220, 221, Whatever it Takes! | Wiring a Buck Transformer for a Magnetic Sheet Metal Brake
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- Today we have a new electromagnetic sheet metal brake in the shop that requires a buck/boost transformer to adjust the supply voltage. We'll look at the theory behind buck/boost transformers, wire one up, and get it running.
00:26 Intro
03:36 Transformer theory
12:05 Selecting a buck/boost transformer (VA calculations)
18:20 Wiring with Wago lever nuts
23:18 Testing the bender
26:14 Measuring current in the transformer coils
Buck/Boost Transformer: bit.ly/3lGKngN
Buck/Boost Calculator: www.buckboostca...
Tools used in this video:
*This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated
Engineers Computation Pad (Amazon*): amzn.to/3EKFZ9o
Knipex Automatic Wire Stripper (Amazon*): amzn.to/3aFM8oF
Wago 10AWG 3-conductor lever nuts (Amazon*): amzn.to/2ZgKzvJ
Wago 10AWG 2-conductor lever nuts (Amazon*): amzn.to/3AqaZJe
Wago 12AWG lever nut assortment (Amazon*): amzn.to/3hPMwFE
Ox-Gard Anti-oxidant compound (Amazon*): amzn.to/3CzO9Q5
Knipex Pliers Wrench 3-Piece Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/2ruzS8m
Fluke 375 FC True-RMS Clamp Meter (Amazon*): amzn.to/3C6aeoW
Raw Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
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Errata: A couple of people have pointed out that the wires are likely not aluminum, and they appear to be right. While the transformer nameplate says "Wire: Al" on it, I went back and scraped some of the wires, and they look like copper under a silver surface coating. Perhaps the marking on the transformer refers only to the windings. It's fully encapsulated in resin, so I can't verify.
Tin coated like marine grade wire perhaps.
I could see them using aluminum for the windings. But it's very rare for wire to be aluminum as making a reliable connection requires fancy tools. Much easier to weld a copper or tinned copper wire to the end of the aluminum and make a connection to the pigtail. (this is all due to surface oxide black magic)
Tinned copper. Definitely!
@@martylawson1638it is Copper coils
@@thomasjeffersoncry Copper coils
For the cost of that brake, I'm blown away that the manufacturers couldn't be bothered to ensure that it could be connected up to an ordinary mains supply. No-one has a regulated supply as standard.
In Australia it's 220v,Original Patent, 1976, Inventor: Alan Bottomley from Australia
yeah, its really interesting afaik baileigh is a UK company so would have expected it to handle 230 at least is 220v common in industrial?
@@scootscoot2k ELECTRICAL: 1 PHASE, 220/240 VAC DUTY CYCLE: 30%
@@scootscoot2k UK power was originally 240V +-5%, and when they harmonized with the EU they went to 230V -5% +10% (do the math, it may surprise you…). It’s really weird they’d be specced for 220 +-5%. That’s the old mainland EU standard, which harmonized to 230V -10%, +5%.
It does connect to an ordinary mains supply…in China.
Yeah, using a metal break on the moon, easy peasy, the commute however is killing.
Nice safety footwear. :^D
I also often wear flip-flops when I "shouldn't".
Most of my body is space aware of the surroundings. However, my toes are drawn magically to anything that will harm them if they aren't properly covered. Kudos to those of you who have intelligent feet.
Those are colloquially known in Australia as ‘Ozzie Safety Boots’ 🤣🤣🤣
Standard foot ware for all ‘Bush Mechanics’
Regards,
Robert
PS Your vids are REALLY informative 👍
would love to see you do some tutorials in fusion 360 with their sheet metal stuff and see it out to production from plasma cutting and bending on the brake!
Yes, that is a great feature I played with a couple years ago (I built my own plasma table), but I'm not sure if the feature still works since they changed the licensing on fusion 360. My brother uses it for his cnc mill and I usually do very well with computer and tech stuff, but I just suck at fusion. It isn't intuitive at all. I'm thinking about buying a magnetic brake and I already do a little bit of powder coating and have been welding for 20+ years. I'm working on tying it all together to produce products I can sell.
So it requires you to meet specs by 5% but is 75% off itself? I'd like to know what the manufacturer says about that 😄
Yeah. They're a little mystified, because the magnet resistance is right on spec. Amusingly, because of the terrible power factor, the average current is close to 10A. I'll reserve judgment until I have more time to investigate the current limiting circuit board.
@@Clough42 weird, if it's got current limiting built in, over voltage by a bit shouldn't be a big deal.
Kudos for using Wagos. As European I die a bit inside every time I see wire nuts being used.
Also, kudos for selecting the proper Wago clamp type and using the Al contact paste. You did your research.
Wagos don't provide as much contact between the wires as a properly twisted wire nut connection. I've had to replace Wagos in strings of fluorescent lights. In my opinion, Wagos are for lazy electricians.
Wire nuts work quite well IF you have the correct size AND know how to use them. But knowing how to use them IS the problem. So many people think you can shove anything in there and they work as long as they're tight and that is not the case. Dissimilar types of wire like stranded and solid can be problematic, as can different sizes of wire. Also if one is stranded and tinned and the other is solid. The wire should be the same length and should NOT be twisted together before putting the wire nut on. Take a few things apart that have been worked on by people who don't know or care and you'll find the connection is often not that great. Typically the stranded wire gets run down to the bottom of the solid and has a lot less contact than expected. I'm sure the manufacturers and NEC have specifics on these but I'll admit I haven't seen them.
@@tiredoldmechanic1791 I laughed when he said "nice clean installation" then he had to squirt a bunch of noalox into each of the connectors. That stuff is like moly grease. It's black and gets everywhere.
@@tiredoldmechanic1791 Wagos are for electricians who don't want to be held liable for burned down hose, or electrocuted customer. I've seen so may loose an wonky wire twists with wire nuts, including ground wires(in US), that I'm surprised that they are still allowed and still in use. In many countries you'd probably loose your license for using wire nuts. Wagos are almost impossible to install incorrectly.
@@piranha32 I should have taken pictures of the melted Wagos I replaced.
Wago... Knipex...Wera... I mean, the rest of the world loves all of those (Wera a bit less), but you're risking your American citizenship using Wagos.
Good old german engineering (Wago, Knippex, Wera and so on).
While James names Wago with "W" and not "V" in the beginning, he is safe. :)
I love Wago connectors, mostly because I hate wire nuts, especially if all the wires aren't exactly the same size (and let's be real, when are they ever the same size when you're doing any kind of modification or retrofit?) James just has good taste.
There are a number of jurisdictions in the US that mandate Wagos and say that wire nuts cannot be used.
Metric system, anyone? :D
I have had one of these for almost 10 years in my aircraft shop. It is one of the most versatile sheet metal tools I own. You are only limited what it can do by your imagination and ingenuity. Loved the technical aspect of your video.
That's a cute little transformer. I needed a transformer that could take the power out of my home solar inverter that was galvanically isolated and would generate split phase 120V. The model I got was a 5KVA Emerson. I think the thing weighs upwards of 150 pounds. In the end I switched inverter supplier and never needed the transformer but I do remember almost blacking out trying to manhandle this thing and getting it bolted to the basement wall even with the help of a scissor lift. It's still there on the wall taunting me every time I go to check the inverter status 😀
This dude is getting serious about sheet metal.
He’s serious about everything he does.🔥🔥
You might call it some serious sheet.
I don’t think those are al. wires. If you do a scrape test you will find the cu. inside. It’s just a coating.
Check the video at 10:23 The label says "Wire: Al"
@@Clough42 that’s interesting. I did a google search on a buck boost tx and reading the specs is said cu. conductors. The reason I don’t think they are al. Is the same reason they stopped using al. For house wiring. It’s finicky. If the conductor is even scratched it will break there. I’m not doubting what you say, I just find it highly unlikely they used al. My bad.
@@Clough42 Are you sure that the label doesn't just refer to the transformer winding conductors? For ease of use, it would make much more sense that the connecting leads are tinned copper.
Couple tips for wagos. I’m from the uk and use them all the time. 1. If you’re using solid core wire you don’t actually have to lift the lever to insert the wire, it can just be pushed straight in. 2. For piece of mind I usually put a heat shrink sleeve over them if I’m using them in control cabinets or in your case a transformer.
Also love the safety flip flops :)
Wago connectors are great. More expensive than wire nuts but much more reliable. Cool bender.
Hello James,
Nicely explained process for using the Buck/Boost Transformer... Interesting new machine, happy bending...
Take care.
Paul,,
original Magna Bend best Aussie invention ever..
Clicked just for the Mr. Mom reference.
The many ways you can combine the various fingers on the brake seems analogous to the many ways you can combine the taps on the transformer which drives it. There's some elegance in seeing the same pattern applied in two such different ways within the same total machine.
Make sure you put a digital volt meter somewhere in your shop if you dont have one because the utility can change your voltage at will. They typically allow a very wide spread of allowable supplied voltage to meet their spec. Our shop regularly sees 262 volts because we are in a rural area and the utility company is over-feeding do to antiquated lined 10-15-30 miles out at the end of a line. Our CNC and edge banders will not handle that over-voltage so we have to buck via several transformers (too costly to buck the entire 600a shop feed). But we installed digital volt meters in the event the utility does ever bring the supply voltage down (they are 2 volts below their high limit allowance) we will have to re-wire but transformers as we are bucking every bit we can just to be in spec on the machines.
hope you didn't get the one you linked to its 240 to 24
hey, they only have 275V in the moon ocean i gotta use something and it has worked fine since 1969
That's good. Getting replacement parts delivered is probably quite expensive.
Bought my Baileigh mag brake in 2016 for 2335 from Elite. Placard says 220V. Page 31 of the manual says 240V and has worked fine on 240V since new. Looking at the wire diagram, it says the primary transformer coil is 220V but not sure what the secondary coil does to the voltage. Like your presentation.
Have you ever measured the current draw?
Great job explaning how the auto transformer works.
I have a rolling base on my table saw that has two of the rollers on cams that pop the saw up to roll it around. If you drop the cam, the saw sits on two rollers and two stationary legs. This makes for a very stable base when in use but it makes it easy to move. Something like this would be a good fit for the brake.
Gotta love the safety sandals.
The wire is not aluminum. It is tinned copper. Very common in transformers.
I was thinking the same thing. It's very common in transformers and a lot of other electronics and controllers. I definitely have never encountered 16 gauge aluminum wire in the field.
The plate on the transformer says "Wire: Al". The plate is visible at 10:23. Edit: I opened up one of the connections and scraped the wires, and they do indeed appear to be copper, so the marking must just apply to the coils themselves?
@@Clough42 I think that is referring to the windings, not the cable leads. Those Jefferson x-formers have a copper winding option. The information for the cable should be printed on the jacket of the cable itself.
I think you're all right. I pulled open one of the connections and scraped the wires, and I think they're tinned copper. I learned something new today. I had just assumed what the marking on the label meant.
I think you're right. I opened up some of the connections and scraped the wires, and they look like copper. I guess the marking on the nameplate just refers to the coils themselves.
Oh way cool! I didn't even know about those wago splices. I love that they have test tips on them. I'm assuming that's a digi key thing? Any part numbers by chance? Never mind, I just saw your links. I always forget to look there on my phone.
They are the Standard for wiring in Germany. You should Even be able to get them from Amazon.
My local HomeDepot has a limited selection of Ideal brand, and Menards has the Wago brand.
Menards has Wago, and so does Amazon: got an assorted box of them recently, normally $50, on sale for like 35? Came in a plastic box with dividers as expected. Not expected: the plastic box is stamped "Ideal" and "Made in USA". They didn't even cheap out on their packaging!
I'm wiring a similar buck transformer for my magnetic brake. Did you consider putting a switch on the transformer on the input side to turn it off. I'm thinking to prevent parasitic draw if I leave it plugged in.
Hi, I'm not sure you will have time to answer a couple questions, you have quite the following. I recently bought a 52" magnetic bender, like yours, it requires 220v. My shop is a consistent 237v, too much. Since your machine has the same requirements as mine, I'm looking for a transformer to lower the voltage. I'm having a problem finding exactly what you bought, but I see many other name brands. So is what I should be looking for is; high 120x240v, low 12/24 with a KVA of 0.5 or higher, is this correct? Is there any other specs that I should be looking for? Thanks
This is a great video! As an electrical engineer, you're spot on about everything but the nomenclature. These are typically called step-up/step-down transformers. Buck/boost is an entirely different animal that uses active switching with a MOSFET and is typically exclusive to DC only topologies. The end goal is the same, making a larger voltage from a smaller input voltage or vise versa, but the way they do that is different.
Granted, I've never worked with autotransformers before. Again, nice job keeping the voltage in spec.
The manufacturer called the transformer buck/boost which is a term I'd never heard used in pure transformer topologies. To be honest I thought the magic box would have a bunch of power mosfets in it.😀
@@vincei4252 that's what I was thinking. So I waited to comment until the end of the video thinking some jackass is about to introduce a bunch of smps on the grid.
@@conrad2468 Interesting. I just checked the Emerson transformer catalog and they're also calling them buck/boost, even the galvanically isolated models. I guess there was a memo you and I never saw.
I think you are wrong. There are two types of buck/boost voltage conversion devices. The switching type which you are referring to are typically called "buck/boost converters". The transformer types are not surprisingly called "buck/boost transformers". The main difference between the two is in the additional circuitry to increase the switching frequency in the case of converters which has many benefits, but noise related downsides.
The words "Buck Boost" are printed on the label on the transformer. A buck or boost converter is also a thing, and you're right; it's a different animal.
James. I’ve used mine on Mars at 5400v every day. 9 days a week. 34-7.
Oh, nice. I'll bet that works really well in the lighter gravity.
Bro, you squat in those sandals too ;-) Rogue rack? Looks familiar. FWIW - I'm an EE and that was educational, understood it all but I've never thought much about small step downs like that. It's a bit like a fixed VARIAC...
The Grizzly is also another clone knock off. But there tag list it as 110V I contacted grizzly and they say 220V. Here is there tag from there PDF.
Power Requirement: 110V, 1-Ph, 60Hz, 4.3A
Max. Workpiece Thickness: 16 Ga. (Mild Steel)
Max. Workpiece Width: 48"
Min. Reverse Bend: 1"
Max. Pan Depth: Unlimited
Bending Range: 0˚-180˚
Weight: 386 lbs.
MODEL T30297
48" MAGNETIC PAN & BOX BRAKE
a 500lbs machine on a couple moving dolly's and flip flops... I like it! Living dangerously! :)
This is a machine costing $3k, intended for the US market, and it can't deal with standard US 240VAC?
That's somewhere in between disappointing and infuriating.
BTW, do yourself a solid and get a pair of proper ratcheting crimpers and dies. Those Radio Shack style stamped crimpers make terrible connections. Paladin/Greenlee PA8000 series are good.
Isn't the mains electricity supply in Saudi Arabia based on an unusual mix of nearly European and nearly North american 220v (instead of nominal 230 but really 240, as seen in europe) but at 60hz with a 5% over and something like 15% under, standard?
For what it's worth, I've lots of appliances which say 220v -+5% which work just fine on 240v (plus or minus 10%), but none of those cost as much as that bending brake, so I don't blame you.
I have the non-Baliegh brand version of that I didn't realize there was some power configuration issues with these. I just plugged it, underwater on the moon of course. But still... one of my favorite shop tools!
I didn't use mine on the moon, but I hope Jupiter is close enough to still have permission to post a comment about it. xD
There's no way they're that finicky about 220 vs. 240. I'd bet money the warnings about only using it on 220 are there because of 208 and 277 volt supply voltage. 277 is what you get from a single phase to neutral on a 480v three phase circuit and I'd imagine that comes up with a lot of the more typical commercial customers of those mag brakes.
So we usually use the terms "buck" and "boost" for DC circuits that actually chop up the waveform, or do sort of the reverse into an inductor to boost it.
I don't know if I'd use the terms buck or boost here. Stepping down isn't bucking like in a buck converter. Step up and step down, sure.
The rest seems spot on though!
What you are describing are buck and boost converters. What I showed is a buck/boost transformer. This is distinct from a step-up or step-down transformer, because the transformer is not handling the full power of the load--only the voltage increase or decrease. In fact, the words "Buck Boost" are printed on the label. This is a case where the same words are used to describe two very different technologies that perform similar tasks.
I bought a few weeks back the same type of magnetic brake but from another seller whose brake comes from the same factory. I was surprised when I looked at the manual to see that the manual says 220/240v. I had the seller ask the manufacturing plant if it had to be the 220v like baleigh writes in their manual to make sure a buck boost transformer is really required.
Manufacturing plant told my seller that it was 220/240v compatible and did not require a buck boost transformer. It was also confirmed that the manufacturing plant is the same one that supplies the same units to baleigh. I have the original manufacturer manual for the machine with mine.I wonder why Baleigh who wrote their own nicer manual wrote up the buck boost transformer stuff in their manual.
Hey CLOUGH42, the nearly twice the current of the nameplate is concerning. It's acting like it's wired for 120V, which would double the current for a fixed resistive load when run at double the voltage. Is it possible the manufacture plate has a typo and is suppose to be 120V instead of 220V?
I've been in contact with support. It's definitely supposed to be 220V. The magnet coil resistance is 28 ohms, so 10A makes sense for rectified DC. I'm still trying to figure out exactly what's going on.
@@Clough42 remember it's mostly an inductive load not resistive.
@@theradarguy true. I think the manufacturer has the customer check the resistance as a way to check for damage to the coils.
Love the brake too - bought mine back in 2014. My supply power is also about 245V. You got me wondering if I need to be concerned?? The manual I received with the brake makes no mention to allowable tolerance on 220V input. In fact there’s a troubleshooting section in the back if my manual that suggests the voltage readings should be 240V. So I compared my manual to the one they issue today from Baileigh’s website. Wow. I’m going to call Baileigh this week and see if they changed something, or I need to add the transformer. I’ll update my comments when I know more. Thanks James for this awesome explanation of how buck transformers work.
From what I've gathered, they had a high failure rate, and requiring the transformer has reduced it. I don't know beyond that. Have you by chance ever measured the current draw?
A college friend of mine bought one about 2 years ago. He absolutely loves his. In fact, he talked about that brake everyday for a month. the 275V on the moon since 69 had me rolling on the floor. LOL
For that amount of money, you'd think they would have the electronics, overload etc built in!
They do. I'm still investigating. It's not super clear yet if this is an issue, or "normal". I may make a follow-up video explaining the details, but I need to understand it better myself first.
Now that you've had this brake for awhile, has it been reliable? Knowing what you know now, would you buy it again? Thanks
Oddly I was unsubscribed from your channel through no fault of my own. Suspect youtube decided this for me.
I've been working in embedded devices for a decade and I've never seen such a clear explanation for _why_ autotranformers are better when you don't need the isolation. That makes so much sense.
Bailiegh dont make these ,,, they are like all their other stuff , boxed in from China , it can all be found for half price in different colors all over the web.
I love Wago connectors, I'm a recent convert, but have already decided that I will not use wire nuts again if I can avoid it. (I don't think I knew about the probe access though) Thanks for the really interesting informative video. The auto transformer as you describe it almost looks like an "inductive divider" (like a resistor divider), really neat. The math still bends my brain though.
I would have loved how you followed the diagram that jefferson gives you to get the output.
surprised you didnt meter the actual output and input voltage when the job was done.
This is fantastic, I've been looking at getting one of these. This is just the information I've been looking for!
Love the safety shoes in the shop Haha! :)
Once again the wizard is at work. You make all that sound easy, but I don’t think I got it all down the first time around…lol.👏🏻🔥
Think you could look under the petticoat on that bender and see what magic circuit inside makes it so persnickety about its input voltage? It doesn't look like the sort of thing that'd have anything sensitive in it. I'd be surprised if it were the magnet coils being designed with such little overhead that they couldn't handle 10% overvoltage.
Oh, I've been inside it since day one. Still no solid conclusions. Waiting for parts.
What a great brake that is ! Thank you for the video and education.
What I don't understand is why make a bit of equipment that requires less voltage than standard mains volts or us your supply out if specification.
There are lots of opinions on the Internet about this topic.
Right? Even UK's grid spec is 230+10%,-6%, Europe I think is 230V+-6%.That's a remarkably low overlap. 220 minus 5% is 209V, so you even miss the 208V 3 phase here in the USA. They've built a device that works basically only in China and Africa
It's pretty odd that they make a single-phase AC-powered device and didn't build in the circuitry to reduce the voltage.
Agreed. It's still possible that this unit is just defective. I'll let you know when I find out.
@@Clough42 220v three phase is pretty common, isn't it? Could they have somehow adapted a 3-phase model to single phase?
227v is one phase of 480 which is standard in the US for a commercial/industrial service ( then down to 208/120 by a xformer or 3 in the facility). So 227 is within the spec, and 240 residential is often actually somewhat lower, so the rating makes sense. Plus a buck transformer for the smaller percentage of their customers with residential service is better than a boost transformer for the larger percentage of their customers with 480v service.
Not that I am positive about that, but I've been an electrician for 16+ years so....
@@pamdemonia excellent information
@@pamdemonia You're close, but it is 277 volts between neutral and one 480 leg, not 227 volts.
I remember that line from the movie Mr. Mom back in the 80s.
Extremely useful and very well presented.
There are a lot of interesting things covered here; thanks.
It's all ball bearings these days
Out of interest why is the break so “picky” about the input voltage... why would it not like 240v AC instead of its specified 220v AC. Is the clamp down magnet strip much more than just a electromagnet?
The manufacturer is not super specific. I gather they had lots of failures, and requiring the transformer reduced this significantly. The Internet is full of people with opinions.
Good explanations, I think many needed that... :) Intuitive understanding is worth so much more than many think, especially when trying diagnose something that's not working later. Having a feeling of "this isn't correct" when you measure/test something can save so much time...
But you could mention that the two large coils are actually pushing current "backwards", being force fed magnetic induction from the smaller coils...
The 17.5A output is the sum of 16.0A pushed "through" from mains and 1.5A circulating backwards from the circuit of the large secondary coils. 16+1.5=17.5.
Also, I didn't run a brake like that under water on the moon - but a reasonable advice is to always use a small scrap piece of the same thickness as the piece you're trying to bend on the other side of the clamping slit. Otherwise the top clamp will gradually over time bend into a permanent dome shape which lowers your clamping force in the middle of the table. This is true even for large, industrial scale brakes....
Good points. Yes, the coils are operating "backwards" in the intuitive sense, and I neglected to mention it.
Hey, thanks for the great videos. Please, can you tell me if you have castors/lockable on your magnabend sheet metal brake, and if so, what brand and model?
I'm using some cheap Footmaster clone casters, so I can lower the solid feet to make it rigid if needed.
@@Clough42 thanks! I ordered some low cost clone as well. Different brand. I just got my 1250E magnabend yesterday! My CNC plasma rig is a DIY based on the Lowrider 3 CNC motion control system. It’s working great for me. I’m super pleased.
oh no. An American youtuber used Wago connectors in their video, now they're gonna get endless comments from very opinionated people about how bad they are.
So far, I've gotten mostly compliments about how sophisticated I am for using Wago connectors, Wera screwdrivers, and Knipex pliers and wire strippers.
If you rectify and filter 12 V RMS AC you will not get 12 VDC. You will get about 16Vdc.
Correct. Multiply by the square root of two to get the peak of the ripple.
In a later video where you were using this brake, you have some feet or wheels attached to the bottom, could you provide a link or show what you are using on it...? thanks.
These are the ones I'm using. They're okay--not great: amzn.to/3HyFPlu
Heavy transformer - Sheet metal - Hand tools and Sandals ? Which item doesn't belong on this list ?
That's not even the best part. As long as I use a camera angle that makes them visible, I get a boost to my TH-cam engagement metrics from comments like this one
I smell a nice enclosure for the grizzly coming down the way (a full CNC transformation follow that up may be?)
Wow! I found this video by responding to one of his comments on another youtube video. He said he had a video on setting up his magnetic brake. This video is awesome! I wondered why I saw transformers listed as VA but didn't really understand it. I have done electrical maintenance and mostly single phase work on commercial buildings (lighting, water heaters, AC, etc.) and have done just about everything on residential, and I do hobby electrical projects, so I know a great deal, but my primary trade isn't electrical. This video is easy to follow and right to the point as opposed to videos full of filler and crappy music. I will check out your other videos! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks James! I just ordered the same brake, this is getting expensive! :) Great video and explanation. I ended up finding a buck/boost transformer like yours on ebay and the seller was local! Your video was the best explanation I could find on this issue! Thanks for your work!
I just watched a video that folks here would probably find very interesting. It is at a chan called Applied Science. (I hope youtube doesn't erase this post)
I don't see how "VA" is the applicable rating. The wire in the winding has an inherent _current_ limit. Beyond which it will overheat.
Given the different configurations that the transformer can be wired for, it would be very confusing to determine the current limit. If the VA limit applies to the bucked power (i.e., if you're bucking 20v, you can draw 25A), the different bucked voltages would imply different current limits. On the chart, the maximum bucked voltage is 46v (implies a current limit of 11A) & the minimum is 12v (42A). It is highly unlikely that the transformer could supply 42A for very long.
How is a VA rating more useful than a current rating?
You thought about it for a few minutes and decided the way the industry rates these devices is wrong, and this device doesn't meet it's advertised specs?
@@Clough42 Snarky. Is that your way of saying that you don't know why a VA rating is more useful than a current rating? I'm saying that I don't understand, not saying that it's wrong.
What??? Those Wago connectors are awesome! I think you're channel has the highest ratio of things I've never heard of that once I've heard of it I absolutely have to have it. Seriously!
They make also push wire clamps for solid wire (only!) so you may forget wire nuts and use these orange cuties instead when wiring outlets etc.
Congratulations, your life will never be the same. 👍
Why cant industry just standardize this stuff, I'm so fuckin tired of spending thousands on a machine only to find out that I still have more to spend just to be able to plug it in and turn it on.
Modern tools are, for the most part. My Miller Dynasty takes nearly all voltages and phases up to 480 V 3 phase. This is because it is an inverter based. These require active power factor correction which makes for more complicated design.
This brake was probably designed for industrial application where three phase is available so 208 to 220 volt service. Including a multi tap auto transformer would place the price point higher.
Nice flip flops.
Errata 19:49 Not Wire nut. Anyway, minutia aside. This was a really enjoyable explanation of a non-trivial subject. Thanks
3:05 under water on the moon?that sounds silly,bet nobody did that back in 1969
I know you're a VFD kind of guy, but it's worth noting that buck/boost transformers can be very useful for people running CNC machines from rotary phase converters. CNCs tend to be rather picky about uniform phase-to-phase voltage. Even some non-CNC machines will trip the overloads if the phases are too far off.
Be careful with that camera distortion. Don’t want to bend your bender.
I was thinking about fixing the thumbnail.
Well, how else would you make an arc bendline??
I pick up probably a dozen step up/step down transformers every year from the industrial salvage place I visit. One of the biggest ones I’ve got weighs about 1500 pounds and is on casters. And I’ve seen much bigger. But don’t have a use for anything bigger than that.
These big factories and manufacturing plants buy tons of them,… And then don’t use them or for some reason take them to the salvage yard while still brand new on the pallet.
They are extremely useful, not to mention I have an electronics lab where I do component level board repair for industrial clients. So I can always use extra step up/down transformers. Most of the industrial duty high-end ones that I’ve seen have copper windings through and through. Usually tinplated. And I have actually seen inside some of the larger resin encapsulated transformers when they’ve been cut or busted open.
I watched this to see what a magnetic bender was........Hmmmmm, very dissapointed that you had to manually raise the bending thing to form the bend.......I think the the magnetic gripper is just a gimmick as you could have a cam operated clamp to be far less complicated and doesn't need any power.
I have a 10 ton shop press and bought one of those add on benders that go between the uprights and across the bottom of the frame and are just a pair of Vees that use the down force of the press to do the bending......OK, so it's only 500mm wide but I think it will bend 6mm steel .......width depending......quite easily with 10 tons on hand......your model is a bit more sophisticated.
Do you still recommend the linked buck transformer? I believe you spec'd it on the 10A on the sticker but later found it was 17.4A. I'm looking to get one for mine and wondering if you'd still get this one if you had a do over? Awesome video as usual!
24:03 and this is how you fix an ingrown toenail xD
Great video, always very pleasant to watch
As a electrician,I always used Nolox (anti oxidation compound) for Al. wire. But Mike Holt on YT is a code instructor and contractor. On his channel he states using the Nolox was required in the 1970s-1980s when the Al wire composition was different? Jerry in Pa.
Are screw-based terminal blocks never used in North America?
I'm all for convenience, and those connectors look OK, certainly better than those death trap wire nuts which seem to be so popular over there, but a nice bit of terminal strip would be just as good, and more serviceable, and would not damage the conductors so much.
Incredibly helpful and useful information. Thank you.
Thanks for the video, this is very useful knowledge.
An ounce of prevention= a pound of cure. Have used buck-boost transformers to boost 208 to 220 for certain applications, never to buck the voltage, you have to love those little magic boxes.
Is that OSHA approved foot wear?
I didn't ask.
Dusting off the cob-webs from my undergrad electromagnetic course. One of the odd things with AC current in inductors is that the maximum flux in the core is proportional to the voltage and proportional to the inverse of the frequency. Where this can get ugly is if the core saturates. When the core saturates it needs a LOT more current to keep increasing the flux in the core. This will show up as a poor power factor due to a current wave-form with a spike at the peak. This also shows up as quite a bit more heat as the inductor can end up drawing way more current than typical.
If there is no (sensitive) electronics involved (for instance in a control unit) and the max load is only needed in short bursts you might have considered a resister in serie (like a light bulb). (BTW I did not do the calculations.)
Best explanation of auto transformers I’ve ever heard, and it is MUCH clearer now - thanks!
I always thought "buck" and "boost" only referred to solid state converters. I always was taught to use the terms step up and step down with respect to transformers
Would be awesome if you could do more electronics and troubleshooting videos. You shot a few last year and they are some of the best videos on TH-cam explaining how to troubleshoot circuit boards.
James, even if I am french and need effort to understand all, your explanations about transformers and auto-transformers are very clear, and I learn some things today with you. It is strange to use everyday these devices and never tried to understand the principles. So thanks a lot to have light on my mean. I like this approach : buying a new machine, need a component and explain us how it works. Bravo !
Interesting, didn't know those existed, but it makes sense. Could you use capacitors instead of inductors like they do for crappy LED lights? They technically can't dissipate real power just like inductors, so it should work
Very nicely explained.
My theory about why they said to use 220V +-5% is because of two things: lower limit is for sufficient magnet strength (if V is too low - not enough clamping pressure will cause endless complaints) and higher limit is for thermal performance (the brake should not overheat under 100% duty cycle). If it's just electromagnet, which it most likely is (don't think there's much of any other electronics, except for some relay there), then higher voltage without continuous load will not affect the brake in any way. Although running it on 275VAC under water on the moon might cause brake to became sentient and be extremely confused.
If you read the various online forums, there are discussions about how they had lots of problems with the brakes when people ran them on 240V. The manufacturer often chimes in and says that when they started recommending that people use a buck transformer, it "seemed to solve the problem." Unfortunately, they also talk about the transformer "conditioning" the voltage and use phrases like "bleed off amperage from the board" that don't give me confidence they actually know exactly what's going on.
@@Clough42 Interesting! Now I'm curious what the reason for such tight voltage tolerance is.