I read on some forum that after this job, you should leave the engine at least 30 minutes before cranking the engine. Something about the compression between the pistons and the valves? Didn't seem to make much sense, but doesn't hurt to ask here.
Yeah, sounds like a good idea. Not sure the reasons for it, I did let it rest for a while, to let the silicone on the valve cover gasket dry so I didn’t have any issues.
I don't know if you did this, but you should soak the lifters in oil the night before you replace the old ones. I also suggest that when you button everything up, leave the plugs out and turn the engine over with a socket wrench on the crank, if you didn't time the cams correctly, this is your chance to find out if your pistons are hitting the valves. If everything is good to go, leave the plugs out and turn the engine over for short amounts of time. This will pump up the cam chain tensioner and supply oil to the lifters and cams. This will help with initial startup, and you won't get that lifter tick due to a sagging chain.
Thanks for sharing video. It was explained well, feel confident fix. However my car is 2000 audi 1.8T, will video be same for my car. Thanking you for a job well done.
I would imagine it would be the same because it's a pretty common engine between the Audis and VWs from the late 90's-early 00's, however my video is on a 1.8T engine with the AMB engine stamp.
There’s a sharp ticking sound coming from the top end of the engine, I figured it had to be a lifter, but even after replacing all of them it still ticks the same. It only ticks at 1200 RPM and higher, idling it’s quite. Still not sure where it’s coming from but I definitely tracked it to the top end near the exhaust cam when listening with a stethoscope.
Quick question for The bolt underniether the cam sensor that holds the interuptor is place. Does that bolt into the cam itself? And if so when its taken out does the cam itself drop down a little? I gotta change out my interuptor and cam sensor but i dont know if i need to take valve cover off for the cam or not to get that bolt back in after replacing the interuptor. I just got replacing all my gaskets last month and would rather not have to tear them all out if i dont have too.
What about the rubber o rings in the valves when they get old oil come up to the lifters,so I get this feeling that the job is not done right if oil is going up the lifters, You need valves o rings ! And that's a bigger job, blessings
I read on some forum that after this job, you should leave the engine at least 30 minutes before cranking the engine. Something about the compression between the pistons and the valves? Didn't seem to make much sense, but doesn't hurt to ask here.
Yeah, sounds like a good idea. Not sure the reasons for it, I did let it rest for a while, to let the silicone on the valve cover gasket dry so I didn’t have any issues.
I don't know if you did this, but you should soak the lifters in oil the night before you replace the old ones. I also suggest that when you button everything up, leave the plugs out and turn the engine over with a socket wrench on the crank, if you didn't time the cams correctly, this is your chance to find out if your pistons are hitting the valves. If everything is good to go, leave the plugs out and turn the engine over for short amounts of time. This will pump up the cam chain tensioner and supply oil to the lifters and cams. This will help with initial startup, and you won't get that lifter tick due to a sagging chain.
Thanks for sharing video.
It was explained well, feel confident fix. However my car is 2000 audi 1.8T, will video be same for my car.
Thanking you for a job well done.
I would imagine it would be the same because it's a pretty common engine between the Audis and VWs from the late 90's-early 00's, however my video is on a 1.8T engine with the AMB engine stamp.
Great video 👍what led you to need to replace the lifters? I’ve had several 1.8 Audis and I thought it was rare that anything internally fails
Never mind I see your exhaust side that you said was stuck - I guess you had it running rough and narrowed it to this?
There’s a sharp ticking sound coming from the top end of the engine, I figured it had to be a lifter, but even after replacing all of them it still ticks the same. It only ticks at 1200 RPM and higher, idling it’s quite. Still not sure where it’s coming from but I definitely tracked it to the top end near the exhaust cam when listening with a stethoscope.
@@stuiesgarage please update me when you find the issue. I'm on the same issue myself.
@@stuiesgarage did you ever find the source of the ticking?
No, and it still runs fine. Been ticking for about 45K miles! @@OdellsKippah
Quick question for The bolt underniether the cam sensor that holds the interuptor is place. Does that bolt into the cam itself? And if so when its taken out does the cam itself drop down a little? I gotta change out my interuptor and cam sensor but i dont know if i need to take valve cover off for the cam or not to get that bolt back in after replacing the interuptor. I just got replacing all my gaskets last month and would rather not have to tear them all out if i dont have too.
From what I remember, yes, that bolt threads into the cam shaft.
@@stuiesgarage does the cam drop down a little when that bolts removed or should it stay in place?
What about the rubber o rings in the valves when they get old oil come up to the lifters,so I get this feeling that the job is not done right if oil is going up the lifters, You need valves o rings ! And that's a bigger job, blessings
I gotta do this soon to install stage 2 cams on it
Dont you need to put cylinder 1 in tdc and then remove the time tensioner ?
Yes
Where did you get the cam from
It came with the car
?
Great
i have problem to put timing belt back on x) now im like "wtf i did wrong"
It can be kind of tricky