Did this video help you out? Buy me a beer🍺by going to rvwithtito.com/victron and using my preferred supplier for your Victron gear and to rvwithtito.com/battleborn for lithium batteries. Cheers! (BTW: This was NOT sponsored so every bit of support helps)
@@bobmakow55 That is really going to depend on what additional Victron equipment you choose for your system. Interface cables will probably be needed. At a minimum you should get a USB interface cable so you can program the Inverter from your computer.
*A quiet **Generater.Systems** , love the dual fuel capabilities, camper is 50 amp but the adapter helps and found it still handles the load. Haven't taken a camping trip yet, that's in a couple of weeks. Will see how well it does over a long weekend.*
You explained this very well. I have done all my own off grid solar/electrical system for my house but was trying to understand the RV system and you cleared it up beautifully. Now I understand and know this is the system I need, I wasn't sure until watching your video. Great Job.
We have used the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
I initially used the Victron 3000W and AM Solar "Smart Phase Selector" for my 50A RV and I've had nothing but problems over the past year. I would constantly lose one side of the panel and at times, both sides. The two were not happy together. I was so happy to see Victron release this new model that I immediately purchased it and removed the extra component. You made a great choice.
That's also what I've heard from an installer friend about the phase selector. Thanks for confirming. Agreed....this inverter is a very welcome upgrade. I'm glad I waited.
My two RV hero’s are Bryan and James at the FitRV. Amazing knowledge and fantastic educators. RV manufacturers need to hire you guys as consultants not just influencers.
Cannot agree more. Thank you for taking the time to walk through step by step in your shop and out in the RV. Will you be installing surge protector before your Mulltiplus II?
Brian, I've used several of your innovative construction mods: flexible panels with t rails, aluminum angle cages for batteries and others. In 2020, I went with an entire Victron system for my class C Navion: 640w on roof, 400w Aux on ground, 4 MPPTs for max efficiency of shading, DC to DC converter, and lots of new increased gauge wiring to meet safety. Then installed the 12vdc dual compressor NOVAKOOL refrigerator. We're 30 amper So went with the multiplus 3000. I've not had a moment's problem and Think Victron is the gold standard for RVs and sailboats.
Hello from the high desert of New Mexico USA 🇺🇸. Great job Brian on the installation. That's the inverter that I want to get for my 1967 GM TDH-4519 city transit bus but I just don't have the money for it and my old AGM batteries took a dump on me so I really need to get batteries first because I live in my bus full-time and don't have any power when the sun goes down. Keep up the good work and stay safe and God bless you and your family and America 🇺🇸
Such a well made and easy to understand video, thanks Brian for the awesome content! I've been looking through a bunch of resources to try to understand how this device works but no one seems to be able to explain it in non-electrical-engineer terms. Thanks again :)
Just started this journey for my 5th wheel (ie meaning just started researching on how to do all of this DIY) your explanations have been great. Really appreciate this content. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks Jared. It's a great inverter as you know :) and easy to setup. Your videos about it were very helpful as well. I'm working on getting the rest of the videos edited and published. System is working great.
I just installed the same inverter. Took my first trip last week with it. So far I love it! Be sure to install the temperature sensor and turn on the function to stop charging during freezing temps. To do that, you have to turn on lithium battery mode. Can't wait to see your final setup.
I did program the low temp cutoff. It's using the temp sensor in the Smart Shunt which is located right next to the batteries. I also have a high-temp switch on a fan behind the inverter to pull hot air out when it gets warm in there. Thanks for the suggestions.
I too installed this inverter and 712 and color control. My BattleBorn batteries are inside the heated fifth wheel. So I didn’t enable this setting. The likelihood of them being that cold is very rare especially if you live in San Diego. Also battle Born batteries BMS will protect them from cold temperature charging. The 712 will report the battery temperature via the color control or phone app. So this setting doesn’t always have to be set. Depends upon your installation and camping style. I guess it couldn’t hurt.
One of the best install videos I’ve seen. I also liked how you pre-wired the battery input and output before installing the inverter. Can’t wait for the next video. We have a Winnebago Vista 30T and would like to do a very similar set up.
Brian, as always, you can take the technical aspect of your RV upgrades to a lay-mans understanding. Thank you for all of your videos, I look forward to seeing your next project. Also, thank you for the Solar downloads that you have provided on your web site. I installed a 400 watt solar system on my RV two years ago, and it works OK, but, I do want to upgrade to lithium batteries and more solar. Now I can compare that to your solar diagrams.. and feel confident in my upgrade. Take care, wish you and your misses the best.
That's probably the best explanation I've seen out there! Victron should hire you to do some of their videos (their site is terrible!) I would love to see a system like this that also acts as a charge controller, I think that might help justify a bit of that cost -- They're pricey little pieces!
Thanks so much. I see arguments both ways. Personally I prefer separate components instead of having the charge controller as part of the inverter. It limits the flexibility of your design.
Great to see your video. I'm heading this way based on a couple of videos from @AllAboutRVs. This is a great solution for our class A to power the entire coach with the single inverter. I'm pairing it with two Vatrer 460 AH LiFePO4 batteries. Thanks again for all the great information!
Glad it was helpful! Good luck with your project. Epoch has a couple good 460Ah LFPs as well with all the bells and whistles (including Victron communication). I'll be reviewing them soon.
@@RVwithTito I have an epoch And it shipped broken, customer service doesn't return calls. Luckily I was able to take it apart myself and found it was just a loose cable. But will go with LiTime or something else next time.
I’ve been watching solar installation videos ever since I retired from 38 years of trucking in 2015….while I’ve learned a lot in that time about solar installs I have to confess YOU just twisted my brain in half with ‘this’ video! Lol! It’s somewhat confusing to me but at the same time I find it very fascinating! Thanks for sharing! Happy New Year! ~Jim~
I totally understand Jim. The AC side of things is a bit more confusing than the solar and DC side of the system. I'll get to the solar setup soon, which will make more sense.
I am working on installing my Victron MP II 12V 3000VA but it is going into a fixed location, a radio shack for ham radio. I am having to think quite a bit and look forward to getting it going. Later I will put some solar... it is a much smaller capacity than yours... I am doing the 400Ah minimum that the V manual states and can grow it later. I am going to use it with 120 30 in and later when 50 amp service is available put both in.
Nice work and explanation Brian. Watching your videos has helped me with a lot of my RV projects. I had weight limitations so went with two 100 amp Battle Borns and a Victron 2000 inverter for our 30 amp RV. Works like charm and my wife is happy with her coffee when boondocking. Will go with something like your new set up when we upgrade our 5th wheel in a few years. Thanks for paving the way! Happy New Year!!
Great description of how the pass-through split-phase inverter works. I have had trouble describing how this works on my RV. In order to run my air conditioners (one at a time) from my battery bank I also had to do a full rewire of the electrical distribution panel. Right now we are dry camping in an area that is still 75-80 degrees at night and we run the air conditioner from our battery bank all night recharging the battery bank from the solar and generator the next day. Sadly our 1800 watts of incorrectly angled solar panels can't keep up with our air conditioner use.
Tito, I love your videos. New RV'er here. I also have a Winnebago class a ('14 Vista 31ke) and a? running victron components (12/3000, cerbo gx, smart shunt and a 100/50 MPPT.). I just wanted to say I really appreciate all your videos, and I look forward to seeing the rest of this install. Even though I only have a 30amp set up, I feel this entire video is still very applicable. Cheers!
Excited to see this series. It has always been fuzzy to me on how to accomplish this and properly interface with the other electrical systems on the RV. Looking forward to your next video.
Isn't that same effect as using the 30A male -to- 50A femaie Dog Bone? Why do you need a Transfer switch? Either way, you have the same problem when there is NO AC power input ... The Victron is running on the Battery Bank only, now how do you bridge the Victron L1 & L2 outputs? The Victron has OPENED both L1 & L2 inputs removing your bridge between L1 & L2.
Can I use the multiplus 2 on 30a service and just use one leg? I am going to eventually going to upgrade to 50a but want to buy the Victron now; however, I dont want to spend the money on a multiplus then have to buy the Multiplus 2.
Sure can. I rarely plug in anymore and when I do it's usually only 15A. The Multiplus will split the output across both legs if you have them both wired up. If not then just wire up L1, neutral and the ground. 👍
@@RVwithTito We picked up a 94 Holiday Rambler Diesel Pusher. Making a playlist of all the fixes and upgrades we are doing. I'm going to reference this video if it is ok since you do a great job explaining it.
@TignerAdventures Great. Nice upgrade. I remember you guys from Casa Grande. Hope you're doing well. There is an entire playlist about that project. Let me know if you have any questions. 👍 The only thing I'd do differrntly now is to install one of the new Quattro II units instead of multiplus. Then you can ditch the atomatic transfer switch.
@@RVwithTito The wire you tapped into already had gone through the transfer switch. So it would have been more work running wires to eliminate it. So since you have a ATS would you still prefer the Quattro? Does it manage the connections better?
@@TignerAdventures You're right. It's definitely not essential, just another option. To do it, I would have to run an extra cable from the ATS location. It would just eliminate the ATS. I had to replace my ATS a while back anyway. There would be some additional controls you'd have but I haven't dug into it in great detail yet.
This is exactly the device I want for exactly the same reasons. Thank you so much for the clear explanation of what it's doing and how. Now to figure out the solar part.
Just about to install the same inverter in my Newmar, Dutch Star. What an upgrade, the hybrid function and ability to pass thru is awesome. Thanks for your help awesome DIY videos!!
Enjoy your channel immensely. Helped me with several projects. BUT I couldn’t find a video about insulating the underbelly of a Class C. We’ve done some winter camping in or minnie Winnie 25b. I have been considering installing foam board underneath it to help conserve heat and cool. For example the rear cargo holds are just plastic tubs exposed directly to elements and there are large areas that are bare subfloor exposed. All waterlines run inside so it would seem to be just a process of jenga with foam boards to create an additional barrier. I didn’t know if you have enclosed or insulated anything. I know you’ve done cold weather camping so I figured I’d ask?
You need to make is very clear that not all MultiPlus-II Inverters, actually work like your Inverter. You have a *special* MultiPlus-II, called the MultiPlus-II *2x120* . That is the only model of MultiPlus-II Inverter that supports the automatic switch-over between 50 Amp Split-Phase and 30 amp Single-phase.
Hey. Also the quirkie thing you may discover with the Cerberus is that you cannot trigger a relay with the temp sensor. Example. I have a fan that kicks on at 90. Had to do it with separate unit. This is a programming issue that victron has not done. Thanks again
Love your approach. Would a multiplus eliminate the need for my rvs transferr switch and the converter boxes!? Would be nice to wite everything into the multi box. Fyi, i still have a generator in the rv, besides shore power inputs for ac.
Even if my class A RV runs on 30a, your approach and logic is very sound. I may have a few concerns of additional weight that will have to distributed evenly with the batteriea on both sides of the RV and how it influences your tire pressure levels but aside from that, it's very good.
I am in the process of installing a Victron MP II and until now, it has been somewhat intimidating. You explained things in a way even I could understand. 😁 Thank you. I look forward to viewing your other videos.
Nice work, and nicely planned. I read the article about in RV Today. I can see why you like tinkering around your RV and making it more efficient and RV’ng off the grid.
Thanks! Yes. There's always something that could use some improvement. It's a great feeling when you finally get to use it and benefit from your hard work too :)
Thanks Brian, one question, did you disable the converter charge wire to the batteries? Or doe both the inverter and converter charge the batteries? Thanks for the great instruction
Good information Sir . I just purchased the exact components that you just installed but I do not understand why you ran your Shore and generator into the existing transfer switch because that inverter already has it's own built in transfer switch . Please explain and thank you.
The two transfer switches serve different purposes. The RV's Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) switches between generator and shore power coming into the RV. The Inverter's transfer switch handles the switching between incoming AC power (from the ATS) and inverter power. That incoming power could be from shore power or from the generator (hence the other transfer switch).
My question is normally you would have two AC panels one being powered by inverter either in pass through or when inverter is turned on. It looks like the open hole above the panel you wired into may have been that panel. How are you powering all those circuits that the old inverter powered.
These large hybrid inverters are designed to be full house inverters managing and switching between shore, generator and battery power sources. It's what we prefer since we RV solely off-grid and don't plug in. Some might consider this type of configuration a bad thing...a single point of failure. Do you lose power to the entire RV if your inverter fails? Actually, yes. That's something to consider. It's why we chose to spend more money on a high quality unit like this Victron Multiplus II. It's well tested and very robust. Not to say that this too won't fail. It just hasn't. We've been running it 24/7 for the last year without a hick-up. So far so good. I used to carry a spare pure sine inverter...just in case. But I no longer do. What you are describing is how it used to be when inverters were smaller and didn't have hybrid functionality. Of course you could still setup your system that way with dedicated inverter circuits. The 200W inverter I ripped out of the 03 Winnebago only powered the TV and an AC plug in the cabinet. I rewired that plug to tie into the main AC service. Hope that helps.
@stevekrud2715 The MutltiPlus-II *2x120* ( in ths video ) is rated at 3,000VA. Which is only 2,400 Watts continuously. It will *not* run everything in a 50 Amp RV. Probably not even 50%.
One thing you missed mentioning - the Multiplus II can 'boost' power - so if you have 30 (or 15!)A, you set that as your input - and if you 'use' more, the inverter will use the batteries, up to a 20A boost, to make things work. Great for moochdocking off a 15A cable at someones house for example :D
I’m guessing here, but, the white hose coming down in front of your inverter would seem to be either the drain from your sink(?) to the grey tank or your fresh water fill line. I had one of those crack over time. That location would not be a good place for a leak. I hope you have inspected and or replaced that if its pretty old or potentially have a plan to keep your electrical equipment protected. Good video! Happy new year!
Yes. I'm keeping an eye on that. It's the gravity fill for the water tank an it's in good shape. No leaks currently. Also, nothing is sitting directly on the bottom of the compartment and all cables have drip lines. All that's missing is probably a drain hole.
Just purchased the parts to install a Multi in my rv as well... but final install has to wait until spring. I only have to deal with 30a though. I didn't buy the dongles, with bench testing it seems that I can configure everything through VRM via the Cerbo so decided to save a few bucks.
Everything on mine also goes through the Cerbo, but I still need the PC app to fully program the inverter. It would be nice to program it through Victron Connect.
Here is my 'million dollar' question. I have a Victron Quattro 5KVA (5000 watts) inverter in my coach. I have it wired basically like this. My thought is why even have the transfer switch in the equation. The inviter will switch something like 120 amps between the generator, shore power and batteries. It can shift in a fraction of a section and start and sop the generator.
@@MrSummitville well it’s a 50 amp coach with parallel lines in the coach. 4 wired + ground vs what a household dryer that is 240 between 3 wires and ground.
REALLY enjoyed the video, Brian! I would LOVE IT if you would do a video on things to consider in buying an older RV - I want to consider doing the same, but I don't have an old friend with an old RV that I can trust!
I'm not getting 240v when on solar, just 120v. So it would only be possible when running from the shore power or generator with a bunch of rewiring. For me, I'd go for a 12V mini split instead.
Another great episode Tito! You did not mention that if you are just plugged into a 30A socket that the inverter can 'boost' the AC power to 50A to power the entire coach (water heater, dual roof ac, etc) using power from the battery bank which may also be supplied from solar panels. Victron equipment with the Cerbo, Touch 50, BVM712, is just so easy to work with and reasonably priced (compared to some of the Xantrex stuff which seems to be VERY expensive).
You do a great job here i thank you . curious i also have a scimarine system in place and want the mutiplus . Question did you keep the scimarine and did it connect with victron well.
Looking good. I like the blue wire cover ... My system is much smaller ... and using a victron solar and dc to dc ... but not hooked up. I'm using a measly 200 amps... which is okay for my mini motorhome.. just trying to decide if and when to use an inverter.
In your initial explanation of the four wires you use the term "sides" Perhaps "legs" would be a more accurate term. Note the Victron panel labels the hots as L1 and L2.
Yes that's correct. Just trying to choose the right language to make it clearer, but I ended up using both terms interchangeably :) Thanks for the comment.
Another great video and install. As usual, a couple of things for you. The 6 gauge wire you use for the AC panel is too small for the 50 AMP load. It appears the wire you pulled out is bigger. I used 4 gauge wire to wire my AC panel. If the transfer switch is original, replace it. I don't like automatic transfer switches anyway but they are a necessary evil. Check all the contacts inside yours, they may have burn marks on them. They can be cleaned up but I'd rather replace them. Better safe than sorry.
Thanks for the suggestions. The original wiring was also #6 so I kept it the same. Good note on the ATS. I also replaced mine when I found some burnt contacts. All good now.
It all depends on the ampacity of the wire used. Romex #6 can absolutely handle 50a. 8awg Ancor marine wire can handle 50a. I suggest you look up the ampacity table of your conductors before you make these kinds of comments
@@kirktruman6707 Nothing. The converter has been removed. There was a small inverter mounted up front that would power the TV. I removed that also. The new inverter powers everything AC and charges the batteries. The DC panel is powered by the same circuit. Take a look at my diagram I provided. It may help visualize things.
Hey Bryan I watched your video again this morning. I am impressed with your shop. I'm really interested in how you went ahead and benched test, configured, your inverter before install. I also have the MK3-USB and assumed ---- that with proper isolation of components I could wait until installation of the inverter and then the Cerbo GX /Touch 50 on account of the Lynx system. I was thinking as long as I had a long enough cable and a comfortable spot again I assumed----- Just thinking
You could certainly set it all up during install. It was pretty cold and rainy outside. So hooking it all up and testing it in the shop was better for me. Plus I could workout any issues ahead of time. Good luck!
Would love to tackle this job, but completely electrically ignorant. Your fit and finish is beautiful, I think that takes some artistic knowledge. I can't draw a stickman! Have all the tools though.
Nice job Bryan, I am installing the same exact thing! I just need to get two more batteries, at least the price came down… in my opinion this is one of the best systems on the market.
What batteries are you using? I contacted Renogy recently and was told all lithium phosphate batteries should be purchased within 6 months of each other, so they age at the same rate, and you're not adding a new battery to used batteries. Are you aware of this? I have two Renogy 170 ah, and wanted to add another, but they are super expensive, and actually went up by over $100 in the last few months $1,600 - 1,700.
@@animallovefest143 I have 3 Battleborn GC3 batteries. Checkout my previous video to see how I hooked them up. I don't think that's a hard rule, especially with LiFePO4 batteries that have a very long lifespan. But if it's what they say, then that's it. It's certainly an important guideline with lead acid batteries.
Your videos are so interesting. I've watched tons of them as we upgrade our class A. Wondering how much room you had beneath your Victron Multiplus II after mounting it to the wall.
I have a question; I installed the inverter as well, but should I also ground the inverter to my van. It is a bit unclear whatever video I am watching. thanks for your help.
Many thanks for your video. I just purchased one to replace our MultiPlus and SPS unit. I have a quick question for you. Did you use ferrels on the AC input and output connections. If so can you recommend the size and suitable crimping tool. Thanks again.
@@LouCetrangelo Did you purchase the specific Multi-Plus-II *2x120* model shown in the video? How is the noise level and hum when under full load? Do you have a 50 Amp 240 RV? If yes, then how many appliances can you run on battery-only and for how long? It is rated at only 2,400 watts!!!
Awesome Video!!! 👍👍 I've been holding off on a install in my Travel Trailer because I knew it was going to get to small for full time fast, I just traded it for a larger 5th wheel camper 👍 , the only thing I need to figure out is what to do with the 12v converter? Since it's needed to power everything 12v in the camper, the issue is it will also want to charge the batteries and it's not safe for the Lithium batteries. I'm not sure if I can just remove the circuit that's supposed to charge the coach batteries or I will need to replace it with a converter that's Lithium compatible? This technology is so far ahead of what the RV manufacturers are doing.
Brian, I enjoy watching your videos. I have Battleborn house batteries, under the step and 4 more, with the Multiplus II to install. I did notice that you installed yours kind of tight to the top and looks like restricting your air flow. They do generate heat when loaded. Trying to find an area for these is a challenge for most of us.
Ok , offgrid cabin . Solar 30amp 30amp sinle pole breaker hooked to side B Genorator 40amp 240v . Wired int a home breaker box , Genorator hooked to main breaker suppling power to A n B sides . So this enverter would allow me to take battery power and Genorator power IN , and send double phase power to main breaker . Supply power to A n B . And the enverter would do the automatically switch . Fallow , then I would be able to balance the load , and could use 240 for my well pump .?
Am I mistaken? But I was told by more than one source that to meet NEC, you need a disconnect (or breaker) between your xfer switch and your inverter. The victron schematics also showed a DC cutoff switch. Why did you choose to leave these out?
I do have a DC cutoff switch. No breaker from the xfer switch though. You're correct about that. Just didn't feel I needed one, but it's a good idea if you wanted to add one for your setup.
Unbelievable timing, Thank You!! I noticed our 4 golf cart battery cases bulging a couple weeks ago. We just got this inverter, a Cerbo GX, and 4 SOK 206AH lithium batteries to replace those batteries and our Magnum ME2012 inverter/charger. I'm hoping the install is "plug and play". I see that you use a bus bar for your batteries. I'm staying with 2/0 welding cable. Can you recommend a hydraulic crimper?
You should be setup well with those batteries and the multiplus. Here's the crimper I used: amzn.to/3ziuQtQ It worked pretty well up to 4/0. Good luck with your upgrades!
Hey Brian: I’ve got this exact inverter charger coming to replace a broken magnum in my Renegade Classic. I do have a 50 amp input BUT for right now, I’m just going to use a single phase. Plug and play till I have more time to take full advantage of this inverter. I will only have one input and one output. Do you know, do I use “L1 or L2” for my one input and output? Thanks so much.
So if I have a 50 amp system and use a dog bone to 30amp, will both L1 and L2 still have 120vac just be in phase? Same with generator running, would L1 and L2 be hot? I heard it will see them as in phase and shut down L2, is that true?
Yes. It will be single phase on L1 and L1 coming in, but I believe the inverter detects single phase and only looks at L1. It will then branch it internally to both L1 and L2....I think. In either case, the inverter treats it as a pass-through.
Hi Brian, how did you fair out with the flexible panels and why aren't you using them anymore. I have an older Class A that we don't want to get rid of. It's all-aluminum, exterior, and the entire roof including welded aluminum frame structure. I really don't want to screw anything into it if you know what i mean. I found that coroplast with ethernabond tape a great idea. Was it?
The flexible panels work great on the class C. This is my favorite mounting system for that th-cam.com/video/uJIEXhnF8MU/w-d-xo.html I chose to go with large traditional panels on the Class A because I found a great deal on some large ones to maximize my solar intake. I could have certainly gone the flex route too.
Was it easier to take all wires from distribution panel, back to MultPlus vs taking output from your TS and connecting that to output of Multiplus. Then, you'd only have to wire from the output of TS to input on Multiplus. I did mine this way, but 3 years ago with a GoPower IC2000. Keep up the GREAT work. Maybe someday we'll bump into each other here in the PNW.
Depends where you mount the inverter. Mine was very close to the distribution panel with the ATS on the other end of the rig. If the inverter were closer to the ATS then your suggestion would be the way to go. Take it easy!
Thanks, I really enjoyed your explanation. I am looking to get one of these to replace my xantrex 2000w inverter. When I bought my rv it was already set up with the inverter and the previous owner split off the circuits he wanted to be inverted. With this multiplus II could I simply run one of the outputs to that panel and then the second one to my regular panel and power everything that way?
Great video. It is well done. I noticed you using copper straps and buss bar mounts. I couldn't find any of these items for my build, so I used cable and lugs, some of which are 4-0 which is so clumsy to work with. Where do you get your copper buss supplies?
Thanks for the video, great stuff. Question, I have the same inverter with a 30amp shore input. Would you see a need to breaker or fuse that input before the inverter in case the inverter tries to pull 50amp?
Thanks for easy understanding Video. Why whould you need 2 positive & 2 negative post in the Victron ? And if i purchase this unit, will i still need a Victron Mppt ?
When installing solar panels I'm curious about how thick most rv roofs are and how far can you drive a bolt into them before you punch through the finished inside of the roof.
Hello, i enjoy your channel alot. Lots of great info. One question i have, i put in a lithium converter/charger last year in my rv. If I get one of these multi plus 2 units, it will also replace my converter charger right?. Thanks for any info.
Dude great job! Looks very professional. Well explained I understand all of the functions i would need now! My only question is do you have to do anything special when you connect shore power? Or does it auto register that you added input?
It's automatic. Once the inverter detects split phased shore power, it automatically switches to AC pass through mode. The system is very programmable and there are a few related settings that will determine how that is done.
Thanks. Two questions. 1. On a 3K inverter are you concerned about inrush current frying your battery BMS? 2. Have you had any issues with inverter high temperature warnings/shutdown with the Multiplus installed in a relatively confined space?
1. Haven't had any issues, but I'll keep an eye on it 2. I installed a cooling fan with programmable temp switch behind the inverter that will vent the compartment when it heats up.
Just found your video. I am installing the very same Multiplus inverter in my 50 amp camper. Noticed you used the very same power cable, which was re-assuring because I thought I made a mistake with that 6/3 with bare copper ground. AM Solar shows a 6/4 insulated ground in their tutorial. Question: What size cable did you use to ground the inverter/charger? Did you go right to chassis or back to the negative bus bar for that ground? If you went back to the bus bar, what size cable did you use from the bus bar to the chasis? Thanks!
2005 Monaco Knight, 50amp coach -- 4 wires into my surge protecter and into the transfer switch. When I pulled the line in from the transfer switch to the old Magnum ME2012 inverter/charger, it only has 3 wires. Monaco used a jumper on the Line In from line 1 to line 2. The Line Out cable from the inverter to the breaker panel is a 4-wire line. Can I use the same jumper arrangement they used for the Line In on my new Victron MultiPlus-II?
Did this video help you out? Buy me a beer🍺by going to rvwithtito.com/victron and using my preferred supplier for your Victron gear and to rvwithtito.com/battleborn for lithium batteries. Cheers! (BTW: This was NOT sponsored so every bit of support helps)
@rvwithtito Brian what accessories do I need to order with the Multiplus II
@@bobmakow55 That is really going to depend on what additional Victron equipment you choose for your system. Interface cables will probably be needed. At a minimum you should get a USB interface cable so you can program the Inverter from your computer.
*A quiet **Generater.Systems** , love the dual fuel capabilities, camper is 50 amp but the adapter helps and found it still handles the load. Haven't taken a camping trip yet, that's in a couple of weeks. Will see how well it does over a long weekend.*
You explained this very well. I have done all my own off grid solar/electrical system for my house but was trying to understand the RV system and you cleared it up beautifully. Now I understand and know this is the system I need, I wasn't sure until watching your video. Great Job.
Great! Glad it helped. Good luck with your project.
You explained the inverter better than anyone I've listened to yet. Great video Brian.
Wow. Thanks!
We have used the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
Having installed a Victron Multiplus 2 3000W in previous rv I can say your explanation was well done and complete, nice job.
I initially used the Victron 3000W and AM Solar "Smart Phase Selector" for my 50A RV and I've had nothing but problems over the past year. I would constantly lose one side of the panel and at times, both sides. The two were not happy together. I was so happy to see Victron release this new model that I immediately purchased it and removed the extra component. You made a great choice.
That's also what I've heard from an installer friend about the phase selector. Thanks for confirming. Agreed....this inverter is a very welcome upgrade. I'm glad I waited.
Probably the best video description of the Victron Multiplus II - absolutely great!!
Thanks. I appreciate that 👍
My two RV hero’s are Bryan and James at the FitRV. Amazing knowledge and fantastic educators. RV manufacturers need to hire you guys as consultants not just influencers.
brian
Cannot agree more. Thank you for taking the time to walk through step by step in your shop and out in the RV. Will you be installing surge protector before your Mulltiplus II?
Thanks. I'm rarely on shore power, so I picked up an in-line 50A surge protector instead of a hard-wired one.
Brian, I've used several of your innovative construction mods: flexible panels with t rails, aluminum angle cages for batteries and others. In 2020, I went with an entire Victron system for my class C Navion: 640w on roof, 400w Aux on ground, 4 MPPTs for max efficiency of shading, DC to DC converter, and lots of new increased gauge wiring to meet safety. Then installed the 12vdc dual compressor NOVAKOOL refrigerator. We're 30 amper So went with the multiplus 3000. I've not had a moment's problem and Think Victron is the gold standard for RVs and sailboats.
Nice job! I agree with what you said about Victron. Once you go blue you don't go back. You just keep adding more :)
Finally a straight forward explanation of how to set up whole house inverter. Now I am ready to do this. Thanks
You got this. Good luck.
Take a picture first. Very helpful tip for the DIY crew.
Hello from the high desert of New Mexico USA 🇺🇸. Great job Brian on the installation. That's the inverter that I want to get for my 1967 GM TDH-4519 city transit bus but I just don't have the money for it and my old AGM batteries took a dump on me so I really need to get batteries first because I live in my bus full-time and don't have any power when the sun goes down. Keep up the good work and stay safe and God bless you and your family and America 🇺🇸
Yikes. Hope you get your battery situation taken care of. We're in AZ and its still pretty cold at night. Stay warm.
Such a well made and easy to understand video, thanks Brian for the awesome content!
I've been looking through a bunch of resources to try to understand how this device works but no one seems to be able to explain it in non-electrical-engineer terms. Thanks again :)
Just started this journey for my 5th wheel (ie meaning just started researching on how to do all of this DIY) your explanations have been great. Really appreciate this content. Thank you for sharing.
Great explanation and what a great setup. Looking forward to seeing the final system.
Thanks Jared. It's a great inverter as you know :) and easy to setup. Your videos about it were very helpful as well. I'm working on getting the rest of the videos edited and published. System is working great.
Excellent job. Worked electronics most of my 80+ years and you did a great job of simplifying things.
Thanks! That means a lot coming from a pro :)
I just installed the same inverter. Took my first trip last week with it. So far I love it! Be sure to install the temperature sensor and turn on the function to stop charging during freezing temps. To do that, you have to turn on lithium battery mode. Can't wait to see your final setup.
I did program the low temp cutoff. It's using the temp sensor in the Smart Shunt which is located right next to the batteries. I also have a high-temp switch on a fan behind the inverter to pull hot air out when it gets warm in there. Thanks for the suggestions.
I too installed this inverter and 712 and color control. My BattleBorn batteries are inside the heated fifth wheel. So I didn’t enable this setting. The likelihood of them being that cold is very rare especially if you live in San Diego. Also battle Born batteries BMS will protect them from cold temperature charging. The 712 will report the battery temperature via the color control or phone app. So this setting doesn’t always have to be set. Depends upon your installation and camping style. I guess it couldn’t hurt.
One of the best install videos I’ve seen. I also liked how you pre-wired the battery input and output before installing the inverter. Can’t wait for the next video. We have a Winnebago Vista 30T and would like to do a very similar set up.
Awesome, thank you! Yes. It's much easier to set it up ahead of time if possible...especially this time of year.
Brian, as always, you can take the technical aspect of your RV upgrades to a lay-mans understanding. Thank you for all of your videos, I look forward to seeing your next project. Also, thank you for the Solar downloads that you have provided on your web site. I installed a 400 watt solar system on my RV two years ago, and it works OK, but, I do want to upgrade to lithium batteries and more solar. Now I can compare that to your solar diagrams.. and feel confident in my upgrade. Take care, wish you and your misses the best.
You're very welcome. I really appreciate your feedback. I'm glad the videos have helped you out. Best of luck with your pending upgrades.
That's probably the best explanation I've seen out there! Victron should hire you to do some of their videos (their site is terrible!)
I would love to see a system like this that also acts as a charge controller, I think that might help justify a bit of that cost -- They're pricey little pieces!
Thanks so much. I see arguments both ways. Personally I prefer separate components instead of having the charge controller as part of the inverter. It limits the flexibility of your design.
Great to see your video. I'm heading this way based on a couple of videos from @AllAboutRVs. This is a great solution for our class A to power the entire coach with the single inverter. I'm pairing it with two Vatrer 460 AH LiFePO4 batteries. Thanks again for all the great information!
Glad it was helpful! Good luck with your project. Epoch has a couple good 460Ah LFPs as well with all the bells and whistles (including Victron communication). I'll be reviewing them soon.
@@RVwithTito I have an epoch And it shipped broken, customer service doesn't return calls. Luckily I was able to take it apart myself and found it was just a loose cable. But will go with LiTime or something else next time.
I’ve been watching solar installation videos ever since I retired from 38 years of trucking in 2015….while I’ve learned a lot in that time about solar installs I have to confess YOU just twisted my brain in half with ‘this’ video! Lol! It’s somewhat confusing to me but at the same time I find it very fascinating! Thanks for sharing! Happy New Year! ~Jim~
I totally understand Jim. The AC side of things is a bit more confusing than the solar and DC side of the system. I'll get to the solar setup soon, which will make more sense.
@@RVwithTito 👍👍😊
I am working on installing my Victron MP II 12V 3000VA but it is going into a fixed location, a radio shack for ham radio. I am having to think quite a bit and look forward to getting it going. Later I will put some solar... it is a much smaller capacity than yours... I am doing the 400Ah minimum that the V manual states and can grow it later. I am going to use it with 120 30 in and later when 50 amp service is available put both in.
Nice. Good luck with the upgrades!
Nice work and explanation Brian. Watching your videos has helped me with a lot of my RV projects. I had weight limitations so went with two 100 amp Battle Borns and a Victron 2000 inverter for our 30 amp RV. Works like charm and my wife is happy with her coffee when boondocking. Will go with something like your new set up when we upgrade our 5th wheel in a few years. Thanks for paving the way! Happy New Year!!
Your welcome! Happy New Year to you both. Enjoying my coffee in the desert right now :)
Great description of how the pass-through split-phase inverter works. I have had trouble describing how this works on my RV. In order to run my air conditioners (one at a time) from my battery bank I also had to do a full rewire of the electrical distribution panel. Right now we are dry camping in an area that is still 75-80 degrees at night and we run the air conditioner from our battery bank all night recharging the battery bank from the solar and generator the next day. Sadly our 1800 watts of incorrectly angled solar panels can't keep up with our air conditioner use.
Hope you get it all sorted out. We're still in cooler temps so A/C is not really an issue yet.
Tito, I love your videos. New RV'er here. I also have a Winnebago class a ('14 Vista 31ke) and a? running victron components (12/3000, cerbo gx, smart shunt and a 100/50 MPPT.). I just wanted to say I really appreciate all your videos, and I look forward to seeing the rest of this install. Even though I only have a 30amp set up, I feel this entire video is still very applicable.
Cheers!
Glad you're enjoying them. Yes...similar setup. Since we don't really hook up we're rarely on 50A.
Excited to see this series. It has always been fuzzy to me on how to accomplish this and properly interface with the other electrical systems on the RV. Looking forward to your next video.
Great. Hope this helps clarify things.
Option 4 put a transfer switch and place a jumper wire from L[ - L2 ? Works great
Isn't that same effect as using the 30A male -to- 50A femaie Dog Bone? Why do you need a Transfer switch? Either way, you have the same problem when there is NO AC power input ... The Victron is running on the Battery Bank only, now how do you bridge the Victron L1 & L2 outputs? The Victron has OPENED both L1 & L2 inputs removing your bridge between L1 & L2.
Can I use the multiplus 2 on 30a service and just use one leg? I am going to eventually going to upgrade to 50a but want to buy the Victron now; however, I dont want to spend the money on a multiplus then have to buy the Multiplus 2.
Sure can. I rarely plug in anymore and when I do it's usually only 15A. The Multiplus will split the output across both legs if you have them both wired up. If not then just wire up L1, neutral and the ground. 👍
Thanks Brian. Just started this project myself. Good info.
Good luck with the project. What kind of RV do you have?
@@RVwithTito We picked up a 94 Holiday Rambler Diesel Pusher. Making a playlist of all the fixes and upgrades we are doing. I'm going to reference this video if it is ok since you do a great job explaining it.
@TignerAdventures Great. Nice upgrade. I remember you guys from Casa Grande. Hope you're doing well. There is an entire playlist about that project. Let me know if you have any questions. 👍 The only thing I'd do differrntly now is to install one of the new Quattro II units instead of multiplus. Then you can ditch the atomatic transfer switch.
@@RVwithTito The wire you tapped into already had gone through the transfer switch. So it would have been more work running wires to eliminate it. So since you have a ATS would you still prefer the Quattro? Does it manage the connections better?
@@TignerAdventures You're right. It's definitely not essential, just another option. To do it, I would have to run an extra cable from the ATS location. It would just eliminate the ATS. I had to replace my ATS a while back anyway. There would be some additional controls you'd have but I haven't dug into it in great detail yet.
Very good explanation for connecting into the 50 amp rv system. Elegant way to handle everything.
Thanks! Glad it made sense.
This is exactly the device I want for exactly the same reasons. Thank you so much for the clear explanation of what it's doing and how. Now to figure out the solar part.
Glad to help. Best of luck with your projects 👍
@rossbagley9015 - You have a 50 Amp 240 Volt RV and you want to run it with a 2,400 Watt Inverter? Are you serious?
Just about to install the same inverter in my Newmar, Dutch Star. What an upgrade, the hybrid function and ability to pass thru is awesome. Thanks for your help awesome DIY videos!!
You're welcome. Good luck with your install.
Enjoy your channel immensely. Helped me with several projects. BUT I couldn’t find a video about insulating the underbelly of a Class C. We’ve done some winter camping in or minnie Winnie 25b. I have been considering installing foam board underneath it to help conserve heat and cool. For example the rear cargo holds are just plastic tubs exposed directly to elements and there are large areas that are bare subfloor exposed. All waterlines run inside so it would seem to be just a process of jenga with foam boards to create an additional barrier. I didn’t know if you have enclosed or insulated anything. I know you’ve done cold weather camping so I figured I’d ask?
Sorry no video on that topic. My subfloor has at least a couple of inches of insulation. There's no insulation below the compartments though.
You need to make is very clear that not all MultiPlus-II Inverters, actually work like your Inverter. You have a *special* MultiPlus-II, called the MultiPlus-II *2x120* . That is the only model of MultiPlus-II Inverter that supports the automatic switch-over between 50 Amp Split-Phase and 30 amp Single-phase.
So this inverter detects if you ether plug into a 30 amp or a 50 amp hook up?
It detects split phase or single phase input.
I like how you explain things. Excellent video. I just ordered one and now I am confident I made the right choice.
Excellent. It's been a great inverter so far.
Hey. Also the quirkie thing you may discover with the Cerberus is that you cannot trigger a relay with the temp sensor. Example. I have a fan that kicks on at 90. Had to do it with separate unit. This is a programming issue that victron has not done. Thanks again
Thanks Bill. I got a cheap Chinese switch to do the trick. Works like a champ.
@@RVwithTito yep. Same here. Maybe victron will change the programming. Many applications for this.
Love your approach. Would a multiplus eliminate the need for my rvs transferr switch and the converter boxes!? Would be nice to wite everything into the multi box. Fyi, i still have a generator in the rv, besides shore power inputs for ac.
You still need a transfer switch to switch between generator/shore power. The converter/charger is no longer needed.
@gobfranklin6759 - NOTE: This only for the MultiPlus-II *2x120* Model only. And it can be very noisy and it hums.
Even if my class A RV runs on 30a, your approach and logic is very sound. I may have a few concerns of additional weight that will have to distributed evenly with the batteriea on both sides of the RV and how it influences your tire pressure levels but aside from that, it's very good.
Thanks for the feedback. I believe I'm balanced out pretty well. Plus I did remove two large lead acid batteries on that side.
Just ordered ours.
Let the install begin
Nice. Hope it goes smoothly for you.
Great Video Brian looking forward to seeing your completed system.
Thanks 👍 Stay tuned.
I am in the process of installing a Victron MP II and until now, it has been somewhat intimidating. You explained things in a way even I could understand. 😁 Thank you. I look forward to viewing your other videos.
That's great to hear. I'm glad you were able to get it done. Good job!
Wow, I had no idea that this install would be that easy. Very informative video. Thank you!
You're welcome. The key is getting familiar with your current system first.
Nice work, and nicely planned. I read the article about in RV Today. I can see why you like tinkering around your RV and making it more efficient and RV’ng off the grid.
Thanks! Yes. There's always something that could use some improvement. It's a great feeling when you finally get to use it and benefit from your hard work too :)
Thanks Brian, one question, did you disable the converter charge wire to the batteries? Or doe both the inverter and converter charge the batteries? Thanks for the great instruction
The Multiplus charges the batteries. The Converter/Charger was no longer needed so I removed it.
@@RVwithTito Thanks for the reply.
Good information Sir . I just purchased the exact components that you just installed but I do not understand why you ran your Shore and generator into the existing transfer switch because that inverter already has it's own built in transfer switch .
Please explain and thank you.
The two transfer switches serve different purposes. The RV's Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS) switches between generator and shore power coming into the RV. The Inverter's transfer switch handles the switching between incoming AC power (from the ATS) and inverter power. That incoming power could be from shore power or from the generator (hence the other transfer switch).
My question is normally you would have two AC panels one being powered by inverter either in pass through or when inverter is turned on. It looks like the open hole above the panel you wired into may have been that panel. How are you powering all those circuits that the old inverter powered.
These large hybrid inverters are designed to be full house inverters managing and switching between shore, generator and battery power sources. It's what we prefer since we RV solely off-grid and don't plug in. Some might consider this type of configuration a bad thing...a single point of failure. Do you lose power to the entire RV if your inverter fails? Actually, yes. That's something to consider. It's why we chose to spend more money on a high quality unit like this Victron Multiplus II. It's well tested and very robust. Not to say that this too won't fail. It just hasn't. We've been running it 24/7 for the last year without a hick-up. So far so good. I used to carry a spare pure sine inverter...just in case. But I no longer do.
What you are describing is how it used to be when inverters were smaller and didn't have hybrid functionality. Of course you could still setup your system that way with dedicated inverter circuits.
The 200W inverter I ripped out of the 03 Winnebago only powered the TV and an AC plug in the cabinet. I rewired that plug to tie into the main AC service. Hope that helps.
@stevekrud2715 The MutltiPlus-II *2x120* ( in ths video ) is rated at 3,000VA. Which is only 2,400 Watts continuously. It will *not* run everything in a 50 Amp RV. Probably not even 50%.
One thing you missed mentioning - the Multiplus II can 'boost' power - so if you have 30 (or 15!)A, you set that as your input - and if you 'use' more, the inverter will use the batteries, up to a 20A boost, to make things work. Great for moochdocking off a 15A cable at someones house for example :D
Very true. Yes. That's a nice feature of the multiplus.
I’m guessing here, but, the white hose coming down in front of your inverter would seem to be either the drain from your sink(?) to the grey tank or your fresh water fill line. I had one of those crack over time. That location would not be a good place for a leak. I hope you have inspected and or replaced that if its pretty old or potentially have a plan to keep your electrical equipment protected. Good video! Happy new year!
Yes. I'm keeping an eye on that. It's the gravity fill for the water tank an it's in good shape. No leaks currently. Also, nothing is sitting directly on the bottom of the compartment and all cables have drip lines. All that's missing is probably a drain hole.
Just purchased the parts to install a Multi in my rv as well... but final install has to wait until spring. I only have to deal with 30a though. I didn't buy the dongles, with bench testing it seems that I can configure everything through VRM via the Cerbo so decided to save a few bucks.
Everything on mine also goes through the Cerbo, but I still need the PC app to fully program the inverter. It would be nice to program it through Victron Connect.
Here is my 'million dollar' question. I have a Victron Quattro 5KVA (5000 watts) inverter in my coach. I have it wired basically like this. My thought is why even have the transfer switch in the equation. The inviter will switch something like 120 amps between the generator, shore power and batteries. It can shift in a fraction of a section and start and sop the generator.
@christopherrasmussen8718 - Do you have a 50 Amp 240 Volt RV?
@@MrSummitville well it’s a 50 amp coach with parallel lines in the coach. 4 wired + ground vs what a household dryer that is 240 between 3 wires and ground.
REALLY enjoyed the video, Brian! I would LOVE IT if you would do a video on things to consider in buying an older RV - I want to consider doing the same, but I don't have an old friend with an old RV that I can trust!
With that set up is there a way to get 240V so a 240V mini split can be powered ? Thanks
I'm not getting 240v when on solar, just 120v. So it would only be possible when running from the shore power or generator with a bunch of rewiring. For me, I'd go for a 12V mini split instead.
Thanks. I was hoping the Vectron could handle that some way.
The Growatt does this and can be purchased without the need for a split phase to get 240v
Good to know. Thanks.
I’ve been waiting for a detailed video on this. Thanks for sharing!
You bet. Hope it was helpful.
Your drawing was great. Simple to understand and a great basic knowledge of how these things work. Thanks!!
You're welcome. Thanks for the feedback!
Another great episode Tito! You did not mention that if you are just plugged into a 30A socket that the inverter can 'boost' the AC power to 50A to power the entire coach (water heater, dual roof ac, etc) using power from the battery bank which may also be supplied from solar panels. Victron equipment with the Cerbo, Touch 50, BVM712, is just so easy to work with and reasonably priced (compared to some of the Xantrex stuff which seems to be VERY expensive).
Sorry I didn't mention that, but YES it's a great feature of the Multiplus inverters. I've already used that feature.
Yes that's what NOBODY is communicating...this is awesome. Can run 50a service plugged in or not. That's what I need
You do a great job here i thank you . curious i also have a scimarine system in place and want the mutiplus . Question did you keep the scimarine and did it connect with victron well.
No the Simarine PICO is in a different rig. I decided to go all Victron this time and monitor remotely.
Looking good. I like the blue wire cover ... My system is much smaller ... and using a victron solar and dc to dc ... but not hooked up. I'm using a measly 200 amps... which is okay for my mini motorhome.. just trying to decide if and when to use an inverter.
Yeah. I thought he blue tubing would be a nice touch. Good luck with your upgrades.
Happy New Year Brian. Glad to see you back in 2022.
Happy new year! Yeah....been working hard getting ready for the road and had to pause the video releases to get stuff done.
In your initial explanation of the four wires you use the term "sides" Perhaps "legs" would be a more accurate term. Note the Victron panel labels the hots as L1 and L2.
Yes that's correct. Just trying to choose the right language to make it clearer, but I ended up using both terms interchangeably :) Thanks for the comment.
Another great video and install. As usual, a couple of things for you. The 6 gauge wire you use for the AC panel is too small for the 50 AMP load. It appears the wire you pulled out is bigger. I used 4 gauge wire to wire my AC panel. If the transfer switch is original, replace it. I don't like automatic transfer switches anyway but they are a necessary evil. Check all the contacts inside yours, they may have burn marks on them. They can be cleaned up but I'd rather replace them. Better safe than sorry.
Thanks for the suggestions. The original wiring was also #6 so I kept it the same. Good note on the ATS. I also replaced mine when I found some burnt contacts. All good now.
It all depends on the ampacity of the wire used. Romex #6 can absolutely handle 50a. 8awg Ancor marine wire can handle 50a. I suggest you look up the ampacity table of your conductors before you make these kinds of comments
Yes sir question?. By hooking up the new inverter charger that way with new wire are you completely by passing the factory inverter?. Thank you
No more factory inverter or converter.
@@RVwithTito sorry maybe I do not understand. So what hooks to the factory inverter/converter the breaker box?.
@@kirktruman6707 Nothing. The converter has been removed. There was a small inverter mounted up front that would power the TV. I removed that also. The new inverter powers everything AC and charges the batteries. The DC panel is powered by the same circuit. Take a look at my diagram I provided. It may help visualize things.
Hey Bryan I watched your video again this morning. I am impressed with your shop. I'm really interested in how you went ahead and benched test, configured, your inverter before install. I also have the MK3-USB and assumed ---- that with proper isolation of components I could wait until installation of the inverter and then the Cerbo GX /Touch 50 on account of the Lynx system. I was thinking as long as I had a long enough cable and a comfortable spot again I assumed----- Just thinking
You could certainly set it all up during install. It was pretty cold and rainy outside. So hooking it all up and testing it in the shop was better for me. Plus I could workout any issues ahead of time. Good luck!
Nice how they are a full 50 amp now with no need for a sub panel to power off the inverter.
Yes. It's fantastic 👍
Would love to tackle this job, but completely electrically ignorant. Your fit and finish is beautiful, I think that takes some artistic knowledge. I can't draw a stickman! Have all the tools though.
Thanks 👍 Who doesn't love a great stick man though. Have you ever animated your stick man on the inside edge of the pages of a book? It's kind of fun.
@@RVwithTito No sir, afraid not.
Thanks for explaining, starting to make more sense to me!
Great! I'll probably do an update on this setup soon.
i had one of those inverters. it did work great for 6 months. if looking for something to last. switch brands
I know this is an older thread, but did you disable the charge line from the converter so it’s not charging the batteries from the converter?
Yes. I removed the converter/charger completely.
Nice install. I like the color coded wraps for the wiring. Will make things easier.
Nice job Bryan, I am installing the same exact thing! I just need to get two more batteries, at least the price came down… in my opinion this is one of the best systems on the market.
Agreed. Eliminates a lot of work arounds.
What batteries are you using?
I contacted Renogy recently and was told all lithium phosphate batteries should be purchased within 6 months of each other, so they age at the same rate, and you're not adding a new battery to used batteries.
Are you aware of this? I have two Renogy 170 ah, and wanted to add another, but they are super expensive, and actually went up by over $100 in the last few months $1,600 - 1,700.
@@animallovefest143 I have 3 Battleborn GC3 batteries. Checkout my previous video to see how I hooked them up. I don't think that's a hard rule, especially with LiFePO4 batteries that have a very long lifespan. But if it's what they say, then that's it. It's certainly an important guideline with lead acid batteries.
Your videos are so interesting. I've watched tons of them as we upgrade our class A. Wondering how much room you had beneath your Victron Multiplus II after mounting it to the wall.
Only about 3/4" just enough to get it off the compartment floor.
I have a question; I installed the inverter as well, but should I also ground the inverter to my van. It is a bit unclear whatever video I am watching. thanks for your help.
Many thanks for your video. I just purchased one to replace our MultiPlus and SPS unit. I have a quick question for you. Did you use ferrels on the AC input and output connections. If so can you recommend the size and suitable crimping tool. Thanks again.
I did not use ferules on the AC connections...just the solar connections.
Thanks for the video. I actually bought it from AM Solar.
@@LouCetrangelo Did you purchase the specific Multi-Plus-II *2x120* model shown in the video? How is the noise level and hum when under full load? Do you have a 50 Amp 240 RV? If yes, then how many appliances can you run on battery-only and for how long? It is rated at only 2,400 watts!!!
Awesome Video!!! 👍👍 I've been holding off on a install in my Travel Trailer because I knew it was going to get to small for full time fast, I just traded it for a larger 5th wheel camper 👍 , the only thing I need to figure out is what to do with the 12v converter? Since it's needed to power everything 12v in the camper, the issue is it will also want to charge the batteries and it's not safe for the Lithium batteries. I'm not sure if I can just remove the circuit that's supposed to charge the coach batteries or I will need to replace it with a converter that's Lithium compatible? This technology is so far ahead of what the RV manufacturers are doing.
If you install the Multiplus II, then you can remove converter/charger. The MP II takes care of that function.
Very nice Brian can’t wait to see it finished ✅
Thanks. Stay tuned.
Brian, I enjoy watching your videos. I have Battleborn house batteries, under the step and 4 more, with the Multiplus II to install. I did notice that you installed yours kind of tight to the top and looks like restricting your air flow. They do generate heat when loaded. Trying to find an area for these is a challenge for most of us.
Yes it's tight. I also added a vent fan behind the inverter that's controlled by a temperature switch. Works great 👍
Great job of explaining how it works!👍
Glad it was helpful!
Ok , offgrid cabin . Solar 30amp
30amp sinle pole breaker hooked to side B
Genorator 40amp 240v .
Wired int a home breaker box , Genorator hooked to main breaker suppling power to A n B sides .
So this enverter would allow me to take battery power and Genorator power IN , and send double phase power to main breaker . Supply power to A n B . And the enverter would do the automatically switch .
Fallow , then I would be able to balance the load , and could use 240 for my well pump .?
Perfect timing! Have a 2005 Bounder I am going to install same converter etc myself!
Good luck with your project!
Am I mistaken? But I was told by more than one source that to meet NEC, you need a disconnect (or breaker) between your xfer switch and your inverter. The victron schematics also showed a DC cutoff switch. Why did you choose to leave these out?
I do have a DC cutoff switch. No breaker from the xfer switch though. You're correct about that. Just didn't feel I needed one, but it's a good idea if you wanted to add one for your setup.
I found your other video on the buss bars. Good to go now. Tnx
Glad it helped. More to come.
Unbelievable timing, Thank You!! I noticed our 4 golf cart battery cases bulging a couple weeks ago. We just got this inverter, a Cerbo GX, and 4 SOK 206AH lithium batteries to replace those batteries and our Magnum ME2012 inverter/charger. I'm hoping the install is "plug and play". I see that you use a bus bar for your batteries. I'm staying with 2/0 welding cable. Can you recommend a hydraulic crimper?
You should be setup well with those batteries and the multiplus. Here's the crimper I used: amzn.to/3ziuQtQ It worked pretty well up to 4/0. Good luck with your upgrades!
Hey Brian: I’ve got this exact inverter charger coming to replace a broken magnum in my Renegade Classic. I do have a 50 amp input BUT for right now, I’m just going to use a single phase. Plug and play till I have more time to take full advantage of this inverter. I will only have one input and one output. Do you know, do I use “L1 or L2” for my one input and output? Thanks so much.
L1 on the input should do it. It will output 120v on both output lines.
Perfect. Thanks so much. Appreciate it. Awesome DIY video by the way.
@@djacobson1143 How are you going to run your 50 Amp 240 Volt RV with a 2,400 Watt 120 Volt Inverter?
@@MrSummitville my coach is all 120 volt. The inverter takes 2 separate legs of 120 volt for true 50 amp throughput. No 220/240 volt involved.
So if I have a 50 amp system and use a dog bone to 30amp, will both L1 and L2 still have 120vac just be in phase? Same with generator running, would L1 and L2 be hot? I heard it will see them as in phase and shut down L2, is that true?
Yes. It will be single phase on L1 and L1 coming in, but I believe the inverter detects single phase and only looks at L1. It will then branch it internally to both L1 and L2....I think. In either case, the inverter treats it as a pass-through.
Hi Brian, how did you fair out with the flexible panels and why aren't you using them anymore. I have an older Class A that we don't want to get rid of. It's all-aluminum, exterior, and the entire roof including welded aluminum frame structure. I really don't want to screw anything into it if you know what i mean. I found that coroplast with ethernabond tape a great idea. Was it?
The flexible panels work great on the class C. This is my favorite mounting system for that th-cam.com/video/uJIEXhnF8MU/w-d-xo.html
I chose to go with large traditional panels on the Class A because I found a great deal on some large ones to maximize my solar intake. I could have certainly gone the flex route too.
Was it easier to take all wires from distribution panel, back to MultPlus vs taking output from your TS and connecting that to output of Multiplus. Then, you'd only have to wire from the output of TS to input on Multiplus. I did mine this way, but 3 years ago with a GoPower IC2000. Keep up the GREAT work. Maybe someday we'll bump into each other here in the PNW.
Depends where you mount the inverter. Mine was very close to the distribution panel with the ATS on the other end of the rig. If the inverter were closer to the ATS then your suggestion would be the way to go. Take it easy!
Thanks, I really enjoyed your explanation. I am looking to get one of these to replace my xantrex 2000w inverter. When I bought my rv it was already set up with the inverter and the previous owner split off the circuits he wanted to be inverted. With this multiplus II could I simply run one of the outputs to that panel and then the second one to my regular panel and power everything that way?
Might be easier to just add a new breaker on the main panel to power the sub panel.
Great video. It is well done. I noticed you using copper straps and buss bar mounts. I couldn't find any of these items for my build, so I used cable and lugs, some of which are 4-0 which is so clumsy to work with. Where do you get your copper buss supplies?
Got them on ebay. Links are in the description.
Thanks for the video, great stuff. Question, I have the same inverter with a 30amp shore input. Would you see a need to breaker or fuse that input before the inverter in case the inverter tries to pull 50amp?
Thanks for easy understanding Video.
Why whould you need 2 positive & 2 negative post in the Victron ?
And if i purchase this unit, will i still need a Victron Mppt ?
@danielpepin6752 - Double cables.
When installing solar panels I'm curious about how thick most rv roofs are and how far can you drive a bolt into them before you punch through the finished inside of the roof.
It will vary based on the make and model. You can often see the roof composition in the vents and other openings.
Hello, i enjoy your channel alot. Lots of great info. One question i have, i put in a lithium converter/charger last year in my rv. If I get one of these multi plus 2 units, it will also replace my converter charger right?. Thanks for any info.
Yes. You are correct. No need for a converter/charger anymore.
Great Job so far Brian.. good explanation on the 50 amp service vrs. 30 amp.
Dude great job! Looks very professional. Well explained I understand all of the functions i would need now! My only question is do you have to do anything special when you connect shore power? Or does it auto register that you added input?
It's automatic. Once the inverter detects split phased shore power, it automatically switches to AC pass through mode. The system is very programmable and there are a few related settings that will determine how that is done.
Thanks. Two questions.
1. On a 3K inverter are you concerned about inrush current frying your battery BMS?
2. Have you had any issues with inverter high temperature warnings/shutdown with the Multiplus installed in a relatively confined space?
1. Haven't had any issues, but I'll keep an eye on it
2. I installed a cooling fan with programmable temp switch behind the inverter that will vent the compartment when it heats up.
Just found your video. I am installing the very same Multiplus inverter in my 50 amp camper. Noticed you used the very same power cable, which was re-assuring because I thought I made a mistake with that 6/3 with bare copper ground. AM Solar shows a 6/4 insulated ground in their tutorial. Question: What size cable did you use to ground the inverter/charger? Did you go right to chassis or back to the negative bus bar for that ground? If you went back to the bus bar, what size cable did you use from the bus bar to the chasis? Thanks!
I used some #2 AWG cable back to the negative busbar for the ground cable. There's another cable from the busbar directly to chassis ground.
If I may ask, were did you get the wiring diagram for the installation of the Multiplus II?
I designed this system myself...diagram included.
2005 Monaco Knight, 50amp coach -- 4 wires into my surge protecter and into the transfer switch. When I pulled the line in from the transfer switch to the old Magnum ME2012 inverter/charger, it only has 3 wires. Monaco used a jumper on the Line In from line 1 to line 2. The Line Out cable from the inverter to the breaker panel is a 4-wire line. Can I use the same jumper arrangement they used for the Line In on my new Victron MultiPlus-II?