How To Take Your Pop Up From Slow To Pro

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ค. 2024
  • Are you stuck in your surfing progression? by getting your pop up to the next level you will be able to experience surfing from a whole different perspective. Let enjoyment kick in by improving your pop up.
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    0:00​ Intro
    0:50 Bad pop up
    8:16 Recap of pop up mistakes
    9:12​ How to fix it
    28:57 Recap of how to fix it
    31:13 Outro
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  • กีฬา

ความคิดเห็น • 228

  • @AidanMooreacoustic
    @AidanMooreacoustic 3 ปีที่แล้ว +193

    I think it's drilled into you from most youtube videos and lessons, how hard you should paddle, I was fascinated to hear about waiting for the wave before you paddle. I've always thought I had to start padding early to match the speed of the wave. But your comments on it made a lot more sense

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      So good to hear Aidan!

    • @andrewmillaralways
      @andrewmillaralways 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@ombesurf howzit chaps! Awesome vid. Thank you. I have a question for you ( and sorry I am late here) when taking off. Do I grab and hold the rails? Or place hand flat on the deck when pushing up? I couldn't zoom in close enough.
      Thanks guys keep up the good work and thanks agaian

    • @alina1005
      @alina1005 2 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      @@andrewmillaralways you place your hands flat on the board under your chest

    • @andrewmillaralways
      @andrewmillaralways 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@alina1005 thanks Alina

    • @jbei9981
      @jbei9981 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yes I thought the same thing based on the videos I've watched! This makes so much sense though.. mind blown

  • @MindSurf248
    @MindSurf248 ปีที่แล้ว +22

    Great advice, one thing I would say Clay misses out that i've found when trying to apply their advice and Kale Brock covers a bit more, is this is very positioning dependent. If you have found yourself too far on the shoulder you will have to paddle hard and potentially dip your nose to the board. If you are too deep, you will have to have your foot right back on the tail and be leaning right back. It's their perfect positioning that allows them to arch then pop almost without paddling.

    • @WEEBER13
      @WEEBER13 4 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      100% agree. I do think they need to talk more about positioning!

  • @bruhinthewild
    @bruhinthewild 3 ปีที่แล้ว +35

    Damn...this was better than expected. Been surfing all my life and now I learned something new.

    • @justinhevey5182
      @justinhevey5182 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      totally agree..

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks Ben!

    • @martinryan2570
      @martinryan2570 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@ombesurf I just watched this on Friday, went to the wavepool (Tullamarine) on Saturday morning. What an epiphany. This was so much easier and more relaxing than what I had been doing, and I had been doing it for a long time. It was like going to work the same way every day for ten years, then learning a short cut! I had a great surf on the intermediate setting. Thank you Clay and Anthony.

  • @Eddie-jr6bs
    @Eddie-jr6bs 2 ปีที่แล้ว +13

    Great format. Forty years of surfing and never broke it down like this. I’ve been a float and paddle surfer. Going to try for some no paddle take-offs. Awsome; thanks!

  • @jjmeier2052
    @jjmeier2052 2 ปีที่แล้ว +11

    Found myself on this video after taking a spill over the falls and not understanding what went wrong. Needed some rhyme or reason to this catastrophe and you gave me that peace. I under analyzed the situation afterward and blamed the wave for my shortcomings but here’s the story. Just surfed the first big swell of the winter in Southern California. About the same time last year I was surfing these bombs except on a longboard. Having transitioned from a step down, then finally a short board over the past year, I was feeling more confident than ever. Keep in mind I’m used to surfing grovel, and wave height topping out at 4 feet throughout the summer while getting to grips with this FireWire short board. In shear/pure excitement, on the very first wave I saw breaking towards me, I paddled straight at the top of the lip with no angel or proper positioning, arms and legs probably flailed about, and got obliterated over the falls on this 12-13 foot beast. Felt like I was slow motion in the air for like 30 seconds before I hit the water to then get rag dolled by Mother Nature. Was held under for about 15-20 seconds which felt like eternity. Everything was black and there was so much turmoil I could barely find the surface or get an idea of where I was. Popped back up to get slammed over and over by the incoming set. Felt like a nightmare and worse case scenario, no lifeguards out past the cliffs and my crew was still out the back. Paddled back out there tired and defeated but it was first wave so tried to not get nervous and shook it off to impress the mates, but it threw off my session and surfing mindset going forward. I got about 5 waves total and recovered nicely so the session was worth it but could’ve gotten more had I figured out how to fully relax. Taking my shot at these bigger waves was not a good move until I practiced more and studied some more techniques to apply in the water.
    Appreciate this video. It shows that wave selection, technique, positioning and timing are all crucial. For any new students of the game reading this, thinking about going out on bigger days and applying these take off principles, I suggest scoping out where the power is being drawn from like he says here, and mentally draw/map out your angels and takeoffs, or watching more experienced surfers take offs out in the lineup first before sending it or it could ruin a session and set back your psyche!
    Riding more powerful waves feels like a different animal but it’s the same beast, just more push/launch to it and room for error. That single wipeout taught me an invaluable lesson that you discuss in this video… stay calm and focused and feel the beefy energy of the wave, let it offer you a ride and accept it with smooth elegance. Disrespect it and try to slice through the very top of it with aggression and untrained technique and it shall destroy you, pat you on the head and say try again kook.

    • @tomservo493
      @tomservo493 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Epic comment.
      Stay stoked.

    • @Heartbuddha
      @Heartbuddha ปีที่แล้ว

      Great breakdown!

  • @khaidang6074
    @khaidang6074 2 ปีที่แล้ว +12

    Great advice! I am now able to make a huge improvement on my pop up. My intentional changes are to look down the line and slow down my paddling, and I'm able to catch more waves now. Thank you very much guys! Really helps. Hope you all have a fantastic New Year!

  • @safetybeachlife
    @safetybeachlife 2 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    I’ve been usin Chris Mills pop up training , and he introduced me to Oreo, and look where yo want to go. Then smooth walk up not lung/jump up.
    HUGE improvement.
    After 12 months out of the water due to back issues, then returning and absolutely struggling, I started changing all my basics, and I’m getting more waves per session, getting in smooth with less effort, and more importantly enjoying myself again.
    So Oreo ! Oreo! 👍👍👍

  • @familyfun731
    @familyfun731 3 ปีที่แล้ว +20

    Thanks guys, I had a "light bulb" moment on catching waves after 35 years of surfing. The "moment" was twofold. Firstly a wave is travelling faster than we can paddle. The best position to get up and plaining in most cases is the bottom part of the wave where the power is. The say the "devil is in the detail", I would rephrase this as the "light switch is in the detail". Thanks for going into the 'detail"

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you!

  • @thomasgarlinghouse1445
    @thomasgarlinghouse1445 3 ปีที่แล้ว +17

    This is surfing for surf geeks. Love it!

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      We are the biggest geeks

  • @ivanmarkovic608
    @ivanmarkovic608 3 ปีที่แล้ว +39

    Amazing tips. Can you guys do a video about longboard or mid length (7”6 / 8”) positions (bus stop) in the lineup and where to take a wave, pop-up and ideal lines? Thanks

    • @mtoto17
      @mtoto17 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Bus stop positions dont change with board size

  • @gdawwg1125
    @gdawwg1125 2 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    this video really heped me. i have been getting out less lately and my confidence has been going downhill big time. i find myself not catching any waves but getting tried from paddling like crazy all the time . And if i every did get in the right spot i would freak out and let the wave go. But today i just focussed on not paddling , i said to myself if i can't get on the wave without paddling like crazy let it go. then just focussed on getting in the right position and taking off. Well i got my wave of the year and my confidene instantly returned. thanks so much

    • @safetybeachlife
      @safetybeachlife 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      It only takes a couple and you’re back. Then you’re more confident, so you’ll get more waves. Then you get more confident. . .
      Feeds into itself .

  • @JahCoMusic
    @JahCoMusic 2 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    This was an interesting analysis. But I think they missed a key chance to point out hand position in the pop up. Look at the image of Kelly Slater they paused on at time 14:05 to 14:30. I am really surprised they didn't point out the position of his hands. His left hand is in front, under his pec, and his right hand is way back almost at his waist. This means that his shoulders are already turned in the direction he is going to go. We know we always have to lead with the shoulders and Kelly has that done before he even gets up. It is rare that surf movies include the pop up, but I found a clip that included Kelly's popup, I think in the September Sessions movie. I paused it and noticed his hands in this same position. I started incorporated that into my pop up back then, practicing it on the living room floor. This was probably the most significant change in my pop up in many years of surfing. It also helps you to look in the direction you want to go like they talk so much about in this video.

    • @MindSurf248
      @MindSurf248 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      There's some pretty good footage if different pros pop ups in Kelly slaters wave pool and they all do that slightly differently.

  • @johnnymaglaras7325
    @johnnymaglaras7325 3 ปีที่แล้ว +10

    This video was key to the improvement of my surfing, I've been riding a shortboard for about 6 months and have nailed the basics such as creating drive and performing turns but I went to the wave pool and my take-off was the element that let me down, video is so helpful. Cheers fellas keep up the work :)

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you Johnny, Glad it has helped you!

    • @anatta467
      @anatta467 ปีที่แล้ว

      wave pools are less boyant

  • @pashog
    @pashog 10 หลายเดือนก่อน +2

    I think you have best surf lessons on TH-cam. They are so easy to use on your own. Thank you very much

  • @Bumblybee4975
    @Bumblybee4975 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I've joined the Ombe program and I feel so hopeful and positive about getting back on a shortboard now. I had read so many things like you have to match the speed of the wave, and paddle super hard. I'm a petite female surfing very male dominated lineups so I told myself I just wasn't built for riding a shortboard, can't paddle fast enough or strong enough etc. I'm going to give it another crack after so many wipeouts getting flipped by the lip at the top of the wave. The Oreo biscuit has already improved my surfing on my mid length, I deliberately wait for that beautiful gliding feeling before I take another step. Think I'll do that a million times over before I move onto turns etc (the reason I went to Ombe to begin with!!)

  • @shantubesha
    @shantubesha 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    I took away from this was
    1 look where im want to go
    2 chin high on paddle
    3 coffee cup
    4 point and relax

  • @jasonofdaliessio3122
    @jasonofdaliessio3122 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Really great info. Made a difference in my surfing immediately (and I’ve been surfing for 30 years)!

  • @BerthaOverdrive
    @BerthaOverdrive 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    One of my favourite lessons you guys have done. The concepts apply to surfing, snowboarding and surfskating.
    The video footage, the drawing on the screen, the editing are so clear and well explained. Bravo.

    • @BerthaOverdrive
      @BerthaOverdrive 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      These concepts apply to body surfing and bodyboarding too.

  • @jedimindtricks63
    @jedimindtricks63 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    the actual "this what you are doing wrong" that I really needed !! thanks guys this is going to help so much !!

  • @crashmyzebra
    @crashmyzebra 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    So i tried this today inbetween surfs at the wave Bristol - the man talks sense....
    For ages i thought I had to be chin on board, it does help when taking off on a shallow wave, but muuuuch easier to take of in the steep section with an arched back. Cheers!

  • @mpower2386
    @mpower2386 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Nice, I learned on a board with not enough volume so I developped the habits of paddling like a mad man and lowering my head before the takeoff.. apparently im doing the exact wrong thing lol.. ill try to be more mindfull of my positioning, keep my chin up, feet down and look down the line. Great stuff

  • @coffeeconnoisseur6444
    @coffeeconnoisseur6444 ปีที่แล้ว

    Fantastic explanation, thank you! I was trying to explain this feeling to my wife the other day when I use a shorter board with a wider tail and felt the wave lift my tail up and launch me in. Seeing it explained like this is eye opening, I can’t wait to get back in the water and fix some of my mistakes!

  • @thibautmairesse1374
    @thibautmairesse1374 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Such a great video and analysis. Really like your comment about taking off at the bottom of the wave, which may feel like the scariest part! Gonna go and practice now! Please continue to share on this subject (i.e. wave entry in different kind of waves) 🤙

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Glad you enjoyed it!

  • @vinz9741
    @vinz9741 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I applied your advises on this morning session, swell was bigger than I feel comfortable in and yet I took more wave than usual.... Especially the 'feel the wave' and 'push the tail down' have helped me a lot. THANKS A LOT MAN I was one of those paddling super hard, with chin down and eyes looking down....🤦‍♂

  • @psalmsurfer1
    @psalmsurfer1 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    From the US east coast here..Only seen a few vids so far but appreciating the content..been primarily a BB'er my whole life but the drop in concepts are basically the same..now at 45yo looking to commit myself to stand up surfing again after a few half assed attempts over the years

  • @nacholens3228
    @nacholens3228 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    I’m starting to surf and these vids really help. Thank you so much!

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Happy to help!

  • @BodePi360
    @BodePi360 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    This video was a game changer for me. I'm surfing about a year now and to me was very difficult to find where to start paddle and where I have to focus when start to paddle. I watch this video 3 months ago and my surf have totally change for better. Thank you very much for this content, go on boys.

  • @donovanvanputten1276
    @donovanvanputten1276 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    Love it! Great collection of golden nuggets to help think about the basics. Cheers gents.

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Cheers man!

  • @martinryan2570
    @martinryan2570 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Last week I dropped a comment regarding my vastly improved experience in the wavepool implementing these tips. A few days ago I went for a surf in the ocean. Beautiful 3-4' swell, offshore wind, autumn reef break in Torquay. I did my best to use these tips again and a rough estimate would be that I doubled my wave count with less effort and stress. I really felt so much more connected to the ocean. Thank you Clayton and Anthony!

  • @jhchnc
    @jhchnc 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Epic breakdown. Thank you!

  • @gonzalodiaz9878
    @gonzalodiaz9878 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Great video. Really detailed and helpful. I’ll do my best to implement this

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      It will be a game changer!

  • @caby9311
    @caby9311 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks guys surfed like 45 years ago and haven't been much for years unfit have problems getting up need to do some push-ups lol but I should get up easier next time thanks.

  • @danieljwinn
    @danieljwinn 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Love this video guys keep em coming

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      We will Daniel! Thanks!

  • @daltonstull1790
    @daltonstull1790 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Trying to teach myself at 31. So many points that i know it would have taken me years to figure out. Much love

  • @roskabay7883
    @roskabay7883 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I feel like I need to watch this weekly and then every time before I go surfing because I swear I forget all of these great tips as soon as I get in the water

  • @Cuisinenomade1
    @Cuisinenomade1 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    It is good reminder to see this video again, thanks!

  • @agniyogabyinessa
    @agniyogabyinessa 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

    WOW! This is best pop up tutorial! Cant wait to apply this knowledge in the ocean later today. Thank you guys

  • @sylvain1865
    @sylvain1865 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Amazing!!!
    Thx so much for this lesson guys

  • @davidsolvincent9511
    @davidsolvincent9511 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Superb breakdown thank you!

  • @alberherrero
    @alberherrero 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    This videos is awesome. It gave me a few basic tips. I will stop kicking on my popups

  • @boltup5566
    @boltup5566 3 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    Keep your legs together too. Those wavegarden people who pearled all had their legs spread open.

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Good one

  • @Surfeurfou974
    @Surfeurfou974 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    incredibly good analysis

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you so much!

  • @richardbunney2928
    @richardbunney2928 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great video. Thanks
    🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿

  • @suffolkdutch7797
    @suffolkdutch7797 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Third time I've watched this vid and it seems so obvious but only once its been pointed out. This is definitely the best channel for good surfing advice 👍

  • @stephenholloway7825
    @stephenholloway7825 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    I’ve watched this 3 times now
    Plenty of gold nuggets !
    I’m out at the pool this weekend
    I definitely give these a try
    Thanks again

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Good luck!

  • @neenish17
    @neenish17 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    The advice in this video is great, although would be great to see some dry land demonstration of Claytons pop up technique, would be helpful for those of us having trouble with the mechanics of getting up effectively/consistently.

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hey Kat, All those demos you get in the accelerated surf program here: ombe.co/your-programs/

  • @armandoa1266
    @armandoa1266 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Great teachers thanks for the lesson 🤙🏾

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Our pleasure! Thanks Armando!

  • @nanotazza
    @nanotazza ปีที่แล้ว

    THIS IS GOLD!

  • @timahicks
    @timahicks 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Have you guys done an episode on pop up/paddling into waves for big guy/ heavy surfers? I’m built like a linebacker, 6’1”, 235(COVID LOL-usually 225) wide shoulders, muscular.., BUT I LOVE TO SURF!! I’ve been surging for 25 years and crave more tips/Vids for bigger guys who are built for football but inside are soul surfers.

  • @parkkkk1
    @parkkkk1 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Could you please make a video about taking off on a wave but angling your board?
    Thanks so much for the videos so far, learning heaps!

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi there, Would you be able to place you idea here? -> ombe.co/roadmap. Thanks!

  • @kostasgoulas3625
    @kostasgoulas3625 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    this coach really have knowledge

  • @ahamilton1305
    @ahamilton1305 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Brilliant teaching

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Many thanks

  • @BigZ_4i20
    @BigZ_4i20 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Amazing content!

  • @joeblow2183
    @joeblow2183 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    This is excellent.

  • @kiwisurfer71
    @kiwisurfer71 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Good little vid, some golden nuggets in there 🤙

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks!

  • @mikec3369
    @mikec3369 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Have been working last 6-12 months on a more rapid and efficient popup. I’m a former body boarder. OMBE advice has been so amazingly helpful. Practising on land doesn’t work (at least for me). Instead focus more on advice re openness to falling. You’ll naturally force yourself to quickly adjust centre of gravity through a wider range of forward movements on wave. Instead of thinking ‘pop up’, it’s more like ‘plant’ (hands) and ‘expand’ (vertically) in to the space you’ve created by moving your center of gravity over the face of the wave / angular direction. As I do this I think ‘look’ to get that laser focus on where I want to go. Like I was reminded recently in the water, slower pop ups mean air board in contact with more water (resistance), ie. making any type of manipulation by the rider much more difficult! It’s far easier to push down just as the wave takes you, thereby creating that ‘expand’ window to simply (eventually!) move in to. So, yeah, timing is a big part of this too.

  • @2952914
    @2952914 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    What do you say is the purpose for coffee cup arms for the right hand ? ? ? What I think masons doing is controlling the board with his right leg just in case he needs to stall to avoid hitting the rocks.

  • @VentureOutNow
    @VentureOutNow ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey guys, I am always clipping (touching) the traction pad with my behind foot outer side of the big toe during take off. After a few weeks this hurts a lot. Did you have the same problem with students so far?

  • @jetsanjose
    @jetsanjose 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    This video really helps me a lot to improve.. Thanks from the Philippines🇵🇭

  • @AntonioSanchez-gk5el
    @AntonioSanchez-gk5el 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Amazing content!!!
    Thanks

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Our pleasure Antonio!

  • @amp7816
    @amp7816 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Best technique analysis I’ve seen.

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you so much Adrian!

  • @robayre482
    @robayre482 ปีที่แล้ว

    I learnt a lot from this!

  • @PakWooju
    @PakWooju ปีที่แล้ว

    Best teacher ever!!

  • @evancrown5657
    @evancrown5657 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Fantastic tutorials.

  • @pete3773
    @pete3773 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    The Takeoff Twins! 😂

  • @johnhudson5414
    @johnhudson5414 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    If the swell is short and weak so that it doesn't pick you up easily should you then paddle more?

  • @christophergruenwald5054
    @christophergruenwald5054 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I took a surf lesson earlier this year. The waves were low energy, 1-2 ft perfect for a beginner like myself. I managed to make 50% or more, but my instructor had me paddling like a mad man for a good 10 seconds maybe longer in the flat before popping up. Was that correct given the conditions or no? I was on a 10ft foamy. I was a lifeguard in HS and am still a strong swimmer. I felt like I paddled half way to shore before popping up. I was about exhausted after about an hour of stress paddling to catch waves.

  • @kimperry2199
    @kimperry2199 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    I have a question- I'm stepping down form long boarding. I often find I'm pearling on shorter boards (6'6-7). I think what's happening is the back of the board is being picked up like the guys around 3:43 on the video. I'm wondering if board length/volume is too much for me. As a woman, I have less weight in my shoulders and when I raise my shoulders and head, it seems to have less effect on the back of the board. Do you have any tips for this? Should I be thinking about a specific type of board for this situation? Thanks!

    • @surfershaper
      @surfershaper ปีที่แล้ว

      If you're still having issues with this, don't drop straight in. Get some angle initiated to the wave before you hit your feet. Reaction time is also critical.

  • @mikrowave123180
    @mikrowave123180 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    great info for a new surfer

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Glad you liked it!

  • @dizzyfour2
    @dizzyfour2 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    I used the Oreo Biscuit just a few days ago, it works amazingly! So easy to catch waves.

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thats so good to hear!

    • @TenTXtreme
      @TenTXtreme 2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      I've been using this technique without me knowing it, my friends always call me a lazy paddler. If you just push your tail down right in the bottom of the wave and then paddle twice you will just fly into the wave haha.

    • @donnamoore-sturgill6909
      @donnamoore-sturgill6909 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@TenTXtreme I can relate! This seems a lot like what I do to survive the banger waves at our harbor. I always thought it was because 'I' was a lazy paddler because at other breaks people are paddling away & I'm like THAT'S too much work 😂

  • @vuknuk
    @vuknuk 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    this is gold 🤟

  • @NK-vw4ms
    @NK-vw4ms ปีที่แล้ว

    Came across this video after an intense nose dive session. Thought my problem was not paddling enough but turns out I might have been over paddling!

  • @wessmithp5560
    @wessmithp5560 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Revenge of the nerds. Most detailed and thus awesome analysis on earth. #StrongWorkYo

  • @sladestreet6086
    @sladestreet6086 ปีที่แล้ว

    you guys need a donation option. These videos have helped me IMMENSELY!!

  • @matnardone5529
    @matnardone5529 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    one thing I wondered about....esp on steeper later waves, on takeoff I try to breathe out or at least not hold my breath and stiffen my torso. like the breakdown of taking off closer to the bottom and getting lift, i have to fix that

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Keep on trucking Mat!

  • @arnaudtrotignon8536
    @arnaudtrotignon8536 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hiii guys, first i want to tell you that you make a really good job, i follow you and i also subscribed for lessons in internet. I'm french so sorry for the wrong grammar. I had a question no one seem's to answer but it look like my biggest problem during the take off. It's like despite following the all rules, i'm feeling heavy and i can't really raise (pop)so easily than you. So my question is why you didn't make a video about muscles involved in the take off ? Some people speak about the lower part of the back and the quadriceps and also the core to really raise up fast and easily but the transfert of energy stay confusing for me....i can see that the arms, chests and pectorals are not involved that much because when you lift your upper body you can and need to stay a little arch ( so without momentum made by the push up ), and the talk about the importance of the lower part of the body sound underestimate to me. What do you think about it ?
    Thanks a lot for your great job

  • @jaymoriarity2498
    @jaymoriarity2498 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thx!!

  • @dornelli1
    @dornelli1 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    when i surfed in a spot here in brazil i noticed a mate who would not even paddle, and instead all he did was lift the nose of the board, creating some sort of tension/jump, and then he would engage with the wave and surf it, to my disbelief

  • @henriquek.7355
    @henriquek.7355 2 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Hey Clayton and Anthony, thanks for sharing this! I went surfing yesterday and tried the Oreo Biscuit tip and it definitely helped me. Something just “clicked” for me and my experience was better and more effortless.
    Quick question though: a lot of coaches say that you have to lower your chin just before the pop-up. How do you fit this with the standing position of the Oreo Biscuit? First you arch your back and as soon as you feel the glide you lower the chin and pop-up?
    Anyways, thanks! It was really helpful

    • @MarkSchelbergen
      @MarkSchelbergen 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I had the same thought. I would say a late take off like john john's doesn't need lowering the head. Though you see Kelly is doing it briefly on his wave which allows him to hardly paddle. Wouldn't it be a very useful technique when waves are less perfect or you're slightly out of position in order to to give you just that little extra speed of to match that of the wave when gliding?

    • @MarkSchelbergen
      @MarkSchelbergen 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      th-cam.com/video/LQ-TfdXKu1I/w-d-xo.html this guy's explaining it here

  • @WEEBER13
    @WEEBER13 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Great video analysis guys! Really appreciate the breakdown and tips! Something I've been wondering about recently is whether or not experienced surfers push their board forward with their hands slightly on take off? Or even the reverse (pushing back)? Maybe there's a simple answer to this? Or maybe there could be more content focus in this area? Maybe no one does it...

  • @paulbeddow4076
    @paulbeddow4076 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Have they surfed the wave pool there is a massive drag of water pulling you back,like water being pulled off a shallow reef

  • @HeyLookWhatICanDo
    @HeyLookWhatICanDo 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Dr. Gnar dropping knowledge

  • @eryberto87
    @eryberto87 ปีที่แล้ว

    Could you please share a link of what you mentioned at 5:21?

  • @stevencole7331
    @stevencole7331 ปีที่แล้ว

    That has always been my biggest problem staying on the inside and paddle out to catch a wave . The reason for me is many times it's a quick snap up with no momentum from paddling and getting myself in good position on the board . This definitely limits me and when surfing is a more and more a crowded lineup opportunity doesn't knock very much with guys around who are very athletic advanced surfers . 5 advanced guys in a crowded lineup can get 90 percent of the waves as they don't hesitate and many times have less fear than the general population

  • @alexrodriguez8767
    @alexrodriguez8767 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you!! A lot of details that I can't wait to use on the next swell.

  • @ghosttv465
    @ghosttv465 ปีที่แล้ว

    this guy knows his jazz 🤙🏻

  • @dornelli1
    @dornelli1 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    some are good, some are very good, some some win championships but what sets people apart, like Slater, Robertinho of the Brazilian soccer team (2002), Michael Phelps, Michael jordan, Leonel Messi and John John Florence, is the abilty to understand the game and get that extra advantage over other great ones

  • @kylewattssurfing3266
    @kylewattssurfing3266 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Awesomeness yes awesome...

  • @johnthr33
    @johnthr33 ปีที่แล้ว

    Good video the info is slowly sinking in, the more I watch these kind of video the more sense they make in theory anyway

  • @shantubesha
    @shantubesha 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Cant wait till tomorrow to try the coffee cup

  • @chrro466
    @chrro466 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    So I was hoping for a lesson in how to position and catch a wave like Kelly’s with two easy strokes! And then I realised with Masons wave example you still have to paddle your lungs out as no wave is the same unless you’re in a wave pool 🤷🏻‍♂️

  • @viniciusromolosilva4709
    @viniciusromolosilva4709 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    so good

  • @aTribeCalledCasey
    @aTribeCalledCasey 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Interesting.... in landscaping a natural slope will only sustain itself in a 1:1 ration aka 45• aka the point the wave will cause you to “landslide”🤔🤔🤔

  • @kylewattssurfing3266
    @kylewattssurfing3266 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Awesomeness cooool yeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaahhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!

  • @bsmbB
    @bsmbB 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Haha Mason surfing my home break. The crazy thing is you can sit at an even deeper peak and get some of the craziest barrels on earth. Mason's actually sitting at the middle peak you need to sit about 50 feet deeper

  • @corettamundo
    @corettamundo 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Dude on 7:08 just failed the popup and had his front foot off center I think. Difficult to recover. Buts not the I look left so I go left situation, don't u think?
    Thanks for the vid. Great content

    • @ombesurf
      @ombesurf  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you! Not sure what you mean in your question.

    • @corettamundo
      @corettamundo 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@ombesurf i meant i think he just messed up the take off and went left because of the off-center foot position.

    • @MindSurf248
      @MindSurf248 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@corettamundo Just looked I think a big part of the reason he messed up his foot placement is because his whole body language was facing the guy he wanted to miss during the pop up

  • @sethheinzman5823
    @sethheinzman5823 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I was at cocoa beach surfing and sucking like usual and an old guy paddles next to me turns around and floats up to the top of a wave and stands and then continues to ride it. Man did not paddle in on a single wave it was insane.

  • @toms6564
    @toms6564 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    JJs wave is kind of a double up. He is paddling for the energy of the first, smaller wave which is some earlier energy than the second.

  • @Unwavering137
    @Unwavering137 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Makes me want to sip a coffee.

  • @sladestreet6086
    @sladestreet6086 ปีที่แล้ว

    Make a video on bailing your board and getting under a 5' wave at Blacks. i DONT know how they do it.