Already bought your guide, but there's something that hasn't been explained in this video or the guide. In this video it says you will need a vapor control layer if you're using vapor permeable insulation outboard - but what if you're using polyiso with taped and staggered seams and even using an osb roof deck that is installed with sealant? Can you omit the vapor control layer in this case?
Do you cover insulation of and moisture control of shipping container homes? Looking to purchase either a ~ Marine shipping container (Corten steel), or a ~ preinsulated Freezer Shipping Container "Marine" (Corten steel) given that both of these have flat roofs so to speak, AND a continuous IMPERMEABLE METAL surface: (mostly impermeable -- imperfections, holes for windows, doors, plumbing, electrical, etc that might not be perfectly sealed, screw or bolts that also may allow moisture movement despite our best efforts) ....a tremendous amount of spray foam insulation could be applied to the exterior and whatever layers on top of and cladding/siding to protect that... But then what about the floor, AND the walls snd ceiling inside the container? Initially we "want/wanted" to install a flat on both sides: milled log floor,wall,and ceiling of about 6 to 12 inches (depending on total R-value achieved with all other layers = our goal was a total R-value of around 50 to 80 as we intend to be moving it (we are CDL holders so we would keep then on Semitrailers, likely a double drop or other low trailer as we wish to have a HC / High Container 9'6" or higher interior if we find a custom/larger container [oversized load are no problem for us] as the taller and wider is just a nicer internal liveable experience, AND allows for the thicker milled log wall,floor,and ceiling without much perceived loss of space === thermal mass is part of the desire for using milled logs on interior) ... because this would be a FULL TIME RESIDENCE as opposed to a "week/weekend camper or RV like usage...the quality of life within is VERY important, such as: near ZERO chance of moisture trap/condensation aka MOLD, and near ZERO chance of "off gassing" of spray foam/not using spray foam inside ...or offgassing of very much of anything else...we were concerned about termites,ants, mealworms, etc as they are known to EAT foam board, and the only Foam Board that claimed to be "resistant" and explained HOW this was achieved said: it was via a aromatic/fragrant deterrent!! ...1. who knows what effect that has on anyone that might be or become sensitive 2. Who knows what long term health effects are from exposure 3. Who knows how long it would last ...given so many "unknowns", it also brings to mind whether one should even bother with such concerns? i.e. simply use rigid foam board where it is appropriate and "if" ants, termites, mealworms take up residence eating it, tear it all apart and redo ??? Or are there other methods to safely and EFFECTIVELY preventing and Eliminating such concerns? Obviously using milled log of any thickness for interior would be a BIG problem with any ants, termites, mealworms...not to mention the off gassing of their fecal waste which is nothing to dismiss as it is quite an irritant to health/immune/allergy/sensitivities/respiratory, etc... I am familiar with Boron/Boric acid, but it is not perfect and is claimed to have been "ineffective" in situations, and i am unfamiliar with what potential problems it could create with various materials... I am also very much interested in "Shou sugi ban" (burnt wood) and using it on the milled log interior ...this i do not have any practical experience with, but like the various looks of different applications/degrees of... ... thanks in advance for any direction you can point me in or where to get started with your assistance?
*For more comprehensive information, get my guide to flat roof design in cold climates, available here:* asiri-designs.com/shop
Is the flat roof assembly in cold climates book for an unvented roof?
Already bought your guide, but there's something that hasn't been explained in this video or the guide. In this video it says you will need a vapor control layer if you're using vapor permeable insulation outboard - but what if you're using polyiso with taped and staggered seams and even using an osb roof deck that is installed with sealant? Can you omit the vapor control layer in this case?
Do you cover insulation of and moisture control of shipping container homes?
Looking to purchase either a
~ Marine shipping container (Corten steel), or a
~ preinsulated Freezer Shipping Container "Marine" (Corten steel)
given that both of these have flat roofs so to speak, AND a continuous IMPERMEABLE METAL surface: (mostly impermeable -- imperfections, holes for windows, doors, plumbing, electrical, etc that might not be perfectly sealed, screw or bolts that also may allow moisture movement despite our best efforts) ....a tremendous amount of spray foam insulation could be applied to the exterior and whatever layers on top of and cladding/siding to protect that...
But then what about the floor, AND the walls snd ceiling inside the container?
Initially we "want/wanted" to install a flat on both sides: milled log floor,wall,and ceiling of about 6 to 12 inches (depending on total R-value achieved with all other layers = our goal was a total R-value of around 50 to 80 as we intend to be moving it (we are CDL holders so we would keep then on Semitrailers, likely a double drop or other low trailer as we wish to have a HC / High Container 9'6" or higher interior if we find a custom/larger container [oversized load are no problem for us] as the taller and wider is just a nicer internal liveable experience, AND allows for the thicker milled log wall,floor,and ceiling without much perceived loss of space === thermal mass is part of the desire for using milled logs on interior)
... because this would be a FULL TIME RESIDENCE as opposed to a "week/weekend camper or RV like usage...the quality of life within is VERY important, such as: near ZERO chance of moisture trap/condensation aka MOLD, and near ZERO chance of "off gassing" of spray foam/not using spray foam inside ...or offgassing of very much of anything else...we were concerned about termites,ants, mealworms, etc as they are known to EAT foam board, and the only Foam Board that claimed to be "resistant" and explained HOW this was achieved said: it was via a aromatic/fragrant deterrent!! ...1. who knows what effect that has on anyone that might be or become sensitive
2. Who knows what long term health effects are from exposure
3. Who knows how long it would last
...given so many "unknowns", it also brings to mind whether one should even bother with such concerns? i.e. simply use rigid foam board where it is appropriate and "if" ants, termites, mealworms take up residence eating it, tear it all apart and redo ???
Or are there other methods to safely and EFFECTIVELY preventing and Eliminating such concerns?
Obviously using milled log of any thickness for interior would be a BIG problem with any ants, termites, mealworms...not to mention the off gassing of their fecal waste which is nothing to dismiss as it is quite an irritant to health/immune/allergy/sensitivities/respiratory, etc...
I am familiar with Boron/Boric acid, but it is not perfect and is claimed to have been "ineffective" in situations, and i am unfamiliar with what potential problems it could create with various materials...
I am also very much interested in "Shou sugi ban" (burnt wood) and using it on the milled log interior ...this i do not have any practical experience with, but like the various looks of different applications/degrees of...
... thanks in advance for any direction you can point me in or where to get started with your assistance?