knock the bottom plate off, and then unscrew it??
New tooling arm for the grinder- great idea.
i just tried this with 1 1/2 inch dia. 3/16 wall tubing for some bar stock. It will not come out. have myself a solid bar now, looks like going to have to cut the pipe off the outside. tried a hand torch to heat it up, while loaded on a 20 ton shop press and no luck, I think i bent my shop press though... Did you coat your tube with anything, was it oil hardened first?? wax??
Hola buen trabajo, quiero saber que le echas después de sacar la escoria?
Resourceful; kudos.
Just awesome man!
Thank you for sharing!
I love this videos
first video ive seen of yours. this is an awesome iea, thanks for this! makes me excited to make some cool things.
Oh, verry nice
Wonderfull
I'm instinctively shielding my eyes from the welder LOL it's a video
Stra figo sto video fra !!
Great idea....looking forward to your grinder build.
Looking forward to the build 👍👍
Excellent vid - What do you use for flux. Thank you
Cool video and walkthrough.
Can you tell me about the welding device used to secure the foot to the steel tube/mold, please?
Thank you
Cant wait to see your future project with alluminium !
These long bars seem to come out pretty well, only a bit "lost" to shrink defect at the top. Have you tried making short, wide shapes (e.g. a 25mm thick 150mm dia disk) open faced into a steel mould? Just wondering how much would be usable.
I was wondering if you could do that with extruded steel.....now I know. Thank you for sharing your experiment it saved me time and materials. I will give this a try once my furnace is up and running. Thanks again....I thoroughly enjoy your channel you make some really cool things
جيد
Always preheat your form! this is a metal casting rule. If you don't not only steam bubbles can form in your casting and cause imprefection it can also splash and explode molten metal around. You never know if the mold is moist or has small ammounts of water on it even if it sits in a dry environment.
ingenious,
Didn't heat the profile and then pour aluminum to minimize cracks?
How strong is the bar? How much compression or tension it can withstand?
Thanks bro
Italiano? OMG! Bellissimo joby, my friend :D
Good job. What powder is added in 2:17?
What did you salvage for aluminium stock to melt down?
It looks like solid round or square bar?
This video was Oddly Satisfying to watch 👍 thank you for another great and informative video 😁
@2:15 what did you flux with? and was that salt?
First thing I thought of, perfect toolbar for a belt grinder 😁
Did you do anything to prep the tubing before the pour?
Like clean it up with something or smoke the inside tube with soot?
I think if you also heat the pipe a little before you bump it out it may compress the bilot enough so that when it cools you have an easier time wacking it out
That was pretty cool to see, thanks for sharing :D
Is there a way to make it less porous at the end?
I wonder if you could add Molten titanium to the aluminum?
Nice work. That shot of you cutting the bar on your band saw made me nervous. Thumbs were too close to the blade path for me. Maybe use a hardwood piece as support behind the piece being cut. To allow for hands further away from the blade path.
4:55 *little girl screaming at the dentist*
Very good 👍
Great job. Cheers
Hello, do you ever try including a red heated rebar just before casting aluminum? a 1/2' rebar centered in the tubing will give an extra strenght to the aluminum bar with only a little extra weight, and if you give a decent pre-heating to this rebar, (red hot) it will help a smoother casting by giving extra heat to melted aluminum, Try it ;-) --- Thanks for this vid ! Axelle.
Молодец. Вдохновляет!!!
The grinder sound at 5 minutes drove my dog crazy....
Genius! Would it work similarly with Copper, Bronze, Brass etc?
Hey what’s the welder you’re using?
Nicely scrounged! :D