My compliments, Ryky, on the video. I'm always interested in your views. I'm pleased with the performance the Misono Swedish (carbon) steel gyuto, which I've been using for about 3 years, even though I'm left-hand dominant and the knife is sharpened to a right-handed bias. I continue to sharpen the knife on that bias, because I'm not a commercial chef, so I can take my time when using the knife with my right hand, which makes a difference with thin slicing. The blade itself is thin, and it holds a good edge but, as you warned your audience, this steel is also very, very reactive. The carbon steel will stain instantly when slicing onions, lemons, even tomatoes, no matter what you do, so the knife looks like the work horse that it is, rather than a show horse in your kitchen. The blade hasn't rusted on me because I dry it and put the knife away before I start cooking. Therefore, the Misono Swedish steel gyuto provides immediate incentives for anyone who wants to develop good knife handling practices. Keep up the good work, Ryky, and looking forward to seeing you again soon.
Thank you for a video. i have been a big fan for years now. I was able to visit Osaka in July and went looking for a Japanese chef knife set. I bought a Enzo HD from you years ago, but to be able to go to the store and see how they feel is just amazing. I ended up with a tojiro zen 270mm gyto and a 210mm slicer set and thanks to you and the knowledge gained from watching your videos i have zero buyers regret, or feel like i missed out on a great opportunity. I cant thank you enough and I will continue to watch your videos and support the burrfection store when I can.
I've been using the 240mm Swedish gyuto for many years now and haven't had any issues with rusting. Cut a few lemons or dip it in vinegar to get a good patina going and that goes a long ways toward protecting it. Use, rinse, wipe and rack. Never had a single spot of actual rust. I MUCH prefer carbon steel over almost any of the stainless variety's until you get up into the crazy expensive "super steels".
I hear you. I really like the Swedish steel series. Anyone who takes care not to leave the knife wet after use or wash will not experience rust. That goes to show how well you take care of your cutlery. My caution was about how reactive it is. Many people who have only used stainless will freak out when they see staining and patina develop on their carbon steel knives. 240mm Swedish steel is awesome
I’d love to try a high carbon gyuto. So far my only high carbon knives are Chinese cleavers (a couple that were my parents and one I bought as an adult). My mom used to leave hers wet after use until she cleaned up from the meal and would sometimes end up with some mild surface rust, so I would occasionally clean them up with a rust eraser.
I picked up a Misono 440 Santoku and spent about 15 mins with a strip of sandpaper to round off the choil and spine. Now it's great! The 440 series represents the "goldilocks" in the line up, stainless with decent edge retention at a good price. The UX10 was a big jump in price (but looks cooler), whereas the Moly series is only slightly less than the 440 series.
The UX10 bolster gives me shivers because the uppermost part of it extends beyond the heel, overshadows it. The top of that bolster on the UX10 probably would not touch the whetstone at a 10 degree sharpening angle - probably. But if it did, that would be a real pain in the neck. Some knife designers like to make a knife look better by gracefully curving the bolster (or finger guard) into the edge at the heel. It may look nice, but it's a barrier to sharpening. Knives must be sharpened or thrown away. Just venting here, I'm sharpening a friend's knives. They tested 2000+ on the BESS scale. Fortunately, I have a positively wonderful LD 21 stone (and a wet grinding wheel). I got one below 200 (and quit, left it there!). All of them have bolsters, and one is angled forward to the top at about 45 degrees, and sweeps gracefully into the blade of the knife.
Yeah i hear you. I have not had that problem yet but i can see how easily that could be the case. My biggest problem is the shaping of the choil. I am just curing how that design was not something that bothered the decision makers before production. But, i suppose they thought it would not have been a big enough issue to most users . Such is life
@@Burrfection ---- A good metal file could reshape the choil - in your hands. There are small vises (like $30 bucks) with variable angles so you can essentially attack flat, vertical, upside down, sideways, with rubber "clamp bars" (I've forgotten what they're called). You could clamp the blade and work with the file, then finish up with sandpaper. From my limited experience, go with a round or semi-round file about the size of the curve you want. A small (round) file requires more side-to-side motion to get a smooth curve. Just check that the file is harder than the knife steel. Dremel grinding would work, but be careful because it's very fast!! Safety glasses. P.S. Forget diamond files. They wear out very quickly. Go with metal.
it would be nice to see you upload more. I learned to sharpen knives on stones from your videos, its too bad you don't have more time to put out content. cheers
Received my knives and they are beautiful however noticed the bevel is highly asymmetric with one side more pronounced than the other. Is this expected and what for? Also since I cut with my left hand do I need to regrind the bevel to the opposite side?
hoi Riky, iI have been using the Misono UX10 series knives in Swedish steel for years. Real workhorses in pro kitchens. However, these knives are not suitable for people with large hands. Greetings from sunny Ostend on the North Sea, Belgium.
Interesting to hear about how common these are in Tokyo compared to other brands. Maybe i missed it, but would have liked to have heard about the primary grind, lazer-like, middle-weight, flat, covexed, etc. and more into the type of performance to expect. Would have been Interesting to hear your take with your base of reference for the hundreds of different knives that i know from watching your channel that youve used/handled.
yeah i use a 240mm gyuto for.... 99% of my kitchen needs. i break down 50 lbs of ribeye every few months and the 240mm is my go-to knife. this one stands out in price:performance ratio burrfectionstore.com/collections/gyuto/products/yu-kurosaki-senko-ei-r2-sg2-gyuto?_pos=28&_fid=872f93cd9&_ss=c&variant=43677130817755
I have Misono Swedish steel. It rusts in minutes,. Literally. I forgot to dry it a couple of times after use and it turned into a rusty mess! And when we talk about patina, it sounds charming but it's not. It actually looks dirty. I personally wouldn't recommend it.
I hear you about the rust issue. Misono could have used a less reactive steel. I am not a huge fan of patina either. I do not mind it but i minimize it for my personal knives
@@Burrfection: I like a light patina, but once it gets beyond a certain point it looks bad. I also don’t love that it discolors onions (and probably everything else) when you cut them, since you’re ultimately eating that.
@@808azndude oh okey then I understand better though my understanding is there is much better steel in Japan but what do I know,, just getting into this. Thank you sir.
@rexochroy2 I would say japan has different steels. Not necessarily better. There's a different purpose for japanese and European steels. For example: butchers need a soft euro steel for the ease of honing and in case they hit bones. If you tried that with a $800 sushi knife, it might snap in half. On the other hand, if you tried to cut sushi with a soft euro steel, you might tear the fish instead of cutting the fish.
@@rexochroy2You have to watch video called What is the BEST Knife Steel? You get so many informations about steels, their elements and what they do for the alloy. My best advice would be educate yourself properly before the purchase. One may be happy with the Victorinox Fibrox or chase that Japanese holy grail and there are so many options in between. Personally I woudnt spend more then 300E if you dont shop for ZDP189 or HAP40.
Sir i miss you a lot from Last 2yrs i like your video as you explained it thoroughly how to use knife and how to sharpen it.
In the time of lockdown 2020 in India,as I am from Mumbai From (March -June) I use to watch your videos a lot.
My compliments, Ryky, on the video. I'm always interested in your views. I'm pleased with the performance the Misono Swedish (carbon) steel gyuto, which I've been using for about 3 years, even though I'm left-hand dominant and the knife is sharpened to a right-handed bias. I continue to sharpen the knife on that bias, because I'm not a commercial chef, so I can take my time when using the knife with my right hand, which makes a difference with thin slicing. The blade itself is thin, and it holds a good edge but, as you warned your audience, this steel is also very, very reactive. The carbon steel will stain instantly when slicing onions, lemons, even tomatoes, no matter what you do, so the knife looks like the work horse that it is, rather than a show horse in your kitchen. The blade hasn't rusted on me because I dry it and put the knife away before I start cooking. Therefore, the Misono Swedish steel gyuto provides immediate incentives for anyone who wants to develop good knife handling practices. Keep up the good work, Ryky, and looking forward to seeing you again soon.
You sir, are an excellent presenter. Thank you for sharing your thoughts and opinions.
So nice of you
@Burrfection What brand/ bladesmith do you recommend for a high-speed steel Sujihiki?
Nice to see you again
Great video and comparison. This guy has always been one of the best on here.
Wow, thanks!
Thank you for a video. i have been a big fan for years now. I was able to visit Osaka in July and went looking for a Japanese chef knife set. I bought a Enzo HD from you years ago, but to be able to go to the store and see how they feel is just amazing. I ended up with a tojiro zen 270mm gyto and a 210mm slicer set and thanks to you and the knowledge gained from watching your videos i have zero buyers regret, or feel like i missed out on a great opportunity. I cant thank you enough and I will continue to watch your videos and support the burrfection store when I can.
Thank you for trusting my words. Reach out anytime
@@Burrfection what is the best way to reach you. i tried right before i went to osaka.
Yes ! Nice to see you again !!! Keep up coming with new videos !
More to come!
Good to see you do another video. Great information on these knives.
More to come!
I've been using the 240mm Swedish gyuto for many years now and haven't had any issues with rusting. Cut a few lemons or dip it in vinegar to get a good patina going and that goes a long ways toward protecting it. Use, rinse, wipe and rack. Never had a single spot of actual rust. I MUCH prefer carbon steel over almost any of the stainless variety's until you get up into the crazy expensive "super steels".
I hear you. I really like the Swedish steel series. Anyone who takes care not to leave the knife wet after use or wash will not experience rust. That goes to show how well you take care of your cutlery. My caution was about how reactive it is. Many people who have only used stainless will freak out when they see staining and patina develop on their carbon steel knives. 240mm Swedish steel is awesome
I’d love to try a high carbon gyuto. So far my only high carbon knives are Chinese cleavers (a couple that were my parents and one I bought as an adult). My mom used to leave hers wet after use until she cleaned up from the meal and would sometimes end up with some mild surface rust, so I would occasionally clean them up with a rust eraser.
Your knife skills have improved! I remember when you were a sharpening master but had - ahem - less than perfect chopping technique.
Always working on it
@@Burrfection: Yes, it shows! But you should probably still stay away from chopping rope 🫨
If you haven’t tried yet, I’d recommend Carter cutlery. Pricey, but worth it.
I picked up a Misono 440 Santoku and spent about 15 mins with a strip of sandpaper to round off the choil and spine. Now it's great! The 440 series represents the "goldilocks" in the line up, stainless with decent edge retention at a good price. The UX10 was a big jump in price (but looks cooler), whereas the Moly series is only slightly less than the 440 series.
nice!
I should mention I put the knife in a vise and use the strip of sandpaper in a shoe shining motion. This rounds the edges of the spine and choil.
I love my gyuto misono and sujuhiki with dragon engraving❤🔥🔥🔥
Misonoteam💪❤️
Yes…. Love that series.
Perhaps compare them to the Tojiro DP series, as they seem to be around the same price point.
Yup. Video is in the works
Oh nice! 😮
Very helpful video, please do more with other brands 🙂
Thank you! Will do!
The UX10 bolster gives me shivers because the uppermost part of it extends beyond the heel, overshadows it. The top of that bolster on the UX10 probably would not touch the whetstone at a 10 degree sharpening angle - probably. But if it did, that would be a real pain in the neck. Some knife designers like to make a knife look better by gracefully curving the bolster (or finger guard) into the edge at the heel. It may look nice, but it's a barrier to sharpening. Knives must be sharpened or thrown away. Just venting here, I'm sharpening a friend's knives. They tested 2000+ on the BESS scale. Fortunately, I have a positively wonderful LD 21 stone (and a wet grinding wheel). I got one below 200 (and quit, left it there!). All of them have bolsters, and one is angled forward to the top at about 45 degrees, and sweeps gracefully into the blade of the knife.
Yeah i hear you. I have not had that problem yet but i can see how easily that could be the case. My biggest problem is the shaping of the choil. I am just curing how that design was not something that bothered the decision makers before production. But, i suppose they thought it would not have been a big enough issue to most users . Such is life
@@Burrfection ---- A good metal file could reshape the choil - in your hands. There are small vises (like $30 bucks) with variable angles so you can essentially attack flat, vertical, upside down, sideways, with rubber "clamp bars" (I've forgotten what they're called). You could clamp the blade and work with the file, then finish up with sandpaper. From my limited experience, go with a round or semi-round file about the size of the curve you want. A small (round) file requires more side-to-side motion to get a smooth curve. Just check that the file is harder than the knife steel. Dremel grinding would work, but be careful because it's very fast!! Safety glasses. P.S. Forget diamond files. They wear out very quickly. Go with metal.
it would be nice to see you upload more. I learned to sharpen knives on stones from your videos, its too bad you don't have more time to put out content. cheers
Working on it!
I am glad that you dont produce videos very frequently anymore. My wallet is happier that way.
It is mostly for aesthetics. It gives the blade heel a slightly more rounded look after polishing. Not something i particularly care for
Received my knives and they are beautiful however noticed the bevel is highly asymmetric with one side more pronounced than the other. Is this expected and what for? Also since I cut with my left hand do I need to regrind the bevel to the opposite side?
The bevel asymmetry is just a result of being hand sharpened. Just use a normal. Do not worry about regrinding the edge
How often is your store updated with new stuff? I've been stalking for the last couple weeks looking for a white#1 gyuto.
Every 1-2 months depending on when the artisans have a shipment they send us
hoi Riky, iI have been using the Misono UX10 series knives in Swedish steel for years. Real workhorses in pro kitchens. However, these knives are not suitable for people with large hands. Greetings from sunny Ostend on the North Sea, Belgium.
Your are right, I had to modify handle, blade is excelent
Thank you for sharing your experience
3:10 Sooo satisfying to watch
Interesting to hear about how common these are in Tokyo compared to other brands. Maybe i missed it, but would have liked to have heard about the primary grind, lazer-like, middle-weight, flat, covexed, etc. and more into the type of performance to expect. Would have been Interesting to hear your take with your base of reference for the hundreds of different knives that i know from watching your channel that youve used/handled.
Will have to post a $100 knife video which would compare all aspects of knives in that range
@@Burrfection that sounds awesome, I will stay tuned
@@Burrfection: That would be great … maybe a series that does that for different price points/budgets?
Is the Chef's knife your go to for slicing meat, cooked, raw, ....not delicate filet work but steak, roast etc ?
yeah i use a 240mm gyuto for.... 99% of my kitchen needs. i break down 50 lbs of ribeye every few months and the 240mm is my go-to knife. this one stands out in price:performance ratio burrfectionstore.com/collections/gyuto/products/yu-kurosaki-senko-ei-r2-sg2-gyuto?_pos=28&_fid=872f93cd9&_ss=c&variant=43677130817755
I have to fight to urge to go sharpen my knives everytime i watch your video…sadly tonight i loss😂
You can do it! Next time
I have Misono Swedish steel. It rusts in minutes,. Literally. I forgot to dry it a couple of times after use and it turned into a rusty mess! And when we talk about patina, it sounds charming but it's not. It actually looks dirty. I personally wouldn't recommend it.
I hear you about the rust issue. Misono could have used a less reactive steel. I am not a huge fan of patina either. I do not mind it but i minimize it for my personal knives
@@Burrfection: I like a light patina, but once it gets beyond a certain point it looks bad. I also don’t love that it discolors onions (and probably everything else) when you cut them, since you’re ultimately eating that.
3:35 Why did he dig the heel into the stone like that? is it so that the very edge is not sharp enough to cut your finger?
Aesthetics
For years I’ve put a small radius on mine at the heel, since I don’t see a use for that corner, except for catching/cutting drying towels!
The steel is 19c27 ... all that money for 19c27 ?
this will solve all of your knife problems burrfectionstore.com/
Is there a reason for the name Swedish series?..?
The steel type
To my understanding, this series uses sweedish steel. Known for being more pure than other sources of iron.
@@808azndude oh okey then I understand better though my understanding is there is much better steel in Japan but what do I know,, just getting into this. Thank you sir.
@rexochroy2 I would say japan has different steels. Not necessarily better. There's a different purpose for japanese and European steels. For example: butchers need a soft euro steel for the ease of honing and in case they hit bones. If you tried that with a $800 sushi knife, it might snap in half. On the other hand, if you tried to cut sushi with a soft euro steel, you might tear the fish instead of cutting the fish.
@@rexochroy2You have to watch video called What is the BEST Knife Steel? You get so many informations about steels, their elements and what they do for the alloy. My best advice would be educate yourself properly before the purchase. One may be happy with the Victorinox Fibrox or chase that Japanese holy grail and there are so many options in between. Personally I woudnt spend more then 300E if you dont shop for ZDP189 or HAP40.
Bro use the tip of your knife. You're nowhere near utilizing it's size.
You are better than me