Amazing series Jon, im in the middle of rebuilding my RF45 clone gearbox and i can confidently state this video series is THE master reference on the Internet for this process. No way i would have got the shaft order correct without the hard yards you did!
Also if u get more noise developing check out the keyway on the sliding gear shaft closest to motor shaft. Its a common issue that the 5x50 keyway gets flogged out (mine was)
Your video helped me a lot. My milling machine is the same as yours what happened when I switched the motor on and clicked the gears the motor was running but none of the gears were turning so the head wasn’t turning so I thought that the key fell out of the motor shaft but no it was still connected so then I thought that the key fell out of one of gears so I started to lift the lid to look into the gear box but it was too much for me it was like opening a can of worms. The bloke who sold the machine to me said it was still under warranty it is only 6 months old so I boxed it up and sent it back to him. So he is sending me a new Precision Matthew’s PM 728 Mill which should arrive in a couple of days. Thank you for sharing with us your videos it was very helpful. Cheers Doug from Australia.
It just shows what a huge difference careful assembly by skilled hands can make. Imagine the price if they came from the factory with that level of preparation. It's a good machine now John. Dean.
Hi Dean, thanks for the comment. You're right, it also shows that the rest of the machining on these things is actually to a fairly decent standard, and they throw it all away at the dressing and assembly point. Certainly skilled at inserting and removing gear shafts now if nothing else (those things were in and out more times than a pensioners leg at a Hokey-Cokey convention)! Cheers, Jon
Hi Paul, thanks for the comment. I really hope so, as that would make me very happy indeed. I take great pleasure from sharing knowledge and helping others which is why I set up the channel in the first place. Cheers, Jon
Only just binge watched this....it is truly gratifying to see you show bearings so much respect when installing....brilliant work and cleanliness...thank you for sharing 👌👍
Hi Ancient Traveller, thanks for the comment and feedback. I guess because I am not on production, I can take that bit longer to be as mechanically sympathetic as possible. Cleanliness is a must on jobs like this. Cheers, Jon
Great result Jon glad the tolerances are within your standards. Thumbs up with the new to me lost motion reference. Looking forward to seeing the mill in action again. Aluminium baking foil for your future custom funnel builds lol. Tony
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment. Kinematic numbers are almost where I would want them to be, could always be better but I need to remember what I am playing with here, no point trying to make it into something it isn't. The lost motion check is probably one of the best indicators of spindle bearing adjustment / wear etc and is universal across all machines (horizontal spindles need a bit more care due to effects of gravity). Lol, I actually considered foil for the funnel, but in every "think through" it ended in disaster! Cheers, Jon
i tuoi video su questa macchina mi sono stati di grande aiuto. Stavo per acquistarne una identica ma visto l'enorme lavoro che hai dovuto adesso ho molte perplessità. Comunque complimenti per la serie di video. Bravo!
Hi Nigel, thanks for the comment. Glad you enjoyed it. I am pleased yes, I have got some reasonable numbers on the geometry and it sounds and feels a lot better. More importantly, I know its clean in there now so it should last a lot longer. Cheers, Jon
Hi PJ, thanks for the comment and feedback. Glad you are finding it useful. If you look back at some of my earlier videos, I also show strip down and rebuild of the bottom end (assuming you haven't already seen them). Cheers, Jon
That was a brilliant series and I'm sure will serve as a great reference for others. Well done. You'll enjoy using it much more now you know its right.
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment. I have enjoyed it (well most of it). Yes, I really hope others get value out of it as that will make me very happy. Its comforting to know it is all clean and as well built as it can be. Cheers, Jon
Great job you have done there Jon ....helped me a lot ...on the next month i am getting the Cormak ZX7055 ...and i am a bit anxious 'cause i don't know what i will meet on this mill ....no much infos about it out there ....Thanks !
Hi Kostas, welcome to the channel, and thanks for the comment. You will find pretty much the same stuff as I have, they are all built to the same standard. If you go back and look at some of my earlier videos, you will see a full strip down of the table (X & Y), hopefully you will find them useful. Cheers, Jon
Jon, Enjoyed the whole series - thank you, I have learned a great deal. Good luck with the channel. Looking forward to future projects. Thank for the advice on the bandsaw. Mitch
Hi Mitch, thanks for the comment. Glad you enjoyed the series and are enjoying the channel. Not sure what it was like up where you are, but we had our Summer today in southern Scotland, good job it was at the weekend this year! Cheers, Jon
Jon I've just started watching thanks to DB and ABE's pointing in your direction. I decided to watch one of more recent ones 1st then went back to the beginning so glad I have then worked my way through and will continue to do so. To see how you struggled with crap camera, sound and minimal gear but wealth or knowledge and experience behind you shows how it can be achieved by many. This series on the mill is scary for all Asian made units as 99% come out the same factories no matter the brand or country where they are sold from. I have a HM-48 and have my concerns even though this machine was a floor demo model and the people I dealt with will have done their best to make it as good as they can. Keep up the good presentations.
Hi Glyn, thanks for the comment and I am glad that you enjoyed the series. If you have learnt some stuff, I have achieved my objectives..... Lol. Cheers, Jon
Very nice walkthrough of the process. I just finished cleaning an used one. It was full of chips and grease in the wrong places. Only concern to me is the quill gear and low-high speed gear. They are way above the sight glass level. I don't know if they are lubricated by splashing, but when i opened the top, they were pretty dry....
A good series to watch. Would be interesting to know if anyone from Cormak has watched and if they’ve any comments on the things you’ve found about the quality of their manufacturing ...
Hi Phil, thanks for the comment. Cormak know about my channel because I sent them a link and I know they watched the Bandsaw videos as they gave me feedback. I suspect even if they watched the mill videos, they would not get in contact. I did tip them off I would be doing a full review and asked them to send me a good one....... Read into that what you will! Cheers, Jon
At last it's finished, well it is for now😉, now you can get back to work.👍 But, oh dear Grasshopper did no one ever tell you how to pour oil from a can? 😢
Hello Master, thank you for your feedback. I am most humble, I had been taught to tip the can on its side but in my excitement, I clean forgot! As I have always said, to not know and get it wrong is excusable, to know and still get it wrong is criminal! On the plus side, I didn't spill or splash a drop (which I am pleased about because that gallon cost £13)!! On another plus note, my homemade midget enema kit worked really well. Cheers, Jon
Hi Kevin, thanks for the comment and feedback. Just subbed, still trying to catch up with all the new arrivals following a couple of recent shout outs. Cheers, Jon
Jon I really enjoyed the series! it just too bad you had to do all of that work to a new machine! Looking forward to the next video to see how it works under load!
Hi Phil, thanks for the comment. Glad to hear you enjoyed the series. I kind of knew when I bought the machine it was going to need this (there is a good reason they are cheap). Its also good because I have taken it all to bits and touched every part so I now know what it's made of, and how, which is useful to help get the best out of it (kind of know what it's weak points and limitations are). Cheers, Jon
Hi Max, thanks for the comment, they are all pretty similar inside so this should be a useful reference. I couldn't find anything really detailed on YT so went step by step on this in the hopes It helps others. Cheers, Jon
That has been an interesting series, both informative and entertaining and very worthwhile.so when the budget allows will there be a DRO installation ? And maybe a home made power feed ? .in the meantime thanks and looking forward to the first project with the New mill.
Hi Steve, thanks for the comment and feedback. You are bang on, a DRO is a definite and power feed a maybe. As you say, I need to let my funds recover a bit, certainly blown some cash since April when I started it all. Glad you enjoyed it. Cheers, Jon
Hi Fred, thanks for the comment, just found your channel and subbed (catching up with what you have been up to)! If you fancy doing a sticker swap, drop me an email at Jons.workshop@aol.com Cheers, Jon
Nice one Jon, I have enjoyed this series. Good to see your mill up and running again. 👍🏻 It is just a shame you have had to do all this to a new machine. All in all would you still recommend this make of machine to another potential buyer or knowing what you know now would you have gone for a different option yourself ? Am looking fwd to your next projects. Take care Jon 👍🏻 Regards Tony
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment and feedback. Its 6 of one and half a dozen of the other really, any Asian import mill would benefit from the same level of work so the brand almost becomes irrelevant (they are all pretty much the same). I look at it like this, I paid £1700 for it including the stand and delivery (Dick Turpin would be proud of that), and I have spent £100 on bearings and £6 on oil, so £1806 all up. If I bought a used Bridgeport for the same money it would be absolutely knackered and probably need another £2k spending on it to make it useable, and probably more hours of graft. I would have preferred the Bridgeport but the savings I made paid for my lathe. Its a no brainer really for a home shop, just got to be prepared to roll your sleeves up. Hope this helps answer your question. Thanks for the support. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, thanks for your reply. Yep it seems to me like you got a really good deal there. After putting in a little extra time and small amount of cash you have ended up with a nice machine. It looks to be a pretty solid tool too ! Happy machining, Regards Tony 👍🏻
Very good end result Jon!It must feel good that you have done everything possible ! Is your lathe motor close to the max(2.2 kW)of the static converter?And if so is it coping well?Robert
Hi Robert, thanks for the comment. I am pleased with it now and I hope that you will find it useful information. My Lathe has a 2.2kW motor so right on the limit. It copes OK but it is all a bit of a compromise. The transformer is designed for a, static load like a compressor or a generator etc, the lathe is dynamic as each cut will draw a different amount of power. I have found the best setting (number 4) and work round the compromise. It does pretty well really. You will probably need some help setting yours up for the mill as you will need to alter some settings inside the unit, let me know when you get to this point and I will give you the info I got from Power Capacitors. Cheers, Jon
G'day Jon and greetings from Tasmania Australia, one question I have, my mill is a HM 46 very similar to yours, do you have problems shifting the levers for Hi & Lo and speed, mine are very tight and hard to move. I have subscribed to your channel kind regards John
Hi John, thanks for the comment and subscription, much appreciated. Can't believe my humble little channel has made it that far round the world, I am honoured. In answer to your question, they were both very stiff as new, they are much better following the clean up work (but still a bit stiff). Having seen the detent arrangement on the shafts, I am confident they will slacken more with use (the spring that holds the ball bearing into the detent positions is quite strong). Hope this helps and thanks again for your support and interest. Cheers, Jon
Hi Simon, thanks for the comment. They wouldn't respond probably and if they did it would be to say that the machine was functioning as intended (which is true). All resellers are the same regardless of name. There is a reason they are cheap and this is it. I was fully aware when purchasing this would probably be how it went, I treat it as a kit of parts, that with incremental improvements will become better etc. Cheers, Jon
Hi Greg, thanks for the comment. If I was in the market for another Chinese machine, Cormak are as good as any of the other importers. You need to be prepared that you are buying a kit of parts (from any of them) that will need significant work to make it half decent. They get the first 80% of the manufacture done not too bad, and then throw it all away on the last 20 through lack of cleaning, de-burring, and fitting crap bearings, all the Chinese import stuff is the same. Cheers, Jon
Hi Clive, thanks for the comment. Glad you found it useful and inspiring. The bearings cost about £100 with delivery all in. Well worth the upgrade for the difference it has made. Cheers, Jon
Is this the same machine with blue white red livery or a better quality version for western market? wanna get one for myself since its not too small not too big should be able to big surfacing work if i use a fly cutter with long swing?
Hi woo zhi, thanks for the comment. It is exactly the same machine, just re-branded. My personal opinion is that you may struggle with a big fly cutter, mine struggles with a small one! This is due to the gears in the head being plain spur gears with lots of backlash (clearance) meaning with an interrupted cut, the head is very noisy and this translates through the spindle affecting surface finish. I think you would be better with a direct drive model for your application. Hope this helps. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop Thank you for the reply and your experience with this machine .Would it be okay if i run the spindle slow and with a low gear that is torqy or just fix the backlash,but i would be running it slow anyway unless its a finishing or i have to get it done quick?
Hi woo zhi, running slow will help. You won't be able to remove the clearance between the gears as there is no adjustment in the head. Success will really depend on the material type you plan to cut and the depth of cut, very light skims (shallow cuts, 0.2mm) on soft materials will be OK probably. Don't expect to be taking 1mm depth of cut on steel with a big fly cutter, it won't be a good result. Hope this helps. Cheers, Jon
Hi Steve, thanks for the comment. Good question. I am sure normal 10W 40 would be OK, but the gallon of ISO 32 cost £13 and that will do two fills so will probably last a couple of years or so. After all the effort and hard work, saving 3 or 4 quid by not putting the recommended grade oil in just seems a bit foolish (and that is coming from someone who is tighter than 2 coats of paint.... Lol). Cheers, Jon
Amazing series Jon, im in the middle of rebuilding my RF45 clone gearbox and i can confidently state this video series is THE master reference on the Internet for this process. No way i would have got the shaft order correct without the hard yards you did!
Thanks Tim, glad it was helpful 😀
Also if u get more noise developing check out the keyway on the sliding gear shaft closest to motor shaft. Its a common issue that the 5x50 keyway gets flogged out (mine was)
Your video helped me a lot. My milling machine is the same as yours what happened when I switched the motor on and clicked the gears the motor was running but none of the gears were turning so the head wasn’t turning so I thought that the key fell out of the motor shaft but no it was still connected so then I thought that the key fell out of one of gears so I started to lift the lid to look into the gear box but it was too much for me it was like opening a can of worms. The bloke who sold the machine to me said it was still under warranty it is only 6 months old so I boxed it up and sent it back to him. So he is sending me a new Precision Matthew’s PM 728 Mill which should arrive in a couple of days. Thank you for sharing with us your videos it was very helpful. Cheers Doug from Australia.
Hi Doug, thanks for the comment, it's certainly not a well designed gearbox for easy maintenance. Sounds like you did the right thing. Cheers, Jon
It just shows what a huge difference careful assembly by skilled hands can make. Imagine the price if they came from the factory with that level of preparation. It's a good machine now John. Dean.
Hi Dean, thanks for the comment. You're right, it also shows that the rest of the machining on these things is actually to a fairly decent standard, and they throw it all away at the dressing and assembly point. Certainly skilled at inserting and removing gear shafts now if nothing else (those things were in and out more times than a pensioners leg at a Hokey-Cokey convention)! Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon,
A very good series... I am sure this will be watched by many in years to come... Well done.
Take care
Paul,,
Hi Paul, thanks for the comment. I really hope so, as that would make me very happy indeed. I take great pleasure from sharing knowledge and helping others which is why I set up the channel in the first place. Cheers, Jon
Only just binge watched this....it is truly gratifying to see you show bearings so much respect when installing....brilliant work and cleanliness...thank you for sharing 👌👍
Hi Ancient Traveller, thanks for the comment and feedback. I guess because I am not on production, I can take that bit longer to be as mechanically sympathetic as possible. Cleanliness is a must on jobs like this. Cheers, Jon
GOOD TO SEE IT RUNNING AGEN JON,,NICE MACHINE NOW. REGARDS RICHARD.
Hi Richard, thanks for the comment and feedback. I hope so, true test will be getting a cut on of course. Cheers, Jon
Great result Jon glad the tolerances are within your standards. Thumbs up with the new to me lost motion reference.
Looking forward to seeing the mill in action again. Aluminium baking foil for your future custom funnel builds lol. Tony
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment. Kinematic numbers are almost where I would want them to be, could always be better but I need to remember what I am playing with here, no point trying to make it into something it isn't. The lost motion check is probably one of the best indicators of spindle bearing adjustment / wear etc and is universal across all machines (horizontal spindles need a bit more care due to effects of gravity). Lol, I actually considered foil for the funnel, but in every "think through" it ended in disaster! Cheers, Jon
i tuoi video su questa macchina mi sono stati di grande aiuto. Stavo per acquistarne una identica ma visto l'enorme lavoro che hai dovuto adesso ho molte perplessità. Comunque complimenti per la serie di video. Bravo!
Hi Jon, Very enjoyable series with a good end result, well done. Cheers.
Hi Paul, thanks for the comment. Glad you enjoyed the series. I am happy also with the results, makes it all worthwhile. Cheers, Jon
Thanks for the video Jon. Well done. A good clear and interesting little project series. Keep safe and stay well.
Hi Colin, thanks for the comment and feedback. Glad you liked it. Cheers, Jon
Good job done, so you have the piece of mind now , good videos, cheers Jon 👍
Hi Terry, thanks for the comment and feedback. Yes, much happier now, need to get a cut on to be fully convinced though. Cheers, Jon
Brilliant job, well done.
Hi Derrick, thanks for the comment, glad to hear you enjoyed it. Cheers, Jon
great series of Vids Jon bet your well chuffed with the results time to ger turning metal to scrap nono something usefull
Hi Nigel, thanks for the comment. Glad you enjoyed it. I am pleased yes, I have got some reasonable numbers on the geometry and it sounds and feels a lot better. More importantly, I know its clean in there now so it should last a lot longer. Cheers, Jon
Thank you so much for making this series.
I plan on buying one of these machines, your videos are excellent reference material.
Hi PJ, thanks for the comment and feedback. Glad you are finding it useful. If you look back at some of my earlier videos, I also show strip down and rebuild of the bottom end (assuming you haven't already seen them). Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop Actually watching them right now.
Thank you.
That was a brilliant series and I'm sure will serve as a great reference for others. Well done. You'll enjoy using it much more now you know its right.
Hi Carl, thanks for the comment. I have enjoyed it (well most of it). Yes, I really hope others get value out of it as that will make me very happy. Its comforting to know it is all clean and as well built as it can be. Cheers, Jon
Thanks Jon and well done. I appreciate you posting this so I know what to expect.
Hi Ciaran, thanks for the comment. Hopefully yours is slightly better, I think there is quite some variation talking to other owners. Cheers, Jon
Great job you have done there Jon ....helped me a lot ...on the next month i am getting the Cormak ZX7055 ...and i am a bit anxious 'cause i don't know what i will meet on this mill ....no much infos about it out there ....Thanks !
Hi Kostas, welcome to the channel, and thanks for the comment. You will find pretty much the same stuff as I have, they are all built to the same standard. If you go back and look at some of my earlier videos, you will see a full strip down of the table (X & Y), hopefully you will find them useful. Cheers, Jon
Jon,
Enjoyed the whole series - thank you, I have learned a great deal. Good luck with the channel. Looking forward to future projects. Thank for the advice on the bandsaw.
Mitch
Hi Mitch, thanks for the comment. Glad you enjoyed the series and are enjoying the channel. Not sure what it was like up where you are, but we had our Summer today in southern Scotland, good job it was at the weekend this year! Cheers, Jon
Jon I've just started watching thanks to DB and ABE's pointing in your direction. I decided to watch one of more recent ones 1st then went back to the beginning so glad I have then worked my way through and will continue to do so. To see how you struggled with crap camera, sound and minimal gear but wealth or knowledge and experience behind you shows how it can be achieved by many. This series on the mill is scary for all Asian made units as 99% come out the same factories no matter the brand or country where they are sold from. I have a HM-48 and have my concerns even though this machine was a floor demo model and the people I dealt with will have done their best to make it as good as they can. Keep up the good presentations.
Brilliant series, had a lot of fun and learned a lot, thank you Jon.
Hi Glyn, thanks for the comment and I am glad that you enjoyed the series. If you have learnt some stuff, I have achieved my objectives..... Lol. Cheers, Jon
Very nice walkthrough of the process. I just finished cleaning an used one. It was full of chips and grease in the wrong places. Only concern to me is the quill gear and low-high speed gear. They are way above the sight glass level. I don't know if they are lubricated by splashing, but when i opened the top, they were pretty dry....
Hi, yes I think as you switch on, the level rises due to vortex and splashing etc. Cheers, Jon
A good series to watch. Would be interesting to know if anyone from Cormak has watched and if they’ve any comments on the things you’ve found about the quality of their manufacturing ...
Hi Phil, thanks for the comment. Cormak know about my channel because I sent them a link and I know they watched the Bandsaw videos as they gave me feedback. I suspect even if they watched the mill videos, they would not get in contact. I did tip them off I would be doing a full review and asked them to send me a good one....... Read into that what you will! Cheers, Jon
At last it's finished, well it is for now😉, now you can get back to work.👍
But, oh dear Grasshopper did no one ever tell you how to pour oil from a can? 😢
Hello Master, thank you for your feedback. I am most humble, I had been taught to tip the can on its side but in my excitement, I clean forgot! As I have always said, to not know and get it wrong is excusable, to know and still get it wrong is criminal! On the plus side, I didn't spill or splash a drop (which I am pleased about because that gallon cost £13)!! On another plus note, my homemade midget enema kit worked really well. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, this has been a great series and now I know what to expect when I check my ZX45. Regards Kevin
Hi Kevin, thanks for the comment and feedback. Just subbed, still trying to catch up with all the new arrivals following a couple of recent shout outs. Cheers, Jon
Jon I really enjoyed the series! it just too bad you had to do all of that work to a new machine! Looking forward to the next video to see how it works under load!
Hi Phil, thanks for the comment. Glad to hear you enjoyed the series. I kind of knew when I bought the machine it was going to need this (there is a good reason they are cheap). Its also good because I have taken it all to bits and touched every part so I now know what it's made of, and how, which is useful to help get the best out of it (kind of know what it's weak points and limitations are). Cheers, Jon
I will have to check this series out . my Hoc Fuk Wong ( Zay 7045 ) has about 20 thou play in the quill .
Hi Max, thanks for the comment, they are all pretty similar inside so this should be a useful reference. I couldn't find anything really detailed on YT so went step by step on this in the hopes It helps others. Cheers, Jon
That has been an interesting series, both informative and entertaining and very worthwhile.so when the budget allows will there be a DRO installation ? And maybe a home made power feed ? .in the meantime thanks and looking forward to the first project with the New mill.
Hi Steve, thanks for the comment and feedback. You are bang on, a DRO is a definite and power feed a maybe. As you say, I need to let my funds recover a bit, certainly blown some cash since April when I started it all. Glad you enjoyed it. Cheers, Jon
Nice job on the Jon. enjoyed the video. Stay safe
Cheers Fred
Hi Fred, thanks for the comment, just found your channel and subbed (catching up with what you have been up to)! If you fancy doing a sticker swap, drop me an email at Jons.workshop@aol.com Cheers, Jon
Nice one Jon, I have enjoyed this series. Good to see your mill up and running again. 👍🏻
It is just a shame you have had to do all this to a new machine. All in all would you still recommend this make of machine to another potential buyer or knowing what you know now would you have gone for a different option yourself ?
Am looking fwd to your next projects.
Take care Jon 👍🏻
Regards Tony
Hi Tony, thanks for the comment and feedback. Its 6 of one and half a dozen of the other really, any Asian import mill would benefit from the same level of work so the brand almost becomes irrelevant (they are all pretty much the same). I look at it like this, I paid £1700 for it including the stand and delivery (Dick Turpin would be proud of that), and I have spent £100 on bearings and £6 on oil, so £1806 all up. If I bought a used Bridgeport for the same money it would be absolutely knackered and probably need another £2k spending on it to make it useable, and probably more hours of graft. I would have preferred the Bridgeport but the savings I made paid for my lathe. Its a no brainer really for a home shop, just got to be prepared to roll your sleeves up. Hope this helps answer your question. Thanks for the support. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, thanks for your reply. Yep it seems to me like you got a really good deal there. After putting in a little extra time and small amount of cash you have ended up with a nice machine. It looks to be a pretty solid tool too !
Happy machining,
Regards Tony 👍🏻
Very good end result Jon!It must feel good that you have done everything possible !
Is your lathe motor close to the max(2.2 kW)of the static converter?And if so is it coping well?Robert
Hi Robert, thanks for the comment. I am pleased with it now and I hope that you will find it useful information. My Lathe has a 2.2kW motor so right on the limit. It copes OK but it is all a bit of a compromise. The transformer is designed for a, static load like a compressor or a generator etc, the lathe is dynamic as each cut will draw a different amount of power. I have found the best setting (number 4) and work round the compromise. It does pretty well really. You will probably need some help setting yours up for the mill as you will need to alter some settings inside the unit, let me know when you get to this point and I will give you the info I got from Power Capacitors. Cheers, Jon
G'day Jon and greetings from Tasmania Australia, one question I have, my mill is a HM 46 very similar to yours, do you have problems shifting the levers for Hi & Lo and speed, mine are very tight and hard to move. I have subscribed to your channel kind regards John
Hi John, thanks for the comment and subscription, much appreciated. Can't believe my humble little channel has made it that far round the world, I am honoured. In answer to your question, they were both very stiff as new, they are much better following the clean up work (but still a bit stiff). Having seen the detent arrangement on the shafts, I am confident they will slacken more with use (the spring that holds the ball bearing into the detent positions is quite strong). Hope this helps and thanks again for your support and interest. Cheers, Jon
what do Cormak say? ok...the Chinese manufacturer has poor quality control but Cormak are accepting these faulty machines ....and selling them!
Hi Simon, thanks for the comment. They wouldn't respond probably and if they did it would be to say that the machine was functioning as intended (which is true). All resellers are the same regardless of name. There is a reason they are cheap and this is it. I was fully aware when purchasing this would probably be how it went, I treat it as a kit of parts, that with incremental improvements will become better etc. Cheers, Jon
Would you buy another Cormak machine? I’m considering a lathe. Thanks.
Hi Greg, thanks for the comment. If I was in the market for another Chinese machine, Cormak are as good as any of the other importers. You need to be prepared that you are buying a kit of parts (from any of them) that will need significant work to make it half decent. They get the first 80% of the manufacture done not too bad, and then throw it all away on the last 20 through lack of cleaning, de-burring, and fitting crap bearings, all the Chinese import stuff is the same. Cheers, Jon
Great series Jon - has given me confidence to do the same to my machine. As a point of interest, what was the total cost of the bearings? Regards🤓
Hi Clive, thanks for the comment. Glad you found it useful and inspiring. The bearings cost about £100 with delivery all in. Well worth the upgrade for the difference it has made. Cheers, Jon
Is this the same machine with blue white red livery or a better quality version for western market? wanna get one for myself since its not too small not too big should be able to big surfacing work if i use a fly cutter with long swing?
Hi woo zhi, thanks for the comment. It is exactly the same machine, just re-branded. My personal opinion is that you may struggle with a big fly cutter, mine struggles with a small one! This is due to the gears in the head being plain spur gears with lots of backlash (clearance) meaning with an interrupted cut, the head is very noisy and this translates through the spindle affecting surface finish. I think you would be better with a direct drive model for your application. Hope this helps. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop Thank you for the reply and your experience with this machine .Would it be okay if i run the spindle slow and with a low gear that is torqy or just fix the backlash,but i would be running it slow anyway unless its a finishing or i have to get it done quick?
Hi woo zhi, running slow will help. You won't be able to remove the clearance between the gears as there is no adjustment in the head. Success will really depend on the material type you plan to cut and the depth of cut, very light skims (shallow cuts, 0.2mm) on soft materials will be OK probably. Don't expect to be taking 1mm depth of cut on steel with a big fly cutter, it won't be a good result. Hope this helps. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop Thank you once again
Hi Jon !...would you share some infos on buying this machine on email or fb ?
Hi Kostas, for sure. Send me an email to the address shown in the intro screen with your questions and I will do my best to answer them. Cheers, Jon
@@jonsworkshop check your inbox
Why not use engine oil at 5 quid a gallon from Aldi................it's not a Rolex watch????
Stavros
Hi Steve, thanks for the comment. Good question. I am sure normal 10W 40 would be OK, but the gallon of ISO 32 cost £13 and that will do two fills so will probably last a couple of years or so. After all the effort and hard work, saving 3 or 4 quid by not putting the recommended grade oil in just seems a bit foolish (and that is coming from someone who is tighter than 2 coats of paint.... Lol). Cheers, Jon