My young! I'm an advanced deity citizen, but I don't get tired of learning to do things! I just have to thank you for your selflessness and sharing knowledge. The world would be different if we had more young people like you! Thank you very much!
Great reminder from when I made many PCBs - but I had the luxury of a fibre backing to the copper. This fine brass work is stunning and was great to watch!
This is pretty neat. I did a couple PCBs back in school using a toner transfer method rather than this. The best part of this method is that you can reuse the masks which is probably a big plus for model makers.
It was only briefly mentioned in the video, but the photo-sensitive emulsion should be applied in a "dark room" environment, and the air should be clean (no dust floating around). Dust specs in your film can ruin a print, depending on where it lands. I use a cheap yellow bug light, and the 24 hours while it's drying also needs to be in a clean place so dust and bugs don't land on it. It would have been cool to include in this video the 2-step exposure process showing how to make de-bossed parts (some areas etched partway through, other areas etched completely through). Basically, separate masks for front and back patterns. (Use registration marks on the two design patterns for alignment.) My final comment is it's a good idea to clamp your artwork under a glass plate while exposing with the UV light. If it shifts at all during exposure then that will also ruin your parts. Oh, and always dispose of your used chemicals properly!
I've been told that many of the milky plastic containers block UV rays. If that's the case, you can just cover it with that and leave it on your desk. Then again, I wonder if solid containers also block UV rays...;-p
It's not exclusively UV that exposes the resist - "photo-sensitive" material will react with almost all light, it's just a matter of exposure time. (True, some wavelengths are effectively inert for photoresist, but it's still a good idea to minimize light exposure prior to developing.) People use UV light because it's fast, taking only a couple seconds or minutes depending on the intensity. Normal light will also expose the resist, but it will take longer and then you lose image quality.
That was eye opening ! And the level of small details that was captured was amazing to see I give your video a perfect 10 it's one of the best how to videos that I have seen online
yep i asked him in another video for how long he is doing this and he told me hes "only" doing it for some years now and that he is 24 - definatly mind blown!
Hahaha. My exact reaction. I was expecting a much older man. And there I thought I'm one of the younger chaps into scale model building (Turned 31 in Aug this year). :P
Me too! I saw his hands and I hear his voice. I knew he was quite young but I'm surprised the same! Because his skill ar far superior then the skill of common modelers of his age. He is a fast learner....I'm envy :P
I DO NOT CARE if this could be dangerous to do at home. That is really impressive stuff. I will be trying this myself, I can't see how it could be a danger, if your careful. The possibilities this opens up for scale detailing are huge. Thanks Mate !! You earned a subscriber on 1 video. I'll have to watch any several times to understand your accent, but I can handle that.
Many thanks for the how to because I didn't realize how easy it really is. Made a copy of this video and downloaded a lot of fence/gate/fern drawings via Google. There are some dome homes/apartments that are abandoned in S. Korea which have odd shaped windows, kind of like the human eye and now I can make window frames, along with a diorama of people playing whack a mole in the local cemetery against zombies.
the highest respect and thanks for this video must be offered. I can't state it any other way than you are a Hero of the modelling/YTtutorial communities. many kudos
I have been using this method for making railway loco name plates and various model tram parts for years. The light sensitive coating chemical I obtained through the PCB trade. Unfortunately I bought the negative one instead of the positive one. It works, but needs more work to set up the design on a PC since it is the printed black lines which are etched. I have had it for some 15 years and keep it in a small fridge. For the developer I use a solution of baking powder (as advised by the PCB trade). I have been using .4mm brass sheet which is fine for name plates etc. but has to be etched from both sides for items as demonstrated in the video. Believe me two sided work is very fiddly to coat and set up. Any way, it was a very interesting video.
love how he reads the script first but probably could have just picked up the bottles in any order and read the label. Not calling him out, just thought it was funny. Great video, very useful.
Great video - you can learn a lot. I'm not entirely convinced about using adhesive tape as a support to hold the parts in place. When I tried this method, it was very difficult to get free from the adhesive tape... apart from that, I believe that the ability to create such elements is very developing.
@@PSRJ-b-ht3wt The reality is... school/university aged boys are like sponges and absorb fine modelling skills quickly thanks to this thing called the internet. This is why I'm never surprised at how some of the artistic level modelers are much younger than I. As I see it, I'm thankful they are around for we old guys don't have the interest in posting videos of our model making.
Awesome! I've been looking at laser CAD cutters but the cheap ones weren't rated for metal. I can finally complete my 1/700 scale fleet at a fraction of the cost!
Rather than using a hobby knife to get rid of the bubbles, your local sign supplier has squeegees and very fine points for smoothing down adhesive materials in pricking holes to remove bubbles. Awesome video.
WOW... wow... and wow... you blue up my mind... I never thought that we could do this at home! and me like stupid was always buying them, thanks man... Bravo
Thanks so much for this demonstration, very kind of you to take the time to share your knowledge of this process with all of us who love modeling and love to add the kind of detail that Photo Etched parts offer.
those came out beautifully, great job. i've forgotten about this process, which is something i think i could find use for in my and my wife's trophy/plaque business. but, you could etch these things and afix them to anything. shoo, you can even build models with them ~ very delicate models. granted, a laser engraver could do all this, too, but, yeah, i don't have the money for one of those yet, lol. a sandblaster could do it, too, come to think of it, but this would probably be by far the most cost-effective....
Amazing work as always. I think I'd use the safer version, knowing my luck, my chemicals would go critical and I'd create a wasteland in the South of England! That would be okay if I localised it to Downing Street lol David, may I ask where you purchased the UV light/what brand it is please.
over-pricing companies? you mean, businesses with utilities, leases, employees, insurance, professional equipment and quality guarantees? you mean they're more expensive than someone working out of their garage? shocking! lol.
ryan barker I understand full well why they charge so much (what with the price of living going up, inflation etc. and the sad truth that modeling is a dying art) but it's always nice to see that were not totally reliant on them for adding detail.
Mad Cow Rebel i'm not a modeler (i can certainly appreciate the skillz involved), but i look at this process and see how i can apply it to my small business. would i charge more because i'm a legit business than the garage operator/hobbyist? not necessarily, especially when the hobbyist begins to take orders and realizes that even without overhead he's not even making near minimum wage, lol. i love this process, though, and see a lot of applications other than for modeling.
No doubt! Plus, add to that the time (also an expense) of painstaking research for designing quality parts. This video shows the "garage" proces, but the "professional" process is a little more expensive, and you've heard the saying "you get what you pay for". You'll notice the difference when comparing the edges and profiles of professionally-etched parts versus home-etched parts.
Thank you very much for posting this tutorial, the only part I'd have trouble getting is the UV lamp, but not that much trouble, just have to save up a week or 2. The amount of detail you can get is amazing & the amount of money a person can save by doing it themselves is great as photo etched parts can add up after a few pieces & whats needed for a given project. Thanks again & the info was worth subscribing as modeling is a hobby that flourishes when knowledge is passed amongst its practioners
Thank you for this! I've been wanting to know how this is done and your step by step method is really appreciated. Will you cover at some point how you made the template in GIMP and what sort of DPI you need for it to be clear? Can you use templates and convert them?
If you have access to a laser cutter / engraver there is a quicker way. You can skip everything up until the etching. Put your brass piece on the tape, spray it with spray paint, put it in the laser engraver paint side up and at a very low setting engrave the piece with a negative image of your pattern. The paint has now been removed from the parts that should be etched. After etching the remaing paint can be removed with rubbing alcohol or what ever dissolves it.
Wow...very impressive. I watched your other video on molding with blue stuff and of course, immediately ordered. Your videos are very well made and informative. Thank you for taking the time to educate us!
Thank you so much. This is incredible and perfect for the detailed pieces I plan to make to go with my miniatures. Could not be happier I found this knowledge and your videos. thank you sir.
I have a question. When i get professionally made etched brass parts, they often will have sections that are "half etched" IE, areas where the brass has been partially eaten away. Usually this is done on areas with raised rivets (i model trains, we have lots of rivets) or where the part is intented to be bent when assembling. My question is how would i acheive this? My guess would be to start by printing the rivets on the brass, start the etching process, and interrupt it partway through to add a layer of lacquer on the remaining part i want to protect. Would there be a different way to do this?
super tutorial, i have a question about gimp. what dpi settings are you using for the image? i use gimp all the time so the designing would be easy. :) thanks.
300dpi is recommended for printing, at least not less than 150dpi. 600dpi is very detailed, already too much for most hand made operations. 1200dpi and higher is uselessly too much detailed and even some printers cannot follow it.
When you etch with Iron(III) chloride can you speed up if you use an Aquaristic glasheater (to warm controlled up), an air pump with airstone made of lime wood (better and smaller bubbles), placed under your object. You will find out that you really speed up and avoid under-etching at the edges. Additionally you can speed up once more, if you place you material to etch upright in cuvette with the airstone at the bottom. Now the bubbles sweep along the surface and speed up the etching process. Hint: it is usefull to place a cap over the etching container to prevent spray of burst bubbles.
Thank you! I live in Slovakia and I don't know what these are called in Slovak or czech as I only speak English unforunately, this definitely helps me out!
I'm kinda lost on this. Let me know if this right: Cut out brass sheet to size of decal. Cover back of brass sheet with tape. Sand and clean other side of brass sheet. Spray photosensitive glue on clean side. Let dry. Place decal over glue side and place under UV light. Glue adheres to decal image ink. Decal sheet is pulled off. Brass sheet is placed in nasty chemicals. Brass that isn't covered by ink is dissolved. Remaining brass bits are peeled off tape backing. The UV transfer is where I think I lost it. How do you make sure you have good contact between the decal sheet and the brass? Wouldn't it better to have the decal sheet face up over a glass with the brass piece on top? You would just have to invert your UV source.
Bruce A for starters it is not a decal. This is called a transparency. The glass will hold the transparency down just by its weight. What is sprayed on is not glue! It is a photo resist used to make printed circuit boards. Exposure to UV will allow the exposed resist to be washed away. Where it was not exposed, it will not wash off. The resist will keep the etching chemicals from removing metal. Hope this helps.
this is fantastic. How thick, or what is the thickest sheet you could use? As for the printing, if you needed to, you could always have them professionally printed at a local shop, probably would not be that much for a few 8x11's of perfect high resolution
I would like to know how thick can you go because I am trying to do this with a 1" copper plumbing cap. I may just make my pattern on brass instead and do a wrap instead of a cap. So I need to know the thinkest metal I can use. The metal in the video looked paper thin.
@@casmaran545 hey dude, I'm not the maker of the video, but it's a good question. most etching becomes a thing of time. time in the acid or time with the current. the longer you leave it, the deeper it gets. best thing, try it, take a video and share
I remember doing this at school but just painting the masking solution on, some kind of tar, and dipping in the HC acid. That was a while ago. Brought back some memories. Can be very dangerous, will burn you (like in alien) and gives off noxious gas as I recall.
Going to try this this weekend on chemical milling of watch dials. Is there a undercut rule of thumb? Like for every 1mm of etching, expect .2mm of undercut or anything like that?
‼️don’t attempt to use any Brass or Stainless Steel thicker than .05”. 👉I just spent a week testing .10” SS on a small motor plate & it took 6+ hours of etching😱(I rotated & even flipped the plate in the NEW HEATED batch of etching solution) So the Sweet spot is .05” or less✅
Hey David, great video indeed.. quick question, you used brass sheet in the video. Can we use any kind of metal sheet, like zinc you said, or is it better to use brass?
Can't thank you enough for sharing your method and insight into this. Going to start collecting materials and such now... Any chance you know how and can share a method for only etching on one face instead of all the way through? Like say you wanted to add some sculpt like detail on the face of those gates...
so that's how it's done. nice video and explanation, I Like! always thought it was cut by hand. say what's the sound, I thought I was going deaf on one ear but then again I heard music on the other ear, both mono and stereo LOL finally it sound was perfect except that I bumped up the volume and "Can You Hear Me Now?"
![[Live สด] การออกรางวัลสลากกินแบ่งรัฐบาล งวดวันที่ 16 พฤศจิกายน 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wPd7VFfWHIA/mqdefault.jpg)
My young! I'm an advanced deity citizen, but I don't get tired of learning to do things! I just have to thank you for your selflessness and sharing knowledge. The world would be different if we had more young people like you! Thank you very much!
Great reminder from when I made many PCBs - but I had the luxury of a fibre backing to the copper. This fine brass work is stunning and was great to watch!
Absoloutly amazing!!!!!! This is going to save me a fortune in parts for my railway items
Я в шоке какая офигенная работа! Слов нет,одни восхищения работой настоящего мастера! БРАВО...
Anybody can do bad work, but not everybody does good work. Great Work
Definitely mind blown right now. I use to etch printed circuit boards, never though it could be used in this way. Nice work.
Thank you for this video, I can watch it over and over and never get bored. Cheers!
This is pretty neat. I did a couple PCBs back in school using a toner transfer method rather than this.
The best part of this method is that you can reuse the masks which is probably a big plus for model makers.
I build scale aircrafts and now i have a idea for building photoetched parts for cockpit panels and wheels masks.
THANK YOU AND PERFECT WORK.
It was only briefly mentioned in the video, but the photo-sensitive emulsion should be applied in a "dark room" environment, and the air should be clean (no dust floating around). Dust specs in your film can ruin a print, depending on where it lands. I use a cheap yellow bug light, and the 24 hours while it's drying also needs to be in a clean place so dust and bugs don't land on it. It would have been cool to include in this video the 2-step exposure process showing how to make de-bossed parts (some areas etched partway through, other areas etched completely through). Basically, separate masks for front and back patterns. (Use registration marks on the two design patterns for alignment.) My final comment is it's a good idea to clamp your artwork under a glass plate while exposing with the UV light. If it shifts at all during exposure then that will also ruin your parts. Oh, and always dispose of your used chemicals properly!
I've been told that many of the milky plastic containers block UV rays. If that's the case, you can just cover it with that and leave it on your desk. Then again, I wonder if solid containers also block UV rays...;-p
It's not exclusively UV that exposes the resist - "photo-sensitive" material will react with almost all light, it's just a matter of exposure time. (True, some wavelengths are effectively inert for photoresist, but it's still a good idea to minimize light exposure prior to developing.) People use UV light because it's fast, taking only a couple seconds or minutes depending on the intensity. Normal light will also expose the resist, but it will take longer and then you lose image quality.
Ah, so go with solid
That was eye opening ! And the level of small details that was captured was amazing to see I give your video a perfect 10 it's one of the best how to videos that I have seen online
Wow, I expected you to be so much older. Mind Blown. Awesome video Thanks.
Thank you.
yep i asked him in another video for how long he is doing this and he told me hes "only" doing it for some years now and that he is 24 - definatly mind blown!
hehe, keep up the good work!
Hahaha. My exact reaction. I was expecting a much older man. And there I thought I'm one of the younger chaps into scale model building (Turned 31 in Aug this year). :P
Me too! I saw his hands and I hear his voice. I knew he was quite young but I'm surprised the same! Because his skill ar far superior then the skill of common modelers of his age. He is a fast learner....I'm envy :P
ferric chloride is super messy it will leave stains that are unwashable. very nice video.
Amazing work! Its people like you that help keep me optimistic about our future!
Thanks for sharing your work! 100% inspiring!
I DO NOT CARE if this could be dangerous to do at home. That is really impressive stuff. I will be trying this myself, I can't see how it could be a danger, if your careful. The possibilities this opens up for scale detailing are huge. Thanks Mate !! You earned a subscriber on 1 video. I'll have to watch any several times to understand your accent, but I can handle that.
Great results, well done my friend. I will keep a note of this video and if I ever need any PE making, I can look this up again.
Many thanks,
Joe
Thank you. Professional PE are etched from both sides but it is unnecessarily complicated.
David you make this look easy...but I appreciate you opening up my mind to the possibility of creating PE parts!
I'm a simple man... I see a useful video, I upvote.
Level Model God !!!!!! You're unstoppable now David 🙌 I'm giving you the award of best video tutorial ever!!!!! Keep these videos coming 👍👍👍👍👍
Stunning work, David! Very inspiring as all your videos. Keep it up. Allways looking forward for the next one :)
man, really you are awesome!, or as we tell in México "un chingón". Congratulations for your work and thanx for share your knowledges.
Many thanks for the how to because I didn't realize how easy it really is. Made a copy of this video and downloaded a lot of fence/gate/fern drawings via Google. There are some dome homes/apartments that are abandoned in S. Korea which have odd shaped windows, kind of like the human eye and now I can make window frames, along with a diorama of people playing whack a mole in the local cemetery against zombies.
the highest respect and thanks for this video must be offered.
I can't state it any other way than you are a Hero of the modelling/YTtutorial communities.
many kudos
I have been using this method for making railway loco name plates and various model tram parts for years.
The light sensitive coating chemical I obtained through the PCB trade. Unfortunately I bought the negative one instead of the positive one. It works, but needs more work to set up the design on a PC since it is the printed black lines which are etched. I have had it for some 15 years and keep it in a small fridge.
For the developer I use a solution of baking powder (as advised by the PCB trade).
I have been using .4mm brass sheet which is fine for name plates etc. but has to be etched from both sides for items as demonstrated in the video. Believe me two sided work is very fiddly to coat and set up.
Any way, it was a very interesting video.
love how he reads the script first but probably could have just picked up the bottles in any order and read the label. Not calling him out, just thought it was funny. Great video, very useful.
Wow!! That's awesome!! Never knew how photo etch parts were made. Seems so simple
lol im a mechanical engineer and never seen brass disolving before in my life lol...... nice! now i know where PE parts come from
Beautiful work from start to finish. Thank you very much for making this tutorial.
Bravo from Texas!
Great video - you can learn a lot. I'm not entirely convinced about using adhesive tape as a support to hold the parts in place. When I tried this method, it was very difficult to get free from the adhesive tape... apart from that, I believe that the ability to create such elements is very developing.
Great work and an excellent video, David! Hehe I, too, was surprised at how young you are, considering what a craftsman modeller you are!
Such a stereotypical response
Buckey Goldstar sjw clown.
@@thetoecutter13 Sjw? I don't understand this "you're young so you can't be a good modeler" mentality too.
@@PSRJ-b-ht3wt The reality is... school/university aged boys are like sponges and absorb fine modelling skills quickly thanks to this thing called the internet. This is why I'm never surprised at how some of the artistic level modelers are much younger than I. As I see it, I'm thankful they are around for we old guys don't have the interest in posting videos of our model making.
Awesome! I've been looking at laser CAD cutters but the cheap ones weren't rated for metal. I can finally complete my 1/700 scale fleet at a fraction of the cost!
Rather than using a hobby knife to get rid of the bubbles, your local sign supplier has squeegees and very fine points for smoothing down adhesive materials in pricking holes to remove bubbles.
Awesome video.
Thats a lot easier than I was expecting. Thanks David.
Thanks for the demo, you make it look easy!
Nice work!
I see jewelry applications. Thanks for reminding me about etching. I did my first etching in 1970.
Very impressive results for a really cheap price !
Thanks for posting !
WOW... wow... and wow... you blue up my mind... I never thought that we could do this at home! and me like stupid was always buying them, thanks man... Bravo
Thanks so much for this demonstration, very kind of you to take the time to share your knowledge of this process with all of us who love modeling and love to add the kind of detail that Photo Etched parts offer.
those came out beautifully, great job. i've forgotten about this process, which is something i think i could find use for in my and my wife's trophy/plaque business.
but, you could etch these things and afix them to anything. shoo, you can even build models with them ~ very delicate models. granted, a laser engraver could do all this, too, but, yeah, i don't have the money for one of those yet, lol. a sandblaster could do it, too, come to think of it, but this would probably be by far the most cost-effective....
I was knowing it but never saw practical....Thanks a lot
Simply amazing. You're a master, David. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I just tested this technique two weeks ago. This was my second attempt. Learn and share. :-D
+PLASMO - plastic models What will you do in two months...
Amazing work as always. I think I'd use the safer version, knowing my luck, my chemicals would go critical and I'd create a wasteland in the South of England! That would be okay if I localised it to Downing Street lol
David, may I ask where you purchased the UV light/what brand it is please.
I declare you high overlord of the modelling community!
This is the same method to use when making homemade circuit boards?
Yes, you have absolutely right.
Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing. I will add this to my book nook project. Keep the videos coming.
Great video.
Also you look very young.
But you are so experienced and talented.salute you
Very cool! Perfect etchings to build models and dioramas.
This is pretty nuts. Better watch out! over pricing companies might get jealous!
over-pricing companies? you mean, businesses with utilities, leases, employees, insurance, professional equipment and quality guarantees? you mean they're more expensive than someone working out of their garage? shocking! lol.
ryan barker I understand full well why they charge so much (what with the price of living going up, inflation etc. and the sad truth that modeling is a dying art) but it's always nice to see that were not totally reliant on them for adding detail.
Mad Cow Rebel i'm not a modeler (i can certainly appreciate the skillz involved), but i look at this process and see how i can apply it to my small business. would i charge more because i'm a legit business than the garage operator/hobbyist? not necessarily, especially when the hobbyist begins to take orders and realizes that even without overhead he's not even making near minimum wage, lol.
i love this process, though, and see a lot of applications other than for modeling.
No doubt! Plus, add to that the time (also an expense) of painstaking research for designing quality parts. This video shows the "garage" proces, but the "professional" process is a little more expensive, and you've heard the saying "you get what you pay for". You'll notice the difference when comparing the edges and profiles of professionally-etched parts versus home-etched parts.
Hmmm i would be surprised. The chemical reaction can be as precise as the pro model. Also he just need to use a 2000 grade sand paper "et voilà".
Thank you very much for posting this tutorial, the only part I'd have trouble getting is the UV lamp, but not that much trouble, just have to save up a week or 2. The amount of detail you can get is amazing & the amount of money a person can save by doing it themselves is great as photo etched parts can add up after a few pieces & whats needed for a given project. Thanks again & the info was worth subscribing as modeling is a hobby that flourishes when knowledge is passed amongst its practioners
Percy Barbarossa The UV lamp is the same one used to dry polish on ladies' fingernails.
Thank you for this! I've been wanting to know how this is done and your step by step method is really appreciated. Will you cover at some point how you made the template in GIMP and what sort of DPI you need for it to be clear? Can you use templates and convert them?
Přehlédl jsem.Promiň. Díky za naprosto skvělá videa.
If you have access to a laser cutter / engraver there is a quicker way. You can skip everything up until the etching. Put your brass piece on the tape, spray it with spray paint, put it in the laser engraver paint side up and at a very low setting engrave the piece with a negative image of your pattern. The paint has now been removed from the parts that should be etched. After etching the remaing paint can be removed with rubbing alcohol or what ever dissolves it.
Wow...very impressive. I watched your other video on molding with blue stuff and of course, immediately ordered. Your videos are very well made and informative. Thank you for taking the time to educate us!
This video was great i was looking for videos on what machine to use but this is just awesome
Thank you so much. This is incredible and perfect for the detailed pieces I plan to make to go with my miniatures. Could not be happier I found this knowledge and your videos. thank you sir.
Crazy! It's like laser etching without the laser.
I have a question. When i get professionally made etched brass parts, they often will have sections that are "half etched" IE, areas where the brass has been partially eaten away. Usually this is done on areas with raised rivets (i model trains, we have lots of rivets) or where the part is intented to be bent when assembling. My question is how would i acheive this?
My guess would be to start by printing the rivets on the brass, start the etching process, and interrupt it partway through to add a layer of lacquer on the remaining part i want to protect.
Would there be a different way to do this?
Awesome! thanks for the information I'm a beginner and am learning so much from your inspirational video's Cheers from Canada Great Work!!!
Hey there, great tutorial! Now I fell ready to try by myselfe.
super tutorial, i have a question about gimp. what dpi settings are you using for the image? i use gimp all the time so the designing would be easy. :) thanks.
also just wondered is there a way to half etch parts without doing the process twice?
I used some default dpi. Gimp is just one solution vector graphics will be much better.
Etching from both sides is very complicated and I do not recommend it
300dpi is recommended for printing, at least not less than 150dpi. 600dpi is very detailed, already too much for most hand made operations. 1200dpi and higher is uselessly too much detailed and even some printers cannot follow it.
@Dorsey Ottesen shut up, don't ruin another video
When you etch with Iron(III) chloride can you speed up if you use an Aquaristic glasheater (to warm controlled up), an air pump with airstone made of lime wood (better and smaller bubbles), placed under your object. You will find out that you really speed up and avoid under-etching at the edges. Additionally you can speed up once more, if you place you material to etch upright in cuvette with the airstone at the bottom. Now the bubbles sweep along the surface and speed up the etching process. Hint: it is usefull to place a cap over the etching container to prevent spray of burst bubbles.
Very talented and I enjoyed watching your videos keep up the awesome work man!
Thank you! I live in Slovakia and I don't know what these are called in Slovak or czech as I only speak English unforunately, this definitely helps me out!
Great vid and very informative. Always wanted to know how to make my own etched parts. Thanks again.
I'm kinda lost on this. Let me know if this right:
Cut out brass sheet to size of decal.
Cover back of brass sheet with tape.
Sand and clean other side of brass sheet.
Spray photosensitive glue on clean side. Let dry.
Place decal over glue side and place under UV light.
Glue adheres to decal image ink. Decal sheet is pulled off.
Brass sheet is placed in nasty chemicals. Brass that isn't covered by ink is dissolved.
Remaining brass bits are peeled off tape backing.
The UV transfer is where I think I lost it. How do you make sure you have good contact between the decal sheet and the brass? Wouldn't it better to have the decal sheet face up over a glass with the brass piece on top? You would just have to invert your UV source.
Bruce A for starters it is not a decal. This is called a transparency.
The glass will hold the transparency down just by its weight.
What is sprayed on is not glue! It is a photo resist used to make printed circuit boards.
Exposure to UV will allow the exposed resist to be washed away. Where it was not exposed, it will not wash off.
The resist will keep the etching chemicals from removing metal.
Hope this helps.
impressive ...great tutorial.
can you kindly write down the names of the chemicals that you used please ?
Ah, it brings back memories. This is how I made my first circuit boards when I was 11.
I am just going to have to try this for parts of a DIY 1/48 aircraft carrier elevator perimeter shroud and tie downs.
Very nice video illustrating DIY at home. Thank you.
Nice job! Gate looks super nice.
Wow you are amazing kiddo wow simply fantastic . BRAVO well done i love it
this is fantastic. How thick, or what is the thickest sheet you could use? As for the printing, if you needed to, you could always have them professionally printed at a local shop, probably would not be that much for a few 8x11's of perfect high resolution
I would like to know how thick can you go because I am trying to do this with a 1" copper plumbing cap. I may just make my pattern on brass instead and do a wrap instead of a cap. So I need to know the thinkest metal I can use. The metal in the video looked paper thin.
@@casmaran545 hey dude, I'm not the maker of the video, but it's a good question. most etching becomes a thing of time. time in the acid or time with the current. the longer you leave it, the deeper it gets. best thing, try it, take a video and share
I may sound sadistic, by I'd LOVE to see you build an entirely "photo etched model" one day 😂😂
I bet you have the skill to do this 😂
👍 really nice 👍 , can sunlight exposer open the film instead of uv lamp ?
just yesterday I was wondering how they make PE kits, now I know. Thanx
I'm tempted to try this to make painting masks.
Very interesting !!! I will try this method.
Do you use an uv lamp for nails ??
Holy smokes you look like a young Harrison Ford
Breaking bad tutorial! 😀
Great video. Looks amazing
Outstanding. Thanks for this tutorial!
I remember doing this at school but just painting the masking solution on, some kind of tar, and dipping in the HC acid. That was a while ago. Brought back some memories. Can be very dangerous, will burn you (like in alien) and gives off noxious gas as I recall.
Thank you for the tutorial. Very informative. I wanted to know if there are any alternative to photosensitive lacquer?
Very interesting demo and very well explained. Thank you.
Your a clever man!!!! Thank you for sharing your skills👍
Hey, super nice video. Thank you. I bought ferric chloride as a powder. What are the most efficient proportions mixing it with water?
Going to try this this weekend on chemical milling of watch dials. Is there a undercut rule of thumb? Like for every 1mm of etching, expect .2mm of undercut or anything like that?
‼️don’t attempt to use any Brass or Stainless Steel thicker than .05”.
👉I just spent a week testing .10” SS on a small motor plate & it took 6+ hours of etching😱(I rotated & even flipped the plate in the NEW HEATED batch of etching solution)
So the Sweet spot is .05” or less✅
I used fresh heated etching solution on .05" stainless steel plate & it took 50 minutes to fully etch. Hope that helps some....
Excellent video! How thick a zinc plate are you using? can you use copper?
Great video. I am completely amazed! what was the thickness of the transparent plastic sheet? can you use an aluminum sheet?
Hey David, great video indeed.. quick question, you used brass sheet in the video. Can we use any kind of metal sheet, like zinc you said, or is it better to use brass?
Brass
My left ear enjoyed this.
Can't thank you enough for sharing your method and insight into this. Going to start collecting materials and such now... Any chance you know how and can share a method for only etching on one face instead of all the way through? Like say you wanted to add some sculpt like detail on the face of those gates...
Very well done! Can you tell me what the concentration of Ferric Chloride you used?
Nice job! I always wondered how this worked!
so that's how it's done. nice video and explanation, I Like! always thought it was cut by hand. say what's the sound, I thought I was going deaf on one ear but then again I heard music on the other ear, both mono and stereo LOL finally it sound was perfect except that I bumped up the volume and "Can You Hear Me Now?"
Fantastic! Can you use the photo resist film instead of the positiv 20 spray can?
Excellent guide for a fascinating subject.
Fantastic tutorial! Thank you for sharing!
Never thought about doing this back in the days I was doing prototype circuit boards...
Great video and work. have you tred to etch thicker bras than 0,1/0.2 , in case does it work to etch 0.5 up to 1.0 with good result?
Could you use grayscale or dithering to impart a texture onto the finished pieces? I mean if the template wasn't just solid black.