Hi Greg, I have updated the description above to include the vented soffit. I also used a soffit mesh on the inside of the soffit to prevent insects getting in.
Hi mate, I got garden room, cold roof with liquid plastic, Outside I can see through my vented soffit a bit of mold, stripped a bit of plasterboard and insulation and it’s dry inside.don’t really understand how mild can grow outside where is proper ventilation
Hi Kev, I have a slight bit of sweating occurring already in my build! I have a feeling this is because it took ages for my windows and doors to arrive so it was completely left open. I need to firm up my ventilation strategy! Ordered some soffit vents to be installed across all joists and then need to do that back as well. I love the PIR box around the LEDs, so many people just drill straight through causing longterm problems.
Hi Jason, it's probably just general damp, as the build has been so open and the weather has not been good. I have literally just fitted the windows and door after a long 12 week wait from Modern UPVC Windows. Towards the end, I screwed large sheets of OSB to block the windows and door, to keep the damp out. I have just today completed the PIR in the roof, so I am now officially sealed. The PIR boxes, which the LED downlights will go in, will help to create an airtight seal. Vapour barrier is next. What is the size of your build Jason?
@@speedyrazor1 On the right account now... So my build is 6mx6m. I am hoping it is just damp to be honest with you. Areas of mould forming but from what I have read it is nothing to worry about at this stage. I also had the long wait from UPVC windows! Glad they are finally in and the building is secure. I went for a blocked build in the end with cavity insulation, fancied giving it a go. Where did you get your PIR from? Trying to find a good price. Jason
@@tufty5801 For the floor (100mm PIR) I ordered from Selco, not cheap but good quality. For the walls (90mm PIR) and the roof (100mm PIR), I ordered from Selhurst Timber, which was cheaper, but the quality was not great.
@@speedyrazor1 Okay Kev, thanks for the tips and advice! I think I am going to trial trickle vents for the rear of the build as there is no overhang for soffit ventilation. Reading into how much space is required for entrance and exit that should be more than fine. Looking around at my neighbours, none of them have ventilation in their cold roofs. That probably explains why the roof looks like it is sagging. I need to do a little walk round vid of my build at some point.
@@tufty5801As long as you have venting at each end, so air will flow through. I also have a small flat roof extension, and I can see sweating from the inside ceiling, I'm absolutely sure there is only venting at one end, not good, once you learn about this stuff, you can see what a bad job was done in the past:(. A walk around video would be great, please upload, would be great to see.
Hi Patrick, yes, can't wait for spring... Cladding round the back and sides was from Cladco, www.cladco.co.uk/sheets/32-1000-box-profile-0-5-thick-pvc-plastisol-coated-roof-sheet , take a look at the battening video, th-cam.com/video/dGmkhbP1z-c/w-d-xo.html
Hi Kev, loving your videos. These are great. I was hoping you could help/ guide me. I have a 6.5x3 metre brick/cavity with 50mm pir/ block build with an epdm flat roof sitting on 22mm osb, then 6inch of joist. I'm having the electric first fix for spot lights and roof insulated in the next couple of days and was wondering if I would have to do this for the spot lights? I'm using 100mm PIR, gapotaped inland edges and foamed, leaving a 50mm gap for venting, soffits have vents and air flows freely, was going to leave a gap of 10cm each side of the spot light free of insulation, use fire and waterproof spots, no vapour barrier and 12.5mm plasterboard. Do you think I should be fine? Or best to create the PIR boxes?
Hi Kev, liked your entire videos, good work and well done , just a quick question, for the downlight how was the box made, did you make it or its ready available in the market. If you have made it how you have done it and what size pir have you used?. Thanks
I made the PIR boxes with 40mm pir (I think it was 40mm anyway), I used expanding foam spray to stick them together, then silver foil tape to cover all the edges, so it's completely sealed. You can see a partially finished one at about 04:00 in.
Are you going to add a vapour barrier on the roof as well? I’m also doing an Ali dykmock build, so been researching the cold roof a bit more. Just had to add ventilation to my roof noggins, added insect mesh, and from what I’ve seen on other videos there should be a roof vapour barrier to prevent mosture rising... thoughts?
Hi Matthew, funny you should ask about the vapour barrier, as I have started installing mine today. Indeed we do need a vapour barrier on the ceiling, between the PIR insulation and the plaster board, same idea as the walls. I can tell you know, having done this, installing the vapour barrier on the walls is nice and easy, but the cieling is hard work, getting it on without creasing, one tip is.... use a good staple gun, mine kept jamming up, making the job 10 times harder. Good luck.
@@speedyrazor1 Great job, builders under time pressure wouldn't take as much care. I'm going to avoid cutting the pir boards and install a false ceiling under the rafters for the downlighters. I found this guide useful: www.labc.co.uk/sites/default/files/labcpd0914_techg_dlight_dwellings.pdf
@Stephen Strange unfortunately, here in the UK, under permitted development rules, we have to keep the overall height of the building below 2.5m, so if I went for a warm roof, my inside ceiling height would be too low, thus the cold roof. If this wasn't the case, I would have definitely gone for a warm roof, as I think a warm roof is easier and more effective.
Looks great, what your outside corner needs is an IBC for the rain water.
Great video again, I’m learning so much before I start mine 👍
Thanks Again Kev. These vids are super usefull. Your vented soffits mind sharing the model number brand etc?
Hi Greg, I have updated the description above to include the vented soffit. I also used a soffit mesh on the inside of the soffit to prevent insects getting in.
Hi mate, I got garden room, cold roof with liquid plastic, Outside I can see through my vented soffit a bit of mold, stripped a bit of plasterboard and insulation and it’s dry inside.don’t really understand how mild can grow outside where is proper ventilation
Hi Kev, I have a slight bit of sweating occurring already in my build! I have a feeling this is because it took ages for my windows and doors to arrive so it was completely left open. I need to firm up my ventilation strategy! Ordered some soffit vents to be installed across all joists and then need to do that back as well. I love the PIR box around the LEDs, so many people just drill straight through causing longterm problems.
Hi Jason, it's probably just general damp, as the build has been so open and the weather has not been good. I have literally just fitted the windows and door after a long 12 week wait from Modern UPVC Windows. Towards the end, I screwed large sheets of OSB to block the windows and door, to keep the damp out. I have just today completed the PIR in the roof, so I am now officially sealed. The PIR boxes, which the LED downlights will go in, will help to create an airtight seal. Vapour barrier is next. What is the size of your build Jason?
@@speedyrazor1 On the right account now... So my build is 6mx6m. I am hoping it is just damp to be honest with you. Areas of mould forming but from what I have read it is nothing to worry about at this stage. I also had the long wait from UPVC windows! Glad they are finally in and the building is secure. I went for a blocked build in the end with cavity insulation, fancied giving it a go. Where did you get your PIR from? Trying to find a good price. Jason
@@tufty5801 For the floor (100mm PIR) I ordered from Selco, not cheap but good quality. For the walls (90mm PIR) and the roof (100mm PIR), I ordered from Selhurst Timber, which was cheaper, but the quality was not great.
@@speedyrazor1 Okay Kev, thanks for the tips and advice! I think I am going to trial trickle vents for the rear of the build as there is no overhang for soffit ventilation. Reading into how much space is required for entrance and exit that should be more than fine. Looking around at my neighbours, none of them have ventilation in their cold roofs. That probably explains why the roof looks like it is sagging. I need to do a little walk round vid of my build at some point.
@@tufty5801As long as you have venting at each end, so air will flow through. I also have a small flat roof extension, and I can see sweating from the inside ceiling, I'm absolutely sure there is only venting at one end, not good, once you learn about this stuff, you can see what a bad job was done in the past:(.
A walk around video would be great, please upload, would be great to see.
Thanks Kev. Looks like a mud bath out there!
Can I ask what make/model cladding you're using on the unseen sides/back there?
Hi Patrick, yes, can't wait for spring... Cladding round the back and sides was from Cladco, www.cladco.co.uk/sheets/32-1000-box-profile-0-5-thick-pvc-plastisol-coated-roof-sheet , take a look at the battening video, th-cam.com/video/dGmkhbP1z-c/w-d-xo.html
Hi Kev, loving your videos. These are great. I was hoping you could help/ guide me. I have a 6.5x3 metre brick/cavity with 50mm pir/ block build with an epdm flat roof sitting on 22mm osb, then 6inch of joist. I'm having the electric first fix for spot lights and roof insulated in the next couple of days and was wondering if I would have to do this for the spot lights? I'm using 100mm PIR, gapotaped inland edges and foamed, leaving a 50mm gap for venting, soffits have vents and air flows freely, was going to leave a gap of 10cm each side of the spot light free of insulation, use fire and waterproof spots, no vapour barrier and 12.5mm plasterboard. Do you think I should be fine? Or best to create the PIR boxes?
Thanks for your help.
Hi Kev, liked your entire videos, good work and well done , just a quick question, for the downlight how was the box made, did you make it or its ready available in the market. If you have made it how you have done it and what size pir have you used?. Thanks
I made the PIR boxes with 40mm pir (I think it was 40mm anyway), I used expanding foam spray to stick them together, then silver foil tape to cover all the edges, so it's completely sealed. You can see a partially finished one at about 04:00 in.
Are you going to add a vapour barrier on the roof as well? I’m also doing an Ali dykmock build, so been researching the cold roof a bit more. Just had to add ventilation to my roof noggins, added insect mesh, and from what I’ve seen on other videos there should be a roof vapour barrier to prevent mosture rising... thoughts?
Hi Matthew, funny you should ask about the vapour barrier, as I have started installing mine today. Indeed we do need a vapour barrier on the ceiling, between the PIR insulation and the plaster board, same idea as the walls. I can tell you know, having done this, installing the vapour barrier on the walls is nice and easy, but the cieling is hard work, getting it on without creasing, one tip is.... use a good staple gun, mine kept jamming up, making the job 10 times harder. Good luck.
@@speedyrazor1 HAHA, yea, my next job, and some cladding to do!
Once you did the vapour barrier how did you cut out the lights???
Ahhhh, that's how you do downlighting in cold roofs, alas!
Hi Bobby, this is my take on it, certainly not the definitive solution, I'm hoping it should work out :)
@@speedyrazor1 Great job, builders under time pressure wouldn't take as much care. I'm going to avoid cutting the pir boards and install a false ceiling under the rafters for the downlighters. I found this guide useful: www.labc.co.uk/sites/default/files/labcpd0914_techg_dlight_dwellings.pdf
@@gametakeaway doing a false celining is cetrtainly a much easier approach, but the downside is you'll lose ceiling height.
@Stephen Strange unfortunately, here in the UK, under permitted development rules, we have to keep the overall height of the building below 2.5m, so if I went for a warm roof, my inside ceiling height would be too low, thus the cold roof. If this wasn't the case, I would have definitely gone for a warm roof, as I think a warm roof is easier and more effective.
@Stephen Strange Always do a warm dec when not considering permitted development*