I bought these tweezersa month ago. Used it once and since then never used again. It's not getting hot enough to remove SMDs. Even when I use low melt solder to lower down the melting temp it's not hot enough to remove it. They are not gettint hotter than 220 degrees Celsius.
Seems like a really nice tool for desoldering parts, but I can't imagine that it's really appropriate to pick up the new part with the iron and then place it on the pcb. A resistor might not mind the prolonged heat too much, but a cap might be complaining a bit. Can you try to use the iron by placing the part with tweezers and then hit it with the iron? And how would it work on a pcb with clean/unsoldered pads? And how awesome would it be if they had wide enough spade tips for removing SOIC's? ^__^
I did some soldering with them on regular pads with paste. I only picked the parts up with the iron since there was so much solder on the board. I do agree ..these are best for desoldering. .. that's where I plan to use them. It is cool that they can do double duty
I bought one of these tweezers heat up for 5 minutes before fail one heater. My solution was to remove the 120 volts heaters change for 24 volts Hakko style heaters and use an old Hakko temperature controller. I change the tips for a better tips. Now my tweezers works perfect.
Yeah, but no! I have one of these and they do not work well because of two reasons: 1. The tips are round and you can't pick up the components easily they will drop off or snap away. 2: It only has 40 something watts of power and most SMD caps are connected to a ground plain or similar and the round tips and limited power will make these almost impossible to remove. Proper hot tweezers are very expensive and have a different shape... I reshaped the tips with a little hammer to make them square and they do work a lot better that way though.
I have a good quality hot tweezers, I bought one of these for testing. Mine fail after 5 minutes of use, I decide to modificate it. I remove the heater elements for two 24 volts heaters, after this I put a conector for use with an old 936 hakko clone. Finally I bought a new tips. I have one years using without any problem.
Useful soldering tweezer design must have two direct inductance heating tips like C115, C245 or T12 with knife or chisel tips and independent temperature control for each tip. Only these can support adequate heating at both sides. That is why brand soldering tweezers like JBC PA120 alone without soldering station behind them are SO damn expensive. All other variants are duds. I have Yihua 938D and don't use them anymore. They turned out as complete disappointment. Thermal transfer to tips here happen in same way than in Hakko 9xx compatible tips with external heater that is not exactly good for such use case. Needle tips are too small for proper heat transfer when soldering anything SMD above 0603 and even with 0603 they struggle. Also needle tips have bad grip with solderable component (someone below already said that). When temperature finally is high enough, flux evaporate too soon (common issue for all needle tips). Plus it is nearly impossible to adjust both tips together in same plane properly. They either get loose or dislodge by metal expansion on temparature rise. Conclusion - it is rubbish.
I once bought the Hakko FX-8804 tweezers in the time I still had FX-888D as my main station. Huge clumsey stuff hard to allign and indirect heating. The one you have there is huge and indirect heating as well. Not sure how hard they're to allign. Still I love hot tweezers like hell so I went for the JBC Nase 2C. If you do a lot of soldering with two pole smd packages it's really worth the crazy price. They're tiny so you actually have control over what you do. Hakko does have nano tweezers as well. But if you only needed to do these few PCBs I wouldn't invest in the pro stuff. I'd get a big knife or chizzle tip to attack the resistor from the side, or a hot air station. Soldering is creativity with the tools you have. More often than not you can do more with the gear you have than you think :)
Yeah. I don't get these out unless I'm doing a lot of the same thing and often that's repair with these. There are a bunch of Arduino shields that need a resistor replaced because they always ship with the wrong one. I do 10 at a time, and these are really helpful for that.
I bought the WEP version not knowing there are 2 different versions WEP & Yihua.😳 I'm not sure if there is any difference, they look the same. They recently changed the label color from black to blue for some reason.🤔 I used them only 6 or 7 times (after warranty had expired). Then one day I needed them to do a repair and they just gave an error message.🤬Have to troubleshoot & see if I can determine what failed. Disappointed & PO'd to say the very least. When they worked they did a decent job for the price. Save your money & buy the $200 ones.
Sorry you had that experience. I wouldn't be surprised if they were basically the same ones eternally. Mine still work but obviously everyone's experience is different
this is just a double soldering iron. i mean should not place the component with it. you shoud use a regular tweezers for placing and then apply heat on both sides a the same time with the double soldering iron. some flux will be good
Err....I may be wrong but isn't that resistor (R8) the current limiter for the backlight LED? There is more than one version of the 1602 so maybe your 'test' screen was different to these?
It is. Most of them work with 3 volt logic anyway... The problem is the backlight. Some of them you can cut that resistor in half and the backlight will be brighter and sufficient. I bought one and it worked... And then the next batch did not.
@@AnotherMaker Oh. Sorry, I didn't hear any mention of the backlight being the problem, you made it sound more like the whole device wouldn't work. I guess it depends on your interpretation of the word 'scrren', for you it meant the backlight, for me it meant device....ho hum. Sorry for the confusion.
This tool is useful for diy project but on Actual board with high density smd parts the tips design isn't ideal, the hot tips touch and melt other components and those mounted on large ground plane cannot be dismounted but if you have hot air station is complements doing the job
There worth the money, I bought a pair myself but that flex IS A PROBLEM!! Use lady like hands don't get macho with them or you'll be chucking chips out the window towards your neighbor.!! Weller gets 380 dollars minimum for a entry level hot tweezers rig but reason is there is NO FLEX what so ever in their stuff. It's worth the 330 dollar savings to keep a conscious mind of not OVER SQUEEZING the 50 dollar rig. What ever you do always re rosin and retin the tip before putting it away. My first set of tips rotted pretty quick so I youtube searched for a solution and low and behold all the big daddy's out their swear buy re tinning just before shut-down. So far no tip cancer showing up.
That is how Chinese garage artisans test various bussiness ideas in our expense. No practical use though. IF they would make something similar with double C115 or C210 tips for Aixun T3A station, I would buy it. Otherwise - nah.
I bought these tweezersa month ago. Used it once and since then never used again. It's not getting hot enough to remove SMDs. Even when I use low melt solder to lower down the melting temp it's not hot enough to remove it. They are not gettint hotter than 220 degrees Celsius.
Seems like a really nice tool for desoldering parts, but I can't imagine that it's really appropriate to pick up the new part with the iron and then place it on the pcb. A resistor might not mind the prolonged heat too much, but a cap might be complaining a bit.
Can you try to use the iron by placing the part with tweezers and then hit it with the iron? And how would it work on a pcb with clean/unsoldered pads?
And how awesome would it be if they had wide enough spade tips for removing SOIC's? ^__^
I did some soldering with them on regular pads with paste. I only picked the parts up with the iron since there was so much solder on the board. I do agree ..these are best for desoldering. .. that's where I plan to use them. It is cool that they can do double duty
I bought one of these tweezers heat up for 5 minutes before fail one heater.
My solution was to remove the 120 volts heaters change for 24 volts Hakko style heaters and use an old Hakko temperature controller.
I change the tips for a better tips.
Now my tweezers works perfect.
Yeah, but no! I have one of these and they do not work well because of two reasons: 1. The tips are round and you can't pick up the components easily they will drop off or snap away. 2: It only has 40 something watts of power and most SMD caps are connected to a ground plain or similar and the round tips and limited power will make these almost impossible to remove. Proper hot tweezers are very expensive and have a different shape... I reshaped the tips with a little hammer to make them square and they do work a lot better that way though.
I did think about flattening the tips a bit, but they worked for me pretty well as is
I have a good quality hot tweezers, I bought one of these for testing.
Mine fail after 5 minutes of use, I decide to modificate it.
I remove the heater elements for two 24 volts heaters, after this I put a conector for use with an old 936 hakko clone.
Finally I bought a new tips.
I have one years using without any problem.
Useful soldering tweezer design must have two direct inductance heating tips like C115, C245 or T12 with knife or chisel tips and independent temperature control for each tip. Only these can support adequate heating at both sides. That is why brand soldering tweezers like JBC PA120 alone without soldering station behind them are SO damn expensive. All other variants are duds. I have Yihua 938D and don't use them anymore. They turned out as complete disappointment. Thermal transfer to tips here happen in same way than in Hakko 9xx compatible tips with external heater that is not exactly good for such use case. Needle tips are too small for proper heat transfer when soldering anything SMD above 0603 and even with 0603 they struggle. Also needle tips have bad grip with solderable component (someone below already said that). When temperature finally is high enough, flux evaporate too soon (common issue for all needle tips). Plus it is nearly impossible to adjust both tips together in same plane properly. They either get loose or dislodge by metal expansion on temparature rise. Conclusion - it is rubbish.
I could see that. I definitely wouldn't use them for production. I use them a lot for desoldering
I once bought the Hakko FX-8804 tweezers in the time I still had FX-888D as my main station. Huge clumsey stuff hard to allign and indirect heating. The one you have there is huge and indirect heating as well. Not sure how hard they're to allign.
Still I love hot tweezers like hell so I went for the JBC Nase 2C.
If you do a lot of soldering with two pole smd packages it's really worth the crazy price. They're tiny so you actually have control over what you do. Hakko does have nano tweezers as well.
But if you only needed to do these few PCBs I wouldn't invest in the pro stuff. I'd get a big knife or chizzle tip to attack the resistor from the side, or a hot air station.
Soldering is creativity with the tools you have. More often than not you can do more with the gear you have than you think :)
Yeah. I don't get these out unless I'm doing a lot of the same thing and often that's repair with these. There are a bunch of Arduino shields that need a resistor replaced because they always ship with the wrong one. I do 10 at a time, and these are really helpful for that.
@@AnotherMaker Never change a winning team :)
Glad you shared the video, I am sincerely interested in this tool!
Glad it was helpful!
I bought the WEP version not knowing there are 2 different versions WEP & Yihua.😳 I'm not sure if there is any difference, they look the same. They recently changed the label color from black to blue for some reason.🤔 I used them only 6 or 7 times (after warranty had expired). Then one day I needed them to do a repair and they just gave an error message.🤬Have to troubleshoot & see if I can determine what failed. Disappointed & PO'd to say the very least. When they worked they did a decent job for the price. Save your money & buy the $200 ones.
Sorry you had that experience. I wouldn't be surprised if they were basically the same ones eternally. Mine still work but obviously everyone's experience is different
this is just a double soldering iron. i mean should not place the component with it. you shoud use a regular tweezers for placing and then apply heat on both sides a the same time with the double soldering iron. some flux will be good
I only placed them with it since there were already blobs of solder on the board
Soldering tweezers ARE double soldering iron AFAIK. These though are complete rubbish.
Err....I may be wrong but isn't that resistor (R8) the current limiter for the backlight LED? There is more than one version of the 1602 so maybe your 'test' screen was different to these?
It is. Most of them work with 3 volt logic anyway... The problem is the backlight. Some of them you can cut that resistor in half and the backlight will be brighter and sufficient. I bought one and it worked... And then the next batch did not.
@@AnotherMaker Oh. Sorry, I didn't hear any mention of the backlight being the problem, you made it sound more like the whole device wouldn't work. I guess it depends on your interpretation of the word 'scrren', for you it meant the backlight, for me it meant device....ho hum. Sorry for the confusion.
Two pencil soldering irons do the job much more economically. Less cumbersome too.
a K tip can heat both sides.
Winner winner chicken dinner, that is a nice piece of kit!! I Like it
Yeah. I don't think I'll use them every day, but they're really nice.
They're 100% for removing two pin SMD components from board, they're awful for trying to solder anything, and they're not meant for it :)
its been 8months are they still woring well or are they damaged?
Mine still works. I use them to desolder things all the time.
This tool is useful for diy project but on
Actual board with high density smd parts the tips design isn't ideal, the hot tips touch and melt other components and those mounted on large ground plane cannot be dismounted but if you have hot air station is complements doing the job
Yeah. I could see that. I'd never use it for production
just a heads up' JBC version is near $500 & has had poor reviews .................
Metcal, Weller and Hakko have very good quality tweezers.
Wowser. That works great.
It really does
I want one of these
There worth the money, I bought a pair myself but that flex IS A PROBLEM!! Use lady like hands don't get macho with them or you'll be chucking chips out the window towards your neighbor.!! Weller gets 380 dollars minimum for a entry level hot tweezers rig but reason is there is NO FLEX what so ever in their stuff. It's worth the 330 dollar savings to keep a conscious mind of not OVER SQUEEZING the 50 dollar rig. What ever you do always re rosin and retin the tip before putting it away. My first set of tips rotted pretty quick so I youtube searched for a solution and low and behold all the big daddy's out their swear buy re tinning just before shut-down. So far no tip cancer showing up.
I want one :(
these are great for plucking atray eyebrows
Looks like a prototype
Haha. Well I used two soldering irons in 2 hands, so it's better than my prototype
That is how Chinese garage artisans test various bussiness ideas in our expense. No practical use though. IF they would make something similar with double C115 or C210 tips for Aixun T3A station, I would buy it. Otherwise - nah.
your like a kid in a candy store lol
haha thank you. It's pretty fun over here.
DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY...
I like them, but they do have limited uses.
let me save your time , garbage tweezers, bought them 2 years ago. USELESS GARBAGE.