I get that they're chasing big swell, but man, just be happy there are waves to surf, even good waves. You aren't where you're supposed to be, but you can tomorrow. So just enjoy the surf today ffs. I'm getting so tired of this serious, self obsessed bullshit struggle about swell hunt. It's cool when they hit it, but showing some happiness and gratefulness on the way won't hurt. Also, might be stupid to say, but wouldn't binoculars help checking the waves from the beach? At least a little bit?
If people are passionate about finding good waves, and they love doing it, then why should they give a fuck? just because you, an outside party, are sick of what they are doing? mind your own business and live your own life mate, I'm sick of the judgement and bullshit that goes along with the surf scene, what people are wearing, their skill level, what obsessions they have, all of which are none of anyone else's business but their own, if it's not causing you harm then let it be. You don't own the surfing scene, and what is and isn't ok by other people's standards is all opinion. If these guys wanna hunt waves, good on them for being that passionate.
Ian’s not just “chasing big swell”....this is BUSINESS...he has to please his sponsors who are paying the bill to fly a camera crew, Ian & his friends to Japan. It’s not just very expensive airline tickets, hotel, food but, it’s also salaries for the camera crew, Ian, & other surfers as well as all the production team salaries that will turn all the clips into a video/movie plus future adverting money if it’s a movie that is released around the world. Ian is responsible to produce a video/movie to high light his trip which includes reading the wave/weather charts correction to get in the spot with big waves. Without a good BIG swell his sponsors might see it as a waste of THEIR money. Ian is a BIG wave surfer...so small wave video does not cut it. Without big waves his sponsors could cut his travel budget in the future or not sponsor him in the future. There is a lot of pressure on Ian not just to surf big waves but to keep his sponsors happy by producing an excellent video/movie to justify this trip. So give Ian a break he’s jet lags & stressed out about business while at the same time he has to focus on staying safe in these waves from a huge storm system. This is a very real behind the scenes pressure of all of these Big Wave surfers. There are not a lot of big wave sponsorships to be had so you need to please the sponsors by getting the job done efficiently, low budget and with big waves.
Thanks for the insightful comment @jan smith ... You're definitely right: it's not easy being a pro big wave surfer, but Ian has really mastered the game and at the end of the day, after all the business side of things, he still wants to be out there in the mix, catching the biggest waves.
When you get a really massive typhoon swell, Chiba is usually not the place to be (will become saturated), some reef breaks in Kanagawa will probably look much cleaner, and are even more of a gem when they wake up, since this area usually get less swell.
People need to calm down with saying Ian has some mental problem. He's just a serious dude not everyone is happy 24/7, he also obviously just has an RB Face exactly like me lol, just chill and enjoy the video.
Thank you for saying that. Bitching and moaning. Im saying dude is getting paid/sponsored to surf. While us regular working class are happy to be in 2 foot nuggets with 30 minutes of sun light left after a full day at work.
Some places in NorCal get gigantic and are fully ridable. Maybe 3 or 4 times a year. Problem is it's the most concentrated shark population in the world. Couple have rode it. There are hundreds of places around the world to be explored. So exiting for big wave travelers
I would be so stoked to score the waves these guys just did and go to Japan, not walking around pushing my bottom lip in a wheelbarrow. But I guess it's mostly for show?
Your demands that Ian act/behave/perform in a particular way is unfair. Why can you not appreciate him for who he is? Not everyone is comfortable with a stylized version of constantly being "on" for an audience's pleasure.
Surfing safari! Did it,Baja ca. Spring break 81. search, looking than finally. Sandy pt. Pt b rights ,long.... epic waves!!! Experience of a lifetime!! Sandeigo was awesome 197os 80,90. Dejavu!!!91X,air C D,FOUTHS, hydro boat race, delmar fair. shortly was a dude at every event parting out of control, Chris O roake best surfer and would of been World champion!! Nuff sed...aloha
+Matt Ryan CO2 cartridges are used to inflate their flotation vests they wear when surfing huge waves. If they get pushed underneath the water on 15+ foot waves, swimming up on your own is pretty hard so they press a button on the vest and it inflates from the CO2 cartidges
Red Bull probably didn't mind, they're the only ones pushing out core values of sports and great content... monster is the crap channel. TnA to sell their crap without any solid content.
Rob Hofer in the Video it says Kelly Slater (teenager) and three time world champ Tom Curren (USA) surfed the same place in 1991. The locals named it Currens point after Kelly and Tom smashed it to pieces in 1991 I guess....Cheers
There was actually a website (wannasurf, i think?) that literally said "It's called Curren's Point because it was first surfed by Tom Carroll". Always gave me a chuckle.
Should be fun surfing radioactive waves, talk about energy. Also nice to have the bank account to fly all over the world. For my generation going on a safari was like the first Endless Summer, lucky if you could pull it off
What a d-bag. Jeez. I like how they try to make it seem like he's so tormented. Finding some way to block out "the guy who said you couldn't take CO2 cartridges through customs." First world problems, bro.
Thank you for saying that. Bitching and moaning. Im saying dude is getting paid/sponsored to surf. While us regular working class are happy to be in 2 foot nuggets with 30 minutes of sun light left after a full day at work.
To all non-watermen out there, you must understand that swell chasing/surfing is an all consuming addiction. -Not a negative addiction, but a positive, healthy(mind & body), spiritual addiction....you really won’t understand, unless you’re a surfer.
God calls it "chasing the wind." And it's not literal, it's figuratively referencing vanity. All the good waves will be surfed in vain if you aren't Free in Jesus Christ. You can shut down your mind in the moment of a surf all you want, but you will not be able to shut out the reality of the heavy set of eternal Judgment that is coming after your # is up. If you love surfing more than Jesus, then you are an idolater & need to repent & believe & be saved & transformed. May God bless you with True Freedom.
Just once I want to read a comment section without somebody bringing up the guy who died and then came back to life like a zombie a couple of thousand years ago. Get real already , will ya?
@@jaydickey1049 Yeah right dude, like there's preaching in every comment section you see! Get real yourself! You'll see real on Judgment Day anyway. Repent & save yourself from your bad judgment!
@@FaithandActiondotnet Yes faith , there is preaching in pretty much every comment section.Decent people don't spend a lot of time sweating ' judgement day'', or have anything to ''repent'' for.Have you already had your judgement day? Must have, otherwise how could you know what's going to happen?
@@jaydickey1049 Well there should be preaching in every comment section! And you think yourself "decent" but you've broken many Laws of God haven't you? You know. And I know what's going to happen because God knows what's going to happen & He has told us in His Word, the Holy Bible. It's pretty simple, you should read it & believe.
I think there's not enough political correctness in surfing..there should be some affirmative action instituted so blacks and Browns,and yellows And females can do this lbgt also...let them have a chance..too many white males...they seem to be very aggressive too..oh yeah Ian seems mad because he's Irish ..
![Full Movie: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing - Greg Long, Gary Linden, Todd Glaser [HD]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/L-sF4nC-g0o/mqdefault.jpg)
the sight with the lines of massive waves is simply breathtaking
+André Turcati LOOK HERE mehdibenali.blogspot.com/
everything wrong with professional/ marketable surfing packed into one video
I get that they're chasing big swell, but man, just be happy there are waves to surf, even good waves. You aren't where you're supposed to be, but you can tomorrow. So just enjoy the surf today ffs. I'm getting so tired of this serious, self obsessed bullshit struggle about swell hunt. It's cool when they hit it, but showing some happiness and gratefulness on the way won't hurt.
Also, might be stupid to say, but wouldn't binoculars help checking the waves from the beach? At least a little bit?
They were scared and rightfully so. A typhoon/hurricane swell is no joke.
If people are passionate about finding good waves, and they love doing it, then why should they give a fuck? just because you, an outside party, are sick of what they are doing? mind your own business and live your own life mate, I'm sick of the judgement and bullshit that goes along with the surf scene, what people are wearing, their skill level, what obsessions they have, all of which are none of anyone else's business but their own, if it's not causing you harm then let it be. You don't own the surfing scene, and what is and isn't ok by other people's standards is all opinion. If these guys wanna hunt waves, good on them for being that passionate.
It's a payed documentary, they are not exactly going to say, ahh It doesn't matter, shall we go for a beer ?
Who are you, the Gratitude Police?
The place where they actually got in the water (second half of video) was Katsuura in Chiba Prefecture, not Miyazaki.
Ian’s not just “chasing big swell”....this is BUSINESS...he has to please his sponsors who are paying the bill to fly a camera crew, Ian & his friends to Japan. It’s not just very expensive airline tickets, hotel, food but, it’s also salaries for the camera crew, Ian, & other surfers as well as all the production team salaries that will turn all the clips into a video/movie plus future adverting money if it’s a movie that is released around the world.
Ian is responsible to produce a video/movie to high light his trip which includes reading the wave/weather charts correction to get in the spot with big waves. Without a good BIG swell his sponsors might see it as a waste of THEIR money. Ian is a BIG wave surfer...so small wave video does not cut it. Without big waves his sponsors could cut his travel budget in the future or not sponsor him in the future. There is a lot of pressure on Ian not just to surf big waves but to keep his sponsors happy by producing an excellent video/movie to justify this trip. So give Ian a break he’s jet lags & stressed out about business while at the same time he has to focus on staying safe in these waves from a huge storm system.
This is a very real behind the scenes pressure of all of these Big Wave surfers. There are not a lot of big wave sponsorships to be had so you need to please the sponsors by getting the job done efficiently, low budget and with big waves.
Thanks for the insightful comment @jan smith ... You're definitely right: it's not easy being a pro big wave surfer, but Ian has really mastered the game and at the end of the day, after all the business side of things, he still wants to be out there in the mix, catching the biggest waves.
When you get a really massive typhoon swell, Chiba is usually not the place to be (will become saturated), some reef breaks in Kanagawa will probably look much cleaner, and are even more of a gem when they wake up, since this area usually get less swell.
Check it out It's going to be friggin HUGE! Ah crap, it's small. Hey let's go to that other spot. Oh shit it's to big. Let's just go home.
Ian is a badass, straight up.
Holy slow motion and talking! Just show us some dang surfing
yep all B roll..
how do you even paddle out,those waves are huge
People need to calm down with saying Ian has some mental problem. He's just a serious dude not everyone is happy 24/7, he also obviously just has an RB Face exactly like me lol, just chill and enjoy the video.
Naw he’s a bit off
14 mins of moaning and a minute and a half of surf.
Yep. That about sums it up. Could have been so much more to the story too. Kinda ridiculous really.
Thank you for saying that. Bitching and moaning. Im saying dude is getting paid/sponsored to surf. While us regular working class are happy to be in 2 foot nuggets with 30 minutes of sun light left after a full day at work.
Some places in NorCal get gigantic and are fully ridable. Maybe 3 or 4 times a year. Problem is it's the most concentrated shark population in the world. Couple have rode it. There are hundreds of places around the world to be explored. So exiting for big wave travelers
Red Bull is amazing
Love watching surfing movies but this one just doesn't give me a good vibe
Way to serious.
Idle hands... waiting for some more JOB!
It's that time of year.
Nice movie
at 11:36 What a man. Stop talking and paddle out
Awesome make many more videos like this
Great video! You won my 'like' and 'subscription'. Cheers,
Thought that was Tom Cruise in the thumbnail for a second lol.
same
+PapaB92 he totally looks like cruise
Sameeeee
I would be so stoked to score the waves these guys just did and go to Japan, not walking around pushing my bottom lip in a wheelbarrow. But I guess it's mostly for show?
"not walking around pushing my bottom lip in a wheelbarrow"
Thank you for that!
Maui Boy! 👊🏽🏄🏽🌊
If he could learn to smile joke and laugh half as much as he can surf this would be a great vid.
Your demands that Ian act/behave/perform in a particular way is unfair. Why can you not appreciate him for who he is? Not everyone is comfortable with a stylized version of constantly being "on" for an audience's pleasure.
Surfing safari! Did it,Baja ca. Spring break 81. search, looking than finally. Sandy pt. Pt b rights ,long.... epic waves!!! Experience of a lifetime!! Sandeigo was awesome 197os 80,90. Dejavu!!!91X,air C D,FOUTHS, hydro boat race, delmar fair. shortly was a dude at every event parting out of control, Chris O roake best surfer and would of been World champion!! Nuff sed...aloha
nice mini docu
Awesome
energy
Ian Walsh's Gorgeous ❤ !
=]
12:50- all I could do was watch the photographer get sucked in lol that looks like a terrifying job lol
+A Ka he popped out the back.
+A Ka the photog was fine. Small wave :)
who was the long haired surfer? i was waiting for a close up the whole bloody time
Danny Fuller!!
Had no idea Tom Cruise was a wave chaser
This guys a bit cookoo
what do they mean by co2 cartridges at 12:32 ? does he mean the ones filled with marijuana concentrate?
+Matt Ryan CO2 cartridges are used to inflate their flotation vests they wear when surfing huge waves. If they get pushed underneath the water on 15+ foot waves, swimming up on your own is pretty hard so they press a button on the vest and it inflates from the CO2 cartidges
mmccarthy1992 i forgot about the vests... haha thanks for informing me though
Burgers...big burgers..dude..bro...just go😆
look at all those subs
lol sweet Monster hat
Red Bull probably didn't mind, they're the only ones pushing out core values of sports and great content... monster is the crap channel. TnA to sell their crap without any solid content.
+Aint1S IMHO...
+Aint1S pity their actual product is poisoning a generation
So 72 hours ‘not in Miyazaki’ then…
9:43 a guy in MONSTER hat.
thats his sponsor
Basically 15 minutes of getting skunked
Why is it named “Curren’s point”?
Rob Hofer in the Video it says Kelly Slater (teenager) and three time world champ Tom Curren (USA) surfed the same place in 1991. The locals named it Currens point after Kelly and Tom smashed it to pieces in 1991 I guess....Cheers
There was actually a website (wannasurf, i think?) that literally said "It's called Curren's Point because it was first surfed by Tom Carroll". Always gave me a chuckle.
In surfing lore: if you genuinely are the first person to surf that particular spot... you have the rite to name it.
tuckies broooo!!!
Are they surfers or weather scientists?
I can guarantee you were taken to the best spot in Miyazaki if Currens was breaking..
I barely get surf where i stay and i surf watever the conditions are you guys being chickens doing this 😂😂
I was in Japan at the same time. They blew it. They should’ve gone further south.
Also, Curren’s point is just a glorified close out.
cool
does anyone know if iam walsh smiles?
14 minutes of complaining, 1 minute of surfing.
Visit a shrine to pay homage to the many Gods in Buddhist Japan, bring gifts for the locals, then the waves will appear.
Fuck I love surfing. Fuck I hate having to move to work for money. Fuck I can wait to get wet again...
Ask a sailor... The earth equator has the largest waves! Get a Boat and go!
Should be fun surfing radioactive waves, talk about energy. Also nice to have the bank account to fly all over the world. For my generation going on a safari was like the first Endless Summer, lucky if you could pull it off
He is a professional surfer so he has sponsors, and Fukushima where the nuclear reactor was, is 670 miles away from Miyazaki.
Newquay Cribber is a insane big wave surf spot that’s off the map and not busy at all go check it out on TH-cam - Newquay Cribber -
I just want to see surfing. There wasn't any action here
Why is he so mad/sad
red Bull
hola
+LUIS280600 Hola :v
ING-- N Korean tonga(We swallow, our tongues(ENGLISH). N Koreans
What a d-bag. Jeez. I like how they try to make it seem like he's so tormented. Finding some way to block out "the guy who said you couldn't take CO2 cartridges through customs." First world problems, bro.
Thank you for saying that. Bitching and moaning. Im saying dude is getting paid/sponsored to surf. While us regular working class are happy to be in 2 foot nuggets with 30 minutes of sun light left after a full day at work.
zihua. my adventure home
jaaaaaaaaaaaaa😆😆😆😆😆😆
The least inspiring of this series, like the life they live is a drag.
so much talking and barely any surfing....lmfao
No disrespect to Tom Curren but why the fuck did they decide to call it currens point!
6:37 Fortnite discussion.
GG - that was sharply spotted
All talk no action what's the point.?
:DD
To all non-watermen out there, you must understand that swell chasing/surfing is an all consuming addiction. -Not a negative addiction, but a positive, healthy(mind & body), spiritual addiction....you really won’t understand, unless you’re a surfer.
wonder how radioactive that water is.
Se morons -- it's Japan!
Too much talking not enough surfing
Too much hype for no waves ... warn viewers up front that this a talking about waves and not riding waves ... big aw shucks ...
wave is likes/ go for it
Too much talking.
God calls it "chasing the wind." And it's not literal, it's figuratively referencing vanity. All the good waves will be surfed in vain if you aren't Free in Jesus Christ. You can shut down your mind in the moment of a surf all you want, but you will not be able to shut out the reality of the heavy set of eternal Judgment that is coming after your # is up. If you love surfing more than Jesus, then you are an idolater & need to repent & believe & be saved & transformed. May God bless you with True Freedom.
so god should have created a better world then without providing the devil with that much power.
Just once I want to read a comment section without somebody bringing up the guy who died and then came back to life like a zombie a couple of thousand years ago. Get real already , will ya?
@@jaydickey1049 Yeah right dude, like there's preaching in every comment section you see! Get real yourself! You'll see real on Judgment Day anyway. Repent & save yourself from your bad judgment!
@@FaithandActiondotnet Yes faith , there is preaching in pretty much every comment section.Decent people don't spend a lot of time sweating ' judgement day'', or have anything to ''repent'' for.Have you already had your judgement day? Must have, otherwise how could you know what's going to happen?
@@jaydickey1049 Well there should be preaching in every comment section! And you think yourself "decent" but you've broken many Laws of God haven't you? You know. And I know what's going to happen because God knows what's going to happen & He has told us in His Word, the Holy Bible. It's pretty simple, you should read it & believe.
dang this video was boring :)
Rich white boys living their privileged dreams.....
Jealous bitches on TH-cam being bitches.
Why don't you just let people be happy? All you're doing is making yourself miserable
A "Chosen Ones" jew talking about white people's privilege?
I think there's not enough political correctness in surfing..there should be some affirmative action instituted so blacks and Browns,and yellows
And females can do this lbgt also...let them have a chance..too many white males...they seem to be very aggressive too..oh yeah Ian seems mad because he's Irish ..
that's the dumbest thing i've read today
whatthefuck519 ...ha ha thanku...gotcha..