I’m having trouble getting full throttle cuts out and mine grounded it’s only full throttle it cuts out and won’t die just will cut out wasn’t sure if that have something do with wiring issue or what exactly it might be I’ve watched all your vids abt the 660’ and you’re abt only person come to for questions.
my raptor runs fine, has an improve that keeps the button pushed, but the problem is at idlie , my engine stops aleatory like i'm turning it off by key.... what shoud i do ?
So I have a quick question I have a raptor 660 and I want to remove the parking brake mechanism along with adding a , ASV C6 clutch lever perch ! I noticed the two wires that maybe go to the clutch perch? I was wondering if I can just unplug them ? I don’t have pics at the moment any advice would be great I have learned quite a bit from your videos and I am also gonna be doing a 686 big bore kit with cosmetic top end gaskets and studs so I will need to send me carbs to you to have them dialed in ! I reside i. Michigan thanks moto man
I don't remember off top of my head, but pretty sure just unplug wires on perch. It is either those two wires touching or not touching, and you will know if you have it wrong because it will sputter and not run good
Also I just tried to install a aftermarket clutch from bp racing and they told me not to run the jutter spring so I didn’t. Got it all back together and when I put in first gear it stalls, and when I hold in the clutch I can’t find all the other gears it won’t shift into the gears! I am stumped. I hope you can guide me three it. Thanks for the advice I got the perch figured out.
My 01 the wires are in different locations the 2 wires mentioned are on separate plugs . The green with white wire is on the opposite side of cdi is that still the correct wire to ground?
hey man! where is the best place to get just a basic gasket and oring kit for my raptor 660 carbs? i bought a used oe set of carbs and i wanna go through them but i dont wanna use substandard seals and o rings, as i paid good money for the carbs so i dont mind spending a little more for good stuff
Buy the more expensive kit on ebay Not the cheaper kits Get name brand such as Moose, all balls, K&L, parts unlimited etc Moose for two carbs will be about $72 and that's a good kit
My started bogging down and a puttering at around 18 mph a while back. It accelerates fine up to 18 mph then starts misfiring. My reverse light stays on all the time which may have started about the same time but I’m not sure. My seatbelts are both latched together. This sounds like some kind of rev limiting issue. Where do I find these wires you are showing? Thanks
Hello, I had the problem that at low revs it was protected, I canceled the brake sensor and at low rpm it works fine but when accelerating it throws explosions again, if I cut the same cables that you think that fault will be eliminated?
Could that fault be something different? Like several colleagues it was thought that it was a carburetor and they have turned out to be cable failures to the cdi
Mine was running good today my exhaust bolt came loose so the exhaust fell off. I put the exhaust back on went running around then it started kind of backfiring and stalling out. Would only stay running if choke was on once choke was off it would cut back out. Won't start now unless choke is on. Never had an issue up until after the exhaust fell off
Make sure exhaust at head is sealed off, not leaking....you can hear it if it's leaking. And have your airbox lid on or off depending on how it has been setup and is jetted. Same with exhaust baffle You cannot take airbox lid off or baffle out without jetting richer (more fuel)
I recommend using the air box lid and i would raise the slide needles to give more fuel in the mid range and you do want the baffle in the exhaust pipe
My 05 Raptor 660 idles great but trouble reving and will die when I touch the throttle. Will this fix that? The previous owner deleted the parking brake if that means anything
@@Kevin_Yagooniebro did you fix this? I have the exact same problem 06 660 no parking brake but as soon as I touch the rev it backfires misses and cuts off!? Did you fix it? Any update??
@@HaidarAli-sk6kh yes I got it running top notch. I did a carb clean and total carb rebuild using a Dynojet kit and OEM parts from partzilla. Went with 146/148 jets and 25 pilot jets and needle clip set to 3rd notch. Also I replaced all carb boots because mine had rips and cracks in them. You also want to make sure you have the OEM Mikuni carbs. Them eBay/Amazon cheap ones always have problems
@@justgettnit614 disable rev limiter, park brake switch, clutch switch, and the obvious like carbs jetted right, valve springs not old and weak, etc. If you just changed something, start there. ..many will remove air box lid or open up exhaust pipe. When done, more fuel must be added to match the air added. The diaphragms on top of slides must be sealed and have no holes.
what about the other end of that, by the handlebars? I deleted the parking brake and put on the PB Block-off plate, but not sure what to do with that sensor that was incorporated into the PB handle. Every video I watched had a different fix. Your vids are the easiest and most helpful for the 660 and before I cut the green wire, I'm wondering if the problem can be fixed by the handlebars somehow. Thanks again Brother. Enjoy the drum vids too
Well, doing it at the cdi box eliminates the possibility of having probs within the wiring harness. I just prefer to delete it right at the source rather than 4' of wiring down the road
So then I can pull off all the crap at the handlebars? Guys are talking about filling the white electric plug in front (where that pressure switch leads to on left side of steering stem) with caulking and using jumper wires and stuff. I prefer not to do that. Your way definitely is cleaner and easier
One more question - the wiring schematic shows those gr/wh and Gr/yellow wires going to rev. switch and park switch as you said. They both have grounds as well - diagram shows them wired up the exact same, just to their respective switches. My question is how come I don’t need to ground both? You said cut it and leave it be, but solder a wire and run to neg cable on other one. Why the difference? Thanks again for taking the time to help. Stay safe brother
I cleaned my carb, changed settings on it everything I could think of, just to find this video after and it be my only problem! Thank you!
DID IT WORK?
WOW, been struggling with my raptor for months… took 5 minutes and fixed it. Thank you so much
You are very welcome
DID IT WORK?
Literally an answer to my prayer thank you! This fixed it, I just got a raptor for $1100 with this issue today Thanks!
Welcome!
DID IT WORK?
@@Mark69Z28 yes I have a video on my TH-cam that goes thru what I did
@@CarlosC77 ill watch thank you
and where should I connect the counter cable to show the engine speed?
I’m having trouble getting full throttle cuts out and mine grounded it’s only full throttle it cuts out and won’t die just will cut out wasn’t sure if that have something do with wiring issue or what exactly it might be I’ve watched all your vids abt the 660’ and you’re abt only person come to for questions.
Be sure to run the airbox lid
What year is this raptor. I'm trying to do the samething but my wires are different colors and there not on the same connector on the cdi?
Ever figure this out? Same situation here
Sabes dónde puedo conseguir el diagrama eléctrico de esta misma moto?
I have an 01 660 so my harness is different idk what to snip
my raptor runs fine, has an improve that keeps the button pushed, but the problem is at idlie , my engine stops aleatory like i'm turning it off by key.... what shoud i do ?
Same here
Have you find out why yet?
I did this but mine is still like banging out around half to 3/4 throttle
This work with Yamaha rhino 700fi?
How do we add a wire to the wire already connected to the CDI im not really an electrical person?
Cut the wire then solder in a new piece, or you join with " butt connectors"
It's a ground wire (not hot) so no need to worry about shorts
Graças a vc ,vc me ajudou muito no problema que eu estava com o meu Yamaha raptor 660 agradecido
So I have a quick question I have a raptor 660 and I want to remove the parking brake mechanism along with adding a , ASV C6 clutch lever perch !
I noticed the two wires that maybe go to the clutch perch?
I was wondering if I can just unplug them ? I don’t have pics at the moment any advice would be great I have learned quite a bit from your videos and I am also gonna be doing a 686 big bore kit with cosmetic top end gaskets and studs so I will need to send me carbs to you to have them dialed in ! I reside i. Michigan thanks moto man
I don't remember off top of my head, but pretty sure just unplug wires on perch. It is either those two wires touching or not touching, and you will know if you have it wrong because it will sputter and not run good
Also I just tried to install a aftermarket clutch from bp racing and they told me not to run the jutter spring so I didn’t.
Got it all back together and when I put in first gear it stalls, and when I hold in the clutch I can’t find all the other gears it won’t shift into the gears!
I am stumped.
I hope you can guide me three it.
Thanks for the advice I got the perch figured out.
Thank you had an issue on mine. It was like the ignition was turning on and off but now its fixed thanks a bunch it's back ripping now
What was your bike doing before?
DID IT WORK?
My 01 the wires are in different locations the 2 wires mentioned are on separate plugs . The green with white wire is on the opposite side of cdi is that still the correct wire to ground?
Not sure, just google it on your year model
Hello I was wondering if you knew any way to make a 660 raptor start in any gear with clutch pulled in because mine has to be in neutral to start
The neutral light wire on low left of engine, ground it
@@geezermoto7820 thank you sir
hey man! where is the best place to get just a basic gasket and oring kit for my raptor 660 carbs? i bought a used oe set of carbs and i wanna go through them but i dont wanna use substandard seals and o rings, as i paid good money for the carbs so i dont mind spending a little more for good stuff
Buy the more expensive kit on ebay
Not the cheaper kits
Get name brand such as
Moose, all balls, K&L, parts unlimited etc
Moose for two carbs will be about $72 and that's a good kit
My started bogging down and a puttering at around 18 mph a while back. It accelerates fine up to 18 mph then starts misfiring. My reverse light stays on all the time which may have started about the same time but I’m not sure. My seatbelts are both latched together. This sounds like some kind of rev limiting issue. Where do I find these wires you are showing? Thanks
Near from batery in the cdi computer
Hello, I had the problem that at low revs it was protected, I canceled the brake sensor and at low rpm it works fine but when accelerating it throws explosions again, if I cut the same cables that you think that fault will be eliminated?
Doing that is a great place to start
Could that fault be something different? Like several colleagues it was thought that it was a carburetor and they have turned out to be cable failures to the cdi
hello, my raptor 660 quadricycle is doing the same thing as yours at low rpm it works fine, but if I speed it up it causes explosions.
The question is what did you do to eliminate this problem?
Were you able to eliminate your ATV problem?
Gotta 660r wit racing cdi box at top speed wide open it jus cuts off then takes a while to start back up?
With same box has it ever run ok?
Hi there! Any updates?
Mine was running good today my exhaust bolt came loose so the exhaust fell off. I put the exhaust back on went running around then it started kind of backfiring and stalling out. Would only stay running if choke was on once choke was off it would cut back out. Won't start now unless choke is on. Never had an issue up until after the exhaust fell off
Make sure exhaust at head is sealed off, not leaking....you can hear it if it's leaking.
And have your airbox lid on or off depending on how it has been setup and is jetted.
Same with exhaust baffle
You cannot take airbox lid off or baffle out without jetting richer (more fuel)
It works fine but im having trouble with mid range it sounds like it going die in mid rev
I recommend using the air box lid and i would raise the slide needles to give more fuel in the mid range and you do want the baffle in the exhaust pipe
My 05 Raptor 660 idles great but trouble reving and will die when I touch the throttle. Will this fix that? The previous owner deleted the parking brake if that means anything
Did you figure out the problem
@@Cam-jv8lc unfortunately not yet. I have it stored for winter and haven't got to work on it
@@Cam-jv8lc I've read it can either be a carb issue or replace the coil and coil boot with a new spark plug
@@Kevin_Yagooniebro did you fix this? I have the exact same problem 06 660 no parking brake but as soon as I touch the rev it backfires misses and cuts off!? Did you fix it? Any update??
@@HaidarAli-sk6kh yes I got it running top notch. I did a carb clean and total carb rebuild using a Dynojet kit and OEM parts from partzilla. Went with 146/148 jets and 25 pilot jets and needle clip set to 3rd notch. Also I replaced all carb boots because mine had rips and cracks in them. You also want to make sure you have the OEM Mikuni carbs. Them eBay/Amazon cheap ones always have problems
So after doing this the reverse light won’t come on?
You are correct
do you know how to test the same cdi box? and if so can you make a video. I can't find one anywhere
You can't. You make sure everything is right, last ditch thing is new cdi box
ok thanks. appreciate it!
@@justgettnit614 disable rev limiter, park brake switch, clutch switch, and the obvious like carbs jetted right, valve springs not old and weak, etc.
If you just changed something, start there.
..many will remove air box lid or open up exhaust pipe. When done, more fuel must be added to match the air added. The diaphragms on top of slides must be sealed and have no holes.
what about the other end of that, by the handlebars? I deleted the parking brake and put on the PB Block-off plate, but not sure what to do with that sensor that was incorporated into the PB handle. Every video I watched had a different fix. Your vids are the easiest and most helpful for the 660 and before I cut the green wire, I'm wondering if the problem can be fixed by the handlebars somehow. Thanks again Brother. Enjoy the drum vids too
Well, doing it at the cdi box eliminates the possibility of having probs within the wiring harness. I just prefer to delete it right at the source rather than 4' of wiring down the road
And thanks! Lol
So then I can pull off all the crap at the handlebars? Guys are talking about filling the white electric plug in front (where that pressure switch leads to on left side of steering stem) with caulking and using jumper wires and stuff. I prefer not to do that. Your way definitely is cleaner and easier
@@Brian-mc4pd correct. The cdi is the source. Do it my way and toss all the handlebar baloney
One more question - the wiring schematic shows those gr/wh and Gr/yellow wires going to rev. switch and park switch as you said. They both have grounds as well - diagram shows them wired up the exact same, just to their respective switches. My question is how come I don’t need to ground both? You said cut it and leave it be, but solder a wire and run to neg cable on other one. Why the difference? Thanks again for taking the time to help. Stay safe brother
My Raptor 660 has different wire locations on those plugs. The 4 pin has only 1 wire and its green//yellow. The green/white is in the 8 pin.
Hey bud I got the same wiring . Did you end up figuring it out ? @david moore
Did y’all figure it out ?
Yeah whats the fix to this!?
Mine is 01 and same as yours wondering the same thing I've don't what was said in video still cutting out
Does the reverse rev limiter only affect things while in reverse ?
Yes
Thank you sir!
Welcome!!
Thank you brother
How rhino 660 06
I’m going to give this a try my raptor is doing the same thing I thought it was the carb had it fully rebuilt still doing the same
How did it work for you ?
@@getting_2it604 mine was actually the carb itself that was messed up replaced it with an eBay one and put a dyno jet kit runs great now
Bro, you are a fucking master! Thanks man! It worked like a charm
Is there a way I can message you I’m having this kind of problem with my 2001 660
hawgsnrice@gmail.com
@@geezermoto7820bro can I contact you too? I got problem with my 06 660 cuts off when I touch the rev misses too
What if they are jumping into reverse on their own?
if when you are down shifting, need to adjust reverse lock out cable. otherwise, probably bad shift forks in tranny
Thanks
I did that to mine and oh man! It made it worse so it didnt work for me!
Must of done wrong wire
Rhino 660 06
rip n azz
How rhino 660 06