Keith, you are a true craftsman. Even your videos are just right. I wish all the TH-camrs would learn from you; using criticism to their own advantage.
For cutting odd shaped pieces in the bandsaw, just weld a piece of square stock to the gear hub so you can grip the square and cut off the thickness of gear you want.
Yeah, I once had a job almost identical to what Keith was doing, but I had 50 gears that needed to be cut- I first tried chucking on the hub and parting the gear off, but that interrupted cutting through the gear teeth was a slow process. Then I went to the band saw and after trying some other ideas, it dawned on me to just tack weld a piece of square tube to the hub and clamp it in the saw and cut off the thickness of the gear I needed, then I simply cut through the tube to give myself a fresh end and did another- was fast and easy, as I was setting up and facing the cut gear while the next one was cutting on the band saw. Since then I have used the same idea on a number of odd shaped pieces that would not clamp in the saw.
Keith, I have been watching your videos for about a year now. First time I have commented. I have found your videos to be very worthwhile and interesting. I retired after 32 years as a police officer but prior to that I was a millwright in a sawmill. I have always found machine work interesting. I don’t do any of that now. I have a home wood shop that keeps me busy. Keep up the great work. I always keep up to date with your videos. Try to stay cool! Mike Pedersen, Lewiston Idaho
Haveing done this same thing thousands of times my first stop is always BOSTON or MARTIN gear for a stock pitch and size. The bore was always equal or smallet but sometimes had to do the sleeve thing or change the shaft size. As for keys used std size broach plugs or made a custom one. I made sets if pins (3) to hold the gear for sawing or milling and threw them in a box and soon always had what I needed. I took the stock gear to the lathe and parted off the shoulder and saved them for heavy washers often times I got brave and parted the whole gear off then finished to size by faceing. Parting tool was HSS was all we ever had, sfpm is the key to this and can be done easily
Greetings from England I've an old Easterbrook Allcard & company drill press...made in Sheffield early 1900s That needs some new gears cutting for it as it was left outside for years by the previous owner...water damage... I've considered trying to find off the shelf gears to use on it...like what was done here Nice video Mr. Rucker
I remember learning deburring tricks by watching the more experienced machinists work. 30 seconds of deburring this irregular part would have been interesting for people unfamiliar with deburring.
Keith, at 5:50 I noticed one of the parallels started to slide around under the gear....one of those "hold your breath " situations!! As usual a great and educational video. Thank you! Eric
The pin trick is great .... with the correct size of pin the chuck is holding on the diametrical pitch circle ... if you use trued soft jaws and pins the bore will be true with pitch circle ... and you avoid the run out that the 3 jaw chuck has. For an old drilling machine the run out probably doesn’t mater but for most applications it likely will
Final spring pass with the boring bar is a cool trick, takes off just the enough to finish it off without going over.. I didn’t even know the bar had flex enough to make an actual cut again
I was chewing my nails as you Broached the key way, (hoping it wouldnt Split) But as normal you Have shown how its Done Right ! cheers Dave from Australia
If someone needs a gear, pulley, sprocket etc that isn't a stock part, it's worthwhile to contact Martin Sprocket and Gear and request a quote online. Where I worked, we had them make several non stock items at very reasonable prices. With CNC machines, it doesn't seem to matter whether it's one part or a thousand.
I was confused why you didn't perform the mass stock removal with a parting tool on the lathe. Seems like that would have been faster and saved some wear on your endmill.
I've had good luck using a parting tool on gears. Chuck on the hub and indicate the bore, bore to larger ID, part the gear you want off the end, then chuck it up and chamfer. Obviously nothing wrong with your approach, just sharing what has worked for me in the past.
Hey Keith. RE: 4:30 - If you have a toolmakers vise and a horizontal bandsaw you can lock the toolmakers vise in the bandsaw vise and cut some pretty wacky shaped stuff.
Nice work. I like to use the original bore to check for run out in the lathe chuck..I get it all square and centered on the original bore so I know the teeth wont be running out later.
Always a pleasure to watching these. It's like waiting for the next episode of a sitcom... if I had a TV... ahem. So my question... Why not used a larger cutting tool in the milling machine when reducing the depth?
Good video, liked the trick with the pins in the lathe chuck. I am surprised the gear machined as easily as it did. I would have thought it would be hardened.
I think, had it been me, I would have chucked the boss up in the lathe, and used a parting tool to part it using very shallow cuts until I got through the teeth and kept the rest of the gear for possibly making a second gear as a spare.
I've had them make many gears, sprockets with hardened teeth, belt pulleys, shafts etc. With CNC machines, it doesn't seem to be a problem for them to build one off items quickly for about the same price as a stock item.
Mr Keith, l looked over the net and I didn't see any one covered helical gears!!!! Would you please cover it for us that will be my and others pleasure. Thanks as always.
Keith, why do you mill right to left? The chips are thrown straight at the operator and pressure is put on the movable jaw of the vise. Was taught to mill left to right
maybe a dumb question, but why not bore it out when you had the shaft section on that gear? You could have indicated off the inside diameter to ensure centered on the ID. I might be answering my own question, but was it because you'd need 2 lathe operations (one for the bore, then again to face it after the milling)?
It’s not the boring bar that’s flexing here. It’s too thick and has too little stick out. What happens is that the compound has flex, the cross slide has flex, and even the carriage has flex. There needs to be some room for those parts to move, and the pressure from the cut twists all of them. It only needs a half a thou in each for that amount of spring to accumulate at the cutting tip. What concerns me is that gears wear equally. This gear is so bad, and so the mating gear should also be bad. From the look of the wear, it appears that the gear centers are too far apart, and so they don’t meet properly. I’d like to have seen the other parts.
With the amount of wear on that gear, I'd really want to know what the mating gear looks like. If all the wear is on the shown part, then it's probably the softer of the two gears -- and probably a lot softer than the replacement.
When you milled over half that gear off, I about cried, thinking of future uses of that half of the gear. Lol. What speed did you use on the mill and lathe.
What was the original application of that Martin gear? Or, is it just a generic 'blank part' that's made in an unfinished condition for applications that need a gear of that diameter and pitch, with a boss if needed and plenty of excess thickness so it can be milled/faced to needed thickness and bored and broached specifically as done here?
Those are basically just generic power transmission parts. Just as you can buy sprockets without bushings, you can buy gears with no keyway. It's up to you to adapt it to your application.
Am curjous why not use an angle grinder to take most of excess material off, then mill or lathe down to final dimension, would be faster, yes? Also - is the new gear hardened steel?
Why the mill instead of the lathe? Seems like metal removal rate is simply a function of HP and your lathe likely matches or beats the mill. Would only be one setup too. Worried about the interrupted cut and smoking an insert?
I'm curious why anyone wouldn't just use a band saw or chop saw to knock off about 90% of that excess in one "pass" and then go straight to the lathe with it. But then again "machinists" that spend most all their time on "DIY" projects and only do "outside" work for "viewers" who somehow contact them without their phone numbers, addresses etc consistently baffle me with their "business practices" in their "how-to" videos on "monetized" video-sharing websites.
When Keith was facing off the gear on the lathe, he mentioned that the cutter was not cutting all the way around the face of the gear, and I think he said he had a "holiday" on it. Did I hear that correctly? I am not familiar with that usage of the word. If that is what he said I'd like to know, because I call it rather clumsily "not making contact all the way around" and it would like to learn a new term. Thanks.
As others have pointed out, it's basically a generic phrase meaning "a skipped portion" of whatever you're working on, meaning you took a holiday and didn't quite do everything that was needed. My dad, a professional painter, would always point out my 'holidays' when I was learning to spray. Some structures require very close attention to detail with all the angles needed to get everything covered without running material everywhere. Sometimes he'd up the ante ask if I took a full vacation, LOL. Pickiest man I ever knew, except me.
DSCKy granted, one would have to take it slow and easy, but with a quality parting tool, it could be done. I seem to recall Kieth receiving parting tools more than once in his viewer gifts.
It could be done... I'm just not willing to do it. :) I was also thinking that he could have used a corncob end mill and taken some pretty big bites and knocked it out pretty quickly... but he probably wasn't in that much of a hurry.
I'd have been inclined to leave the gear full size, until I'd bored it out, using the boss to chuck it in the lathe. BTW. Why do you have a machine screw cable-tied to the hand-wheel on your Arbour Press?
Probably so he doesn't loose it. It looks like the bolt that mounts the hand wheel to the Press, maybe the wheel is just sitting on the shaft (the same way a quill downfeed handle just sits on its shaft, but can be pulled off easily.
You didn't listen fully. The part of the shaft that is going into the machine will be reduced to one inch, only the part in the gear will be oversize and obviously the shaft will go in from the gear side.
Splain your comment if you would. I wasn't the least offended by Ken Wheeler's comment. Actually I am just about deaf from two tours in sunny Vietnam. My wife has the volume on the TV set at 3 while I turn it up to 32. She just cringes or finds something to do while I watch the news.
Kenneth Bartlett, I have the same problem with hearing, but I only spent one tour in Nam. I was with the 2/11 Artillery, we had one five fives, then the rest of my life doing road construction. It was nice and sunny when I got over there but then for about three or four months it wouldn’t stop raining!Thanks for your service!
Yeah no doubt cnc has it's place, even in some home/toolmaker shops etc. but that being said....leaning solely towards all manuals and that certain drive for ingenious concepts will offer it's own world for industry and hobby.... i been around i know what i know and if i get my hands on the tools i want ima bring something eventually....yeah, i will do without if never but, it isn't that simple down here where there's virtually no where to turn for this stuff and that's not all of it neither as soon as u get an idea around here all of a sudden it was someone else's idea someone and their neighbors and their friends and cousins all of a sudden wanted or done and deserve all what u have or what u would like to have too so, why should you get it if i can't well maybe because i was there and u definitely are not a craftsman.... some but, not that many especially if u would rather be playing golf or watching football people like us, we like what u see this fellow doing right here.... but we should be appreciated like u should appreciate a flooring guy or an ac guy, or a hopper. If u don't appreciate a hopper then u shouldn't be part of society. Hvac a few years (for a living) way more experience than i was ever given credit for, this last job really crossed the line and defamed my reputation and im done with the industry and complaining.... but, i did machinist work as an inspector qc&qa leader and managing without the title... i did a lot more than i will ever get credit for and saying it that way (honestly) makes it so easy on me....hahaha.... now stop, i want u to imagine that im serious and telling u the word. What if i really was screwed like that and now im about to lose everything and everyone that i care about says im a loser and don't know anything and don't deserve shit.... Why cuz some schmuck that i slapped 22 years ago got in his mangina feelings after Facebook started and he saw how i was doing and thought i had it made never considered how long it's been and what i might have been dealing with, finally finds out and hahaha he went MIA so quick he now lives in another time zone right next door....
Smaller size for tapping, 1/4" is outside diameter of the set screw, so tapping size needs to be smaller. I am not near my references at the moment but I think it is 13/64" for 1/4 UNC. John.
Mr.rucker got awfully close to running His tool post into his cuck while He was facing off that gear well When he was chamfering... I know that he knows what he is doing And know without a doubt that he was not going too crash it.... but they where dam nearly kissing one another ..... Well awsome job Mr.rucker like always.... You are da man....
If you machinists would learn to use a band saw or chop saw for bulk material removal like cutting the excess off that gear then using a "cleanup" pass or two on the mill/lathe you'd save tons of time, tool life and tool wear.
Who makes a gear with a 1.050" bore? I think you'd better get your caliper checked. I can EYEBALL those gears and see if ANYTHING the new gear is SMALLER in ID. You must be charging by the HOUR and not by the job.
@11:17 you notice that your face cut is not covering the whole face. Given that you milled it sitting on parallels the likely cause of this is that the gear is not held in axial allignment in the chuck. At this stage you could have checked the workpeice for depth in 3 places but you did not. If you had bothered to do this you would have known if the gear was chucked accurately or not. Instead you avoided questioning the situation and pressed on. As an example of instruction to your viewers this was at best a missed opportunity and at worst plain poor worshop practice and the teeth are running out of true. No doubt your plaudits will find a way to make this perfectly ok.
I like the pin trick, never saw that before 👍🏼 ~ Richard
That was a neat trick!
It would be nice to see a picture of this project on the drill press when it’s all done. Another good video Keith, thanks!
Keith, you are a true craftsman. Even your videos are just right.
I wish all the TH-camrs would learn from you; using criticism to their own advantage.
For cutting odd shaped pieces in the bandsaw, just weld a piece of square stock to the gear hub so you can grip the square and cut off the thickness of gear you want.
Neat yet simple solution :)
Yeah, I once had a job almost identical to what Keith was doing, but I had 50 gears that needed to be cut- I first tried chucking on the hub and parting the gear off, but that interrupted cutting through the gear teeth was a slow process. Then I went to the band saw and after trying some other ideas, it dawned on me to just tack weld a piece of square tube to the hub and clamp it in the saw and cut off the thickness of the gear I needed, then I simply cut through the tube to give myself a fresh end and did another- was fast and easy, as I was setting up and facing the cut gear while the next one was cutting on the band saw. Since then I have used the same idea on a number of odd shaped pieces that would not clamp in the saw.
A toolmakers vise and a fence on a vertical bandsaw also works well.
Keith, I have been watching your videos for about a year now. First time I have commented. I have found your videos to be very worthwhile and interesting. I retired after 32 years as a police officer but prior to that I was a millwright in a sawmill. I have always found machine work interesting. I don’t do any of that now. I have a home wood shop that keeps me busy. Keep up the great work. I always keep up to date with your videos. Try to stay cool! Mike
Pedersen, Lewiston Idaho
Haveing done this same thing thousands of times my first stop is always BOSTON or MARTIN gear for a stock pitch and size. The bore was always equal or smallet but sometimes had to do the sleeve thing or change the shaft size. As for keys used std size broach plugs or made a custom one. I made sets if pins (3) to hold the gear for sawing or milling and threw them in a box and soon always had what I needed. I took the stock gear to the lathe and parted off the shoulder and saved them for heavy washers often times I got brave and parted the whole gear off then finished to size by faceing. Parting tool was HSS was all we ever had, sfpm is the key to this and can be done easily
Greetings from England
I've an old Easterbrook Allcard & company drill press...made in Sheffield early 1900s
That needs some new gears cutting for it as it was left outside for years by the previous owner...water damage...
I've considered trying to find off the shelf gears to use on it...like what was done here
Nice video Mr. Rucker
I loved seeing the parrallel dance! Abrasive cut off wheels make pretty quick stock removal tools too.
Last time I did this I just used a parting tool and then faced the opposite side to thickness using soft jaws. I had about 10 gears to do though.
Thank you Keith! Very interesting to learn about remanufacturing a stock gear.
Port a band saw is really cool tool for odd stuff such as that. Neat video sir.
Lots of interesting operations and techniques that you shared with us, thanks for that.
I'm new at all this. I do have to say that was really cool the way you did all that.
Thanks for sharing.
Very well carried out. Thank you.
I remember learning deburring tricks by watching the more experienced machinists work. 30 seconds of deburring this irregular part would have been interesting for people unfamiliar with deburring.
I've got a buffalo forge drill press I'm going to restore with gears that look like that one, great job.
Keith, at 5:50 I noticed one of the parallels started to slide around under the gear....one of those "hold your breath " situations!!
As usual a great and educational video. Thank you!
Eric
Thank you Kieth
Always like your videos Keith thanks for sharing. :o)
The pin trick is great .... with the correct size of pin the chuck is holding on the diametrical pitch circle ... if you use trued soft jaws and pins the bore will be true with pitch circle ... and you avoid the run out that the 3 jaw chuck has. For an old drilling machine the run out probably doesn’t mater but for most applications it likely will
Great machining thank you Keith.
Final spring pass with the boring bar is a cool trick, takes off just the enough to finish it off without going over.. I didn’t even know the bar had flex enough to make an actual cut again
I was chewing my nails as you Broached the key way, (hoping it wouldnt Split) But as normal you Have shown how its Done Right ! cheers Dave from Australia
Cool stuff. Thanks for sharing.
If someone needs a gear, pulley, sprocket etc that isn't a stock part, it's worthwhile to contact Martin Sprocket and Gear and request a quote online. Where I worked, we had them make several non stock items at very reasonable prices. With CNC machines, it doesn't seem to matter whether it's one part or a thousand.
two blocks of pine and bandsaw cut before you can index it. love your show ship repair background.
As always a pleasure to watch. Thanks
excellent video Kieth,really enjoyed this one........
I was starting to get worried about your broach, then you caught it before tragedy. Job is coming along nicely. John, Australia.
I was confused why you didn't perform the mass stock removal with a parting tool on the lathe. Seems like that would have been faster and saved some wear on your endmill.
I've had good luck using a parting tool on gears. Chuck on the hub and indicate the bore, bore to larger ID, part the gear you want off the end, then chuck it up and chamfer. Obviously nothing wrong with your approach, just sharing what has worked for me in the past.
Hey Keith. RE: 4:30 - If you have a toolmakers vise and a horizontal bandsaw you can lock the toolmakers vise in the bandsaw vise and cut some pretty wacky shaped stuff.
Nice work. I like to use the original bore to check for run out in the lathe chuck..I get it all square and centered on the original bore so I know the teeth wont be running out later.
Nicely done. Thanks for the video.
Always a pleasure to watching these. It's like waiting for the next episode of a sitcom... if I had a TV... ahem.
So my question... Why not used a larger cutting tool in the milling machine when reducing the depth?
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Great stuff, always got time to enjoy this channel 👍
Holy crap! Talk about worn teeth! Never seen wear like that. I always like the little curls that end up in broach teeth.
Great video as always! Thank you!
Good video, liked the trick with the pins in the lathe chuck. I am surprised the gear machined as easily as it did. I would have thought it would be hardened.
awesome work , Learned along the way ! ENJOYED ..
I think, had it been me, I would have chucked the boss up in the lathe, and used a parting tool to part it using very shallow cuts until I got through the teeth and kept the rest of the gear for possibly making a second gear as a spare.
Could have welded the new gear to a piece of scrap that you could clamp in the band saw vice. Cool Video!
I just did something similar on my van norman mill. Found an off the shelf gear($15 on fleabay) and turned down to fit.
Just for future reference Martin Gear and Sprocket makes very affordable custom made gears
I've had them make many gears, sprockets with hardened teeth, belt pulleys, shafts etc. With CNC machines, it doesn't seem to be a problem for them to build one off items quickly for about the same price as a stock item.
Nice video, I learned how to properly hold a gear.
Thanks for another great project, but wonder why you didn't use bored soft jaws to remove the excess material instead of milling?
Sweet!
Great job Keith! Do you have any plans of getting a smaller shaper for keyways and such?
I would have used a 1" bolt to hold that part to cut it on the bandsaw. 1" bolt bolted to a chunk of steel.
Mr Keith, l looked over the net and I didn't see any one covered helical gears!!!! Would you please cover it for us that will be my and others pleasure. Thanks as always.
Keith, why do you mill right to left? The chips are thrown straight at the operator and pressure is put on the movable jaw of the vise. Was taught to mill left to right
"I thought I did, but I don't" the story of my life.
Great 👍👍👍👍
Have to create a tool holder that can grip power hack saw blades at an angle for cut off duties on the lathe
Presumably then a cut off tool in the lathe wouldn't respond well to an interrupted cut through all those gear teeth?
Why not use a woodruff key, then no need to put in a grub screw?
probably been mentioned but...no oil second time on broaching? I would advise the second mating gear to this one be replaced if the old was that bad.
maybe a dumb question, but why not bore it out when you had the shaft section on that gear? You could have indicated off the inside diameter to ensure centered on the ID. I might be answering my own question, but was it because you'd need 2 lathe operations (one for the bore, then again to face it after the milling)?
It’s not the boring bar that’s flexing here. It’s too thick and has too little stick out. What happens is that the compound has flex, the cross slide has flex, and even the carriage has flex. There needs to be some room for those parts to move, and the pressure from the cut twists all of them. It only needs a half a thou in each for that amount of spring to accumulate at the cutting tip.
What concerns me is that gears wear equally. This gear is so bad, and so the mating gear should also be bad. From the look of the wear, it appears that the gear centers are too far apart, and so they don’t meet properly. I’d like to have seen the other parts.
With the amount of wear on that gear, I'd really want to know what the mating gear looks like. If all the wear is on the shown part, then it's probably the softer of the two gears -- and probably a lot softer than the replacement.
The mating gear has many more teeth and shows little wear. I believe it is also a much harder material.
well that's good to know then; hope it works out
When you milled over half that gear off, I about cried, thinking of future uses of that half of the gear. Lol. What speed did you use on the mill and lathe.
What was the original application of that Martin gear? Or, is it just a generic 'blank part' that's made in an unfinished condition for applications that need a gear of that diameter and pitch, with a boss if needed and plenty of excess thickness so it can be milled/faced to needed thickness and bored and broached specifically as done here?
Those are basically just generic power transmission parts. Just as you can buy sprockets without bushings, you can buy gears with no keyway. It's up to you to adapt it to your application.
Am curjous why not use an angle grinder to take most of excess material off, then mill or lathe down to final dimension, would be faster, yes?
Also - is the new gear hardened steel?
what speed are you running on the face mill and what size mill cut is that?
how come you didn't just part it iff in the lathe
I thought you had a couple of band saws. one was a parts saw to make one good one out of the other or are they completed yet
I'm surprised that a three jaw chuck would allow you to get a concentric bore. Is that a special chuck, or does it just have to be close?
Why the mill instead of the lathe? Seems like metal removal rate is simply a function of HP and your lathe likely matches or beats the mill. Would only be one setup too. Worried about the interrupted cut and smoking an insert?
Just out of curiosity; why is there a bolt zip tied onto the broaching press wheel?
did you know the hardness of the gear or what happens if its been hardened, can it still be machined conventionally if it is very hard
seems like you're running the lathe pretty quick.......speed please?
Could you have put it in the lathe and parted it off a lot faster and easier?
Nice job. Should work out great.
lucked out that the gear wasn't hard. :P
what happened to the two band-saws you were restoring?
Holy fuck, we have a lot of armchair machinist tuned in today...
Keith, I'm confused why you would need to face the gear off after you milled the gear down on the milling machine? Is the mill not that accurate?
It's easier to hit the thickness that way. Plus he had to set it up on the lathe to bore and chamfer it anyway.
how come Keith didn't just put it the lathe and use the parting tool ??
Stephen, most likely because an interrupted cut through the teeth would risk the parting tool breaking.
I'm curious why anyone wouldn't just use a band saw or chop saw to knock off about 90% of that excess in one "pass" and then go straight to the lathe with it. But then again "machinists" that spend most all their time on "DIY" projects and only do "outside" work for "viewers" who somehow contact them without their phone numbers, addresses etc consistently baffle me with their "business practices" in their "how-to" videos on "monetized" video-sharing websites.
*TWO CONSECUTIVE SPRING PASSES?!?!*
Taking notes...
When Keith was facing off the gear on the lathe, he mentioned that the cutter was not cutting all the way around the face of the gear, and I think he said he had a "holiday" on it. Did I hear that correctly? I am not familiar with that usage of the word. If that is what he said I'd like to know, because I call it rather clumsily "not making contact all the way around" and it would like to learn a new term. Thanks.
Ian Butler Yes. When you miss something or work not being done, it’s called taking a “Holiday “.
Keith Fenner made that phrase popular on the TH-cam. :)
A great word that fits perfectly. Thanks guys.
As others have pointed out, it's basically a generic phrase meaning "a skipped portion" of whatever you're working on, meaning you took a holiday and didn't quite do everything that was needed. My dad, a professional painter, would always point out my 'holidays' when I was learning to spray. Some structures require very close attention to detail with all the angles needed to get everything covered without running material everywhere. Sometimes he'd up the ante ask if I took a full vacation, LOL. Pickiest man I ever knew, except me.
Odd how I don't mind perfectionists when they are doing something for me...! Thanks.
Curiosity question, why not use a parting tool? Seam's the balance of the part could have been future project stock.
I might have parted off the round boss first, but I wouldn't want to part interrupted through all those teeth.
DSCKy granted, one would have to take it slow and easy, but with a quality parting tool, it could be done. I seem to recall Kieth receiving parting tools more than once in his viewer gifts.
It could be done... I'm just not willing to do it. :) I was also thinking that he could have used a corncob end mill and taken some pretty big bites and knocked it out pretty quickly... but he probably wasn't in that much of a hurry.
I'd have been inclined to leave the gear full size, until I'd bored it out, using the boss to chuck it in the lathe.
BTW. Why do you have a machine screw cable-tied to the hand-wheel on your Arbour Press?
I was wondering about the ty wrap as well. It did get a comment.
Probably so he doesn't loose it. It looks like the bolt that mounts the hand wheel to the Press, maybe the wheel is just sitting on the shaft (the same way a quill downfeed handle just sits on its shaft, but can be pulled off easily.
How will the larger shaft fit in the drill press. It would help to see the drill press. Thanks..Ken
You didn't listen fully. The part of the shaft that is going into the machine will be reduced to one inch, only the part in the gear will be oversize and obviously the shaft will go in from the gear side.
SLAP, well I guess these 80 year old ears missed that, thanks for bringing that to my attention. Now that sounds a lot better :-) ...Ken
ken Wheeler at least you said it nice, asswipe...
Splain your comment if you would. I wasn't the least offended by Ken Wheeler's comment. Actually I am just about deaf from two tours in sunny Vietnam. My wife has the volume on the TV set at 3 while I turn it up to 32. She just cringes or finds something to do while I watch the news.
Kenneth Bartlett, I have the same problem with hearing, but I only spent one tour in Nam. I was with the 2/11 Artillery, we had one five fives, then the rest of my life doing road construction. It was nice and sunny when I got over there but then for about three or four months it wouldn’t stop raining!Thanks for your service!
Yeah no doubt cnc has it's place, even in some home/toolmaker shops etc. but that being said....leaning solely towards all manuals and that certain drive for ingenious concepts will offer it's own world for industry and hobby.... i been around i know what i know and if i get my hands on the tools i want ima bring something eventually....yeah, i will do without if never but, it isn't that simple down here where there's virtually no where to turn for this stuff and that's not all of it neither as soon as u get an idea around here all of a sudden it was someone else's idea someone and their neighbors and their friends and cousins all of a sudden wanted or done and deserve all what u have or what u would like to have too so, why should you get it if i can't well maybe because i was there and u definitely are not a craftsman.... some but, not that many especially if u would rather be playing golf or watching football people like us, we like what u see this fellow doing right here.... but we should be appreciated like u should appreciate a flooring guy or an ac guy, or a hopper. If u don't appreciate a hopper then u shouldn't be part of society.
Hvac a few years (for a living) way more experience than i was ever given credit for, this last job really crossed the line and defamed my reputation and im done with the industry and complaining.... but, i did machinist work as an inspector qc&qa leader and managing without the title... i did a lot more than i will ever get credit for and saying it that way (honestly) makes it so easy on me....hahaha.... now stop, i want u to imagine that im serious and telling u the word. What if i really was screwed like that and now im about to lose everything and everyone that i care about says im a loser and don't know anything and don't deserve shit.... Why cuz some schmuck that i slapped 22 years ago got in his mangina feelings after Facebook started and he saw how i was doing and thought i had it made never considered how long it's been and what i might have been dealing with, finally finds out and hahaha he went MIA so quick he now lives in another time zone right next door....
If you're tapping a 1/4-20 hole, do you use a 1/4" drill?
Smaller size for tapping, 1/4" is outside diameter of the set screw, so tapping size needs to be smaller. I am not near my references at the moment but I think it is 13/64" for 1/4 UNC. John.
bandsaw: just tack it to the end of some barstock and grab that in the vice
Mr.rucker got awfully close to running
His tool post into his cuck while
He was facing off that gear well
When he was chamfering...
I know that he knows what he is doing
And know without a doubt that he was not going too crash it.... but they where
dam nearly kissing one another .....
Well awsome job Mr.rucker like always....
You are da man....
If you machinists would learn to use a band saw or chop saw for bulk material removal like cutting the excess off that gear then using a "cleanup" pass or two on the mill/lathe you'd save tons of time, tool life and tool wear.
Those ain't a gear - that's a ratchet! Are you sure that isn't part of the table jacking mechanism? :P
Question: What material is that gear made of?
Chips definitely look like steel.
30
Who makes a gear with a 1.050" bore? I think you'd better get your caliper checked. I can EYEBALL those gears and see if ANYTHING the new gear is SMALLER in ID. You must be charging by the HOUR and not by the job.
Your craft is cool brother, but you Americans have to get rid of this shitty imperial system :D
@11:17 you notice that your face cut is not covering the whole face. Given that you milled it sitting on parallels the likely cause of this is that the gear is not held in axial allignment in the chuck. At this stage you could have checked the workpeice for depth in 3 places but you did not. If you had bothered to do this you would have known if the gear was chucked accurately or not. Instead you avoided questioning the situation and pressed on.
As an example of instruction to your viewers this was at best a missed opportunity and at worst plain poor worshop practice and the teeth are running out of true.
No doubt your plaudits will find a way to make this perfectly ok.