Great explanation of the work involved with the installation of new guides, machining the oil-seal down, and getting the new valves ground and fitted.. Great work sir!!!
I do think I should say more. Before you pandemic I was never a TH-cam watcher. I started looking for and watching TH-cam standing in my garage at an old iMac, I am an IT guy and sit all day. I found you and have watched most of your videos and learned lots. Between you and ViceGrip Garage, and VG friend channels I found relief. I found you very informative and instructive. It was a heck of a 2020 summer, fall, and winter for all and I thank you for your maybe unknowingly support. Again Thank You. Regards Brad
Thanks, I forgot what casting number I had. 427 is a no brainer. My friend was totally happy with his 325hp 396 build with the 787's. Ran smooth all the way to California and back. Since he ran a Q-jet it was a functional near # match with the $50 back of a truck barn find. The Long block. Only needed 10/10 polish. Seats and some guides. Very slight ridge so, Hone and stock bore. You gotta love guys who did oil and filter, like clock work. And sadness when the car is insurance totaled.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge I got a couple sets of 781 head guess I better hang on to them! I got a 468 with goog parts and balanced along with hyd roller cam from Howard's Cams I've always gotten great performance with them ! Great machine work and instruction on how to correctly install large valves.
Enjoying your videos ,very informative . great advice on cam selection . still waiting for that clevor.nice that they make heads for this combination now.back in the day we had to modify iron heads. Manifolds were almost nonexistent.but they made great power.
HAve followed your uploads - thoroughly enjoy the content. Just noticed, your channel has eclipsed 100K sub! You definitely earned it. Congrats to you! Thanks for sharing and keep the content coming.
I am between shops right now sold my property a while ago looking fr new house/shop so it's kind of tough to do Vid's but I do plan on resumeing I am about to do the 351Clevor engine Video at a friends shop
Thank you for your videos! You definitely help people understand how things are done and why they cost us. What are your thoughts on the 241 casting and did they have induction hardening on the exhaust seats?
I really enjoy your vids, ( I think those cam selection ones superb ) thanks for all the good info. I have a question from "Blocks 101" but it came out in 2014 and I didn't think you would see it. ( I don't know how youtube works ) I have a straight edge, and the feeler gauge test shows the line bore to be good on my 454 with the main caps torqued down and not torqued down. ( it's about a 1" ground rod for this purpose ) They mic round with my dial bore gauge. The part that bugs me is when I hold two main caps together (the bases that mate to the block ) they're not square. There's an air gap of about .006" starting at the hole and tapering to the end on both sides. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
I appreciate all the videos you put out, long time subscriber and avid viewer. Could you do a video on piston knurling? This is kind of a lost process that could potentially save someone hundreds of dollars when they are refreshing a motor that could clean up with a honing but drive it a touch beyond piston to wall clearance spec. Thanks!
For lowest buck build use the 236 peanut port heads. Have the intake valve swapped for the bigger 2.19's. Leave the exhaust alone. Open the ports up slightly by bell mouthing the port about a inch in. You can then clean up the bowls for better flow, especially the ridge just under the valve. When done you got an incredibly responsive head that will make power to 5500-5600 rpm. Perfect for the street. Then, start saving up for Brodix Race Rite aluminum oval port heads. 😳👍
Man you make it look so easy! I guess that’s how it is when you really your stuff huh! Where are you located I need some work on a couple of my engines
Thanks for the great video...very educational. I have a set of 215 (109cc) semi-closed chamber oval port heads and a stock 454 block with flat tops and a mild cam(268/280 .520 110). I'm looking for a good pump gas street engine. Calculated C/R is around 9:1...mill the heads to bump that up or leave it as is?
I have a question about the induction hardened seats. Can an older head have them hardened or do you have to have hardened seats inserted? I have a pair of ported and polished194 fuels and they need guild work. I read it's not worth the cost. I'm figuring since they need work and they need to have the guilds cut adding the seats should not add to the set up time as much. I read if, I just put in the additive that's going to work fine since this is not an everyday driver. What is your take on this matter?
Do larger valves always help? Do big valves help or hurt bottom end? Does a small cam benefit from larger valves? I have theories, but want to hear more.
well it kind of depends on the engine on a 454 or 496 thet definitly help the bigger the valves are the more lift your cam needs the is actually a ratio between lift and valve size
My buddy in high school had a 396 Chevelle 70 model I had a 74 Nova 350 2 barrel stock.. I would pull away from him every time from a dead stop both vehicles were pretty much all stock nothing no power adders...
To much motor for the truck? ROFLMFAO!!! Fit just fine in mine, yet ain't enough motor yet!! It will be though!! 781's only flow to 550 lift, then you get reversion! Without extensive port work, there's no way they'll out flow a rec port head! But, if you're a street only guy, then they're the way to go if you're staying in the 6 - 6.5K rpm and below range. If you're looking for big power from an old GM head, and over 6500 rpm, then rec ports are the way to go. And just a note about "cheap" old iron heads... I'm building a set of 781's right now, and before port work, I'll have as much into them as I would if I just purchased a set of aluminum aftermarket heads that would outflow them all day! But, because of the class racing I do, I can't use aftermarket heads. Something to think about.
I had a set of 049 heads redone with these valves sizes and new guides, and had to get seat inserts put in them on the exhaust, my question is do the 049 heads have induction hardened seats like the 781 heads? Mine didn't it had three sunk exhaust valves when I pulled the engine apart.
@@davidcallahan5157 I honestly don't remember it was back in 2006 when I did them. Dont think new exhaust seats and new guides was to bad, I had another guy do the 4 angle intake valve job and 3 angle exhaust and he pocket ported and flowed them. Very impressive flow numbers when he got done over the stock 2.07 and 1.72 valves. I went with 2.19 and 1.880. But I might of went overboard on valves in a 454 as I'm using the engine for a tow engine and maybe I should of went with 236 peanut port heads but I didn't have any at the time just these 049 and 781 heads.
Quick question, did the 73 Ford 302 typically come with hardened seats? I’ve gotten mixed answers but I’m sure you’ve seen your fair share. I’m glad I found your channel, I’ve definitely learned a lot. Thanks, keep it up sir.
chambered heads, they make 9/1 compression with flat tops and steel shim gaskets. Plus you get good swirl for better combustion. What's your take on closed chambered heads?
Closed chamber oval ports work great as long as you unshroud the intake valve at the chamber wall. You can get roughly 9.7:1 compression with flat tops, zero decking and mls head gaskets.... My 702’s had 98 cc chambers, but after unshrouding they were 100 cc’s.... they were measured before and after....also have 2.19”/1.88” valves
Can the seats be hardened later? Suppose you obtained a set of pre-unleaded heads. Is there an induction fitting that would allow one to harden the seats, or you stuck with grinding the seats out and putting in an insert?
Yeah if you spend countless thousands on the induction machine. You should also temperature set the heads when induction hardening. It is far cheaper for the typical end user to just machine out pockets for hardened inserts on non-hardened heads, or if you just happen to need to repair a hardened seat head.
I have a question about what guides to use. Is there certain materials that don't work together such as you using stainless steel valves. Those thin guide inserts u used were they cast or bronze or what material??
They are a cast Guide, but they are what is called a chilled guide the freeze them to a very low temp during manufacture this hardenes them, they also have an oil spiral cut in them (not a Knurl) for better lubrication they are fine for stainless valves bronze works as well
I have closed chambered heads, they make 9/1 compression with flat tops and steel shim gaskets. Plus you get good swirl for better combustion. What's your take on closed chambered heads?
@@Myvintageiron7512 I can vouch for that. I ported a set of 3904390's with bigger valves, solid flat tappet cam, and I had to reinforce the passenger head rest.
@@Myvintageiron7512 Thanks! I would love to see you do a video comparing the differences between the ls engines and the differences in bore and stroke between the 4.8 and the 5.3 and the 6.0. And maybe comparing them to the bores and strokes of the older Chevrolet engines. I also really like the Q and A videos you did. Keep up the good work I hope to see more videos from you!
If you have a mid 70's 454 with flat top pistons, would it be worthwhile to go to 3964290 (101cc) closed chambered heads from 346236 (120cc) PP open heads? Any guess what the increase in compression may be with the 290 heads?
I ran a 454 flat top piston with the 290 heads for years with a mild flat tappet camshaft in a 3200 lb car with a good converter 410 gear in a car always ran 11.20s.to 11.40s
I got major geometry issues, I believe my valve length is at least .5 to long for my 1.7 rockers because mid lift put my rocker travel path on the very outer edge of valve, after market heads. Cant find any info
@@Myvintageiron7512 Sorry I didnt clarify that very well, I'm trying to determine pushrod length by first setting proper rocker arm geometry, when I set the rocker arm @90 degrees midlift travel path is on the outside edge of valve stem, now if I shorten my pushrod .75 or more I can achieve travel in center of valve. But I'm not even close to 90deg @ midlift at that point, I either need longer rocker arm studs and a custom size rockerarm or shorter valves, or I just Ignore the 90degrees @ midlift
I got my 454 up and running with the 049 heads and 2.19 and 1.88 valves. I'm really not impressed with the low rpm power or torque on it. I don't think its going to tow shit. Looks like I should of used the peanut port heads and standard valves, what u think for towing, I really screwed up.
the big valve upgrade with 049 is definitely a higher RPM Hot Rod thing the peanut port heads are definitely more suited to towing but it's an easy fix the P port heads are a dime a dozen and the big valve heads can be sold for pretty good money
First off you didn't test the valve guide to see if they were worn. No point in doing all that work if you don't have to. Second, the large oval closed chamber heads give 9:1 compression on a stock 454 with steel shim gaskets.
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Hey man. Welcome back. Please post videos more often... It's our men soap opera. We can't live without. 😁😁
Great explanation of the work involved with the installation of new guides, machining the oil-seal down, and getting the new valves ground and fitted..
Great work sir!!!
He makes all this look easy, I think he's built like 392 million of them. Thanks for explaining the seat work. 👍
Well, when you own a machine shop, and you've been rebuilding engines for 20+ years...
I do think I should say more. Before you pandemic I was never a TH-cam watcher. I started looking for and watching TH-cam standing in my garage at an old iMac, I am an IT guy and sit all day. I found you and have watched most of your videos and learned lots. Between you and ViceGrip Garage, and VG friend channels I found relief. I found you very informative and instructive. It was a heck of a 2020 summer, fall, and winter for all and I thank you for your maybe unknowingly support. Again Thank You. Regards Brad
Glad I could help
@@Myvintageiron7512 hey where are you located ? I would love for you to sharpen up my 455 olds motor
Thanks, I forgot what casting number I had.
427 is a no brainer.
My friend was totally happy with his 325hp 396 build with the 787's. Ran smooth all the way to California and back. Since he ran a Q-jet it was a functional near # match with the $50 back of a truck barn find. The
Long block. Only needed 10/10 polish. Seats and some guides. Very slight ridge so,
Hone and stock bore. You gotta love guys who did oil and filter, like clock work.
And sadness when the car is insurance totaled.
Tom Hanks with brains
I used one of those cutting tools when I did that same thing to my 428CJ heads, worked like a champ. You're so through on everything you do 👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Great video. I’ve used 781 heads for many years drag racing on a budget. They make power.
Definitely the go to channel 🤙
Great video! Thank you for sharing
Can't wait for next installment.
Awesome...Thanks again. AND more please!
Nice as always
Thanks for the good video
👍 love your work man!
I appreciate that!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge I got a couple sets of 781 head guess I better hang on to them! I got a 468 with goog parts and balanced along with hyd roller cam from Howard's Cams I've always gotten great performance with them ! Great machine work and instruction on how to correctly install large valves.
Enjoying your videos ,very informative . great advice on cam selection . still waiting for that clevor.nice that they make heads for this combination now.back in the day we had to modify iron heads. Manifolds were almost nonexistent.but they made great power.
Great info as always, that's a bummer to hear about the 427 time machine lol. Thanks for sharing, keep it up. Stay safe
HAve followed your uploads - thoroughly enjoy the content. Just noticed, your channel has eclipsed 100K sub! You definitely earned it. Congrats to you! Thanks for sharing and keep the content coming.
Nice video. I like the footage of the hardened seat surface.
You can tell when you cut through it when machining. It happens.
I just picked up a set of complete 049 heads for $100 tonight! I'm going to replace the peanut port heads on my gen 5 454 and upgrade the valves.
Love watching the machining. Especially with the great explanations. Are the piston domes the same tri-oval-ish shape as the head chamber?
I do hope you and your family are doing well. God bless.
Yes, thank you
I miss you. Love your videos. I am building a roller Pontiac 400 and your vids will be a great hlep.
I am between shops right now sold my property a while ago looking fr new house/shop so it's kind of tough to do Vid's but I do plan on resumeing I am about to do the 351Clevor engine Video at a friends shop
Thank you for your videos! You definitely help people understand how things are done and why they cost us. What are your thoughts on the 241 casting and did they have induction hardening on the exhaust seats?
I really enjoy your vids, ( I think those cam selection ones superb ) thanks for all the good info. I have a question from "Blocks 101" but it came out in 2014 and I didn't think you would see it. ( I don't know how youtube works ) I have a straight edge, and the feeler gauge test shows the line bore to be good on my 454 with the main caps torqued down and not torqued down. ( it's about a 1" ground rod for this purpose ) They mic round with my dial bore gauge. The part that bugs me is when I hold two main caps together (the bases that mate to the block ) they're not square. There's an air gap of about .006" starting at the hole and tapering to the end on both sides. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
I appreciate all the videos you put out, long time subscriber and avid viewer. Could you do a video on piston knurling? This is kind of a lost process that could potentially save someone hundreds of dollars when they are refreshing a motor that could clean up with a honing but drive it a touch beyond piston to wall clearance spec. Thanks!
Would love to see a low buck 454 build. Big oval heads, domed pistons etc.
For lowest buck build use the 236 peanut port heads. Have the intake valve swapped for the bigger 2.19's. Leave the exhaust alone. Open the ports up slightly by bell mouthing the port about a inch in. You can then clean up the bowls for better flow, especially the ridge just under the valve. When done you got an incredibly responsive head that will make power to 5500-5600 rpm. Perfect for the street. Then, start saving up for Brodix Race Rite aluminum oval port heads. 😳👍
Right on
Would also like to see what those big oval heads flow with the big valves and being ported, Also what the ldeal lift cam would be with those heads
Man you make it look so easy! I guess that’s how it is when you really your stuff huh! Where are you located I need some work on a couple of my engines
Have you ever thought about doing a Chevy 348 or 409? I’d like to see some of your tips and tricks on those old W motors
Oh Mrs. Vintage Iron... You are the model for all women! Lol
Great video! Is there anyway you could tell us or post a link to what valves and springs you used in this video?
Thanks for the great video...very educational. I have a set of 215 (109cc) semi-closed chamber oval port heads and a stock 454 block with flat tops and a mild cam(268/280 .520 110). I'm looking for a good pump gas street engine. Calculated C/R is around 9:1...mill the heads to bump that up or leave it as is?
I have the same setup with holley 750 , No power after 5,000 rpm , I think that cam is to small
I have a question about the induction hardened seats. Can an older head have them hardened or do you have to have hardened seats inserted? I have a pair of ported and polished194 fuels and they need guild work. I read it's not worth the cost. I'm figuring since they need work and they need to have the guilds cut adding the seats should not add to the set up time as much. I read if, I just put in the additive that's going to work fine since this is not an everyday driver. What is your take on this matter?
Your wife is awesome, you're a lucky guy !
Damn and I’ve got a 396/402 all I want is more power
Great channel
What state are you in
I am looking for a shop to install cams in my
challenger and Ram
BYRON, how much port cc would be needed to turn a Chevy bbc 427 into a 700 housing a high lift roller cam?
Is it alright using those stainless valves with the iron inserts?
Love your work!!Very professional..
Question when using brand new valves do you still reface the valve before installing?
I always lap them in
@@Myvintageiron7512 would it be possible to do a detailed video on you honing a block?
Do larger valves always help? Do big valves help or hurt bottom end? Does a small cam benefit from larger valves? I have theories, but want to hear more.
well it kind of depends on the engine on a 454 or 496 thet definitly help the bigger the valves are the more lift your cam needs the is actually a ratio between lift and valve size
My buddy in high school had a 396 Chevelle 70 model I had a 74 Nova 350 2 barrel stock.. I would pull away from him every time from a dead stop both vehicles were pretty much all stock nothing no power adders...
What about the L29 7.4 liter vortec head with 100 cc combustion chamber
To much motor for the truck? ROFLMFAO!!! Fit just fine in mine, yet ain't enough motor yet!! It will be though!!
781's only flow to 550 lift, then you get reversion! Without extensive port work, there's no way they'll out flow a rec port head!
But, if you're a street only guy, then they're the way to go if you're staying in the 6 - 6.5K rpm and below range.
If you're looking for big power from an old GM head, and over 6500 rpm, then rec ports are the way to go.
And just a note about "cheap" old iron heads... I'm building a set of 781's right now, and before port work, I'll have as much into them as I would if I just purchased a set of aluminum aftermarket heads that would outflow them all day! But, because of the class racing I do, I can't use aftermarket heads. Something to think about.
How about 2.06 peanut port heads?😁 I just went 11.82@ 112 1.56 60' with 236 heads, what do you think I would gain with a set of 2.19s ?
I did your formula on determining hp by flow numbers and it said 400,I made 502 with my mild sbc,am I doing this wrong??
I had a set of 049 heads redone with these valves sizes and new guides, and had to get seat inserts put in them on the exhaust, my question is do the 049 heads have induction hardened seats like the 781 heads? Mine didn't it had three sunk exhaust valves when I pulled the engine apart.
How much did cost to get them all done ? Jesse
@@davidcallahan5157 I honestly don't remember it was back in 2006 when I did them. Dont think new exhaust seats and new guides was to bad, I had another guy do the 4 angle intake valve job and 3 angle exhaust and he pocket ported and flowed them. Very impressive flow numbers when he got done over the stock 2.07 and 1.72 valves. I went with 2.19 and 1.880. But I might of went overboard on valves in a 454 as I'm using the engine for a tow engine and maybe I should of went with 236 peanut port heads but I didn't have any at the time just these 049 and 781 heads.
Quick question, did the 73 Ford 302 typically come with hardened seats? I’ve gotten mixed answers but I’m sure you’ve seen your fair share. I’m glad I found your channel, I’ve definitely learned a lot. Thanks, keep it up sir.
Yes after 1970ish they were hardened
@@Myvintageiron7512 “ know it all’s “ around me were shaming me for not using lead substitute 🤦♂️ thanks for confirming what I thought.
chambered heads, they make 9/1 compression with flat tops and steel shim gaskets. Plus you get good swirl for better combustion. What's your take on closed chambered heads?
Closed chamber oval ports work great as long as you unshroud the intake valve at the chamber wall. You can get roughly 9.7:1 compression with flat tops, zero decking and mls head gaskets.... My 702’s had 98 cc chambers, but after unshrouding they were 100 cc’s.... they were measured before and after....also have 2.19”/1.88” valves
Can the seats be hardened later? Suppose you obtained a set of pre-unleaded heads. Is there an induction fitting that would allow one to harden the seats, or you stuck with grinding the seats out and putting in an insert?
Yeah if you spend countless thousands on the induction machine. You should also temperature set the heads when induction hardening. It is far cheaper for the typical end user to just machine out pockets for hardened inserts on non-hardened heads, or if you just happen to need to repair a hardened seat head.
Yes we can install hardened seat inserts
I have a question about what guides to use. Is there certain materials that don't work together such as you using stainless steel valves. Those thin guide inserts u used were they cast or bronze or what material??
They are a cast Guide, but they are what is called a chilled guide the freeze them to a very low temp during manufacture this hardenes them,
they also have an oil spiral cut in them (not a Knurl) for better lubrication they are fine for stainless valves bronze works as well
@@Myvintageiron7512 thank you
How about the 820 casting?
👍🥂😉
Can u do extreme cheap build for a carb 454 motor
That’s my kind of lady! V6’s for high school girls...😂😂😂
I have closed chambered heads, they make 9/1 compression with flat tops and steel shim gaskets. Plus you get good swirl for better combustion. What's your take on closed chambered heads?
they work well on the street
@@Myvintageiron7512 I can vouch for that. I ported a set of 3904390's with bigger valves, solid flat tappet cam, and I had to reinforce the passenger head rest.
Hey sir good content ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ question can you recommend me to a shop that can help me with HP upgrades on my lq9
Great video as always! What do you think about the 454 vortec heads?
Not bad
@@Myvintageiron7512 Thanks! I would love to see you do a video comparing the differences between the ls engines and the differences in bore and stroke between the 4.8 and the 5.3 and the 6.0. And maybe comparing them to the bores and strokes of the older Chevrolet engines. I also really like the Q and A videos you did. Keep up the good work I hope to see more videos from you!
Is this a worth while upgrade to a 290 closed chamber head thats going on a 454?
290 heads won't flow as well because of the valve shrouding of the smaller chambers. The bigger valves will still be an improvement, though.
If you have a mid 70's 454 with flat top pistons, would it be worthwhile to go to 3964290 (101cc) closed chambered heads from 346236 (120cc) PP open heads? Any guess what the increase in compression may be with the 290 heads?
I ran a 454 flat top piston with the 290 heads for years with a mild flat tappet camshaft in a 3200 lb car with a good converter 410 gear in a car always ran 11.20s.to 11.40s
@NarrowRoy CrashDummie Thank you!
@@tomb8847 Thank you!
I got major geometry issues, I believe my valve length is at least .5 to long for my 1.7 rockers because mid lift put my rocker travel path on the very outer edge of valve, after market heads. Cant find any info
your push rods are too long
@@Myvintageiron7512 Sorry I didnt clarify that very well, I'm trying to determine pushrod length by first setting proper rocker arm geometry, when I set the rocker arm @90 degrees midlift travel path is on the outside edge of valve stem, now if I shorten my pushrod .75 or more I can achieve travel in center of valve. But I'm not even close to 90deg @ midlift at that point, I either need longer rocker arm studs and a custom size rockerarm or shorter valves, or I just Ignore the 90degrees @ midlift
Can you recommend a good machine shop around surprise Peoria Glendale Phoenix
Did you work at Hemplemans?
I got my 454 up and running with the 049 heads and 2.19 and 1.88 valves. I'm really not impressed with the low rpm power or torque on it. I don't think its going to tow shit. Looks like I should of used the peanut port heads and standard valves, what u think for towing, I really screwed up.
the big valve upgrade with 049 is definitely a higher RPM Hot Rod thing the peanut port heads are definitely more suited to towing but it's an easy fix the P port heads are a dime a dozen and the big valve heads can be sold for pretty good money
Do you offer this service, valve upgrade?
Can you rebuild a Ford 300 six next?
What about 292 you deal with them at all
I want to hear it 😬
Myvintageiron should you soak lifters before install?
if they are rollers yes
What brand valves do you recommend ?
Manley
What's the name of your shop?
What’s the name of your shop???
Don,t you need some lubricants for all these tools to give a smoother result???
No never use lube on cast iron only on aluminum
Good morning Mr iron! I was wondering how I contact your shop . I need some work done I am over in Surprise
I'm not taking customer work anymore
Need a mic on the jacket...
My machinist refused to put bigger valves in my 781 heads. Said they didn’t need them.
Simple solution to that problem don't you think?
Find a different machinist!
Bee hive springs are better and you don't need to spend time and money on the guide for smaller seals.
Do you rebuild for people? Can I ship you a motor and you ship it back after you rebuild it?
sorry not doing customer work any more
If we take our pilot out Who,s going to drive ? .... Only kidding ..
Can I contact you?
First off you didn't test the valve guide to see if they were worn. No point in doing all that work if you don't have to. Second, the large oval closed chamber heads give 9:1 compression on a stock 454 with steel shim gaskets.
the guides are new and the 781 is not closed chamber they are open chamber 120 cc heads
@@Myvintageiron7512 That's my pet peeve with BBC, to get decent C.R. you always have to buy pistons with domes.
can i have your email?