I'd like to see how to repair a puncture in a tubeless tire. What do you do first: take out the liquid? This would be most useful. And have Ollie do it while all kinds of equations pop up on the screen when he explains things. That should confuse the hell out of people. But it would makes us laugh! 😁
1. Indexing the rear derailleur from scratch. 2. How to install shifter cable in a bike frame with internal cabling? 3. How to install a hydraulic brake cable in a bike frame with internal cabling? 4. How to true a wheel without a truing tool? 5. How to align your disc brake calipers properly and prevent disc brake rub? 6. How to clean and do maintenance on bike seatpost and saddle? 7. How to install a hollow tech bottom bracket including the chain, and crank? 8. How to install a bike fork, stem and handlebars? 9. How to build a wheel from scratch? 10. How to do maintenance on a drivetrain?
Something I've found useful: Fit your tyres so a logo (or some other reference point) is lined up with the valve So if the puncture on the inner tube is at say 2 o'clock from the valve then the thorn/stone/glass/damage should be at 2 o'clock from the logo on the tyre
I also pop out the tube (but not at the valve) and inflate it to spot the leak. That way I can go straight to the tyre section with the culprit before removing the tube. It makes everything much quicker.
The mechanic fixed my bike told me the same trick. Line up the graphic or logo of the tire with the valve. That way we can keep track / be sure that we have check the entire length of the tire so any foreign objects that cause the puncture of the tube..
Word of advice, born of experience. When you're feeling around the inside of the tyre, looking for the object which caused the puncture ... be very careful. I gave myself a really big and deep cut when I drew my thumb across the bit of glass that was embedded in the wall of my tyre. At night, in the rain, it's the last thing you need!
Pro-Tip #1: If you have a tight tire fit, as soon as the first tire lever is pulling at the bead, use your other hand to massage all the way around the tire to get the tire ALL the way into the center of the rim bed a second time. A few seconds doing this can save a lot of wrestling. Pro-Tip #2: Keep track of the orientation of the tube relative to the tire. Once you find the puncture, use the location as a guide to re-inspect your tire so you can hopefully be sure you have found the puncture location on the tire so you can give it some extra attention. Sometimes a tiny shard of glass or tiny wire will be hiding just below the surface, waiting for pressure to push it back to the surface. If you have a repeat puncture you can't hunt down, run a cotton ball around inside of the tire and this can help find truly tiny wires/thorns/etc. Pro-Tip #3: When installing new tires, line the tire logo up with the valve stem hole, it will allow you to completely remove the tire from the rim and still line up the tube leak to hunt down the most stubborn bits of debris hidden in your tires.
Also, the tyre levers have that little hook at the end for a reason. You can hook one lever into a spoke to have the bead lifted firmly while you work your way around the tyre with another lever. If it's an incredibly tight fit, you might need three levers, two hooked in and one to do the lifting around.
Well done, Johnson!! 👏👏👏‼️ A very clear and complete explanation. In this era of tiny TPU inner tubes which take up no more space than the repair kits, I must admit to not bothering to repair inner tubes in the wild anymore and simply swapping the punctured inner tube for a TPU tube. I save repairing the damaged inner tube for when I get home.
I always carry a couple of spare tubes on a ride. So I don't have to patch on the side of the road. Much easier to patch the tube in my workspace at home.
I prefer starting important rides with unpatched tubes, and having a new tube as primary spare. Also carry a repaired tube as second tube or for handing out to others who failed to pack a tube and are in need-or those on tubeless rigs who can’t fix their issue.
I have had a nightmare with Continental Grand Prix 5000 tyres and puncture. They are so tight to get on my wheels I have damaged two Vittoria Latex inners tubes and one Tubolito TPU inner tube after a couple of punctures. I don't remember tyres and inner tubes being that hard to change, back in t'day you just used to borrow a couple of spoons from your mum's cutlery draw and the washing up bowel and you were back underway in 15 minutes. So much for modern tech. #grumpynowimolder #£50quidlighter
I would always recommend taking three tyre levers, that way you can remove a very tight tyre, insert one lever and hook it on the spokes, then insert second one about 10cm away and also hook on spokes, then start inserting third one a further 10cm along , just before you hook it onto spokes the middle one will fall out and you can then keep working round until tyre is loose enough to remove by hand. This is why tyre levers are sold in threes, or at least they always used to be,. Can be a life-saver in situations when tired, cold and fed up and two might not be enough!
I’ve witnessed too many people not perform the most essential step which is to make sure the bead is in the centre of the rim at the opposite end to which you’re going to remove the tyre. This provides space to move the tyre over the bead. If you don’t do this you’re performing a stretch test on the tyre!
Just as important as how to repair a puncture is when to not try. 1. Snakebites, that is pinch flats. 2. cool damp weather, including rain. 3. Punctures next to a prominent seam. 4. Old glue. The small tubes of glue in the patch kit are good for one use.
I usually find it more practical to start to put the tyre bead back onto the rim right at the valve, and finish at the opposite side of the wheel. That way, it's going to be a lot easier to get that nasty last bit over the edge of the rim :)
no if you do it that way you risk pinching the tube with the bead because of the extra bulk in that part of the tube caused by the valve, which can lead to a puncture once you get riding. If you start opposite the valve then work back to it, you can finish by pushing the valve stem away from the hub and into the valve hole to ensure that the valve and tube are well out of the way of the bead when the last bit of bead snaps into the rim. It also makes it easier to ensure that the valve stem is perpendicular to the rim.
Thank you for the informative video. I hope you can make a video wherein you get a puncture on an actual ride. Say going uphill. Then outdoors. In the outdoors, you don't have a bike stand, how would you remove your tire without a bike stand? Where would you place your bike when you don't have a bike stand? How to mount the wheel back in the bike if you don't have a bike stand?
Understated importance to remember to push up on the valve before inflating so that part of the tube does not get pinched, I forgot to do that one time and a few miles into my ride a leak started right at the base of valve stem , unrepairable there :(
One tip I would add. Don't use an old puncture repair kit and definitely don't mix kits. I thought there was something wrong with my abilities, until I bought a new repair kit... ($6 AUD) Works really well. Better for the environment too.
Two things I would add 1. Check where the puncture is, that could indicate where on tyre potential thorn/nail/etc. may be located (in case you don’t find it by feel) 2. Check in case more than one puncture!
That was handy not needing tyre levers to get tyre back on 🤔 how convenient, if only a real world tyre was used that wouldn’t go back on by hand you could have shown how to use lever to get it back on.
i usually press the patch down for half a minute or so (though I'm rather paranoid, less is always fine if the glue is dry and the entire patch glued on), then put a wee bit of air into the tube, put it back into the tyre and then I'm good to go to pump it up to my preferred pressure :)
@@glharlor Agree, I have fixed hundreds of punctures over the decades and its always easier to start at the valve, particularly if the tyre is tight on the rim.
No idea why they manufacture those patches with a film on top... Helps no one that, especially on a dark rainy night by the side of the road... Peeled many a patch clean off removing that film 😂😂
I have never had much luck with the adhesive patches but have patched many tubes successfully. On the road I always keep the tube orientated in the same way it was installed once I locate the leak it makes it easier to locate the cause in the tire. That tube goes into a jersey pocket to be repaired at home.
the Chinese CRAP repair kit Looks Just like the one you just used. I just did a "Repair" which doesn't stick so I wasted my money and time (even let set in a clamp for 20 hours second try) with the bull shyte kit NOT sticking again... GARBAGE !
To save time searching the WHOLE tyre to see if the sharp is embedded, first locate whereabouts on the inner tube the puncture is. Then hold the tube against the tyre (locate roughly with the valve against the valve hole) matching up the marked puncture area with the tyre. Then you need only to check that specific area inside the tyre. Also, perhaps an eternal question on the drying time of patch glue: is it 1 minute or 5 minutes as suggested elsewhere? And how dry? - 'finger dry', or still tacky?
Thought Alex would make this video 10 seconds, "Hi, I'll show you how to fix Punchures" and then Just 6 seconds of a link on screen to the setting up tubeless video while him smiling and pointing at it.
Sometimes I find it difficult to inflate either type of Valve. Mostly when using a generator or small pump. The air won't start to inflate (Hissing) or lets out air too early, when I release the pump or leaver. Does this mean I have a faulty mechanism on the Pump or generator. Or am I just making the simple error.
interesting, the American way of spelling tyre is 'tire'. The 'English spelling of tire is tyre (tire has a different meaning in the UK for example 'After the seventh mile, I was beginning to tire' 🙂) I assume tire has a double meaning over the pond?
I wonder why no1 really balance a wheel after big hole big patch repair.....the weight distribution on the the wheel/tire would be different after the repair.
This video is missing some important stuff. Like when removing the tube make a note of the direction it was mounted. When you locate the puncture, just line up the somewhat inflated tube with the rim and tire and you can find out exactly where the spot it punctured was and hopefully what caused it. You can check the tire and rim if something is still there. This is not something to just dismiss as a waste of time, because if you mount a new tube and havent checked and corrected the cause of the last puncture chances are you'll just get another one. Also more than once I've had puncture on top of the tube, looked at the rim and found out it was actually because of the wrong size rim tape!
Loving your work Albert as always. I would advise that when removing the inner tube not to pull too hard and stretch it out. Also, and this is more when replacing tubes out on the road, enlist the "help" of several p**s taking "mates" to advise where you're going wrong.
Alex, I think that's the clearest instruction I've ever seen. I remember, sixty years ago, when someone had a puncture on a club run, it'd be fixed in a few minutes with about 100% success. Nowadays, this simple repair takes me a lot longer, and oftentimes still allows the tire to deflate. I believe this is called progress. Or maybe it's just me?
Good comments! I have been patching since 1968. My experience is patching on the side of the road with dirt, dust and grit is to be avoided. That patch wil at best get you home but will be a slow leak. Patching process should be in a clean dust free atmosphere and it is possible to have tubes with 6 or 8 patches that hold pressure for weeks. When a tire seems too tight to fit on the rim, use the palm of your hands [as opposed to fingers] to push the tire back on. Use spare tubes on the side of the road. If you run out of spare tubes use Gorilla tape [that you wrapped around your mini pump] to get you home and then do a proper patch. Gorilla tape also serves as inside tire patch in case of tire damage. Peace of mind!
Today is Monday and this happened to me a few hours ago. I normally carry a pump and a patch kit with the commuter bike, riding with thicker inner tubes so never had a spare tube riding that bike. But I had four flats today, all the same hole thanks to a goathead I picked up this morning and with all of my patches failing after no more than a couple miles of riding each repair. Very thick "thorn-resistant" tubes are great for city commuting and usually do the job, but patches don't work as well on them and having a totally dead weight pump that didn't work didn't help. Also these thick and stiff tubes are naturally a small diameter uninflated and they had to fill the inside of a 38mm tire, difficult to inflate to size with a crappy hand pump and hard to keep the patch from developing an air aneurism [yes the patches were all applied properly]. Rode a little and walked a lot to two local bike shops for new tubes... unknownst to me but knownst to those shops, both are closed on Mondays. Ok so who closes a bike shop on a Monday??? But finally got to an open shop after hours of hell and bike is now happy with new standard thickness tubes and a new hand pump that does the business really well -- maybe not to full pressure but definitely enough to ride on until a track pump could be used. And a spare tube is now part of the riding kit! GCN, you have a great sense of irony [or timing] to post this video today. And Alex is totally right: punctures suck!
Practice makes perfect, and also the first few times you do it are when you're gonna have the most fun. After you've done it a few times it becomes a faff :P
I carry 2 pairs of nitrile gloves in my spares- one for the chain if problems, and one for the day(I hopefully never see when) the tubeless doesn't work cos the cut is too big and it's time to "boot'n'tube".... I'd like to see Aled do a video on "when tubeless fails" and see how they would do that and how messy it could get and how to mitigate that? ie with Muc off? Near a stream? Wash the rims and tyres out...(Without a bike stand too- ie upside down as 99.9% of the riders do)
Thank you. First ever puncture today and I did the patch and also changed the tyre 🎉 I also used the two halves of an old wooden clothes peg as tyre levers!
If the tyre had been mounted correctly, the 'E' of Pirelli should be right above the valve. When you've located the puncture site, mark two crescents with a Biro about 4cm each side of the holes. Then you can drop the tube and WASH YOUR HANDS. Carry wet wipes in your PRK. CLEANLINESS IS EVERYTHING . To force me to learn, the bike shop lady stuck a pin in my tyre. I got a free repair kit :-)
I carry a tire repair kit in my saddle bag it got patches, glue, tire boots and the abrasive paper (as Alex calls it) plus a new inner tube. I carry the inner tube because my goal is get back to riding as soon as possible I don't carry a pump, it kept falling off its mounting bracket and I switch up between a messenger bag and backpack and I always forget to swap the pump to the current in use bag, so I bought a CO2 inflator kit with one cartridge for just in case, I Also figured out I'm never to far from a service station or auto repair place that has air so thats an option I do make sure I got a presta to SAE adapter in the tire repair kit box. LOL I Also put two fivers in the box those can used as a tire boot or for a bus-train ticket home. cheers. P.S glad to see I'm not the only tubed tire,rim brake rider left. 😆
I'm sure most cyclists do, but it's good practice to carry 2-3 spare tubes with you and do the repair at home. I also carry a small pair of tweezers to pick out any lodged pieces of thorn/wire from the tread area. Before inserting your tube back in, run your fingers around the inside of the tyre to check no thorn/wire pieces present...
Pro tip #3: don't slide your fingers around through the tire looking for whatever punctured it. I've managed to badly cut my hand open on nails and pieces of glass doing this. Use a rag or cloth and save yourself a lot of pain and bloodshed.
When putting a tire on try to have a marking on tire (Co. Name or such) at the valve stem. That way when you find the hole in tube , you can look at the corresponding spot on the tire for damage or a foreign object. Meaning if the puncture in the tube is 6 inches from the valve stem check 6 inches from the marking you used on the tire, if it's a foot away on the tube check a foot away on the tire and so on.
I usually find I have a puncture when I am home the next day, when checking the pressures before the next ride. Slow punctures are hard to locate, if the object that caused it is not present. That is when you need to use a new tube. Then a bowl of water is used to find hole in old tube. Another trick I use when replacing the tyre back on the wheel, is to spray the beed of the tyre with silicone oil. Tyre slips on the rim easily without too much struggle.
My top tip is to have a pair of tweezers with you as sometimes what is causing the puncture can be very hard or impossible to remove by hand, and if it is a piece of glass you could cut your fingers badly.
On the roadside I usually install a new inner tyre (sometimes even replacing the outer with a spare folding tyre). The actual repair can then be done indoors, nice and warm - punctures always happen in the rain. No wind noise around you makes it a lot easier to locate the puncture. The vulcanising solution can then also do its magic for a little longer, up to 10 minutes - use a timer. The patch can then be installed, and hammered home. The initial pressure with which the patch is applied determines the final strength, so using a hammer will generate the pressures that you need for this.
Great tutorial! I would add that it’s worth checking your tube for multiple punctures. Nothing more frustrating than getting the tire reassembled and finding you need to start over! Thorns and crushed glass are common culprits where I’m from.
Excellent clear video, thanks Cuthbert. Please can we have a corresponding video for tubeless tyres, how to use the bacon strip repair kits at the roadside, when should the tyre be replaced after self-sealed punctures, etc..?
Reusable zip ties help putting on a difficult tyre, put the zip tie bit against the rim (spoke side) and tighten. Gives the tyre a give more give as makes it easier to put difficult tyres on.
I challenge you at gseen to get a (any) millennial to repair a puncture... won't happen🙄 they just by a new tube, oor ,better still , pay someone else to do it !
Funnily enough I know many middle age cyclists who say exactly that. That patches are unreliable and tubes are cheap enough to just put a new one. I would have assumed they had plenty of years to learn how to do it by now...
I've fixed my rear tyre about 4 times in a 2021. But, that was before I had the 37 mm wide Swalbe Mararhon PLUS tyres installed on my trekking bike. Thanks for all the video's Alex. And ollie, (and the rest of the team). One tip when installing a tyre; Align the brand of the tyre near the valve (or the complete opposit). That can help finding the leak faster, in case you have a flat (next time).
The answer is a solid sometimes. Stitch the tear closed with something like dental floss (braided fishing line is a great option as well), give it a couple coats of the vulcanizing compound on both sides, install a radial tire patch- not a bike tube patch. Radial tire patches don't stretch. Tubes have to stretch, but the tire can't. Any stretch in your repair will bulb out and blow the tire.
What other bike maintenance videos would you like us to make? 🚲
Plugging tubeless tyres.
Maybe how to patch latex or TPU inner tubes? Tho it's roughly the same
I'd like to see how to repair a puncture in a tubeless tire. What do you do first: take out the liquid? This would be most useful. And have Ollie do it while all kinds of equations pop up on the screen when he explains things. That should confuse the hell out of people. But it would makes us laugh! 😁
1. Indexing the rear derailleur from scratch.
2. How to install shifter cable in a bike frame with internal cabling?
3. How to install a hydraulic brake cable in a bike frame with internal cabling?
4. How to true a wheel without a truing tool?
5. How to align your disc brake calipers properly and prevent disc brake rub?
6. How to clean and do maintenance on bike seatpost and saddle?
7. How to install a hollow tech bottom bracket including the chain, and crank?
8. How to install a bike fork, stem and handlebars?
9. How to build a wheel from scratch?
10. How to do maintenance on a drivetrain?
@@cstrike105 Wow! Anyone who takes this much time to contribute to the comment section deserves a round of applause 👏👏👏‼️
Something I've found useful:
Fit your tyres so a logo (or some other reference point) is lined up with the valve
So if the puncture on the inner tube is at say 2 o'clock from the valve then the thorn/stone/glass/damage should be at 2 o'clock from the logo on the tyre
also lining up the tire graphics with the valve looks nice
Yes! Great tip! ... plus you get more points in the vault? 🙌
I also pop out the tube (but not at the valve) and inflate it to spot the leak. That way I can go straight to the tyre section with the culprit before removing the tube.
It makes everything much quicker.
The mechanic fixed my bike told me the same trick. Line up the graphic or logo of the tire with the valve. That way we can keep track / be sure that we have check the entire length of the tire so any foreign objects that cause the puncture of the tube..
Never found any particular benefit in this. It's not like it's hard to find the valve hole, and many tyres have more than one logo anyway.
Punctures blow actually....
Underrated comment
Lmao 🤣🤣🤣
Word of advice, born of experience. When you're feeling around the inside of the tyre, looking for the object which caused the puncture ... be very careful. I gave myself a really big and deep cut when I drew my thumb across the bit of glass that was embedded in the wall of my tyre. At night, in the rain, it's the last thing you need!
Very good point! 🙌
What´s the lovely oil-slick cassette, please, Alex…?!
Pro-Tip #1: If you have a tight tire fit, as soon as the first tire lever is pulling at the bead, use your other hand to massage all the way around the tire to get the tire ALL the way into the center of the rim bed a second time. A few seconds doing this can save a lot of wrestling.
Pro-Tip #2: Keep track of the orientation of the tube relative to the tire. Once you find the puncture, use the location as a guide to re-inspect your tire so you can hopefully be sure you have found the puncture location on the tire so you can give it some extra attention. Sometimes a tiny shard of glass or tiny wire will be hiding just below the surface, waiting for pressure to push it back to the surface. If you have a repeat puncture you can't hunt down, run a cotton ball around inside of the tire and this can help find truly tiny wires/thorns/etc.
Pro-Tip #3: When installing new tires, line the tire logo up with the valve stem hole, it will allow you to completely remove the tire from the rim and still line up the tube leak to hunt down the most stubborn bits of debris hidden in your tires.
Great tips Seann! We are all about spreading the love and knowledge of bike tech! 🙌
Also, the tyre levers have that little hook at the end for a reason. You can hook one lever into a spoke to have the bead lifted firmly while you work your way around the tyre with another lever. If it's an incredibly tight fit, you might need three levers, two hooked in and one to do the lifting around.
Great little tip! 🙌
Well done, Johnson!! 👏👏👏‼️ A very clear and complete explanation. In this era of tiny TPU inner tubes which take up no more space than the repair kits, I must admit to not bothering to repair inner tubes in the wild anymore and simply swapping the punctured inner tube for a TPU tube. I save repairing the damaged inner tube for when I get home.
On the outward leg, I'll fix the tube; on the homeward bound, I'll replace it. I don't like cycling away from home without a spare tube.
@@jonathanbouchard39 That makes sense. Especially for long trips.
*Lil Johnny:* _I want tubeless setup for my bike..._
*Mother* _...but we got tubes at home._
Tubes at home...
I always carry a couple of spare tubes on a ride. So I don't have to patch on the side of the road. Much easier to patch the tube in my workspace at home.
I prefer starting important rides with unpatched tubes, and having a new tube as primary spare. Also carry a repaired tube as second tube or for handing out to others who failed to pack a tube and are in need-or those on tubeless rigs who can’t fix their issue.
I have had a nightmare with Continental Grand Prix 5000 tyres and puncture.
They are so tight to get on my wheels I have damaged two Vittoria Latex inners tubes and one Tubolito TPU inner tube after a couple of punctures.
I don't remember tyres and inner tubes being that hard to change, back in t'day you just used to borrow a couple of spoons from your mum's cutlery draw and the washing up bowel and you were back underway in 15 minutes.
So much for modern tech. #grumpynowimolder #£50quidlighter
I carry a BBB Easytire tool as I too have Conti GP 5000.
I would always recommend taking three tyre levers, that way you can remove a very tight tyre, insert one lever and hook it on the spokes, then insert second one about 10cm away and also hook on spokes, then start inserting third one a further 10cm along , just before you hook it onto spokes the middle one will fall out and you can then keep working round until tyre is loose enough to remove by hand. This is why tyre levers are sold in threes, or at least they always used to be,. Can be a life-saver in situations when tired, cold and fed up and two might not be enough!
I’ve witnessed too many people not perform the most essential step which is to make sure the bead is in the centre of the rim at the opposite end to which you’re going to remove the tyre. This provides space to move the tyre over the bead. If you don’t do this you’re performing a stretch test on the tyre!
I remember when I was younger puncture repair kits came with chalk and a greater I still put chalk dust on top of my patches and any glue remaining
Just as important as how to repair a puncture is when to not try. 1. Snakebites, that is pinch flats. 2. cool damp weather, including rain. 3. Punctures next to a prominent seam. 4. Old glue. The small tubes of glue in the patch kit are good for one use.
I'm sorry this is just not accurate. Alex didn't curse and didn't drop his levers even once!
And he didn’t have “helpful” mates taking the mickey throughout the process!
My question is how will the patch stick if the glue is dry?
love the oil slick cassette! what cassette is that?
I spy a bit of anodising on a cassette!
I usually find it more practical to start to put the tyre bead back onto the rim right at the valve, and finish at the opposite side of the wheel. That way, it's going to be a lot easier to get that nasty last bit over the edge of the rim :)
no if you do it that way you risk pinching the tube with the bead because of the extra bulk in that part of the tube caused by the valve, which can lead to a puncture once you get riding. If you start opposite the valve then work back to it, you can finish by pushing the valve stem away from the hub and into the valve hole to ensure that the valve and tube are well out of the way of the bead when the last bit of bead snaps into the rim. It also makes it easier to ensure that the valve stem is perpendicular to the rim.
@@AutiSam1974 Also, you can't sit the tyre rim right into the central trough of the wheel rim when the valve is blocking it.
Thank you for the informative video. I hope you can make a video wherein you get a puncture on an actual ride. Say going uphill. Then outdoors. In the outdoors, you don't have a bike stand, how would you remove your tire without a bike stand? Where would you place your bike when you don't have a bike stand? How to mount the wheel back in the bike if you don't have a bike stand?
Remember to check if they are directional tyres (You need to put the tyre on rotating in the correct direction!)
THIS!!! ... we've all been there 😂
I´ve had (by my mistake) front tire on wrong direction, and guess what. Nothing happened.
Understated importance to remember to push up on the valve before inflating so that part of the tube does not get pinched, I forgot to do that one time and a few miles into my ride a leak started right at the base of valve stem , unrepairable there :(
Aw no! Did you get home safe? 👀
@@gcntech yes thanks,always have a spare tube and patches, and now with my freshly waxed chain I don't get dirty oil on me :)
Puncture is one thing! sidewall tear is another 😞New tyre time
One tip I would add. Don't use an old puncture repair kit and definitely don't mix kits. I thought there was something wrong with my abilities, until I bought a new repair kit... ($6 AUD) Works really well. Better for the environment too.
Two things I would add
1. Check where the puncture is, that could indicate where on tyre potential thorn/nail/etc. may be located (in case you don’t find it by feel)
2. Check in case more than one puncture!
Very well put 🙌 Checking for anything that may puncture is always a good shout!
That tip about shifting to smallest sprocket is *so* useful :-) Learned that from GCN years ago.
I learned that from racing in the seventies. Flat, straight into top before stopping.
Glad we could help 🙌 That really can help save some time!
yes in theory, so easy ,but thats the perfect world ,not the real one
That was handy not needing tyre levers to get tyre back on 🤔 how convenient, if only a real world tyre was used that wouldn’t go back on by hand you could have shown how to use lever to get it back on.
Since more riders have latex inner tubes by now, how about those?
How long after applying the patch is it recommended to wait and fully inflate the tube and be good to go again?
i usually press the patch down for half a minute or so (though I'm rather paranoid, less is always fine if the glue is dry and the entire patch glued on), then put a wee bit of air into the tube, put it back into the tyre and then I'm good to go to pump it up to my preferred pressure :)
Carry a little bottle of chalk as well to soak up excess glue.
What I really wanna know is what is that oil slick casette?
What is the rationale for starting opposite the valve when returning the tire to the rim?
I think it is more difficult to finish at the valve. I usually start at the valve and work around the other way
@@glharlor Agree, I have fixed hundreds of punctures over the decades and its always easier to start at the valve, particularly if the tyre is tight on the rim.
No idea why they manufacture those patches with a film on top... Helps no one that, especially on a dark rainy night by the side of the road... Peeled many a patch clean off removing that film 😂😂
I have never had much luck with the adhesive patches but have patched many tubes successfully. On the road I always keep the tube orientated in the same way it was installed once I locate the leak it makes it easier to locate the cause in the tire. That tube goes into a jersey pocket to be repaired at home.
Whats the the repair kit chief, any one?
I just got a puncture yesterday while in a race so pefect timing
Tankx Chad for the cool video about how people used to fix a flat in the olden days before "tubeless" tyres.
the Chinese CRAP repair kit Looks Just like the one you just used. I just did a "Repair" which doesn't stick so I wasted my money and time (even let set in a clamp for 20 hours second try) with the bull shyte kit NOT sticking again... GARBAGE !
To save time searching the WHOLE tyre to see if the sharp is embedded, first locate whereabouts on the inner tube the puncture is. Then hold the tube against the tyre (locate roughly with the valve against the valve hole) matching up the marked puncture area with the tyre. Then you need only to check that specific area inside the tyre.
Also, perhaps an eternal question on the drying time of patch glue: is it 1 minute or 5 minutes as suggested elsewhere? And how dry? - 'finger dry', or still tacky?
Thought Alex would make this video 10 seconds,
"Hi, I'll show you how to fix Punchures" and then Just 6 seconds of a link on screen to the setting up tubeless video while him smiling and pointing at it.
Sometimes I find it difficult to inflate either type of Valve. Mostly when using a generator or small pump. The air won't start to inflate (Hissing) or lets out air too early, when I release the pump or leaver. Does this mean I have a faulty mechanism on the Pump or generator. Or am I just making the simple error.
interesting, the American way of spelling tyre is 'tire'. The 'English spelling of tire is tyre (tire has a different meaning in the UK for example 'After the seventh mile, I was beginning to tire' 🙂) I assume tire has a double meaning over the pond?
I've changed many tires, both on my bicycle and motorbike. But I learned something new here. Thanks Alex!
That is music to our ears! 👌
One thing for sure, that tyre was NOT a Continental Gatorskin !
I wonder why no1 really balance a wheel after big hole big patch repair.....the weight distribution on the the wheel/tire would be different after the repair.
This video is missing some important stuff. Like when removing the tube make a note of the direction it was mounted. When you locate the puncture, just line up the somewhat inflated tube with the rim and tire and you can find out exactly where the spot it punctured was and hopefully what caused it. You can check the tire and rim if something is still there. This is not something to just dismiss as a waste of time, because if you mount a new tube and havent checked and corrected the cause of the last puncture chances are you'll just get another one. Also more than once I've had puncture on top of the tube, looked at the rim and found out it was actually because of the wrong size rim tape!
Loving your work Albert as always. I would advise that when removing the inner tube not to pull too hard and stretch it out. Also, and this is more when replacing tubes out on the road, enlist the "help" of several p**s taking "mates" to advise where you're going wrong.
Mates are always worth getting involved... they might learn something themselves 👀
Wow! GCN, the staunch proponents and sponsored acolytes of tubeless, upload . . . THIS?🤔🤨 No comment🤐
Great vid, How would you go about mending puncture on old repair, is it worth it?.
How to fix a puncture, buy puncture protected (kguard) tyres. Done. Haven't had a flat in 15 yrs.
Alex, I think that's the clearest instruction I've ever seen. I remember, sixty years ago, when someone had a puncture on a club run, it'd be fixed in a few minutes with about 100% success. Nowadays, this simple repair takes me a lot longer, and oftentimes still allows the tire to deflate. I believe this is called progress. Or maybe it's just me?
I’m sure you are much quicker and 60s
Good comments! I have been patching since 1968. My experience is patching on the side of the road with dirt, dust and grit is to be avoided. That patch wil at best get you home but will be a slow leak. Patching process should be in a clean dust free atmosphere and it is possible to have tubes with 6 or 8 patches that hold pressure for weeks. When a tire seems too tight to fit on the rim, use the palm of your hands [as opposed to fingers] to push the tire back on. Use spare tubes on the side of the road. If you run out of spare tubes use Gorilla tape [that you wrapped around your mini pump] to get you home and then do a proper patch. Gorilla tape also serves as inside tire patch in case of tire damage. Peace of mind!
That must be a lot of patches on your inner tubes 😜
What about applying chalk to the excess glue? If you don’t the innertube will stick to the tyre.
Whilst repairing a flat, salty language is also required.
"Remove the wheel" STUPID ADVICE. How to identify the non pros.
Use gloves feeling for objects in your tire, unless you like cutting your fingers open on nails or glass...
Alternative method: (1) throw punctured inner tube in the bin (2) fit new inner tube
You missed a chance to show how to use water to find the puncture. Never mind.
i'm surprised gary is presenting this video. i thought tubes were against his religion?
I repair my daughter's tubs, was hoping to pick up some top tips... 😅
Today is Monday and this happened to me a few hours ago. I normally carry a pump and a patch kit with the commuter bike, riding with thicker inner tubes so never had a spare tube riding that bike. But I had four flats today, all the same hole thanks to a goathead I picked up this morning and with all of my patches failing after no more than a couple miles of riding each repair.
Very thick "thorn-resistant" tubes are great for city commuting and usually do the job, but patches don't work as well on them and having a totally dead weight pump that didn't work didn't help. Also these thick and stiff tubes are naturally a small diameter uninflated and they had to fill the inside of a 38mm tire, difficult to inflate to size with a crappy hand pump and hard to keep the patch from developing an air aneurism [yes the patches were all applied properly]. Rode a little and walked a lot to two local bike shops for new tubes... unknownst to me but knownst to those shops, both are closed on Mondays. Ok so who closes a bike shop on a Monday???
But finally got to an open shop after hours of hell and bike is now happy with new standard thickness tubes and a new hand pump that does the business really well -- maybe not to full pressure but definitely enough to ride on until a track pump could be used. And a spare tube is now part of the riding kit!
GCN, you have a great sense of irony [or timing] to post this video today. And Alex is totally right: punctures suck!
Practice makes perfect, and also the first few times you do it are when you're gonna have the most fun.
After you've done it a few times it becomes a faff :P
Look at that bike, it's amazing! Darth Vader must ride it.
I carry 2 pairs of nitrile gloves in my spares- one for the chain if problems, and one for the day(I hopefully never see when) the tubeless doesn't work cos the cut is too big and it's time to "boot'n'tube".... I'd like to see Aled do a video on "when tubeless fails" and see how they would do that and how messy it could get and how to mitigate that? ie with Muc off? Near a stream? Wash the rims and tyres out...(Without a bike stand too- ie upside down as 99.9% of the riders do)
Thank you. First ever puncture today and I did the patch and also changed the tyre 🎉 I also used the two halves of an old wooden clothes peg as tyre levers!
If the tyre had been mounted correctly, the 'E' of Pirelli should be right above the valve.
When you've located the puncture site, mark two crescents with a Biro about 4cm each side of the holes. Then you can drop the tube and WASH YOUR HANDS. Carry wet wipes in your PRK.
CLEANLINESS IS EVERYTHING .
To force me to learn, the bike shop lady stuck a pin in my tyre. I got a free repair kit :-)
I carry a tire repair kit in my saddle bag it got patches, glue, tire boots and the abrasive paper (as Alex calls it) plus a new inner tube.
I carry the inner tube because my goal is get back to riding as soon as possible I don't carry a pump, it kept falling off its mounting bracket and I switch up between a messenger bag and backpack and I always forget to swap the pump to the current in use bag, so I bought a CO2 inflator kit with one cartridge for just in case, I Also figured out I'm never to far from a service station or auto repair place that has air so thats an option I do make sure I got a presta to SAE adapter in the tire repair kit box.
LOL I Also put two fivers in the box those can used as a tire boot or for a bus-train ticket home.
cheers.
P.S glad to see I'm not the only tubed tire,rim brake rider left. 😆
I'm sure most cyclists do, but it's good practice to carry 2-3 spare tubes with you and do the repair at home. I also carry a small pair of tweezers to pick out any lodged pieces of thorn/wire from the tread area. Before inserting your tube back in, run your fingers around the inside of the tyre to check no thorn/wire pieces present...
Thanks John. Brilliant explanation! ;)
Pro tip #3: don't slide your fingers around through the tire looking for whatever punctured it. I've managed to badly cut my hand open on nails and pieces of glass doing this. Use a rag or cloth and save yourself a lot of pain and bloodshed.
LOL. Struggling for content today guys :0
When putting a tire on try to have a marking on tire (Co. Name or such) at the valve stem. That way when you find the hole in tube , you can look at the corresponding spot on the tire for damage or a foreign object. Meaning if the puncture in the tube is 6 inches from the valve stem check 6 inches from the marking you used on the tire, if it's a foot away on the tube check a foot away on the tire and so on.
I usually find I have a puncture when I am home the next day, when checking the pressures before the next ride. Slow punctures are hard to locate, if the object that caused it is not present. That is when you need to use a new tube. Then a bowl of water is used to find hole in old tube. Another trick I use when replacing the tyre back on the wheel, is to spray the beed of the tyre with silicone oil. Tyre slips on the rim easily without too much struggle.
My top tip is to have a pair of tweezers with you as sometimes what is causing the puncture can be very hard or impossible to remove by hand, and if it is a piece of glass you could cut your fingers badly.
just changed the tire on my sons bike yesterday.
On the roadside I usually install a new inner tyre (sometimes even replacing the outer with a spare folding tyre). The actual repair can then be done indoors, nice and warm - punctures always happen in the rain. No wind noise around you makes it a lot easier to locate the puncture. The vulcanising solution can then also do its magic for a little longer, up to 10 minutes - use a timer. The patch can then be installed, and hammered home. The initial pressure with which the patch is applied determines the final strength, so using a hammer will generate the pressures that you need for this.
Great tutorial! I would add that it’s worth checking your tube for multiple punctures. Nothing more frustrating than getting the tire reassembled and finding you need to start over! Thorns and crushed glass are common culprits where I’m from.
Excellent clear video, thanks Cuthbert. Please can we have a corresponding video for tubeless tyres, how to use the bacon strip repair kits at the roadside, when should the tyre be replaced after self-sealed punctures, etc..?
Reusable zip ties help putting on a difficult tyre, put the zip tie bit against the rim (spoke side) and tighten. Gives the tyre a give more give as makes it easier to put difficult tyres on.
nice and easy. thx it was so simple after i see your video. good work
Glad it helped
Thank you for the video it helps a lot😀
Next Thermoplastic tube & latex tube repair
I challenge you at gseen to get a (any) millennial to repair a puncture... won't happen🙄 they just by a new tube, oor ,better still , pay someone else to do it !
Funnily enough I know many middle age cyclists who say exactly that. That patches are unreliable and tubes are cheap enough to just put a new one. I would have assumed they had plenty of years to learn how to do it by now...
@@nluisa "recycling is the new thing"!
About how many patches would you put on an inner tube before you would replace the tube? Or would it generally depend on the age of the tube?
Gracias Alejandro! I was just about to patch a few tubes.
Edit: the algorithm is real
Sadly I have never once patched a tire. I always swap to a new tube entirely
I've fixed my rear tyre about 4 times in a 2021.
But, that was before I had the 37 mm wide Swalbe Mararhon PLUS tyres installed on my trekking bike.
Thanks for all the video's Alex. And ollie, (and the rest of the team).
One tip when installing a tyre; Align the brand of the tyre near the valve (or the complete opposit). That can help finding the leak faster, in case you have a flat (next time).
Schwalbe Marathon Plus are really good tyres - I haven't had a puncture in 3 years on them - best tyres for puncture resistance imo
Really good - super useful.
Halo Alex! Can a road bike tubeles tire with a 5-6mm puncture that the sealant can no longer close be repaired? And if so, what do you recommend?
The answer is a solid sometimes. Stitch the tear closed with something like dental floss (braided fishing line is a great option as well), give it a couple coats of the vulcanizing compound on both sides, install a radial tire patch- not a bike tube patch. Radial tire patches don't stretch. Tubes have to stretch, but the tire can't. Any stretch in your repair will bulb out and blow the tire.
Not so easy on a 16" tyre.....
Thanks so much this was really helpful
Thanks Alex...could you put sealant into a tube ?
On a tire, not on a bike.
Next week, how to fix a puncture on a tubular.
What cassete was that?
lol what next :)
Great video very helpful thank you.
Dont bother, just change to a new tube.
For real?