I think it's drilled into you from most youtube videos and lessons, how hard you should paddle, I was fascinated to hear about waiting for the wave before you paddle. I've always thought I had to start padding early to match the speed of the wave. But your comments on it made a lot more sense
@@ombesurf howzit chaps! Awesome vid. Thank you. I have a question for you ( and sorry I am late here) when taking off. Do I grab and hold the rails? Or place hand flat on the deck when pushing up? I couldn't zoom in close enough. Thanks guys keep up the good work and thanks agaian
Great advice, one thing I would say Clay misses out that i've found when trying to apply their advice and Kale Brock covers a bit more, is this is very positioning dependent. If you have found yourself too far on the shoulder you will have to paddle hard and potentially dip your nose to the board. If you are too deep, you will have to have your foot right back on the tail and be leaning right back. It's their perfect positioning that allows them to arch then pop almost without paddling.
I’ve been usin Chris Mills pop up training , and he introduced me to Oreo, and look where yo want to go. Then smooth walk up not lung/jump up. HUGE improvement. After 12 months out of the water due to back issues, then returning and absolutely struggling, I started changing all my basics, and I’m getting more waves per session, getting in smooth with less effort, and more importantly enjoying myself again. So Oreo ! Oreo! 👍👍👍
Found myself on this video after taking a spill over the falls and not understanding what went wrong. Needed some rhyme or reason to this catastrophe and you gave me that peace. I under analyzed the situation afterward and blamed the wave for my shortcomings but here’s the story. Just surfed the first big swell of the winter in Southern California. About the same time last year I was surfing these bombs except on a longboard. Having transitioned from a step down, then finally a short board over the past year, I was feeling more confident than ever. Keep in mind I’m used to surfing grovel, and wave height topping out at 4 feet throughout the summer while getting to grips with this FireWire short board. In shear/pure excitement, on the very first wave I saw breaking towards me, I paddled straight at the top of the lip with no angel or proper positioning, arms and legs probably flailed about, and got obliterated over the falls on this 12-13 foot beast. Felt like I was slow motion in the air for like 30 seconds before I hit the water to then get rag dolled by Mother Nature. Was held under for about 15-20 seconds which felt like eternity. Everything was black and there was so much turmoil I could barely find the surface or get an idea of where I was. Popped back up to get slammed over and over by the incoming set. Felt like a nightmare and worse case scenario, no lifeguards out past the cliffs and my crew was still out the back. Paddled back out there tired and defeated but it was first wave so tried to not get nervous and shook it off to impress the mates, but it threw off my session and surfing mindset going forward. I got about 5 waves total and recovered nicely so the session was worth it but could’ve gotten more had I figured out how to fully relax. Taking my shot at these bigger waves was not a good move until I practiced more and studied some more techniques to apply in the water. Appreciate this video. It shows that wave selection, technique, positioning and timing are all crucial. For any new students of the game reading this, thinking about going out on bigger days and applying these take off principles, I suggest scoping out where the power is being drawn from like he says here, and mentally draw/map out your angels and takeoffs, or watching more experienced surfers take offs out in the lineup first before sending it or it could ruin a session and set back your psyche! Riding more powerful waves feels like a different animal but it’s the same beast, just more push/launch to it and room for error. That single wipeout taught me an invaluable lesson that you discuss in this video… stay calm and focused and feel the beefy energy of the wave, let it offer you a ride and accept it with smooth elegance. Disrespect it and try to slice through the very top of it with aggression and untrained technique and it shall destroy you, pat you on the head and say try again kook.
@@ombesurf I just watched this on Friday, went to the wavepool (Tullamarine) on Saturday morning. What an epiphany. This was so much easier and more relaxing than what I had been doing, and I had been doing it for a long time. It was like going to work the same way every day for ten years, then learning a short cut! I had a great surf on the intermediate setting. Thank you Clay and Anthony.
this video really heped me. i have been getting out less lately and my confidence has been going downhill big time. i find myself not catching any waves but getting tried from paddling like crazy all the time . And if i every did get in the right spot i would freak out and let the wave go. But today i just focussed on not paddling , i said to myself if i can't get on the wave without paddling like crazy let it go. then just focussed on getting in the right position and taking off. Well i got my wave of the year and my confidene instantly returned. thanks so much
Last week I dropped a comment regarding my vastly improved experience in the wavepool implementing these tips. A few days ago I went for a surf in the ocean. Beautiful 3-4' swell, offshore wind, autumn reef break in Torquay. I did my best to use these tips again and a rough estimate would be that I doubled my wave count with less effort and stress. I really felt so much more connected to the ocean. Thank you Clayton and Anthony!
Great format. Forty years of surfing and never broke it down like this. I’ve been a float and paddle surfer. Going to try for some no paddle take-offs. Awsome; thanks!
This was an interesting analysis. But I think they missed a key chance to point out hand position in the pop up. Look at the image of Kelly Slater they paused on at time 14:05 to 14:30. I am really surprised they didn't point out the position of his hands. His left hand is in front, under his pec, and his right hand is way back almost at his waist. This means that his shoulders are already turned in the direction he is going to go. We know we always have to lead with the shoulders and Kelly has that done before he even gets up. It is rare that surf movies include the pop up, but I found a clip that included Kelly's popup, I think in the September Sessions movie. I paused it and noticed his hands in this same position. I started incorporated that into my pop up back then, practicing it on the living room floor. This was probably the most significant change in my pop up in many years of surfing. It also helps you to look in the direction you want to go like they talk so much about in this video.
That’s how I pop up too - staggered. And it’s everything you mentioned above. I ride DK bodyboard and it helps negotiate steeper drop a lead hand in front to stop your weight from going over the nose.
Thanks guys, I had a "light bulb" moment on catching waves after 35 years of surfing. The "moment" was twofold. Firstly a wave is travelling faster than we can paddle. The best position to get up and plaining in most cases is the bottom part of the wave where the power is. The say the "devil is in the detail", I would rephrase this as the "light switch is in the detail". Thanks for going into the 'detail"
Great advice! I am now able to make a huge improvement on my pop up. My intentional changes are to look down the line and slow down my paddling, and I'm able to catch more waves now. Thank you very much guys! Really helps. Hope you all have a fantastic New Year!
I've joined the Ombe program and I feel so hopeful and positive about getting back on a shortboard now. I had read so many things like you have to match the speed of the wave, and paddle super hard. I'm a petite female surfing very male dominated lineups so I told myself I just wasn't built for riding a shortboard, can't paddle fast enough or strong enough etc. I'm going to give it another crack after so many wipeouts getting flipped by the lip at the top of the wave. The Oreo biscuit has already improved my surfing on my mid length, I deliberately wait for that beautiful gliding feeling before I take another step. Think I'll do that a million times over before I move onto turns etc (the reason I went to Ombe to begin with!!)
Thank you I have had major spine surgery and came out 60mm taller and the stretching robbed me of flexibility and muscle popup disappeared. I have been working hard on flexibility and strength and am making progress. Never had to think about popup till it was gone and your videos have explained stuff well and I hope will translate into success for me. Thanks heaps
So i tried this today inbetween surfs at the wave Bristol - the man talks sense.... For ages i thought I had to be chin on board, it does help when taking off on a shallow wave, but muuuuch easier to take of in the steep section with an arched back. Cheers!
Amazing tips. Can you guys do a video about longboard or mid length (7”6 / 8”) positions (bus stop) in the lineup and where to take a wave, pop-up and ideal lines? Thanks
This video was key to the improvement of my surfing, I've been riding a shortboard for about 6 months and have nailed the basics such as creating drive and performing turns but I went to the wave pool and my take-off was the element that let me down, video is so helpful. Cheers fellas keep up the work :)
One of my favourite lessons you guys have done. The concepts apply to surfing, snowboarding and surfskating. The video footage, the drawing on the screen, the editing are so clear and well explained. Bravo.
I applied your advises on this morning session, swell was bigger than I feel comfortable in and yet I took more wave than usual.... Especially the 'feel the wave' and 'push the tail down' have helped me a lot. THANKS A LOT MAN I was one of those paddling super hard, with chin down and eyes looking down....🤦♂
Have been working last 6-12 months on a more rapid and efficient popup. I’m a former body boarder. OMBE advice has been so amazingly helpful. Practising on land doesn’t work (at least for me). Instead focus more on advice re openness to falling. You’ll naturally force yourself to quickly adjust centre of gravity through a wider range of forward movements on wave. Instead of thinking ‘pop up’, it’s more like ‘plant’ (hands) and ‘expand’ (vertically) in to the space you’ve created by moving your center of gravity over the face of the wave / angular direction. As I do this I think ‘look’ to get that laser focus on where I want to go. Like I was reminded recently in the water, slower pop ups mean air board in contact with more water (resistance), ie. making any type of manipulation by the rider much more difficult! It’s far easier to push down just as the wave takes you, thereby creating that ‘expand’ window to simply (eventually!) move in to. So, yeah, timing is a big part of this too.
From the US east coast here..Only seen a few vids so far but appreciating the content..been primarily a BB'er my whole life but the drop in concepts are basically the same..now at 45yo looking to commit myself to stand up surfing again after a few half assed attempts over the years
This video was a game changer for me. I'm surfing about a year now and to me was very difficult to find where to start paddle and where I have to focus when start to paddle. I watch this video 3 months ago and my surf have totally change for better. Thank you very much for this content, go on boys.
Fantastic explanation, thank you! I was trying to explain this feeling to my wife the other day when I use a shorter board with a wider tail and felt the wave lift my tail up and launch me in. Seeing it explained like this is eye opening, I can’t wait to get back in the water and fix some of my mistakes!
@23:52 -- I just realized that what you call the coffee cup in motorcycle riding, we call counter steering ( countersteer is cool and it seems counterintuitive... worth a youtube search! ) You want to go right? You actually push with your right hand (steering the front tire left). Want to go left? You end up pushing with your left hand. The force transfer / coffee cup / counter steer is what causes the correct lean. I'm wondering if his palm flip isn't the result of him explicitly leaning his arms but rather trying to counter steer even harder. Try it in a similar stance -- drive your right hand further forward (forcing a harder right turn). If you keep your palms flat, it's awkward. but if you relax, the left palm spins out as you drive a harder counter steer (right hand coffee cup) That is wild that surfing has a similar steering mechanic (different forces but same kind of input control).
Thanks guys surfed like 45 years ago and haven't been much for years unfit have problems getting up need to do some push-ups lol but I should get up easier next time thanks.
I've been using this technique without me knowing it, my friends always call me a lazy paddler. If you just push your tail down right in the bottom of the wave and then paddle twice you will just fly into the wave haha.
@@TenTXtreme I can relate! This seems a lot like what I do to survive the banger waves at our harbor. I always thought it was because 'I' was a lazy paddler because at other breaks people are paddling away & I'm like THAT'S too much work 😂
some are good, some are very good, some some win championships but what sets people apart, like Slater, Robertinho of the Brazilian soccer team (2002), Michael Phelps, Michael jordan, Leonel Messi and John John Florence, is the abilty to understand the game and get that extra advantage over other great ones
Nice, I learned on a board with not enough volume so I developped the habits of paddling like a mad man and lowering my head before the takeoff.. apparently im doing the exact wrong thing lol.. ill try to be more mindfull of my positioning, keep my chin up, feet down and look down the line. Great stuff
Have you guys done an episode on pop up/paddling into waves for big guy/ heavy surfers? I’m built like a linebacker, 6’1”, 235(COVID LOL-usually 225) wide shoulders, muscular.., BUT I LOVE TO SURF!! I’ve been surging for 25 years and crave more tips/Vids for bigger guys who are built for football but inside are soul surfers.
I feel like I need to watch this weekly and then every time before I go surfing because I swear I forget all of these great tips as soon as I get in the water
Such a great video and analysis. Really like your comment about taking off at the bottom of the wave, which may feel like the scariest part! Gonna go and practice now! Please continue to share on this subject (i.e. wave entry in different kind of waves) 🤙
Third time I've watched this vid and it seems so obvious but only once its been pointed out. This is definitely the best channel for good surfing advice 👍
That has always been my biggest problem staying on the inside and paddle out to catch a wave . The reason for me is many times it's a quick snap up with no momentum from paddling and getting myself in good position on the board . This definitely limits me and when surfing is a more and more a crowded lineup opportunity doesn't knock very much with guys around who are very athletic advanced surfers . 5 advanced guys in a crowded lineup can get 90 percent of the waves as they don't hesitate and many times have less fear than the general population
when i surfed in a spot here in brazil i noticed a mate who would not even paddle, and instead all he did was lift the nose of the board, creating some sort of tension/jump, and then he would engage with the wave and surf it, to my disbelief
one thing I wondered about....esp on steeper later waves, on takeoff I try to breathe out or at least not hold my breath and stiffen my torso. like the breakdown of taking off closer to the bottom and getting lift, i have to fix that
The advice in this video is great, although would be great to see some dry land demonstration of Claytons pop up technique, would be helpful for those of us having trouble with the mechanics of getting up effectively/consistently.
Interesting.... in landscaping a natural slope will only sustain itself in a 1:1 ration aka 45• aka the point the wave will cause you to “landslide”🤔🤔🤔
Hey Clayton and Anthony, thanks for sharing this! I went surfing yesterday and tried the Oreo Biscuit tip and it definitely helped me. Something just “clicked” for me and my experience was better and more effortless. Quick question though: a lot of coaches say that you have to lower your chin just before the pop-up. How do you fit this with the standing position of the Oreo Biscuit? First you arch your back and as soon as you feel the glide you lower the chin and pop-up? Anyways, thanks! It was really helpful
I had the same thought. I would say a late take off like john john's doesn't need lowering the head. Though you see Kelly is doing it briefly on his wave which allows him to hardly paddle. Wouldn't it be a very useful technique when waves are less perfect or you're slightly out of position in order to to give you just that little extra speed of to match that of the wave when gliding?
I have a question- I'm stepping down form long boarding. I often find I'm pearling on shorter boards (6'6-7). I think what's happening is the back of the board is being picked up like the guys around 3:43 on the video. I'm wondering if board length/volume is too much for me. As a woman, I have less weight in my shoulders and when I raise my shoulders and head, it seems to have less effect on the back of the board. Do you have any tips for this? Should I be thinking about a specific type of board for this situation? Thanks!
If you're still having issues with this, don't drop straight in. Get some angle initiated to the wave before you hit your feet. Reaction time is also critical.
Dude on 7:08 just failed the popup and had his front foot off center I think. Difficult to recover. Buts not the I look left so I go left situation, don't u think? Thanks for the vid. Great content
@@corettamundo Just looked I think a big part of the reason he messed up his foot placement is because his whole body language was facing the guy he wanted to miss during the pop up
I've only spectated at a wave pool session and was surprised how many surfers blew the takeoff. The fact the waves come at you quickly after the previous surfer, creates tension particularly if the person in front falls off. In beach situations you hardly ever have two waves so close together. People, like I was, standing at the wall and videoing right next to you is disconcerting to the average surfer. I would have liked to see comparison of good and bad takeoffs in the wave pool.
So I was hoping for a lesson in how to position and catch a wave like Kelly’s with two easy strokes! And then I realised with Masons wave example you still have to paddle your lungs out as no wave is the same unless you’re in a wave pool 🤷🏻♂️
I have recently tried Wavegarden for the first time in Europe. I think it was the same technology as the one in this video. I felt like there was a considerable difference in how to approach the take off. About three seconds before the wave hits your tail, you're being sucked backwards, towards the wave. I have never experienced it to this strong extent in the ocean. Therefore everyone paddles frantically in the flat. So, in order to see a fair comparison between the average Joe and the pro, it would have been nice to see footage of a good surfer in that wave park.
Haha Mason surfing my home break. The crazy thing is you can sit at an even deeper peak and get some of the craziest barrels on earth. Mason's actually sitting at the middle peak you need to sit about 50 feet deeper
I was at cocoa beach surfing and sucking like usual and an old guy paddles next to me turns around and floats up to the top of a wave and stands and then continues to ride it. Man did not paddle in on a single wave it was insane.
Hiii guys, first i want to tell you that you make a really good job, i follow you and i also subscribed for lessons in internet. I'm french so sorry for the wrong grammar. I had a question no one seem's to answer but it look like my biggest problem during the take off. It's like despite following the all rules, i'm feeling heavy and i can't really raise (pop)so easily than you. So my question is why you didn't make a video about muscles involved in the take off ? Some people speak about the lower part of the back and the quadriceps and also the core to really raise up fast and easily but the transfert of energy stay confusing for me....i can see that the arms, chests and pectorals are not involved that much because when you lift your upper body you can and need to stay a little arch ( so without momentum made by the push up ), and the talk about the importance of the lower part of the body sound underestimate to me. What do you think about it ? Thanks a lot for your great job
Great video analysis guys! Really appreciate the breakdown and tips! Something I've been wondering about recently is whether or not experienced surfers push their board forward with their hands slightly on take off? Or even the reverse (pushing back)? Maybe there's a simple answer to this? Or maybe there could be more content focus in this area? Maybe no one does it...
At around 18:45 there’s a little segment about taking off at the bottom of the wave vs top of the wave. How do you control how high you are on the wave when you take off. Is it determined by distance from the shore or by paddling technique and body position on the board or timing of when you start to paddle ?
Hi guys. You show the ‘bad’ in the wave pool but the ‘good’ in the ocean. Any chance of some slow mo of ‘good’ in the wave pool so you can break down the entry and pop up. It’s harder to see exactly what’s going on in The ocean Excellent content though Cheers
I took a surf lesson earlier this year. The waves were low energy, 1-2 ft perfect for a beginner like myself. I managed to make 50% or more, but my instructor had me paddling like a mad man for a good 10 seconds maybe longer in the flat before popping up. Was that correct given the conditions or no? I was on a 10ft foamy. I was a lifeguard in HS and am still a strong swimmer. I felt like I paddled half way to shore before popping up. I was about exhausted after about an hour of stress paddling to catch waves.
Hey guys, I am always clipping (touching) the traction pad with my behind foot outer side of the big toe during take off. After a few weeks this hurts a lot. Did you have the same problem with students so far?
kool..everyone on shorter boards here where I am in the North East UK kicks to get into waves...I,ve seen a few kick when paddling out...).I always thought it looked a bit kooky but it seems to get them into waves..I was thinking about starting to do it myself but I might re-consider..
They never said “dont ever kick”. Pros kick when necessary. If you’re going to kick, do it at the right time and with control, not with legs flailing about (like in this video from the pool).
@@middleagedshred In general if you're using a short board, you can kick as a last resort to create a bit more forward momentum once you feel the wave start to lift the board (i.e. the point at which you're no longer paddling to get into the right position but have started trying to "catch" the wave). The kick should not be a huge thrashing kick as this will destabilise the board and create drag. Check out this video: th-cam.com/video/XYZ46bGfZ08/w-d-xo.html Most of the pros kick a bit for added momentum into the wave, but the pop up is exactly as described in the Ombe video here (arched back, Oreo biscuit, looking down the line etc.). But many amateurs (including me) often use kicking as a way to compensate for not being in the best position to catch the wave, which ain't great. I think that's what they were getting at in this vid. Hope that helps!
@@davidgough3512 I think it's likely to be both. If the tail lifts when kicking, then you get less drag through the water (like a boat sitting higher in the water), and therefore all else being equal your speed increases. What do you think about Clayton's idea in this video that downward pressure in the back half of the board is important to catch waves (he calls it the oreo biscuit).
I think it's drilled into you from most youtube videos and lessons, how hard you should paddle, I was fascinated to hear about waiting for the wave before you paddle. I've always thought I had to start padding early to match the speed of the wave. But your comments on it made a lot more sense
So good to hear Aidan!
@@ombesurf howzit chaps! Awesome vid. Thank you. I have a question for you ( and sorry I am late here) when taking off. Do I grab and hold the rails? Or place hand flat on the deck when pushing up? I couldn't zoom in close enough.
Thanks guys keep up the good work and thanks agaian
@@andrewmillaralways you place your hands flat on the board under your chest
@@alina1005 thanks Alina
Yes I thought the same thing based on the videos I've watched! This makes so much sense though.. mind blown
Great advice, one thing I would say Clay misses out that i've found when trying to apply their advice and Kale Brock covers a bit more, is this is very positioning dependent. If you have found yourself too far on the shoulder you will have to paddle hard and potentially dip your nose to the board. If you are too deep, you will have to have your foot right back on the tail and be leaning right back. It's their perfect positioning that allows them to arch then pop almost without paddling.
100% agree. I do think they need to talk more about positioning!
He literally says this at 14:28...
I’ve been usin Chris Mills pop up training , and he introduced me to Oreo, and look where yo want to go. Then smooth walk up not lung/jump up.
HUGE improvement.
After 12 months out of the water due to back issues, then returning and absolutely struggling, I started changing all my basics, and I’m getting more waves per session, getting in smooth with less effort, and more importantly enjoying myself again.
So Oreo ! Oreo! 👍👍👍
Found myself on this video after taking a spill over the falls and not understanding what went wrong. Needed some rhyme or reason to this catastrophe and you gave me that peace. I under analyzed the situation afterward and blamed the wave for my shortcomings but here’s the story. Just surfed the first big swell of the winter in Southern California. About the same time last year I was surfing these bombs except on a longboard. Having transitioned from a step down, then finally a short board over the past year, I was feeling more confident than ever. Keep in mind I’m used to surfing grovel, and wave height topping out at 4 feet throughout the summer while getting to grips with this FireWire short board. In shear/pure excitement, on the very first wave I saw breaking towards me, I paddled straight at the top of the lip with no angel or proper positioning, arms and legs probably flailed about, and got obliterated over the falls on this 12-13 foot beast. Felt like I was slow motion in the air for like 30 seconds before I hit the water to then get rag dolled by Mother Nature. Was held under for about 15-20 seconds which felt like eternity. Everything was black and there was so much turmoil I could barely find the surface or get an idea of where I was. Popped back up to get slammed over and over by the incoming set. Felt like a nightmare and worse case scenario, no lifeguards out past the cliffs and my crew was still out the back. Paddled back out there tired and defeated but it was first wave so tried to not get nervous and shook it off to impress the mates, but it threw off my session and surfing mindset going forward. I got about 5 waves total and recovered nicely so the session was worth it but could’ve gotten more had I figured out how to fully relax. Taking my shot at these bigger waves was not a good move until I practiced more and studied some more techniques to apply in the water.
Appreciate this video. It shows that wave selection, technique, positioning and timing are all crucial. For any new students of the game reading this, thinking about going out on bigger days and applying these take off principles, I suggest scoping out where the power is being drawn from like he says here, and mentally draw/map out your angels and takeoffs, or watching more experienced surfers take offs out in the lineup first before sending it or it could ruin a session and set back your psyche!
Riding more powerful waves feels like a different animal but it’s the same beast, just more push/launch to it and room for error. That single wipeout taught me an invaluable lesson that you discuss in this video… stay calm and focused and feel the beefy energy of the wave, let it offer you a ride and accept it with smooth elegance. Disrespect it and try to slice through the very top of it with aggression and untrained technique and it shall destroy you, pat you on the head and say try again kook.
Epic comment.
Stay stoked.
Great breakdown!
Damn...this was better than expected. Been surfing all my life and now I learned something new.
totally agree..
Thanks Ben!
@@ombesurf I just watched this on Friday, went to the wavepool (Tullamarine) on Saturday morning. What an epiphany. This was so much easier and more relaxing than what I had been doing, and I had been doing it for a long time. It was like going to work the same way every day for ten years, then learning a short cut! I had a great surf on the intermediate setting. Thank you Clay and Anthony.
this video really heped me. i have been getting out less lately and my confidence has been going downhill big time. i find myself not catching any waves but getting tried from paddling like crazy all the time . And if i every did get in the right spot i would freak out and let the wave go. But today i just focussed on not paddling , i said to myself if i can't get on the wave without paddling like crazy let it go. then just focussed on getting in the right position and taking off. Well i got my wave of the year and my confidene instantly returned. thanks so much
It only takes a couple and you’re back. Then you’re more confident, so you’ll get more waves. Then you get more confident. . .
Feeds into itself .
Last week I dropped a comment regarding my vastly improved experience in the wavepool implementing these tips. A few days ago I went for a surf in the ocean. Beautiful 3-4' swell, offshore wind, autumn reef break in Torquay. I did my best to use these tips again and a rough estimate would be that I doubled my wave count with less effort and stress. I really felt so much more connected to the ocean. Thank you Clayton and Anthony!
Great format. Forty years of surfing and never broke it down like this. I’ve been a float and paddle surfer. Going to try for some no paddle take-offs. Awsome; thanks!
This was an interesting analysis. But I think they missed a key chance to point out hand position in the pop up. Look at the image of Kelly Slater they paused on at time 14:05 to 14:30. I am really surprised they didn't point out the position of his hands. His left hand is in front, under his pec, and his right hand is way back almost at his waist. This means that his shoulders are already turned in the direction he is going to go. We know we always have to lead with the shoulders and Kelly has that done before he even gets up. It is rare that surf movies include the pop up, but I found a clip that included Kelly's popup, I think in the September Sessions movie. I paused it and noticed his hands in this same position. I started incorporated that into my pop up back then, practicing it on the living room floor. This was probably the most significant change in my pop up in many years of surfing. It also helps you to look in the direction you want to go like they talk so much about in this video.
There's some pretty good footage if different pros pop ups in Kelly slaters wave pool and they all do that slightly differently.
That’s how I pop up too - staggered. And it’s everything you mentioned above.
I ride DK bodyboard and it helps negotiate steeper drop a lead hand in front to stop your weight from going over the nose.
This is surfing for surf geeks. Love it!
We are the biggest geeks
Thanks guys, I had a "light bulb" moment on catching waves after 35 years of surfing. The "moment" was twofold. Firstly a wave is travelling faster than we can paddle. The best position to get up and plaining in most cases is the bottom part of the wave where the power is. The say the "devil is in the detail", I would rephrase this as the "light switch is in the detail". Thanks for going into the 'detail"
Thank you!
The teachings here are golden! I used them, translating over to drop-knee bodyboard, and things were clicking 🔥🔥🔥
Thankyou
@ Really interested in your program… have you taught DK bodyboarders before?
Great advice! I am now able to make a huge improvement on my pop up. My intentional changes are to look down the line and slow down my paddling, and I'm able to catch more waves now. Thank you very much guys! Really helps. Hope you all have a fantastic New Year!
I think you have best surf lessons on TH-cam. They are so easy to use on your own. Thank you very much
I've joined the Ombe program and I feel so hopeful and positive about getting back on a shortboard now. I had read so many things like you have to match the speed of the wave, and paddle super hard. I'm a petite female surfing very male dominated lineups so I told myself I just wasn't built for riding a shortboard, can't paddle fast enough or strong enough etc. I'm going to give it another crack after so many wipeouts getting flipped by the lip at the top of the wave. The Oreo biscuit has already improved my surfing on my mid length, I deliberately wait for that beautiful gliding feeling before I take another step. Think I'll do that a million times over before I move onto turns etc (the reason I went to Ombe to begin with!!)
Thank you
I have had major spine surgery and came out 60mm taller and the stretching robbed me of flexibility and muscle popup disappeared.
I have been working hard on flexibility and strength and am making progress.
Never had to think about popup till it was gone and your videos have explained stuff well and I hope will translate into success for me.
Thanks heaps
All the best with the recovery
So i tried this today inbetween surfs at the wave Bristol - the man talks sense....
For ages i thought I had to be chin on board, it does help when taking off on a shallow wave, but muuuuch easier to take of in the steep section with an arched back. Cheers!
Amazing tips. Can you guys do a video about longboard or mid length (7”6 / 8”) positions (bus stop) in the lineup and where to take a wave, pop-up and ideal lines? Thanks
Bus stop positions dont change with board size
the actual "this what you are doing wrong" that I really needed !! thanks guys this is going to help so much !!
This video was key to the improvement of my surfing, I've been riding a shortboard for about 6 months and have nailed the basics such as creating drive and performing turns but I went to the wave pool and my take-off was the element that let me down, video is so helpful. Cheers fellas keep up the work :)
Thank you Johnny, Glad it has helped you!
wave pools are less boyant
One of my favourite lessons you guys have done. The concepts apply to surfing, snowboarding and surfskating.
The video footage, the drawing on the screen, the editing are so clear and well explained. Bravo.
These concepts apply to body surfing and bodyboarding too.
Trying to teach myself at 31. So many points that i know it would have taken me years to figure out. Much love
I applied your advises on this morning session, swell was bigger than I feel comfortable in and yet I took more wave than usual.... Especially the 'feel the wave' and 'push the tail down' have helped me a lot. THANKS A LOT MAN I was one of those paddling super hard, with chin down and eyes looking down....🤦♂
Have been working last 6-12 months on a more rapid and efficient popup. I’m a former body boarder. OMBE advice has been so amazingly helpful. Practising on land doesn’t work (at least for me). Instead focus more on advice re openness to falling. You’ll naturally force yourself to quickly adjust centre of gravity through a wider range of forward movements on wave. Instead of thinking ‘pop up’, it’s more like ‘plant’ (hands) and ‘expand’ (vertically) in to the space you’ve created by moving your center of gravity over the face of the wave / angular direction. As I do this I think ‘look’ to get that laser focus on where I want to go. Like I was reminded recently in the water, slower pop ups mean air board in contact with more water (resistance), ie. making any type of manipulation by the rider much more difficult! It’s far easier to push down just as the wave takes you, thereby creating that ‘expand’ window to simply (eventually!) move in to. So, yeah, timing is a big part of this too.
I took away from this was
1 look where im want to go
2 chin high on paddle
3 coffee cup
4 point and relax
From the US east coast here..Only seen a few vids so far but appreciating the content..been primarily a BB'er my whole life but the drop in concepts are basically the same..now at 45yo looking to commit myself to stand up surfing again after a few half assed attempts over the years
This video was a game changer for me. I'm surfing about a year now and to me was very difficult to find where to start paddle and where I have to focus when start to paddle. I watch this video 3 months ago and my surf have totally change for better. Thank you very much for this content, go on boys.
Fantastic explanation, thank you! I was trying to explain this feeling to my wife the other day when I use a shorter board with a wider tail and felt the wave lift my tail up and launch me in. Seeing it explained like this is eye opening, I can’t wait to get back in the water and fix some of my mistakes!
@23:52 -- I just realized that what you call the coffee cup in motorcycle riding, we call counter steering ( countersteer is cool and it seems counterintuitive... worth a youtube search! )
You want to go right? You actually push with your right hand (steering the front tire left). Want to go left? You end up pushing with your left hand. The force transfer / coffee cup / counter steer is what causes the correct lean.
I'm wondering if his palm flip isn't the result of him explicitly leaning his arms but rather trying to counter steer even harder. Try it in a similar stance -- drive your right hand further forward (forcing a harder right turn). If you keep your palms flat, it's awkward. but if you relax, the left palm spins out as you drive a harder counter steer (right hand coffee cup)
That is wild that surfing has a similar steering mechanic (different forces but same kind of input control).
It’s a speed thing
I’ve watched this 3 times now
Plenty of gold nuggets !
I’m out at the pool this weekend
I definitely give these a try
Thanks again
Good luck!
Really great info. Made a difference in my surfing immediately (and I’ve been surfing for 30 years)!
Thanks guys surfed like 45 years ago and haven't been much for years unfit have problems getting up need to do some push-ups lol but I should get up easier next time thanks.
I used the Oreo Biscuit just a few days ago, it works amazingly! So easy to catch waves.
Thats so good to hear!
I've been using this technique without me knowing it, my friends always call me a lazy paddler. If you just push your tail down right in the bottom of the wave and then paddle twice you will just fly into the wave haha.
@@TenTXtreme I can relate! This seems a lot like what I do to survive the banger waves at our harbor. I always thought it was because 'I' was a lazy paddler because at other breaks people are paddling away & I'm like THAT'S too much work 😂
you guys need a donation option. These videos have helped me IMMENSELY!!
Could you please make a video about taking off on a wave but angling your board?
Thanks so much for the videos so far, learning heaps!
Hi there, Would you be able to place you idea here? -> ombe.co/roadmap. Thanks!
some are good, some are very good, some some win championships but what sets people apart, like Slater, Robertinho of the Brazilian soccer team (2002), Michael Phelps, Michael jordan, Leonel Messi and John John Florence, is the abilty to understand the game and get that extra advantage over other great ones
Nice, I learned on a board with not enough volume so I developped the habits of paddling like a mad man and lowering my head before the takeoff.. apparently im doing the exact wrong thing lol.. ill try to be more mindfull of my positioning, keep my chin up, feet down and look down the line. Great stuff
Have you guys done an episode on pop up/paddling into waves for big guy/ heavy surfers? I’m built like a linebacker, 6’1”, 235(COVID LOL-usually 225) wide shoulders, muscular.., BUT I LOVE TO SURF!! I’ve been surging for 25 years and crave more tips/Vids for bigger guys who are built for football but inside are soul surfers.
incredibly good analysis
Thank you so much!
I feel like I need to watch this weekly and then every time before I go surfing because I swear I forget all of these great tips as soon as I get in the water
Just take on one at a time
I’m starting to surf and these vids really help. Thank you so much!
Happy to help!
Such a great video and analysis. Really like your comment about taking off at the bottom of the wave, which may feel like the scariest part! Gonna go and practice now! Please continue to share on this subject (i.e. wave entry in different kind of waves) 🤙
Glad you enjoyed it!
WOW! This is best pop up tutorial! Cant wait to apply this knowledge in the ocean later today. Thank you guys
Love it! Great collection of golden nuggets to help think about the basics. Cheers gents.
Cheers man!
Keep your legs together too. Those wavegarden people who pearled all had their legs spread open.
Good one
Third time I've watched this vid and it seems so obvious but only once its been pointed out. This is definitely the best channel for good surfing advice 👍
Have they surfed the wave pool there is a massive drag of water pulling you back,like water being pulled off a shallow reef
This videos is awesome. It gave me a few basic tips. I will stop kicking on my popups
Great video. Really detailed and helpful. I’ll do my best to implement this
It will be a game changer!
This video really helps me a lot to improve.. Thanks from the Philippines🇵🇭
That has always been my biggest problem staying on the inside and paddle out to catch a wave . The reason for me is many times it's a quick snap up with no momentum from paddling and getting myself in good position on the board . This definitely limits me and when surfing is a more and more a crowded lineup opportunity doesn't knock very much with guys around who are very athletic advanced surfers . 5 advanced guys in a crowded lineup can get 90 percent of the waves as they don't hesitate and many times have less fear than the general population
when i surfed in a spot here in brazil i noticed a mate who would not even paddle, and instead all he did was lift the nose of the board, creating some sort of tension/jump, and then he would engage with the wave and surf it, to my disbelief
Best technique analysis I’ve seen.
Thank you so much Adrian!
It is good reminder to see this video again, thanks!
one thing I wondered about....esp on steeper later waves, on takeoff I try to breathe out or at least not hold my breath and stiffen my torso. like the breakdown of taking off closer to the bottom and getting lift, i have to fix that
Keep on trucking Mat!
The advice in this video is great, although would be great to see some dry land demonstration of Claytons pop up technique, would be helpful for those of us having trouble with the mechanics of getting up effectively/consistently.
Hey Kat, All those demos you get in the accelerated surf program here: ombe.co/your-programs/
this coach really have knowledge
If the swell is short and weak so that it doesn't pick you up easily should you then paddle more?
Good little vid, some golden nuggets in there 🤙
Thanks!
Best teacher ever!!
Interesting.... in landscaping a natural slope will only sustain itself in a 1:1 ration aka 45• aka the point the wave will cause you to “landslide”🤔🤔🤔
Interesting.
Interesting
Hey Clayton and Anthony, thanks for sharing this! I went surfing yesterday and tried the Oreo Biscuit tip and it definitely helped me. Something just “clicked” for me and my experience was better and more effortless.
Quick question though: a lot of coaches say that you have to lower your chin just before the pop-up. How do you fit this with the standing position of the Oreo Biscuit? First you arch your back and as soon as you feel the glide you lower the chin and pop-up?
Anyways, thanks! It was really helpful
I had the same thought. I would say a late take off like john john's doesn't need lowering the head. Though you see Kelly is doing it briefly on his wave which allows him to hardly paddle. Wouldn't it be a very useful technique when waves are less perfect or you're slightly out of position in order to to give you just that little extra speed of to match that of the wave when gliding?
th-cam.com/video/LQ-TfdXKu1I/w-d-xo.html this guy's explaining it here
I have a question- I'm stepping down form long boarding. I often find I'm pearling on shorter boards (6'6-7). I think what's happening is the back of the board is being picked up like the guys around 3:43 on the video. I'm wondering if board length/volume is too much for me. As a woman, I have less weight in my shoulders and when I raise my shoulders and head, it seems to have less effect on the back of the board. Do you have any tips for this? Should I be thinking about a specific type of board for this situation? Thanks!
If you're still having issues with this, don't drop straight in. Get some angle initiated to the wave before you hit your feet. Reaction time is also critical.
Brilliant teaching
Many thanks
Revenge of the nerds. Most detailed and thus awesome analysis on earth. #StrongWorkYo
Dude on 7:08 just failed the popup and had his front foot off center I think. Difficult to recover. Buts not the I look left so I go left situation, don't u think?
Thanks for the vid. Great content
Thank you! Not sure what you mean in your question.
@@ombesurf i meant i think he just messed up the take off and went left because of the off-center foot position.
@@corettamundo Just looked I think a big part of the reason he messed up his foot placement is because his whole body language was facing the guy he wanted to miss during the pop up
Great teachers thanks for the lesson 🤙🏾
Our pleasure! Thanks Armando!
its heaps different in the urban wave pool, you have to paddle alot harder than usual. Its quite a steep takeoff
I've only spectated at a wave pool session and was surprised how many surfers blew the takeoff. The fact the waves come at you quickly after the previous surfer, creates tension particularly if the person in front falls off. In beach situations you hardly ever have two waves so close together. People, like I was, standing at the wall and videoing right next to you is disconcerting to the average surfer. I would have liked to see comparison of good and bad takeoffs in the wave pool.
So I was hoping for a lesson in how to position and catch a wave like Kelly’s with two easy strokes! And then I realised with Masons wave example you still have to paddle your lungs out as no wave is the same unless you’re in a wave pool 🤷🏻♂️
this guy knows his jazz 🤙🏻
JJs wave is kind of a double up. He is paddling for the energy of the first, smaller wave which is some earlier energy than the second.
I have recently tried Wavegarden for the first time in Europe. I think it was the same technology as the one in this video. I felt like there was a considerable difference in how to approach the take off. About three seconds before the wave hits your tail, you're being sucked backwards, towards the wave. I have never experienced it to this strong extent in the ocean. Therefore everyone paddles frantically in the flat. So, in order to see a fair comparison between the average Joe and the pro, it would have been nice to see footage of a good surfer in that wave park.
once you surf pumping Green Bowl you will get what its meant to be sucked properly and probably experience the famous Over the fall... cheers mate
Haha Mason surfing my home break. The crazy thing is you can sit at an even deeper peak and get some of the craziest barrels on earth. Mason's actually sitting at the middle peak you need to sit about 50 feet deeper
Love this video guys keep em coming
We will Daniel! Thanks!
I was at cocoa beach surfing and sucking like usual and an old guy paddles next to me turns around and floats up to the top of a wave and stands and then continues to ride it. Man did not paddle in on a single wave it was insane.
Hiii guys, first i want to tell you that you make a really good job, i follow you and i also subscribed for lessons in internet. I'm french so sorry for the wrong grammar. I had a question no one seem's to answer but it look like my biggest problem during the take off. It's like despite following the all rules, i'm feeling heavy and i can't really raise (pop)so easily than you. So my question is why you didn't make a video about muscles involved in the take off ? Some people speak about the lower part of the back and the quadriceps and also the core to really raise up fast and easily but the transfert of energy stay confusing for me....i can see that the arms, chests and pectorals are not involved that much because when you lift your upper body you can and need to stay a little arch ( so without momentum made by the push up ), and the talk about the importance of the lower part of the body sound underestimate to me. What do you think about it ?
Thanks a lot for your great job
Amazing!!!
Thx so much for this lesson guys
Came across this video after an intense nose dive session. Thought my problem was not paddling enough but turns out I might have been over paddling!
Great video analysis guys! Really appreciate the breakdown and tips! Something I've been wondering about recently is whether or not experienced surfers push their board forward with their hands slightly on take off? Or even the reverse (pushing back)? Maybe there's a simple answer to this? Or maybe there could be more content focus in this area? Maybe no one does it...
Epic breakdown. Thank you!
Hope I can implement these ideas I can’t for the life of me catch steep waves 🤣 thanks guys
You can do it!
I’m feeling the same thing right now. Let’s see if we can do it. I’m gonna try tomorrow I got good waves 😂
@@gonzalodiaz9878 Go Gonzalo!! Oreo biscuited those mofos
Good video the info is slowly sinking in, the more I watch these kind of video the more sense they make in theory anyway
Make a video on bailing your board and getting under a 5' wave at Blacks. i DONT know how they do it.
Dr. Gnar dropping knowledge
Speed of sea waves depends on its period (in seconds) and the sea depth.... it is not related to the size of the wave
At around 18:45 there’s a little segment about taking off at the bottom of the wave vs top of the wave. How do you control how high you are on the wave when you take off. Is it determined by distance from the shore or by paddling technique and body position on the board or timing of when you start to paddle ?
Good question. You feel the lift. Think of water draining down a bath plug hole. It’s the swirl vortex. A wave is no different
Superb breakdown thank you!
Hi guys. You show the ‘bad’ in the wave pool but the ‘good’ in the ocean. Any chance of some slow mo of ‘good’ in the wave pool so you can break down the entry and pop up. It’s harder to see exactly what’s going on in The ocean
Excellent content though
Cheers
A lot of die hards disregard pool content as “not real” so we try use ocean as often as possible
I took a surf lesson earlier this year. The waves were low energy, 1-2 ft perfect for a beginner like myself. I managed to make 50% or more, but my instructor had me paddling like a mad man for a good 10 seconds maybe longer in the flat before popping up. Was that correct given the conditions or no? I was on a 10ft foamy. I was a lifeguard in HS and am still a strong swimmer. I felt like I paddled half way to shore before popping up. I was about exhausted after about an hour of stress paddling to catch waves.
THIS IS GOLD!
Hey guys, I am always clipping (touching) the traction pad with my behind foot outer side of the big toe during take off. After a few weeks this hurts a lot. Did you have the same problem with students so far?
JJF is catching a double up and you should always catch the first bump. If you catch the second bump you take a dive like Nat.
This is excellent.
Thanks!
I learnt a lot from this!
Great video. Thanks
🏴
kelly kind of does the oreo but also puts weight on the front of the board just before taking off.
Heaps of variations
Thank you! Brilliant
Thank you for watching
kool..everyone on shorter boards here where I am in the North East UK kicks to get into waves...I,ve seen a few kick when paddling out...).I always thought it looked a bit kooky but it seems to get them into waves..I was thinking about starting to do it myself but I might re-consider..
They never said “dont ever kick”. Pros kick when necessary. If you’re going to kick, do it at the right time and with control, not with legs flailing about (like in this video from the pool).
@@mcbudget kool..dont leave me hanging man..so when is the right time to kick?
@@middleagedshred In general if you're using a short board, you can kick as a last resort to create a bit more forward momentum once you feel the wave start to lift the board (i.e. the point at which you're no longer paddling to get into the right position but have started trying to "catch" the wave). The kick should not be a huge thrashing kick as this will destabilise the board and create drag.
Check out this video: th-cam.com/video/XYZ46bGfZ08/w-d-xo.html
Most of the pros kick a bit for added momentum into the wave, but the pop up is exactly as described in the Ombe video here (arched back, Oreo biscuit, looking down the line etc.). But many amateurs (including me) often use kicking as a way to compensate for not being in the best position to catch the wave, which ain't great. I think that's what they were getting at in this vid. Hope that helps!
Kicking on takeoff isn't about forward propulsion, it's about creating some added lift back there for added incline.
@@davidgough3512 I think it's likely to be both. If the tail lifts when kicking, then you get less drag through the water (like a boat sitting higher in the water), and therefore all else being equal your speed increases. What do you think about Clayton's idea in this video that downward pressure in the back half of the board is important to catch waves (he calls it the oreo biscuit).
Thank you!! A lot of details that I can't wait to use on the next swell.
Fantastic tutorials.