You should be loading the car to ride height before tightening all the bolts to factory specs when working with suspension parts that move with the road
As soon as I saw that on the vijeo I came down to the comment section to look for it. I am pretty sure it's a stretch bolt and I would not reuse the old one myself
I was about to add exactly same comment but I saw yours. You are right, anytime you see torque + degrees will tell you that bolt should be new. Anyway good video. Little feedback, maybe concentrate camera more on the job rather then mechanic.
I wanna thank the people that commented about ride height. I did NOT know and will be fully replacing my suspension/control arms this weekend. Thats knowledge I will be needing. I do wanna note thought that he's using arms with soherical bearings, they dont need to be torqued at ride height. They adjust accordingly on their own. As for re-using bolts, I cant speak for that, I can tell you tho, with the amount I spent on arms/bearings, tie rods, axles, ball joints, steering knuckles and a Bilstein plus other speacialty tools I did not account for needing(plus alignment when the job is done) I am sure as hell re-using mine as well cos I have zero interest in throwing another $200+ in bolts
Given these guys are a major seller of parts, I am surprised at the lack of actual procedure to install these parts. They are re-using bolts that are torque to yield (throw away) of which they sell replacements for! Also never torque the suspension bolts at full droop like they do here or you will be replacing your bushings again in a short time and have noises you don't like. I can appreciate the general guidance on a VW multilink rear but man, are they doing the shade tree youtube watcher a dis-service by not doing it by the book which will end up causing ppl problems.
When do you torque the bolts? Should the car be on the ground? Or the side you're working on be on the ground? I'm doing this job on mine this weekend, this is good to know brother ty
When you put the trailing arm back in the cup and tighten the bolt should you still be able to move the arm up and down without it bouncing back or making the installing of the cup awkward because the arm is pushing the cup out of position. Would this be due to over tightening the bolt should the arm move up and down without springing back into the position that was achieved when the cup bolt was tightened?
For the trailing arms, if the bushing is the only difference, why replace the entire arm and bushing, rather than just replacing the bushings? It's much cheaper to just buy the bushings isn't it? Could you make a video that shows how to replace just the bushings on an MQB platform Audi or VW?
Question about the the rear camber arm. In order to adjust the camber if the length is far away from proper setting, it needs to remove the wheel + remove the outer mounting bolt of the camber arm . Am I right?
At 17:30 in the top right corner is the factory eccentric toe adjustment bolt on the inner end of the spring mounting arm - why wouldn't you just use this? Also, is the camber arm adjustable in situ? looks like you have to remove it to adjust? Thanks.
Hi Benjamin, we have two different kits that accomplish that. This: www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-bushing-powerflex-pf85k-1008 And this: www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-bushing-powerflex-pf85k-1007 The difference is in the engine mount style. If you look at the photos you can determine which one matches your car.
Any response, looking for the same as you for Mk5 gti due to inner wear on rear tyre. Suspect it's bushings worn but will replace parts with adjustable. Thks
You may drive in that pin out of that rivet look like buttering a slice of bread. Not so at my place. Of course mine is a 2007 rabbit with 200,000 miles on it and it's never been replaced.
![How to change rear suspension arm / rear control arm on VW GOLF 5 (1K1) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1O4vMzjKS_s/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to change rear suspension arm / rear control arm on VW GOLF 5 (1K1) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](/img/tr.png)
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
You should be loading the car to ride height before tightening all the bolts to factory specs when working with suspension parts that move with the road
What I appreciate about this how to video, is that they used simple hand tools only.
Question. 90nm + 90degrees tells me we are working with a stretch bolt. Wouldn't you want to replace it?
As soon as I saw that on the vijeo I came down to the comment section to look for it. I am pretty sure it's a stretch bolt and I would not reuse the old one myself
Also, using a torque wrench to do the "+90 degrees"... Cringe :)
I was about to add exactly same comment but I saw yours. You are right, anytime you see torque + degrees will tell you that bolt should be new.
Anyway good video. Little feedback, maybe concentrate camera more on the job rather then mechanic.
I wanna thank the people that commented about ride height. I did NOT know and will be fully replacing my suspension/control arms this weekend. Thats knowledge I will be needing. I do wanna note thought that he's using arms with soherical bearings, they dont need to be torqued at ride height. They adjust accordingly on their own. As for re-using bolts, I cant speak for that, I can tell you tho, with the amount I spent on arms/bearings, tie rods, axles, ball joints, steering knuckles and a Bilstein plus other speacialty tools I did not account for needing(plus alignment when the job is done) I am sure as hell re-using mine as well cos I have zero interest in throwing another $200+ in bolts
Given these guys are a major seller of parts, I am surprised at the lack of actual procedure to install these parts. They are re-using bolts that are torque to yield (throw away) of which they sell replacements for! Also never torque the suspension bolts at full droop like they do here or you will be replacing your bushings again in a short time and have noises you don't like. I can appreciate the general guidance on a VW multilink rear but man, are they doing the shade tree youtube watcher a dis-service by not doing it by the book which will end up causing ppl problems.
When do you torque the bolts? Should the car be on the ground? Or the side you're working on be on the ground? I'm doing this job on mine this weekend, this is good to know brother ty
Absolutely amazing bro thanks for this video!!
When you put the trailing arm back in the cup and tighten the bolt should you still be able to move the arm up and down without it bouncing back or making the installing of the cup awkward because the arm is pushing the cup out of position. Would this be due to over tightening the bolt should the arm move up and down without springing back into the position that was achieved when the cup bolt was tightened?
For the trailing arms, if the bushing is the only difference, why replace the entire arm and bushing, rather than just replacing the bushings? It's much cheaper to just buy the bushings isn't it? Could you make a video that shows how to replace just the bushings on an MQB platform Audi or VW?
Question about the the rear camber arm. In order to adjust the camber if the length is far away from proper setting, it needs to remove the wheel + remove the outer mounting bolt of the camber arm . Am I right?
I would think just loosen the two nuts on the camber arm and rotate the center threaded rod to desired specification.
Great parts! Ehat about NVH level on daily basis?!
I hope he used all new stretch bolts!
At 17:30 in the top right corner is the factory eccentric toe adjustment bolt on the inner end of the spring mounting arm
- why wouldn't you just use this? Also, is the camber arm adjustable in situ? looks like you have to remove it to adjust? Thanks.
For those without a lift; image doing this laying on your back.... :(
Don’t have to imagine
Word. I have to do this job again since the stretch bolt came loose, going to a DIY shop this time.
Dear , do this fits on any mqb? For example Skoda Superb mk3?
Does anyone make some inserts for that bushing instead of replacing the arm with a spherical bearing which would die in salty winters?
Hi Benjamin, we have two different kits that accomplish that.
This: www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-bushing-powerflex-pf85k-1008 And this: www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-bushing-powerflex-pf85k-1007
The difference is in the engine mount style. If you look at the photos you can determine which one matches your car.
There are a few companies that make the bushing out of polyurethane, Nolathane, Super Pro and I think Energy Suspension off the top of my head.
wait so vw used the same reaar suspension on mk5,6 and 7? i have a mk6 and its identical
👀
Where can I get a trailing arms with this bearing for a mk5 golf please?
Any response, looking for the same as you for Mk5 gti due to inner wear on rear tyre. Suspect it's bushings worn but will replace parts with adjustable. Thks
Didn't get a reply .
Dd
@@peterdodd8883 did some further looking and seems you can buy from 034 Motorsport
Nate use a light next time. No one can see anything.
You may drive in that pin out of that rivet look like buttering a slice of bread. Not so at my place. Of course mine is a 2007 rabbit with 200,000 miles on it and it's never been replaced.