Thank you, Ken. The HyperStar is like getting a new telescope ... well for the cost of it, it is just about the same price! But it works well. Clear Skies
Timing is everything, Doug ... Ha. You're going to love it. If you have the option to get the hood, or if you already have one, it makes it much easier in making flat-frames. Enjoy your new addition. Let us all know when you buy it so we'll know where all the clouds will be within a hundred miles of your location. Again, Ha. Clear skies.
Thank you, Bill. Yes, it is a great combination, but when you think of it, that HyperSta cost more than a medium size telescope! But it make a good system even "gooder". Clear Skies
Well we do need rain in NE Ga but I have been able to image 2 nights this week. When I began AP it was so confusing imaging M42 using a M42 adapter! Here you are imaging M8 using a M42 to M54 adapter, WHAT? I've never seen anyone teaching newbies explaining that. Another great video you have produced. Thanks, Tim
Thanks, Tim. I hope you got a lot of data those few nights as an extended rain system is setting in over the SE US. I have been blown away with that ToupTek SkyEye24 full frame camera. With the large sensor size, it needs thata M54 thread. I was a bit nervous when I had to reduce it down to M42, but hey, it WORKED! Clear Skies ... well wishful thinking.
Loved the video! With regards to WBPP, a good NVidea GPU and hardware acceleration is the key. I have processed 200+ 60sec images in WBPP with full calibration and 2x drizzle in under an hour, and I don't have a "monster" system. Investing in a good video card can make ALL the difference.
Yep. I have the GeForce RTX 3060 installed. It decrease the rendering time by at least 10x. It particularly comes in handy using RT Astro's BlurXTerminator. Clear Skies
That's mind blowing to see that wide a field of view coming from an 11 inch scope. I'd love to see what the Sadr region looks like in your setup. Great video.👍🏾
Great video Pat! I love your edge hd11, wow, 1.8 that’s amazing! I’m wondering what guide camera and scope you’re using? Obviously you can’t use an OAG as you said, my other question is, if you weren’t using the Starizona, would you have a bigger guide scope at 2800? I’m debating whether to go OAG or guide scope and my little ZWO 120 mini with my Mead 2000mm ! That Altair filter is great! I’m looking at some more Altair gear now😀 Fantastic images as always! Thanks Pat, clear skies!
Hi Simon, Thanks. I have the Celestron StarSense Autoguider and it works like a champ on all f-ratios. However, it only works on Celestron mounts. The ZWO 120 mini with a 240mm guide scope and PHD2 should work, I would think. Oh, and about that wish for "clear skies", why thank you, but it looks like an extended rain/cloud system is settling into our region for the next few weeks! Knowing that, I played around with the North America Nebula and the Cocoon Nebula last night. I haven't processed the images yet, but the sub-frames looked good. Here's my wish to you ... Clear Skies, Simon
Excellent images and congrats on the hyperstar Pat! Although I use WBPP, it does take much longer than DSS for some reason. Do you have a video where you do a 'quick' set up of using the advanced sequencer in NINA? I usually make a setup in the basic sequencer and leave it or sometimes I switch it to the advanced . I like you progamed it to do a quick check every 30 minutes to make sure it has not drifted off. PS. your garden looks wonderful. Cheers Kurt
Hi Kurt, and thank you. I have a somewhat recent video showing how I use the Advanced Sequencer in NINA ... here is the link: th-cam.com/video/sc-Vtv1XzxQ/w-d-xo.html. That image-drift routine is great. It does a quick plate-solve when it is called. You can designate how much deviation from the center in arc minutes to trigger it. It defaults to 10' but I bump it down to 3'. It's a plug-in, one of many, including RoboCopy, which I love. RoboCopy sends each new subframe to my network server as they arrive. Clear Skies, Kurt
Been using that set up for a while over 8 mons. Great. 20 sec exposures all you need. Give up a lot of image size as opposed to F7. Using 2600mc pro. They told me full frame displays a lot of vignetting. I would be interested to hear your take on it. Be nice to pick up the image size like displayed at f7
There is vignetting, but using flats and now with those great gradient removal tools, most of the frame is usable, just about to the edges. Yes, the needed exposure time is much less.
Thanks, David. The mini-computer that I use outside attached to the rig is just a Window11-Pro generic. In this case, it is the Blackview brand, but any will do as long as they have decent speed, RAM, and WiFi. I load all the software needed on the mini-computer ... CPWI, ASCOM, NINA, and PHD2. I also have ASTAP and the star data base loaded for use for Plate-solving.
Incredible image, fantastic detail. HyperStar sure brings a new dimension to imaging with big scopes. Do you think you'll be re-configuring your setup depending on the target you'll be wanting to shoot, or will you leave the HyperStar on and run through the gamut of wide-field targets before switching out the HyperStar for longer focal length imaging - i.e. how much of a pain is it to switch setups?
I will continue to use the scope with the different f/ratios ... f/10, f/7, and f/2. It's quite easy to change it to the desired focal length. The most difficult part is in balancing the scope. At 11", there is plenty of weight to push or pull along the dove plates. I would say it takes 10 to 15 minutes to switch from one to the other. Clear Skies
I would imagine it would work just fine. I have seen other videos with people using it on the 8, providing it is design for hyperstar. I think there are different versions. Definitely check with the supplier to see if your system is compatible.
When adding the Hyperstar and reducing from M54 to M42 does that obstruct the large camera sensor? Do you have to collimate the Hyperstar every time you install it. How does the Savannah heat and humidity affect your mount, OTA and accessories when you leave them out side for extended periods ever though they are covered? Thanks.
I do get some vignetting from M54 to M48, but taking flats greatly reduces that effect in post-processing. I find that you don't need to collimate every time you swap out from the Hyperstar to back to native state, but I do look to make sure all is fine before I start my session. The rig holds up well, however, I do bring in the mini-computer and camera. I live near the coast and there is a bit of salt in the air, and I have noticed some corrosion on the USB cables that are left outside, even under cover. The OTA seems fine. Plus, I don't need to worry about temperature adjustment since the OTA is already at equilibrium to the environment. I cover my OTA with a large beach towel first, then put the 365 insulated cover over it to protect it from the elements. The only time I dismantle the rig is during hurricane threats.
Thank you for the excellent video, which made me confused, why does everyone who owns a hyperstar make it a simple installation!!!??? Why don't you provide a full explanation for it,,, You make this part easy and simple when it is completely different,,, It is extremely difficult, I hope I don't find anyone who says to contact the responsible company!! I didn't hear from them anything but (measuring the hyperstar) Correct!!!! Oh my God,,, I didn't find the answer to the focus, I didn't find the answer to the tilt of the hyperstar,,, I think and I may be somewhat certain that F2 is the core of the problem and not the focus or the telescope and so on,,, The hyperstar needs a solution to more than one problem, who can solve it??
You hit the nail on the head. I only presented what I know and have learned by using it. Fortunately for me, the HyperStarHD was pretty much at the correct back focal length for the cameras that I use and the tilt seems okay. Changing the back focus requires special spacers. As for tilt, I am happy with the way it is and am intimidated at trying to use the adjustment screws in thinking I would mess it up. It comes down to ... "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" ... for me. Clear Skies
please use gloves for filters and the optics 🧐 it makes me a little nervoushaha. p.s. hyperstar vs Night Owl - .4x SCT Reducer / Corrector ..wonder about the cons and pros of those.
I have an 8" with Hyperstar and love it. I really want a Night Owl as well. Starizona has been working on a new version for over two years now. I live in Tucson and every time I go in I ask about it and they say they're still trying to get it right. They are very picky about the quality and want to make sure it's right before release. The thing about the Night Owl is you have to use a rather small sensor with it. I have the 533MC Pro with it's one inch square sensor and it will work well but the larger sensors wont. With the Hyperstar, Night Owl , the .63 reducer corrector and a barlow I'll have the choice of F1.9, F4, F7, F10 and f20. Can't get much more versatile than that.
I have considered Hyperstar or RASA scopes. Borrowed it for 2-3 weeks to try. I am glad I did. System is almost awful, just as Edge itself, which I own. Now, why I have such negative opinions about these pair. These scopes show muted color of stars and muted color of any DSO. For example, let’s look at lagoon nebula. It should have beautiful star cluster consisting from blue and red-orange stars, lagoon itself should be sapphire color. Around lagoon orange color transiting into reddish-brown, which slowly disappears into black space. It is heavenly lagoon! Right? Celestron with its creations show none of these. Instead, we have white stars, lateral chromatism , forced over processing every picture, blotting stars, diffused to unpleasant shape, etc. I could probably be forever delusional that it is great-good enough. But, I happened to bought Tak Epsilon and it just broke to pieces all delusions. After first picture, it was clear. Sheeit! I have just been waisting my time with Celestron creations.
Hi Ana, Well, it is quite obvious you are not a fan of Celestron's products, but thanks for your comments. I will keep that Tak Epsilon in mind if I ever plan for a new scope. Clear Skies.
Another great video Pat! Congrats on the Hyperstar, definitely adding to my wish list.
Thank you, Ken.
The HyperStar is like getting a new telescope ... well for the cost of it, it is just about the same price! But it works well.
Clear Skies
Thank you Pat.
Thanks for watching my video, Ron
Thx Pat
Comes at a good time for me. I'm adding a hyperstar with my 11" SCT.
Doug
Timing is everything, Doug ... Ha.
You're going to love it. If you have the option to get the hood, or if you already have one, it makes it much easier in making flat-frames.
Enjoy your new addition. Let us all know when you buy it so we'll know where all the clouds will be within a hundred miles of your location. Again, Ha.
Clear skies.
I like your last comment processing skills i don’t have cant put my head in it thk you for sharing
Thank you, David
Wonderful video Pat!! This gives me something to think about with my own edge 11 - much appreciated! 👍👍
Thanks, Luke.
You would LOVE the HperStar for your 11" EdgeHD
Clear Skies, Luke
Congrats on the Hyperstar Pat! I also have an Edge 11 and Hyperstar and absolutely love it! Keep posting more vids 😎
Thank you, Bill.
Yes, it is a great combination, but when you think of it, that HyperSta cost more than a medium size telescope! But it make a good system even "gooder".
Clear Skies
Well we do need rain in NE Ga but I have been able to image 2 nights this week. When I began AP it was so confusing imaging M42 using a M42 adapter! Here you are imaging M8 using a M42 to M54 adapter, WHAT? I've never seen anyone teaching newbies explaining that. Another great video you have produced. Thanks, Tim
Thanks, Tim.
I hope you got a lot of data those few nights as an extended rain system is setting in over the SE US. I have been blown away with that ToupTek SkyEye24 full frame camera. With the large sensor size, it needs thata M54 thread. I was a bit nervous when I had to reduce it down to M42, but hey, it WORKED!
Clear Skies ... well wishful thinking.
Loved the video! With regards to WBPP, a good NVidea GPU and hardware acceleration is the key. I have processed 200+ 60sec images in WBPP with full calibration and 2x drizzle in under an hour, and I don't have a "monster" system. Investing in a good video card can make ALL the difference.
Yep. I have the GeForce RTX 3060 installed. It decrease the rendering time by at least 10x. It particularly comes in handy using RT Astro's BlurXTerminator.
Clear Skies
@@HeavenlyBackyardAstronomy That's the same GPU I have. Really made a difference in the time it takes to process my images. Cheers! 🙂
That's mind blowing to see that wide a field of view coming from an 11 inch scope. I'd love to see what the Sadr region looks like in your setup.
Great video.👍🏾
Thank you.
I was playing around with the North America and the Cocoon nebulae last night. I haven't processed the data yet, but the subs looked good.
Great video Pat! I love your edge hd11, wow, 1.8 that’s amazing! I’m wondering what guide camera and scope you’re using? Obviously you can’t use an OAG as you said, my other question is, if you weren’t using the Starizona, would you have a bigger guide scope at 2800? I’m debating whether to go OAG or guide scope and my little ZWO 120 mini with my Mead 2000mm ! That Altair filter is great! I’m looking at some more Altair gear now😀 Fantastic images as always! Thanks Pat, clear skies!
Hi Simon,
Thanks.
I have the Celestron StarSense Autoguider and it works like a champ on all f-ratios. However, it only works on Celestron mounts. The ZWO 120 mini with a 240mm guide scope and PHD2 should work, I would think.
Oh, and about that wish for "clear skies", why thank you, but it looks like an extended rain/cloud system is settling into our region for the next few weeks! Knowing that, I played around with the North America Nebula and the Cocoon Nebula last night. I haven't processed the images yet, but the sub-frames looked good.
Here's my wish to you ... Clear Skies, Simon
@@HeavenlyBackyardAstronomy Thanks for info Pat! Hope the NAB & Cocoon comes out well mate! Clear skies 👍
Excellent images and congrats on the hyperstar Pat! Although I use WBPP, it does take much longer than DSS for some reason. Do you have a video where you do a 'quick' set up of using the advanced sequencer in NINA? I usually make a setup in the basic sequencer and leave it or sometimes I switch it to the advanced . I like you progamed it to do a quick check every 30 minutes to make sure it has not drifted off. PS. your garden looks wonderful. Cheers Kurt
Hi Kurt, and thank you.
I have a somewhat recent video showing how I use the Advanced Sequencer in NINA ... here is the link: th-cam.com/video/sc-Vtv1XzxQ/w-d-xo.html.
That image-drift routine is great. It does a quick plate-solve when it is called. You can designate how much deviation from the center in arc minutes to trigger it. It defaults to 10' but I bump it down to 3'. It's a plug-in, one of many, including RoboCopy, which I love. RoboCopy sends each new subframe to my network server as they arrive.
Clear Skies, Kurt
@@HeavenlyBackyardAstronomy Thanks fore the info Pat!
Been using that set up for a while over 8 mons. Great. 20 sec exposures all you need. Give up a lot of image size as opposed to F7. Using 2600mc pro. They told me full frame displays a lot of vignetting. I would be interested to hear your take on it. Be nice to pick up the image size like displayed at f7
There is vignetting, but using flats and now with those great gradient removal tools, most of the frame is usable, just about to the edges. Yes, the needed exposure time is much less.
Very nice Pat, what minicomputer do you have running cpwi on the scope?
Thanks, David.
The mini-computer that I use outside attached to the rig is just a Window11-Pro generic. In this case, it is the Blackview brand, but any will do as long as they have decent speed, RAM, and WiFi. I load all the software needed on the mini-computer ... CPWI, ASCOM, NINA, and PHD2. I also have ASTAP and the star data base loaded for use for Plate-solving.
Incredible image, fantastic detail. HyperStar sure brings a new dimension to imaging with big scopes. Do you think you'll be re-configuring your setup depending on the target you'll be wanting to shoot, or will you leave the HyperStar on and run through the gamut of wide-field targets before switching out the HyperStar for longer focal length imaging - i.e. how much of a pain is it to switch setups?
I will continue to use the scope with the different f/ratios ... f/10, f/7, and f/2. It's quite easy to change it to the desired focal length. The most difficult part is in balancing the scope. At 11", there is plenty of weight to push or pull along the dove plates. I would say it takes 10 to 15 minutes to switch from one to the other.
Clear Skies
I wounder how a Hyperstar would work on my SE8. Thank you for the tutorial.
I would imagine it would work just fine. I have seen other videos with people using it on the 8, providing it is design for hyperstar. I think there are different versions. Definitely check with the supplier to see if your system is compatible.
When adding the Hyperstar and reducing from M54 to M42 does that obstruct the large camera sensor? Do you have to collimate the Hyperstar every time you install it. How does the Savannah heat and humidity affect your mount, OTA and accessories when you leave them out side for extended periods ever though they are covered?
Thanks.
I do get some vignetting from M54 to M48, but taking flats greatly reduces that effect in post-processing. I find that you don't need to collimate every time you swap out from the Hyperstar to back to native state, but I do look to make sure all is fine before I start my session. The rig holds up well, however, I do bring in the mini-computer and camera. I live near the coast and there is a bit of salt in the air, and I have noticed some corrosion on the USB cables that are left outside, even under cover. The OTA seems fine. Plus, I don't need to worry about temperature adjustment since the OTA is already at equilibrium to the environment.
I cover my OTA with a large beach towel first, then put the 365 insulated cover over it to protect it from the elements. The only time I dismantle the rig is during hurricane threats.
Thank you for the excellent video, which made me confused, why does everyone who owns a hyperstar make it a simple installation!!!??? Why don't you provide a full explanation for it,,, You make this part easy and simple when it is completely different,,, It is extremely difficult, I hope I don't find anyone who says to contact the responsible company!! I didn't hear from them anything but (measuring the hyperstar) Correct!!!! Oh my God,,, I didn't find the answer to the focus, I didn't find the answer to the tilt of the hyperstar,,, I think and I may be somewhat certain that F2 is the core of the problem and not the focus or the telescope and so on,,, The hyperstar needs a solution to more than one problem, who can solve it??
You hit the nail on the head. I only presented what I know and have learned by using it. Fortunately for me, the HyperStarHD was pretty much at the correct back focal length for the cameras that I use and the tilt seems okay. Changing the back focus requires special spacers. As for tilt, I am happy with the way it is and am intimidated at trying to use the adjustment screws in thinking I would mess it up. It comes down to ... "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" ... for me.
Clear Skies
please use gloves for filters and the optics 🧐 it makes me a little nervoushaha. p.s. hyperstar vs Night Owl - .4x SCT Reducer / Corrector ..wonder about the cons and pros of those.
I have an 8" with Hyperstar and love it. I really want a Night Owl as well. Starizona has been working on a new version for over two years now. I live in Tucson and every time I go in I ask about it and they say they're still trying to get it right. They are very picky about the quality and want to make sure it's right before release. The thing about the Night Owl is you have to use a rather small sensor with it. I have the 533MC Pro with it's one inch square sensor and it will work well but the larger sensors wont. With the Hyperstar, Night Owl , the .63 reducer corrector and a barlow I'll have the choice of F1.9, F4, F7, F10 and f20. Can't get much more versatile than that.
Oops ... sorry about the no gloves. Unfortunetly, I don't have any knowledge of the Night Owl Reducer
I have considered Hyperstar or RASA scopes. Borrowed it for 2-3 weeks to try. I am glad I did. System is almost awful, just as Edge itself, which I own.
Now, why I have such negative opinions about these pair. These scopes show muted color of stars and muted color of any DSO. For example, let’s look at lagoon nebula. It should have beautiful star cluster consisting from blue and red-orange stars, lagoon itself should be sapphire color. Around lagoon orange color transiting into reddish-brown, which slowly disappears into black space. It is heavenly lagoon! Right? Celestron with its creations show none of these. Instead, we have white stars, lateral chromatism , forced over processing every picture, blotting stars, diffused to unpleasant shape, etc.
I could probably be forever delusional that it is great-good enough. But, I happened to bought Tak Epsilon and it just broke to pieces all delusions. After first picture, it was clear. Sheeit! I have just been waisting my time with Celestron creations.
Hi Ana,
Well, it is quite obvious you are not a fan of Celestron's products, but thanks for your comments. I will keep that Tak Epsilon in mind if I ever plan for a new scope.
Clear Skies.
Nie edition.
Thank you