I'm in college for carpentry at the moment and my tutor recommended your channel to me for extra learning. This is a great tip and I can't wait to try it out!
I see some a comment has referred to this method as back to the middle ages, some times the old ways are the best ways as Robin has just shown you can't miss read any thing this way, but you would be fumbling around with a tape. Thanks for sharing for those that need it.
What you didn't say, but imply is that the problem with using measuring squares, is often that though you measure the closest corner you are not really comparing corner to corner. You really only measure the first corner and rely on the straightness of the side to be accurate. To me it seems like diagonal measurements are always better when you build a square shape. Often the straightness of the sides are also less important, while diagonal is almost always an absolute. I love your tips and tricks on putting away the tape measure. Please upload more!
Another solid video Robin, good to see old school techniques for accurate results, hope there’s plenty of young ppl on this channel to learn something simple but effective 👍
Excellent video Robin, I still teach this method at our local college. I started out as an apprentice making furniture shall we say a long time ago and when we assembled furniture we always squared up using this method, and to this day I can't think of a better method.We used to call it a pinch rod/stick method.
Hi Robin that took me back to the joinery days with squaring up casements, windows and alike you would always have two of different sizes standing next to the tool box, we would cut the bottom out of the rod along the length, have a awesome weekend all the best Tony 👍
Another easy way is 3 4 5, measure a triangle with 30cm side and 40cm side and when you measure 50cm between the 2 in diagonal it will be square, you can use what ever length as long as they are based on the same rule 3 4 5, as an example: 120 160 200
Equal diagonals, the oldest and best way to square things up from small boxes to large foundations. 👍 On site we’d either have to work out the diagonal length to square the base up or ask the site engineer for it .
Many thanks Robin. Had to laugh that you already had it nearly perfectly square being a top joiner etc (In fact you seem to be top expert at all the trades.) Funny I wouldn't have thought of the piles. Please keep sharing.
The 'old skool' diagonal rod for squaring things up works a treat - used to use it all the time for bench made doors and windows. As for the slabs - done a lot in my time - 150mm on compacted crushed with rebar is more than sufficient - unless you've got really soft ground that warrants the screws???
Hello Robin I just had to subscribe after searching how to make a shed and one of your videos came up on skilbuilder , you explain everything so well and after me doing diy for 40 years I’m leaning so much from your tips and tricks ( scarf joint) etc . Btw the other bloke you sometimes make videos with ..looks like Bradley Walsh and talks like Jason stratham lol what a great team
Another great vid there’s some haters about with the screws saying there to expensive but if it’s easier and will stop any movement in the future then why not
Here is one request Robin, could you do a video around permissible joist spacing UK building regs, nail gun nails and how many and how large to use for timber framing, and any tips and tricks? Thanks again, Jack West Yorkshire
People often lay concrete with the rebar lying on the ground. That is worse than useless because the steel has to be buried in the concrete. Either support the rebar (as Robin did on the screw piles) or press it into the already laid concrete and push it 1/2 way down.
I’m a tiler snd squaring up down to the mm is important. Your a top guy and a top worker so I know you can you show us a modern day of squaring up or another method you have used and found successful. Even a sheet of 8 x 4 would be a hot tip on the ground, there is always some of that on site. #Tilepro2020
Hi Robin I'm looking for a clamp gauge for weatherboarding. Seen the gecko Gauge, but it only suitable for hardie board?, didn't know if you've come across any product suitable. Thanks keep up the good work on TH-cam
Hi Robin, By using those screws and the slab does the slab bind into one and transfer the load through the piles? Also would I want to put a few bits of rebar chem fixed to the other slab or should this one be left to move freely? Thanks, Eliot.
Robin, let me first say that I love your channel and I have learned a lot from watching them. I like to try and built stuff myself but do lack some skills. Just recently built my own small workshop as I couldn't afford to get it done by someone else. When installing the inside sheeting I thought I had spaced out the framing to be able to accommodate full 2.4m sheets but I had to end up cutting them to fit. What mistake did I do?
hey mate just adding a comment here as i am a builder but based on what you said id imagine you might not have spaced out the centres of your studs correctly? did you space your studs at 600 centres to accomodate the size of your sheets (2.4m)?
Would be cheaper but he is "buying time" which they don't make any more of. Doing it the old way he would have to dig it out possibly by hand as it is only a small job and getting a mini digger may not be cost effective and could mess up the surrounding land. He then has to get rid off the spoil bring in mot and get a whacker on it. So he has saved half a day and also if he is anything like me has also bought more "pleasure" ,for want of a better term, in doing the job. After all some jobs if you think before hand that you have all this hassell then you put it off, or the job ends up harder work than it should as you think all the time FFS I have other things to do (or maybe that is just me).
We are on clay and the new water thank when full will weigh close on a ton, I prefer to remove the surface soils and turf whack some of screwpiles and cast a reinforced slab over the top, we will also have the weight of the small structure that will also weigh in at about half a ton so by using these quick screws I will have no future issues of movement etc, your suggestion is perfect also and thanks for your comment Antony
Hi Robin , just a quick one. I'm an apprentice looking to get a skill saw to help with rafter cutting. I use the chop saw for my plumb cuts but would a 165mm skill saw have enough depth for a hip and Jack edge cut on a 2in timber? Cheers Eliot
Hi Elliot. You would need to step up to a 190mm blades. Modern brushless saws these days have the capability to cut through 45mm timber on the 45. Ive just purchased a Hilti cordless saw and even has the capability of tilting 50 degrees and still cuts through 45mm Robin uses a hikoki I believe it cuts through at 45 degrees. Bottom line bigger diameter blade. Hope this helps. Good luck with you’re apprenticeship.
If your talking about doing the compound cuts on the jack rafters etc then yes it should be deep enough you can always look at the specifications online. Have you any thoughts on which tool brand your going to go for? There are some good Black Friday tool deals coming up at places like ffx.
@@garethheathcote4988 I think Makita as I've got a few drills. I've seen the hikoki ones but I think for myself there a bit out of reach price wise as I not roofing all the time. Also I'd like a blade left saw.
The 3,4,5 method is great especially over large distances but this if by far the simplest and most accurate way to achieve square, thanks for watching Paul
Could you not just do the 3,4,5 trick?? where you measure 300mm oneside 400mm the otherside and then if it is square then it will measure 500mm across to both pencil marks
Yeah you could. But measuring corner to corner like he did gets it absolutely perfect. 3-4-5 can sometimes let you down in the field when building a large structure
Good idea if all the time in the world and some spare batten but I doubt you really do it this way every job it really is too much messing about when it's so much quicker measuring corner to corner and check with the 3,4,5 method or just use the modern laser
I was waiting for your comment, our tank is twin walled, it has a series of pumps, pressure vessels and other equipment, it is on its own steel base frame and its all this kit and the water that brings the weight up to nearly a ton, great observation Andrew
We use 3,4,5 also but for fast accurate squaring of frames and shutters a squaring rod is so accurate and fast and even if the sides are bowing the overall object is square allowing you to straighten the sides as needed after, its a traditional joinery technique that has stood the test of time!! Thank you for your comment
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
This is useful. Ive just been using the 3,4,5 trick for so long
I'm in college for carpentry at the moment and my tutor recommended your channel to me for extra learning. This is a great tip and I can't wait to try it out!
Welcome aboard!
I see some a comment has referred to this method as back to the middle ages, some times the old ways are the best ways as Robin has just shown you can't miss read any thing this way, but you would be fumbling around with a tape. Thanks for sharing for those that need it.
What you didn't say, but imply is that the problem with using measuring squares, is often that though you measure the closest corner you are not really comparing corner to corner. You really only measure the first corner and rely on the straightness of the side to be accurate. To me it seems like diagonal measurements are always better when you build a square shape. Often the straightness of the sides are also less important, while diagonal is almost always an absolute.
I love your tips and tricks on putting away the tape measure. Please upload more!
Another solid video Robin, good to see old school techniques for accurate results, hope there’s plenty of young ppl on this channel to learn something simple but effective 👍
Great tips from you as usual Robin. Thanks
Great to have access to a library of tips and work arounds - thank you
Robin, thanks very much for sharing this, really useful.
Nice tip Robin every day is a school day thanks for showing .
Excellent video Robin, I still teach this method at our local college. I started out as an apprentice making furniture shall we say a long time ago and when we assembled furniture we always squared up using this method, and to this day I can't think of a better method.We used to call it a pinch rod/stick method.
Hi Robin that took me back to the joinery days with squaring up casements, windows and alike you would always have two of different sizes standing next to the tool box, we would cut the bottom out of the rod along the length, have a awesome weekend all the best Tony 👍
yeh that simple and so useful in so many basic building tasks 👍
Nice Robin, simple and quick and very accurate.
Another easy way is 3 4 5, measure a triangle with 30cm side and 40cm side and when you measure 50cm between the 2 in diagonal it will be square, you can use what ever length as long as they are based on the same rule 3 4 5, as an example: 120 160 200
Just as the title says, simple but effective. Brilliant tip mate 👍
Equal diagonals, the oldest and best way to square things up from small boxes to large foundations. 👍 On site we’d either have to work out the diagonal length to square the base up or ask the site engineer for it .
Done plenty of these as said earlier 150mm
compacted 40mm down
1 layer mesh job done
You'll be using those screws under the stabbing next 😂👍
I have used the 3-4-5 method with a measuring tape but this technique seems to be more accurate and simpler. Thank you for sharing.
You are so welcome!
Many thanks Robin. Had to laugh that you already had it nearly perfectly square being a top joiner etc (In fact you seem to be top expert at all the trades.) Funny I wouldn't have thought of the piles. Please keep sharing.
The 'old skool' diagonal rod for squaring things up works a treat - used to use it all the time for bench made doors and windows. As for the slabs - done a lot in my time - 150mm on compacted crushed with rebar is more than sufficient - unless you've got really soft ground that warrants the screws???
Good tips - what a pro!!!
Hello Robin I just had to subscribe after searching how to make a shed and one of your videos came up on skilbuilder , you explain everything so well and after me doing diy for 40 years I’m leaning so much from your tips and tricks ( scarf joint) etc . Btw the other bloke you sometimes make videos with ..looks like Bradley Walsh and talks like Jason stratham lol what a great team
Beautiful robin this is how we square out door liners. I think I learnt that from you year's ago
Great tip. Simple and effective.
Another great vid there’s some haters about with the screws saying there to expensive but if it’s easier and will stop any movement in the future then why not
Every day is a school day thanks Robin
Here is one request Robin, could you do a video around permissible joist spacing UK building regs, nail gun nails and how many and how large to use for timber framing, and any tips and tricks? Thanks again, Jack West Yorkshire
Takes me back to my bench joining apprenticeship. Thanks for sharing.
Nice tips Robin, couldn’t be simpler. Cheers for that 👍
That plaster on that window reveal looks 👌😂
Glad to see you back on the job mate 👍
It does!
Great piece of advice. Thanks Robin
Thanks Shaun, and thank you for always commenting and supporting my channel, I appreciate it!!
People often lay concrete with the rebar lying on the ground. That is worse than useless because the steel has to be buried in the concrete. Either support the rebar (as Robin did on the screw piles) or press it into the already laid concrete and push it 1/2 way down.
Same way I do my door liners. Thanks for the videos robin 👍 🔨
I’m a tiler snd squaring up down to the mm is important. Your a top guy and a top worker so I know you can you show us a modern day of squaring up or another method you have used and found successful. Even a sheet of 8 x 4 would be a hot tip on the ground, there is always some of that on site. #Tilepro2020
Great tips as always thank you.
Amazing, thanks!
Nice one Boss!!!
Spot on mate
Exactly how I was taught many moons ago, still use it now
Very clever thank u
Or use the 3 4 5 method
Great video thanks
Hi Robin
I'm looking for a clamp gauge for weatherboarding. Seen the gecko Gauge, but it only suitable for hardie board?, didn't know if you've come across any product suitable. Thanks keep up the good work on TH-cam
Excellent tip 👍
Glad you think so!
That helped me lot thanks m8
I used to set out buildings with 3’, 4’, 5’ method. Same but different. 😂👍🏻
Hi Robin,
By using those screws and the slab does the slab bind into one and transfer the load through the piles? Also would I want to put a few bits of rebar chem fixed to the other slab or should this one be left to move freely?
Thanks, Eliot.
You seem to of been to a better college than me robin 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Robin, let me first say that I love your channel and I have learned a lot from watching them. I like to try and built stuff myself but do lack some skills. Just recently built my own small workshop as I couldn't afford to get it done by someone else. When installing the inside sheeting I thought I had spaced out the framing to be able to accommodate full 2.4m sheets but I had to end up cutting them to fit. What mistake did I do?
hey mate just adding a comment here as i am a builder but based on what you said id imagine you might not have spaced out the centres of your studs correctly? did you space your studs at 600 centres to accomodate the size of your sheets (2.4m)?
It is better to put a packer under those batons to make it easier to get a trowel underneath the baton , Great tip as always.
Any news on the balancing speed / quality of work video robin?
Same way sashs are squared up or any frame in a joinery shop
surely 100mm - 150mm of compacted hardcore/scalpings would be a lot cheaper than those screw piles ?
Would be cheaper but he is "buying time" which they don't make any more of. Doing it the old way he would have to dig it out possibly by hand as it is only a small job and getting a mini digger may not be cost effective and could mess up the surrounding land. He then has to get rid off the spoil bring in mot and get a whacker on it. So he has saved half a day and also if he is anything like me has also bought more "pleasure" ,for want of a better term, in doing the job. After all some jobs if you think before hand that you have all this hassell then you put it off, or the job ends up harder work than it should as you think all the time FFS I have other things to do (or maybe that is just me).
We are on clay and the new water thank when full will weigh close on a ton, I prefer to remove the surface soils and turf whack some of screwpiles and cast a reinforced slab over the top, we will also have the weight of the small structure that will also weigh in at about half a ton so by using these quick screws I will have no future issues of movement etc, your suggestion is perfect also and thanks for your comment Antony
@@ukconstruction cheers, just out of curiosity roughly how much are those screw piles ££ ??
@@shavenhaven6869 someone has to + I bet they aint cheap £ !!
ffs they are £80 each +vat ! thats nearly £400 !!!
Excellent video.
Thank you very much!
Very handy to know....: thanks!!
Hi Robin , just a quick one. I'm an apprentice looking to get a skill saw to help with rafter cutting. I use the chop saw for my plumb cuts but would a 165mm skill saw have enough depth for a hip and Jack edge cut on a 2in timber?
Cheers Eliot
Hi Elliot.
You would need to step up to a 190mm blades. Modern brushless saws these days have the capability to cut through 45mm timber on the 45. Ive just purchased a Hilti cordless saw and even has the capability of tilting 50 degrees and still cuts through 45mm
Robin uses a hikoki I believe it cuts through at 45 degrees.
Bottom line bigger diameter blade.
Hope this helps.
Good luck with you’re apprenticeship.
@@christaylor5291 Thanks Chris , I'll have a look at some 👍
@@garethheathcote4988 No worries , cheers
If your talking about doing the compound cuts on the jack rafters etc then yes it should be deep enough you can always look at the specifications online.
Have you any thoughts on which tool brand your going to go for?
There are some good Black Friday tool deals coming up at places like ffx.
@@garethheathcote4988 I think Makita as I've got a few drills. I've seen the hikoki ones but I think for myself there a bit out of reach price wise as I not roofing all the time. Also I'd like a blade left saw.
There's only Robin go to square something up and it's already square 😂 we don't expect any less
Awesome
Rough price of those quick foundation screws pls?
From about £60 each supplied and fitted, this all depends on no of screws/size etc
Robin, don’t say it, don’t say it, don’t say it, don’t say it, ungulate. Shit I said it 🤦🏼♂️
Good video mate always look forward to them 👍🏻
I said it just for you mate!!!
As always you construct a job to last; 600Lt is a lot of weight; simple trade tip no special tools; keep doing it fella!!
I usually start with a little swearing and name calling 😂 usually ends up with a square up ,and me getting beat up
Hi robin, would the 3,4,5 method work to square up or is this not as accurate as the battens??
The 3,4,5 method is great especially over large distances but this if by far the simplest and most accurate way to achieve square, thanks for watching Paul
Thanks Robin.
Could you not just do the 3,4,5 trick?? where you measure 300mm oneside 400mm the otherside and then if it is square then it will measure 500mm across to both pencil marks
Yeah you could. But measuring corner to corner like he did gets it absolutely perfect. 3-4-5 can sometimes let you down in the field when building a large structure
Nice one
Robin Have you bought your own machinery to put those piles in ?
See this video for more on installing the screws, he mentions cost in one of the comments too th-cam.com/video/BeU7dzlh6wk/w-d-xo.html
Hi Stephen, This machinery is from my good mate Gil at Gravitas Ground Screws he just let me have a go!!!!
Simple joinery and simple mathematics! Maths put to everyday use - I hope students are watching!
Perfect for door linings 👍
Obvs never got baton from pgr
Good idea if all the time in the world and some spare batten but I doubt you really do it this way every job it really is too much messing about when it's so much quicker measuring corner to corner and check with the 3,4,5 method or just use the modern laser
👍
nice new LOGO
Hi 600 lts water will weigh 600kgs, a 1m x1m x1m cube of water weighs 1000kg
I was waiting for your comment, our tank is twin walled, it has a series of pumps, pressure vessels and other equipment, it is on its own steel base frame and its all this kit and the water that brings the weight up to nearly a ton, great observation Andrew
3/4/5?
We use 3,4,5 also but for fast accurate squaring of frames and shutters a squaring rod is so accurate and fast and even if the sides are bowing the overall object is square allowing you to straighten the sides as needed after, its a traditional joinery technique that has stood the test of time!! Thank you for your comment
3,4,5 method
Back to to the Middle ages with Mr cleverclogs
Mr Cleverclogs who just built his own fucking house with his 'middle ages' techniques!
couldnt you just 3/4/5 it and check diagonals ?
This is more accurate and quicker than a tape that can slip and is floppy if you are one your own
@@ukconstruction Nothing worse than a floppy tape Richard!!!
I just eye stuff in!!!
Same! But we both know we should probably have a measure up!!!!
@@chrisacres Na! If it’s out knock it about a bit! Job done!!!
@@jasonantigua6825 who am I kidding. Quick tap with the adjustable and send it.
@@chrisacres Deffo
That's not a screw, that's a screw!!
Dudes a lil Jockey.
Or just whip out your folding square
Omg what a carry on . Get a tape