Always Pack/Re-Pack Sealed Bearings (Two Methods)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ย. 2024
- While it might sound strange, in this video I explain why I always add grease to brand new sealed bearings before installation. I also re-pack them if I've used them awhile.
I'll show you two different methods to accomplish this task.
This has saved us a lot of money over the years.
Works for any sealed bearing, not just garden tractor bearings. For example, I always add grease to the idler and tensioner pulley bearings on our vehicles.
If you think this is too much grease, fair enough...add less or it flush out the bearing with new grease and scoop a bunch out/work it out with a rag. Surely we can agree that flushing out the out dirty grease and grime from a used bearing will make it last longer.
This is just what I do, if you do anything seen in this video you do so at your own risk. No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user.
Music is "Corn Squeezins" from Adobe Premiere 13. No additional information about the music is available.
I replaced the idler pulleys on my car in the past year. Brand new out of the box. They started squealing on start up shortly after. I repacked the bearings using the needle method on both of them and haven't had a problem since. Now I make sure to add grease to any bearings I replace. Great video on showing how to do this. 👍
@midwestrigging thank you for commenting and it's great to hear the video helped you!
If it was the bearing making that noise, regreasing does nothing for the damage done.
Replaced a bearing recently on a $10,000 motor and it went bad again within 3 weeks. When I took apart the motor and checked in the bearing it had almost exactly the same weird graining looking grease that the first bearing you opened had, and it was about equally empty!
Wish I had found this video earlier, i fell into the mistake of thinking that just because it came from the factory and was new it would be fine.
Excellent video. Thanks so much for the instruction. Concise and very informative. Thanks for sharing your learning points from previous attempts. Thank you so much for sharing. Good luck with the channel.
Thank you for your kind comments! I'm glad you found it helpful!
I have seen videos warning about over packing bearing and the possibility of over heating, i have been in engineering for 40 + years and bearing failure is always due to insufficient grease. .i always re pack fully which makes bearing almost ever lasting
@edwardmiller3859 Thank you for your comment and providing your experience with doing this!
Thanks again and I hope you subscribe!
I have the best luck prying out the seal from the outer edge. This prevents damage to the sealing surfaces. For high speed bearings you only want the bearing to be packed about 1/3 full to prevent over heating.
Thank you for the great tips!
That bearing packer is slick.
@rawbacon they really are slick. I have had it for over 25 years. I bought it to pack trailer wheel bearings.
That video was in fact the first time I used it for the bearings on my garden tractor. In fact, I thought of trying it while filming the 1st way and was so happy with how it worked I had to splice it in and retake my intro.
That model was made by BluePoint, but the patent has long since expired and now there are other brands available (no clue about the quality of the new ones)
Thanks for watching and commenting, and I hope you subscribe!
What a great video.
Thanks for showing both ways to do it.
I really appreciate this video, thank you from 🇦🇺🤠
Definately going to make a grease packer...✔
Glad you liked it! Thank you for watching and commenting!
If no zert drill and tap it , leave inside brg cover off and drill tin hole in bottom cover for excess grease to excape under deck
I agree and I'm glad you for mentioned this, especially for deck bearings! I didn't want to drill a hole in the rim for the wheel bearings.
In case it helps others that might be reading (of course it's obvious Phillip Hall knows this): The original/OEM bearings for those with grease zerks didn't have the inside seal that blocked grease from getting into the bearings (often seen when I've restored garden tractors). Newer replacement bearings come with a seal on both sides, probably so they work for multiple applications. By leaving the 'inside' seal off where you have a grease zerk (or where you've installed one as suggested by Phillip Hall) the grease is able to get to the bearing. Note that when removing the seals, some sealed bearings have one side the exposes the bearings; whereas the other side has a grid...leave the seal off the side the exposes the bearings and leave the 'grid' side on. Of course, if you don't remove the seal, the only benefit of using the grease zerk is that it provides some anti-corrosion prevention to the inner components (again, it can't really get to the bearing if you leave the seal on the side exposed to the grease).
On the other hand, we also have some sealed bearings where there isn't a place to put a grease zerk. Such as the blower PTO extension, or even idler and tensioner bearings on my vehicles, etc. In those cases I've found that if I pack them and/or re-pack them they last longer. In addition, there is some benefit to re-packing them even if you have a grease zerk in that it 'flushes' out some of the crud in the bearing that happens from regular use.
Thanks for the helpful comment and for watching!!
Bearings companies wants to keep their sales/revenue cycle going.
If bearing last for VERY long time. this will affect their revenue.
If bearing dies quickly, it will affect their reputation.
So, they make a balance.
I'm with checking bearings:
- Adding grease if needed.
- Clean old grease, add high quality right grease (high temp) lithium complex grease.
But not with filling the bearings 100% full, need to leave some empty space.
To not pop off or damage crack the seals or causing bearing drag.
Anything too much can be bad.
Just as too much "dry" bearings are.
Thank you for your comments, and thank you for watching.
That’s just wrong. Learn what bearing L-10 life is. Properly installed and selected they can last extremely long. Contamination is the #1 bearing killer.
I have taken the seals off for years and have found there is nothing but oil in the sealed bearing numerous times.
Interesting. Thank you for commenting and for watching.
Not sure how the grease base can disappear and leave only the oil that was in the grease.
Hi great idea what is the tool you used to refill the bearing it looked like some type of air greaser I could use one of those again thanks for a good idea thanks from the UK
Thank you! Wow! Great to hear from the UK!
Hmm...I wonder if you're referring to the 'bearing packer' (round clear base with red insert). The one I have is made by BluePoint, I've probably had it for 25-30 years. I think there are other brands now. The thing in the middle of the red part is a grease zerk to fill the bottom with grease. I don't use that part bc it can break off easily. I screw the top on and pull the insert out that way.
In case I misunderstood, the other thing is a needle on a grease zerk I probably bought 25-30 years ago.
I haven't had a problem, but if you repack a sealed bearing used in a high speed application, it's probably best to remove some of the grease and only leave it 30-50% full otherwise the grease may heat up and leak out.
Let me know if you have any other questions or comments.
Thanks for watching and commenting, I hope you subscribe!
@@foxcanfarms I was looking at the air fed tool used to put grease into the bearings it’s ideal for smaller jobs like motorcycles and miniature steam engines thanks
I'm confused. The previous video I watched said you should only fill the bearing about 25% full or they will overheat and fail prematurely? The bearings aren't packed full new for that reason.
Thank you for your comment and for watching!
I and others haven't had any problems doing what I do, nor have I had to replace any bearings. This is my experience vs a spec sheet that I don't believe is designed for the longest life.
I don't see any problem with adding less, but you should know that it's not 25%...per an engineer my son works with (obtained after I made the video) the specs have a general range of 15-50% depending on the bearing (and that's a general range not all inclusive).
In my experience companies manufacturing specs are are designed for two things, maximize profit and create a product that fits the market they target (best, middle, economy, etc). I don't think mosr are made to last as long as possible/be the best and never need replacement bc the fact is if you don't maintain them, they will fail (its inherent in the design).
At least we agree it helps to clean them out, and you can decide how much grease to add.
why not experiment with different amounts, flush it/pack it, scoop some out...if you do nothing you know you're guaranteed to replace it, so find out the best amount for each application you have
I filled them about 50% full. The alternator is 30 years old and has run 180,000 miles. The grease was hardened but not totally dry. Had a hard time finding a new back bearing and had to reuse it. Usually the made @@foxcanfarms in Japan bearings last a long time.
That's a really good point on the Japan bearings lasting a long time!! Those do seem to be a lot better.
Believe it or not, the companies that make bearings know what they are doing. Only 30 to 40% of available space should have grease. Any more in a sealed bearing and they can overheat which can denature the grease and lead to failure. Less is more. And if you are going to pack a bearing with new grease remove all the old stuff. Some greases are incompatible. Don't just look at things and speculate and apply "common sense." Get your information from the manufacturers and reputable manuals.
thank you for your comment. I'm just showing you what I do. My experience (not my speculation) and the experience of others has been this makes the bearings last longer (in fact I haven't needed to replace them).
I hope we can agree that flushing out the dirty old grease and then removing grease with a rag and getting close to the 30-40% space you stated is better for the bearing than doing nothing.
I have already experimented with doing nothing and the result is bearings don't last as long.
Maybe I will try an experiment with two bearings, one with less grease and one packed and see if there is a difference.
This is Okay to do with a low-speed bearing application but not a high-speed application. Packing a high-speed bearing solid will create heat and lead to premature bearing failure.
different greases shouldn't be mixed, but filling all the available space can have advantages when overheating and low friction aren't critical but dirt/water intrusion and long periods between use are expected. the use of rubber sealed bearings indicates that is the case in this application to some extent and they already have more grease than an equivalent high-speed bearing. if you find the grease has hardened and dried up you know not to do it again, or maybe try a different grease.
Low speed applications, 100% grease pack is fine.
Especially if a reciptocating part (just goes back-forth, doesnt spin all the time)
This post is correct. Sealed bearings never need to be packed full. Less is more.
Here in the Philippines many stupid mechanics repacking brandnew "2RS" bearing because they believed factory grease is not enough.
Thanks for watching
What make of grease packer do you use?
@stecy802 the one I have is BluePoint. I've probably had this one for over 25 years. When I bought it, these were not readily available, in fact there may have only been one brand at the time. I had to buy it through a friend who was able to buy it through one of the high end tool truck dealers.
Thank you for watching and I hope you're willing to subscribe!
You put way too much grease in the first bearing IMO.
Once the bearing gets warm from use its going to push grease out of the seal.
I learned that the hard way.
@richardturk7162 Thank you for your comment. I haven't had an issue with slow speed bearings, but going forward (after I flush it out), I will remove some of the grease, especially on high speed bearings.
Thanks again!
@@foxcanfarms It would probably be OK in a farm tractor and wagon application because of slow speeds.
Bearings that work under high heat that have some thrust side to side it pushes the grease out to some degree but also lets in debris and water.
I did get some that came out on a vehicle idler pulley recently so that makes sense.
Still good to repack, just remove some of the grease, especially on high speed applications.
Can I use it if it's bent ... Will the bearing still work
@Kgutso Makoti I'm wondering you are asking if a bent cover/seal can be used? I have bent the seals on more than one and I've been able to reuse
them.
I gently bend it back, and if it looks like it's still solid and the metal inside did not brake then I try to push it into the groove. If it seats in the groove, at least for me, I haven't had an issue.
In fact I don't recall, but there may have been one in the video that had been bent (I didn't comment on it).
The biggest thing is it seats back into the bearing. I suppose if it had a really big kink in it, bearings would push the seal out when they move (I'd be really surprised if the seal would stop the bearing from moving).
Hope that helps!
If you haven't already, I greatly appreciate you subscribing...eitherway, thanks for watching!!
@@foxcanfarms that's exactly what I'm asking.
I will subscribe. Thank you
Thank you!
wouldn't hurt to clean out the old grease completely rather than mixing potentially incompatible greases together.
I agree, it wouldnt hurt to clean it out. Would you recommend brake cleaner or acetone, maybe something that doesn't leave a residue?
In my case I haven't had an issue with incompatibility. Perhaps what I've worked on the greases were compatible, perhaps the little that's left didn't matter.
Thank you for your comment.
From General Motors service in information. Now not only you broke the seal you are not putting the same grease!!! All greases are not compatible!!! Bad information
I always welcome respectful comments and discussion - I think it is helpful for all parties. Despite the apparent tone of your comments, I will assume you mean well and intend to have a genuine discussion.
1) “From General Motors Service in information”. Sorry I don’t know what this means nor do I understand the overlap with my garden tractor bearings I discuss in the video which are not made by GM.
2) “Broke the seal”: While most people commonly refer to these as “sealed bearings”, they are not in fact a true “sealed” bearing. There isn’t any glue or welding done to “seal” these at the factory. These are effectively dust covers/shields. As such, I did not “break” the seal, I simply removed what one might call a ‘dust cover’ to look at the condition of the bearings and the grease therein. These “seals” would permit grease to come out if it was overheated and pressing the rubber like coated metal seal back into place restores the “seal”. I would hope we could agree that flushing out the dirt and old grease from a used bearing is better than doing nothing.
3) ‘…not putting in the same grease!!! All greases as not compatible!!!”: You are correct the grease I added is not the same and not all greases are compatible, such as silicone and lithium greases are not compatible with what I used. However, I believe neither you nor I know whether the greases being used here are not compatible. Unless they are silicone or lithium greases (and there are some super special application greases not applicable here) the greases in the bearings I used likely meet or exceed the common bearing grease standards. Moreover, due to the way I add grease, much of the old grease is pushed out. In my experience has been this has not been a problem and my process results in the bearings lasting longer…personally I’m not worried about the miniscule amount of original that remains for the applications I do this for. If one wanted to reduce waste and wanted to be a purist about not mixing greases, one could clean out the old grease with an appropriate cleaner, and then add their own bearing grease. Viewers will note it is of course true that not all greases are compatible and if you do what I did, there is a risk you are using incompatible greases and you do so at your own risk.
Ever notice that your service manuals will always suggest you use THEIR items and THEIR part numbers. I hope most people realize that when you go to a repair shop (garden tractor repair, vehicle repair, etc.) it is not likely they use the exact brand of grease for your garden tractor, or vehicle for that matter…unless of course you have ALL your repairs and maintenance done by the respective dealer (in that case, other than for entertainment, I’m not sure why they are watching this video). Instead, the repair shop uses the brand that meets or exceeds the specs for that application (at least we hope they do).
Thank you for your comments which afforded me the opportunity to cover something I did not specifically cover in the video.
Hell no, don't do it.
ok then. Some have said it's too much grease, but I don't think anyone has said its bad to add grease.
Helpful video,
@markbury1788 Thank you for your feedback. Glad it helped!