For the front brakes the line can be pretty much any length as long as as it reaches the levers because the handle bars always move with the front wheel.
Brilliant! I got a new set of Shimano front brakes and calipers and the brake hose was too long. Followed your instructions and they worked like a charm. Thanks Clint
everyone here...buy shimano..NOT HAYES.. no wonder brakes on harleys are bad..HAYES>. i would like a conversation with their engineers.. i'd give them an earful.
Great video Clint. Do you have to replace the olive any time you detach the brake lines from the lever or only if you are shortening the hose? I ask because I got a pair of brakes that came Euro style. I switched the lines and one seems to work great, but the other seems to be leaking. I'm thinking it's either I need to redo the olive and pin every time or maybe I didn't tighten enough (i.e., 8 newtons)? Any thoughts appreciated.
+Blake Durtsche no, you do not need to change the olive every time you remove the cable from the lever. It sounds like you just need to tighten the bolt the holds the cable in the lever. It's pretty finicky. I've had times where I thought it was tight enough but it leaked a little bit. Just taking it a tad more.
I dIdn't have a vice, so I wrapped the tube with two layers of duct tape and held it with in place with pliers in my left hand. Using the flat handle of a wrench in the web of my right hand, I was able to grip the pliers with my fingers and press the pin into place. This method is useful if you're doing this in your bedroom, but there's a few drawbacks: 1) success is dependent on your grip strength, and 2) you run the risk of deforming the cable. On the first attempt, the tube bent, and flattened a little where the pliers had gripped it. However, this technique worked perfectly for me on the second try - no deformations at all.
Has anyone tried reusing insert pin... I have trouble finding new one, oredring it will take me month or even two months to get it, so I will try reusing it and see how it goes. With being careful I dont see why it wouldnt work, olive must be replaced since it gets crushed but insert pin should be fine if I manage to pull it ou without damaging it...
i've got ape hanger bars on an xl frame so i need longer hose than come with most sets, is there a process that describes this operation, buying hose adding length?
Do i have to thread in the bolt all the way in before it hits 8 nm torque ??? In my case.. my bolt was already tight that i think its already been threaded in about that NM but it hasnt threaded all the way in
Great video! Very clear. I recently upgraded to SLX brakes and when the arrived in the mail the levers were reversed, i.e. front lever on the right, rear on the left. I want to switch the hoses and the sizes will then be correct. I wont have to do any cutting but i wondered if i will need to bleed the brakes afterwards. Thanks
Sometimes you don't need to bleed if you are careful. I've even cut a hose an not needed to bleed. But the bleeding process is so simple that it's not much of an issue if you do have to.
Clint Gibbs Thanks for the reply. Related to my previous question, would I need to replace the olive if all I'm doing is pulling the hose and inserting in opposite lever? I'm unsure if that would damage it.
Hey, the little silver insert you insert into the hose when its in the vice, is that the one that was there before? or do you have to buy them seperate? im about to buy xt brakes so im guessing i will need to shorten so do i need to buy that insert aswell? or? if so whats the exact name and where from? thanks
+Mathew Pugh If you buy XT brakes that weren't meant to be on a retail bike than they will be in OEM packaging and not bubble wrap. The front brake includes the bleed block and the hose holder. Each set comes with the needle and the olive. The clue lies in the lengths.
Hii. Are their any chances that it will leak if shorten it? Or are their any chances too if i already cut it and no leak. BUT. If i squeeze slowly the lever will hit the grip. It means their is leaking air? But when you buy new one it doesnt hit the grip when squeezing slowly. ( Sorry half english please answer my question gonna buy mt200 and shorten it. Tia. )
Thank you for this clear and straightforward video. I am about to do the same thing on my bike and your instructions are very helpful. I wonder yet that no drop(s) of mineral oil spills out of the open end of the hose once you cut it and even move it to your bench vise ... Are the brakes not pre-filled with mineral oil when you buy them?
They are prefilled. The reason not much flows out when you got the hose it’s just because there’s not any airflow that can allow the oil to come out the end.
Great video. I am installing the same Shimano XT brakes on my Specialized Stumpjumper FSR this weekend. Hoping I don't need to cut the lines but if I do, I now know how.
if i need to dettach the brake lines from the body of my bicycle(cannot be dettached unless another end is free, so it could slide along the holes, should I follow this instruction or is there another way around so I don't need to buy the ones you put inside and outside the cable?
Hi Clint, I am gonna to mount the XT brakes on my fantastic Trek Fully MTB! I will remove the Avid Elixier brakes which are now very hygroscopic and biking with them really doesn't make fun anymore! I think your two videos, Cut, Shorten, Re-install and bleed Shimano Hydraulic Brakes are the best I could find now. I didn't find anything comparing in german. Nevertheless, I will go and mount my XT brakes, I'm crossing my fingers for myself! Regards from Germany, Koblenz :-) Dagmar
Hi! Thank you for the video.. I am trying to install hoses for r8070 caliper and grx shifters. On the shifter the olive and hose goes in and I screw the bolt inwards. It screws away, but doesnt seem to tighten? And on the rear...the olive and hose seem a lot tighter...the bolt screws in and starts to get tight, with maybe one third of the screwed surface left to tighten... Does this make sense? Any ideas, what I could be doing wrong? Thank you!
Great video, thanks for taking the time to educate us, can you show a picture of the type of mineral oil you use and where can i buy Shimano Hydraulic Brake Cables. Thanks
You leave just a little bit of housing sticking up from the bleed blocks @ 6:28 however if you leave an excess of the usual 15mm (Lenth of the pin) this means the pin will go in best, by allowing the housing to expand evenly around it and the tension holds it firmly in place. In your example, the pin will expand mostly the inner wall of the hose and the block will be creating tension/spring in the outer part of the hose around the pin, so, when the blocks come off you might find that tension then releases as the outer layers expand, leaving the pin not as firmly in place. Of course, the difference is not really going to be notable... Although I'd like to think it would be best practice especially in a bike service shop :)
People say that an SM-BH59 can be used in place of an SM-BH90, 59 is for road bikes, whilst 90 is used on mtb bikes, I know the internal diameter is larger on 59 than the 90 which is smaller...what would be the difference in operation/feel between the two, I want to install the Saint 810 DH brakes on my Giant Fathom. Many Thanks and Kind Regards in advance ; ) Ooh!! I can't make my mind up between Mavic or DT Swiss? Do you have a preference??
My preferences DT Swiss. I cannot speak from direct experience with smaller brake lines but I would imagine you're going to lose some modulation. But that's just the theory. Never tried it.
Clint, there's a much easier way to trim the line without having to bleed the entire system, just the top portion. You don't even have to remove the brake pads just make sure everything at the bottom end, brakes and rotors, are covered with some rags incase there's some spillage. When you cut the line at the top, everything else you did gets done the same, just cut the line, attach it back to the lever housing and tighten. Remove the bleed cover, attach the cup and add mineral oil, pump the lever several times and what ever air is at the top end of the braking system, will come out. Make sure your cables are propped up so that oil doesn't leak downward after you cut the lines. Also, make sure that they're paying attention to the "o" ring that's part of the bleed screw or screw cap and that it doesn't fall off…and you're done.
Don't be stingy about sliding that nail into the brake line to open it up a little. The little insert split open and sliced through the outside of the brake cable. I managed to salvage the insert by filing the end down and reforming it. Hopefully the connection doesn't leak. I haven't bled it yet.
And the bike shop makes it seem like a complex operation. I install swage fittings at work, on steel process lines all the time, and you've shown me that is all there is to it. Just like the brand we use, the tightening nut does the swaging. Thanks - easier than cable brakes.
I have the same Anthem as you Clint,. On this bike though, how does one route outer cables shifters or outer brake into the frame of this bike, does it require a thin tube as a guide or could one just remove the old inners first then use the old outers as a guide to feed in new inners then take out the old outers with the new inners as guide to put the new outers? all these without using any other tube that one would have to get from a hardware store as a guide? Secondly, we know you do get the olive with the new brakes but, what if you but a fairly-used brakes or where do you olives and the other connector insert?
Thanks for making this video. It helped me understand it much better. BTW, the manual also states to apply premium grease to the threads and the olive.
Hey Clint, nice vid , I am currently running Shimano M210 hydraulics but want to upgrade to SLX, do I have to use the hose that comes with the SLX or can I just use the hose thats on my current set up since they are already cut to the length that I need. Thanks in advance.
Nice vid, thanks! I've got a really spongy feel to my rear brake (Avid Elixir R with 180 mm rotor). I'm thinking about upgrading to steel braided lines b/c even with several bleeds the rear sucks. Front is OK. I've determined that the rubber line must be the main cause for the spongy feel.
Maybe someone sees this in time... I'm gonna receive a replacement Saint lever soon and I'm wondering if I can leave the brake line with the olive and the insert as it is and just screw it into the new lever of if a need to cut the cable and use a new olive and insert. Anyone? @Clint Gibbs
Yes, you can do that. Of course this assumes the length of the hose is appropriate. If you have to shorten it then you have to put in a new Olive and hose insert.
+TheDoors00 sure. You can just swap the hoses from one level to the other. In the mountain biking world they call it Moto Style, when you use the left lever to operate the rear brake. When you do that there's a good chance you're going to have to bleed the brakes but you don't need to replace the olive on the hoses when you do it, assuming you don't have to cut any hoes to make them shorter.
Clint Gibbs Thanks a lot for the reply and info! xD that sounds pretty gnarly, would it be possible to turn the lever upside-down and put it on the right side?
What if you don't have the connector insert and the olive that round ring because you bought a used brake? CAn I pull out the old olive, straighten it and take out the insert and reuse them? how can I get them if all these can't be done?
No, you cannot reuse an olive. Your local bike shop should be able to order one. If you don’t have a shop nearby you should be able to find one online. JooFn MTB Mountain Bike Bicycle Olive and Connecting Insert for SHIMANO BH90 Hydraulic Disc Brake Hose (BH90) www.amazon.com/dp/B077VPSJKL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_0AVsCbQX5M9AZ
hi Clint just got my shimano xt ice tech brakes the bike shop told me that these brakes need to be bedded in so they told me to find a nice steep decent and to apply these brakes as hard as i can to heat them up is this the right way to do this please can you give me some tips thanks Clint.
That's about right. What I do is go on the road and get up to about 20 miles per hour and then apply both brakes hard to a full stop. I repeat that 10 times.
Hey Clint, thanks for another great video. Let me know... if i dont want to cut, just want to switch left housing to the right lever and right housing to the left lever... would i need new olives? TY.
Hey Clint. I liked your video. It was very clear and easy to follow. I have a question for you, if you don't mind? I'm switching my lines from "moto" to bicycle and the housing seems to be stuck/jammed in the lever body. I reefed on it pretty hard to no avail. Any ideas? They are Saint 810's. I've been running either Magura or Shimnao forever without trouble... Thanks, Derek
If you have the housing bolt all the way out, which I'm sure you do, then it can take some force. The doughnut gets jammed inside the leaver body. Try shaking the housing back and forth while you pull on it.
You explain things so well and so clearly. Can I ask, I have deore brakeset on my Trance 2015. If I were to upgrade to SLX or XT, would it be ok to just leave the current brake housing in place and do what you did here? Also, would it be similar procedure at the caliper end?
yes, you most likely should be able to use the same brake lines on SLX and XT brakes if you upgrade. if you're asking about the hose at the caliper end, you would never cut on that end. The hoses are designed so that you only cut on the brake lever end.
Nice video Clint, I am getting a pair of zee brakes is this pretty much same procedure ? I would also like to put braided hoses on them, can u make a video on how to change hoses ? Thanks
Yes, the process should be the same. As far as changing hoses, it will be like the video I show except for removing the hose from the caliper. There is just one bolt (aka the banjo bolt) holding the hose to the caliper and there should be an o-ring on each side.
Thanks for posting. I have been wondering how to do this for ages. I also did not know about he mineral fluid and being a motorcyclist I am sure I would of used DOT fluid. I am also interested to know whether you can get an open ended torque wrench as all mine only can be used on sockets.
they are called crowfoot adapters, basically a spanner head of certain sizes. google image search "crowfoot adapter for torque wrench" to see what they look like
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good clear instructions CG.
Very clear instructions there, one of the best "how to"videos I've watched. Thank you. Over to bleeding...
For the front brakes the line can be pretty much any length as long as as it reaches the levers because the handle bars always move with the front wheel.
best video I've seen yet on this subject
Without this video I could not have upgraded my brake levers, very clear instructions and no unnecessary jargon. Very helpful video. 👍🏻
The "olive" is known as a "compression ferrell", used in evaporative air conditioners of yesterday.
Brilliant! I got a new set of Shimano front brakes and calipers and the brake hose was too long. Followed your instructions and they worked like a charm. Thanks Clint
everyone here...buy shimano..NOT HAYES.. no wonder brakes on harleys are bad..HAYES>. i would like a conversation with their engineers.. i'd give them an earful.
clear video thank you for your time and effort making it; we appriciate.
Great video Clint. Do you have to replace the olive any time you detach the brake lines from the lever or only if you are shortening the hose? I ask because I got a pair of brakes that came Euro style. I switched the lines and one seems to work great, but the other seems to be leaking. I'm thinking it's either I need to redo the olive and pin every time or maybe I didn't tighten enough (i.e., 8 newtons)? Any thoughts appreciated.
+Blake Durtsche no, you do not need to change the olive every time you remove the cable from the lever. It sounds like you just need to tighten the bolt the holds the cable in the lever. It's pretty finicky. I've had times where I thought it was tight enough but it leaked a little bit. Just taking it a tad more.
+Blake Durtsche *tighten* it a tad more
I dIdn't have a vice, so I wrapped the tube with two layers of duct tape and held it with in place with pliers in my left hand. Using the flat handle of a wrench in the web of my right hand, I was able to grip the pliers with my fingers and press the pin into place. This method is useful if you're doing this in your bedroom, but there's a few drawbacks: 1) success is dependent on your grip strength, and 2) you run the risk of deforming the cable. On the first attempt, the tube bent, and flattened a little where the pliers had gripped it. However, this technique worked perfectly for me on the second try - no deformations at all.
Excellent job. You are really good at explaining steps well.
Nice video, that 'olive' looks like a compression fitting? At least thats what it looks like, never heard that term before, but it works.
It's designed to be crushed
@@smallhatshatethetruth7933 indeed... that's why it's called a "compression" fitting. You compress it or "crush" works too.
Has anyone tried reusing insert pin... I have trouble finding new one, oredring it will take me month or even two months to get it, so I will try reusing it and see how it goes. With being careful I dont see why it wouldnt work, olive must be replaced since it gets crushed but insert pin should be fine if I manage to pull it ou without damaging it...
Great vid, really helpful, didnt think itd be this easy, thanks
i've got ape hanger bars on an xl frame so i need longer hose than come with most sets, is there a process that describes this operation, buying hose adding length?
Do i have to thread in the bolt all the way in before it hits 8 nm torque ??? In my case.. my bolt was already tight that i think its already been threaded in about that NM but it hasnt threaded all the way in
Great video! Very clear. I recently upgraded to SLX brakes and when the arrived in the mail the levers were reversed, i.e. front lever on the right, rear on the left. I want to switch the hoses and the sizes will then be correct. I wont have to do any cutting but i wondered if i will need to bleed the brakes afterwards. Thanks
Sometimes you don't need to bleed if you are careful. I've even cut a hose an not needed to bleed. But the bleeding process is so simple that it's not much of an issue if you do have to.
Clint Gibbs Thanks for the reply. Related to my previous question, would I need to replace the olive if all I'm doing is pulling the hose and inserting in opposite lever? I'm unsure if that would damage it.
No. Olive should be fine. You really only replace it when you have to cut the hose.
Hey, the little silver insert you insert into the hose when its in the vice, is that the one that was there before? or do you have to buy them seperate? im about to buy xt brakes so im guessing i will need to shorten so do i need to buy that insert aswell? or? if so whats the exact name and where from? thanks
+Mathew Pugh If you buy XT brakes that weren't meant to be on a retail bike than they will be in OEM packaging and not bubble wrap. The front brake includes the bleed block and the hose holder. Each set comes with the needle and the olive. The clue lies in the lengths.
Hi thanks for sharing but i need to learn how to install longer cables so i can swap handlebars.
THANK YOUUUUU!!!
Where do you the brake cable insert and olive?
Hii. Are their any chances that it will leak if shorten it? Or are their any chances too if i already cut it and no leak. BUT. If i squeeze slowly the lever will hit the grip. It means their is leaking air? But when you buy new one it doesnt hit the grip when squeezing slowly. ( Sorry half english please answer my question gonna buy mt200 and shorten it. Tia. )
If you do this properly then it will not leak. But it sounds like you need to bleed the brakes.
th-cam.com/video/QciJbZf6Bqc/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for this clear and straightforward video. I am about to do the same thing on my bike and your instructions are very helpful. I wonder yet that no drop(s) of mineral oil spills out of the open end of the hose once you cut it and even move it to your bench vise ... Are the brakes not pre-filled with mineral oil when you buy them?
They are prefilled. The reason not much flows out when you got the hose it’s just because there’s not any airflow that can allow the oil to come out the end.
Very nicely explained 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great tutorial. Much apricated.
I wish I could afford a bike 😔
hey can you mix and match hydraulic disc brake calipers with a diferent set of levers lie shimano lx levers with a difernent pare of calipers
I'm pretty sure you can pair different Shimano calipers and levers but you don't want to mix with any other brand (like Avid or Hayes).
PSSSSSSS
" JAGWIRE " makes nice NEEDLE insertion TOOL !!!!!!!!!!!! No hammer
does this same work to the rear brake?
this is likely a very stupid question, but why did no fluid spill out?
was there no fluid in the lines?
+nobodiesbusiness some comes out but the suction effect keeps a lot of it in. You still should plan on bleeding the brakes after this.
Like a pro :)
Great video. I am installing the same Shimano XT brakes on my Specialized Stumpjumper FSR this weekend. Hoping I don't need to cut the lines but if I do, I now know how.
if i need to dettach the brake lines from the body of my bicycle(cannot be dettached unless another end is free, so it could slide along the holes, should I follow this instruction or is there another way around so I don't need to buy the ones you put inside and outside the cable?
You should be able to remove the brake lines and then reinstall using these instructions.
Hi Clint, I am gonna to mount the XT brakes on my fantastic Trek Fully MTB! I will remove the Avid Elixier brakes which are now very hygroscopic and biking with them really doesn't make fun anymore!
I think your two videos, Cut, Shorten, Re-install and bleed Shimano Hydraulic Brakes are the best I could find now. I didn't find anything comparing in german. Nevertheless, I will go and mount my XT brakes, I'm crossing my fingers for myself!
Regards from Germany, Koblenz :-) Dagmar
Hi! Thank you for the video.. I am trying to install hoses for r8070 caliper and grx shifters. On the shifter the olive and hose goes in and I screw the bolt inwards. It screws away, but doesnt seem to tighten? And on the rear...the olive and hose seem a lot tighter...the bolt screws in and starts to get tight, with maybe one third of the screwed surface left to tighten... Does this make sense? Any ideas, what I could be doing wrong? Thank you!
Great video, thanks for taking the time to educate us, can you show a picture of the type of mineral oil you use and where can i buy Shimano Hydraulic Brake Cables. Thanks
Is it possible to have air in the system after this? Sorry for my bad english.. please respond :/
+stoenchu122 yes, some fluid to leak out which means it will get in the lines. You should plan on bleeding the brakes after this.
You leave just a little bit of housing sticking up from the bleed blocks @ 6:28 however if you leave an excess of the usual 15mm (Lenth of the pin) this means the pin will go in best, by allowing the housing to expand evenly around it and the tension holds it firmly in place.
In your example, the pin will expand mostly the inner wall of the hose and the block will be creating tension/spring in the outer part of the hose around the pin, so, when the blocks come off you might find that tension then releases as the outer layers expand, leaving the pin not as firmly in place.
Of course, the difference is not really going to be notable... Although I'd like to think it would be best practice especially in a bike service shop :)
Great video.. 1 question though... How do I remove an olive that is stuck and in the level? the cable came out without it... 🤷♂️
just got my new brakes and go figure, they're too long..lol..nice video clint..thanks..God bless
People say that an SM-BH59 can be used in place of an SM-BH90, 59 is for road bikes, whilst 90 is used on mtb bikes, I know the internal diameter is larger on 59 than the 90 which is smaller...what would be the difference in operation/feel between the two, I want to install the Saint 810 DH brakes on my Giant Fathom.
Many Thanks and Kind Regards in advance ; )
Ooh!! I can't make my mind up between Mavic or DT Swiss? Do you have a preference??
My preferences DT Swiss. I cannot speak from direct experience with smaller brake lines but I would imagine you're going to lose some modulation. But that's just the theory. Never tried it.
Thank You Clint! I'll go for the DT Swiss then
God Bless : )
Clint, there's a much easier way to trim the line without having to bleed the entire system, just the top portion. You don't even have to remove the brake pads just make sure everything at the bottom end, brakes and rotors, are covered with some rags incase there's some spillage. When you cut the line at the top, everything else you did gets done the same, just cut the line, attach it back to the lever housing and tighten. Remove the bleed cover, attach the cup and add mineral oil, pump the lever several times and what ever air is at the top end of the braking system, will come out. Make sure your cables are propped up so that oil doesn't leak downward after you cut the lines. Also, make sure that they're paying attention to the "o" ring that's part of the bleed screw or screw cap and that it doesn't fall off…and you're done.
Don't be stingy about sliding that nail into the brake line to open it up a little. The little insert split open and sliced through the outside of the brake cable. I managed to salvage the insert by filing the end down and reforming it. Hopefully the connection doesn't leak. I haven't bled it yet.
And the bike shop makes it seem like a complex operation. I install swage fittings at work, on steel process lines all the time, and you've shown me that is all there is to it. Just like the brand we use, the tightening nut does the swaging. Thanks - easier than cable brakes.
great video man
Buena...
Superb video Clint - made light work of my new brake installation - in tandem with your other vid on brake bleeding. Top stuff
Excellent vid. Great help. Im a noob and have had to learn everything from scratch.
I have the same Anthem as you Clint,. On this bike though, how does one route outer cables shifters or outer brake into the frame of this bike, does it require a thin tube as a guide or could one just remove the old inners first then use the old outers as a guide to feed in new inners then take out the old outers with the new inners as guide to put the new outers? all these without using any other tube that one would have to get from a hardware store as a guide?
Secondly, we know you do get the olive with the new brakes but, what if you but a fairly-used brakes or where do you olives and the other connector insert?
Thanks for making this video. It helped me understand it much better. BTW, the manual also states to apply premium grease to the threads and the olive.
Blimey mate, I wondered what those plastic blocks are that came with my bike! Now I know, top work fella.
this is the same as installing plastic plumbing pipe, score, thats gonna make my life a lot easier being a plumber
Het is beter om een kunststof hamer te gebruiken, metaal op metaal is niet zo handig in verband met bramen.
Thank you SO much
Thanks for making this, clear and informative, very happy i found this.
Awesome video. Very clear and easy to follow instructions. Thank you.
Hey Clint, nice vid , I am currently running Shimano M210 hydraulics but want to upgrade to SLX, do I have to use the hose that comes with the SLX or can I just use the hose thats on my current set up since they are already cut to the length that I need. Thanks in advance.
99% sure you can just use the same hydraulic hose. Keep the other one as a spare.
@@ClintGibbs Thanks a bunch Clint!!... Keep up the good work!
Really well done. Super clear and concise. Thanks so much.
Nice vid, thanks! I've got a really spongy feel to my rear brake (Avid Elixir R with 180 mm rotor). I'm thinking about upgrading to steel braided lines b/c even with several bleeds the rear sucks. Front is OK. I've determined that the rubber line must be the main cause for the spongy feel.
Very considerate (and thus excellent) how-to. Thanks. :)
very healpfull
great video. thanks for putting towel on bike so we can easily see what you are doing.
Great content mate. Cheers. Just what i needed, took me a while to find but when i got there, bingo.
Best video tutorials. saves so much money doing this stuff yourself.
Thank you so much! i need to do this. I just need to buy all the parts first
Very well done video. Thank you for posting this.
great informative video;it's been a while since I did any maintenance
Great job! Thanks for your help Clint!!
7:13 is where I was lost now I am found thanks to you. Will install my new brake levers in a few days when I get mineral fluid.
Maybe someone sees this in time... I'm gonna receive a replacement Saint lever soon and I'm wondering if I can leave the brake line with the olive and the insert as it is and just screw it into the new lever of if a need to cut the cable and use a new olive and insert. Anyone?
@Clint Gibbs
Yes, you can do that. Of course this assumes the length of the hose is appropriate. If you have to shorten it then you have to put in a new Olive and hose insert.
@@ClintGibbs Thanks a lot for your reply!
Hey! is it possible to put a Front brake in the back wheel ?????
+TheDoors00 sure. You can just swap the hoses from one level to the other. In the mountain biking world they call it Moto Style, when you use the left lever to operate the rear brake. When you do that there's a good chance you're going to have to bleed the brakes but you don't need to replace the olive on the hoses when you do it, assuming you don't have to cut any hoes to make them shorter.
Clint Gibbs Thanks a lot for the reply and info! xD that sounds pretty gnarly, would it be possible to turn the lever upside-down and put it on the right side?
No, the reservoir needs to be in a certain position.
Very good mechanic, thanks Clint.
Clear and concise. Thanks for making the video.
What if you don't have the connector insert and the olive that round ring because you bought a used brake? CAn I pull out the old olive, straighten it and take out the insert and reuse them? how can I get them if all these can't be done?
No, you cannot reuse an olive. Your local bike shop should be able to order one. If you don’t have a shop nearby you should be able to find one online.
JooFn MTB Mountain Bike Bicycle Olive and Connecting Insert for SHIMANO BH90 Hydraulic Disc Brake Hose (BH90) www.amazon.com/dp/B077VPSJKL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_0AVsCbQX5M9AZ
@@ClintGibbs Thanks, I got them
Can I use this method to swap my right front brake to be the right back brake instead(vice versa)?
Yes. You would just need to unscrew the lines, screw them into the other lever and then bleed them.
Thank you!
Terrific video! Clear, concise, and well-organized. Many thanks!
I got stuck at olive,i was looking for a tool online lol.Thanks Clint !
I just did this for the first time with a multi tool some pliers and a pair of snips
Great Video👍 that really helped a lot. Thanks!
Thanks ! Defintely no need for a shop when I upgrade.
Clint where you buy the tape.l want to go rubles.
hi Clint just got my shimano xt ice tech brakes the bike shop told me that these brakes need to be bedded in so they told me to find a nice steep decent and to apply these brakes as hard as i can to heat them up is this the right way to do this please can you give me some tips thanks Clint.
That's about right. What I do is go on the road and get up to about 20 miles per hour and then apply both brakes hard to a full stop. I repeat that 10 times.
thanks very much for the tip Clint
Hey Clint, thanks for another great video. Let me know... if i dont want to cut, just want to switch left housing to the right lever and right housing to the left lever... would i need new olives? TY.
No. You can use the same olive if you don't have to cut the lines.
Clint Gibbs but i will need to bleed it anyway, right?
Sometimes you don't. Don't let the cable drop down so the fluid leaks out. Install and test the brakes to see if they need to be bled.
Thank you!!
Clint Gibbs
That's great news! Thank you *so much* for this video, it really helps!! :)
Very useful. Many thanks buddy.
Great vid. Precise, clear, and easy to follow. Thanks.
Hello, what is the size of the connector pin and olive for Shimano MT200?
As far as I know there is only one size.
@@ClintGibbs No. I found 2 types BH59 & BH90
@@psbalan1 then I would have your LBS contact Shimano regarding the size for your brake system. I've only seen one size.
Thanks Clint! great instruction, really helped out ;) ;)
Hey Clint. I liked your video. It was very clear and easy to follow. I have a question for you, if you don't mind? I'm switching my lines from "moto" to bicycle and the housing seems to be stuck/jammed in the lever body. I reefed on it pretty hard to no avail. Any ideas? They are Saint 810's. I've been running either Magura or Shimnao forever without trouble...
Thanks, Derek
If you have the housing bolt all the way out, which I'm sure you do, then it can take some force. The doughnut gets jammed inside the leaver body. Try shaking the housing back and forth while you pull on it.
You explain things so well and so clearly. Can I ask, I have deore brakeset on my Trance 2015. If I were to upgrade to SLX or XT, would it be ok to just leave the current brake housing in place and do what you did here? Also, would it be similar procedure at the caliper end?
yes, you most likely should be able to use the same brake lines on SLX and XT brakes if you upgrade. if you're asking about the hose at the caliper end, you would never cut on that end. The hoses are designed so that you only cut on the brake lever end.
Excellent video and attention to detail. Well done!
Nice video! tnx for sharing
Clear explanation. Thank you.
Great video thank you 🙏🏻
Thank you... This is very helpfull for me
Nice video Clint, I am getting a pair of zee brakes is this pretty much same procedure ? I would also like to put braided hoses on them, can u make a video on how to change hoses ? Thanks
Yes, the process should be the same. As far as changing hoses, it will be like the video I show except for removing the hose from the caliper. There is just one bolt (aka the banjo bolt) holding the hose to the caliper and there should be an o-ring on each side.
Thanks again for making such a great easy to follow video.. You've saved me so much time and money with your videos!!
Thanks for posting. I have been wondering how to do this for ages. I also did not know about he mineral fluid and being a motorcyclist I am sure I would of used DOT fluid. I am also interested to know whether you can get an open ended torque wrench as all mine only can be used on sockets.
they are called crowfoot adapters, basically a spanner head of certain sizes.
google image search "crowfoot adapter for torque wrench" to see what they look like
Or is possible shorten cut without bleeding? To shorten it without losing oil!
Yes, but always be prepared to bleed the brakes.
:(
Where place is the best for Shorten? Shifter or derailleur! I hope it part 4:33 is a equal on both sides?
This method work well. Nice video!
thank you! helped me a lot :)
What if u don’t have a vice?
ĸaιne use a vice grips or adjustable wrench. You just have to hold it tight enough to hammer the pin in.